Very helpful. Thank You. I am going to try to flush the power steering fluid and I'm also giving it a try to change the Transmission fluid.. Wish me good luck. Thank You again. Have a great night. God bless you.
Love those red shorts. You're a jack of all trades. You save alot of money by doing things yourself. I have a 2004 Ford Focus ZTS with 87,000 miles. I love that thing.
Why not use clean oil to lub the rim and gasket to ensure no degree is there? My 2001 Ford focus Lx 5 speed does not have a dip stick. Was told it had to be filled underneath?
Because it doesn’t matter (or at least would make no meaningful difference to performance) - might as well put some final use to the old oil before you dispose.
Only thing you didnt show was how to remove and replace the filter. Besides thats thumbs up. Just changed the trans fluid on my wife car. Saved me 150 bucks in labor cost at a shop.
What i do to change out the transmission fluid is i cut a 2x4 and place it under the pan and remove all the bolds except the back on until it drains then i use the 2x4 to hold the pan to hlp remove the last pan screw makes it eazy .
Your intake manifold flaps are ticking gotta get on that or serious damage could come if not taken care of, had to change mine but I just did a flap delete you could look it up solves that problem completely
@@blascastro4576 yeah you just pull the intake, pull out the rod holding them in and remove the flaps but keep the surrounding plastic since it helps hold the gasket in and put everything back in except the flaps so put the rod back in and the actuator that way everything runs like the computer was designed to and won’t throw any codes, might idle high on first crank might not it all depends on the car but it should adjust itself there’s videos in how to do this you can google Ford Focus with the year if your car intake flaps and videos will pop up on how to do it
I think you may have just been catching the noise of the camshaft, which is a pretty normal sound at initial start up. Ironically, I did actually check out the intake to see if a cleaning video would be worth it, everything was squeaky clean on this car, so decided not to go with that video for tutorial.
I bought my 2007 2.0L focus automatic a year ago. I don't see any records from previous owner that the transmission fluid was ever changed it now has 101k miles on it should I change it? I drive 400 miles a week for work.
I’d recommend still swapping the fluid - the old adage on keeping old fluid for traditional transmission can be true, but new fluid could still have longevity benefit.
The magnet is not for filtering, the filter will catch anything that magnet could catch, it is there for diagnosing abnormal or excess gear wear. The shop manual uses 9 qt for fluid flushing, 3qts at a time, using a "calibrated container" aka 10qt bucket with volume markings. This is without a pan drop, but it would be easy to do the math on the fluid drained or added after replacing the pan, subtract that from the 9qts.
Can you make a video on how you would professionally service a 2006 focus transmission, I'd love to see how you would do it better. I'll check your channel for results. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@RMonkey I just did a full rebuild of a '68 IH 140 transmission/differential with PTO and both left and right final drive units. (The final drives are large reduction gears at the wheels which also allow 24 inch ground clearance under the differential with 48 inch dia tires; brakes are on the inner high speed axle.) Unfortunately I didn't film the process.
@@alanchowe Orrr just never replace the transmission fluid to begin with, which I'd argue is worse than reusing a filter. ;) Overall it's a bummer to remove any parts that add obvious servicability (I say doing similar work on our Nissan Rogue, equally sans drain plug *and* dip stick.
No drain plug to avoid crooked knuckle head owners of jiffy lube ripping off the poor $1200 used 175,000 mile focus buyer in God's coal country still drive. No plug means they have to do the filter also without scamming us. The corrupt "put a drain plug" oBamAoBideNoBraiNomics mandated us to buy an 85k ev gifting a $7000 credit!
There should be - the dipstick is black, so it can blend in with the rest of the engine bay. Just look carefully along the upper right hand side of the engine bay as you’re looking in
@@MattStephensRich Theres an official Ford sticker on the sump pan saying sealed for lifetime. This is a UK model. Maybe theres a filler hole on top somewhere I could pump into but Im not sure
You have to remove the entire gasket and tilt it!!! They don’t know this!!! They are driving the fucking automatic! The manual does not have a place to enter the damn transmission fluid without Siphoning it in the fill hole.. outdated af
@@MattStephensRich I’ve done my research, it’s trash, I’ve found other mtf fluids to be better because their temperate boiling point is higher they prevent more corrosion
That pan should have been cleaned with a degreaser, dried and then used again. There is no need to wipe the pan with transmission fluid, just clean dry and apply the gasket and torque to specifications.
Good point, I've found the transmission fluid is a great way to cut through grime, hence the recommendation. It will ultimately end up dirty within miles of driving anyways. lol
You should put some gear oil on there to prevent oxidation and seal air out, but not transmission fluid, that would just cause rusting and your gasket will chip away over time.
@@MattStephensRich it’s not the same as the MTF viscosities. If you put an mtf viscosity on there instead of ATF you increase the capacitance of the temperature to 140 degrees making it a prooxidant longer in the oxidative cycle, preventing more rust than a thinner viscosity so that transmission fluid won’t leak once the seal is broken from subduing wear and tare, and corrosion (vibrations loosen bolts, speed bumps too etc) another alternative is brake cleaner fluid, just don’t seal it with adhesives, I have found cars like this, if you use MTF fluid it will seal your gasket longer because a higher viscosity subdues more heat 140 degrees making your transmission fluid impenetrable longer.
Hello, I have 2009 1.4 petrol ford fiesta with the same transmission ( 4F27E ). Can I use the same transmission fluid you mentioned on the description ( Mercon LV) for my vehicle? Thank you!
@@MattStephensRich I haven't got a manual for my vehicle as I recently got it second handed. But the transmission looks the same and from here (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_4F27E_transmission) it tells me to use Mercon LV. Hopefully it is the right one. Thank you!!
Av been haveing trouble with my reverse light on mine av changed the bulb but still not working have u eny suggestions ma friend...peace from glasgow scotland uk
@@MattStephensRich You should read the bulletin. Talks about Type M5 and Mercon V uses. Mazda 3 only use ATF Type M5, Mercon V may cause shift quality complaints and may even damage the transmission. Bulletin No: 05-002/13. Last issued: 03/11/2013. Mazda North American Operations.
Ah got it. Do bear in mind since this is a Ford, I kept it in recommended spec for that application. It also looks like the 4F27E transmission isn't listed within that Mazda bulletin (which is to say, not sure if Mazda uses the same transmission). Since posting this video (and I've updated in description), Ford recommends using Mercon LV for this application, which has replaced the Mercon V spec for a lot of transmission applications: www.motorcraft.com/content/dam/ford-motorcraft/en_us/motorcraft_global/products/lubricants/quick_reference_charts/automatic%20transmission%20fluids%20chart_english.pdf
I've been reading that if it's a 2007 Ford Focus or earlier, you have to use Mercon V and you CANNOT USE Mercon LV as a substitute. I'm currently having issues as I tried to run Mercon LV in my 2007 Ford Focus, when the owner's manual said to use Mercon V. Everywhere I'm reading is saying that Mercon V and LV are NOT interchangeable.
The reason you won’t see Mercon LV in the owner’s manual is because it wasn’t invented yet, and was released in the mid-2010s. Here’s the official Ford Motorcraft transmission fluid advisory if helpful to put your mind at ease. 😊 www.motorcraft.com/content/dam/ford-motorcraft/en_us/motorcraft_global/products/lubricants/quick_reference_charts/automatic%20transmission%20fluids%20chart_english.pdf
Aye bruh bruh take the fill cap off with a 8mm hex key, Put a thin two-way plastic tube in the fill line, connect it to a hand pump, press the pump to pressurize air in the bolted transmission filter causing the oil to pump out the sealed gasket into a Y-shaped plastic line. Don’t even remove the gasket just use pressurized air. Quicker and easier. Put the Y shaped plastic line back in the fill line, but this time place the end in a bucket, fill this bucket with 2 quarts of gear oil. Use 2.1 quarts of gear oil if your vehicle was manufactured before 2001. Make sure you use ATF fluid for automatics and MTF for manual transmissions. Start hand-pumping the new fluid from the bucket back into the fill hole. They even have the hand pumps that connect directly to the gear oil bottle at AutoZone, Oreillys etc.. EASY!!
Indeed a good way to get new fluid in! One flag on automatic transmissions - you still have to drop the pan to replace the filter and clean the trap magnet.
I’ll bring more facts, grades with the letter W are intended for use at lower temperatures and are based on a maximum low temperature viscosity and a maximum borderline pumping temperature, as well as a minimum viscosity at 100C. The low temperature viscosity is measured by means of a multi-temperature version of ASTM D2602 ‘Method of Test for apparent Viscosity of Motor Oils at Low temperature using the Cold Cranking Simulator’. Viscosities measured by this method have been found to correlate with engine speeds developed during low temperature cranking. Borderline pumping temperature is measured according to ASTM D3829 ‘Standard Method for Predicting the Borderline Pumping Temperature of Engine Oil’. This provides a measure of an oils’ ability to flow to the engine oil pump inlet and provide adequate engine oil pressure during the initial stages of operation. Oils without the letter W, intended for use at higher temperatures, are based on the viscosity at 100oC only. These are measured by ASTM D445 ‘Method of Test for Kinematic Viscosity of temperature and Opaque Liquids’. A ‘Multi-grade’ oil is one whose low temperature viscosity and borderline temperature satisfy the requirements of one of the W grades and whose viscosity at 100oC is within the stipulated range of one-W-grades.
It can be on there pretty good, would recommend using a flimsy piece of metal or plastic (paint scraper, old butter knife, etc) to gently insert in between the pan and gasket, breaking the seal. You may need to use a hammer to gently break the seal (good news is as long as you’re careful, you are not at risk of breaking any sensitive components).
Would you advise a flush or no? Not sure what it says in the manual. My friends is at 160k miles. Not sure if the last owner(s) did any changes or not.
Ultimately no, as you’d only eek out a pint or two more, which would have any necessarily better/improved benefit over doing this fluid swap. With such high mileage on your vehicle and transmission, there can also sometimes be a risk of transmission slip edge due to very new fluid not having grit and other fragment components that gradually wear off in the transmission. Changing the fluid is the ultimate best practice overall!
NOOOOOO DONT DO IT, you need to find the specific spec for how much goes in the pan!!!!! Unless you drain the torque converter. Start with 2 quarts let it idle till your warm and add if needed! Please don’t add 7 quarts if you DONT CHANGE YIUR TORQUE CONVERTER PLEASE SAVE YOURSELF THE 2,000$ for a new trans!!!!
Do notice I clearly state in the video to check the level often when doing the swap. For the record, the focus is still running strong to this day, on the same fluid change.
@@MattStephensRich No problem using a gasket, it is easier if you ever take it off again. I was just giving the proper Ford product to use in case someone needs to know. I'm sure there are other products that work just as well. Good video, by the way. Thanks
@@RoadKing05FLHRFord techs have gasket maker in their toolboxes. Much cheaper and faster than using the parts department. For diy, the gasket is kinda idiot proof for preventing leaks. Same reason Ford doesn't add a drain plug like damn near every other manufacturer. Cheaper and faster to install at the factory.
Hey Matt, nice video. Is it OK to use a couple quarts of Mercon LV (for drain and refill) mixed with the Mercon V (which would be already inside the trans)? Or should I stick with buying Mercon V for this vehicle? 🤔
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for the reply. I successfully got done with the job today on my 2007 SE, and here are some notes on how I did it: I found it impossible to get the connectors off, on either the radiator or the one that goes into the transmission. There's just not enough clearance to get a firm grip on the connector release tabs. And I don't have very large hands! Also the 2007 Ford Focus shop manual has some incorrect information. It says to "press the button on the YELLOW tab" when removing the connector. However on my car, the yellow tab connector is on the TOP fitting of the oil cooler. Later in the manual directions, it shows draining the fluid from the BOTTOM cooler connection (which is where it actually comes out from). Not sure if this is a mistake from the factory, or in the Ford manual. It's nearly impossible to get a grip on the connectors by the radiator, because the horn is in the way. I ended up tracing the bottom hose back to the transmission. Removed the left wheel and bottom fasteners to the inner wheel well liner, and pulling it back out of the way. Somewhat better access to the connector where it goes into the transmission. But I still couldn't get it to release. I ended up unscrewing the hose barb fitting from the transmission case (17mm box end wrench--and it rotates inside the hose fitting). Rotating the hose and fitting 180 deg counter-clockwise so it's pointing down, and then I could remove the hose from the fitting. Also another note--the Ford Shop Manual directions say to "press the tab", and the accompanying illustration only shows one tab. However there are TWO tabs on each side to press together, to get the fitting to release.
I don't believe you should be soaking the gasket with oil. I've never removed a gasket and saw it wet. If t Is a material like cork or paper. Wetting it with liquid does not sound ideal
Use high viscosity mtf fluid, it has a higher boiling point so it can prevent more rust from oxidative cycles. The avg transmission fluid works best when the hydraulic valve is in the drive position 1st gear, the latest synthetic viscosities are more durable and protect the gasket longer and prevent your solenoids from recognizing electrical errors when the hydraulic valve is actuated by the solenoid, which is just an alternating current that gets controlled by the clutch (the driver) I have found people exposing higher viscosity mtf as a better resolution to a MT that sticks... and now I know why. the boiling point is higher 140 (twice as much) so it endures less corrosion
You may need to drain the transmission and refill blind (basically pay super close attention to the amount of fluid going in). If you're asking for a different vehicle that doesn't have a dipstick by design, they also can have a separately sold dipstick (similar to our current Nissan Rogue).
Fundamentay disagree. Take the pan off & clean it & the magnet with brake cleaner. Insure the mating surface is shiny clean. The gasket needs to be dry with both mating surfaces.
… but the pan and magnet did come off? And for the gasket, it’s standard practice to have it wet - this is why it’s always recommended to have your oil filter gasket wet to ensure proper seal.
@@MattStephensRich yes, and whenever you replace a pan gasket, you either do it dry, or use Permatext. With today's gaskets, it's always clean, dry mating surfaces. Gospel.
Damn dude that motor runs like s***. Also I would not recommend anyone repeat this procedure on their car. For starters when you take the transmission pan loose in the case there is no drain plug you should leave a few bolts on one side still attatched so the fluid can run out and you don't have to hold the pan the entire time. Then when you take out the transmission filter use a plastic not metal scraper or putty knife to clean off all the old gasket material off that this guy left on the transmissions mating surface. Then decrease it with brake cleaner. Then use a lint free rag.. Not paper towels to wipe excess fluid from the pan then remove the magnet and spray the rest of the fluid off the pan with brake cleaner. Clean the magnet and replace. Use RTV silicone to slightly tack the gasket to the pan in the correct position(just a few dabs hereand there) Wait a half hour then replace the filter lubing the o ring with fresh atf. Take the pan in one hand and a bolt in the other and fasten the pan to the trans. Then add another and so on(dont have all 57 in the pan thats a noob move) tighten hand tigt then torque them to spec.(this guy over tightened them i saw it. ) put the amount in you took out then add to proper level. Warm up trans then check level car running in park. Repeat the process 2-3 times after driving it. Dont drain from the trans cooler you could ruin your pump.
I don't need to make one when there's plenty of other people out there that know how to change transmission fluid. Most of them are missing half of their teeth and make minimum wage. You're worth maybe $4 an hour
@@christiansotterley3805 I'll take his video over your troll ass comments, punk. At least he's trying to be helpful. Did he hit a sore spot for you or something? How did this conversation get into dental hygiene anyway? Oh, that's right! You're a troll!
Also do not put mercon v in a 2008 or newer. (Might be 2007 look it up!) They take mercon LV!! Dont use this guys videos for advice. Check out fordtechmacaloco or whatever hes a pro.
of course not you dont want to ruin the already disaster of a crap DCT transmission they used in the 2008 and up ive had to replace more 08+ trans on a focus then 04+ F150's with there destructive snapring issue
Well I have 125,000 on my 2007 Focus and I have changed the transmission fluid every 10,000 mile since birth and drilled and added a drain plug. I have used from the start Amsoil Synthetic fluid; originally is was their standard red fluid but it was changed to the Blue www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/signature-series-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATLQT-EA , been running this since 50,000 no issues.. No issues with it being a good transmission but you need to change it more often and the filter, and if so inclined add an external spin on filter for maximum protection.
@@MattStephensRich I responded to the person last night unfortunately it did not post. It was a quite lengthy post. From here in out I will save what I write in word and if the post does not happen I will re post the comment. As far as I'm concerned Hydraulics prefer to be as clean as possible. Tight tolerances is number one. Anything small getting into the valve body can cause all kinds of issues. For fun, and for my wife from Turkmenistan; had no driving experience so I purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 100K on it and the transmission fluid had not been changed, it was black. I ran 4 to 5 gallons through the transmission at the time until it came out pristine red as it should be, I added to the loop a new cooler with a fan, I also added to the loop a spin on oil/transmission filter. Needless to say is stayed perfectly red, we are not filtering these transmissions as we should. Particulate matter some say is good for a transmission, no it is not. The clutch packs will be just fine if we filter correctly. It's not being done in new 6/7/variable rate transmissions. You do have to watch pressures as a long hose will lower pressures. To large a filter will have the same impact. Do add a spin on filter if you are so inclined or have the mechanical background. It's a game changer for your automatic transmission longevity wise. Keep the hose short and a small spin on... Heat and dirty are bad for your transmission.
@@robclearwater4978 The drian plug for the transmission B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit Amazon link that I found, www.amazon.com/80250-Automatic-Transmission-Universal-Drain/dp/B00029WR78/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2PE0BF7OL4LSH&dchild=1&keywords=b%26m+transmission+drain+plug&qid=1622518977&sprefix=b%26m+transmission+plug%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-1 Spin on kit for the automatic filter, Perma-Cool 10678 Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kit , Amazon link .. www.amazon.com/Perma-Cool-10678-Standard-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B003N88OWW/ref=sr_1_30?dchild=1&keywords=spin+on+automatic+transmission+fluid+filter+kit&qid=1622519337&sr=8-30 , Can't say these are the best prices but at least it will give you an idea and then look on TH-cam for people that have done it before. Pretty straight forward.
In the video description 😊: A transmission filter/gasket kit, 8 mm socket, 7 quarts of Mercon V fluid (or Mercon LV, as Ford has updated specs), and a catch pan.
Using the transmission fluid actually helps make the new seal, just the same as using motor oil to lubricate your oil filter gasket. And indeed, you can also use a liquid sealer - I just used the gasket that came with the filter kit in this video.
This guy watched a youtube video on how to do it then did it wrong and acted like hes the pro lol. Watching you strip out the aluminum threads on the trans made my eyes hurt lol maybe your next video can be on how to use a tap and die to fix those threads lmao
@@BeastmodeBeats Just finished a 2010 job, that freakin pan was stuck on there. Left two bolts, loosened about two turns, in at the front and then had to PRY on the pan in several places to get it to break loose. DO NOT pry in one place only or you may bend the pan. Be prepared for the flood when it breaks loose. I also recommend starting the bolts by hand-no power tools-as those are very small shank bolts and it would be a pain in the keester to repair the threads. BTW this particular Focus took 3.5 quarts of LV fluid.
Very helpful. Thank You. I am going to try to flush the power steering fluid and I'm also giving it a try to change the Transmission fluid.. Wish me good luck. Thank You again. Have a great night. God bless you.
Hope it goes well!
After 5 hours of research on yt , finally find how to change oil. All other videos have automatic title but was manual ;)
Thank you
Glad it helped!
Just bought a 2000 Ford focus and I want to change the transmission fluid. This video will help greatly, thank you :)
Hope you didnt do it like he did
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love those red shorts. You're a jack of all trades. You save alot of money by doing things yourself. I have a 2004 Ford Focus ZTS with 87,000 miles. I love that thing.
Glad I could be of help!
Why not use clean oil to lub the rim and gasket to ensure no degree is there?
My 2001 Ford focus Lx 5 speed does not have a dip stick. Was told it had to be filled underneath?
Because it doesn’t matter (or at least would make no meaningful difference to performance) - might as well put some final use to the old oil before you dispose.
Only thing you didnt show was how to remove and replace the filter. Besides thats thumbs up. Just changed the trans fluid on my wife car. Saved me 150 bucks in labor cost at a shop.
Glad it helped!
WHAT FILTER ?
@@dropdroppie1653 transmission filter
What i do to change out the transmission fluid is i cut a 2x4 and place it under the pan and remove all the bolds except the back on until it drains then i use the 2x4 to hold the pan to hlp remove the last pan screw makes it eazy .
Neat solution!
leave a bolt on high side and drain as much fluid as you can then drop it down
CHRIS FIX SAYS NOT CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID ON A OLD CAR ?
That’s a true adage - it’s your call!
Did you show how to replace the filter??
Just remove the sensor and it pops right off. :)
Your intake manifold flaps are ticking gotta get on that or serious damage could come if not taken care of, had to change mine but I just did a flap delete you could look it up solves that problem completely
Do you have info on that I think I need my car may need that done ?
@@blascastro4576 yeah you just pull the intake, pull out the rod holding them in and remove the flaps but keep the surrounding plastic since it helps hold the gasket in and put everything back in except the flaps so put the rod back in and the actuator that way everything runs like the computer was designed to and won’t throw any codes, might idle high on first crank might not it all depends on the car but it should adjust itself there’s videos in how to do this you can google Ford Focus with the year if your car intake flaps and videos will pop up on how to do it
I think you may have just been catching the noise of the camshaft, which is a pretty normal sound at initial start up. Ironically, I did actually check out the intake to see if a cleaning video would be worth it, everything was squeaky clean on this car, so decided not to go with that video for tutorial.
I bought my 2007 2.0L focus automatic a year ago. I don't see any records from previous owner that the transmission fluid was ever changed it now has 101k miles on it should I change it? I drive 400 miles a week for work.
I’d recommend still swapping the fluid - the old adage on keeping old fluid for traditional transmission can be true, but new fluid could still have longevity benefit.
WHY NOT IN 1GEAR ?
Do I need to take the tire off? I only have ramps
Nope! You can do it with ramps for sure.
The magnet is not for filtering, the filter will catch anything that magnet could catch, it is there for diagnosing abnormal or excess gear wear.
The shop manual uses 9 qt for fluid flushing, 3qts at a time, using a "calibrated container" aka 10qt bucket with volume markings. This is without a pan drop, but it would be easy to do the math on the fluid drained or added after replacing the pan, subtract that from the 9qts.
good point!
Can you make a video on how you would professionally service a 2006 focus transmission, I'd love to see how you would do it better. I'll check your channel for results. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@RMonkey I just did a full rebuild of a '68 IH 140 transmission/differential with PTO and both left and right final drive units. (The final drives are large reduction gears at the wheels which also allow 24 inch ground clearance under the differential with 48 inch dia tires; brakes are on the inner high speed axle.) Unfortunately I didn't film the process.
I'm looking for an automatic gearbox serial number for a 2000 ford focus Essence 2.0L 2000 mk1 please 🇩🇿
Sorry don't know that exact reference!
Cool idea is aftermarket finned aluminum pan, cleaning up the old 8mm rusty steel bolts and light spray of aluminum spray on the steel 8mm bolts.
That is a great idea!
Did he not change the filter in this video
Yup! Just pops right off.
I'm no stranger to changing car fluids, but my God I do not want to mess with this one. No drain plug, Ford was smoking crack on this one.
Definitely points to “meant to be done in the shop”. Promise it isn’t that bad a job!
No drain plug ensures you replace the filter and not just the oil, unless you are an idiot and do all that work then not replace the filter
@@alanchowe Orrr just never replace the transmission fluid to begin with, which I'd argue is worse than reusing a filter. ;) Overall it's a bummer to remove any parts that add obvious servicability (I say doing similar work on our Nissan Rogue, equally sans drain plug *and* dip stick.
No drain plug to avoid crooked knuckle head owners of jiffy lube ripping off the poor $1200 used 175,000 mile focus buyer in God's coal country still drive.
No plug means they have to do the filter also without scamming us.
The corrupt "put a drain plug" oBamAoBideNoBraiNomics mandated us to buy an 85k ev gifting a $7000 credit!
Do you need a special too to remove the line from radiator? And do i remove the lower or the upper per your vid?
Nope!
Why didn’t you show how to get the filter off ?
It just pops right off. 😊
Thanks for the video, it really made my life a lot easier when doing the job
Glad it helped!
How do you refill if you dont have a dipstick?
There is a dipstick at the top
@@MattStephensRich No dipstick on mine anywhere under the hood. You think there will still be a filler hole on top of the box?
There should be - the dipstick is black, so it can blend in with the rest of the engine bay. Just look carefully along the upper right hand side of the engine bay as you’re looking in
@@MattStephensRich Theres an official Ford sticker on the sump pan saying sealed for lifetime.
This is a UK model.
Maybe theres a filler hole on top somewhere I could pump into but Im not sure
You have to remove the entire gasket and tilt it!!! They don’t know this!!! They are driving the fucking automatic! The manual does not have a place to enter the damn transmission fluid without Siphoning it in the fill hole.. outdated af
Is this for the 2.3 auto??
Nope, 2.0L! The process would be roughly the same for the 2.3L though.
Hi l have 2006 ford focus zetec 1.6 petrol semi auto. Is it same process?
Just double checked; yes, should be the same process, as the 1.6 euro spec shares the same 4F27E Transmission as this 2.0 US spec.
What viscosity of gear oil is used for a manual transmission 2003 Ford Focus SE 2.0L?
XT-M5-QS
Yup - the specific spec to keep an eye out for is WSD-M2C200-C; you can indeed get the Ford XT-M5-QS part numbered fluid from any Ford dealer.
@@MattStephensRich I’ve done my research, it’s trash, I’ve found other mtf fluids to be better because their temperate boiling point is higher they prevent more corrosion
Can you please tell me what is the ideal working temperature of the ATF in this trasmision?? Thanks
Target ATF temps can often mirror motor oil - keeping it in between 200-175F is a good place to be.
@@MattStephensRich many thanks friend... now i convert to Celcius. :P
Thanks again for respond. Regards from Chile.
@@jatm2011 sure thing!
55 degrees, the middle line on the readout.
Their fluid is outdated
That pan should have been cleaned with a degreaser, dried and then used again. There is no need to wipe the pan with transmission fluid, just clean dry and apply the gasket and torque to specifications.
Good point, I've found the transmission fluid is a great way to cut through grime, hence the recommendation. It will ultimately end up dirty within miles of driving anyways. lol
You should put some gear oil on there to prevent oxidation and seal air out, but not transmission fluid, that would just cause rusting and your gasket will chip away over time.
Oil it up!!!
You know transmission fluid is gear oil, right? 😅
@@MattStephensRich it’s not the same as the MTF viscosities. If you put an mtf viscosity on there instead of ATF you increase the capacitance of the temperature to 140 degrees making it a prooxidant longer in the oxidative cycle, preventing more rust than a thinner viscosity so that transmission fluid won’t leak once the seal is broken from subduing wear and tare, and corrosion (vibrations loosen bolts, speed bumps too etc) another alternative is brake cleaner fluid, just don’t seal it with adhesives, I have found cars like this, if you use MTF fluid it will seal your gasket longer because a higher viscosity subdues more heat 140 degrees making your transmission fluid impenetrable longer.
Hello, I have 2009 1.4 petrol ford fiesta with the same transmission ( 4F27E ). Can I use the same transmission fluid you mentioned on the description ( Mercon LV) for my vehicle? Thank you!
You should be clear - double check your manual just to be safe! (And bear in mind, your manual may read Mercon V, which has been sunset for LV)
@@MattStephensRich I haven't got a manual for my vehicle as I recently got it second handed. But the transmission looks the same and from here (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_4F27E_transmission) it tells me to use Mercon LV. Hopefully it is the right one. Thank you!!
@@bjh6937 hah yes, same transmission 😊
Good job !
Thanks!
Hi sir, is it advisable to flush the radiator ? If i won’t flush it how much oil i needed , thanks 😁
Yup, you can definitely go for it! Can just cycle fluid through by disconnecting the outlet hose and topping off gradually.
How many little oil need for 2007 2l
Ford Focus auto gearbox
7 quarts is capacity.
How many litres oil need for 2009 ford focus automatic transmission 1.6 petrol
I didn't see you change the filter. Did you change filter also?
Yup! It just pulls down.
Av been haveing trouble with my reverse light on mine av changed the bulb but still not working have u eny suggestions ma friend...peace from glasgow scotland uk
Might want to check the fuse box underneath the hood, and see if the fuse is blown. There is a great fuse diagram in the manual. :)
@Richy boy Armstrong
Richy boy Armstrong
me too, same thing on my 2008. i gotta go through the fuses and find out what's the deal.
Thank you for the video, what is the torque spec forbthe transmission pan?
just checked specs - 25 ft./lbs.
Thanks
Wrong ATF. The correct ATF is Type M5 Mazda, made by Idemitsu (not the same Mercon V). Mazda sent a bulletin talking about this.
If the bulletin was sent after 2018, I didn’t get it. Lol Mercon V is spec within the manual, which is indeed now superseded.
@@MattStephensRich You should read the bulletin. Talks about Type M5 and Mercon V uses. Mazda 3 only use ATF Type M5, Mercon V may cause shift quality complaints and may even damage the transmission. Bulletin No: 05-002/13. Last issued: 03/11/2013. Mazda North American Operations.
Ah got it. Do bear in mind since this is a Ford, I kept it in recommended spec for that application. It also looks like the 4F27E transmission isn't listed within that Mazda bulletin (which is to say, not sure if Mazda uses the same transmission). Since posting this video (and I've updated in description), Ford recommends using Mercon LV for this application, which has replaced the Mercon V spec for a lot of transmission applications: www.motorcraft.com/content/dam/ford-motorcraft/en_us/motorcraft_global/products/lubricants/quick_reference_charts/automatic%20transmission%20fluids%20chart_english.pdf
WHERE did he get that great batter-box , it is better than the Ford one in the way it holds the battery down.
Came with the car 🤷🏼♂️
I've been reading that if it's a 2007 Ford Focus or earlier, you have to use Mercon V and you CANNOT USE Mercon LV as a substitute.
I'm currently having issues as I tried to run Mercon LV in my 2007 Ford Focus, when the owner's manual said to use Mercon V.
Everywhere I'm reading is saying that Mercon V and LV are NOT interchangeable.
The reason you won’t see Mercon LV in the owner’s manual is because it wasn’t invented yet, and was released in the mid-2010s. Here’s the official Ford Motorcraft transmission fluid advisory if helpful to put your mind at ease. 😊 www.motorcraft.com/content/dam/ford-motorcraft/en_us/motorcraft_global/products/lubricants/quick_reference_charts/automatic%20transmission%20fluids%20chart_english.pdf
How to litres oil
“Hey Siri, how many pints are in a liter” 😜
How many liters go into gearbox
@@slavisadundy6066 6.6 liters. I recommend measuring all fluid that comes out, and matching that amount to go back in.
Thanks
Aye bruh bruh take the fill cap off with a 8mm hex key,
Put a thin two-way plastic tube in the fill line, connect it to a hand pump, press the pump to pressurize air in the bolted transmission filter causing the oil to pump out the sealed gasket into a Y-shaped plastic line. Don’t even remove the gasket just use pressurized air. Quicker and easier. Put the Y shaped plastic line back in the fill line, but this time place the end in a bucket, fill this bucket with 2 quarts of gear oil. Use 2.1 quarts of gear oil if your vehicle was manufactured before 2001. Make sure you use ATF fluid for automatics and MTF for manual transmissions. Start hand-pumping the new fluid from the bucket back into the fill hole. They even have the hand pumps that connect directly to the gear oil bottle at AutoZone, Oreillys etc.. EASY!!
Indeed a good way to get new fluid in! One flag on automatic transmissions - you still have to drop the pan to replace the filter and clean the trap magnet.
I’ll bring more facts, grades with the letter W are intended for use at lower temperatures and are based on a maximum low temperature viscosity and a maximum borderline pumping temperature, as well as a minimum viscosity at 100C. The low temperature viscosity is measured by means of a multi-temperature version of ASTM D2602 ‘Method of Test for apparent Viscosity of Motor Oils at Low temperature using the Cold Cranking Simulator’. Viscosities measured by this method have been found to correlate with engine speeds developed during low temperature cranking. Borderline pumping temperature is measured according to ASTM D3829 ‘Standard Method for Predicting the Borderline Pumping Temperature of Engine Oil’. This provides a measure of an oils’ ability to flow to the engine oil pump inlet and provide adequate engine oil pressure during the initial stages of operation.
Oils without the letter W, intended for use at higher temperatures, are based on the viscosity at 100oC only. These are measured by ASTM D445 ‘Method of Test for Kinematic Viscosity of temperature and Opaque Liquids’.
A ‘Multi-grade’ oil is one whose low temperature viscosity and borderline temperature satisfy the requirements of one of the W grades and whose viscosity at 100oC is within the stipulated range of one-W-grades.
My pan won’t come down. Any ideas
It can be on there pretty good, would recommend using a flimsy piece of metal or plastic (paint scraper, old butter knife, etc) to gently insert in between the pan and gasket, breaking the seal. You may need to use a hammer to gently break the seal (good news is as long as you’re careful, you are not at risk of breaking any sensitive components).
Use a metal prying tool, , plastic wont do it as it could brake, and a knife could snap on you and you could hurt yourself
@@pabz.d So like the paint scraper I recommended to use in the video. ;)
You have to unscrew the fill hole first!
Did mine today, broke 2 bolts 😅😅
Atta boy!
Would you advise a flush or no? Not sure what it says in the manual. My friends is at 160k miles. Not sure if the last owner(s) did any changes or not.
Ultimately no, as you’d only eek out a pint or two more, which would have any necessarily better/improved benefit over doing this fluid swap.
With such high mileage on your vehicle and transmission, there can also sometimes be a risk of transmission slip edge due to very new fluid not having grit and other fragment components that gradually wear off in the transmission. Changing the fluid is the ultimate best practice overall!
How do you know the torque spec I can’t seem to get mine right
Tada! www.focusfanatics.com/threads/torque-specs-years-2000-2005.668033/
What section tho
I have the same car and am about to do my fluid change. How much fluid should I buy? 7 quarts?
7 quarts was indeed what I bought!
NOOOOOO DONT DO IT, you need to find the specific spec for how much goes in the pan!!!!! Unless you drain the torque converter. Start with 2 quarts let it idle till your warm and add if needed! Please don’t add 7 quarts if you DONT CHANGE YIUR TORQUE CONVERTER PLEASE SAVE YOURSELF THE 2,000$ for a new trans!!!!
Do notice I clearly state in the video to check the level often when doing the swap. For the record, the focus is still running strong to this day, on the same fluid change.
Funny I bought 4 quarts, changed the filter and gasket and she is full 😬
If you overfill you’re transmission say bye bye to your seals
how many miles did you have on the fluid that came out on this change?
60,000 miles - factory recommended interval
It could be 30,000 miles.
@fabcu if you somehow are doing “severe service”. I always air on the side of factory recommended. ☺️
i own a 07 focus would an 04 trans fit it
Most likely, just double check the part number for the transmission.
Good job
Thanks!
I would completely clean the pan and use new oil on the new gasket.
Fair enough! Biggest priority on cleaning is always filter media and/or magnetic to remove debris catch.
I know fluid expands when it gets hot. Did you check the fluid to make sure it was full?
Yes, at the end of the video ;) Ford recommendation is also to check levels with the fluid hot.
For the required ford sealer use TA-29, Ultra Gray. If you use that don't use with gasket. The method shown will leak after a while.
Gasket still in good shape today, fwiw.
@@MattStephensRich No problem using a gasket, it is easier if you ever take it off again. I was just giving the proper Ford product to use in case someone needs to know. I'm sure there are other products that work just as well.
Good video, by the way. Thanks
Definitely a good tip! Focus is in service with my brother in law’s girlfriend still lol
@@MattStephensRich great car, mine is also a 2007, zx3.
@@RoadKing05FLHRFord techs have gasket maker in their toolboxes. Much cheaper and faster than using the parts department. For diy, the gasket is kinda idiot proof for preventing leaks.
Same reason Ford doesn't add a drain plug like damn near every other manufacturer. Cheaper and faster to install at the factory.
You skipped the filter part lol
I almost missed that when doing this
Hey Matt, nice video. Is it OK to use a couple quarts of Mercon LV (for drain and refill) mixed with the Mercon V (which would be already inside the trans)? Or should I stick with buying Mercon V for this vehicle? 🤔
Yup! Mercon LV has actually superseded Mercon V in spec, and can be mixed.
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for responding!
nowhere in this. video did. he mention. what. size. the. bolts are
In the video description. :) bolts are 8 mm.
@@MattStephensRich thanks i figured it was between 8-10 mm there usually not that big. just put the gasket in pretty sttaight forward
@@elguerrodelnorte2345 Yup! Just a lot of bolts for reinstall.
@@MattStephensRich he mention the size socket used... That should tell you what size bolts they are.
What was the torque spec for the bolts for the pan? Thanks
just checked specs - 25 ft./lbs.
You left out one of the most important things: how to disconnect that lower cooler line hose.
It’s a snap connection 😊
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for the reply. I successfully got done with the job today on my 2007 SE, and here are some notes on how I did it: I found it impossible to get the connectors off, on either the radiator or the one that goes into the transmission. There's just not enough clearance to get a firm grip on the connector release tabs. And I don't have very large hands!
Also the 2007 Ford Focus shop manual has some incorrect information. It says to "press the button on the YELLOW tab" when removing the connector. However on my car, the yellow tab connector is on the TOP fitting of the oil cooler. Later in the manual directions, it shows draining the fluid from the BOTTOM cooler connection (which is where it actually comes out from).
Not sure if this is a mistake from the factory, or in the Ford manual.
It's nearly impossible to get a grip on the connectors by the radiator, because the horn is in the way. I ended up tracing the bottom hose back to the transmission. Removed the left wheel and bottom fasteners to the inner wheel well liner, and pulling it back out of the way. Somewhat better access to the connector where it goes into the transmission. But I still couldn't get it to release.
I ended up unscrewing the hose barb fitting from the transmission case (17mm box end wrench--and it rotates inside the hose fitting). Rotating the hose and fitting 180 deg counter-clockwise so it's pointing down, and then I could remove the hose from the fitting.
Also another note--the Ford Shop Manual directions say to "press the tab", and the accompanying illustration only shows one tab. However there are TWO tabs on each side to press together, to get the fitting to release.
I don't believe you should be soaking the gasket with oil. I've never removed a gasket and saw it wet. If t
Is a material like cork or paper. Wetting it with liquid does not sound ideal
I would use new fluid on the gasket, not old fluid.
new fluid is even better!
Use high viscosity mtf fluid, it has a higher boiling point so it can prevent more rust from oxidative cycles. The avg transmission fluid works best when the hydraulic valve is in the drive position 1st gear, the latest synthetic viscosities are more durable and protect the gasket longer and prevent your solenoids from recognizing electrical errors when the hydraulic valve is actuated by the solenoid, which is just an alternating current that gets controlled by the clutch (the driver) I have found people exposing higher viscosity mtf as a better resolution to a MT that sticks... and now I know why. the boiling point is higher 140 (twice as much) so it endures less corrosion
I did not use any rtv just trans fluid all around the pan and bolts tighted to 12 inches
No harm in throwing a gasket on there.
12 in pounds?
What if there's no dipstick.
You may need to drain the transmission and refill blind (basically pay super close attention to the amount of fluid going in). If you're asking for a different vehicle that doesn't have a dipstick by design, they also can have a separately sold dipstick (similar to our current Nissan Rogue).
hi, Matt which connector dısconnect TOP or BUTTOM ? Thank you
Are you talking about the flush? That is just the transmission line connections to the radiator.
@@MattStephensRich yes, I talk about flush change. But transmission radiator have 2 line. Whıch one line disconnect?
I thought the pan only held half or less of the full capacity. Did you really use the full capacity amount of ATF fluid?
The pan doesn't hold all - that is why I also showed how you can flush remaining fluid from radiator through the hoses at the end of the video.
Fundamentay disagree. Take the pan off & clean it & the magnet with brake cleaner. Insure the mating surface is shiny clean. The gasket needs to be dry with both mating surfaces.
… but the pan and magnet did come off? And for the gasket, it’s standard practice to have it wet - this is why it’s always recommended to have your oil filter gasket wet to ensure proper seal.
@@MattStephensRich yes, and whenever you replace a pan gasket, you either do it dry, or use Permatext. With today's gaskets, it's always clean, dry mating surfaces. Gospel.
Replaced the valve covers on my 10 Focus. Fel-Pro. Nothing needed.
Oil filter is different. Run your finger around the seal, so you can remove it next time
Hes new to the shop lol
Shop, personal garage = same same
Damn dude that motor runs like s***. Also I would not recommend anyone repeat this procedure on their car. For starters when you take the transmission pan loose in the case there is no drain plug you should leave a few bolts on one side still attatched so the fluid can run out and you don't have to hold the pan the entire time. Then when you take out the transmission filter use a plastic not metal scraper or putty knife to clean off all the old gasket material off that this guy left on the transmissions mating surface. Then decrease it with brake cleaner. Then use a lint free rag.. Not paper towels to wipe excess fluid from the pan then remove the magnet and spray the rest of the fluid off the pan with brake cleaner. Clean the magnet and replace. Use RTV silicone to slightly tack the gasket to the pan in the correct position(just a few dabs hereand there) Wait a half hour then replace the filter lubing the o ring with fresh atf. Take the pan in one hand and a bolt in the other and fasten the pan to the trans. Then add another and so on(dont have all 57 in the pan thats a noob move) tighten hand tigt then torque them to spec.(this guy over tightened them i saw it. ) put the amount in you took out then add to proper level. Warm up trans then check level car running in park. Repeat the process 2-3 times after driving it. Dont drain from the trans cooler you could ruin your pump.
Can't wait to see your how-to video. :)
I don't need to make one when there's plenty of other people out there that know how to change transmission fluid. Most of them are missing half of their teeth and make minimum wage. You're worth maybe $4 an hour
@@christiansotterley3805 I'll take his video over your troll ass comments, punk. At least he's trying to be helpful. Did he hit a sore spot for you or something? How did this conversation get into dental hygiene anyway? Oh, that's right! You're a troll!
My forgetful sir you forgot to show how to change the filter
It just comes right off 😊
My motor don't sound like yours
Definitely will sound different with the hood up.
Also do not put mercon v in a 2008 or newer. (Might be 2007 look it up!) They take mercon LV!! Dont use this guys videos for advice. Check out fordtechmacaloco or whatever hes a pro.
Thanks for the catch, as you're right. Seems like the title accidentally carried over from another video: title updated.
Shooter McGavin www.freep.com/in-depth/money/cars/ford/2019/07/11/ford-focus-fiesta-transmission-defect/1671198001/
of course not you dont want to ruin the already disaster of a crap DCT transmission they used in the 2008 and up ive had to replace more 08+ trans on a focus then 04+ F150's with there destructive snapring issue
Well I have 125,000 on my 2007 Focus and I have changed the transmission fluid every 10,000 mile since birth and drilled and added a drain plug. I have used from the start Amsoil Synthetic fluid; originally is was their standard red fluid but it was changed to the Blue www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/signature-series-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATLQT-EA , been running this since 50,000 no issues.. No issues with it being a good transmission but you need to change it more often and the filter, and if so inclined add an external spin on filter for maximum protection.
Just following the Ford recommended service interval. 10,000 miles is very aggressive, even for a high torque, off-road application.
@@MattStephensRich I responded to the person last night unfortunately it did not post. It was a quite lengthy post. From here in out I will save what I write in word and if the post does not happen I will re post the comment. As far as I'm concerned Hydraulics prefer to be as clean as possible. Tight tolerances is number one. Anything small getting into the valve body can cause all kinds of issues. For fun, and for my wife from Turkmenistan; had no driving experience so I purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 100K on it and the transmission fluid had not been changed, it was black. I ran 4 to 5 gallons through the transmission at the time until it came out pristine red as it should be, I added to the loop a new cooler with a fan, I also added to the loop a spin on oil/transmission filter. Needless to say is stayed perfectly red, we are not filtering these transmissions as we should. Particulate matter some say is good for a transmission, no it is not. The clutch packs will be just fine if we filter correctly. It's not being done in new 6/7/variable rate transmissions. You do have to watch pressures as a long hose will lower pressures. To large a filter will have the same impact. Do add a spin on filter if you are so inclined or have the mechanical background. It's a game changer for your automatic transmission longevity wise. Keep the hose short and a small spin on... Heat and dirty are bad for your transmission.
I would like to know what equipment you used to do this so I can get an idea of what to get
@@robclearwater4978 The drian plug for the transmission B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit Amazon link that I found, www.amazon.com/80250-Automatic-Transmission-Universal-Drain/dp/B00029WR78/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2PE0BF7OL4LSH&dchild=1&keywords=b%26m+transmission+drain+plug&qid=1622518977&sprefix=b%26m+transmission+plug%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-1 Spin on kit for the automatic filter, Perma-Cool 10678 Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kit , Amazon link .. www.amazon.com/Perma-Cool-10678-Standard-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B003N88OWW/ref=sr_1_30?dchild=1&keywords=spin+on+automatic+transmission+fluid+filter+kit&qid=1622519337&sr=8-30 , Can't say these are the best prices but at least it will give you an idea and then look on TH-cam for people that have done it before. Pretty straight forward.
In the video description 😊:
A transmission filter/gasket kit, 8 mm socket, 7 quarts of Mercon V fluid (or Mercon LV, as Ford has updated specs), and a catch pan.
Never get fluid all over the new gasket it will leak. And use sealant on it
Using the transmission fluid actually helps make the new seal, just the same as using motor oil to lubricate your oil filter gasket. And indeed, you can also use a liquid sealer - I just used the gasket that came with the filter kit in this video.
This guy watched a youtube video on how to do it then did it wrong and acted like hes the pro lol. Watching you strip out the aluminum threads on the trans made my eyes hurt lol maybe your next video can be on how to use a tap and die to fix those threads lmao
huh funny, because the threads seemed just fine.
A thread full of people who have no idea what they're doing just like you
@@christiansotterley3805 If I wanted to hear an asshole speak I would've farted!
FACTS 🤣🤣 unscrew 6 bolts, and drain out the fluid into a pan lmfao let it tilt, end of story
@@BeastmodeBeats Just finished a 2010 job, that freakin pan was stuck on there. Left two bolts, loosened about two turns, in at the front and then had to PRY on the pan in several places to get it to break loose. DO NOT pry in one place only or you may bend the pan. Be prepared for the flood when it breaks loose. I also recommend starting the bolts by hand-no power tools-as those are very small shank bolts and it would be a pain in the keester to repair the threads. BTW this particular Focus took 3.5 quarts of LV fluid.
ez pz
Word
Clean your Motor its nasty. Lol
I mean, that's what 175,000 miles will do lol
What kind of transmission fluid did you use?
Mercon V was used in the video, but you can also use Mercon LV that has superseded the spec!