Lots of good info in both the video and the comments. One important detail for a technical school: You’re saying “tension” when you’re pushing and creating pressure. Tension is the pulling action as with a chain or rope.
Excellent video. Looking at purchasing a PM1030V lathe and trying to do a little side hustle and information like this is valuable since I am not a machinists. Much appreciated.
Agree with the first part but when you get steady and shaft into place we were taught to align the end of shaft with tailstock barrel outer diameter using smaller ball jointed magnetic base lever type indicator fixed on end of shaft, rotate shaft by hand with stylus on outer barrel diameter. Far far more accurate and relevant and bear in mind centre line and tailstock always have to align.
Good video but I never understand why no one covers how to actually dial a long part into the steady while its in the machine. this method is good but very rarely can you do it. especially in repair work on the lather. also this method is pretty much worthless in the brass pad type steady rests, as its hard to pickup the "feel" on a solid pad. You should also mention that you always put shop rool between the work and the brass pads to "insulate it from chewing on the part.
On solid pads, which, if I can, I modify with bearings, I use a half thousandths thickness piece of shim between the pad and the work. Rolling the work moves the shim back and forth. Taking that out and just touching the adjustment screw is all I need at that point.
If you do a rough estimate of where the end of the shift should sit on the two lower rollers, measure end diameter off tailstock outer barrel radius up against the tailstock end. This will get it to within 1mm of center. Now at this stage, sit a smaller lever type dial indicator and base onto the end of your shift and rotate the shift by hand with the stylus end on tailstock barrel outer diameter and adjust steady legs till both run true. Now lock two lower legs in place and bring down upper screw of steady to touch and tighten in place.
If the bar is not bent, I just gently tap it with a soft hammer until true. Make sure the indicator is retracted, you don't want to damage it while you hammer it. Once true in both ends, the middle should be true also. If not, the bar is bent. Also, after the right end (hanging end) is true, go back and make sure the chuck end is still true. You may have to repeat the procedure a couple of times until both ends are running true.
If enough of this type of work is expected it would be worthwhile to make a large bell center ( inverted cone) for the tail stock out of mild steel. Assuming the face of the bar is relatively square with the OD with no burrs this tool will get you close enough for most machining. The center cone must be concentric to the tailstock center line.
Alignment of the rest was not done in the "x" direction...the center could have been offset in either direction parallel to the cross slide. Although, yes, pretty close due to the setup with the short piece. I put a mag base and test indicator on the chuck, contacting the work out near the rest. Rotate chuck so the indicator contact point is near me, zero it, rotate chuck 180 deg to back side, read with a mirror, it should read zero. If not, make adjustments. I take the reading when the contact point is at top with a grain of salt, as the indicator arm will flex down just a bit in this position due to gravity, which is almost irrelevant in the front & back positions. If in doubt about the effect in the vertical position, touch it lightly...even a gram or two will deflect even a rigid base, and the indicator weighs a few grams. So, the surface gauge/indicator is good for the vertical deflection. ("Y") Remember that, no matter the misalignment of the steady rest, it will not cause "runout", except when viewed from the point of view of the chuck. Not relative to the lathe bed, or you.
Lots of good info in both the video and the comments. One important detail for a technical school: You’re saying “tension” when you’re pushing and creating pressure. Tension is the pulling action as with a chain or rope.
Great video! I just made a steady rest and have never used/setup or touched one before
Great video, very educational for me.
Thanks for sharing.
Very good. I never thought to make one of those tools, but now I’ll make a few diameters.
Great video. I’ve never given thought to making a setting tool!!!
Excellent video. Looking at purchasing a PM1030V lathe and trying to do a little side hustle and information like this is valuable since I am not a machinists. Much appreciated.
Love your videos, they are always good
Nice set-up tool 👍 Great explaination on the Process.
Great introduction to the steady rest. : )
your videos are wonderful. wish I lived near by to come and take classes.......best wishes from Orlando, Florida, Paul
Agree with the first part but when you get steady and shaft into place we were taught to align the end of shaft with tailstock barrel outer diameter using smaller ball jointed magnetic base lever type indicator fixed on end of shaft, rotate shaft by hand with stylus on outer barrel diameter. Far far more accurate and relevant and bear in mind centre line and tailstock always have to align.
Great explanation. Very informative video!
great video... thank you very much for sharing !
just perfct done!
thank you. very helpful!
Good video but I never understand why no one covers how to actually dial a long part into the steady while its in the machine. this method is good but very rarely can you do it. especially in repair work on the lather. also this method is pretty much worthless in the brass pad type steady rests, as its hard to pickup the "feel" on a solid pad. You should also mention that you always put shop rool between the work and the brass pads to "insulate it from chewing on the part.
On solid pads, which, if I can, I modify with bearings, I use a half thousandths thickness piece of shim between the pad and the work. Rolling the work moves the shim back and forth. Taking that out and just touching the adjustment screw is all I need at that point.
If you do a rough estimate of where the end of the shift should sit on the two lower rollers, measure end diameter off tailstock outer barrel radius up against the tailstock end. This will get it to within 1mm of center. Now at this stage, sit a smaller lever type dial indicator and base onto the end of your shift and rotate the shift by hand with the stylus end on tailstock barrel outer diameter and adjust steady legs till both run true. Now lock two lower legs in place and bring down upper screw of steady to touch and tighten in place.
Great Job
Really useful! Thanks
what is the procedure for aligning the machining end of stock, if it is NOT indicating the same as back by the head stock?
If the bar is not bent, I just gently tap it with a soft hammer until true. Make sure the indicator is retracted, you don't want to damage it while you hammer it. Once true in both ends, the middle should be true also. If not, the bar is bent. Also, after the right end (hanging end) is true, go back and make sure the chuck end is still true. You may have to repeat the procedure a couple of times until both ends are running true.
If enough of this type of work is expected it would be worthwhile to make a large bell center ( inverted cone) for the tail stock out of mild steel. Assuming the face of the bar is relatively square with the OD with no burrs this tool
will get you close enough for most machining. The center cone must be concentric to the tailstock center line.
I put the cutting tool against the end of workpiece. If it is cutting without me moving the tool, the shaft is coming out of the chuck.
Alignment of the rest was not done in the "x" direction...the center could have been offset in either direction parallel to the cross slide. Although, yes, pretty close due to the setup with the short piece.
I put a mag base and test indicator on the chuck, contacting the work out near the rest. Rotate chuck so the indicator contact point is near me, zero it, rotate chuck 180 deg to back side, read with a mirror, it should read zero. If not, make adjustments.
I take the reading when the contact point is at top with a grain of salt, as the indicator arm will flex down just a bit in this position due to gravity, which is almost irrelevant in the front & back positions. If in doubt about the effect in the vertical position, touch it lightly...even a gram or two will deflect even a rigid base, and the indicator weighs a few grams.
So, the surface gauge/indicator is good for the vertical deflection. ("Y")
Remember that, no matter the misalignment of the steady rest, it will not cause "runout", except when viewed from the point of view of the chuck. Not relative to the lathe bed, or you.
I note nobody bothers to lubricate the equipment.
Nice lesson. Thanks for the look.