Super helpful video thanks. I was putting off fixing my G07 in my Centipede that had a color dropping out intermittently. Gave the PCB a good cleaning did a cap kit and re-flowed some suspect-looking solder and now I am back in business and the monitor looks super sharp. Now to do the k4900 in my Joust, and my spare k4900 and k7000 that I picked up years ago.
One of my initial issues appears to be back. When I started the game this morning the red was gone. In the past, a tap on the side of the machine would sometimes bring it back. I just left it this morning and a few minutes later the red came back on its own and looks good again. Any idea what could be causing me that issue? the red is nice and bright when I have it on screen. I don't think it is wiring or my game PCB since when I had another monitor in it for a month or so I had no issues with the red dropping. I was wondering if maybe the red transistor on the neckboard might have a bad solder joint?
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/capacitors/electrohome-g07-cbo-monitor-cap-kit-105c/ My background is military and civilian aircraft Avionics.
Nice! Don't think i've ever seen that resistor go either on the ones i've done. Have you ever had a G07-CA0 on your bench? They look almost the same as the G07-CB0 but are about half as wide again on the left, with a large area on the left unpopulated where the rgb mixer/input area is and a separate pcb fitted over the left hand side (which is actually the rgb mixer/input section). I have two on the shelf that i've "borrowed" parts from over the years but I think are worth rebuilding at some point.
Hey Mike Thanks for the very educational video. I just have a question. as far as the voltage regulator, your correct readings were .55 and .18. i have a blown f901 fuse and im wondering if the voltage regulator readings are high could that be the cause of the blown fuse? my readings are .53 and .22 is this within a tolerable range? also does there have to be a reason for the blown fuse or could it just be the fuse needing to be replaced? thanks.
You’re welcome. Yes. It very well could. It needs to be removed and tested out of circuit. Also make sure the B+ resistor reads correctly with the regulator removed.
Don't forget to add r908 to the list of components to check for to cause a dead monitor. That resistor goes out of spec alot.
Super helpful video thanks. I was putting off fixing my G07 in my Centipede that had a color dropping out intermittently. Gave the PCB a good cleaning did a cap kit and re-flowed some suspect-looking solder and now I am back in business and the monitor looks super sharp. Now to do the k4900 in my Joust, and my spare k4900 and k7000 that I picked up years ago.
One of my initial issues appears to be back. When I started the game this morning the red was gone. In the past, a tap on the side of the machine would sometimes bring it back. I just left it this morning and a few minutes later the red came back on its own and looks good again. Any idea what could be causing me that issue? the red is nice and bright when I have it on screen. I don't think it is wiring or my game PCB since when I had another monitor in it for a month or so I had no issues with the red dropping. I was wondering if maybe the red transistor on the neckboard might have a bad solder joint?
Thanks for the video. Where can I get a cap kit?? Curious, what is your electronics background?? Thanks again!!!!!!
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/capacitors/electrohome-g07-cbo-monitor-cap-kit-105c/
My background is military and civilian aircraft Avionics.
Nice! Don't think i've ever seen that resistor go either on the ones i've done. Have you ever had a G07-CA0 on your bench? They look almost the same as the G07-CB0 but are about half as wide again on the left, with a large area on the left unpopulated where the rgb mixer/input area is and a separate pcb fitted over the left hand side (which is actually the rgb mixer/input section). I have two on the shelf that i've "borrowed" parts from over the years but I think are worth rebuilding at some point.
Not yet but I’ll keep an eye out.
Smeggin awesome repair sir 👌
Thank you.
Hey Mike Thanks for the very educational video. I just have a question. as far as the voltage regulator, your correct readings were .55 and .18. i have a blown f901 fuse and im wondering if the voltage regulator readings are high could that be the cause of the blown fuse? my readings are .53 and .22 is this within a tolerable range? also does there have to be a reason for the blown fuse or could it just be the fuse needing to be replaced? thanks.
You’re welcome. Yes. It very well could. It needs to be removed and tested out of circuit. Also make sure the B+ resistor reads correctly with the regulator removed.
Nice easy one