DODGE GRAND CARAVAN BRAKE PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR QUICK TIP!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- In today's video, I just wanted to share a quick tip for anyone who is having a problem with the brake pedal fading all the way to the floor board. In the video I share with you a customers experience with unsuccessfully attempting to fix the problem themselves by replacing the brake master cylinder, bleeding the brake system multiple times and finally replacing the abs control module and hydraulic unit. I will explain to you how a simple caliper adjustment can remedy this problem and save you time.
Thank you for watching!
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Dude this video just saved me a loooot of money. I know this is an old video, but if your still out there man. You have no idea how much I appreciate this one. Top notch Brother. Thanks again, and God Bless.
Brake pedal 'feel' ( pedal height) always comes from the rear adjustment. On vehicles equipped with screw in type rear calipers, you DON'T turn them in all of the way! You turn them in until there is a slight drag on the pads. It takes a bit of trial and error. Also it is very important that the stud on the inboard pad engages the caliper piston slot. This way there is constant pressure on that pad, and the piston can move out as needed for wear on the pads. Learned this way back in the early 90s on GM W cars. Still applies today.
The trick to adjusting the gap on these types of calipers after brake pad replacement is to yank on the handbrake lever while pumping the brake pedal. Sometimes it takes up to 20-25 pumps. It's so the piston screws back out the same time you depress the pedal and it will adjust itself.
what do you mean? The caravan does not have a hand brake; It has a pedal.
Close the gap on the brake caliper I'm going to try this later today on the exact same year and problem car.
Thanks guys! I just bled the brakes last week on my 2016 Grand Caravan. Gonna fix this now and back out the rear pistons to a reachable distance.
There are other screw-type piston calipers that DONT do this (like Nissin and Akebono). Now I know that if I ever have this feeling (as brake pads wear down over time), the pedal feel can drop too.
Why pedal is sunk is because all vehicles brake design is depending on applying brake at the rear wheels first then front (hence double piston master cylinder), that's intended for better breaking stability and redundancy whenever one piston/brake line fails, system will be operable whith a single stroke at 50% reduced power plus increased pedal travel
Good job Eric
Great info there! I did the rear brakes about 4 years ago and I know exactly what he is referring to. If you don't have the special tool that he mentions in the video it can be a real SOB to turn that cylinder in and out. It can be done with needle nose pliers but its not as easy as turning a bolt in and out as you may think. Fortunate for me I did move the cylinder all the way up to the pad..but not because I knew this would happen, it just seemed to be the right thing to do.. now I know why you need to do this and I'm glad for the info.. thanks ADVANCED!
Found more detailed description of the reason for this problem:
All rear calipers with an integral emergency brake use screw-in retractable pistons. I think Kelsey-Heyes invented them. This has been the case for 30 years on everything from 1LE Camaro to 1982 Lincoln Continental. The most common error made by mechanics causing the pads not to touch is failing to properly adjust the pistons when replacing the pads. If the pistons are screwed in (retracted) too far, they may fail to self-adjust. The piston needs to be screwed in just far enough to slide the caliper onto the bracket and pads with some force. If the pads are screwed in too far, the caliper will just flop around and the piston will not move far enough to pinch the pads against the rotor. The emergency brake mechanism results in limited piston travel. The force of the piston pinching the pads is what readjusts the mechanism. It the piston can't clamp the rotor, then it will never adjust. Basically you are supposed to fully retract the pads and then snug them up until it's tough to install the caliper. This will give you some friction or rub for the first mile or two and then the pad burnishes off and everything is good to go.
I fixed this exact issue on my grand caravan today - after replacing the master cylinder! Thanks for the very useful tip!
Just had a local shop tell me I needed to fork over $1000 to replace the hydraulics... Thank you for saving me a lot of money!
I have had this exact issue happen to me a few years ago after I replaced the brakes on one of these vans, drove me crazy for a little while until I realized the issue with the piston not pumping out. I used a micrometer to measure the stack up of the pads and rotor combo then found a socket with the same measurement. I then use the socket as a gauge to set the piston depth anytime I replace the rear brakes on this model.
Definitely saved stress on my end. My wife and kids are in an 08, and I just had the same symptoms. And checking out the rear end, same thing you described. Much appreciation for this niche situation.
So I had the same problem with my pedal but there was rattling coming from the rear, I had assumed perhaps a bad shock... Well before firing the parts cannon at it I lifted the back and started inspecting. Shock was fine, rotors shot and the right rear caliper had that gap and lots of wobble/play. Obviously someone has done the rear pads prior and left the gouged rotors but that gap and wobble seemed odd. Glad I checked here! Very helpful!
Your video just helped us on a 2012 Town and Country. The left rear piston was nearly 1/8" away from the inside pad. After manual and power bleeding we still had pedal fade. Again, your video showed us what we hadn't noticed. The problem arose after new pad installation. Thank you!
That did the trick! Thanks for posting it!
I replaced passenger side rear rotors and pads last night and all was fine, no air in the lines. Did exactly same procedure on drivers side this morning and pedal was going to the floor.
Knew it wasn't the master cylinder as it was replaced 6 months ago. Thanks Again! Cheers!
Thanks man. Seen the gap when I took the calipers off the back. Didn't think to screw out the calipers. Thanks save me a lot of hassles
I learned something new. Thank you for sharing.
Great design! The engineers must be so proud!
Dodge is the WORST! I have a 2006 Grand Caravan, but it was inherited. I love the stow and go seating, and the room it offers. But these are without a doubt, the WORST minivans made. You would think after 121 years, Dodge would figure out what works and what doesn't and at least try to make good vehicles. This particular issue could cause accidents and deaths, so why not just use calipers that don't have this issue? I honestly think Dodge is trying to get people killed.
I don't know if this works on newer cars. In the 90's I was tought when a vehicle comes in like this, to go slow in reverse then stop the vehicle using the parking brake, repeat a few times until the regular brake pedal firms up. This might only work on drum brakes, as I was trying to fix this issue in a pickup with drum rears when an older tech taught me this trick. Thanks for the video!
Had the similar issue with my wife's 2010 grand caravan 6 months ago. Thanks for the video, it will help someone else for sure. Difference was our brakes were replaced 6 years ago, and now this issue came up. I did the same adjustment and brakes are firm!
Ran into a similar problem on a Ford. Replaced the rear pads and then the rear brakes were not engaging. Spun the rear pistons out a bit and they started working. It was at the end of the day and frustrating, but an easy fix.
Wouldn't just applying the parking brake a few times adjust that piston out?
@@scotthoskins2545 tried that
Yes, change the caliper!! I have a van with this exact problem, it was on both rear calipers.
Thanks for the tip, I was dealing with the same issue after I did rear brakes in my 2010 VW Routan (Caravan)
I subscribed cause this video 07 Durango having same trouble I was stumped beating head off wall god bless you cause this saved me thank you love the videos they are awesome to have in a toolbox
Thanks a million for this video!! I got a call from my boss last night. They are having the same issue on a caravan. I would be willing to bet this is what the problem is. I will find out in a couple hours when I get there!! Thanks!
God bless you. I actually forgot about doing this dang it. I got the little special tool. Just snaps onto 3/8 drive socket wrench.
This is why I love You Tube. I just bought this van and it randomly does it where the pedal goes all the way down. Was thinking it the brake booster but now I will check this first. Hopefully this is it and it saves me from going down the rabbit hole.
Did you find out if this Was this your problem? I'm experiencing similar experience with my '10 T&C
Also curious- did this solve your issue?
Very popular on Asian models, the piston will eventually pump itself out but not before the next stoplight to be sure, normally people who do not understand just pump the brakes before the need to stop and it will eventually clear up over time and no reason why, this is it, thanks for another great video.
Great video with a "not expected" solution.
Dang, I had a similar experience after doing rear brakes on a Jetta. Fortunately I didn't even consider the MC or ABS to be the source of the problem. Sliders were all fine. After a little head scratching I realized that the automatic adjustment mechanism on the rear disc brakes ironically requires at least partial contact with the rotor. If the rotor is too far out, beyond one pedal stroke, it can't automatically adjust. When I spun the slave cylinder out to position the pads closer to the rotor, the problem solved itself.
I have a 2013 doing this,I will check on the gap.Thank you for doing this video.
Just changed my brakes and encountered the same issue. Saved me heaps of time, thanks!!!!
i had the same symptoms on our work van after removing all the brake pads and cleaning the corrosion off the bracket and pads to free them up. i did turn the rear pistons in for easier assembly and then had the spongy brake feeling, after I reinspected the system for leaks and didn't find any. will check this today for gap
Thanks for this video. I have a car that has the same issue and I'm going back to check and see if I have the same problem. Thanks so much.
I just watched this and know this is my issue. Thank you so much.
I run into the same issue with a customers van thanks so much for the information. Big help.
Gotta say thanks a million for this video on a customers 2008 grand caravan I replaced the brake master cylinder and bled the system for like 3 hours to get all of the strong coffee brown fluid flushed out and hopefully clear the still soft pedal issue and no dice! Saw your video and sure enough the rear calipers were out of adjustment brakes feel really nice now, thanks again!
Awesome! I’m glad I could help!
Thank you... 🙏 I've been SO frustrated with these brakes... Glad I watched your video... 👍🏻⚡
Wow ty brother for saving me from Financial misfortune I have a 2014 that I redid All the brakes on in a few months later the pedal goes to the floor I'm not saying this is my problem but excellent video quick simple and to the point
Crazy how something can be so simple to fix but throw off a lot of mechanics to find.. thanks for sharing. I might have to think about this problem because I just bought a 2019 dodge minivan. Thanks
Thanks a lot i will try this, and by the way that bug is a supervisor bug since it was just standing there and watching 😆
That is a great tip! Thank you for this one...love everything you do!
That tip could save hours of frustration. 👍❤️👍
Thank you my 09 journey petal to floor and slow to stop really no petal without pumping. But replaced master.hoses .pads etc definitely have to check calibers for gap. THANK YOU
Super point. Good tip on IATN
Great tip. The bug is a cottonwood borer (a beetle). The scientific name for it is Plectrodera scalator. It feeds on cottonwood trees.
not people
what?
I was ready to change the Mc and all brake pads on my sisters van but I’ll try this first!! Thanks for sharing!!!
This video help me alot I had same problem and by looking at your video I resolved my problem. Thanks alot
All the little quirks wow, This helped me Thanks Eric. Nasty looking beetle, thank God their not house size. Bless you my brother.
Thanks, brother. For the location of the front floor jack point, as well. Well done.
Thank u. I’m about to replace the master cylinder on a costumers car with the same symptoms. I’ll check this first cause the whole brake system looks good. U might be saving me a headache. Thx.
I was absolutely loosing my mind with the same issue after doing rotors and pads. This video saved me from losing so much more time and heaches
That's it! I had to much gap between the pad and piston thanks for this.
I know that I am late in comments - but this is an example of a simple remedy holds true to this day in fixing. Thank you for the link and keep up the good work. S#it I remember the old school stuff these days its all electronics brother.
!!!!! The same thing I had on a 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan -- the same exact conditions - the same exact find and repair. Thanks a lot - your new friend Norm TAMPA
Thank you so much for this tip. Been trying to figure this issue out on my landlords van. Whoever did the brake job turned the piston all the way in to where low pedal pressure. Your tip worked. Im not a tech but work on my own vehicles. The more I can learn the better. Thank you again.
Glad it helped
No shit ! .....I just did my 13 caravan today and I have that exact problem ...pedal goes to the floor, the caliper has some sloppiness to it , bleeding didnt help ..I didnt replace the master yet , but thought it may be bad ....i turned the piston all the way in so I'll be backing it out couple turns, hope it works ...thanx again tho ... cool video I subbed
I want to thank you for this tip.Saved me lot of time with this tip.Thanks.
Glad I found this tip. Going to do rear brakes on my 2012 Caravan this weekend.
So glad I found this video! I have been fighting my brakes for a few days now and have even tried a second master cylinder. I will be looking into this first thing in the morning!!!!!
We really like the Chrysler/Dodge with the 3.8L V6. Very solid drivetrain and we easily got over 200K out of the first two and both are still on the road with new owners. Saying they’re terrible vehicles as some of the commenters above have done is not accurate. We now have a 2008. Same squishy brake problem. Two things: If your rear brake pads have a pin that lines up in the piston groove they will not self adjust as that pin prevents the piston from spinning out to make contact with the back of the pad. As other have noted get pads without that pin.. somebody said they would grind it off - I have not tried that. Or do as the video suggests reposition your caliber piston to meet the back of the pad. Second tip - on our 2008 T&C there is a small button on the left side of the steering column that allows you to adjust brake firmness to your liking. Not sure all T&Cs have this feature but we didn’t even know the button was there until I was poking around under the dash one day. It has a foot on brake stamped on it. Try that too. Our brakes firmed up a little but not like when you adjust that rear piston. Dealers are either ignorant of the root cause or scamming people into expensive ABS modules and other parts etc. over this issue.
That button on left side of tilt steering is to adjust peddles back for short drivers.. and forward for tall drivers.
Thank you Eric. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2011 Grand Caravan. Same problems. First place I had it serviced, they replaced master cylinder, ABS pump, front and back pads, 3 calipers ($1649.00). Brought it back a second time. Still could not figure it out. Brought it to another mechanic. He bled all the calipers. Had no other solution. Brakes still go the floor.
I cycled the parking brake about 5 times. To see what it would do. Went for test drive and the brakes worked perfect and tight now. Everything seems back to normal.
Up here on the west side of Canada...you have no idea how many of those calipers actually just fail on those vans. The parking brake mechanism in saltier climates just fails and they get to be quite fun.
I know this is a year old but here goes. While I'm going through this with a 2012...one of many issues. There was a you tube video out about the top 6 or 7 weird issues with the dodgebgrand caravans. The one thing I remember is that they made a break kit for this van because the factory set isn't right for the load..I guess to much weight I am imagining.. that was my take out of it. So IF this doesn't help you can buy a new kit for the breaks specially made for this "EXTRA" vehicle.🙄
Thank you for sharing your experience.god bless you.
I think I'm having this exact problem after doing rear pads, thanks for the idea of what to check for
Thank.. I was scratching my head.. u gave me some valuable knowledge
great video . never ran into this before . thanks for savings me a ton of time and money .
Thank you so much for sharing! Going to have my mechanic try it now
Oh man. I’m having the same issue with my 2010 Routan. I replaced rear brakes last year. Definitely going to pull the rears tomorrow to adjust the piston out. I’ll update tomorrow!
The VW Routan is a Dodge Van made for VW!
@@morganwaasdorp6625 I know. That’s why I was here….
did adjusting the piston work?
THIS WAS VERY HELPFUL
Definitely a great reminder! Gracias! 🙌
Thanks having similar issue with an 02 Town and country I purchased a couple of months ago will try this in the am instead of switching mc again
Thanks for the video. I was having the exact same problem.
Thank you for this. Having your emergency brake on while driving will do the same thing.
What does this mean? You just drive around with the emergency brake on?
Thanks for video,same problem on 2010 town and country, good pedal now,new subscriber as of today
Glad it helped
Thanks for sharing this information.
Absolutely amazing. I wasted almost 1000 on a mechanic that didnt fix my 08 caravan took me 45 mins and now i can stop!!! Thank you soo much
Awesome! This is why I made this video. To help people in this situation. Thank you for watching!
yes sir!!! love those who FIX there problems
Helped alot my exact problem
Excellent answer to a confounding problem. I am in the process of diagnosing a similar prob on my daughters 2013 Dodge Journey. Extremely low pedal but solid at the last bit of travel. Jacked up the rear, applied the the E braked and found , as you did, the right rear could be spun by hand.
With rear brake shoes I would have checked the self adjusting hardware and then adjusted the brakes up tight. Was at a lost with the rear brake calipers. They are supposed to self adjust with normal driving, forward or reverse. Spent a couple of hours applying the brakes with no change.
Then I found your quick tip. Tomorrow I will spin out the piston and see hope for positive results.
When I changed pads last the piston was a bear to spin in. So I am wondering if the self adjusting mechanism is frozen. I will soak it the penetrating oil and work it in and out and the adjust it as tight as possible.
On a separate subject, the caravans we use for delivery vehicles at the USPS have reoccurring issues with brake fluid leaking from the E brake lever /shaft that enters the rear of the brake caliper. The seal leaks ever so slightly but just enough to allow air into the system. Thanks again for an informative video.
I have a dodge journey 2013 I changed the pads myself 6 months ago and it was working like perfect, but I decided to do some uber so it needed saftey at the shop after inspection there was a leak rear caliper so the tech changed both rear calipers with refurbished ones now after leav3te shop 5 days later I have sinking pedal therfore I will check what you said because I feel there's something wrong it goes to the floor sometimes and I have to pump multiple times to build pressure
Thanks a lot, that was really helpful 👍
Beeld the brakes on my customers car 3 the times. Found out that a few e brake press and the seal around the bolt the the e brake cable was leaking on rear. Replace caliper then rebleed no leaks drove it and then pressed the e brake a few times other side started drop also. Replaced it also.
Excellent problem to share. Uncommon!!
I traded-in my 2007 Hyundai Azera in Jan because of this type of problem. I wonder it the low\soft pedal was caused by the same loose back pads??? I never know.
this saved me putting on a caliper - thank you very much :)
Very helpful , thanks for taking the time to share .
My friend I suggest you to turn off the music on your shop when you are recording your videos because TH-cam can block your video due to copyright infringement. Nice information. 👍
Same issue is happening with my van, thank you.
Nice video and some great advice.
I couldn't comment for some reason, except as a reply... Anyhow, I got 2013 and they had to be pushed in not turned... only did front atm, but self bleed no go, manual no go... I'm stumped, unless maybe it's a bad caliper... driver side pads were really worn, passenger looked halfway between new and used...
Thanks for that diagnostic website.
You have a bad distortion seal and or piston in the brake caliper.
Thank you, we're about to change the master cylinder on a high mileage 2010 Town and Country with the brake pedal going to the floor, if that doesn't fix it, we know where else to look!
I am having this exact problem and the more I think about it the more I'm think this. Because I was able to sink one of the calipers back all the way and struggled with the other they are now uneven. I think I have to back off the one that is all the way in, and possibly bleed the breaks a bit. This video was eye-opening and possibly saved quite a bit of hassle. I will update tomorrow. Thank you.
I have not run against this problem yet, but that was great info, I wonder if there are any other vehicles out there that have had that type of issue!
thanks man it's really helped me out, I was facing the same issue! 👍
thanks so much!!
Gonna try it now, on a 1994 Dodge Caravan. So far, tried bleeding brakes, but no brakes yet. Hoping this works.
Omg I'm going threw the SAME exact problem!! I've put almost $1,000 into my van and have to push the pedal to floor and pray it stops. Thank you so much I'm trying this in the morning I surly hope this does the trick!! Thank you!!
So this is a problem caused by corrosion due to road salt? This piston should normally self adjust as the pads wear,correct?
Another vote for IATN. A great resource for techs.