How To Paint A Motorcycle Tank With Spray Paint/Rattle Cans Full Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2022
- Have you been wanting to give your old motorcycle's tank a face lift? Look no further! This is a full tutorial of how to paint a motorcycle tank using spray paint or rattle cans start to finish. I hope this tutorial helps, if you have any questions or comments let me know!
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Awesome job! Love your little helper at the beginning of the video.
Thank you very much!!
Great Job! You gave a very detailed video that was easy to follow. Well done and fantastic result on the RD60.
Leigh Evans
Thank you very much Leigh! Appreciate the comment!
Great job! Thanks for your vídeo!
Thank you very much! Love your 1800 VTX, my first street motorcycle was a red 1300!
Thnks brother! Really!? So I'm working on that VTX, I'll make it black, I sent the parts to paint with professional friend and I'll paint the wheels
@@TheVTXchannel That'll be sweet!
Thank you for sharing! Liked and subscribed!
Thank you very much Vito!!
good job...looks great
Thank you! Cheers!
Good video.
Thank you!!
Going to do same - read that I should clear coat after painting then apply decal and clear coat again!
There are many ways to do it!
I feel like I Just found my long lost Brother from another Mother lol. I am literally in the middle of doing the same exact thing with the same exact paint and the same exact 2k clear coat and black vinyl decals. I used my angle grinder with a circular wire brush attached to it to remove all the original paint and the little wire brushes that attach to the power drill like you used to get in the tighter spaces i couldn't reach with the angle grinder and took everything down to bare metal. I'm also doing a red and black paint job. Now i haven't gotten to laying the decals down yet but i noticed you put your decals directly on the paint ? That's what i wanted to do too but other people have advised me to put a layer of clear coat on first and then the decals go over that first layer of clear coat and then the second coat of clear coat go over the decals because the vinyl decals will not adhere to bare paint very good. I mean that's just what i heard but the problem i have with doing that is like you mentioned once you pop open that can of 2k clear coat it's only good for 2 hours. If i open the can of clear coat just to spray 1 layer of it i can't use the rest of the clear coat until the decals have been put down which means the rest of the can will go to waste cause i can't get the decals on that fast after putting the 1st layer of clear coat on and i'll have to buy another can. But it looks like laying the decals directly on the paint worked out well for you so I'm thinking i might do it the same way. Did the decals give you any issues with adhereing to the paint off camera ? Your paint job with decals came out looking sick ! I Love the red and black glossy look. Exactly what i'm aiming for.
Hey long lost brother! lol. I did not have any issues at all with the decals adhering to the paint, I did let the paint completely cure over 2 weeks prior. It was hard enough that i trusted putting the decals on it! This was two years ago, and i have not had any issues yet with bubbling. Yeah the 2k clear coat is expensive :/. I did use some soapy water to get the decal on, but once squeegeed out the decals were stuck on very well. After applying the decals (i did this in the winter, waited the paint to cure, applied decals, then waiting another two weeks to ensure proper adhesion) i did give it a few weeks to make sure it adhered well. The red rustoleum paint held well to the primer. I think the decal stuck well enough that it would pull the paint off if i tried to pull of the sticker haha. The red paint is a "softer" paint due to not having a catalyst. I haven't ever put decals over clear coat, i figure it would work fine but again it would be more expensive because you would have to use another can of 2k clear coat. Again I did not have any issues at all doing this method! Just adequate soapy water. These decals were also very sticky, so I did not have any issues with them peeling once adhered. I feel as long as you have a high quality decal it will properly adhere. Off camera I did try to use some of the 2k clearcoat approximately 48 hours after mixing it, and it was a huge mistake. It bubbled up bad, ran terrible, luckily i was able to use acetone to get it off before it hardened. I thought I ruined the tank, but was able to act quickly. It literally made the tank look like small soap bubbles everywhere, so i would not try to push it past the 2-4 hours. Thank you for watching man! Best of luck. Any other questions just let me know!
@@octanerestorations Just so i don't waste the can of 2k clear coat i'm thinking of doing the entire bike frame as well as the tank and fenders. All metal parts anyway. But here is another question for ya if you happen to know the answer. If not i'd like your opinion anyway. So As of right now I have the red gloss rustoleum spray paint on both the fenders and some of the Rustoleum black gloss paint on the bottom half of the gas tank. But i was browsing Ebay for quality spray paints in a Honda Red and i found Honda Fighting Red Spray Paint that looked really good on my monitor so i went ahead and ordered a can of it. It's just a Base Coat though. So i guess my question is is it safe to spray a Base Coat Paint over the glossy rustoleum spray paint or will it have a bad reaction on the rustoleum paint and come out terrible ? Or should i just give the parts with the rustoleum paint on them a light sanding to scuff them up enough for the base coat to stick to them ? I'm not 100% sure i will need to spray over the rustoleum just yet it depends on just how close the Honda Fighting Red looks compared to the Rustoleum Red. If I can't even tell them apart I'd probably just leave the Rustoleum Fenders alone and do the rest of the bike in the Fighting Red. But if the Fighting Red looks a lot better than the Rustoleum than I'd probably just do the whole entire bike in the fight red. So when the fighting red arrives i will just test spray some on the gas tank where it's still bare metal to see how it looks and then take it from there. Also I never understood how the soapy water thing worked with the decals cause i would have thought the soap water would remove the sticky adhesive from the decal so it doesn't stick as well but apparently not since a lot of people use that method. I Just hope the flame decals i got are actually good quality and don't start curling or shrinking once the 2k clear coat hits them. Guess i'll find out. I only paid like $13 bucks for a 6 pack of flame decals from Ebay so they weren't exactly expensive lol. Now I'm wondering if i should just order more expensive decals but the ones i have are the perfect sizes for my application. Here's a link to the Fighting red I got. --> www.google.com/shopping/product/1?q=Honda+Motorcycle+Fighting+Red+R-134+R134+base+coat&prds=epd:13384492676239023375,eto:13384492676239023375_0,pid:13384492676239023375&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwja8pTo6pD6AhWvKFkFHRzEB6IQ9pwGCAU
@@JNC1973 i definitely wouldn't just spray the honda red on the glossy red paint, I would either scuff it up like the primer and lay the honda fighting red on it, or scuff it up, put primer down, then lay the honda fighting red. Will be an extra step, but in my opinion paint just lays better on a primed surface, and that is what primer is meant for. I don't think it would look bad, but I would be concerned about the long term adhesion to the rustoleum paint. If i were in your shoes i would scuff it, then lay the primer, then sand the primer, then lay the honda red! That is a pretty red!
Soapy water (I used a 95% water to 5% soap) provides a small amount of lubrication, but when it dries thats where the adhesive sticks on. As long as your decals are vinyl and not paper based (Paper based will fall apart with water) i believe you should be fine. You could always try them out on something with soapy water to ensure it does not mess with the adhesion. If you ordered automotive decals then they are most likely vinyl, which should not warp or shrink when clear coat or soapy water is applied. If they are paper based, then they will absorb water or clear coat and be ruined, and potentially ruin your paint job! Most adhesives on vinyl are solvent based, so soapy water does not affect them to any noticeable degree, once the soapy water is dried. Just ensure the surface you are applying the decals on is free of any oil or contaminates!
@@octanerestorations Hey i had to scroll through a ton of you tube notifications just to find our conversation here to re - read what you said in the first comment. I just got my can of Honda Fighting Red Base Coat Paint in the mail finally and after putting the Red Rustoleum Automotive Primer on the tank and letting it dry I applied 2 layers of the Red Base Coat. It seems to have dried pretty fast. A lot faster than I thought it would take. So I was sitting here debating how long i should wait to start applying the vinyl decals and was gonna do it some time soon but then I came on to here to see how long you said you waited and when I saw you said you waited 2 full weeks before adding the decals I was like DAMN !!! I'm so impatient and just wanna get this project done already lol. And as if this 2 week wait isn't gonna be hard enough then you said after you put the decals on you then waited another 3 weeks to do the Clear Coat ? This is gonna take foreverrrrrrrr........ But i guess i will have to force myself to wait it out in hopes that the end result will be well worth the wait. Even though the base coat feels dry to the touch the same day i applied it that doesn't mean it's fully dry and cured underneath and could cause bubbling under the decals if i put them on now. But i wonder if i put the painted tank in front of a fan 24/7 if that will speed up the wait time for me to do the decals ? You think ? Maybe if it's in front of a fan 24/7 i can wait 1 week instead of 2 weeks ? Also it's in an air conditioned room. 🤔🛵
@@JNC1973 whats the humidity like where you live? I feel that! I think the quickest you could do is apply the decal 48 hours after the last coat of red paint, and then clear coat 24 hours after that! I had extra time painting so I did not mind waiting! But I think you should be fine looking at the manufactures recommendations!
Great video. Did the clear coat epoxy spray do well at keeping your decals nice and wear-proof/weather proof?
It does! since it is clear coated with the 2k clearcoat which has a catalyst, it keeps them protected!
Very impressed with the work on your tank. I’m hoping you can help me as I am going to be painting an entire full fairing sport bike. I’ll be using rust oleum gloss spray paint, applying decals once paint cures as you did. My question is in relation to applying 2k clear. Like you, I want to wait a while to ensure base coat cures before applying 2k clear (avoid wrinkles/reaction). I noticed you did not wet sand before adding your clear coat several weeks after curing. How did you know you would get got adhesion? Without sanding after waiting so long? Have you had any clear coat issues with flaking or peeling? Appreciate any insight as I am afraid of not getting good adhesion if I don’t wet sand, but like the idea of not doing that step if not needed to avoid ruining base coat. Thanks in advance. Great video.
Hey Cory, thanks for the comment! I did not have any issues doing it this way so far, and I sprayed it 3 years ago, but my motorcycle is garage kept and ceramic coated. This is from rustoluem's website
Based on 70°F (21°C) 50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. Dries tack free in 2-4 hours, handle in 5-9 hours and fully dry in 24 hours. Primers may be top coated immediately. Apply a second coat or clear coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours.
This is one of the reviews of the 2k clearcoat I used :
It's a 2k urethane clearcoat. It is compatible with enamels so long you apply it within 1 hour of the enamel top coat or after it has completely cured which can take weeks/months. If you clear coat on top of enamel that hasn't fully cured, it will wrinkle. I've always sprayed 2k urethane clear coat within 30-40 minutes after applying the last top coat. Never had an issue with wrinkling.
I personally was scared that if I scuffed up the paint then applied the clearcoat that it would wrinkle (by scuffing it up in my mind i exposed less cured paint), and I did not want to scuff my expensive decals. If you have the time I do think wet sanding could help promote adhesion!
Excellent info./feedback. Thanks so much for these details. My bike was also be garage kept. Again, very impressed with your work, I’ll keep tuning in to learn from your projects. All the best in the new year!
@@coryvader2133 Anytime, thank you for the support, best of luck!
What is the gas sealer to paint compound you use??
Are you talking about inside the tank?
Just wondering why you didn't mask up the fill hole.
You can! I just cleaned up around it after
👍♥️♥️♥️♥️
Thank You!!!
I’m gonna use your channels name for my business name, hope you don’t mind
I can't stop you if you aren't in texas haha, as long as it isnt my logo and stuff!
wow- i did cheepest and 3 days was going work and refill gas = paint ran :>( ugh
I did the exact same thing! The other clear coats are not resistant to chemicals like gas, they are one part. The clear coat I used here is gasoline resistant! You can pour gasoline on it and nothing happens, thats why I use this one! It is 2 parts like epoxy
usiing a paper mask while painting 2k paint products is a very bad idea. Highly toxic isocyanates in the paint require at least an activated carbon respirator or preferably a fresh air pressurized face mask system.
I now know that! I should've had a more adequate respiratory protection system, you are correct!