Thanks again, Cal. I bought, sold, and restored jukeboxes full-time for about 15 years during the heyday of the Nostalgia craze (the 80's and early 90's). It's good to know that there are folks out there, like you, who still love these wonderful old machines. Music is a very emotional medium, and listening to an old jukebox play songs from our carefree youth can really be a very moving experience. Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.
Awesome! My 88 year old neighbor has a 78 model."Lights but no sound" , he said He asked me to look at it. Since retirement, I got rid of all my test equipment. I tossed a current limiter together and plugged it in. First visual noticed one tube not glowing. I really didn't look long enough to notice a tube chart. Due to the size, it's not cost effective to ship off. Thanks to this video, it gives me enough information to make a guess that a tube failed. I'll have to use a multimeter to try and determine why it failed. These old caps are always to be questioned. Such a work of art, should be repaired. The big strike, is it being a 78.
Your 1015 is a dream! The info about the bubbler lights is fascinating. I love the lollipop tone arm! While my repro 1015 is "all plastic," I love the atmosphere of the lighting, bubbling lights, reject mechanism. Amazing! Thanks again for your extremely informative videos, UNCLE DOUG! What a magical time it was...in the heyday of the mighty jukeboxes!
Really brings back memories. My Dad and Mom owned a "drug store" in the mid '40s in Oklahoma. One of these sat in the back. The kids would play it and dance. We would put finger nail polish on the coins to identify our start-up money to get the joint rockin'. Love this tour of this classic! Thanks very much.
Thank you very much for a highly commendable effort. I subscribed a week ago after following your videos for sometime! Fortunately, found them all very refreshing & informative. I am well into my seventies now, but when in my early twenties, studied at Cal Poly. I have been making transistor amplifiers along with active & passive speaker systems for a long time now! My family lives in the US, but I have a workshop near Tehran the capital of Iran. I travel to the States to visit them and they travel to this country to see me! Hoping you have not abandoned me already, I decided to continue my work here in Iran because there are a good number of audio enthusiasts who are disappointed in the imported big brands selling at exorbitant sums. They prefer the sound of my amp particularly since I substituted the transistor pre amp with a vacuum tube one using a single 6922 or E 88CC! Frankly, this was my first encounter with working with vacuum tubes! My dear Uncle Doug, if you are not sick and tired already, please be kind enough to allow me to finish in the next installment!! Thank you so much for your time and patience. Yours sincerely Amir Souti
Who does the repair on the seeburg black and gray boxes , didital decoder boxes ? ,also a good connection for amp rebuild kits ? ,I've used victory glass for years ,know these guys from Chicago land jukebox shows ,but would like to find other sources for parts,?
I have no idea about digital devices, Mark. I only worked on jukeboxes from the 30's up to the mid-50's. I have always relied upon Victory Glass for my parts, and Ebay if VGC doesn't have what I need. A fellow named Bill Butterfield at Musical Fun for Everyone has a large selection of vintage parts.
Uncle Doug thank you for the info , I've talked with him at the Chicago shows , I've got their number somewhere , I still operate some jukes and its always good to know where the parts are . You can still find old machines around this area . I've collected a few ,222 seeburg ss160 seeburg a few Wurlitzer's I haven't looked at yet ,and some early 60s a m I Rowe's .
The early jukeboxes have disappeared around this area, Mark. The only time they come to light is when some old collector croaks or gets in financial trouble.
I learned 'vacuum tube' theory on a 3 stage amplifier that I designed, built and tested myself at a school not too far from the Wurlitzer plant. Your video was excellent and really brought back a lot of memories. I haven't seen vacuum tubes glow in 45 years. mu = Rp *gm remember?
It sounds like you learned it the right way, bB. Personal experimentation is, by far, the most effective way to learn any craft. I'm glad the video was helpful and brought back some good memories.....and formulas :)
Thanks so much, Tony. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I've posted several other jukebox videos which may be of interest. Please check them out when you get a chance :)
There is a pre-war Wurlitzer at my old Church in the chapel. The inside is pretty much identical to this but it's in just a plain wooden box with a fancy speaker box and remote selector mounted to one end of a pew...It's loaded up with a selection of hymns and the Mendelssohn wedding march... That heater relay really spooked me when I first got it going and saw those tubes glowing so bright for the first few seconds, at some point someone had replaced the speaker with a permanent magnet one and took out the big coil from the old speaker and kept it wired into the amp... Last time I visited my old church it was still there but unplugged and idle. : (
+Tony Miller It sounds like a Wurlitzer Model 1017, Tony, which is a plain wooden box with a complete jukebox mechanism within. They were made for use in locations where bright appearance was not desirable......just selective music, i.e. a church, some restaurants, etc. If the church isn't using it and needs money, they should offer it for sale. The mechanical parts are rather valuable.
Just the coolest. Takes me back to another time. You’re the best, Uncle. Good vibrations to you, friend 🤙📱⚗️oh, and please give that sweet cat Mitsy a little pat for me 🐈 ❤
Howdy, I have a 25 cycle version - the 504. It is darn heavy - but it worked with 60 cycle (not the other way around). Bought it about 1963 and used it as my first Guitar amp with some FC speakers. Seeing your post I might just revive it! Cheers Paul W
Nothing like it. Gorgeous. Once that song started playing a ridiculous grin spread across my face. Still stuck there. Thanks, fellow Doug, for the great videos. I gotta wonder how many people restoring these would have altered the turntable (or tried to) in order to minimize record wear..
Very informative! BTW, regarding the fast-warmup circuit, RockOla did the same thing. Seeburg kept the heaters on all the time because their new Select-O-matic mechanism could possibly play the first record immediately, depending on how far the mechanism had to scan, while Wurlitzer's changer took the exact same time no matter what record it played. The later model Wurlitzers of the early fifties did away with the fast-start relay and kept the heaters at 5 volts all the time. Since nearly all tube failures occur at startup, this extended their life. Yes you are correct that tubes were much cheaper then (!) but a non-working jukebox with a burned out tube made no money.
I'm pretty new to TH-cam and channels like yours are just blowing me away. That juke box is beautiful! You've been doing this for years. Yes, mice are a problem! They recently attacked my 1968 C20. I can't purchase enough poison to put a dent in them. I even seen a northern jumping wood mouse while mowing, that's not even supposed to be in this area. I was gaining on him with the rider mower until he started hopping and I noticed the long hind legs and long curly tail. He lost me fast.
It would probably be a monster, especially with the 15" electrodynamic speaker. I am thinking about making a conversion plug that allows me to plug a guitar into the volume control box (instead of the cartridge input) and use the jukebox as a big, lit-up guitar amp. If it happens, I'll post it on TH-cam.
Thanks for sharing this. Working one one of these amps, trying to find how others have dealt with not having the original field coil speaker.. If I understand correctly, the field coil does not serve as a typical power supply choke; it taps off the B+ psu at the first filter cap to ground. With the amp I'm repairing, the previous tech didn't mod the PSU. As a result, the B+ was waaay too high- 450+ volts. I'm adding 50W power resistors- a 10K where the choke was and 100 ohms from the rectifier filament to the 1st filter cap. Also, I'm using a 5R4 rectifier as it has more voltage drop than a 5U4. All this dropped the B+ down to ~325 vdc; close enough to the designed 315vdc.
You're welcome, Kent. It is an unusual circuit, that necessitates provision of high-wattage resistance (50W+) in place of a missing 5.2K Ohm field coil. Without this "bleeder" to ground, the B+ would definitely exceed the max PV, especially for 6L6 metal) and 6L6G and GB output tubes.
Hi Doug. I did extensive research some years ago re the W1015 and found the following data for manufacturing. There were 56,246 of them shipped, but the actual production/manufacturing number was 60,400. Also, the serial plate on the back of both the '46 and '47 models corresponded to the year built and the day of the year manufactured. For example, If the serial number started with 1 it was a 1946; a 2 indicated a '47. However, the number series also included the day of the 365 day year that it was physically made. As an example, if the jukebox was made on Jan 10, 1947, the numbers would read 2010... if you look at a 1947 calendar, it would indicate the precise day of the week it was made. Very cool.
Dang it UD, if I would have watched this last week I might have had a sliver of a chance at guessing the type of bad ass lighting you might use in the Steam Punk amp... I'm catching all your videos. I REALLY appreciate you making them!
@@UncleDoug off the top of your head, have you ever ran across any Amp that had one 12AX7, and one 6AQ5? (and of course a rectifier tube) '45ish... Trying to find similar schematics that are not signal tracers. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
@@UncleDoug that's OK. It's probably a guitar Amp for hobbits. I found it hiding inside my signal tracer. So far I've gleaned that it is a beam power tube mfd in the mid forties. On the schematic it's closest to the OT. I'm wondering if I can change it to a similar newer tube. Maybe give me a few more watts to the speaker. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!
Well done! I wish I would have found this 6 months ago when I was struggling with a 1937 616. I had to replace the fiber gear among other issues like frozen cam rollers, gummed up shaft bearings, etc. I would like to see a step by step video of how you replace those gears. There's many ways to skin a cat as they say, but watching someone with more experience can teach you shortcuts that will save time and aggravation in the future. I think more detail about the reject part of the mechanism would have been interesting but you would have had to have the mechanism out to get a camera in there to see it work. Even though I understood most of what you were explaining you still cleared up a few things that I didn't quite understand how they worked. The service manuals aren't all that great Thanks for your effort and time!
Thanks, Cliff. I'm glad the videos have been helpful. You're right about the inability to properly show the reject parts deep within the mechanism. I just couldn't bring myself to disassemble a nicely-operating mechanism to gain access to them. You're also right about replacing the fiber drive gear.....it's no fun at all. I got a great deal on a nice Wurlitzer 750 many years ago because it had a stripped fiber gear. The owner had tried to replace it, and after several days of escalating frustration and misery, he finally became so disgusted that he sold the jukebox as-is just to be rid of the problem. About the only way I can see making a fiber gear replacement video would be if one of my jukeboxes required the repair, and I could document the procedure. Quite frankly, I hope this never happens :)))
Hey UD, I'm on the hunt. Apparently the venerable Fender 5F1 Champ has a very "similar" tube comliment as the Eico 147A Signal tracer. 5F1- 1 of each 12AX7, 6V6, 5Y3. 147A- 1 of each 12AX7, 6AQ5, 6X4. The 5F1 produces 5 massive watts. To achieve the desired result, I'll have to squeeze 2 or 3 more watts out of the Eico. Hopefully the 3 transformers (PT, OT, & Current Transformer no idea) will cooperate. If successful I'll call it the Eico Chimp. If not, I'll christen it The Chump. The important point is to learn. Thank you for the inspiration, the education, and the laughs! Keep you posted... :)
I hope the transformers and rectifier tube are up to the challenge, FWR. If not, I hope your fire insurance is up to date:) Good luck with your project.
@@UncleDoug That is my concern as well. And as most house fires are non habit forming, I have much more to study. And the more you study the luckier you get? I give you my word as a fellow mad scientist that I will perform due diligence before applying da juice. When it's finished I'll have a healthy tracer/guitar tester, so nothing too crazy. ;) But the knowledge & the fun... priceless. Looking forward to your next awesome video!
I'm working on a couple early McIntosh 50w-2 Monoblock amps. They have two 6J5 tubes driving 6L6s through a transformer phase inverter. These bad boys must weigh 100 lbs a piece. They would make a great guitar amp.
For a time we lived upstairs over the tavern and while we could not hear the mid-range up there, the bass boom was always there. Could be why later I became an audiophile and electrical engineer.
Ken Bird This reminds me of one of my "pet peeves": cars that pull up next to me at stop lights, with their 1KW stereo systems and six 15" bass speakers, blasting the occupants with a 150dB cacophony of unintelligible thumps and booms, turning whats left of their feeble brains into jelly........I guess I'm just getting old :)
+Uncle Doug Not old just sensible , I remember investing a lot of money in the late 70's early 80's ,striving to get that live band sound in my cars and vans .I wonder what i would have done given the choices today Even if I could have that power and sound that is available today I could never EQ or X-over my rig to sound like that . To me there 's no relation to even the best of bands or recordings . Hey so we're both old . .I used to have inconsiderate neighbors with teenagers and their friends would park in the street with that bone rattling thump, Id go and get me big sledge(sludge) hammer and start slamming my truck bumper tow hitch on every down beat ,they turned it down and drove away . Another fix but for truckers only , When I was truckin and one of those trunk rattling monsters pulled up beside me at a stop light ,Id flip on my engine fan switch then hold the revs high that big fan and Cat motor with straights will drown out most anything short of a jet on take off .Ok so I was temporarily part of the problem but they turned it down or drove away from me quick .Most cities have an ordnance regarding that type of thing but Ive never seen it enforced . project idea for you D,with your wealth of knowledge ,maybe you could come up with an EMP device in a taser type gun that will shoot a tiny wire and instead of a barbed needle on the end ,a tiny magnetic contact then zap the car's body shooting a ka -zillion volts thru the ground ............well you get the picture
on some jukeboxes the relay coil was wired as the 6L6's cathode bias res. when the tubes conducted the relay closed allowing power to the turntable motor
Mr71chevyvan In the 1015 amp, the relay coil is the cathode bias resistor for the 6L6's; however, the opening and closing of the relay contacts simply changes the filament voltage from 9V for rapid warm up down to 6V for record playing purposes. Thanks for your input.
That was a great upload thanks! What a brilliant way of getting a fast start up for a valve amplifier. The later jukes simply left the heaters ( filiaments ) lit and took off the ht rail but this is much much cleverer! Thanks for the post. Great Doo wop too!
DAVESOUNDSMATAMP ...Jeese 9.6v on a standard 6.3v valve...I would imagine it would wear them out very quickly indeed...but its a handy little trick though...!!!.
I understand why it appears that this would be hard on tubes, but most jukebox amp 6L6's lasted for many years. I guess the filaments are pretty tough :)
Hi there Uncle Doug, Yeh, its a bit of a round about way actually...I would have thought like matey said here...that it would have been a better way to leave the amp on all the time...but Cut the B+ HT line from the Rec' ( 5U4G ) between plays....where the dropping coin could flick a little switch or relay type thing..to turn on the HT...or even something on the record player mech itself, could do this..?? :)
Hi there Uncle Doug, Yeh, its a bit of a round about way actually...I would have thought like matey said here...that it would have been a better way to leave the amp on all the time...but Cut the B+ HT line from the Rec' ( 5U4G ) between plays....where the dropping coin could flick a little switch or relay type thing..to turn on the HT...or even something on the record player mech itself, could do this..even maybe a little relay that the ARM could sit on ( next to its rest )..therefore when the arm lifts off to play a record..it could activate the relay to switch it on...then when it returns to its rest..it could then switch it off again...this way it would not over wear the valves. !!! :)Uncle Doug
Raf, it would take many paragraphs to fully satisfy your request, and a verbal explanation might be confusing. If there is interest in these topics, I may produce a video to demonstrate these adjustments. Meanwhile, the Wurlitzer 1015 manual (probably posted somewhere on the Internet) offers a step-by-step procedure for these adjustments. Good luck !!!
50 cycles was also used in America, hence the range of operation. Back until the mid-1950s, half of Los Angeles was 50 cycles (West) and 60 cycles (East and downtown). So Hammond organs had to have special motors depending on which side of town they were being used, otherwise the pitch would be off...
Ia it possible to gut the filter capacitors and place a modern one inside the can and thus keep the outer and inner look? Sorry if this is an ignorant question or maybe someone had already asked....
Earth Angel.....I keep hearing that song over and over... maybe you played a few intro chords from that song in one' of your other videos testing a guitar amp? Good explanation referring to the schematic. What kind of max wattage would the two 6L6 generate to drive that 15 inch speaker?
Hello Uncle Doug, i'm working on a seeburg jukebox right now, and on the shematic there is a double pontentiometer with the marks R and F. i don't know what this means, but could it be rear and front? Thanks Ben
I recall repairing a few of these back on the 80’s and early 90’s for a guy who bought old jukeboxes and brought them back to looking beautiful again. My background is in electronics and these amps were just great. Usually just new capacitors was all that was required to fix them. I have a question (now that I finally own one of these great jukeboxes) - is there a kit available that converts the pick up to a more modern and lighter tracking version that won’t wear records out so quickly? Thanks for another informative and interesting video!
In the old days, you could buy Astatic 51-2 cartridges at reasonable prices and then make the light-tracking conversion to both the tone arm, shut off mechanism, and amplifier (impedance modification)......but I understand that now, these cartridges are generally not available. You'll have to hunt one down on the Internet. Good luck.
@@UncleDoug I have an extra Astatic cartridge that came out of my AMI C jukebox. Since the AMI was modified for 45 rpm the needle may be the wrong one. I’ll take a look but I suspect 78 rpm 2 mil needles can still be found for that cartridge.
My first response is: What the hell is Goodwill doing charging $150 for an incomplete, non-working jukebox amp that was donated to them by someone who thought it was a charity, when it isn't......it is a strictly for-profit business......which is why they are trying to price gouge you. I would offer them $50 for it and maybe go up a little, but their asking price is high, in my book. They are great amps but require an electrodynamic speaker with a 5200 Ohm field coil.
Hi Doug do you know much about the amplifier for a rockola princess deluxe, I'm not sure if it's valve or solid state I've got the jukebox but it's missing the amplifier I need to get hold or make one! any help on this. Thanks! From your dragon fly across the pond!!!! I've got some Fender speakers 12 inch drivers somebody told me they worth money do you know if there? I've always thought about putting a Bluetooth adaptor inside a jukebox so you can connect your phone and use it as a bluetooth speaker not really seen anybody do this what do you think you give it a go! I think if you connect the Bluetooth on the first valves where the cartridge would go the other side of this? or on a solid state the op amp, put a separate transformer and some filtering.
I have seen Rockola Princesses, John, and believe they had tube amps. You would have to do Internet searches and watch Ebay for a replacement. I have no jukebox parts. Fender speakers, in good shape, are always desirable. You could list them on Ebay. The Bluetooth adapter sounds interesting. I tend to keep my jukeboxes completely original, but others may enjoy making this modification. Thanks !!!
Uncle Doug where can I get a schematic for a rockola jukebox got a website. I don't use eBay, I'm just thinking of the Bluetooth idea because jukeboxes have lost their value in previous years, and something like this will increase its value back again. I don't think it's going to affect it's originality! But add value back to the jukebox? Its something that can be taken out and not affect it's originality. I just thought you might have been the person maybe who could do a segment on this for people who are restoring their own jukeboxes to give them an extra purpose.
Tone control question I have a 503 amp and I thought i replaced every thing needed to make it work correctly including all caps and carbon composite resisters except for the old school strange looking resisters and the pots.( My problem is no response from the bass control ) the only thing i know to be out of spec is the 2400 ohm field coil which i have not fixed yet. Any ideas on that bass control ?
it still has the original magnetic grind needle which does not have much output. I have been testing with an mp3 player connected threw the volume box.
I have no idea what the output characteristics are for your mp3 player. If there is an impedance mismatch, bass frequencies are usually the first to go. I have converted all my jukeboxes to modern diamond stylus crystal cartridges, like the Astatic 51-2.....the old magnetic cartridges were unreliable and destroyed records because they track at 3.5 ounces....not grams. The volume control box has all sorts of resistors and capacitors to ground that will lose signal. Bypass the volume control and input the mp3 signal right into the amp input, using the mp3 player's volume control. Start off with it at 0 volume and increase very slowly.
With the needle it is week , shrill like a transistor radio. With the mp3 in the amp direct it is stronger cleaner but leans toward the bass and no bass control . When i convert to astatic 51-2 is there any changes to the volume box or amp to accommodate the new cartridge ?
Yes, you remove all electronics from the volume control box and install a 1Meg potentiometer to serve as the new volume control. The 51-2 does not work well with the old circuitry.
Thanks for the 1015 videos. Can you recommend anyone in the Los Angeles area who does service calls for an old 1015 78 rpm machine? It has not been used in 10+ years and needs contact cleaning and fine tune adjustments. Tom
You're welcome, Tom. I haven't worked on jukeboxes in about 20 years and have lost contact with techs who may still work on them. Look up Amusement Machines in the Yellow Pages.
I had good success using LPS1 Greaseless Lubricant. I poured LPS1 into in a small squeeze bottle that had a long dispensing tube and was able to apply it where needed. After turning the motor over by hand (forward and backward) the mechanisms freed up.
+Sam McFarlane I believe it would make an excellent guitar amp, Sam, and you can use an 8 ohm permanent magnet speaker simply by substituting a 5.2K ohm 25W resistor or a filter choke for the field coil in the ED speaker. If you do this, please let us know how it turns out.
Another great video featuring my favourite technology! I understand valves much more than those transistor things. We saw the amp and the volume control box. But there was another box on the opposite side with things plugged into it. What is that? Do the other tubes get a higher voltage to the heaters as well, or just the 6L6Gs? If not, are they running continuously?
The other box is a junction box, to which all electrical devices are plugged.....amp, motor, lights, etc. I believe all the tubes get a 9V jolt to wake them up from their slumber. They are not on until a record is played.
@@UncleDoug Thank you for the explanation. I may be wrong, but I heard that some jukeboxes in the UK work the other way round, the valve heaters are kept on a low heat, and then fed with their full voltage when a record is selected.
Hey Uncle Doug, this is yet another phase inverter type I really haven't had any knowledge or experience. I viewed interstage phase inverting transformers as primary and secondary. Could you, or did you, post any information about this type of phase inverter? I did watch the phase inverter video featuring tubes, that I'm familiar with, but this one is new to me.
Several of my videos have discussed the use of a transformer for phase inversion, CnS, but I can't recall the exact titles. You can also find explanations on the internet. Good luck.
@@UncleDoug Yeah, I was thinking about looking them up, somehow, but like I said, I'm familiar with the "typical" interstage coupling transformer having a separate primary and a center tapped secondary. Am I to assume that this are calle interstage audio coupling transformers or do they have another specific name? Thanks.
It seems like stressing the heater filaments like that would create some of the same problems they were trying to alleviate (assuming it was all done for tube life). I wonder if they could have just brought the filament voltage down between songs and just kept the tubes in an almost ready mode.
The quick-start relay is not to preserve tube life, it is to ensure that a selected record is fully audible from its starting groove. This process will shorten tube filament life, but will maintain customer satisfaction.....which mattered more than tubes back in the 40's :)
@@UncleDoug Well, I'm confused. If it's not there to extend tube life, then why not leave the amp powered as long as the jukebox is on. What's the reason for turning the amp off between selections?
Uncle Doug, great video, very informitive. I have a Wurlitzer 1015 that has suddenly stopped playing sound. The mechanism functions perfectly so I believe the problem is in the amp. None of the tubes glow or get warm when on. Do you have any ideas on how I could trouble shoot it and get it working again? Thanks so much!
+Joseph Bloomingdale Plug the amp into an extension cord and see if it works. If not, then check the amp fuse. If it's blown, and if new fuses continue to blow, then the amp circuit is drawing too much current and should be looked at by a qualified technician.
+Uncle Doug it worked by plugging the amp into an extension cord! Is it safe to leave like this a play it like that for a while? So there is a problem with the box the amp plugs into then?
Playing with an extension cord should be no problem. Somewhere in the credit circuit, between the coin grinder, junction box, and the amp, there is a contact (that should turn on the amp) that is not being closed. It could be as simple as a bad or loose amp socket on the junction box. You will have to trace through this circuit to find the open spot.
I need your help! I have this exact same jukebox as you and I recently moved into a new home. I went to turn in on today for the first time since the move and noticed it wasn’t playing sound. The speaker still seamed to be working but not playing music. After a few minutes of the jukebox being on, the amplifier started smoking so I unplugged it immediately. Do you have any suggestions on how I should start troubleshooting this problem??
To be honest, LP, if you have to ask where to start, you probably shouldn't be working on the amp. With 500VDC on hand to cause bodily injury, you'd best seek some qualified assistance.
Hi, liked the video, how much neg feedback is set? i have a massive Wurlitzer power amp with twin 6L6 tubes & vibrato section, it take 10 tubes in total - 5U4 - 12AX7 (4) - 12FQ8 (3) its marked as an organ amplifier Number 501846-01 The plan is to get it ready as a guitar amp for next year, i've not powered up as yet! would you have a schematic by any chance or any general info would be helpful. Thanks
The Model 503 amp for the Wurlitzer 1015 has no negative feedback loop. I have modified Baldwin and Hammond organ amps for guitar use, but have never worked on a Wurlitzer organ amp. As a result, I have no Wurlitzer organ schematics, so you'll have to do a schematic search on the Internet. The number you quoted sounds more like a serial number than a model number to me, so it might not work in your search. I have never heard of 12FQ8 tubes, so you might include this tube number in your search, since it should really narrow down the possibilities. Good luck !!
Sorry to contradict you, Ed, but the speaker code on the majority of W-1015 speakers that I have encountered is 232, which is Magnavox. The speaker in the 1015 in the video is No. 232639: a Magnavox speaker made in the 39th week of 1946.
Uncle Doug Well, I guess you would know that for sure so I'll defer to your expertise on this. I am working now on a 1937 Rock-ola Rhythm King, a 12-selection 78rpm unit. The cabinet is made from solid walnut veneers and the frame uses lots of inlays. Beautiful construction. And yes, Wurlitzer jukes were over-engineered compared to RO. I restored a W1500A a few years ago that took 4 long years to restore. We had to re-engineer some of the mech parts as there were many flaws built into this model. A nightmare to be sure. The worst was having 2 trays coming out from either stacker and jamming as the turntable rose -- crunch! The manual is really not great so troubleshooting this model is difficult. After a long time watching this mechanism cycle we noticed that the cam follower was loose. After tightening and adjusting it that problem never came back. Love your videos. Very informative. TX.
You're welcome, Ed. Thanks for all the great info and input. The 1500 and 1550 were, to me, the most complex and frustrating of all the Wurlitzer models. Plus, they weighed a ton. I too restored and owned one for several years, but always expected (and dreaded) a malfunction. You must admit, however, their ability to play both sides of 45's and 78's (intermixed) was interesting.....and responsible for their absurd complexity.
Sim, entendo que este é o transformador que aciona o tanque de reverberação, não tenho idéia das voltagens para dentro ou para fora, Jorge. Esta não é uma medida que eu já tomei ou lembrei de ver.
Hi uncle Doug, How difficult would it be to convert a Seeburg MA1-L6 jukebox master amplifier into a guitar amp? Is it doable? I haven't done a lot of amp work but am pretty good with a soldering iron. Thanks.
I have never tried converting a Seeburg amp for guitar use, Dave, but I would think it would be fairly straightforward.....add an input jack, it already has volume and tone controls, provide some means for it to communicate with speaker(s) of appropriate impedance. Let us know if you do it :)
Are there any sonic advantages to the electrodynamic speaker system? Have you 'splained all this in one of your video's already? I may have to go Back to the Future to find it^8-)
There are definitely practical advantages, since the field coil never loses its magnetism and also serves as a great filter choke......but as far as sound, I have never been overwhelmed by any audible differences.
Hi Doug, I have a Wurlitzer 1100 that I really have enjoyed for the last 12 years. I must admit that I am not an electronics genius, but I can at least read voltages with my meter. I want to thank you so much for describing how the amp works, as I am now getting some understanding at how my amp works on my 1100. For some unknown reason, the relay will not stay energized without some coaxing with the help of my finger. With that said, I wanted to ask you how to troubleshoot problems with my quick start relay. If I force activation with my finger, I can get the 1100 to play wonderful music. And I can see that the relay can then hold its own and the relay electromagnet will do a great job continuing to activate. But wait 10 mins. and the same thing happens. I looked at the schematic, and I see that the 1100 also has two 6L6G's. I want to do some troubleshooting. Am I right that pins 3 on both 6l6G's connects to the power transformer with 9.6 volts? If so, between what two points would I check for the 9.6 volts? Since the quick start relay seems to have more than ample oomph to activate (I have to REALLY pull forcefully to pull the relay plate away with my finger). You also said that when activated, the relay switches to the 6.3 volt winding of the transformer. If that is the case, could the culprit be that the 6L6G's are going bad and may not be pulling the correct amount of current to activate the quick start relay? Any ideas that you have to check the voltages on the 6L6G's (voltages at the specific pin locations to check voltages) and, if necessary, how to verify proper activation of the quick start relay (including how to check voltages) would be very much appreciated. Thanks again, Glenn
Glenn1100 Glenn, pin 3 of the 6L6's goes to the output transformer primary winding and carries the 400+ volts to the tube plates. Be very careful with this high voltage. The current that activates the quick-start relay comes from pin 8 (the cathode) of each tube. As tubes age, their plate current gradually decreases until the volume and power they produce becomes deficient. Your tubes have probably aged to the point that their cathode and plate current are insufficient to activate the relay. They should probably be replaced with new tubes (Antique Electronic Supply is a good source). Measuring plate current is a slightly tricky and hazardous procedure, but it's part of the tube biasing procedure covered in my video about biasing double-ended amplifiers. This measurement is not really necessary if you are simply going to replace the old tubes. Good luck.
Uncle Doug Doug, thanks for the quick reply, the word of caution on the high voltage pin 3, and a source for purchasing new 6L6's. I will definitely replace the two 6L6's to eliminate that component's possible weak link from the equation. Thinking ahead, if I still have problems with the quick-start relay, what is the typical resistance I can expect across the relay's two leads if I de-solder and isolate the relay? If a short in the relay coil exists, can I check current draw by de-soldering one lead of the relay and placing my meter in series on that lead? And what kind of reading can I expect to see on my meter? Finally, if I need to find a replacement relay, do you have a source? I appreciate your patience with all my questions.
Glenn, if the relay can hold after you help it close, then it is, more than likely, just fine. The problem is the weak current flow through the coil. The coil resistance is quite hard to read on the Wurlitzer schematic, but I believe it is 130 ohms. I don't know the current off hand. The only replacement source I can think of is: www.jukebox-parts.com/ Good luck.
Uncle Doug Doug, I appreciate your patience with all my questions. I have one final question as I have been researching the 6L6GC's. Purchasing "matched" tubes appear to be the way to go when checking mutual conductance, shorts, leaks, "life tests" for current reductions. Maybe this is not so important for the start relay portion of the amplifier. Antique Electronic Supply has many tubes listed under 6L6GC, such as 6L6GC-M-STR, Ruby Tubes, 6L6 CHP Groove Tubes Black Plate Matched Pair, etc, etc.... I would REALLY appreciate it if you have a recommendation of what matched pair would be a good choice for my Wurlitzer 1100.
The JJ matched pair #004732 at $36.40 would probably do just fine. The "matching" simply indicates that they will have very similar plate current, and this will bias similarly with a single bias resistor, as in your circuit.
+357bullfrog I believe that Wurlitzer made some radios, 357, but to the best of my knowledge they never made any guitar amps. It's a shame, because all they needed to add was a 1/4" input jack and a built-in volume control.
Great videos! I’ve had a 1015 for almost 40 years and never completely understood how it worked until now. I am presently working on redoing gate wiring etc. Probably ran into you at the Chicago shows. Thanks for the videos! Are you available for consultation over the phone?
Thanks, Jerry. I did go to the Chicago Show several times. You're welcome. No, I avoid the phone like the plague.....it interferes with my daily routine.
You have usually been good about answering my comments and questions. I have a very important one. I am determined to find a 45 record changer similar to the record changers in jukeboxes, but as a free standing unit. I thought I remembered seeing one made by Wurlitzer but I am not sure who made it. Do you know of a 45 record rack changer? The RCA 45 record changer turntable is not what I'm looking for...
Both Seeburg and Wurlitzer made free-standing record changing units for locations that didn't have room for a jukebox. The changer unit could be hidden in a broom closet, with remote selectors at each booth and remote wall speakers. The Seeburg "Library" unit played both sides of 100 different 45 RPM records, and is much more compact than the Wurlitzer unit that only played one side of 24 78-RPM records. Here is a link to info on the Seeburg Library Unit: www.seeburgremote.net/library_unit.shtml
Hang on a minute... can we split hairs about what a relay vs. a solenoid is? I think a solenoid does something mechanical using an electromagnet, and a relay does something to connect electrical current rather than the mechanical operation that a solenoid would do, is that right?
Yes, I think you're on the right track. A relay generally uses a small amount of current to energize an electromagnet and close a switch that permits a large amount of current to flow. A good example would be a horn or starter relay in a car......and the quick-start relay in the Wurlitzer amp.
+357bullfrog Yes, indeed. With a 15" electrodynamic speaker it would have been a good, stout guitar or bass amp with plenty of power and bass response.
It's not practical, Ari, since the two-way freight would be exorbitant. My advice would be to get a service manual from Victory Glass Co. and do the repairs and adjustments yourself. Good luck.
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Thanks again, Cal. I bought, sold, and restored jukeboxes full-time for about 15 years during the heyday of the Nostalgia craze (the 80's and early 90's). It's good to know that there are folks out there, like you, who still love these wonderful old machines. Music is a very emotional medium, and listening to an old jukebox play songs from our carefree youth can really be a very moving experience. Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.
Very nice amplifier and jukebox. The fast-start relay system is very ingenious!
+davida1hiwaaynet Thanks, David....glad you liked it :)
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it. I will be posting a close-up tour of the entire jukebox in the near future, so stay tuned.
Awesome! My 88 year old neighbor has a 78 model."Lights but no sound" , he said He asked me to look at it. Since retirement, I got rid of all my test equipment. I tossed a current limiter together and plugged it in. First visual noticed one tube not glowing. I really didn't look long enough to notice a tube chart. Due to the size, it's not cost effective to ship off. Thanks to this video, it gives me enough information to make a guess that a tube failed. I'll have to use a multimeter to try and determine why it failed. These old caps are always to be questioned. Such a work of art, should be repaired. The big strike, is it being a 78.
Thanks for sharing your passion. Warms my heart.
+Andrew Poole You're welcome, Andrew :)
Your 1015 is a dream! The info about the bubbler lights is fascinating. I love the lollipop tone arm! While my repro 1015 is "all plastic," I love the atmosphere of the lighting, bubbling lights, reject mechanism. Amazing! Thanks again for your extremely informative videos, UNCLE DOUG! What a magical time it was...in the heyday of the mighty jukeboxes!
Really brings back memories. My Dad and Mom owned a "drug store" in the mid '40s in Oklahoma. One of these sat in the back. The kids would play it and dance. We would put finger nail polish on the coins to identify our start-up money to get the joint rockin'. Love this tour of this classic! Thanks very much.
You're welcome, EW. Thanks for sharing this with us.
It's such a beautiful and romantic machine. Thanks for sharing.
+Cue Zephyr You're welcome, CZ :)
Wow - thanks for showing and explaining all that!
You're welcome, NR.
Thank you very much for a highly commendable effort.
I subscribed a week ago after following your videos for
sometime! Fortunately, found them all very refreshing &
informative. I am well into my seventies now, but when
in my early twenties, studied at Cal Poly. I have been
making transistor amplifiers along with active & passive
speaker systems for a long time now! My family lives in
the US, but I have a workshop near Tehran the capital of
Iran. I travel to the States to visit them and they travel to
this country to see me! Hoping you have not abandoned
me already, I decided to continue my work here in Iran
because there are a good number of audio enthusiasts
who are disappointed in the imported big brands selling
at exorbitant sums. They prefer the sound of my amp
particularly since I substituted the transistor pre amp
with a vacuum tube one using a single 6922 or E 88CC!
Frankly, this was my first encounter with working with
vacuum tubes! My dear Uncle Doug, if you are not sick
and tired already, please be kind enough to allow me to
finish in the next installment!! Thank you so much for
your time and patience. Yours sincerely Amir Souti
It's great to hear from you, Amir. We never tire of your comments and input.
Welcome, Cal. I hope you enjoy all the jukebox videos.
Love this. It looks great and sounds great.
Thanks, Davo. I'm glad you liked it :)
Too funny Doug on owing our existence to this amp!!!! You're a friggin trip brother. We need to hang out drink beer and fix amps together!!!! lol
Sounds like a winning proposition, JT :)
Its amazing at the simplicity of these great jukeboxes ,something so simple but had to be adjusted just right to function
They do indeed require precise adjustment, Mark.
Who does the repair on the seeburg black and gray boxes , didital decoder boxes ? ,also a good connection for amp rebuild kits ? ,I've used victory glass for years ,know these guys from Chicago land jukebox shows ,but would like to find other sources for parts,?
I have no idea about digital devices, Mark. I only worked on jukeboxes from the 30's up to the mid-50's. I have always relied upon Victory Glass for my parts, and Ebay if VGC doesn't have what I need. A fellow named Bill Butterfield at Musical Fun for Everyone has a large selection of vintage parts.
Uncle Doug thank you for the info , I've talked with him at the Chicago shows , I've got their number somewhere , I still operate some jukes and its always good to know where the parts are . You can still find old machines around this area . I've collected a few ,222 seeburg ss160 seeburg a few Wurlitzer's I haven't looked at yet ,and some early 60s a m I Rowe's .
The early jukeboxes have disappeared around this area, Mark. The only time they come to light is when some old collector croaks or gets in financial trouble.
That was a real piece of art, great video, thanks so much.
You're welcome, Ron :)
The thought and design that went into these, even a drip pan to catch any oil or grease. And yes, so iconic.
They come from a period in our past when quality and engineering reigned supreme :)
I learned 'vacuum tube' theory on a 3 stage amplifier that I designed, built and tested myself at a school not too far from the Wurlitzer plant. Your video was excellent and really brought back a lot of memories. I haven't seen vacuum tubes glow in 45 years. mu = Rp *gm remember?
It sounds like you learned it the right way, bB. Personal experimentation is, by far, the most effective way to learn any craft. I'm glad the video was helpful and brought back some good memories.....and formulas :)
I love Wurlitzer jukeboxes. Love the bubbles. I remember the first time I saw one as a kid. Fell in love at first sight. Awesome video, as usual.
Thanks so much, Tony. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I've posted several other jukebox videos which may be of interest. Please check them out when you get a chance :)
You're welcome, Tony. Same to you.
Wow gorgeous jukebox Uncle! 😊
Thanks, Woody :)
There is a pre-war Wurlitzer at my old Church in the chapel. The inside is pretty much identical to this but it's in just a plain wooden box with a fancy speaker box and remote selector mounted to one end of a pew...It's loaded up with a selection of hymns and the Mendelssohn wedding march... That heater relay really spooked me when I first got it going and saw those tubes glowing so bright for the first few seconds, at some point someone had replaced the speaker with a permanent magnet one and took out the big coil from the old speaker and kept it wired into the amp... Last time I visited my old church it was still there but unplugged and idle. : (
+Tony Miller It sounds like a Wurlitzer Model 1017, Tony, which is a plain wooden box with a complete jukebox mechanism within. They were made for use in locations where bright appearance was not desirable......just selective music, i.e. a church, some restaurants, etc. If the church isn't using it and needs money, they should offer it for sale. The mechanical parts are rather valuable.
Just the coolest. Takes me back to another time. You’re the best, Uncle. Good vibrations to you, friend 🤙📱⚗️oh, and please give that sweet cat Mitsy a little pat for me 🐈 ❤
Glad to hear it, D. Will do :)
Howdy,
I have a 25 cycle version - the 504. It is darn heavy - but it worked with 60 cycle (not the other way around). Bought it about 1963 and used it as my first Guitar amp with some FC speakers. Seeing your post I might just revive it!
Cheers
Paul W
As I recall, the 25 Hz version has a much larger power transformer. By all means, drag it out and spruce it up for the New Year.
WOW! WAS I EVER LUCKY TO FIND THIS SITE!
I appreciate you posting this video so much.
Nothing like it. Gorgeous. Once that song started playing a ridiculous grin spread across my face. Still stuck there. Thanks, fellow Doug, for the great videos.
I gotta wonder how many people restoring these would have altered the turntable (or tried to) in order to minimize record wear..
Thanks so much, Doug. We're glad yo enjoyed the video :)
Very informative! BTW, regarding the fast-warmup circuit, RockOla did the same thing. Seeburg kept the heaters on all the time because their new Select-O-matic mechanism could possibly play the first record immediately, depending on how far the mechanism had to scan, while Wurlitzer's changer took the exact same time no matter what record it played. The later model Wurlitzers of the early fifties did away with the fast-start relay and kept the heaters at 5 volts all the time. Since nearly all tube failures occur at startup, this extended their life. Yes you are correct that tubes were much cheaper then (!) but a non-working jukebox with a burned out tube made no money.
Thanks for all the good info, Jimmy :)
I'm pretty new to TH-cam and channels like yours are just blowing me away.
That juke box is beautiful!
You've been doing this for years. Yes, mice are a problem! They recently attacked my 1968 C20.
I can't purchase enough poison to put a dent in them.
I even seen a northern jumping wood mouse while mowing, that's not even supposed to be in this area.
I was gaining on him with the rider mower until he started hopping and I noticed the long hind legs and long curly tail.
He lost me fast.
It sounds like you're the coyote and the mouse is the roadrunner, Amo.
@@UncleDoug .
So true!
My uncle had a tavern and was constantly fighting with customers who wanted the jukebox louder. Great machines they were.
Ken Bird Greetings, Ken. It's a well known medical phenomenon that human hearing diminishes in direct relation to time and booze consumption :)
really lovely
Thanks, MR :)
It would probably be a monster, especially with the 15" electrodynamic speaker. I am thinking about making a conversion plug that allows me to plug a guitar into the volume control box (instead of the cartridge input) and use the jukebox as a big, lit-up guitar amp. If it happens, I'll post it on TH-cam.
Thanks for sharing this. Working one one of these amps, trying to find how others have dealt with not having the original field coil speaker.. If I understand correctly, the field coil does not serve as a typical power supply choke; it taps off the B+ psu at the first filter cap to ground. With the amp I'm repairing, the previous tech didn't mod the PSU. As a result, the B+ was waaay too high- 450+ volts. I'm adding 50W power resistors- a 10K where the choke was and 100 ohms from the rectifier filament to the 1st filter cap. Also, I'm using a 5R4 rectifier as it has more voltage drop than a 5U4. All this dropped the B+ down to ~325 vdc; close enough to the designed 315vdc.
You're welcome, Kent. It is an unusual circuit, that necessitates provision of high-wattage resistance (50W+) in place of a missing 5.2K Ohm field coil. Without this "bleeder" to ground, the B+ would definitely exceed the max PV, especially for 6L6 metal) and 6L6G and GB output tubes.
Thanks Doug, I enjoyed this one very much...... Freddie B from Guitar and Amp Repair....... Freddie B......
Fred Bassett You're welcome, Fred. Glad you liked it :)
Hi Doug. I did extensive research some years ago re the W1015 and found the following data for manufacturing. There were 56,246 of them shipped, but the actual production/manufacturing number was 60,400. Also, the serial plate on the back of both the '46 and '47 models corresponded to the year built and the day of the year manufactured. For example, If the serial number started with 1 it was a 1946; a 2 indicated a '47. However, the number series also included the day of the 365 day year that it was physically made. As an example, if the jukebox was made on Jan 10, 1947, the numbers would read 2010... if you look at a 1947 calendar, it would indicate the precise day of the week it was made. Very cool.
Very interesting information, Ed. Thanks for sharing it with us :)
Earth angel so good, thanks for sharing
Thanks for listening, Kolin :)
Dang it UD, if I would have watched this last week I might have had a sliver of a chance at guessing the type of bad ass lighting you might use in the Steam Punk amp... I'm catching all your videos. I REALLY appreciate you making them!
Yes, indeed, FWR.......this is where the idea came from :) I'm glad you're enjoying all the videos.
WOW! Such a beautiful and iconic unit.
Always wanted to own one of these and the older round ones but price and floor space is an issue
Thanks, 1974. Prices have come down, but are still far from cheap.
Man, that's hella lotta spooky at the end when that thing fires up. Reminded me of that movie "Christine". The bubble lights are hitnatizing! ;)
Thanks, FWR :) This is where I got the idea for the bubblers in the Steam Punk amp.
@@UncleDoug off the top of your head, have you ever ran across any Amp that had one 12AX7, and one 6AQ5? (and of course a rectifier tube) '45ish... Trying to find similar schematics that are not signal tracers. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I'm sorry to say that I have not, FWR. I have rarely, if ever, encountered amps using 6AQ5 tubes.
@@UncleDoug that's OK. It's probably a guitar Amp for hobbits. I found it hiding inside my signal tracer. So far I've gleaned that it is a beam power tube mfd in the mid forties. On the schematic it's closest to the OT. I'm wondering if I can change it to a similar newer tube. Maybe give me a few more watts to the speaker. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!
@@UncleDoug When in doubt, gaggle the hell out of it! :)
Well done! I wish I would have found this 6 months ago when I was struggling with a 1937 616. I had to replace the fiber gear among other issues like frozen cam rollers, gummed up shaft bearings, etc. I would like to see a step by step video of how you replace those gears. There's many ways to skin a cat as they say, but watching someone with more experience can teach you shortcuts that will save time and aggravation in the future. I think more detail about the reject part of the mechanism would have been interesting but you would have had to have the mechanism out to get a camera in there to see it work. Even though I understood most of what you were explaining you still cleared up a few things that I didn't quite understand how they worked. The service manuals aren't all that great Thanks for your effort and time!
Thanks, Cliff. I'm glad the videos have been helpful. You're right about the inability to properly show the reject parts deep within the mechanism. I just couldn't bring myself to disassemble a nicely-operating mechanism to gain access to them.
You're also right about replacing the fiber drive gear.....it's no fun at all. I got a great deal on a nice Wurlitzer 750 many years ago because it had a stripped fiber gear. The owner had tried to replace it, and after several days of escalating frustration and misery, he finally became so disgusted that he sold the jukebox as-is just to be rid of the problem.
About the only way I can see making a fiber gear replacement video would be if one of my jukeboxes required the repair, and I could document the procedure. Quite frankly, I hope this never happens :)))
Far out, man... I have one of these in a closet as one of those projects needing a round-tuit. The HV Secondary on the PT is open on mine.
Westerly Sunn Good luck with it, WS :)
neat!!!
+Melonheadinbed Thanks :)
Hey UD, I'm on the hunt. Apparently the venerable Fender 5F1 Champ has a very "similar" tube comliment as the Eico 147A Signal tracer. 5F1- 1 of each 12AX7, 6V6, 5Y3. 147A- 1 of each 12AX7, 6AQ5, 6X4. The 5F1 produces 5 massive watts. To achieve the desired result, I'll have to squeeze 2 or 3 more watts out of the Eico. Hopefully the 3 transformers (PT, OT, & Current Transformer no idea) will cooperate. If successful I'll call it the Eico Chimp. If not, I'll christen it The Chump. The important point is to learn. Thank you for the inspiration, the education, and the laughs! Keep you posted... :)
I hope the transformers and rectifier tube are up to the challenge, FWR. If not, I hope your fire insurance is up to date:) Good luck with your project.
@@UncleDoug That is my concern as well. And as most house fires are non habit forming, I have much more to study. And the more you study the luckier you get? I give you my word as a fellow mad scientist that I will perform due diligence before applying da juice. When it's finished I'll have a healthy tracer/guitar tester, so nothing too crazy. ;) But the knowledge & the fun... priceless. Looking forward to your next awesome video!
Cool video.
Thanks, John :)
I'm working on a couple early McIntosh 50w-2 Monoblock amps. They have two 6J5 tubes driving 6L6s through a transformer phase inverter. These bad boys must weigh 100 lbs a piece. They would make a great guitar amp.
obrigado Mr. Uncle Doug gosto do som de piano elétrico Wurlitzer
amplificador é o primeiro que vejo um abraço Mestre
Thanks, Jorge :) I am glad you like it.
For a time we lived upstairs over the tavern and while we could not hear the mid-range up there, the bass boom was always there. Could be why later I became an audiophile and electrical engineer.
Ken Bird This reminds me of one of my "pet peeves": cars that pull up next to me at stop lights, with their 1KW stereo systems and six 15" bass speakers, blasting the occupants with a 150dB cacophony of unintelligible thumps and booms, turning whats left of their feeble brains into jelly........I guess I'm just getting old :)
+Uncle Doug Not old just sensible , I remember investing a lot of money in the late 70's early 80's ,striving to get that live band sound in my cars and vans .I wonder what i would have done given the choices today Even if I could have that power and sound that is available today I could never EQ or X-over my rig to sound like that . To me there 's no relation to even the best of bands or recordings . Hey so we're both old .
.I used to have inconsiderate neighbors with teenagers and their friends would park in the street with that bone rattling thump, Id go and get me big sledge(sludge) hammer and start slamming my truck bumper tow hitch on every down beat ,they turned it down and drove away . Another fix but for truckers only , When I was truckin and one of those trunk rattling monsters pulled up beside me at a stop light ,Id flip on my engine fan switch then hold the revs high that big fan and Cat motor with straights will drown out most anything short of a jet on take off .Ok so I was temporarily part of the problem but they turned it down or drove away from me quick .Most cities have an ordnance regarding that type of thing but Ive never seen it enforced .
project idea for you D,with your wealth of knowledge ,maybe you could come up with an EMP device in a taser type gun that will shoot a tiny wire and instead of a barbed needle on the end ,a tiny magnetic contact then zap the car's body shooting a ka -zillion volts thru the ground ............well you get the picture
+Eddie Joe Gongre And to think the old Craig Powerplay 8-track started it all
on some jukeboxes the relay coil was wired as the 6L6's cathode bias res.
when the tubes conducted the relay closed allowing power to the turntable motor
Mr71chevyvan In the 1015 amp, the relay coil is the cathode bias resistor for the 6L6's; however, the opening and closing of the relay contacts simply changes the filament voltage from 9V for rapid warm up down to 6V for record playing purposes. Thanks for your input.
I had a chassis like this one a long time ago. I found it in the trash or something. I was hanging on to it for parts. I think it was even mostly red
It may have been a Wurlitzer jukebox amp, MS. They were red after WWII.
That was a great upload thanks! What a brilliant way of getting a fast start up for a valve amplifier. The later jukes simply left the heaters ( filiaments ) lit and took off the ht rail but this is much much cleverer! Thanks for the post. Great Doo wop too!
DAVESOUNDSMATAMP You're welcome, Dave. Glad you liked the video and QS relay concept :)
DAVESOUNDSMATAMP ...Jeese 9.6v on a standard 6.3v valve...I would imagine it would wear them out very quickly indeed...but its a handy little trick though...!!!.
I understand why it appears that this would be hard on tubes, but most jukebox amp 6L6's lasted for many years. I guess the filaments are pretty tough :)
Hi there Uncle Doug, Yeh, its a bit of a round about way actually...I would have thought like matey said here...that it would have been a better way to leave the amp on all the time...but Cut the B+ HT line from the Rec' ( 5U4G ) between plays....where the dropping coin could flick a little switch or relay type thing..to turn on the HT...or even something on the record player mech itself, could do this..?? :)
Hi there Uncle Doug, Yeh, its a bit of a round about way actually...I would have thought like matey said here...that it would have been a better way to leave the amp on all the time...but Cut the B+ HT line from the Rec' ( 5U4G ) between plays....where the dropping coin could flick a little switch or relay type thing..to turn on the HT...or even something on the record player mech itself, could do this..even maybe a little relay that the ARM could sit on ( next to its rest )..therefore when the arm lifts off to play a record..it could activate the relay to switch it on...then when it returns to its rest..it could then switch it off again...this way it would not over wear the valves. !!! :)Uncle Doug
Can you take us through all record stack and tone arm adjustments? Thanks!
Raf, it would take many paragraphs to fully satisfy your request, and a verbal explanation might be confusing. If there is interest in these topics, I may produce a video to demonstrate these adjustments. Meanwhile, the Wurlitzer 1015 manual (probably posted somewhere on the Internet) offers a step-by-step procedure for these adjustments. Good luck !!!
50 cycles was also used in America, hence the range of operation. Back until the mid-1950s, half of Los Angeles was 50 cycles (West) and 60 cycles (East and downtown). So Hammond organs had to have special motors depending on which side of town they were being used, otherwise the pitch would be off...
Very interesting, Brian. Thanks for sharing.
Ia it possible to gut the filter capacitors and place a modern one inside the can and thus keep the outer and inner look? Sorry if this is an ignorant question or maybe someone had already asked....
Yes, it is possible, but it's a miserable, messy job. I prefer to simply hide the new caps within the sealed chassis.
Earth Angel.....I keep hearing that song over and over... maybe you played a few intro chords from that song in one'
of your other videos testing a guitar amp? Good explanation referring to the schematic.
What kind of max wattage would the two 6L6 generate to drive that 15 inch speaker?
+SuperCarver2011 Thanks, SC. I would think the power output was around 22 to 24 Watts.
Hello Uncle Doug,
i'm working on a seeburg jukebox right now, and on the shematic there is a double pontentiometer with the marks R and F. i don't know what this means, but could it be rear and front?
Thanks
Ben
Can't you tell the purpose of the pot from it's position in the circuit? Analyze the schematic and it should provide the answer.
How does high starting filament voltage affect tube life?
No doubt, the rapid start at higher voltage must shorten the filament life expectancy.
Uncle Doug why not use low standby current like in some picture tube fast-starting tv sets?
I recall repairing a few of these back on the 80’s and early 90’s for a guy who bought old jukeboxes and brought them back to looking beautiful again. My background is in electronics and these amps were just great. Usually just new capacitors was all that was required to fix them.
I have a question (now that I finally own one of these great jukeboxes) - is there a kit available that converts the pick up to a more modern and lighter tracking version that won’t wear records out so quickly? Thanks for another informative and interesting video!
In the old days, you could buy Astatic 51-2 cartridges at reasonable prices and then make the light-tracking conversion to both the tone arm, shut off mechanism, and amplifier (impedance modification)......but I understand that now, these cartridges are generally not available. You'll have to hunt one down on the Internet. Good luck.
@@UncleDoug I have an extra Astatic cartridge that came out of my AMI C jukebox. Since the AMI was modified for 45 rpm the needle may be the wrong one. I’ll take a look but I suspect 78 rpm 2 mil needles can still be found for that cartridge.
Super Duper !
Thanks, Kal.
I found one of these at Goodwill should I buy it? 150$, missing a couple tubes but can replace those
My first response is: What the hell is Goodwill doing charging $150 for an incomplete, non-working jukebox amp that was donated to them by someone who thought it was a charity, when it isn't......it is a strictly for-profit business......which is why they are trying to price gouge you. I would offer them $50 for it and maybe go up a little, but their asking price is high, in my book. They are great amps but require an electrodynamic speaker with a 5200 Ohm field coil.
Hi Doug do you know much about the amplifier for a rockola princess deluxe, I'm not sure if it's valve or solid state I've got the jukebox but it's missing the amplifier I need to get hold or make one! any help on this. Thanks! From your dragon fly across the pond!!!!
I've got some Fender speakers 12 inch drivers somebody told me they worth money do you know if there?
I've always thought about putting a Bluetooth adaptor inside a jukebox so you can connect your phone and use it as a bluetooth speaker not really seen anybody do this what do you think you give it a go! I think if you connect the Bluetooth on the first valves where the cartridge would go the other side of this? or on a solid state the op amp, put a separate transformer and some filtering.
I have seen Rockola Princesses, John, and believe they had tube amps. You would have to do Internet searches and watch Ebay for a replacement. I have no jukebox parts. Fender speakers, in good shape, are always desirable. You could list them on Ebay. The Bluetooth adapter sounds interesting. I tend to keep my jukeboxes completely original, but others may enjoy making this modification. Thanks !!!
Uncle Doug where can I get a schematic for a rockola jukebox got a website. I don't use eBay, I'm just thinking of the Bluetooth idea because jukeboxes have lost their value in previous years, and something like this will increase its value back again. I don't think it's going to affect it's originality! But add value back to the jukebox? Its something that can be taken out and not affect it's originality. I just thought you might have been the person maybe who could do a segment on this for people who are restoring their own jukeboxes to give them an extra purpose.
Tone control question I have a 503 amp and I thought i replaced every thing needed to make it work correctly including all caps and carbon composite resisters except for the old school strange looking resisters and the pots.( My problem is no response from the bass control ) the only thing i know to be out of spec is the 2400 ohm field coil which i have not fixed yet. Any ideas on that bass control ?
What phono cartridge are you using? Does it sound like a transistor radio....shrill and no bass?
it still has the original magnetic grind needle which does not have much output. I have been testing with an mp3 player connected threw the volume box.
I have no idea what the output characteristics are for your mp3 player. If there is an impedance mismatch, bass frequencies are usually the first to go. I have converted all my jukeboxes to modern diamond stylus crystal cartridges, like the Astatic 51-2.....the old magnetic cartridges were unreliable and destroyed records because they track at 3.5 ounces....not grams. The volume control box has all sorts of resistors and capacitors to ground that will lose signal. Bypass the volume control and input the mp3 signal right into the amp input, using the mp3 player's volume control. Start off with it at 0 volume and increase very slowly.
With the needle it is week , shrill like a transistor radio. With the mp3 in the amp direct it is stronger cleaner but leans toward the bass and no bass control . When i convert to astatic 51-2 is there any changes to the volume box or amp to accommodate the new cartridge ?
Yes, you remove all electronics from the volume control box and install a 1Meg potentiometer to serve as the new volume control. The 51-2 does not work well with the old circuitry.
Thanks for the 1015 videos. Can you recommend anyone in the Los Angeles area who does service calls for an old 1015 78 rpm machine? It has not been used in 10+ years and needs contact cleaning and fine tune adjustments. Tom
You're welcome, Tom. I haven't worked on jukeboxes in about 20 years and have lost contact with techs who may still work on them. Look up Amusement Machines in the Yellow Pages.
Hello U. Doug -
Thank you for the quick response. After cleaning moving parts most of my problems have disappeared.
@@tomparker5267 It's best to be self-reliant when it comes to vintage jukebox maintenance, Tom. Otherwise, it can get quite frustrating.
I had good success using LPS1 Greaseless Lubricant. I poured LPS1 into in a small squeeze bottle that had a long dispensing tube and was able to apply it where needed. After turning the motor over by hand (forward and backward) the mechanisms freed up.
@@tomparker5267 Thanks for the helpful tip, Tom.
Hmmm, is there much stopping a guitar amp conversion beside the ED speaker? I have found one in rough condition locally and would love to see it used!
+Sam McFarlane I believe it would make an excellent guitar amp, Sam, and you can use an 8 ohm permanent magnet speaker simply by substituting a 5.2K ohm 25W resistor or a filter choke for the field coil in the ED speaker. If you do this, please let us know how it turns out.
Another great video featuring my favourite technology! I understand valves much more than those transistor things. We saw the amp and the volume control box. But there was another box on the opposite side with things plugged into it. What is that?
Do the other tubes get a higher voltage to the heaters as well, or just the 6L6Gs? If not, are they running continuously?
The other box is a junction box, to which all electrical devices are plugged.....amp, motor, lights, etc. I believe all the tubes get a 9V jolt to wake them up from their slumber. They are not on until a record is played.
@@UncleDoug Thank you for the explanation.
I may be wrong, but I heard that some jukeboxes in the UK work the other way round, the valve heaters are kept on a low heat, and then fed with their full voltage when a record is selected.
It's possible to have a copy if the schematic where I can read the value?
My copy is not very good, Andrea, but if you can't find a better one on line, let me know and I can post a digital photo of the one I have.
Hey Uncle Doug, this is yet another phase inverter type I really haven't had any knowledge or experience. I viewed interstage phase inverting transformers as primary and secondary. Could you, or did you, post any information about this type of phase inverter? I did watch the phase inverter video featuring tubes, that I'm familiar with, but this one is new to me.
Several of my videos have discussed the use of a transformer for phase inversion, CnS, but I can't recall the exact titles. You can also find explanations on the internet. Good luck.
@@UncleDoug Yeah, I was thinking about looking them up, somehow, but like I said, I'm familiar with the "typical" interstage coupling transformer having a separate primary and a center tapped secondary. Am I to assume that this are calle interstage audio coupling transformers or do they have another specific name? Thanks.
It seems like stressing the heater filaments like that would create some of the same problems they were trying to alleviate (assuming it was all done for tube life). I wonder if they could have just brought the filament voltage down between songs and just kept the tubes in an almost ready mode.
The quick-start relay is not to preserve tube life, it is to ensure that a selected record is fully audible from its starting groove. This process will shorten tube filament life, but will maintain customer satisfaction.....which mattered more than tubes back in the 40's :)
@@UncleDoug Well, I'm confused. If it's not there to extend tube life, then why not leave the amp powered as long as the jukebox is on. What's the reason for turning the amp off between selections?
@@bryede I agree that there may have been other, better approaches, but that's the way Wurlitzer designed and built them.
Uncle Doug, great video, very informitive. I have a Wurlitzer 1015 that has suddenly stopped playing sound. The mechanism functions perfectly so I believe the problem is in the amp. None of the tubes glow or get warm when on. Do you have any ideas on how I could trouble shoot it and get it working again? Thanks so much!
+Joseph Bloomingdale Plug the amp into an extension cord and see if it works. If not, then check the amp fuse. If it's blown, and if new fuses continue to blow, then the amp circuit is drawing too much current and should be looked at by a qualified technician.
+Uncle Doug thanks so much I'll give that a try.
+Uncle Doug it worked by plugging the amp into an extension cord! Is it safe to leave like this a play it like that for a while? So there is a problem with the box the amp plugs into then?
Playing with an extension cord should be no problem. Somewhere in the credit circuit, between the coin grinder, junction box, and the amp, there is a contact (that should turn on the amp) that is not being closed. It could be as simple as a bad or loose amp socket on the junction box. You will have to trace through this circuit to find the open spot.
+Uncle Doug thanks a lot I will look into this and try to fix it.
I need your help!
I have this exact same jukebox as you and I recently moved into a new home.
I went to turn in on today for the first time since the move and noticed it wasn’t playing sound. The speaker still seamed to be working but not playing music. After a few minutes of the jukebox being on, the amplifier started smoking so I unplugged it immediately.
Do you have any suggestions on how I should start troubleshooting this problem??
To be honest, LP, if you have to ask where to start, you probably shouldn't be working on the amp. With 500VDC on hand to cause bodily injury, you'd best seek some qualified assistance.
Hi, liked the video, how much neg feedback is set? i have a massive Wurlitzer power amp with twin 6L6 tubes & vibrato section, it take 10 tubes in total - 5U4 - 12AX7 (4) - 12FQ8 (3) its marked as an organ amplifier Number 501846-01
The plan is to get it ready as a guitar amp for next year, i've not powered up as yet! would you have a schematic by any chance or any general info would be helpful.
Thanks
The Model 503 amp for the Wurlitzer 1015 has no negative feedback loop. I have modified Baldwin and Hammond organ amps for guitar use, but have never worked on a Wurlitzer organ amp. As a result, I have no Wurlitzer organ schematics, so you'll have to do a schematic search on the Internet. The number you quoted sounds more like a serial number than a model number to me, so it might not work in your search. I have never heard of 12FQ8 tubes, so you might include this tube number in your search, since it should really narrow down the possibilities. Good luck !!
Can't find a model number, reckon the 12FQ8 tubes are part of the tremelo/vibrato circuit, thanks will keep on searching.
a great description of this wonder fly simple and great amplifier. Who made the 15" Electrodynamic speaker Jenson or Magnavox?
Thanks, MS. I believe the Wurlitzer 1015 speakers were made by Magnavox. I don't think Jensen was involved.
Jensen.
Sorry to contradict you, Ed, but the speaker code on the majority of W-1015 speakers that I have encountered is 232, which is Magnavox. The speaker in the 1015 in the video is No. 232639: a Magnavox speaker made in the 39th week of 1946.
Uncle Doug
Well, I guess you would know that for sure so I'll defer to your expertise on this. I am working now on a 1937 Rock-ola Rhythm King, a 12-selection 78rpm unit. The cabinet is made from solid walnut veneers and the frame uses lots of inlays. Beautiful construction. And yes, Wurlitzer jukes were over-engineered compared to RO. I restored a W1500A a few years ago that took 4 long years to restore. We had to re-engineer some of the mech parts as there were many flaws built into this model. A nightmare to be sure. The worst was having 2 trays coming out from either stacker and jamming as the turntable rose -- crunch! The manual is really not great so troubleshooting this model is difficult. After a long time watching this mechanism cycle we noticed that the cam follower was loose. After tightening and adjusting it that problem never came back. Love your videos. Very informative. TX.
You're welcome, Ed. Thanks for all the great info and input. The 1500 and 1550 were, to me, the most complex and frustrating of all the Wurlitzer models. Plus, they weighed a ton. I too restored and owned one for several years, but always expected (and dreaded) a malfunction. You must admit, however, their ability to play both sides of 45's and 78's (intermixed) was interesting.....and responsible for their absurd complexity.
Very interesting with the relay on the filaments. Probably a little hard on the filaments. Tubes wouldn't last as long.
True, KG, but 6L6's were much cheaper and more plentiful back in those days :)
I noticed the resistors were not replaced ,given the age of this amp , resisters as they age drift up in value(ohms)
They may drift a bit, but it doesn't seem to adversely affect the tone of the amp.
Look at that baby maker!
No doubt, after WW II, there were lots of boomer babies created as a result :)
I wurlitzer amplifier 1100, that possibility is not heard you have to get a diagram?
The Wurlitzer 1100 used a Model 506 amp. Here is the schematic: www.verntisdale.com/schem/506.jpg
Very kind of you link, I hope to find the fault and congratulations for your videos
You're welcome, JJ. Good luck with the repair(s)......
the "6L6" push-pull output of this amp is the 3RD stage of ampllification
Sounds reasonable, Greg
are the 6l 6's in push pull, and if so will you explain what that means?
+HomoSex is Not Gods Best 4U Yes, they are. See my video on output transformers for an explanation of how this works.
qual a tensão de entrada e saída do transformador do reverber para uso como referencia desde já obrigado
Não tenho certeza do que é um transformador reverberador, Jorge. Além disso, não tenho especificações de tensão para o amplificador.
esta em amplificador Fender reverber especificações do transformador
drive 022321 305-3-32 esta ligado no tanque reverberador
Sim, entendo que este é o transformador que aciona o tanque de reverberação, não tenho idéia das voltagens para dentro ou para fora, Jorge. Esta não é uma medida que eu já tomei ou lembrei de ver.
Hi uncle Doug,
How difficult would it be to convert a Seeburg MA1-L6 jukebox master amplifier into a guitar amp? Is it doable? I haven't done a lot of amp work but am pretty good with a soldering iron. Thanks.
I have never tried converting a Seeburg amp for guitar use, Dave, but I would think it would be fairly straightforward.....add an input jack, it already has volume and tone controls, provide some means for it to communicate with speaker(s) of appropriate impedance. Let us know if you do it :)
Are there any sonic advantages to the electrodynamic speaker system? Have you 'splained all this in one of your video's already? I may have to go Back to the Future to find it^8-)
There are definitely practical advantages, since the field coil never loses its magnetism and also serves as a great filter choke......but as far as sound, I have never been overwhelmed by any audible differences.
what cartridge did you use to replace the original high out put cartridge. great vids by the way
Thanks, Andrew. I generally replace the huge, heavy electromagnetic cartridge with an Astatic 51-2 cartridge.
what is the fuse amp??????
Probably around 2A.
Do you know of a source where I can get one of those Tone Compensator plates?
Westerly Sunn Try Victory Glass Co. in Des Moines, Iowa.
...and they have it! Thanks...
They have, or can get, just about any part you could ever need, WS. They are an excellent site staffed by great people.
Hi Doug, I have a Wurlitzer 1100 that I really have enjoyed for the last 12 years. I must admit that I am not an electronics genius, but I can at least read voltages with my meter. I want to thank you so much for describing how the amp works, as I am now getting some understanding at how my amp works on my 1100.
For some unknown reason, the relay will not stay energized without some coaxing with the help of my finger.
With that said, I wanted to ask you how to troubleshoot problems with my quick start relay. If I force activation with my finger, I can get the 1100 to play wonderful music. And I can see that the relay can then hold its own and the relay electromagnet will do a great job continuing to activate. But wait 10 mins. and the same thing happens.
I looked at the schematic, and I see that the 1100 also has two 6L6G's. I want to do some troubleshooting. Am I right that pins 3 on both 6l6G's connects to the power transformer with 9.6 volts? If so, between what two points would I check for the 9.6 volts? Since the quick start relay seems to have more than ample oomph to activate (I have to REALLY pull forcefully to pull the relay plate away with my finger). You also said that when activated, the relay switches to the 6.3 volt winding of the transformer.
If that is the case, could the culprit be that the 6L6G's are going bad and may not be pulling the correct amount of current to activate the quick start relay? Any ideas that you have to check the voltages on the 6L6G's (voltages at the specific pin locations to check voltages) and, if necessary, how to verify proper activation of the quick start relay (including how to check voltages) would be very much appreciated.
Thanks again,
Glenn
Glenn1100 Glenn, pin 3 of the 6L6's goes to the output transformer primary winding and carries the 400+ volts to the tube plates. Be very careful with this high voltage. The current that activates the quick-start relay comes from pin 8 (the cathode) of each tube. As tubes age, their plate current gradually decreases until the volume and power they produce becomes deficient. Your tubes have probably aged to the point that their cathode and plate current are insufficient to activate the relay. They should probably be replaced with new tubes (Antique Electronic Supply is a good source). Measuring plate current is a slightly tricky and hazardous procedure, but it's part of the tube biasing procedure covered in my video about biasing double-ended amplifiers. This measurement is not really necessary if you are simply going to replace the old tubes. Good luck.
Uncle Doug
Doug, thanks for the quick reply, the word of caution on the high voltage pin 3, and a source for purchasing new 6L6's.
I will definitely replace the two 6L6's to eliminate that component's possible weak link from the equation. Thinking ahead, if I still have problems with the quick-start relay, what is the typical resistance I can expect across the relay's two leads if I de-solder and isolate the relay? If a short in the relay coil exists, can I check current draw by de-soldering one lead of the relay and placing my meter in series on that lead? And what kind of reading can I expect to see on my meter? Finally, if I need to find a replacement relay, do you have a source? I appreciate your patience with all my questions.
Glenn, if the relay can hold after you help it close, then it is, more than likely, just fine. The problem is the weak current flow through the coil. The coil resistance is quite hard to read on the Wurlitzer schematic, but I believe it is 130 ohms. I don't know the current off hand. The only replacement source I can think of is: www.jukebox-parts.com/ Good luck.
Uncle Doug
Doug, I appreciate your patience with all my questions. I have one final question as I have been researching the 6L6GC's. Purchasing "matched" tubes appear to be the way to go when checking mutual conductance, shorts, leaks, "life tests" for current reductions. Maybe this is not so important for the start relay portion of the amplifier. Antique Electronic Supply has many tubes listed under 6L6GC, such as 6L6GC-M-STR, Ruby Tubes, 6L6 CHP Groove Tubes Black Plate Matched Pair, etc, etc.... I would REALLY appreciate it if you have a recommendation of what matched pair would be a good choice for my Wurlitzer 1100.
The JJ matched pair #004732 at $36.40 would probably do just fine. The "matching" simply indicates that they will have very similar plate current, and this will bias similarly with a single bias resistor, as in your circuit.
Uncle Doug. I wonder why they
Never made a guitar amp? I remember sliding nickels in one to hear 60s country and rockabilly. Or did they produce one?
+357bullfrog I believe that Wurlitzer made some radios, 357, but to the best of my knowledge they never made any guitar amps. It's a shame, because all they needed to add was a 1/4" input jack and a built-in volume control.
Great videos! I’ve had a 1015 for almost 40 years and never completely understood how it worked until now. I am presently working on redoing gate wiring etc. Probably ran into you at the Chicago shows. Thanks for the videos! Are you available for consultation over the phone?
Thanks, Jerry. I did go to the Chicago Show several times. You're welcome. No, I avoid the phone like the plague.....it interferes with my daily routine.
You have usually been good about answering my comments and questions. I have a very important one. I am determined to find a 45 record changer similar to the record changers in jukeboxes, but as a free standing unit. I thought I remembered seeing one made by Wurlitzer but I am not sure who made it. Do you know of a 45 record rack changer? The RCA 45 record changer turntable is not what I'm looking for...
Both Seeburg and Wurlitzer made free-standing record changing units for locations that didn't have room for a jukebox. The changer unit could be hidden in a broom closet, with remote selectors at each booth and remote wall speakers. The Seeburg "Library" unit played both sides of 100 different 45 RPM records, and is much more compact than the Wurlitzer unit that only played one side of 24 78-RPM records. Here is a link to info on the Seeburg Library Unit: www.seeburgremote.net/library_unit.shtml
Hang on a minute... can we split hairs about what a relay vs. a solenoid is? I think a solenoid does something mechanical using an electromagnet, and a relay does something to connect electrical current rather than the mechanical operation that a solenoid would do, is that right?
Yes, I think you're on the right track. A relay generally uses a small amount of current to energize an electromagnet and close a switch that permits a large amount of current to flow. A good example would be a horn or starter relay in a car......and the quick-start relay in the Wurlitzer amp.
And can you imagine the sound. Wouldve been nice
+357bullfrog Yes, indeed. With a 15" electrodynamic speaker it would have been a good, stout guitar or bass amp with plenty of power and bass response.
What would this amp be like if you turned it into a guitar amplifier
Do you do repairs on 1015s ???
It's not practical, Ari, since the two-way freight would be exorbitant. My advice would be to get a service manual from Victory Glass Co. and do the repairs and adjustments yourself. Good luck.
why didn't they just use instant on technology with the tubes always having a slight current like they did in the 70s?
+HomoSex is Not Gods Best 4U I guess they felt it was preferable to only have the tubes energized when the unit was playing.
I ask because there are 2 in decent to good condition at a local antique mall for $75 each.
If all the original tubes are present, this would be a fair price.....but I would still offer less ;)
or in the case of my father who had a key so that the family couldn't turn the music up too loud
+HomoSex is Not Gods Best 4U Jukeboxes have a volume key for that reason.
NIAGARA FALLS! Slowly, I turned...
I wish Uncle Doug could do trouble shooting videos
My channel is dedicated to vintage tube amps, Alex. Surely there are lots of jukebox-specific videos out there in TH-cam Land.
baby boomer coupling. yes.
mabye a clone? looks pretty simple . but that amp has the original components.
Jukes are for dukes.