Love your videos. Your a good teacher. Y'all make me want to move to Alaska and come work for ya, I'm a journeyman toolmaker myself that's more comfortable using manual machines. My first shop job was setting up 3 little Traub screw machines, 3 Brown and Sharp screw machines, they had the War Production Board brass tag on those machines, and two manual turret lathes. Then they stuck me in the drill press department setting up the gang drill presses that had 4 heads on a table that was like 6 or 7 foot long. We had like a dozen of those tables, plus automatic drill presses set up for castings. Plus I set up the big horizontal and vertical mills for the castings we made. Then they taught me how to finish grind the shafts we made into little spurr and pinion gears. Then after that place got bought out in 97, I got a job in a shop that offered an apprenticeship program, so already knowing most of the machines, I added the math and science of toolmaking to my resume. Heat treatment is fascinating to me. Plus selecting the right material for the application. I love toolmaking, and your shop reminds me of a lot of the old places I've worked for, delivered to, been farmed out too.... Keep up the great educational videos. Especially the old school equipment.
I work on the shorter sister of such a lathe daily, Chinese. I got a Pratt & Bernard 250mm👈🏻(insulting to the Brits🤣😂), 4 jaw gripped in the standard 3 jaw supplied with that lathe. Clocking on a 4 jaw is like breathing to me. SALUTE to another Master Artisan on TH-cam & thank you for passing on your priceless experience, advice, work & time🤘🏻
What a fantastic video, so informative, I’m getting ready for retirement, My heroes have always been you big time machinist guys, that can make something out of nothing, and anything out of something! I bought a small lathe and mill that I play with, think you solved my problem with this video. You’re the best keep the videos coming! Thank-you!
if your center is only off a little you can add a thin piece of paper behind the morse taper before you put the tool in and kick it forward the thickness of the paper, this works to kick it the other way also. I like to use nylon or nylatron for the steady rests, I make sleeves that slide over the rollers and can be removed without tools. The nylon doesn't make marks and conforms to the work very well but you need oil or coolant when your turning.
Some lathes have ground and hand fitted tail sticks with no adjustment. I just finished grinding and scraping a Hardinge tail stock for a machine we acquired at work. It was .004 to high so I figured that the tail stock was obtained at a different time than the machine.
Particularly valuable information on using a steady rest. Couldn't do it better myself! There needs to be a Vevor Mic installed for fine adjustments though. Hehe. Thanks for sharing! Ken
Thanks for making these videos - I've learned a few things from you ! I have a 1640 Nardini lathe. The steady rest on it, has wheels or another set with brass ends. The ones with bearing wheels look to be canted 5 ~ 7 degrees from perp. to the work piece. Can you comment ?
I always give that far adjustment on the steady rest a reach around while the lathe is running. I’m going to stop doing that, as it seems like a good way to get sucked into the lathe.
Used a lathe with tailstock .2mm higher than headstock/chuck, and a warped bed, it broke my heart, a Dean Smyth& Grace, the so called Rolls Royce of lathes. A disaster of a thing.
No of this aplies to multiple hundred pound parts as they droop to much to turn on without the steady rest already set or a center pre drilled on the end. For a heavy piece yoy need to attach an indicator to your center and indicate the end of the stock in with using the steady rest.
Turn the chuck more than 180 deg?? In aviation terms thats. Like saying let's do a quick 360 and get the hell out of here!! 😮 Kind regards from John Spargo in Cape Town
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Good morning everyone hope everyone is having a blessed day
Love your videos. Your a good teacher.
Y'all make me want to move to Alaska and come work for ya, I'm a journeyman toolmaker myself that's more comfortable using manual machines.
My first shop job was setting up 3 little Traub screw machines, 3 Brown and Sharp screw machines, they had the War Production Board brass tag on those machines, and two manual turret lathes.
Then they stuck me in the drill press department setting up the gang drill presses that had 4 heads on a table that was like 6 or 7 foot long. We had like a dozen of those tables, plus automatic drill presses set up for castings.
Plus I set up the big horizontal and vertical mills for the castings we made.
Then they taught me how to finish grind the shafts we made into little spurr and pinion gears.
Then after that place got bought out in 97, I got a job in a shop that offered an apprenticeship program, so already knowing most of the machines, I added the math and science of toolmaking to my resume.
Heat treatment is fascinating to me. Plus selecting the right material for the application.
I love toolmaking, and your shop reminds me of a lot of the old places I've worked for, delivered to, been farmed out too....
Keep up the great educational videos. Especially the old school equipment.
I work on the shorter sister of such a lathe daily, Chinese. I got a Pratt & Bernard 250mm👈🏻(insulting to the Brits🤣😂), 4 jaw gripped in the standard 3 jaw supplied with that lathe. Clocking on a 4 jaw is like breathing to me. SALUTE to another Master Artisan on TH-cam & thank you for passing on your priceless experience, advice, work & time🤘🏻
Learned more good stuff today, Thank You
Nice Poreba! Solid Machine, at work we have a Poreba TPK 80 5M Build in November 1979.
Such great videos you guys put on here! Thanks so much!
What a fantastic video, so informative, I’m getting ready for retirement, My heroes have always been you big time machinist guys, that can make something out of nothing, and anything out of something! I bought a small lathe and mill that I play with, think you solved my problem with this video. You’re the best keep the videos coming! Thank-you!
Great instructional video. Thanks for you help. Paul, Scotland
wonderful information John, thank you from Florida, Paul
if your center is only off a little you can add a thin piece of paper behind the morse taper before you put the tool in and kick it forward the thickness of the paper, this works to kick it the other way also. I like to use nylon or nylatron for the steady rests, I make sleeves that slide over the rollers and can be removed without tools. The nylon doesn't make marks and conforms to the work very well but you need oil or coolant when your turning.
Very interesting. I never experienced it. Good to know. Thanks
Some lathes have ground and hand fitted tail sticks with no adjustment. I just finished grinding and scraping a Hardinge tail stock for a machine we acquired at work. It was .004 to high so I figured that the tail stock was obtained at a different time than the machine.
Particularly valuable information on using a steady rest. Couldn't do it better myself! There needs to be a Vevor Mic installed for fine adjustments though. Hehe. Thanks for sharing! Ken
What causes a shaft to come out of a chuck when using steady rest??? Thanks so much for these videos.
@davehiggins5903 Here, this followup video is for you: th-cam.com/video/hXN6F315k9w/w-d-xo.html
-Cameraman
Thanks for making these videos - I've learned a few things from you ! I have a 1640 Nardini lathe. The steady rest on it, has wheels or another set with brass ends. The ones with bearing wheels look to be canted 5 ~ 7 degrees from perp. to the work piece. Can you comment ?
Awesome thanks 🎉
I always give that far adjustment on the steady rest a reach around while the lathe is running. I’m going to stop doing that, as it seems like a good way to get sucked into the lathe.
Used a lathe with tailstock .2mm higher than headstock/chuck, and a warped bed, it broke my heart, a Dean Smyth& Grace, the so called Rolls Royce of lathes. A disaster of a thing.
Nice machine
Do you have a overview and how to use this particular lathe? :-)
Do you have a video on how to use Ways oil on the Ways? If so add the link to this comment 😀
So would a glass blowers lathe and a G smith's lathe have live tail stocks?
No of this aplies to multiple hundred pound parts as they droop to much to turn on without the steady rest already set or a center pre drilled on the end. For a heavy piece yoy need to attach an indicator to your center and indicate the end of the stock in with using the steady rest.
Turn the chuck more than 180 deg?? In aviation terms thats. Like saying let's do a quick 360 and get the hell out of here!! 😮 Kind regards from John Spargo in Cape Town
Give yourself a failing grade for leaving the chuck key in the chuck. Accident waiting to happen.