Bought a 2005 with about 120,000 km (about 72,000 miles). Interior, body and undercarriage in great shape. However had the dreaded broken yellow valve spring about 2 months into ownership. (valve hung slightly open and with no compression in that cylinder the engine vibrated wildly). I replaced all the valve springs, valve seals and spark plugs. Anyone that test drives a CTS-V and it vibrates, definitely have a mechanic jack the engine up slightly - if the motor moves up on that side then the motor mount is separated and the mounts need to be replaced. If the car has stock motor mounts in good shape its virtually vibration free. A Cadillac dealer mechanic took 6 hours to replace the motor mounts on mine so make sure you have them tested before you buy the car $$. Also after replacing the diff bushings the car should have a 4 wheel alignment. Last tip is to use weed whipper line to clean out all 4 sunroof drains. Look at the roof liner above your head when you sit in the back seat. Any staining of the headliner can indicate a blocked sunroof drain. The end section of the rear sunroof drains can be seen by removing the side trunk liner if you need to access them to clean them out. If you park a CTS-V and there are any car guys around they will come over and ask you about the car lol. Gas mileage in town is horrific especially if you launch it frequently (guilty) but good on the highway in 6th gear (25 US mpg). Good hunting (fwiw I looked for years and found no 2006 or 2007 cars for sale.. only 2004 and 2005)
Any troubleshooting tips on finding the reason for the "service stabilizer system" message? I have heard everything from wheel sensors to steering wheel position sensor...
Dude! This video was perfect to show up on my timeline. Just confirmed today I’m buying a 2004 CTS-V, 46k miles, stock except for shifter. This video made me so excited, also very informational, now I gotta find that wing!
I bought a 2004 CTS-V in 2009 with 40,000 miles for $20K. Sold the factory nav unit out of it for $1,800 and replaced it with a different radio that cost $400. So all in $18,600. Sold it in 2019 with 85,000 miles for $18,500 with no radio. No modifications but I did replace all mounts and bought a set of tires in there at one point. I did keep the car very very clean / great condition. For some reason I think I just get lucky on cars. The one before that was a 1990 Mazda RX7 Turbo with 45,000 miles I paid $6,300 for in 1999 and sold it for $7,800 with over 100k miles in 2009. Wish I had kept it as it was pristine and would probably be well over $20k. Now own a CT4-V Blackwing I just bought this year new to use while waiting on a CT5-V Blackwing (Manual, woohoo!) on order since last August. I expect to lose considerably on those but at least got them at MSRP. Nice video. Brings back a few memories.
Thanks for checking in! I had a RX7 in high school. Loved that car. Mine was an '88. Love the fact you are back in a caddy! I was cross shopping the ct4 blackwing with the BMW I bought. Love the blackwings. Did not want to spend the coin however.
FYI when you do the mounts and headers do these. 1. Wrap the alternator wire in heat protection. 2. Wrap the starter wire, and make sure the plug isn’t crumbling due to heat. If so replace with a truck starter and put an o terminal instead of the plastic connector. 3. Lower temp thermostat.
I found I didn't need a lower temp thermostat. After installing a DeWitts radiator and an LSA water pump in preparation for a supercharger, I found that my highway cruise speeds on the hottest days put my temp at 192°, and at the colder days 188° never really going over 206° at idle with the AC running. OP should definitely look at replacing the harmonic balancer if he hasn't yet. Not only do they wobble after a while, but the outer ring can break loose and spin on the pulley with little effort.
Got my 05 with 42k miles almost 3 years ago for 15k. Already had LTH and Corsa exhaust. Guy didn't know what he had. I get reemed on insurance too. Although its still not bad for being under 25. I think I pay a little under 3k a year.
@@PerformanceOnWheels Yeah its crazy money for it. Got pretty lucky. The long tubes were kooks which are insane amount of money. I put a cam in a couple months ago. When your in the market for a cam BTR 3 I highly recommend.
@@deathrager2404 at the time of the comment yes im under 25, insurance was around 190 a month so for a year would be $2280 not including anything other than insurance
Great vid very helpful I just bought a 2004 for good price with rebuilt cammed LS6 - new clutch - new complete rear diff - new coil overs wheels tires - short throw - five lug conversion - don't know why that is a thing on these - original 6 lug - can't just be for wheel selection ????
I have no idea. Maybe they thought it would help with power? No idea. They did on the sts v and the XLR v as well. Check out my most recent video on mine I just put out!
It’s good… but it’s still a big sedan. Without heavily modifying the suspension it’s a little boaty but with the right mods they make amazing track cars
@@PerformanceOnWheels I know right! The guy I bought my v from had a c5 right next to it. So of course I had to hear it out of curiosity, such a noticeable difference.
Picked up an ‘05 with 123K miles on it about three months ago. If anything, this makes me feel like I was even more fortunate to find it in such good shape and so close by. It was about a 3 hour drive from Austin to go get it. Absolutely love the car, although the fact that you mentioned the clunk in the clutch pedal makes me think that I probably have that issue with my bushings..
I'd bring it to a shop. However I'd bring up to them the book time Is not correct. You do not have to drop the rear cradle to replace the bushing you just need to pull out one sides suspension to pull the diff out.
@@PerformanceOnWheels that’s an epic offer man. I would definitely take you up on that!! I’ve also been doing a lot of research on wheel hop and the differential situation, so I’m also looking forward to your upgrades to assist your diff - i will likely follow in your footsteps!
I'd join the CTS-V1 VS THE WORLD Group on Facebook. Otherwise look every single day on the cregslist app, it takes time but drag your location to every single part of the country to find one! It may take a while but that's how to do it!
@@PerformanceOnWheels Appreciate it, I did plan on doing that but I figured I’d ask beforehand, in this market what do you think I should be paying? Do you think 10-18k is enough to get into a decent V?
16-28 it's gone up alot. Anything under 16 is going to be a pile at this point unless you come across a gem. Anything over 20 should be pretty sold good shape somewhat low miles. I'd say Mines 23-25k condition
I'm going to actually start my channel off videos of it and building it!! People are telling me that I'm crazy that I want to make a drift car out of it
Rear diff, and motor mounts go bad 99% of the time around 60k miles... I also had driveshaft, and radiator/cooling issues. It's a fun car but not that well engineered.
To be fair, as a lexus toyota owner, same shit happens on our side of things. Cooling issues here n there, replaced my mounts recently. Its all how u drive the car i think, unless u own a german junkard lol
I got tired of waiting for Mark to actually make the brace instead of constantly teasing it on the fb groups. So I've decided to go 8.8 simply out of spite. If you don't do burnouts and drag strip launches, the stock diff holds up fine.
That was a great buy. I’m looking at a 2004 with 18,000 miles. Has LT headers, magma flow exhaust and a short shifter. Car is perfect. Should be for $29,900
Do you plan to own or already own a CTS-V?
Bought a 2005 with about 120,000 km (about 72,000 miles). Interior, body and undercarriage in great shape. However had the dreaded broken yellow valve spring about 2 months into ownership. (valve hung slightly open and with no compression in that cylinder the engine vibrated wildly). I replaced all the valve springs, valve seals and spark plugs. Anyone that test drives a CTS-V and it vibrates, definitely have a mechanic jack the engine up slightly - if the motor moves up on that side then the motor mount is separated and the mounts need to be replaced. If the car has stock motor mounts in good shape its virtually vibration free. A Cadillac dealer mechanic took 6 hours to replace the motor mounts on mine so make sure you have them tested before you buy the car $$. Also after replacing the diff bushings the car should have a 4 wheel alignment. Last tip is to use weed whipper line to clean out all 4 sunroof drains. Look at the roof liner above your head when you sit in the back seat. Any staining of the headliner can indicate a blocked sunroof drain. The end section of the rear sunroof drains can be seen by removing the side trunk liner if you need to access them to clean them out. If you park a CTS-V and there are any car guys around they will come over and ask you about the car lol. Gas mileage in town is horrific especially if you launch it frequently (guilty) but good on the highway in 6th gear (25 US mpg). Good hunting (fwiw I looked for years and found no 2006 or 2007 cars for sale.. only 2004 and 2005)
Any troubleshooting tips on finding the reason for the "service stabilizer system" message? I have heard everything from wheel sensors to steering wheel position sensor...
What is the code the car is throwing?
Both of those could be accurate yes
@@PerformanceOnWheels C0196 Yaw rate circuit malfunction
My 04 CTS has 300,000 miles n still rolling ❤
That's incredible!
@@PerformanceOnWheels yes, it saved me a lot of money
My 04 has 220,000 and it runs like a champ. Just got to change spark plugs
Dude! This video was perfect to show up on my timeline. Just confirmed today I’m buying a 2004 CTS-V, 46k miles, stock except for shifter. This video made me so excited, also very informational, now I gotta find that wing!
Glad you liked it! I found mine on Ebay
I bought a 2004 CTS-V in 2009 with 40,000 miles for $20K. Sold the factory nav unit out of it for $1,800 and replaced it with a different radio that cost $400. So all in $18,600. Sold it in 2019 with 85,000 miles for $18,500 with no radio. No modifications but I did replace all mounts and bought a set of tires in there at one point. I did keep the car very very clean / great condition. For some reason I think I just get lucky on cars. The one before that was a 1990 Mazda RX7 Turbo with 45,000 miles I paid $6,300 for in 1999 and sold it for $7,800 with over 100k miles in 2009. Wish I had kept it as it was pristine and would probably be well over $20k. Now own a CT4-V Blackwing I just bought this year new to use while waiting on a CT5-V Blackwing (Manual, woohoo!) on order since last August. I expect to lose considerably on those but at least got them at MSRP. Nice video. Brings back a few memories.
Thanks for checking in! I had a RX7 in high school. Loved that car. Mine was an '88. Love the fact you are back in a caddy! I was cross shopping the ct4 blackwing with the BMW I bought. Love the blackwings. Did not want to spend the coin however.
You lost about $9000
FYI when you do the mounts and headers do these.
1. Wrap the alternator wire in heat protection.
2. Wrap the starter wire, and make sure the plug isn’t crumbling due to heat. If so replace with a truck starter and put an o terminal instead of the plastic connector.
3. Lower temp thermostat.
Yup! Did all of that except replacing the starter
I found I didn't need a lower temp thermostat. After installing a DeWitts radiator and an LSA water pump in preparation for a supercharger, I found that my highway cruise speeds on the hottest days put my temp at 192°, and at the colder days 188° never really going over 206° at idle with the AC running.
OP should definitely look at replacing the harmonic balancer if he hasn't yet. Not only do they wobble after a while, but the outer ring can break loose and spin on the pulley with little effort.
Got my 05 with 42k miles almost 3 years ago for 15k. Already had LTH and Corsa exhaust. Guy didn't know what he had. I get reemed on insurance too. Although its still not bad for being under 25. I think I pay a little under 3k a year.
I wanted to get corsa for my car... but I simply couldn't push myself to spend over 2 grand on exhaust. I bet it sounds amazing
@@PerformanceOnWheels Yeah its crazy money for it. Got pretty lucky. The long tubes were kooks which are insane amount of money. I put a cam in a couple months ago. When your in the market for a cam BTR 3 I highly recommend.
3 thousand a year..... dude lmao
@@deathrager2404 at the time of the comment yes im under 25, insurance was around 190 a month so for a year would be $2280 not including anything other than insurance
@@LS57v1lmfaoo I pay 1700 every 6 months for my v2 💔
Great vid very helpful I just bought a 2004 for good price with rebuilt cammed LS6 - new clutch - new complete rear diff - new coil overs wheels tires - short throw - five lug conversion - don't know why that is a thing on these - original 6 lug - can't just be for wheel selection ????
I have no idea. Maybe they thought it would help with power? No idea. They did on the sts v and the XLR v as well. Check out my most recent video on mine I just put out!
th-cam.com/video/XywyOH87uR0/w-d-xo.html
Austin. The Caddie is looking and sounding great.
Thanks Alex!
Sick man, picked up my third V1 last week, 2007 with 48k miles
That's awesome! What did you get it for?
@@PerformanceOnWheels a steal 13.5
That's amazing! Great find!
I have an 05 ls6 cts-v. Just ordered a creative steal 8.8 410 gear and new suspension. Looking to upgrade the motor, clutch and transmission next
Big $$$$ will be awesome when it's done!
@@PerformanceOnWheels more money than I expected! But cars cost. Any suggestions for upgrades motor wise?
Haha definitely depends what your going for. For NA I'd do BTR stage 3 heads and a fast 102 manifold.
Or I'd do the same with an LSA on top
@@PerformanceOnWheels thanks. Was gonna go boost but bought another car lol. So I'm just looking for a fun street car with some good hp
Alot of people run the btr 3 with heads and supporting mods. Makes great power and is reliable
Im looking for a v2 .
I bought a stock 2010 CTS-V! Love it, would like to buy a V1 as a driver!
You should do it! I'd love to daily mime and get a vette. Just not realistic in the climate I live in however
10:45
How good it was in the track.
I think it beat everything but the vette.
I’m not sure but it was doing amazing on the track when it came out.
It’s good… but it’s still a big sedan. Without heavily modifying the suspension it’s a little boaty but with the right mods they make amazing track cars
Just found ur channel. Enjoying it.
Glad you like it :)
I’m looking to buy a cts 2003 3.2, is it a rilliable car?
Crazy how different these cars sound based on people’s exhast set ups. I got mine on a full corsa setup and my shit sounds terrifying. 2004
I would agree. Also crazy how different they sound in the corvette vs the cts
@@PerformanceOnWheels I know right! The guy I bought my v from had a c5 right next to it. So of course I had to hear it out of curiosity, such a noticeable difference.
I have a c5 z06 now. They don’t even sound like the same motor
I have a 11 cts 3.0 blk on blk trying to get rid of it
That car sounds amazing!
You should hear it after I redid the whole exhaust 🤤
Picked up an ‘05 with 123K miles on it about three months ago. If anything, this makes me feel like I was even more fortunate to find it in such good shape and so close by. It was about a 3 hour drive from Austin to go get it. Absolutely love the car, although the fact that you mentioned the clunk in the clutch pedal makes me think that I probably have that issue with my bushings..
It's very very common, I'd adress that immediately. Will just be more expensive if you push it further. Do you feel confident doing it yourself?
@@PerformanceOnWheels I do NOT feel confident in doing it myself lol.
I'd bring it to a shop. However I'd bring up to them the book time Is not correct. You do not have to drop the rear cradle to replace the bushing you just need to pull out one sides suspension to pull the diff out.
I'll put out a video soon about the progress on mine
So do you think I need to find a smaller shop to be able to have that kind of input, to where I can try and suggest how they need to do it?
Another Minnesotan here! I’m looking to purchase my own V next year.
Awesome! Your more than welcome to come check mine out anytime if your interested in buying one just to see it and drive it
@@PerformanceOnWheels that’s an epic offer man. I would definitely take you up on that!! I’ve also been doing a lot of research on wheel hop and the differential situation, so I’m also looking forward to your upgrades to assist your diff - i will likely follow in your footsteps!
Shoot me an email Performanceonwheels111@gmail.com and I'll give you my number thru there
Just don’t burn rubber in a straight line and it won’t hop.
Sideways it is
I just brought one two days ago and I need to timing chain with 163000 miles for 2300
The time in chain cost more than a car worth I should’ve just left it sitting there lol
Ufdah.... Sounds like a steal to me.
I’m looking at a cheaper stock one with 216k miles. Worth it for 6-7k?
If it’s had good maintenance history and is not rusted out.. do it!
Ok,so what were the mufflers and xpipe that you bought on Amazon?
Hooker aero chambers. Just look up 2.5 inch xpipe
Can you tell me what steering wheel you upgraded to on the V ?
i have a 07 cts-v and i haven't' spent anything on it over 2 years
And my uncle was tryna tell me gm motors was junk 🤦♂️ I’m not buying no damn mustang
Where did you find it for sale?! I cant find any whatsoever for sale online
I'd join the CTS-V1 VS THE WORLD Group on Facebook. Otherwise look every single day on the cregslist app, it takes time but drag your location to every single part of the country to find one! It may take a while but that's how to do it!
@@PerformanceOnWheels Appreciate it, I did plan on doing that but I figured I’d ask beforehand, in this market what do you think I should be paying? Do you think 10-18k is enough to get into a decent V?
16-28 it's gone up alot. Anything under 16 is going to be a pile at this point unless you come across a gem. Anything over 20 should be pretty sold good shape somewhat low miles. I'd say Mines 23-25k condition
Your going to struggling immensely to find body panels for it. I would be more worried about fixing the body of one than the drivetrain
What company did you get the badges from
I put the link in the description of the video
I just paid 2300 for my 07 that was a repo in St cloud MN lol
Wow that’s probably up there in the cheapest ones ever sold
I'm going to actually start my channel off videos of it and building it!! People are telling me that I'm crazy that I want to make a drift car out of it
There’s many that have done it! Do it! Just make sure you upgrade that diff to and 8.8!
That’s the perfect 4 door drift car lol, just needs better suspension,driveshaft and differential
Gorgeous V brother I’m in the market for a CTS V with the LS2!
You will love it!
Rear diff, and motor mounts go bad 99% of the time around 60k miles... I also had driveshaft, and radiator/cooling issues. It's a fun car but not that well engineered.
Once there all taken care of... it's great!
To be fair, as a lexus toyota owner, same shit happens on our side of things. Cooling issues here n there, replaced my mounts recently. Its all how u drive the car i think, unless u own a german junkard lol
@@adamdistortion8810every car has something.
Parts sources please can you share this - labels - grill trim
What do you mean by thr grill trim? The part that's on the hood or the whole grill itself?
To clarify - the trim you bought for the grill may have been only top and grill itself source - that and labels please sir
I got tired of waiting for Mark to actually make the brace instead of constantly teasing it on the fb groups.
So I've decided to go 8.8 simply out of spite.
If you don't do burnouts and drag strip launches, the stock diff holds up fine.
I got mine in from him, I haven't really driven it since however it's off getting tuned at the moment
What company so I stay away from them
@@chrisreynolds2410 creative steel
Stay far away.
I've got all creative steel bushings in my car? They have been fantastic. I need to put out another video on it since I did everything
@@PerformanceOnWheels dude is a troll
original V1 owner here, won't sell it
Damn that’s a good deal 14 k , I’m looking for one can’t find one state to state
Anyone here know where I can find one good deal ??
Just keep searching Craigslist
I paid 5k for my 05 with a dropped valve so think I did okay
Sounds like you did!
That was a great buy. I’m looking at a 2004 with 18,000 miles. Has LT headers, magma flow exhaust and a short shifter. Car is perfect. Should be for $29,900
Yeah I've talked to the guy who owns that in the fourms. Definitely in amazing shape
Think it’s worth it?
I don't know about 30k. I'd try to get him down to mid 20s. I mean your just a few thousand away from a 50k mile v2 at that point
Thanks man. Appreciate it
No problem
What’s the exahaust
Coustom
Sounds like you NEED new mufflers as well!!!!
Exhaust has been fully redone since
Yea but ur not going to spend that every year
Sure hope not!
New M3's are selling for 80k, I'd say you got a way better deal
About 8k