They make torque wrenches for a reason, impact hammering the bearing with that impact can cause premature failure. They also list preloads for the bearing to insure bearing is at proper torque to prevent overheating and damage to races.
@@LehewTech But if the point is to make an instructional video, teaching the wrong things, not telling sizes of all the sockets you're using, no point in doing it. It's bad advertising for your shop and will cause people to do it wrong. And this was probably lucky.
As a Hyundai Technician by trade, I get a little sick on my stomach to see someone hammer directly on the treads of anything. The ease of this going back together with no issue is nothing short of lucky. Informing people on bad wrenching habits is terrible.
I think the only reason anybody builds a car with pressed-in bearings is to discourage owners from replacing their own so that they'll (maybe) have the dealer shop replace the bearings and then do a front-end alignment. Bolt-in bearings mean that the owner can do it himself pretty easily without removing the strut bolts or needing an alignment (unless the car already needs one). Although I ran into a friend's car (a Ford) with one of the bearing bolts put in backwards with the head facing the CV joint; a clever way to make the job harder for the owner to do.
After watching the full video I now know why you did way more than required for a wheel stud....I wouldn't allow you to work on a wheel barrow let alone a car.
6:29 I did this and the hub pushed out the ID of the new bearing, ruining it. After getting a new bearing and supporting the ID, it went on but I'm still unsure how far to put the hub into the bearing. I was using a huge hydraulic press so when the gauge showed any pressure we stopped
Oh man. I use a caliper hanger for the caliper, never hit the top of the tie rod stud, use a slide hammer to remove the hub instead of pounding on the back of it with a sledge hammer, since the hub was already out I use an air hammer to PUSH the wheel studs in throgh the back of the hub instead of pulling it throgh by the threads, torque the bearing to its actual PROPER specifications, torque the wheel properly as to not screw up anymore wheel studs all before doing an alignment as the steering knuckle was removed and there is a good chance the camber is not in spec. That would be the correct way to do things. But you are wearing sun glasses IN the shop so I guess that's cool...
Figure out a way to spin hub while you apply heat evenly with a torch....race will fall right off, then you don't have to worry about messing up a good hub.
Use 1 1/4 inch diameter socket to drive out hub from spindle. After removing wheel hub from bearing : Use hammer & chisel to move bearing away from hub then use OTC 1022 : 2 Jaw puller : Then slide hub on axle shaft backwards & reinstall axle shaft nut only : use 2 jaw puller to pull remaining bearing off hub spindle.
THAT WAY OF WORKING ONLY I CAN SEE IT IN CERTAIN PLACES OF MY COUNTRY PERU, WHERE THE TECHNOLOGY IN TOOLS IS NOT PRESENT AND THE COMMBA AND CINSELES ARE MUCH USED ... BUT THE WORKSHOPS ARE UNDERWAY IMPEDED ... BUT SEE THIS IN AN ENGLISH WORKSHOP I DID NOT WAIT FOR IT, IT LOOKS LIKE "TIO LUCHIN" THAT FOR EVERYTHING EVERYTHING USED A COMBA! THERE ARE MISTAKES THAT OUR FRIEND HAS TO CORRECT, EVEN THANK YOU .....
Good job here ya did n from ya home is cool for guy like me who have,2011 Elantra n change out da valve cover exhaust n sparks plug n serpentine belt n PCV JUST IN FEW DAYS . NOW MY CAR HAVE BEEN MAKING VIBRATING NOISE UP FRONT AFTER SPEEDS OF, 60 to 70 MPH. Am wondering if da cv joints r bad
Torque wrenches are for noobs. I liked the video. Oh, for those whose going to put the bearing in without that press..please upload that vid , I want to see. I'll make some popcorn .
I installed the bearing using a bearing press kit, Powerbuilt Alltrade 648741 Kit 27 Front Wheel Drive Bearing Removal and Installation Tool Set; did the job three times on my Mark IV Jetta and now once on my 2014 Elantra GT. The only downside is that just like Lehew, I had to hammer out the hub first since you can only access the bearing from the inside...
the best way to get that bearing out is to hammer it out let me see you guys figure out how to jig it up in the press without total destroying the brake dust backing plate great video thanks
Good point it can be tough to deal with the spindles where the bolts that hold the backing plate on are not accessible after the hub is pressed in. Thanks for watching.
Very good speed on repairs, thanks but there is one barbaric method your have used here is the removal of the race from hub. I prefer to use a torch of the race and it falls off the hub in seconds, this will cut some time on your video.
If i may weigh in!! Couple points from doing many front wheel bearings myself and seen damage by different techniques. If you not reusing the bearings then you can hammer out the hub and then cut the outside bearing as he showed or if its not too stuck on use 2 long jimmys either side and lever it off. both ways will not damage hub. However when you replace stud you need to support under the stud if you going to wack it through instead of put one side in vice and leave other end and hammer at that long arm distance can bend hub just 1/2 mm leaving wheel wobble and hub ruined. These are precise items and can be bent even though very strong. Support it!! Dont pound old bearing out as stress on Hub cast is severe and once damaged thats game over. You have press or bolt and drifts for pressing new bearing in, press out old bearing and hub! and clean inside hub and apply little grease then press in carefully straight new bearing till it bottoms on lip on hub and install circlip. install seals if app & Spin and should be totally free unless seals installed which will provide some drag as lips rub on metal. I use a small 1 foot sledge when pound out hub and other times around items that need it only. Dont pound on end of CV shaft or you round the end thread, put nut on or use rubber mallet or smaller punch to hit end. Also if you have variable McPherson bolt positions, mark carefully before removal otherwise the camber will be way off when you re tighten then without knowing how far in or out the strut is when you tighten. You might need to take to shop for $$ realignment but you can buy a small $15 camber gauge from ebay you can attach to wheel to keep adjust till you get both sides same and correct figure. I do everything myself on my car and always use some care and NOT brute force and always remember these may be tempered steel, but they are precision parts and also could fail under stress driving if you wail away with a 1 meter long sledge- consider that!! Final POINT. it ok to use rattle gun to remove CV nut but DO NOT use it to put it on . I tighten with bar and spin bearing to help seat like any other bearing you would do always spin while tighten THEN do final tighten with torque wrench eg 200-300nm and rotate. A rattle gun hammers twisting violently which can be same as short sharp pounding with sledge on those bearings. You may get away with it once but after you go for drive you may get home to discover that wheel is HOT and other wheel cold- Congrats you just ruined your new bearing...
Thanks, i can get a bit "wordy" at times but i generally collate good and bad of a dozen videos on the same thing and hi-lite important "safe" points and dont mean to "pick" on one poster's video as i love watching them and learn stuff myself. But IMO just so readers can ask themselves as eg, should i freeze a bearing and torch a hub so the bearing can just pop straight in? Great but now you have stressed/expanded the cast hub? and frozen and cooked bearing grease which has thermal limits? so how will the bearing last/fail now when installed? I dont know if that method is reliable? but old way of pressing in is only way of doing bearing without risking heat damage and is safe and proven way. always use common sense and "book" practises when in doubt on repairing anything.
tim thanks for the technical asseeement apreciate all the engineering pointers regarding fatigue and wear, I like Lehew tech videos they use good camera angles and shows all the steps clearly without a bunch of nonsense I subscribed and liked the video....thumbs up
Listen am a qualified mechanic for 51years an let me tell you to things when ya making a video do the things right don't ever hit the axle like that on the threading use a punch a tap it on the centre an it will move. The other thing u did wrong is the pressing, the spindle head while pressing you turn it while pressing ,if u don't the bearings could be on a strain an it wouldn't last long on the vehicle
@@naze158 dude I did replace one stud on the front wheel of 2012 Elantra without removing the hub. It can be done. It is completely idiotic to remove the bearing to replace the 2 little studs.
I would replace the assembly instead of this hassle. Out with old, in with new! If i only had a press or a gut to scribe the steel, i would do this. On other hand i got dough so i prefer to replace it anyway since you got it out.
kentaddition True, been looking for a full assembly for months. They sell the knuckle itself on ebay(new). I'll most likely buy a new hub and bearing and just hammer out the old bearing and discard the old hub to avoid cutting the race and just hammer it back in. I hate bearings😑
What you do to get the new bearing in without any hassle is put the knuckle in the oven let it get warm and put the bearing in the freezer and once the knuckle is good and warm you just drop the bearing right in without any effort I saw a video of some European guy doing it and tried it myself works like a charm
Try not to hit directly on the axle shaft head and other bolts. Place the nut over them and slightly, it will not harm the bolts mean will not deform the bolts and axle shaft.
Can anyone tell me if that nut that holds the wheel bearing in place loosens off to the left or to the right ? Normally things are lefty loosy but some nuts are opposite so they don’t thread back off with say the direction of the wheel spinning.
One day I’m just going to use an old non op car to try all these mechanical techniques and try to learn to save my self some money when my daily cars needs some work.
Just discovered this reality. Would I need to go through all the steps you did here if all I wanted to do was replace one lug bolt? No issues with bearings, etc.
Okay, update time. I used my drimel and created a small U-shaped cut out (smoothed it out with the polisher) in the shield on the inside of the wheel. Just enough and the old lug slide out and the new one in. Took about 25 minutes all in. If all you need to do is replace a broken wheel lug bolt, this might be an option. Obviously not ideal, but I had no other options beyond a tow truck or highly expensive repair I do not need.
Know this is old thread but I've done same and even grind down one side of flange on stud if need be to get it to slide past shield or knuckle, for all the OMG I can't believe you would do that comments, save that shit for someone who cares or will listen to the bullshit know it all comments I guarantee more than a few will have. Time is money and I guarantee the people that I do work for would want me to take the quickest easiest route that is perfectly fine and safe, while saving them every dollar possible because the longer i spend and harder I have to work equates to a higher bill for customers and nobody likes a higher bill, so I ask them what and how they want me to do the job and guess what damn near every single customer says, if it isn't going to affect safety by all means slightly grind down edge of flange on stud compared to disassembling entire knuckle and pressing and replacing bearing and etc for a wheel stud. Some shit just isn't feasible, but I would love to hear how I'm wrong. Decent video and many ways to accomplish a task, while I may not agree with all ways people do shit, to each is own.
Hi there can you explain the part where you sawed off the metal? I was going to Ofer the bearing and take it to a machine shop so they can pop it in. The metal cutting throws me off. If you could explain to me that part. Would be great ! Thanks
Two kinds of wheel bearings, pressed-in and bolt-on. This is pressed in. These pressed-in bearings corrode and seize between the inner race of the bearing and the hub. The hub can only come off by pulling it out, and the bearing usually comes off by pressing it in. So, when you try to get the hub off, the bearing will break at the weakest junction, leaving the inner half of the bearing with the hub and the outer half with the knuckle. Surprisingly there isn't really a better way to do that with pressed-in bearings. No matter how you get the hub off the bearing usually grenades. The part you are asking about is the inner race, stuck in the hub. Sometimes you get lucky and can press the inner race off, but often there isn't enough of a lip on the race to grab onto. So, the usual approach is to use a cutting wheel on a grinder and score the inner race. Then you use a cold chisel and try to crack the race. The race is made of hard brittle steel, so it cracks fairly easily. It is very easy to let that grinder slip and damage the hub, sometimes so much that the hub needs to be replaced. Once the race is cracked you can get something behind and pry it off. Application of heat may help to release the inner race. If you're going to take this to a shop, they can do it all, just bring in the hub and knuckle and new wheel bearing. This video is a reminder to use shops that don't mangle your lug bolts, requiring expensive repair....
my car is a hyundai elantra 2017, I have a big problem, every time I go through a gap I hear a strong blow from the right side of the front, I changed the shock absorber (strut), the stabilizer bars, the support arms and even so the coup continues. I don't know what to do anymore. Someone help me please. I went to the dealership, nor did they find the problem
Negative comments usually from the worst offenders. A "brake mechanic" bad mouthed other mechanics in his shop while working on my car, he finishes my brakes, I drive away, brakes lose pressure when stress testing them, drive 5 miles back very slowly, brake cylinder BLEW OUT since he screwed up the job, he wanted to charge me for a NEW brake cylinder, his manager said the repair is free since the mechanic screwed up. I was luck I was not KILLED in an accident!
James Chuaycham ป้อม ศักดิ์ชัย Yes James I bent the metal shield out of place to put the stud in then I bent it back in its no big deal just make sure it’s not rubbing against anything when you push it back into place
You used the old bearing to press it in wrong... should have the side with the inner race missing facing the new bearing... You just pressed the new bearing in by the inner race...
I need to do this on my 2014 Elantra. Is there a way to replace the wheel bearing as an entire unit so I don't have to get the bearing pressed on? Local parts store says no.
Unless you replace the entire spindle you have to press that bearing in. You can buy a used spindle cheaply, but the danger is that it may also have a bad wheel bearing.
Good question, the impact driver I used is essential for breaking loose the screws. If you attempted this with a normal screwdriver it may strip the head or slip out with the high torque needed to break it loose
There's nothing i hate more than handing money to a Mechanic! I would almost rather set it on fire.... I love that i have a guy that i can go to, just to do the heavy stuff, like pressing bearings and torching some real nasty stuck bolts. I do 90% in my driveway, but when it comes to specialty jobs like swapping out bearings, he charges me a very reasonable amount to finish it off. Plus I always pay in cash, because i believe he pockets the money to fund his Vicodin habit.
Thinking about do the same thing with my wheel bearings swap. How much does your mechanic charge and in what state so I have and idea of how much to pay. thanks
Way too many parts replacers posing as Technicians out there. The guy had access to a press the entire time yet spent more time beating the crap out of the hub to get the old one out No doubt hitting the wheel stud damaging the threads.Charging the customer I'll bet. And hitting the drive axle with a steel sledge you csn cause the axles end to chip off. Anyone who feels they need to use a sledgehammer to do most of the work shouldn't be near someones else's automobile.
The ball joint wouldn't free spin when trying to tighten if you didn't smash the threads when you hit it with the hammer. Good video overall. Thanks for your effort.
But really..he does show that it can be partly done on a vise...and there is some bearing install tools to rent if one doesn't have access to a press. .
You're suppose to tighten the axle nut to the specific torque the manufacture specifies. Usually between 115 to 210 ft lbs to prevent premature wear on the wheel bearings. But this is how they make so much money on repeat customers when parts fail early! Scotty Kilmer, Chrisfix, and ETCG are the very reason I don't let these kind of people touch my cars! Lol
Yea I've seen many cars with failed bearings that have new axles installed that were probably overtorqued. That said, Your hero ETCG has a video where he uses an impact to install a CV axle nut. In reality when you do this kind of work every day you don't have time to be autistic about torquing everything you touch with a torque wrench. Some of us know the power of the tools we use every day and know how to hit the sweet spot. Some of us dont. Dont like to gamble? Only option is to fix your car yourself and I wish you luck with that.
Lehew Tech I have and do to this day! This weekend as a matter of a fact, I replaced the radiator with new hoses on my 05 Buick century for under 100.00 and with new dexcool. Hours spent were 3. Most shops quoted me between 400 to 650 to do the job in as early as 3 days!
As long as they aren't cross threaded and the gun is set to less than 100 ft-lb, they'll be ok. Unfortunately some mechanics dont bother to be careful--i had a shop over tighten mine and then studs started breaking off--but that's why I'm the only one that puts wheels on my vehicles anymore.
thestig572420 lol you kids believe anything. Been doing this kind of work since 1970 and never torque wheels and have never lost one. Not even on my tractor trailers
What should a job like this cost on average friend asked me to help a relative out I'm gonna charge em but I don't know where to base this out I usually do other crap like tune ups and oil changes brake jobs I've done my own bearings so I know what I'm doing but what's a fair price point for a shop
Yes for this vehicle you get a wheel bearing "unit" which is actually composed of two bearings in one assembly. If you reuse the hub you will have to cut the race off of the hub.
Thanks for clearing that up. I ordered the Front Wheel bearing kit which includes a new hub, bearing, and clip. I don't want to muck around with a grinder on someone elses vehicle.
I've changed the front bearings on my MK IV Jetta three times so far and the process is similar...however, I used the Harbour Freight wheel bearing adapters kit. Do you think that it'll work for an Elantra?
Tried, it, it works, but not for hub removal from the bearing, only for bearing removal from the knuckle and bearing installation into the knuckle and hub installation into the bearing. To remove the hub from the bearing, I had to wail on it with the sledge hammer...
Now I have someone to do this, If I buy the parts. It looks like I'll get new hubs with the bearings. It should save on labor! And why not do the ball joints at the same time.
Good video but you should really be torqueing the lugs to spec so you don't warp the rotor. Also, the axle nut but for different reasons. Why didn't you press the bearing out with the hydraulic press instead of banging it out with a hammer?
The work platform of the hydraulic press is too narrow for the hub to fit so there is no clearance for it to be pressed out. Axle nut spec is a bit over 200ftlbs, id say im about there. The lugs got torqued 2 spec when I set the car on the ground.
Anyone near Orlando that can teach me how to fix my own wheel? I have a 2016 Hyundai Tucson that sounds as if I am falling asleep am hitting those little thingies on the side of the highway.
Things it could be: - Bad tire/lumpy tire/something stuck in your tire - warped rotor - bad wheel bearing - stuck brake caliper But, hopefully you've gotten it fixed by now haha.
Get the job done fast with this: amzn.to/2JFSruE
Wat was that rubbish way ....i felt that hammer hurts me ....idiot ...empty minded
What size lock nut is that on the end of cv joint?
@@deannutz8102 32 mm or 1-1/4"
Sledge to the axle. Not using a breaker bar first. Letting caliper hang by rubber hose. I hate working on my vehicles but this is why I do it.
Amen
Hack ass mechanic if ever saw one...
Didn’t torque axle nut, will be time for a new wheel bearing soon. Lol
Bet you that poor individual paid over 400 dollars for that job.
1000$
They make torque wrenches for a reason, impact hammering the bearing with that impact can cause premature failure. They also list preloads for the bearing to insure bearing is at proper torque to prevent overheating and damage to races.
KaLLaT Yea I keep hearing that but this car's wheel bearing is still going strong. Guess my impact tightening skills are on point
@@LehewTech watching you do this is the reason I work on my own vehicle. Half ass bullshit to save 10 minutes of time.
@@LehewTech But if the point is to make an instructional video, teaching the wrong things, not telling sizes of all the sockets you're using, no point in doing it. It's bad advertising for your shop and will cause people to do it wrong. And this was probably lucky.
As a Hyundai Technician by trade, I get a little sick on my stomach to see someone hammer directly on the treads of anything. The ease of this going back together with no issue is nothing short of lucky. Informing people on bad wrenching habits is terrible.
I think the only reason anybody builds a car with pressed-in bearings is to discourage owners from replacing their own
so that they'll (maybe) have the dealer shop replace the bearings and then do a front-end alignment. Bolt-in bearings mean that the owner can do it himself pretty easily without removing the strut bolts or needing an alignment (unless the car already needs one). Although I ran into a friend's car (a Ford) with one of the bearing bolts put in backwards with the head facing the CV joint; a clever way to make the job harder for the owner to do.
After watching the full video I now know why you did way more than required for a wheel stud....I wouldn't allow you to work on a wheel barrow let alone a car.
6:29 I did this and the hub pushed out the ID of the new bearing, ruining it. After getting a new bearing and supporting the ID, it went on but I'm still unsure how far to put the hub into the bearing. I was using a huge hydraulic press so when the gauge showed any pressure we stopped
Oh man. I use a caliper hanger for the caliper, never hit the top of the tie rod stud, use a slide hammer to remove the hub instead of pounding on the back of it with a sledge hammer, since the hub was already out I use an air hammer to PUSH the wheel studs in throgh the back of the hub instead of pulling it throgh by the threads, torque the bearing to its actual PROPER specifications, torque the wheel properly as to not screw up anymore wheel studs all before doing an alignment as the steering knuckle was removed and there is a good chance the camber is not in spec.
That would be the correct way to do things.
But you are wearing sun glasses IN the shop so I guess that's cool...
Anything goes when I grab the tools
I wouldn't take my car to this guy, that's for sure!
السلام على من اتبع الهدى
Why not use torque wrench?
Figure out a way to spin hub while you apply heat evenly with a torch....race will fall right off, then you don't have to worry about messing up a good hub.
Use 1 1/4 inch diameter socket to drive out hub from spindle. After removing wheel hub from bearing : Use hammer & chisel to move bearing away from hub then use OTC 1022 : 2 Jaw puller : Then slide hub on axle shaft backwards & reinstall axle shaft nut only : use 2 jaw puller to pull remaining bearing off hub spindle.
I loved the plastic bag over the sledge - like you're getting ready for a breaking bad box cutter episode
THAT WAY OF WORKING ONLY I CAN SEE IT IN CERTAIN PLACES OF MY COUNTRY PERU, WHERE THE TECHNOLOGY IN TOOLS IS NOT PRESENT AND THE COMMBA AND CINSELES ARE MUCH USED ... BUT THE WORKSHOPS ARE UNDERWAY IMPEDED ... BUT SEE THIS IN AN ENGLISH WORKSHOP I DID NOT WAIT FOR IT, IT LOOKS LIKE "TIO LUCHIN" THAT FOR EVERYTHING EVERYTHING USED A COMBA! THERE ARE MISTAKES THAT OUR FRIEND HAS TO CORRECT, EVEN THANK YOU .....
THIS WAS FILMED IN PERU WITH A DEFIENCIENCY OF TECHNOLOGY
Good job here ya did n from ya home is cool for guy like me who have,2011 Elantra n change out da valve cover exhaust n sparks plug n serpentine belt n PCV JUST IN FEW DAYS . NOW MY CAR HAVE BEEN MAKING VIBRATING NOISE UP FRONT AFTER SPEEDS OF, 60 to 70 MPH. Am wondering if da cv joints r bad
Torque wrenches are for noobs. I liked the video. Oh, for those whose going to put the bearing in without that press..please upload that vid , I want to see. I'll make some popcorn .
I installed the bearing using a bearing press kit, Powerbuilt Alltrade 648741 Kit 27 Front Wheel Drive Bearing Removal and Installation Tool Set; did the job three times on my Mark IV Jetta and now once on my 2014 Elantra GT. The only downside is that just like Lehew, I had to hammer out the hub first since you can only access the bearing from the inside...
Love the slow mo money shots 👍
2:14 Why the bag on the hammer?
the best way to get that bearing out is to hammer it out let me see you guys figure out how to jig it up in the press without total destroying the brake dust backing plate great video thanks
Good point it can be tough to deal with the spindles where the bolts that hold the backing plate on are not accessible after the hub is pressed in. Thanks for watching.
1:46 ! HA ! nope, not on my Accent. Had to pull the knuckel and half shaft complete. Still dont have the hubs off.
Very good speed on repairs, thanks but there is one barbaric method your have used here is the removal of the race from hub. I prefer to use a torch of the race and it falls off the hub in seconds, this will cut some time on your video.
Thanks for watching! The shop I was working at when I filmed this did not allow any type of "hot work" which included torches.
@@LehewTech That could happen, well then at home do this method.
If i may weigh in!! Couple points from doing many front wheel bearings myself and seen damage by different techniques. If you not reusing the bearings then you can hammer out the hub and then cut the outside bearing as he showed or if its not too stuck on use 2 long jimmys either side and lever it off. both ways will not damage hub. However when you replace stud you need to support under the stud if you going to wack it through instead of put one side in vice and leave other end and hammer at that long arm distance can bend hub just 1/2 mm leaving wheel wobble and hub ruined. These are precise items and can be bent even though very strong. Support it!! Dont pound old bearing out as stress on Hub cast is severe and once damaged thats game over. You have press or bolt and drifts for pressing new bearing in, press out old bearing and hub! and clean inside hub and apply little grease then press in carefully straight new bearing till it bottoms on lip on hub and install circlip. install seals if app & Spin and should be totally free unless seals installed which will provide some drag as lips rub on metal. I use a small 1 foot sledge when pound out hub and other times around items that need it only. Dont pound on end of CV shaft or you round the end thread, put nut on or use rubber mallet or smaller punch to hit end. Also if you have variable McPherson bolt positions, mark carefully before removal otherwise the camber will be way off when you re tighten then without knowing how far in or out the strut is when you tighten. You might need to take to shop for $$ realignment but you can buy a small $15 camber gauge from ebay you can attach to wheel to keep adjust till you get both sides same and correct figure. I do everything myself on my car and always use some care and NOT brute force and always remember these may be tempered steel, but they are precision parts and also could fail under stress driving if you wail away with a 1 meter long sledge- consider that!! Final POINT. it ok to use rattle gun to remove CV nut but DO NOT use it to put it on . I tighten with bar and spin bearing to help seat like any other bearing you would do always spin while tighten THEN do final tighten with torque wrench eg 200-300nm and rotate. A rattle gun hammers twisting violently which can be same as short sharp pounding with sledge on those bearings. You may get away with it once but after you go for drive you may get home to discover that wheel is HOT and other wheel cold- Congrats you just ruined your new bearing...
holy crap dude i didnt read your entire essay but im gonna hire you to fix all my cars from now on
Thanks, i can get a bit "wordy" at times but i generally collate good and bad of a dozen videos on the same thing and hi-lite important "safe" points and dont mean to "pick" on one poster's video as i love watching them and learn stuff myself. But IMO just so readers can ask themselves as eg, should i freeze a bearing and torch a hub so the bearing can just pop straight in? Great but now you have stressed/expanded the cast hub? and frozen and cooked bearing grease which has thermal limits? so how will the bearing last/fail now when installed? I dont know if that method is reliable? but old way of pressing in is only way of doing bearing without risking heat damage and is safe and proven way. always use common sense and "book" practises when in doubt on repairing anything.
Timxx3868 I hear you brother thanks for watching
tim thanks for the technical asseeement apreciate all the engineering pointers regarding fatigue and wear, I like Lehew tech videos they use good camera angles and shows all the steps clearly without a bunch of nonsense I subscribed and liked the video....thumbs up
Timxx3868 spindle nut on these do not pre load the bearing just lock the axle to the hub
Listen am a qualified mechanic for 51years an let me tell you to things when ya making a video do the things right don't ever hit the axle like that on the threading use a punch a tap it on the centre an it will move. The other thing u did wrong is the pressing, the spindle head while pressing you turn it while pressing ,if u don't the bearings could be on a strain an it wouldn't last long on the vehicle
Explain please. Turn the spindle head? You mean the hub?
You can change the studs by simply cutting a little bit of the dust shield.
Not on this model you can cut some of the head of the stud off but you can’t get them off with out removing the hub assembly
@@naze158 dude I did replace one stud on the front wheel of 2012 Elantra without removing the hub. It can be done. It is completely idiotic to remove the bearing to replace the 2 little studs.
no bueno. this is why I do my own work. the Thor impression is not how a good mechanic works
I never claimed to be a good mechanic
Are you a master tech?
@@lucaswalker104 yes
@@LehewTech You are nothing.
@@LehewTech LOL
Another reason why i dont let people work on my car...
I would replace the assembly instead of this hassle. Out with old, in with new!
If i only had a press or a gut to scribe the steel, i would do this. On other hand i got dough so i prefer to replace it anyway since you got it out.
They dont sell the full assembly tho for this car.. Its bearing only, from what I seen anyways.
kentaddition True, been looking for a full assembly for months. They sell the knuckle itself on ebay(new). I'll most likely buy a new hub and bearing and just hammer out the old bearing and discard the old hub to avoid cutting the race and just hammer it back in. I hate bearings😑
why would you get a press for taking out the bearing when you just can beat it out and then beat it in? lol
What you do to get the new bearing in without any hassle is put the knuckle in the oven let it get warm and put the bearing in the freezer and once the knuckle is good and warm you just drop the bearing right in without any effort I saw a video of some European guy doing it and tried it myself works like a charm
holy crap that is so bad
im glad i can do this stuff myself
Try not to hit directly on the axle shaft head and other bolts. Place the nut over them and slightly, it will not harm the bolts mean will not deform the bolts and axle shaft.
Yea that's good advice
What purpose does that plastic bag on that hammer serve because it sure isn't protecting the threads if that's what they think is going to happen
The hammer was new and came with the bag on it. I just didnt bother to remove it.
Nicely done. I pressed mine out but it is a PIA with this knuckle. Luckily it's a relatively light press fit!!!
+MudaMotorsport thanks mane! Yea its nice 2 have a big enuff press 2 press out
Trailer mechanic here, this is just like doing bearings on a trailer. wonderful stuff.
Bearings are $25 per, vs $50 for the whole hub unit.
Where can we buy the whole hub unit?
To be able to turn bolts without penetrant and 45 min of torching. Must be lovely! It's a little different in coastal new england
Yea I don't know how you guys stand it up there.
People who hammer on threaded shafts like a tie rod end are the reason, true professionals like myself get thrown under the bus.
You're FIRED
Don’t let Eric O see this video,he will be crying
You are the man! Thanks for sharing.
Can anyone tell me if that nut that holds the wheel bearing in place loosens off to the left or to the right ? Normally things are lefty loosy but some nuts are opposite so they don’t thread back off with say the direction of the wheel spinning.
Lefty loosey on the Hyundai elantra and most other cars out there as well.
@@LehewTech awesome thanks so much !
One day I’m just going to use an old non op car to try all these mechanical techniques and try to learn to save my self some money when my daily cars needs some work.
I think everyone was way too hard on you. Job was done pretty decent and clean and the slow mo shots were a really nice touch.
Just discovered this reality. Would I need to go through all the steps you did here if all I wanted to do was replace one lug bolt? No issues with bearings, etc.
Okay, update time. I used my drimel and created a small U-shaped cut out (smoothed it out with the polisher) in the shield on the inside of the wheel. Just enough and the old lug slide out and the new one in. Took about 25 minutes all in. If all you need to do is replace a broken wheel lug bolt, this might be an option. Obviously not ideal, but I had no other options beyond a tow truck or highly expensive repair I do not need.
Glad you found a solution. I have done similar when a dust shield is in the way.
Know this is old thread but I've done same and even grind down one side of flange on stud if need be to get it to slide past shield or knuckle, for all the OMG I can't believe you would do that comments, save that shit for someone who cares or will listen to the bullshit know it all comments I guarantee more than a few will have. Time is money and I guarantee the people that I do work for would want me to take the quickest easiest route that is perfectly fine and safe, while saving them every dollar possible because the longer i spend and harder I have to work equates to a higher bill for customers and nobody likes a higher bill, so I ask them what and how they want me to do the job and guess what damn near every single customer says, if it isn't going to affect safety by all means slightly grind down edge of flange on stud compared to disassembling entire knuckle and pressing and replacing bearing and etc for a wheel stud. Some shit just isn't feasible, but I would love to hear how I'm wrong. Decent video and many ways to accomplish a task, while I may not agree with all ways people do shit, to each is own.
Is it dangerous to re-use the old hub? People recommend using a new one. Mine is free rust and 154 K miles only.
Hi there can you explain the part where you sawed off the metal? I was going to Ofer the bearing and take it to a machine shop so they can pop it in. The metal cutting throws me off. If you could explain to me that part. Would be great ! Thanks
Two kinds of wheel bearings, pressed-in and bolt-on. This is pressed in. These pressed-in bearings corrode and seize between the inner race of the bearing and the hub. The hub can only come off by pulling it out, and the bearing usually comes off by pressing it in. So, when you try to get the hub off, the bearing will break at the weakest junction, leaving the inner half of the bearing with the hub and the outer half with the knuckle. Surprisingly there isn't really a better way to do that with pressed-in bearings. No matter how you get the hub off the bearing usually grenades. The part you are asking about is the inner race, stuck in the hub. Sometimes you get lucky and can press the inner race off, but often there isn't enough of a lip on the race to grab onto. So, the usual approach is to use a cutting wheel on a grinder and score the inner race. Then you use a cold chisel and try to crack the race. The race is made of hard brittle steel, so it cracks fairly easily. It is very easy to let that grinder slip and damage the hub, sometimes so much that the hub needs to be replaced. Once the race is cracked you can get something behind and pry it off. Application of heat may help to release the inner race. If you're going to take this to a shop, they can do it all, just bring in the hub and knuckle and new wheel bearing. This video is a reminder to use shops that don't mangle your lug bolts, requiring expensive repair....
my car is a hyundai elantra 2017, I have a big problem, every time I go through a gap I hear a strong blow from the right side of the front, I changed the shock absorber (strut), the stabilizer bars, the support arms and even so the coup continues. I don't know what to do anymore. Someone help me please. I went to the dealership, nor did they find the problem
How not too replace bearing. That will fail in 5000 miles. Not torqued properly.
Why can't we have front bearing and hub pre pressed. Which just need to be bolted to existing knuckle with say 4 bolts. No special 🔧 needed.
Or u can do it the easy and correct way with a front end bearing press.
Not every body\shop has one or wants to buy one
is this elantra the same as the 1997 tiburon
Negative comments usually from the worst offenders. A "brake mechanic" bad mouthed other mechanics in his shop while working on my car, he finishes my brakes, I drive away, brakes lose pressure when stress testing them, drive 5 miles back very slowly, brake cylinder BLEW OUT since he screwed up the job, he wanted to charge me for a NEW brake cylinder, his manager said the repair is free since the mechanic screwed up. I was luck I was not KILLED in an accident!
Nice job, easy to learn... yes a couple of things could improve, but you still did an awesome job... thanks for posting ....
Thanks brother
Is there enough room to remove and put a new stud in without cutting the metal shield for 2005 Elantra?
James Chuaycham ป้อม ศักดิ์ชัย Yes James I bent the metal shield out of place to put the stud in then I bent it back in its no big deal just make sure it’s not rubbing against anything when you push it back into place
You used the old bearing to press it in wrong... should have the side with the inner race missing facing the new bearing... You just pressed the new bearing in by the inner race...
Thanks for the video. It is nice to see video of problems that you can encounter on a job!
You can't see all the problems he caused by hammering on the CV axle and not using a torque wrench for the CV nut. This is scary
This is hilariously put together (the video) with the speed ups and slow downs. Cracks me up each time it happens.
As clean as the under side of that car is, here in michigan that car would have been about 2.5 hours off the assembly line.
I need to do this on my 2014 Elantra. Is there a way to replace the wheel bearing as an entire unit so I don't have to get the bearing pressed on? Local parts store says no.
Unless you replace the entire spindle you have to press that bearing in. You can buy a used spindle cheaply, but the danger is that it may also have a bad wheel bearing.
Yeah, I was looking at that. A local garage here said they would do it for $230. So I'm just going to let them do it.
Noob asking, 0:52 why did you use that special type screwdriver here ? Why not regular one? :)
Good question, the impact driver I used is essential for breaking loose the screws. If you attempted this with a normal screwdriver it may strip the head or slip out with the high torque needed to break it loose
@@LehewTech thanks... i see...its an impact driver... im wondering ...could it be done with a electric impact driver without doing any harm?
You are welcome to try however you are likely to strip the head of the screw. Good luck!
There's nothing i hate more than handing money to a Mechanic!
I would almost rather set it on fire....
I love that i have a guy that i can go to, just to do the heavy stuff, like pressing bearings and torching some real nasty stuck bolts.
I do 90% in my driveway, but when it comes to specialty jobs like swapping out bearings, he charges me a very reasonable amount to finish it off.
Plus I always pay in cash, because i believe he pockets the money to fund his Vicodin habit.
LOL
Thinking about do the same thing with my wheel bearings swap. How much does your mechanic charge and in what state so I have and idea of how much to pay. thanks
Is the elantra the same a 2010 sonata on the wheel bearing change
So why the plastic bag on your mini sledge?
For some reason the timing of slo-mo and speeding up editing made me laugh my ass off. I'm probably just weird.
Satisfaction right thur
What size was the hub bolt
So you took off the 2 bolts from the strut, how about the camber you ruin it even a little movement you damage the camber adjustments
Yea you can mark it so you put it back together the same way. You should do an alignment either way.
Thanks for the vid, I learned a lot. I can't seem to find any how-to videos by all the negative commenters.
Yea brother thanks for watching
Does anyone know what size wrench is used for the ball joint?
Your not going to torque the axle but for the preload?
What size of socket in yhe middle?
I feel like there's a lot of unnecessary stuff done in this video
Like killing snakes
Way too many parts replacers posing as Technicians out there.
The guy had access to a press the entire time yet spent more time beating the crap out of the hub to get the old one out
No doubt hitting the wheel stud damaging the threads.Charging the customer I'll bet.
And hitting the drive axle with a steel sledge you csn cause the axles end to chip off.
Anyone who feels they need to use a sledgehammer to do most of the work shouldn't be near someones else's automobile.
How tight does the centre nut have to be?
And you just ruined it with that impact gun
If you know how to use an impact it’s not a problem
Why in the hell would you hammer anything out when you you have a press??
The ball joint wouldn't free spin when trying to tighten if you didn't smash the threads when you hit it with the hammer. Good video overall. Thanks for your effort.
A plastic bag over the sledge is always better than a soft metal mallet
But really..he does show that it can be partly done on a vise...and there is some bearing install tools to rent if one doesn't have access to a press. .
Let me put it this way, I wouldn't let you touch my car with a 10ft pole. That's not how you tighten the CV nut...
He could touch my car with his pole anytime :-) wait...what? hahaha
Not saying I like his skills however the the AXLE nut tightening is fine
You're suppose to tighten the axle nut to the specific torque the manufacture specifies. Usually between 115 to 210 ft lbs to prevent premature wear on the wheel bearings. But this is how they make so much money on repeat customers when parts fail early! Scotty Kilmer, Chrisfix, and ETCG are the very reason I don't let these kind of people touch my cars! Lol
Yea I've seen many cars with failed bearings that have new axles installed that were probably overtorqued. That said, Your hero ETCG has a video where he uses an impact to install a CV axle nut. In reality when you do this kind of work every day you don't have time to be autistic about torquing everything you touch with a torque wrench. Some of us know the power of the tools we use every day and know how to hit the sweet spot. Some of us dont. Dont like to gamble? Only option is to fix your car yourself and I wish you luck with that.
Lehew Tech I have and do to this day! This weekend as a matter of a fact, I replaced the radiator with new hoses on my 05 Buick century for under 100.00 and with new dexcool. Hours spent were 3. Most shops quoted me between 400 to 650 to do the job in as early as 3 days!
Good job, but you put the lug nuts on with an impact wrench? That is what makes them go bad in the first place. PLEASE HAND TORQUE!
+InHocSigno These studs broke from someone cross-threading them. Thanks for watching
InHocSigno
Hand tq on lug nuts ? Have fun chasing your wheels down the road lol
thestig572420 think he means with a torque wrench instead of an impact
As long as they aren't cross threaded and the gun is set to less than 100 ft-lb, they'll be ok. Unfortunately some mechanics dont bother to be careful--i had a shop over tighten mine and then studs started breaking off--but that's why I'm the only one that puts wheels on my vehicles anymore.
thestig572420 lol you kids believe anything. Been doing this kind of work since 1970 and never torque wheels and have never lost one. Not even on my tractor trailers
Holaa.. Que código de rodaje es?
Old mechanic here... I have done them before... but dam I’m not doing this in my drive way... my back would be killing me!!
As a master technician....dude, I would kick you out of the shop. You are an insult to every pro out there.
You sound like you turn 30 hours a week
What should a job like this cost on average friend asked me to help a relative out I'm gonna charge em but I don't know where to base this out I usually do other crap like tune ups and oil changes brake jobs I've done my own bearings so I know what I'm doing but what's a fair price point for a shop
I got this done on my maxima
This sucks. Broken stud on our Veloster and we have to do this same job. Thanks for the video!
do you have to replace the race when replacing the wheel bearing?
Yes you replace the entire bearing which has two races in it
Is the wheel bearing race already on the wheel bearing?
the wheel bearing i got it was, but was told their are some out there (cheaper ones) that you put together.
Yes for this vehicle you get a wheel bearing "unit" which is actually composed of two bearings in one assembly. If you reuse the hub you will have to cut the race off of the hub.
Thanks for clearing that up. I ordered the Front Wheel bearing kit which includes a new hub, bearing, and clip. I don't want to muck around with a grinder on someone elses vehicle.
I've changed the front bearings on my MK IV Jetta three times so far and the process is similar...however, I used the Harbour Freight wheel bearing adapters kit. Do you think that it'll work for an Elantra?
Tried, it, it works, but not for hub removal from the bearing, only for bearing removal from the knuckle and bearing installation into the knuckle and hub installation into the bearing. To remove the hub from the bearing, I had to wail on it with the sledge hammer...
Omg that car would be knackered after getting hammered on the bearing and axle without using proper tools.
You're an amateur. I can't ever let someone work on my car lest with an unprofessional work of yours done on my car.
Now I have someone to do this, If I buy the parts. It looks like I'll get new hubs with the bearings. It should save on labor! And why not do the ball joints at the same time.
+Daniel Malloy yea boss
What year Elantra?
2013
Great job in video, audio and explanation it helped me immensely
Very helpful video, Thanks!
Hope it helped
What's up with the hammer condom?
It was a brand new hammer and I didn't bother to remove the plastic on it
what is the name of your shop?
Funny I was wondering about the hammer condom as well.that explains it LOL.
+Pat Keller Wrap it b4 u tap it
You should use a shop press to remove the old bearing.
+Basel Omar I would but the press isn't wide enough for the hub to drop down
Altenator
Good video but you should really be torqueing the lugs to spec so you don't warp the rotor. Also, the axle nut but for different reasons. Why didn't you press the bearing out with the hydraulic press instead of banging it out with a hammer?
The work platform of the hydraulic press is too narrow for the hub to fit so there is no clearance for it to be pressed out. Axle nut spec is a bit over 200ftlbs, id say im about there. The lugs got torqued 2 spec when I set the car on the ground.
you dont torque on the lift....... come on Trevor!
Unless you got Torque sticks, i love those things!
That's fine, but might be worth noting to people who don't know what they're doing.
Good point Trevor I made a note in the description.
Really hope that he did an alignment on that?
dude knows his shit
Yeah I'll just do the hub assembly, all these extra steps can be avoided.
This is no hub assembly for the front.
why do u put a plastic on your hammer?
It was a new hammer and I didn't bother to remove the plastic that came with it.
Haha, i was wondering too!
How could you recognize the genuine Wheel Bearing for Elantra 2014, Genuine Parts Made in Hyundai not even Koria
Anyone near Orlando that can teach me how to fix my own wheel? I have a 2016 Hyundai Tucson that sounds as if I am falling asleep am hitting those little thingies on the side of the highway.
Things it could be:
- Bad tire/lumpy tire/something stuck in your tire
- warped rotor
- bad wheel bearing
- stuck brake caliper
But, hopefully you've gotten it fixed by now haha.
So this is why it cost close to a $1000 or more to replace?
Are you at a dealership or in your backyard????
I'm at a shop in Sabancuy Mexico
what the f**k ???!!! Hammering the bearing out of a new car ? what year is that 1994 ... where is the wheel bearing kit or the ton-press