I was able to score the white laminate fully through and cut along it with a jigsaw using a 13 tpi hollow ground blade. The trick is to make sure that you cut with the nice side of the board facing down. Sine the jigsaw pulls on the cut stoke it cuts clean and will tend to blow out the top side, where you scored. Jigsaw is basically a high speed handsaw, so your method is sound.
Thanks for your comments. When I shorten cabinets in the length I am a bit more relaxed about the cut as it won't be visible in most cases. When I, on the other hand, cut to make a cabinet more narrow, I always use my table saw. As you mention, by scoring the laminate about 1/8" before flipping it over and cutting all the way through, the cut will be pretty good.
Thank you for your comment. I won't. I never cut doors and drawer fronts. When I modify the width or height of a cabinet box, I always cut it to a size where Ikea has a front I can use as a door.
Brilliant idea. I need a 9 inch wide base cabinet, which IKEA does not make :( . Would these same principles apply to making a cabinet narrower? Door would also have to cut narrower…
I think so too :-) I made this video especially for you th-cam.com/video/q-UcS36xDmA/w-d-xo.html But cutting the door?? Just the thought of it keeps me up at night :-) I never cut doors, as in NEVER. I always pick a cabinet size where I can use a drawer front as a door. For base cabinets that will be 5 or 10" in width.
@@kitchensbyrannes thanks for your reply. I was asking about a base cabinet with the metal strap across the top. Luckily I did find another one of your videos that talks about the base cabinet here : th-cam.com/video/F11KZTselUo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Q6HhA6AbRW-moao5 Regarding trimming a door, if you are hesitant to do that, then I certainly will resist the temptation. I am handy but not close to your level of knowledge and experience.
Thanks. Some folks might cut the painted doors, but certainly not those with a foil. I try to live a simple life, so I don't cut doors at all. Period 🤣
Hello! Thanks to your video, I had the confidence to buy a taller refrigerator which requires shortening a cabinet. I've nearly finished and realized I do not have the correct drill for the dowels. Can you tell me the correct size?
Hi Mack. Thank you for your question. I had to go and measure I always just grab a drill in the box and try it in the hole I am replicating. Anyhoo....it is 5/16" or 8 mm. Good luck with your project.
Nice video.. I don’t suppose you have videos for reducing the depth and the width of ikea cabinets do you? I need to do that with a set of kitchen drawers.
Thank you for your comment and question. I haven't made a video showing how to cut a cabinet in the width and height yet, but I will at some point. You might find a few helpful tips at the end of this video. th-cam.com/video/F11KZTselUo/w-d-xo.html Thanks.
Do you have any suggestions on how to extend a METOD Cabinet that’s 220 cm to 240 cm? The shortest top cabinet I can find is of length 40 cm, but I would like to have a unit on top just to make all my other cabinets aligned with each other. The 220 unit is for integrated fridges. Sadly, the 200 cm unit does not support most nok-IKEA fridges.
Hej Michael, Tak for dit spørgsmål. Jeg svarer dig lige på engelsk såfremt der er andre som læser med. If you have a fridge inside the cabinet, I would extend it at the top so as not to weaken the bottom. I don't know if a 20 cm high front is available (in Denmark, right?), but if it is, I would take the 40 cm high cabinet, shorten it to 20 cm and stack it on top of the fridge cabinet. I wouldn't bother to let it hang on a rail as it should be secured to the fridge cabinet. Good luck with your project.
I’m interested in figuring out how to adjust a cabinet depth. I have a chimney in the middle of my cabinet run. Even if I use a shallow 15” cabinet, it’s still too deep. I’m not sure if I’d be better off just having two custom cabinets made for the front and left side, if if it would be easier to reduce the depth of of two 21” cabinets.
Hi Trina. You're not the first one to ask so I better make that video soon. Reducing cabinet in the depth isn't difficult, if you pick the easy option which is not to make a groove for the back panel of the cabinet. In that case you just cut it to a depth that suits your needs, subtract 1/4" or so to have room for the back which is 1/8" thick. Then you square the cabinet and nail on the back. This is only working if it's base cabinet though, as you can omit the brackets and screw it into the two adjacent cabinets. If it's a wall cabinet, different story. That where a video showing you how-to is needed. To complicated to explain in a short comment.
Hi Rannes, thank you so much for your videos, a real eye opener for someone about to install their first IKEA kitchen.... How do you cut the panels without chipping the finish on the laminate or the glossy finish? do you use an 60 or 80 teeth blade on your table or circular saw or is there a better way? Thanks again
Yes....and no. You can cut them, but it will look awful, so you don't want to. Some doors have foil and cannot be cut. Some doors are painted, and you need a professional approach to make them look good. I do not cut doors. Never.
I wish to use a 21x30 (WxH) upper cabinet, and use its lower part to support a compact micro-wave... that I wish to hide behind a door. I was thinking of installing an horizontal (so it protrudes less when open) door 15'' high, with a regular swing door 15'' high above (both from drawer fronts). Will that work ? I am assuming the upper door could not open if the lower horizontal one is open and make an obstruction; is that so?
Sounds like a plan. Keep in mind though, that having a electrical outlet behind a door inside a cabinet might not be to code. The horizontal hinges can be adjusted to limit the opening angle. See page 23 in this document: www.ikea.com/ca/en/assembly_instructions/utrusta-hinge-w-damper-for-horizontal-door-white__AA-2184306-8-100.pdf You will need to get a Torx20 bit for the adjustment.
@@kitchensbyrannesI finally found a way to do this. It comes out not bad. I had to cut both sides and base board 2 inches from center since I still need the legs and the side screws. After that, it's a matter of using Kreg pocket hole for 3/4 mark, drill hole, glue the boards and screw them after that together. That's how I managed to get the depth shorten. A lot of work though. 😊
Great video! From reading the comments, I know how you feel about cutting the doors (and I have the same anxieties). However, I need wall cabinets that are 12" high...any suggestions?
Hi Steph. Thank you for your comment. Cutting doors, huh? Well...you know already that I wouldn't do it unless the door is solid wood with a flat design, i.e. no frames or whatever it is called. Do you only need one door 12" in height, and how wide is it? If you can somehow combine/adjust the width of those wall cabinets to 30 or 40", you can use a 12" wide door and horizontal hinges.
@@kitchensbyrannes I'm going with a flat door design, but am also not sure if the outer layer is paint or veneer with IKEA (in regards to matching the color/finish on the cut edges). I recently purchased an old house with low ceilings (7 feet) and would only have 12" above certain areas/appliances. So for example, the minimum 15" tall cabinets for above the fridge are too tall, so I was thinking of turning a 12" wall cabinet on it's side and modifying it. So sticking with the fridge example, purchasing a 12" wide, 15" deep, and 40" long wall cabinet, turning it on it's side and cutting it down closer to 36" to match the width of the fridge. However, that would also result in needing to cut the door down. There are 36" long doors, but then they revert back to the pesky 15" width. I think I'd rather cut the short side of a 12" wide door than the long side of a 15" wide door, if at all. Another option is of course open shelves in these areas, but I'm not sure open shelves will be conducive to my household 😅
@@stephminor4585 Maybe cutting the cabinet to 10 x 36" and use a drawer front and horizontal hinges. Ikea actually has a fridge cabinet which is 36" wide and 10" but I don't know if it has been discontinued.
In my kitchen my refrigerator is standard size, meaning 35" deep, sides to hinges are 30" deep to the wall, and 36" wide and 71" tall; when I add the ikea refrigerator cabinets to the top they are only 24" deep; I can bring them out 30" on the plan but I worry about how I will install them since the wall will be 6" behind. If I had a 30" deep cabinet I could install on the rails as normal. Any ideas? People with standard refrigerators (as opposed to counter depth like all the Ikea ones) must have some sort of solution. I would appreciate your ideas on this. Thank you again for a very useful channel for us IKEA newbies.
Hi Lyndon, Sorry for taking a whole week to reply. When I need to bump out a cabinet the way you describe it here, I use a few 2x4's which I screw onto the wall in layers until I get the right distance. I will then mount the rail onto the 2x4. Depending on the layout, I sometimes add a stack of 2x4's at the bottom of the cabinet, but I can often dismiss this as the fridge cabinet will be hanging on a pantry cabinet to one side and a big panel on the other.
Hi Kavita, Thank you for your question. Sure you can cut it shorter but you'll end up with an open end that needs some sort of "detailing". Some of the Ikea doors have a foil on them and others are painted. Personally I have never cut a door because I think it's a bad idea. I cannot see how the open cut can be fixed so the door will last very long. I never cut cabinet to a size I cannot cover with a drawer front converted to a door i.e. either 5 or 10 inches wide and whatever height I can make from the total length of the drawer fronts.
Yes most likely. You can cut a door, but it will look awful, so I will never do that. You can only get doors 15, 20, 30, 40 and 50 inches in height, so if you need a 25" high door, toss a 5" drawer beside the 20" door, like playing Tetris.
Thank you for your question, Michelle. Just to clarify. Do you want to shorten a shallow cabinet (15" deep) or do you want to reduce the depth of a cabinet? If you want to shorten a shallow cabinet, the procedure is the same. If you, on the other hand, want to reduce the depth of a cabinet, it is a bit different task as you will need to make a new groove for the back panel or accept that it is just nailed directly to the back edge.
@@kitchensbyrannes I have the same question thank you. I believe they mean reduce the depth of the cabinet. I am having a hard time finding the length of the drawer glides I just know they are shorter by several inches than the actual cabinet depth. I have a space id like to use Ikea for but the max depth is 15" which is fine with their uppers but not lowers where id need drawers. any help and insight would be appreciated thank you for this video is was SO helpful
I needed 22" deep base cabinets and Ikea doesn't make that. I took the 24" standard base and ran them through my table saw to cut off two inches. I then ran the side and base panels through the table saw so the blade only cut part way through to create an 1/8" dado for the back to slide in. I had planned on using the drawers from the 15" deep base cabinets but those drawers are only 12" deep which left a bunch of wasted space. I installed the 24" base slides and found the dampers were only two long by about a quarter inch. I just marked the back and drilled holes where the dampers hit the back so they could poke through behind the cabinet. You can't see the holes with the drawers installed. Bam! Full length drawers in a 22" base. I wish I had done a video on it.
Have you ever shortened an IKEA door? The other day I asked about how to “extend” an IKEA cabinet by making a small “box” on top of the main cabinet, but I have now come to realize that I would probably actually rather shorten a (e.g.) a pair of 80cm and 140cm Veddinge doors to 70cm and 130cm, respectively. My reasoning is a little strange, but it has to do with how the cabinet is supposed to cover a fridge and a freezer with non-IKEA dimensions
@@kitchensbyrannes Fair enough. Have you tried making custom doors using MDF? I would imagine one could get a result similar to that of Veddinge by sanding properly and find just the right paint
You're welcome. Good luck. It's not difficult if you have time to spend. Since I'm installing a full kitchen every week, I don't have much time for tinkering.
Hi Joe, Good question. Whether I cut from the top or the bottom depends on the location of the cabinet. If it is a high cabinet like the one in the video, it does not make a big difference which ends you cut, as long as you cut the same end of the two side panels. I like symmetry. However, if the cabinet is sitting under a bulkhead the cut-off end isn't visible if I cut the top, so I prefer that option. If I am shortening a wall cabinet, I do not want to have the cut at the bottom, as that will be visible, at least for short people.
You do a wonderful job and service. I really like all your videos but I have a question about shortening the door or cabinets fronts and how you would best patch the seam. I want to use Bobdyn style and so for the fronts I will have to take out of the middle and bring the ends together for the fronts. I am wondering if you have ever had to do this? and how best to patch and repair the seam on complex fronts like Bobdyn.
@Lyndon Foster Thank you for your feedback. I'm happy that you find my videos useful. Shortening a door. I have never done that and I'm certain that I never will. Unless you know how to professionally finish the end that has been cut, I don't think it's a good solution from a technical point of view. The Bodbyn door is made from MDF so moisture will eventually find its way in unless you really are successful in sealing it. Cutting it into two parts by removing a part of the middle will also weaken the door. As you can tell, I'm not a fan but that doesn't mean it isn't possible. I just don't have the knowledge and skills to make it perfect, and if the end result isn't perfect, I won't do it. When I shorten cabinets in width or height, I always aim for a size to which Ikea has a door or drawer that fits. If that isn't possible, I would have a front made to fit, from one of the many after-market companies who make fronts for Ikea cabinets. In Canada, there are a few such as Swedish Door or Kitch.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for this video. I am about to do the same and your method is the same as i was planning. However, i do need to cut the door down. But I am wondering what you means by this commment? "When I shorten cabinets in width or height, I always aim for a size to which Ikea has a door or drawer that fits. " If you get a door that fits, then why did you cut it down to start? if you cut a cabinet, you would have to cut the door? so how have you managed cutting doors to match your cut carcass ? I am wanting to cut top and bottom not width. I would also buy a roll of edging strip from hardware and iron this on the cut edge to seal it from moisture. White or black, no one will view the top or bottom edge of the cut door.
@@ppeterts Thank you for your comment. I will try to explain it a bit better. First things first. I do never cut the door. Never. Cutting an Ikea door is in my opinion, not something anyone should do. Most of the Ikea doors are made from MDF and cutting a painted door or a door with foil is inconsistent with the quality I strive to deliver every single time I install a kitchen. This means that I cannot cut a cabinet to a height that cannot be divided by five (5) as all drawer fronts and doors are made in 5" increments in regards to height. The drawer fronts from Ikea come in the heights of 5", 10" and 15". The doors come in 15", 20", 30", 40", 50" and 60". This means I can cut any cabinet to a height of the combined height of the drawers and doors I intend to use when I add one or several of these heights together. in the video I reduced the height of the pantry cabinet from 80" to 75" and, as I remember it, I used two 15" drawers, a 15" high door and a 30" high door. Total equals 75". I hope that helped.
Rannes, thank you for being so generous with your time. I have learned so much from your shared experience & tribal knowledge.
My pleasure!
Man this may seem obvious but you just saved my kitchen 💪💪💪
Thanks, Nabil. I am glad that you found it helpful.
I was able to score the white laminate fully through and cut along it with a jigsaw using a 13 tpi hollow ground blade. The trick is to make sure that you cut with the nice side of the board facing down. Sine the jigsaw pulls on the cut stoke it cuts clean and will tend to blow out the top side, where you scored. Jigsaw is basically a high speed handsaw, so your method is sound.
Thanks for your comments. When I shorten cabinets in the length I am a bit more relaxed about the cut as it won't be visible in most cases. When I, on the other hand, cut to make a cabinet more narrow, I always use my table saw. As you mention, by scoring the laminate about 1/8" before flipping it over and cutting all the way through, the cut will be pretty good.
They make laminate blades for jigsaw that has half the teeth facing up and half down so you get a clean edge on both sides. It worked great for me.
Is there a way to reduce the depth of an Ikea cabinet ?
Yes, certainly. The video explaining how is in progress, but it'll be another week or so before it's finished.
Track saw would make a great investment for scenarios like this
Yup, got one.
A lot of tool inventory expansion have happened since I made this particular video. My handsaw is only being used for toekicks nowadays.
@@kitchensbyrannes that's awesome 🙌
Wonderful video. So clear and enjoyable. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
How would you shorten the doors to go onto the cabinets? I’ve look through your videos but can’t see a video on this.
Thank you for your comment.
I won't.
I never cut doors and drawer fronts.
When I modify the width or height of a cabinet box, I always cut it to a size where Ikea has a front I can use as a door.
How about the doors, how do you re-finish the cut side? thanks
@@st0nedeft I don't cut the doors....ever.
I only modify cabinets to match whatever door/drawer front is available.
Brilliant idea. I need a 9 inch wide base cabinet, which IKEA does not make :( . Would these same principles apply to making a cabinet narrower? Door would also have to cut narrower…
I think so too :-)
I made this video especially for you th-cam.com/video/q-UcS36xDmA/w-d-xo.html
But cutting the door?? Just the thought of it keeps me up at night :-)
I never cut doors, as in NEVER. I always pick a cabinet size where I can use a drawer front as a door. For base cabinets that will be 5 or 10" in width.
@@kitchensbyrannes thanks for your reply. I was asking about a base cabinet with the metal strap across the top. Luckily I did find another one of your videos that talks about the base cabinet here : th-cam.com/video/F11KZTselUo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Q6HhA6AbRW-moao5
Regarding trimming a door, if you are hesitant to do that, then I certainly will resist the temptation. I am handy but not close to your level of knowledge and experience.
Thanks. Some folks might cut the painted doors, but certainly not those with a foil. I try to live a simple life, so I don't cut doors at all. Period 🤣
Hello! Thanks to your video, I had the confidence to buy a taller refrigerator which requires shortening a cabinet. I've nearly finished and realized I do not have the correct drill for the dowels. Can you tell me the correct size?
Hi Mack. Thank you for your question. I had to go and measure I always just grab a drill in the box and try it in the hole I am replicating. Anyhoo....it is 5/16" or 8 mm. Good luck with your project.
Nice video.. I don’t suppose you have videos for reducing the depth and the width of ikea cabinets do you? I need to do that with a set of kitchen drawers.
Thank you for your comment and question.
I haven't made a video showing how to cut a cabinet in the width and height yet, but I will at some point.
You might find a few helpful tips at the end of this video.
th-cam.com/video/F11KZTselUo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks.
Do you have any suggestions on how to extend a METOD Cabinet that’s 220 cm to 240 cm? The shortest top cabinet I can find is of length 40 cm, but I would like to have a unit on top just to make all my other cabinets aligned with each other.
The 220 unit is for integrated fridges. Sadly, the 200 cm unit does not support most nok-IKEA fridges.
Hej Michael,
Tak for dit spørgsmål.
Jeg svarer dig lige på engelsk såfremt der er andre som læser med.
If you have a fridge inside the cabinet, I would extend it at the top so as not to weaken the bottom.
I don't know if a 20 cm high front is available (in Denmark, right?), but if it is, I would take the 40 cm high cabinet, shorten it to 20 cm and stack it on top of the fridge cabinet. I wouldn't bother to let it hang on a rail as it should be secured to the fridge cabinet.
Good luck with your project.
Thanks. This video saved me, I was about to cut the panel in the middle and glue them back together.
😱
I’m interested in figuring out how to adjust a cabinet depth. I have a chimney in the middle of my cabinet run. Even if I use a shallow 15” cabinet, it’s still too deep. I’m not sure if I’d be better off just having two custom cabinets made for the front and left side, if if it would be easier to reduce the depth of of two 21” cabinets.
Hi Trina. You're not the first one to ask so I better make that video soon.
Reducing cabinet in the depth isn't difficult, if you pick the easy option which is not to make a groove for the back panel of the cabinet. In that case you just cut it to a depth that suits your needs, subtract 1/4" or so to have room for the back which is 1/8" thick. Then you square the cabinet and nail on the back.
This is only working if it's base cabinet though, as you can omit the brackets and screw it into the two adjacent cabinets.
If it's a wall cabinet, different story. That where a video showing you how-to is needed. To complicated to explain in a short comment.
@@kitchensbyranneswould you be posting a “how to modify depth” video soon? 😅 mine is a wall cabinet ..
Hi Rannes, thank you so much for your videos, a real eye opener for someone about to install their first IKEA kitchen.... How do you cut the panels without chipping the finish on the laminate or the glossy finish? do you use an 60 or 80 teeth blade on your table or circular saw or is there a better way? Thanks again
You're very welcome.
Yes, a 60+ teeth blade on my table saw will work just fine. I also use track saw depending on the situation.
Can you cut cabinet doors width?
Yes....and no.
You can cut them, but it will look awful, so you don't want to.
Some doors have foil and cannot be cut. Some doors are painted, and you need a professional approach to make them look good. I do not cut doors. Never.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you so much
I wish to use a 21x30 (WxH) upper cabinet, and use its lower part to support a compact micro-wave... that I wish to hide behind a door. I was thinking of installing an horizontal (so it protrudes less when open) door 15'' high, with a regular swing door 15'' high above (both from drawer fronts). Will that work ? I am assuming the upper door could not open if the lower horizontal one is open and make an obstruction; is that so?
Sounds like a plan.
Keep in mind though, that having a electrical outlet behind a door inside a cabinet might not be to code.
The horizontal hinges can be adjusted to limit the opening angle. See page 23 in this document: www.ikea.com/ca/en/assembly_instructions/utrusta-hinge-w-damper-for-horizontal-door-white__AA-2184306-8-100.pdf
You will need to get a Torx20 bit for the adjustment.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for the info!! Are you confident Ikea upper cabinet is strong enough tu support a 22-25lb microwave ?
@@sandra9269 Wanna hold me liable?🤣
Yes, no problem, if the rail is firmly secured into the wall.
@@kitchensbyrannes oops, my idea won't work: there are no Askersund drawer fronts 21'' wide !
Oh yes, true. The black sheep of the Ikea kitchen family of cabinets.
Is the 5in increments the same for the Ikea PAK wardrobes? Thanks
Hi Jay,
Thank you for your question.
I'm not sure about the PAX. You'll have to check the heights of the doors as they are the determining factor.
Thanks for sharing. How about shorten cabinet depth?
How can one proceed to reduce a 12x15x30 to 12x12x30?
What would you suggest to achieve this?
I'll make a video about that soon. Until then, you're on your own ☺️👍
@@kitchensbyrannesI finally found a way to do this. It comes out not bad. I had to cut both sides and base board 2 inches from center since I still need the legs and the side screws. After that, it's a matter of using Kreg pocket hole for 3/4 mark, drill hole, glue the boards and screw them after that together. That's how I managed to get the depth shorten. A lot of work though. 😊
Good job 👍
So you cut the height how did you go with the doors?
Hi Luke. If I cut the cabinet to 75" as an example, I have to combine doors and drawers to hit that total e.g.:
30" + 15" + 30" = 75"
Great video! From reading the comments, I know how you feel about cutting the doors (and I have the same anxieties). However, I need wall cabinets that are 12" high...any suggestions?
Hi Steph. Thank you for your comment.
Cutting doors, huh?
Well...you know already that I wouldn't do it unless the door is solid wood with a flat design, i.e. no frames or whatever it is called.
Do you only need one door 12" in height, and how wide is it?
If you can somehow combine/adjust the width of those wall cabinets to 30 or 40", you can use a 12" wide door and horizontal hinges.
@@kitchensbyrannes I'm going with a flat door design, but am also not sure if the outer layer is paint or veneer with IKEA (in regards to matching the color/finish on the cut edges). I recently purchased an old house with low ceilings (7 feet) and would only have 12" above certain areas/appliances. So for example, the minimum 15" tall cabinets for above the fridge are too tall, so I was thinking of turning a 12" wall cabinet on it's side and modifying it. So sticking with the fridge example, purchasing a 12" wide, 15" deep, and 40" long wall cabinet, turning it on it's side and cutting it down closer to 36" to match the width of the fridge. However, that would also result in needing to cut the door down. There are 36" long doors, but then they revert back to the pesky 15" width. I think I'd rather cut the short side of a 12" wide door than the long side of a 15" wide door, if at all.
Another option is of course open shelves in these areas, but I'm not sure open shelves will be conducive to my household 😅
@@stephminor4585
Maybe cutting the cabinet to 10 x 36" and use a drawer front and horizontal hinges. Ikea actually has a fridge cabinet which is 36" wide and 10" but I don't know if it has been discontinued.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks! I'll look into that!
In my kitchen my refrigerator is standard size, meaning 35" deep, sides to hinges are 30" deep to the wall, and 36" wide and 71" tall; when I add the ikea refrigerator cabinets to the top they are only 24" deep; I can bring them out 30" on the plan but I worry about how I will install them since the wall will be 6" behind. If I had a 30" deep cabinet I could install on the rails as normal. Any ideas? People with standard refrigerators (as opposed to counter depth like all the Ikea ones) must have some sort of solution. I would appreciate your ideas on this. Thank you again for a very useful channel for us IKEA newbies.
Hi Lyndon,
Sorry for taking a whole week to reply. When I need to bump out a cabinet the way you describe it here, I use a few 2x4's which I screw onto the wall in layers until I get the right distance. I will then mount the rail onto the 2x4.
Depending on the layout, I sometimes add a stack of 2x4's at the bottom of the cabinet, but I can often dismiss this as the fridge cabinet will be hanging on a pantry cabinet to one side and a big panel on the other.
Is it possible to cut a door too?
Hi Kavita,
Thank you for your question.
Sure you can cut it shorter but you'll end up with an open end that needs some sort of "detailing".
Some of the Ikea doors have a foil on them and others are painted.
Personally I have never cut a door because I think it's a bad idea. I cannot see how the open cut can be fixed so the door will last very long.
I never cut cabinet to a size I cannot cover with a drawer front converted to a door i.e. either 5 or 10 inches wide and whatever height I can make from the total length of the drawer fronts.
Awesome!
When you cut off a cabinet by 5" are you saying you need to buy a door that is 5" shorter? That is, you can't also cut the door by 5"?
Yes most likely. You can cut a door, but it will look awful, so I will never do that. You can only get doors 15, 20, 30, 40 and 50 inches in height, so if you need a 25" high door, toss a 5" drawer beside the 20" door, like playing Tetris.
Would this approach also work to make the cabinets less deep? Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you for your question, Michelle.
Just to clarify. Do you want to shorten a shallow cabinet (15" deep) or do you want to reduce the depth of a cabinet?
If you want to shorten a shallow cabinet, the procedure is the same. If you, on the other hand, want to reduce the depth of a cabinet, it is a bit different task as you will need to make a new groove for the back panel or accept that it is just nailed directly to the back edge.
@@kitchensbyrannes I have the same question thank you. I believe they mean reduce the depth of the cabinet. I am having a hard time finding the length of the drawer glides I just know they are shorter by several inches than the actual cabinet depth. I have a space id like to use Ikea for but the max depth is 15" which is fine with their uppers but not lowers where id need drawers. any help and insight would be appreciated thank you for this video is was SO helpful
@@Maru_reacts_mochi The Maximera hardware for shallow cabinets may work as they also have the damper built in. They are just shy of 14" in length.
I needed 22" deep base cabinets and Ikea doesn't make that. I took the 24" standard base and ran them through my table saw to cut off two inches. I then ran the side and base panels through the table saw so the blade only cut part way through to create an 1/8" dado for the back to slide in.
I had planned on using the drawers from the 15" deep base cabinets but those drawers are only 12" deep which left a bunch of wasted space. I installed the 24" base slides and found the dampers were only two long by about a quarter inch. I just marked the back and drilled holes where the dampers hit the back so they could poke through behind the cabinet. You can't see the holes with the drawers installed. Bam! Full length drawers in a 22" base. I wish I had done a video on it.
Have you ever shortened an IKEA door? The other day I asked about how to “extend” an IKEA cabinet by making a small “box” on top of the main cabinet, but I have now come to realize that I would probably actually rather shorten a (e.g.) a pair of 80cm and 140cm Veddinge doors to 70cm and 130cm, respectively. My reasoning is a little strange, but it has to do with how the cabinet is supposed to cover a fridge and a freezer with non-IKEA dimensions
No.....never. And I wouldn't.
That said, if there's a door where you can get away with a decent result, Veddinge must be it. Cut, sand, paint.
@@kitchensbyrannes Fair enough. Have you tried making custom doors using MDF? I would imagine one could get a result similar to that of Veddinge by sanding properly and find just the right paint
Nope. I never do those things ☺️
I'm sticking to what you can get at Ikea. The only way to maintain a good work-life balance 😃
@@kitchensbyrannes Fair enough! Thanks for your honest and quick responses!
You're welcome. Good luck. It's not difficult if you have time to spend.
Since I'm installing a full kitchen every week, I don't have much time for tinkering.
Why choose to cut from the top instead of the bottom?
Hi Joe,
Good question.
Whether I cut from the top or the bottom depends on the location of the cabinet.
If it is a high cabinet like the one in the video, it does not make a big difference which ends you cut, as long as you cut the same end of the two side panels. I like symmetry. However, if the cabinet is sitting under a bulkhead the cut-off end isn't visible if I cut the top, so I prefer that option.
If I am shortening a wall cabinet, I do not want to have the cut at the bottom, as that will be visible, at least for short people.
You do a wonderful job and service. I really like all your videos but I have a question about shortening the door or cabinets fronts and how you would best patch the seam. I want to use Bobdyn style and so for the fronts I will have to take out of the middle and bring the ends together for the fronts. I am wondering if you have ever had to do this? and how best to patch and repair the seam on complex fronts like Bobdyn.
@Lyndon Foster Thank you for your feedback. I'm happy that you find my videos useful.
Shortening a door. I have never done that and I'm certain that I never will.
Unless you know how to professionally finish the end that has been cut, I don't think it's a good solution from a technical point of view. The Bodbyn door is made from MDF so moisture will eventually find its way in unless you really are successful in sealing it.
Cutting it into two parts by removing a part of the middle will also weaken the door.
As you can tell, I'm not a fan but that doesn't mean it isn't possible. I just don't have the knowledge and skills to make it perfect, and if the end result isn't perfect, I won't do it.
When I shorten cabinets in width or height, I always aim for a size to which Ikea has a door or drawer that fits.
If that isn't possible, I would have a front made to fit, from one of the many after-market companies who make fronts for Ikea cabinets.
In Canada, there are a few such as Swedish Door or Kitch.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for this video. I am about to do the same and your method is the same as i was planning. However, i do need to cut the door down. But I am wondering what you means by this commment?
"When I shorten cabinets in width or height, I always aim for a size to which Ikea has a door or drawer that fits. "
If you get a door that fits, then why did you cut it down to start? if you cut a cabinet, you would have to cut the door? so how have you managed cutting doors to match your cut carcass ? I am wanting to cut top and bottom not width.
I would also buy a roll of edging strip from hardware and iron this on the cut edge to seal it from moisture. White or black, no one will view the top or bottom edge of the cut door.
@@ppeterts Thank you for your comment. I will try to explain it a bit better.
First things first. I do never cut the door. Never. Cutting an Ikea door is in my opinion, not something anyone should do. Most of the Ikea doors are made from MDF and cutting a painted door or a door with foil is inconsistent with the quality I strive to deliver every single time I install a kitchen.
This means that I cannot cut a cabinet to a height that cannot be divided by five (5) as all drawer fronts and doors are made in 5" increments in regards to height.
The drawer fronts from Ikea come in the heights of 5", 10" and 15". The doors come in 15", 20", 30", 40", 50" and 60".
This means I can cut any cabinet to a height of the combined height of the drawers and doors I intend to use when I add one or several of these heights together.
in the video I reduced the height of the pantry cabinet from 80" to 75" and, as I remember it, I used two 15" drawers, a 15" high door and a 30" high door. Total equals 75".
I hope that helped.
sorry I did my answer in the reply below. if I need to re type i can. apologies, New to this
No worries, I noticed 👍 Thank you for your question.
Watching here coz my employer told me to find out how to shorten the IKEA bookshelf 😢 the thing is they inly jave Seesaw 😢😢
Yeah, wrong tool for the job 😵💫