Dude! That was the best most informative mechanical y tube I've seen. Excellent editing no dialogue! All the notes shares are saying I can't rebuild my engine just to put another one in there but this video was inspiring and very informative great job sir!
Love the 22R. My cousin had an 80s Toyota 2WD 5 speed truck we tuned up and put some Cragar mags on. He used to beat V8s in stop light drags. Back then they didn't have the performance parts like they do today so we had to get creative.
In Australia we never got the 22R engine in the toyota celica and it wss not until the mid 1990s that we got the 22R in the toyota hilux (pick up ) and fortunately l own a 1997 hilux the final year of the 22R motor by the way very nice celica and the engine a work of art besides the 22R engine is an incredible engine to start woth
@@ronnycheav3484 Yes, a big plate of patience, with an extra side helping of more patience. I used Deutsch and Mil DTL-38999 connectors for everything I made. instagram.com/p/CEhrTUHHNBB/?
My uncle built 20 R truck engine with 485 lift cam pop ups and just dynoed it .90 horse at back wheels 140 ft pounds tork but max rpm was 2500 torque band stock heads were supposed to support 6500 with cam but has stock rockers stock spec is 1.55 americans being 1.4 for smog 1 person hinted ford roller rockers cant find any thing about it exept never designed high performance rocker train and with most you need a performance intake hes got a big webber on it. Think it might be stock intake?
Is this just a setup to get me in trouble with my wife......or is this my wife???? Suspect...hahaha Mine is a lot of in house work, but it's basically the same thing as if you purchased a Stage 5 engine from LC Engineering, I think they are around $9-$10K now.
hey nice build! im wondering do you have a lambda sensor in the exhaust? or do you plan on getting one installed? i have a stock 20r paired with msd 6al & weber 40dcoe and im looking for the best options for my exhaust. (daily driver no track time) I was thinking about getting the full exhaust side fabricated because the stock one is pretty rusty. should i use my flowtech header and weld a o2 bung in it or get it fabricated fully through? or is the stock exhaust good enough since I have the stock 20r and save my gauge for the future. (I have the carb airflow meter already)
My exhaust is custom and I have provisions for a lambda sensor, however I run leaded fuel which significantly shortens sensor life. So I do not run the sensor unless tuning. I would recommend upgrading the exhaust no matter what, as the factory 20-30+ year old exhaust is for sure not as good as a budget customer exhaust today.
Badass!! I just built my 20R head with an lce stage 3 cam, bigger valves and slight port work. Paired with a .040 over block with stock (notched) 22R ridged pistons & stock rods with a 38 Webber on the intake. What kind of power do you think I’ll pull out of this? Currently doing break in miles so I can’t romp on it yet but I’ll take it to the dyno soon. I was shooting for 150ish and after seeing this stage 5 at 175hp I’m questioning if I should have gone up a size on the cam lol
It'll feel great! 150ish isn't a bad estimate, but I'd suspect you'll be closer to the 140ish (not that that's a huge difference. I've got a few things to address on my engine to get some more HP. Found out the valve guides are worn to the point that they definitely affect performance. Going back together later this year and should see some good solid gains, maybe 190ish.
Beautiful work! Lc engineering is expensive but there quality is top notch! Eventually you're gonna have to go efi for reliability power and tuning! Good luck man keep making these videos amazing!
Thank you! I greatly appreciate the positivity! I have to say these Mikuni's have been completely reliable. Once tuned they do no need re-adjustment ever. In all my 15 years of driving them, I had a float go bad, and an accelerator diaphragm leak. Otherwise they have started and run great every time. EFI would (in particular spark management) definitely be a big increase of overall power under the curve for sure, but I don't think I'll go that route with this car.
looks like your piston squish area is just above deck,i stumbled on a 22r block milled .042,my pistons end up .006 above deck,think this will be streetable as far as compression and timing chain tension?stoxk 20r head
@@me9174 Depends on pistons, cam, and how much the head has been milled. Are your pistons flat, dished, or domed, and if domed or dishes do you know the CC's of the dish/dome?
Well, the 20R head does flow better at higher RPM, just get some nice piston's to go with it for that extra bang. Don't go over 10:1 CR unless you want to run race gas. These hemi chambers are not the best at preventing pre-ignition, so you need a little buffer room. With most engines 10.5:1 is the limit of pump gas (93), but with hemi chambers it's a little less. Other than that, clean the crap out of everything and assembly with great attention to detail! Good luck!
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing I'm not catching the drift on the hemi chambers!. but thankyou for the advice, I guess most of the parts are going to cost decent cash so will probably do it once I've got everything together and probably finished my sr20VE hybrid.
Awesome build! I’m newer to the whole scene but quick question. Would an efi build be more stronger after of course a full build. Internals, ported head, upgraded ecu/harness , bigger injectors and set up drive train ect.
hello good video thank you very much, will you know the difference between flat and convex pistons in 22r engine? I need to know 🙏 my car requires poan pistons and by mistake I bought convex ones 😭
The Dome Pistons the ones with the round bump on the top are for the early model 22r engine the flat top piston style is for the peanut chamber late model Style and that has a shorter deck height the engine block is a lot shorter so domed pistons won't be able to be used in that style of engine block the engine you saw in that video is the early style 22R Toyota engine hope this helps
In the middle of a similar build and found your video because I am having issues with the cam timing on my 20/22R hybrid. Did you use a standard 22 or 20 timing chain? On our build if we set the timing and turn the engine over the marks are not staying where it should
It is a standard length double row timing chain. You will need an adjustable timing gear to get it dialed in correctly. I have a spare LC Engineering double row adjustable gear if you don't mind buying a used one in good condition.
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing We bought LE timing gear but haven't adjusted it yet. We weren't sure which of the three different timing options was the correct one. (Standard, Race 1, Race 2). Just the fact that turning the engine over a few times by hand and not having the timing marks coming back right was so weird we started looking to make sure we didn't make a mistake somewhere else
@@LoudGuitar14 They are all the same, they are basically just places to save a reference number for specific tracks. So you can quickly determine what you baseline was for that track. Realistically it's redundant as you have actual timing marks.
Dude! That was the best most informative mechanical y tube I've seen. Excellent editing no dialogue! All the notes shares are saying I can't rebuild my engine just to put another one in there but this video was inspiring and very informative great job sir!
Love the 22R. My cousin had an 80s Toyota 2WD 5 speed truck we tuned up and put some Cragar mags on. He used to beat V8s in stop light drags. Back then they didn't have the performance parts like they do today so we had to get creative.
In Australia we never got the 22R engine in the toyota celica and it wss not until the mid 1990s that we got the 22R in the toyota hilux (pick up ) and fortunately l own a 1997 hilux the final year of the 22R motor by the way very nice celica and the engine a work of art besides the 22R engine is an incredible engine to start woth
I love this build ❤️ one of a kind
Sounds great! I cant decide hybrid or 2rz for my 74 ra21. Very nice
Work of art. 👏🏼
Nice. I have a baby built hybrid with sidedrafts.
Love it Sir! Maybe I'll make it to Mich. Gonna try!
❤❤❤❤ can’t wait to hear this thing run again Johnnie!!! When do you plan on tracking it again?
Just posted a new dyno run video! Within a month or two I hope to be back on track.
Awesome content keep up the great work!!
Hi there's, Nice motor set up im going to same route like your set up.I was just curious what kinda motor mount you use.
I run LC Engineering pro mounts.
Thanks u for the info,I'm new in to this built.
@@ronnycheav3484 If you go with the LCE mounts, buy a couple extra poly bushings, they need to be replaced every couple years.
How about wiring any tips on that.
@@ronnycheav3484 Yes, a big plate of patience, with an extra side helping of more patience. I used Deutsch and Mil DTL-38999 connectors for everything I made.
instagram.com/p/CEhrTUHHNBB/?
My uncle built 20 R truck engine with 485 lift cam pop ups
and just dynoed it .90 horse at back wheels 140 ft pounds tork
but max rpm was 2500 torque band stock heads were supposed to support
6500 with cam but has stock rockers stock spec is 1.55
americans being 1.4 for smog
1 person hinted ford roller rockers
cant find any thing about it exept never designed high performance rocker train
and with most you need a performance intake hes got a big webber on it.
Think it might be stock intake?
how much did this cost?
Is this just a setup to get me in trouble with my wife......or is this my wife???? Suspect...hahaha
Mine is a lot of in house work, but it's basically the same thing as if you purchased a Stage 5 engine from LC Engineering, I think they are around $9-$10K now.
holy fuck, we are getting a divorce.
freals tho ty for the info and video.
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing
hey nice build! im wondering do you have a lambda sensor in the exhaust? or do you plan on getting one installed? i have a stock 20r paired with msd 6al & weber 40dcoe and im looking for the best options for my exhaust. (daily driver no track time) I was thinking about getting the full exhaust side fabricated because the stock one is pretty rusty. should i use my flowtech header and weld a o2 bung in it or get it fabricated fully through? or is the stock exhaust good enough since I have the stock 20r and save my gauge for the future. (I have the carb airflow meter already)
My exhaust is custom and I have provisions for a lambda sensor, however I run leaded fuel which significantly shortens sensor life. So I do not run the sensor unless tuning. I would recommend upgrading the exhaust no matter what, as the factory 20-30+ year old exhaust is for sure not as good as a budget customer exhaust today.
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing thanks for your insight and information it will help me decide with my set up!
Can you please share the pistons part # and valves
Im building a 73 celica with a 22r also. What wiring harness you using?
I made my harness for scratch. Only original harness is on the cluster, everything else is custom.
A Crank trigger would be cool tho...
How much horsepower does it make
What is the sequence to remove the stud nuts
Badass!! I just built my 20R head with an lce stage 3 cam, bigger valves and slight port work. Paired with a .040 over block with stock (notched) 22R ridged pistons & stock rods with a 38 Webber on the intake. What kind of power do you think I’ll pull out of this? Currently doing break in miles so I can’t romp on it yet but I’ll take it to the dyno soon. I was shooting for 150ish and after seeing this stage 5 at 175hp I’m questioning if I should have gone up a size on the cam lol
It'll feel great! 150ish isn't a bad estimate, but I'd suspect you'll be closer to the 140ish (not that that's a huge difference.
I've got a few things to address on my engine to get some more HP. Found out the valve guides are worn to the point that they definitely affect performance. Going back together later this year and should see some good solid gains, maybe 190ish.
Beautiful work! Lc engineering is expensive but there quality is top notch! Eventually you're gonna have to go efi for reliability power and tuning! Good luck man keep making these videos amazing!
Thank you! I greatly appreciate the positivity!
I have to say these Mikuni's have been completely reliable. Once tuned they do no need re-adjustment ever. In all my 15 years of driving them, I had a float go bad, and an accelerator diaphragm leak. Otherwise they have started and run great every time.
EFI would (in particular spark management) definitely be a big increase of overall power under the curve for sure, but I don't think I'll go that route with this car.
U keep EFI out of this... Carbs never did nothing to you! 😆
It this the Stage 3 head?
@@oldschoolj510 this is a stage 5 head and cam.
What compression ratio are you running? Looks good, sounds good,
The head is milled a good bit so the static compression is about 14.8:1.
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing with that high of compression. Are u still able to run 91? Or just e85/ race gas?
@@dangerousfandango5943 No way to run pump gas. 91 is usually safe on the street up to 10.5:1, 10:1 track. I run 112 leaded.
looks like your piston squish area is just above deck,i stumbled on a 22r block milled .042,my pistons end up .006 above deck,think this will be streetable as far as compression and timing chain tension?stoxk 20r head
@@me9174 Depends on pistons, cam, and how much the head has been milled. Are your pistons flat, dished, or domed, and if domed or dishes do you know the CC's of the dish/dome?
Thinking about doing this conversion using a late 22R block for my 1981 Toyota pickup. Any tips? will race it and try rebuild it myself!!
Well, the 20R head does flow better at higher RPM, just get some nice piston's to go with it for that extra bang. Don't go over 10:1 CR unless you want to run race gas. These hemi chambers are not the best at preventing pre-ignition, so you need a little buffer room. With most engines 10.5:1 is the limit of pump gas (93), but with hemi chambers it's a little less. Other than that, clean the crap out of everything and assembly with great attention to detail! Good luck!
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing I'm not catching the drift on the hemi chambers!.
but thankyou for the advice, I guess most of the parts are going to cost decent cash so will probably do it once I've got everything together and probably finished my sr20VE hybrid.
👍👍👍
Awesome build! I’m newer to the whole scene but quick question. Would an efi build be more stronger after of course a full build. Internals, ported head, upgraded ecu/harness , bigger injectors and set up drive train ect.
EFI would be better overall. Peak power may not be any better, but with a spark table you would likely have a better power curve.
hello good video thank you very much, will you know the difference between flat and convex pistons in 22r engine? I need to know 🙏 my car requires poan pistons and by mistake I bought convex ones 😭
The Dome Pistons the ones with the round bump on the top are for the early model 22r engine the flat top piston style is for the peanut chamber late model Style and that has a shorter deck height the engine block is a lot shorter so domed pistons won't be able to be used in that style of engine block the engine you saw in that video is the early style 22R Toyota engine hope this helps
In the middle of a similar build and found your video because I am having issues with the cam timing on my 20/22R hybrid. Did you use a standard 22 or 20 timing chain?
On our build if we set the timing and turn the engine over the marks are not staying where it should
It is a standard length double row timing chain. You will need an adjustable timing gear to get it dialed in correctly. I have a spare LC Engineering double row adjustable gear if you don't mind buying a used one in good condition.
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing We bought LE timing gear but haven't adjusted it yet. We weren't sure which of the three different timing options was the correct one. (Standard, Race 1, Race 2). Just the fact that turning the engine over a few times by hand and not having the timing marks coming back right was so weird we started looking to make sure we didn't make a mistake somewhere else
@@LoudGuitar14 They are all the same, they are basically just places to save a reference number for specific tracks. So you can quickly determine what you baseline was for that track. Realistically it's redundant as you have actual timing marks.
@@JohnnieLackeyRacing Got ours running now
What oil pan are you running?
I run the mid sump pan.
was this before the dyno runs?
Yes, this is a collection of footage from months ago.
🇵🇷💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽🔥🔥🔥
I wanna do this r