A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
Just swapped mine out. It was a revision C (2013 Audi A4). I inspected the O-Rings and they looked fine, and it felt like it actuated fine, but there was a tiny amount of oil in the electrical connector. Not sure if that indicated a bad DV, but, I went ahead and replaced it. Hopefully this fixes my P0299 code.
A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
I took mines out and the blue seal feels like plastic, I also blew into it with my mouth over the plastic cap and I air was getting past it. Does that mean it’s failed as the seal isn’t sealing?
We’re you having hard shift behavior? It seems my car is letting the DV open for a split second during some shifts that’s possibly causing hard shifts per tuner. Might need to buy a new Rev
Car is 6 speed manual so throttle is off during shifts regardless. This was a short vid to show others what to potentially look for on their DV. (Latest 2 revisions)
I got all 3 screws removed but I can’t remove the diverter valve seems as if it’s caught on to something Im scared to pull to hard don’t wanna break anything what can be the issue?
You may have missed the top bolt which can't be seen from under car. You may have counted the bolt which holds a small bracket (seperate from the DV) next to the bottom DV bolt and thought you'd removed all 3 bolts holding the DV. I know I did.
So i lost that spring while taking the dv valve out to work on something else, now i get no boost build up and car just feels weaker than ever. Would that spring being gone be the reason
@@adrianleon1731 boost holds better you can see it on the guage and the blow off sound is slightly louder but thats it. If you want oem+ type feel its ur best bet but if you want big blow off sound I'd go with the non dv styles that blow off to atmosphere or recurring hybrids. The gfb dv is also better construction meaning it will not break or tear like oem bottoms do.
A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
My car in 4th gear and up when more then quarter throttle is applied or about 3600 rpm builds a lot of boost fast then seams to fall off? Got any ideas
if u drive a dsg then a turbo smart wouldn’t be that much different in performance, if u have a manual car the oem diverter is def better because you don’t loose too much boost when shifting
![Euro Diverter Valves and DV+ Explained [GO FAST BRETT]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ijVPz9mW4_A/mqdefault.jpg)
![Euro Diverter Valves and DV+ Explained [GO FAST BRETT]](/img/tr.png)
A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
Just swapped mine out. It was a revision C (2013 Audi A4). I inspected the O-Rings and they looked fine, and it felt like it actuated fine, but there was a tiny amount of oil in the electrical connector. Not sure if that indicated a bad DV, but, I went ahead and replaced it. Hopefully this fixes my P0299 code.
Did it fix it?
@@antoinecureton I don’t think it did. The light went away because it’s winter and cold but I think the turbo valve is bad.
A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
Does new J revision works with EA113 in MK5 GTI Edition 30 and MK6 R? Or it is only G and D revisions compatable?
A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
I took mines out and the blue seal feels like plastic, I also blew into it with my mouth over the plastic cap and I air was getting past it. Does that mean it’s failed as the seal isn’t sealing?
Unplug ur map sensor too and check if u get a new code. If not , replace ur map sensor. Worked for me
Can diverter valve create "intermittent" codes for under boosts )P0299)? I'm currently fighting one fantom code that sometimes appears, sometimes not.
So my car struggles to accelerate unless I’m at or over 3000 rpm is this why then so I would need to replace this and issue resolved ??
Replaced this sensor and notice there is a rip in the orange cone it that a big issue is driving it ok
Excellent demo
We’re you having hard shift behavior? It seems my car is letting the DV open for a split second during some shifts that’s possibly causing hard shifts per tuner. Might need to buy a new Rev
Car is 6 speed manual so throttle is off during shifts regardless. This was a short vid to show others what to potentially look for on their DV. (Latest 2 revisions)
Can this also cause lean code like P2187?
I just got p0243 code, could this be it?
I got a po299 could this be it?
Pierburg reversion Dv or Gfb?? Looking for answers have a BT Mk5 loosing boost right at 2500/3k rpm before throttle
Did you ever figure it out I’ve got the same problem on my seat Leon 1.4 tsi where it starts judering until I’m over 3000rpm
I got all 3 screws removed but I can’t remove the diverter valve seems as if it’s caught on to something Im scared to pull to hard don’t wanna break anything what can be the issue?
You may have missed the top bolt which can't be seen from under car. You may have counted the bolt which holds a small bracket (seperate from the DV) next to the bottom DV bolt and thought you'd removed all 3 bolts holding the DV. I know I did.
@@johnfrizza681 you are 100% correct. I felt so dumb when I seen that last bolt up top 😂
@@awax9221 Not to worry - hopefully you got the DV off successfully. This is a very difficult operation when done on your back under the car.
@@johnfrizza681 After noticing that last bolt up top I got it off fairly quick. Thank you for your response I appreciate it.
how can I test this valve can I put a 12 volt and see if its operating or not
Most sensors are either 5v or 12v, so I would start 5v to be safe.
So i lost that spring while taking the dv valve out to work on something else, now i get no boost build up and car just feels weaker than ever. Would that spring being gone be the reason
More than likely
@@JewelCity1 would it mess with the throttle as well? The throttle had felt weirder than usual after this happened.
@@allenmiljkovic-kf5zn Why would you install it without the spring ?
@@HardstyleBulgaria the spring fell off without me realizing, so i just bought a new dv valve and the cars running better.
@@allenmiljkovic-kf5zn Oh okay ! I was like "why?" haha! Did you buy "gfb dv+" ?
I go gfb dv+ with latest revision on top
Any noticeable difference?
@@adrianleon1731 boost holds better you can see it on the guage and the blow off sound is slightly louder but thats it. If you want oem+ type feel its ur best bet but if you want big blow off sound I'd go with the non dv styles that blow off to atmosphere or recurring hybrids. The gfb dv is also better construction meaning it will not break or tear like oem bottoms do.
Recirculating *
@@hyper8545 I had one before on my 2017 Jetta GLI. Aren’t you supposed to take them out to recoil the piston or no?
@@adrianleon1731 idk never heard of that. I only touched mine once. It's been few years
Is d the latest version for the 2011 Audi a4 avant? Or J
Doubt a 2011 car would have the latest revision that a 2019+ car would have.
@@JewelCity1mine is 2011 and it had a new version idk if it was aftermarket from the past
Does anyone know how this piece is called in portuguese?😅
i know they are called egr valves in things other than volkswagens and audis
Are they supposed to fall apart?
Yeah
I thought Revision G was the latest.
A lot of people dont know but the BEST VERSION is the G version because the G version seal better using silicon, but, it breaks more easily and was changed by the C J F and D, but the thrut is, the G is the better for performance... If you can change more often the G is better...
My car in 4th gear and up when more then quarter throttle is applied or about 3600 rpm builds a lot of boost fast then seams to fall off? Got any ideas
Check for codes and log it during the next pull
Would there be any benefit to upgrade to an atmospheric BOV? Forge or Turbosmart in specific
just for sound. a Go Fast Bits DV+ would be the best in terms of an upgrade through.
Sounds much better/cooler but not the best performance wise. OEM seems to be the winner there.
@@JewelCity1 right on, thanks man
if u drive a dsg then a turbo smart wouldn’t be that much different in performance, if u have a manual car the oem diverter is def better because you don’t loose too much boost when shifting
I have the full recirculating turbosmart. Works amazing, sounds absolutely completely bad ass