When this vid was released, it introduced me to Vallejo paints with the same recommended colors. That same paints i'd bought are still in working order after all these years. Thank you for introducing me to Vallejo paints. Love them
Keeping the paint thin and watered down for the sake of transparency as indicated in this video, is a must, especially when painting faces. I might add, that keeping the paint free of any premature drying that might add the tiny balls of dried paint that lend an undesirable "ruddy" complexion on the figure, should also be emphasized. To this end, a retarder can be very helpful, which makes the paint and application more forgiving. Needless to say, one's palette and brushes must by pristine and free of any dried and loose paint matter as well.
April 18, 2018---Getting back into modeling after 15 years, but going for 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas. When I first started modeling ('74), tried painting a figure and it had the popped/bug eyed look if you know what I mean. Then started doing 28mm fantasy figures years later, which after more than one, started turning out well. Thing is, never did the shadowing. Thanks to your video, ready to give it another whack.
I truly enjoy your video's, you are very informative and easy to follow. I am a true amateur and have the biggest clumsiness hands. I have the whole set up, basic that is. I just have been watching videos to get to get started. one thing I have not seen that maybe companies should try. take a basic model, armot, planr, figure. Then have some instructional videos to go along with it. Might help some people find a passion they miss or something for them to get into. Just my 2 cents worth. Please keep the videos coming Master, as this grasshopper is a sponge trying to soak up knowledge. Cheers mate, and have a pint for me..
Thank you! At last someone who knows the truth...can't tell you how many comments I have had saying it was Valleggio or Valley-ho etc. etc. I try to tell these people I speak Spanish and know the owner of the company and how he pronounces his own surname....but will they listen! It's a pedantic correct pronunciation campaign I am happily running solo on You Tube!
+Scale War Machines will do.. need to buy paint. I have a tamiya 88 mm anti tank gun I am looking to build into a dio,on the eastern front. The figures will need quite a bit of work before I can think of painting,but I also have some tamiya Africa corp figures I will be practicing on. thanks again!
This video is excellent and I use it for reference many times. Could you make it again with another figure (or figures - maybe one for each of the main armies of wwii) for the two main scales 1:35 and 1:72 and keep it simple and step by step as in this video. Thank you very much!
Great video. Would you recommend painting the faces separately and then gluing to the body once everything is painted? Or assemble the 1/35 figure first then paint?
To be honest it seems easier to paint the face/head separately then attach. If all moulded in one, we still find it better to get the face right first then do the uniform.
Whats the story with Vallejo paints? I have just used there Model colour 70846 for the base on a Hornets head. After leaving to dry for four hours I picked it up, rubbed my finger over it to see how smooth it was and the paint just rubbed straight off!
It's probably some chemical residue on the resin. Always degrease and clean the piece you paint. Ideally, use a Vallejo Surface Primer first to be safe. Do not apply the Model Colors too thickly either and you should absolutely fine.
Juan the panda Hi - this video from Historex Agents should help - all the rules for sable brushes apply to any brush - see the end of the video for tips on what you ask th-cam.com/video/Z5vTTgpDl8M/w-d-xo.html.
Excellent painting thanks for posting...is there such a thing in the UK as a model painting weekend retreat where you stay on site/in a hotel and learn from an expert?
Not sure. They must probably exist, know there are course for airbrushing (run by airbrushes.com) but don't think they are residential. Maybe other people know? Answer in the comments.
To be fair a better figure painter can easily blend acrylics. This video is a pretty crude technique for beginners really. Our figures have improved somewhat since this and the key is to blend thin applications (transluscent) acrylics with a dry brush. Then it works better than oils, especially with Lifecolor, Vallejo and Andrea Paint colours. There's some great videos by Last Cavalry Models, a proper figure painter, who describes this blending technique. We will make more figure videos for AFV modellers too soon.
I have a question, is it necessary to use that varnish spray thing at the end part or is it okay to apply the varnish by using a brush as well? I tried to look for that spray here in my place and it's just so elusive.
Raph Lomotan It's fine to use any matt varnish & apply by brush or just leave it unvarnished if easier. The reason AcrylicosVallejo matt varnish is sprayed on by airbrush is because it dries especially flat & it smoothes out the face & different paint coats really well - especially when airbrushed on. Any matt varnish should have the same effect but the Vallejo one is particularly good.
Scale War Machines Thank you very much! I'm currently using vallejo and I know it's really good. One last question,will Satin Varnish do a similar effect?
Raph Lomotan It would probably be that bit too glossy - the matt smoothes things out as it's flat - the satin might work but be too shiny so it may be better to go unvarnished - try on a scrap figure to test it first so you don't ruin your work!
Not really, we've done plenty of figures and busts without washing first (mainly because we forget) and never had an issue. If we wash a figure to get rid of mould release, we'll show it in the video but if we just crack on it's safe to assume there was no concern and no action taken. On the other hand, we do use primers/undercoats - which you can see in most of our other figure films.
Can you use the Vallejo's paint for scale models such as aircraft,tanks,cars.trucks.and have the same results as with other types of scale modeling paints.
Timothy Booker Yes - just let it dry properly and cure fully in some cases. Never had any trouble with it. Thin with Vallejo thinner if you want to spray it or use their Model Air range for airbrushing. For brush painting these Model Color paints are the business...
Hello I started to build dioramas with my airplanes but my big goal are the figures, my models are 1/48 scale and still don’t found one technic for this scale, everybody talk bout 1/35 scale or bigger! I wondering if you can help me? Thank you
Glen Brugge that's a great question & something we've not often done. We'd go with more reddish tones in the base & mid tone mix i.e. Vallejo Burnt Cadmium Red in the mix, then use less white in the highlights & go for Vallejo Beige Red instead. This should give a more reddish, rosy complexion. For final pigmentation, adjust with gentle filters (very thin wash) for the correct tone for your figure's character. If you make it work, show us how you did it! Good luck.
Scale War Machines Many thanks! I am focusing on Japanese armor/crews right now, and was not too sure how to get the skin tones quite right. I appreciate the pointer.
Scale War Machines I also have another question. What is the best technique for painting non geometric camo patterns? I am just starting out on Japanese armor. I have seen people use some very odd masking techniques, but I was wondering what would be the best for such wavy camo patterns in your opinion, say for the Type 95 Light Tank?
Do you use an airbrush? If you do, a mask is a great way to get a hard-edge camo, or use Panzer Putty (check out our video). The easiest way? Brush paint the hard edge of the camo & infill with an airbrush. Or, just brush paint the whole scheme.
I'm creating a diorama of an u-boot that leaves the harbor on a windy day, and watching this video I jumped at the figure in the second 0:17 . Does anyone know what kit is it?
Acrylics work well for base coating but please try oils, take your time and enjoy the results. Acrylics= Too much paint, too many steps, painting small details with fast drying paints drives me crazy. IMHO. Cheers.
Could somebody please tell me (a novice) what sort of varnish would be best to use for protecting areas in between coats?? Acrylics, enamel, polyurethane....???
Just go with a standard Matt Varnish (acrylic) - even if you paint with enamels or oils it will form a barrier and seal things. Allow 20 mins to dry. Vallejo Matt varnish is good and dries flat. Alternatively, you could go with Future/Klear (floor polish) or again an acrylic gloss/satin varnish if you want to retain a shine. (When we say acrylic, the varnishes may in fact be polyurethane - so think "water-based"). Using solvent based varnishes means waiting a long time (like several days) for the them to fully cure before even daring to attempt washes or further effects with enamels or oils...so a quick blast with Vallejo Matt Varnish will be quicker and will do the job.
These look great going to try this on my next project. I've only just started painting so check out my page and look at my video I did of my completed Japanese infantry would appreciate feedback or tips
Looking really good, keep up the good work. The next step is to try to add highlights and shadows by lighting or darkening the base coats and applying to the folds or shadows. But it's a solid start. Well done.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
![fellow fellow - พรุ่งนี้ไม่มีใครรู้ feat. INK WARUNTORN [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QP6JyjYx_W0/mqdefault.jpg)
"Its hard to cross over disciplines" and there you have it. Levelled the problem to one sentence.
th-cam.com/video/FqMnxQ_DO9s/w-d-xo.html
When this vid was released, it introduced me to Vallejo paints with the same recommended colors. That same paints i'd bought are still in working order after all these years.
Thank you for introducing me to Vallejo paints. Love them
Thanks for this video! I'm really struggling with 1:35 and 90mm figure faces and this has really helped
Great Job at this Scale, respekt !
Keeping the paint thin and watered down for the sake of transparency as indicated in this video, is a must, especially when painting faces. I might add, that keeping the paint free of any premature drying that might add the tiny balls of dried paint that lend an undesirable "ruddy" complexion on the figure, should also be emphasized. To this end, a retarder can be very helpful, which makes the paint and application more forgiving. Needless to say, one's palette and brushes must by pristine and free of any dried and loose paint matter as well.
Great video. I bought my first armor kit yesterday and this looks like exactly what I needed to know!
Great tip using the matt varnish between layers. Gonna try it today. Thanks!!
Very informative, although I'd use a piece of wire to dot the pupils of the eyes on, same way i do lettering and numbering
Tom Salmon great idea & thanks for the feedback.
Tom Salmon .
April 18, 2018---Getting back into modeling after 15 years, but going for 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas. When I first started modeling ('74), tried painting a figure and it had the popped/bug eyed look if you know what I mean. Then started doing 28mm fantasy figures years later, which after more than one, started turning out well. Thing is, never did the shadowing. Thanks to your video, ready to give it another whack.
Brilliant!
I truly enjoy your video's, you are very informative and easy to follow. I am a true amateur and have the biggest clumsiness hands. I have the whole set up, basic that is. I just have been watching videos to get to get started. one thing I have not seen that maybe companies should try. take a basic model, armot, planr, figure. Then have some instructional videos to go along with it. Might help some people find a passion they miss or something for them to get into. Just my 2 cents worth.
Please keep the videos coming Master, as this grasshopper is a sponge trying to soak up knowledge. Cheers mate, and have a pint for me..
+MSG.JEFF Carr Thanks ever so much - some great ideas there too. All the best.
Excellent video, very instructive
I like how you properly pronounce Vallejo.
Thank you! At last someone who knows the truth...can't tell you how many comments I have had saying it was Valleggio or Valley-ho etc. etc. I try to tell these people I speak Spanish and know the owner of the company and how he pronounces his own surname....but will they listen! It's a pedantic correct pronunciation campaign I am happily running solo on You Tube!
OK, that really worked well on my first try. My figures had always looked like lepers in the end. Thanks for the tips!
Great to hear!
Excellent video..!! you are the best!
It is very good for a quick and easy face painting! Make also one for a full body figure!
Thanks, we'll get around to it one day!
Hello! Amazing tutorial. For the first grey coat do you use an airbrush ?
. First i made alot of mistakes with the eyes but this video helped me out. Thx
To me eyes are the hardest part.
Thanks your video, helped a lot.
How thin are your paints for brushing
Thank you for the video 👍
This looks fun but I need something for complete beginners
Very good tutorial. Thanks for sharing
great tutorial. thank you for sharing this material. I am just starting out with 1/35 figure painting. wish me luck ( and patience!)
+mhadman Good luck! Stick at it & always use very thin water coats if using acrylics!
+Scale War Machines will do.. need to buy paint. I have a tamiya 88 mm anti tank gun I am looking to build into a dio,on the eastern front. The figures will need quite a bit of work before I can think of painting,but I also have some tamiya Africa corp figures I will be practicing on. thanks again!
+mhadman. Feel free to join our G+ (or Facebook) community & upload your progress pics for advice, help & encouragement! All the best
This video is excellent and I use it for reference many times. Could you make it again with another figure (or figures - maybe one for each of the main armies of wwii) for the two main scales 1:35 and 1:72 and keep it simple and step by step as in this video. Thank you very much!
Excellent tips and to the point! Thx...
Btw you done a fantastic job painting those figures.
How come all my model figures look like the living dead after? LOL
always wondered how people can achieve a blended look instead of making it look like a zombie
Thank you for the really good and easy tutorial!
Nice...love the approach. Thank you for posting.
Great video. Would you recommend painting the faces separately and then gluing to the body once everything is painted? Or assemble the 1/35 figure first then paint?
To be honest it seems easier to paint the face/head separately then attach. If all moulded in one, we still find it better to get the face right first then do the uniform.
Wow, pretty neat.
Whats the story with Vallejo paints? I have just used there Model colour 70846 for the base on a Hornets head. After leaving to dry for four hours I picked it up, rubbed my finger over it to see how smooth it was and the paint just rubbed straight off!
It's probably some chemical residue on the resin. Always degrease and clean the piece you paint. Ideally, use a Vallejo Surface Primer first to be safe. Do not apply the Model Colors too thickly either and you should absolutely fine.
I'm new to figure painting and I need to know something. How do you clean the very thin brushes without messing up the brush and keeping it pointy.
Juan the panda Hi - this video from Historex Agents should help - all the rules for sable brushes apply to any brush - see the end of the video for tips on what you ask th-cam.com/video/Z5vTTgpDl8M/w-d-xo.html.
Do you use the same procedure for the hands
Yes, pretty much.
this video helped me too much thx bro
Muchas gracias, sencilla y precisa explicación.
what % of thinner to paint would you suggest.and also could i use the paint in tube as well as bottles
Very nice - thanks!
Excellent painting thanks for posting...is there such a thing in the UK as a model painting weekend retreat where you stay on site/in a hotel
and learn from an expert?
Not sure. They must probably exist, know there are course for airbrushing (run by airbrushes.com) but don't think they are residential. Maybe other people know? Answer in the comments.
Hi can I ask have you ever done the 1/9 the dark marauder and if so did you do a video cheers Steve
Afraid not, sorry can't be of more use.
where did you order the models? tryin to find some amazing ones
Mostly we buy from Hannants, Historex Agents & online. These figures are from Histoire et Collections/Nemrod of France.
Hannants has good stock & ships worldwide, Historex Agents is good...mostly online.
Excellent!
The problem is,acrylics aren't really meant to blend, so the paint surface looks so rough. Wouldn't oils give a softer look?
To be fair a better figure painter can easily blend acrylics. This video is a pretty crude technique for beginners really. Our figures have improved somewhat since this and the key is to blend thin applications (transluscent) acrylics with a dry brush. Then it works better than oils, especially with Lifecolor, Vallejo and Andrea Paint colours. There's some great videos by Last Cavalry Models, a proper figure painter, who describes this blending technique. We will make more figure videos for AFV modellers too soon.
Can you use other matte finish/ top coat sprays like Krylon, Mr Hobby or Tamiya?
Yes absolutely. As long as it is matt & flattens it all down.
Yes - no problem.
Will Tamiya flat clear work?
I have a question, is it necessary to use that varnish spray thing at the end part or is it okay to apply the varnish by using a brush as well? I tried to look for that spray here in my place and it's just so elusive.
Raph Lomotan It's fine to use any matt varnish & apply by brush or just leave it unvarnished if easier. The reason AcrylicosVallejo matt varnish is sprayed on by airbrush is because it dries especially flat & it smoothes out the face & different paint coats really well - especially when airbrushed on. Any matt varnish should have the same effect but the Vallejo one is particularly good.
Scale War Machines Thank you very much! I'm currently using vallejo and I know it's really good. One last question,will Satin Varnish do a similar effect?
Raph Lomotan It would probably be that bit too glossy - the matt smoothes things out as it's flat - the satin might work but be too shiny so it may be better to go unvarnished - try on a scrap figure to test it first so you don't ruin your work!
Great video
So there is no concern over removing mold release? No application of undercoat or primer?
Not really, we've done plenty of figures and busts without washing first (mainly because we forget) and never had an issue. If we wash a figure to get rid of mould release, we'll show it in the video but if we just crack on it's safe to assume there was no concern and no action taken. On the other hand, we do use primers/undercoats - which you can see in most of our other figure films.
So I assume you're using the airbrush to spray on the varnish between colors.
Correct.
You said it’s around. 3:36 in the video reference ow 9
What brushes use? Thanks!
Usually Historex Agents Kolinsky Sable brushes but also Vallejo, Lifecolor and Andrea Color occassionally.
@@scalewarmachines thanks!
What is the material of this figures ? Plastic or something else?
Resin from Nemrod/Steelmasters with resin heads from Hornet.
Is it just me or does that modells face look like Harrison Ford?
mixed with Humphrey bogart
Eric Cantona...?
COOL VIDEO!!!
What in the world is reference ow 9
Can you use the Vallejo's paint for scale models such as aircraft,tanks,cars.trucks.and have the same results as with other types of scale modeling paints.
Timothy Booker Yes - just let it dry properly and cure fully in some cases. Never had any trouble with it. Thin with Vallejo thinner if you want to spray it or use their Model Air range for airbrushing. For brush painting these Model Color paints are the business...
Cheek hollows, eye sockets, beneath the nose, under the lower lip. Boy there are a lot of little hollows to take into consideration.
very nice!!
Do you know any Vallejo paint color that is like Tamiya's Brillant Blue spray can TS-44? I can't find a color like it in the Vallejo line of paints!
Try Vallejo Game Color "Night Blue" - lighten as necessary with white or Game Color "Turquoise".
mixing paints is so hard, I can’t tell if I need white, red, tans more white, it!s really hard. But all the flesh colors are out of stock..
Hello I started to build dioramas with my airplanes but my big goal are the figures, my models are 1/48 scale and still don’t found one technic for this scale, everybody talk bout 1/35 scale or bigger! I wondering if you can help me? Thank you
We're planning to do some 1/48th stuff soon, including figures, but there's nothing currently.
Thank you, I’m waiting for
What colors would you use for Asian skin tones, say to paint the faces of Japanese infantry figures who have been out in the jungle for a while?
Glen Brugge that's a great question & something we've not often done. We'd go with more reddish tones in the base & mid tone mix i.e. Vallejo Burnt Cadmium Red in the mix, then use less white in the highlights & go for Vallejo Beige Red instead. This should give a more reddish, rosy complexion. For final pigmentation, adjust with gentle filters (very thin wash) for the correct tone for your figure's character. If you make it work, show us how you did it! Good luck.
Scale War Machines Many thanks! I am focusing on Japanese armor/crews right now, and was not too sure how to get the skin tones quite right. I appreciate the pointer.
Scale War Machines I also have another question. What is the best technique for painting non geometric camo patterns? I am just starting out on Japanese armor. I have seen people use some very odd masking techniques, but I was wondering what would be the best for such wavy camo patterns in your opinion, say for the Type 95 Light Tank?
Do you use an airbrush? If you do, a mask is a great way to get a hard-edge camo, or use Panzer Putty (check out our video). The easiest way? Brush paint the hard edge of the camo & infill with an airbrush. Or, just brush paint the whole scheme.
Thank you once again. A very interesting product indeed!
😎👍
Great tips
I'm creating a diorama of an u-boot that leaves the harbor on a windy day, and watching this video I jumped at the figure in the second 0:17 . Does anyone know what kit is it?
Marco Zoccoletto they are Hornet/Wolf reference from the Hornet figure range. Not sure they are still sold.
@@scalewarmachines thanks
Acrylics work well for base coating but please try oils, take your time and enjoy the results. Acrylics= Too much paint, too many steps, painting small details with fast drying paints drives me crazy. IMHO. Cheers.
Could somebody please tell me (a novice) what sort of varnish would be best to use for protecting areas in between coats?? Acrylics, enamel, polyurethane....???
Just go with a standard Matt Varnish (acrylic) - even if you paint with enamels or oils it will form a barrier and seal things. Allow 20 mins to dry. Vallejo Matt varnish is good and dries flat. Alternatively, you could go with Future/Klear (floor polish) or again an acrylic gloss/satin varnish if you want to retain a shine. (When we say acrylic, the varnishes may in fact be polyurethane - so think "water-based"). Using solvent based varnishes means waiting a long time (like several days) for the them to fully cure before even daring to attempt washes or further effects with enamels or oils...so a quick blast with Vallejo Matt Varnish will be quicker and will do the job.
For some reason this guys sounds similar to ashens to me lol.
wow that was a amazing. i am a bigginer
Bryan Q. Arriola glad you liked it - it's aimed squarely at beginners so we're pleased it was useful.
yeah i really like it for the painting figures faces ;). i telling u somethings. my hand's are shaking, really shaky
Just use a tan soldier and do all the work
why?you Spray something in the ending?what is that?(sorry my English is not good)
It's probably the matt varnish to seal everything when complete.
Scale War Machines oh! thank you 👍
The model looks like Harrison ford.
Good stuff but he still has crazy eyes
War will do that to a (plastic) man...
These look great going to try this on my next project. I've only just started painting so check out my page and look at my video I did of my completed Japanese infantry would appreciate feedback or tips
Looking really good, keep up the good work. The next step is to try to add highlights and shadows by lighting or darkening the base coats and applying to the folds or shadows. But it's a solid start. Well done.
I do not want to be mean but as a professional figure painter this is not very good.
That’s not mean. It’s fine. Your channel and videos are awesome BTW. Oh that’s right no videos, 20 subs, no views. Get involved in the community.
bu. !
I don`t like Vallejo. I don`t like it one bit.
+mybluebelly What do you use?
what is wrong with your pronunciation?? it's val ayo sounding for vallejo not vieichoo! lol