Hello. OK, FOllow the bouncing ball here, this is not that difficult. FIrt, remember the splines that connect the wash plate to the transmission are tapered! Prying up on ANY side of the plate only makes things worse since it pinches the splines together and all manner of yankiing on the edges simply tightens the two splines even more! Here is the best way that worked perectly for me: First, once you remove the center bolt, pour either heated white vinegar or a good spray of BLASTER around the bolt hole making certain it gets into the splie area. Let that soak in for at least an hour. Next, gently tap all around the center collar of the plate including tapping both sides of each impeller vane. NOT TOO HARD, just enough to break any corrosion between the two splie parts...make and female. Probably should NOT hit down onto where the bolt was...that will only further jam the splines together. Not doo. Now, take a GOOD pair of channel locks, tightly grip anywhere around the top edge of the bolt collar (the raised circle that surrounds the bolt), and yank up. Voila, it should come right out but make certain you pull it STRAIGHT UP and not torqued to one side of the other. All the other methods only worked againsT you. And when you are ready to replace the impeller or wash plate, make certain you take a good brass brush and clean out the splines as much as you can to remove any loose corrosion. Take a tooth brush soaked in blaster or WD40 to clean out the inside of the plate spines. Then, coat both splines with a good Anti Seize lubricant (Permatex is a good choice in the gray tube). Replace the wash plate or agitator and exercise up and down gently to evenly better distribute the lubricant. You are done. Relplace the bolt with the BLUE Lock Tite lubricant. Now if you need to remove it at a future date, repeating the above provess will allow the plate to be removed easily if even you need to do that. And no, the lube will not stain your clothes. It is fully encapsulated by the tight fit of the two splices. Enjoy.. Dr. Z (Lou)
Hello. OK, FOllow the bouncing ball here, this is not that difficult. FIrt, remember the splines that connect the wash plate to the transmission are tapered! Prying up on ANY side of the plate only makes things worse since it pinches the splines together and all manner of yankiing on the edges simply tightens the two splines even more! Here is the best way that worked perectly for me: First, once you remove the center bolt, pour either heated white vinegar or a good spray of BLASTER around the bolt hole making certain it gets into the splie area. Let that soak in for at least an hour. Next, gently tap all around the center collar of the plate including tapping both sides of each impeller vane. NOT TOO HARD, just enough to break any corrosion between the two splie parts...make and female. Probably should NOT hit down onto where the bolt was...that will only further jam the splines together. Not doo. Now, take a GOOD pair of channel locks, tightly grip anywhere around the top edge of the bolt collar (the raised circle that surrounds the bolt), and yank up. Voila, it should come right out but make certain you pull it STRAIGHT UP and not torqued to one side of the other. All the other methods only worked againsT you. And when you are ready to replace the impeller or wash plate, make certain you take a good brass brush and clean out the splines as much as you can to remove any loose corrosion. Take a tooth brush soaked in blaster or WD40 to clean out the inside of the plate spines. Then, coat both splines with a good Anti Seize lubricant (Permatex is a good choice in the gray tube). Replace the wash plate or agitator and exercise up and down gently to evenly better distribute the lubricant. You are done. Relplace the bolt with the BLUE Lock Tite lubricant. Now if you need to remove it at a future date, repeating the above provess will allow the plate to be removed easily if even you need to do that. And no, the lube will not stain your clothes. It is fully encapsulated by the tight fit of the two splices. Enjoy.. Dr. Z (Lou)