My grandparents used to have one of these. My grandpa bought two in the late 70s from a guy who had a barn full of them in Nebraska. Both weren't functional but mad one working one out of them both. The mechanics in these things are fascinating
I was asked to make a software jukebox but I am too young to know how it works. This video is exactly what I was looking for. Great content, thank you!
Incredibly detailed description of the overall operation. Thank you for making these videos. This helped me make an informed buying decision on my 1015 project, I now know what to look out for without the unit being operational. Can't wait to start the restoration.
This is great and helps me understand the unit a little better. I’m picking up a restoration project 1015 this week and will see if I can get the thing back to its former glory!
Hi UD, this is UB here. B is for Bill. There are a couple of different things I'd like to see, if you don't have them up here in the huge list of videos you have created. I told you about liking your teaching methods and now I know why. You are a math teacher. And I like the shout out for the ever desired beaver shot but you failed to mention the down blouse shot. :) Now, to what I'd like to see 1) how to create workable test instruments b/c of budget constraints, a variac would seem to be the easiest yet most helpful. (BTW, loved seeing the Simpson 260) 2) balancing the power transformer for multiple speakers, ie. 2, 4, 6, and 8. I was thinking an oscilloscope would be something impossible to own and maybe it is in a DIY version. I was thinking that a simple circuit connected to an old school CRT computer monitor could be doable. Simple may not be correct in that regard but a circuit not requiring expensive parts. I saw another person's video on a DIY variac that he called a scariac and I see why. I will tell you there is water involved and I do not want water or any other drink on my bench that does not have a screw on cap. Help!!
Greetings, UB. I do recall the down-the-blouse shot.....often occurring after the old drop-the-pencil-so-they'll-bend-over-to-pick-it-up move. Regarding Variacs and Oscilloscopes, just save your money and buy one on Ebay. They are routinely available at very reasonable prices, and you'll be way better off in the long run
I love Wurlitzer jukeboxes, but they are actually over-engineered (in my opinion). Rock-ola, a competitor, produced much simpler and generally more reliable jukeboxes. Nothing can match Wurlitzer's external design, however.
In most cases, if you learn how the magician's magic is done you lose interest... This isn't one of those cases. Thanks for the video, and may the magic continue.
I really enjoyed your videos. I have a 1015 and the information is great. I have a question. Mine keeps on playing the same song over and over. What may be wrong. Any suggestions.
Thanks, William. Apparently it's not cancelling the selection just before it is played. A rotating arm at the rear of the circular selector coil bank is stopped by a pin that springs out rearward when you select the record associated with that pin. Just before the record is swung out for playing, the rotating arm (stopped by the pin) moves toward the front of the jukebox and pushes the pin back into the circular coil bank, cancelling it. Get a mirror and watch to see what part of this cycle is not occurring.
Doug, Thanks, however, didn't see any arm pushing the pin back in. After it played the song five times, I pushed all the pins back in. The playing stopped, but regardless which buttons (five) are pushed the same song play again which was not pushed.
Does the selector cam (big, heart-shaped wheel) on the rear of the mechanism rotate and send the selector finger up and down the rear of the stack before each play? If not, then the selector mechanism is jammed (for any number of reasons) and must be repaired and lubricated. How to do this must be determined by close, on-site analysis to determine and eliminate the cause(s).
Hello Doug. Really enjoyed the 1100 video. I have one with an intermittent problem - the turn table comes up and then drops down on the way up and then completes going up to get it to play position. Sometimes the turn table stops just short of the play position and I have to pull the shaft down about 1-2 inches and release it and it goes up to the play position. Is something slipping? Is this common from lack of play? Is there any adjustment? Thank you.
Pete Jagodzinski Pete, the best way to approach problems like this is to get a good drop light and watch the mechanism as it operates. You should be able to see the cause of the turntable lifting problems. There is a cam and an arm that lift it, as well as strong springs to assist with the lift. Watch it closely and I think you'll see what's wrong. Good luck.
Uncle Doug Thank you very much. I will do that. I should mention this jukebox does not get played very often and when I do it performs well after 3-4 records if I wipe down the shaft with a light oil. What kind of lubricant do you think is best - silicon spray on a cloth and then wipe or regular oil? If oil, what weight oil would you suggest? Thanks again Uncle Doug!
I would recommend some sort of light machine oil, like 3-in-1 Oil, or even 10/20W motor oil. If you use anything much thicker, you run the risk of having the turntable stay up after the end of a record, which snags the record ring and may damage the big fiber drive gear......i.e. a disaster of biblical proportions.
Sir... you posted this video over 10 years ago and it is still as useful today as it was to so many then. As I find myself trying to resurrect a long dormant 1015 now, these are invaluable. Are you willing to assist me further? When your video gets to 7:12, my current box fails to function as the central cam does not activate the arm to search for the selected pin. Thus the entire selection and play sequence ends as the motor is activated but nothing further results. Any thoughts you would be willing to share?
I'm glad the video is helpful, Marty. Trying to explain all the details of how the mechanism functions is way beyond the scope of this page. I suggest that you buy a 1015 Service Manual (on Ebay?) and study the verbal explanations and diagrams. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. I have the service manual and it covers the sequencing events as expected. However, there is no mention of the clutch mechanism which redirects the main cam from the "pin search" arm to the "find and load" the record gears. I just thought you might have dealt with that in the theory of operations procedures. Again, thanks for the response and I apologize for taking your time.
Hello Uncle Doug, I see this video and thanks a lot for this one. I have an issue with my 1015 recently restored. The selection function properly and the motor is activate and the turntable rise Up and return immediately in the bottom position and the switch cut the motor.If i select an other button, the same issue come again. Any idea on this issue? With my best regards.
Greetings, Fred. It's very hard to describe these things verbally, but I will try. When the turntable lift arm rises to its highest (playing) position, a curved knife blade forces the lifting mechanism to disengage, leaving the turntable in the "up" position. Your mechanism doesn't do this. The knife is on a shaft that is suspended between two adjustment screws (at the right front and back left of the mechanism). Check the adjustment of these screws and whether the knife blade is free to move up and down. The screws have lock nuts that must be loosened before you can make any adjustments. I hope this helps. Good luck !!!
Uncle Doug, I have a complicated question problem. A while back, whenever I made a selection, the make selection light would have a brilliant flash that burned out the bulbs. I was able to avoid the burning out process by installing 7.5 volt bulbs, but in doing so, the machine converted itself to free play instead of the coin driven mode, with the "make selection" light remaining on continuously and the the same bright flash for a moment when making a selection and then returning to the normal brightness. Last week, the 1015 worked fine but today after changing some records, pushing a selector button, doesn't matter which one, nothing happens. I can live with the "free play" mode with the higher voltage bulbs but I want the box to start playing again. Thanks for any advice. Tony Palmer Durango
Tony p Greetings, Tony. I haven't worked on jukeboxes for a while, but as I recall, there is a 24V transformer in the Junction Box for the selector system. There is also a large resistor that steps the voltage down to 6V for the Make Selection lights. Perhaps there is a short or the resistor is faulty and much higher voltage is being sent to the MS lights. This situation probably resulted in a blown fuse, probably in the Junction Box, that prevents the jukebox from operating.
Uncle Doug Thanks for your prompt reply. I will check out the Junction Box. Another thought - When playing the box last week, I opened the cabinet and speaker doors to show the insides to my guests. Could doing this have torqued the old cable going from the selector buttons to the junction box and broken some wires? Will have time this weekend to check out things. Again thanks, Tony
My coin grinder keeps running after accepting a coin. It didn’t do that before. Is something not making the noise stop after it accepts the coin. Thank you
You'll have to remove the grinder covers to see what the problem is, Rudi. Perhaps the switch that turns the grinder motor on when a coin is inserted is sticking in the "on" position.
Question 1015 seletor drum . the mechanical movements are good now I can pop a seletor drum pin by hand and it will complete a cycle and cancel/shutdown just fine -BUt when i load a coin the selector light comes on , I push a button , I can see the relays move in the power juntion box but the selector drum pin does net come out.
You might check the contacts in the big Jones plug that connects the selector drum with the junction box.....that's how the selection signal gets to the selector drum.
In the early models, there were three different slug rejectors, one for each coin denomination, and three different inlets were necessary. With the later 3-in-1 coin rejectors, you're right......no matter which slot you use to enter a coin, they all end up going into the same slug rejector, where they are sorted out (again) and then sent on to the coin grinder, where each coin activated a different set of credit switches, which can be set by the operator. One play for a nickle, one play for a dime, 5 plays for a quarter, 3 plays for a quarter, etc.
Sadly, at my age, most places only had microprocessor controlled jukeboxes, which were being replaced by CD jukeboxes. Seeing how the Wurlitzer 1015 & other electromechanical jukeboxes, I'm under the impression that: 1) they do not play the songs in the order that they are selected, and 2) if 2 different customers pay and select the same song, that song only gets played once and the second customer basically wasted their nickel. Am I correct, or is there something I'm missing, thst tracks the order of songs selected and/or how many times a song is selected?
You're right, Russell. If multiple songs are selected, they will be played in the order they are in the record stack, not the order selected.....which is typical of virtually all vintage jukeboxes. If two people select the same song before it is played, it will only play once. But the extra coin credit will result in a random song being selected. There has to be one song played for every coin credit.
Hi Doug, I recently asked you some other questions on my Wurlitzer 1100. My question now relates to the selector drum. Most of the selection keys work like a charm to play my records. But 5 or 6 selector keys on my 1100 do not activate the process for selecting a record. I would like to troubleshoot this. Can you tell me where to pinpoint the problem? I am assuming that I must check for voltage at each selector coil to see if I am at least getting the offending coils activated, but I am not sure how best to do this. Any suggestions on the proper troubleshooting procedure would be much appreciated :)
Glenn1100 It's probably a problem with good electrical contact within the sliding switches and through the contacts that rotate with the drum. They should be cleaned carefully.
Uncle Doug I removed the switching assembly out of the Encore Selector. I carefully took apart the slider switch assembly that Wurlitzer never intended fellow restorers to take apart. You are right. THE SWITCHES ARE REALLY GUMMY AND TARNISHED! I will be cleaning them with 98% rubbing alcohol, then burnishing the contacts with crocus cloth. The selection button return springs have a light dusting of rust, so I will use Rust Mort to neutralize it.
Uncle Doug, Appreciate if you are still answering questions. I can't seem to be able to remove all the record trays. The shaft assembly (45233), which appears to hold all in place, will not move move. Can you help? Thanks.
Sandy Joseph Sandy, you need to remove the top nut, popularity meter, tray cap (big cast tray that covers them all), 24 tray return springs, tray swing-out arm, etc. so that all you have left are the aluminum record rings and shaft assembly. Then lift each tray upward off of the shaft assembly. Pay attention to the order of the bronze-colored washers and spacers that also slide down the shaft assembly.
Uncle Doug I did everything but the small steel ring washer, with the large copper washer under it, will not move. If I took channel locks to the steel washer it would be damaged. I tried to pry the copper washer with a screwdriver but nothing will move. Do I just use the channel locks and replace the small steel washer? I did a restoration 40 years ago!
I have a very simple question about tripping manually a selector coil pin. Is there a chance I could ask you about it by private message…or better yet a phone call??
@@UncleDougif I can ask it here on this forum I’d be fine with that. The selector coils on the selector wheel on my Wurlitzer 1015. I know the little rods (or pins) have to be released to allow the selector arm to stop at that point to in turn position the star wheel on the back of the mechanism to pick the proper tray out of the stack. One of mine has been a little stuck from lack of use….#13. I want to trip the little tab that releases the Rod to it’s elongated position manually….so I can repeatedly work the pins in and out to loosen them up a bit. I can see the little tabs attached to the springs on the back of the wheel and coils. But not sure exactly how I’m supposed to trigger them to release the rod. I’ve tried myself to push the tabs one way or the other and they don’t seem to want to move. Can you show either a diagram or a short video on how to do that? If the on/off toggle switches on the back of the junction box are OFF…..which is when I’ve tried to move the tabs…..or should the jukebox be completely unplugged from the wall? Not sure why the tabs won’t move manually. All the other coils work consistently when the selection buttons are pushed. Thank you.😊
Your explanation of the process is well stated. I will try to respond in kind. Each selection pin has a matching coil that, when energized, will attract the retention arm holding the pin in place, releasing the pin to jump outward. You should be able to push each retention arm toward its coil to mechanically release its pin. If there is a selection pin which you cannot manually release, then perhaps it is seized in place. Note that the pins, once released, can also be manually pushed back into neutral position, held by their respective retention arms, which click into place when the pin is pushed in. @@crescenthillstudios
@@UncleDoug I hope might be a bit more clear with the following questions. If the jukebox is plugged in to the wall but the toggle switches are OFF….is there any reason that those retention arms will be electrically locked in place….which would prevent me from moving them manually? I would think they should move freely when pushed upon. On any given coil…Do I push the retention arm inward toward the center (of the selector wheel)…..or outward away from the center of the selector wheel? I know the reason to push the retention arm is the disengage the arm from a little groove on each pin….. and that the pin should be able to be reset by simply pushing it back into place until it clicks into the little groove of the pin. That’s my purpose is to manually free up the movement of the pin on # 13 selector coil. Sorry to be so cautious in my questions.😏
This type of confusion is why I really hate trying to verbalize jukebox repairs. There is an excellent service manual for the 1015 that shows detailed diagrams of every subunit. The pins can be released manually without any electrical supply to the jukebox. They are never locked in place electrically. If you are able to manually release every pin except #13 then there must be something wrong with that particular pin unit. Remove the selector coil unit and fix the problem. Good luck.@@crescenthillstudios
m vermillion Long distance troubleshooting is quite difficult, MV. I will try to answer basic questions, but more difficult problems would be better served by purchasing a 1015 service manual from Victory Glass Co. in Des Moines, IA.
Uncle Doug Thanks for the reply. I have a manual for the machine and have been studying it intensely. My problem is only a few push buttons will activate a play. When a button is pushed I hear a mechanical noise out of the grinder but the wobble plate does not pull back. What activates the plate to go back?
The slide switches behind the push buttons are probably tarnished or dirty. You need to clean all the contact surfaces so that the pins in the selector drum (connected to "wobble plate") can be electromagnetically activated. When a pin is released, it pulls the wobble plate inward and closes the switch (mounted on front of selector drum) to initiate the play cycle.
I generally find that the contacts can be cleaned while the slide switches are still in place on the front door. Use good lighting and some very, very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper or crocus cloth.
My grandparents used to have one of these. My grandpa bought two in the late 70s from a guy who had a barn full of them in Nebraska. Both weren't functional but mad one working one out of them both. The mechanics in these things are fascinating
+lilpistol1116 Thanks for the input, LP :)
I was asked to make a software jukebox but I am too young to know how it works. This video is exactly what I was looking for. Great content, thank you!
That's great to hear, Marcello. Best of luck with your project.
Thanks, Tim. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Incredibly detailed description of the overall operation. Thank you for making these videos. This helped me make an informed buying decision on my 1015 project, I now know what to look out for without the unit being operational. Can't wait to start the restoration.
You're welcome, Stefan. Best of luck with the restoration project.
This is great and helps me understand the unit a little better. I’m picking up a restoration project 1015 this week and will see if I can get the thing back to its former glory!
Good luck with your new project, Martyn.
very well narrated ,l good and easy to understand .. Keep up the good work ..
i am glued man love it
Thanks, Ed.
Hi UD, this is UB here. B is for Bill. There are a couple of different things I'd like to see, if you don't have them up here in the huge list of videos you have created. I told you about liking your teaching methods and now I know why. You are a math teacher. And I like the shout out for the ever desired beaver shot but you failed to mention the down blouse shot. :) Now, to what I'd like to see 1) how to create workable test instruments b/c of budget constraints, a variac would seem to be the easiest yet most helpful. (BTW, loved seeing the Simpson 260) 2) balancing the power transformer for multiple speakers, ie. 2, 4, 6, and 8. I was thinking an oscilloscope would be something impossible to own and maybe it is in a DIY version. I was thinking that a simple circuit connected to an old school CRT computer monitor could be doable. Simple may not be correct in that regard but a circuit not requiring expensive parts. I saw another person's video on a DIY variac that he called a scariac and I see why. I will tell you there is water involved and I do not want water or any other drink on my bench that does not have a screw on cap. Help!!
Greetings, UB. I do recall the down-the-blouse shot.....often occurring after the old drop-the-pencil-so-they'll-bend-over-to-pick-it-up move. Regarding Variacs and Oscilloscopes, just save your money and buy one on Ebay. They are routinely available at very reasonable prices, and you'll be way better off in the long run
@@UncleDoug Thank you
Very interesting! I had no idea how complex they were/are.
I love Wurlitzer jukeboxes, but they are actually over-engineered (in my opinion). Rock-ola, a competitor, produced much simpler and generally more reliable jukeboxes. Nothing can match Wurlitzer's external design, however.
Interesting !
In most cases, if you learn how the magician's magic is done you lose interest... This isn't one of those cases. Thanks for the video, and may the magic continue.
Thanks so much, MK. It's nice that your view "behind the Wizard's curtain" didn't alter your appreciation for the process :)
nice!!!
Thanks, Macario :)
Wonderful explanation! Do you show somewhere also how to take the coin selector into operation? Mine is set somehow to infinite songchoice
I never went into detail about the coin system, Andreas, but I'll bet there are internet sites and videos that do.
I really enjoyed your videos. I have a 1015 and the information is great. I have a question. Mine keeps on playing the same song over and over. What may be wrong. Any suggestions.
Thanks, William. Apparently it's not cancelling the selection just before it is played. A rotating arm at the rear of the circular selector coil bank is stopped by a pin that springs out rearward when you select the record associated with that pin. Just before the record is swung out for playing, the rotating arm (stopped by the pin) moves toward the front of the jukebox and pushes the pin back into the circular coil bank, cancelling it. Get a mirror and watch to see what part of this cycle is not occurring.
its funny to see the old school lighting and awsom to see how it changes color its so easy
+ljmike1204 Glad you liked it, Mike.
Doug, Thanks, however, didn't see any arm pushing the pin back in. After it played the song five times, I pushed all the pins back in. The playing stopped, but regardless which buttons (five) are pushed the same song play again which was not pushed.
Does the selector cam (big, heart-shaped wheel) on the rear of the mechanism rotate and send the selector finger up and down the rear of the stack before each play? If not, then the selector mechanism is jammed (for any number of reasons) and must be repaired and lubricated. How to do this must be determined by close, on-site analysis to determine and eliminate the cause(s).
Hello Doug. Really enjoyed the 1100 video. I have one with an intermittent problem - the turn table comes up and then drops down on the way up and then completes going up to get it to play position. Sometimes the turn table stops just short of the play position and I have to pull the shaft down about 1-2 inches and release it and it goes up to the play position. Is something slipping? Is this common from lack of play? Is there any adjustment? Thank you.
Pete Jagodzinski Pete, the best way to approach problems like this is to get a good drop light and watch the mechanism as it operates. You should be able to see the cause of the turntable lifting problems. There is a cam and an arm that lift it, as well as strong springs to assist with the lift. Watch it closely and I think you'll see what's wrong. Good luck.
Uncle Doug Thank you very much. I will do that. I should mention this jukebox does not get played very often and when I do it performs well after 3-4 records if I wipe down the shaft with a light oil. What kind of lubricant do you think is best - silicon spray on a cloth and then wipe or regular oil? If oil, what weight oil would you suggest? Thanks again Uncle Doug!
I would recommend some sort of light machine oil, like 3-in-1 Oil, or even 10/20W motor oil. If you use anything much thicker, you run the risk of having the turntable stay up after the end of a record, which snags the record ring and may damage the big fiber drive gear......i.e. a disaster of biblical proportions.
Sir... you posted this video over 10 years ago and it is still as useful today as it was to so many then. As I find myself trying to resurrect a long dormant 1015 now, these are invaluable. Are you willing to assist me further? When your video gets to 7:12, my current box fails to function as the central cam does not activate the arm to search for the selected pin. Thus the entire selection and play sequence ends as the motor is activated but nothing further results. Any thoughts you would be willing to share?
I'm glad the video is helpful, Marty. Trying to explain all the details of how the mechanism functions is way beyond the scope of this page. I suggest that you buy a 1015 Service Manual (on Ebay?) and study the verbal explanations and diagrams. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. I have the service manual and it covers the sequencing events as expected. However, there is no mention of the clutch mechanism which redirects the main cam from the "pin search" arm to the "find and load" the record gears. I just thought you might have dealt with that in the theory of operations procedures. Again, thanks for the response and I apologize for taking your time.
No problem, Marty. Good luck with your repairs.@@martysherri7745
wow so good uncle dog love this jukebox how did you learn to fix them
ian forster Thanks, Ian. Like all complicated pursuits, it took time, dedication, study, and experience gained by trial and error.
yup me to i noted your friends with ElPaso TubeAmps i too love his video
Yes, David is a good friend and very competent engineer.
he is great watch his videos now
Hello Uncle Doug,
I see this video and thanks a lot for this one.
I have an issue with my 1015 recently restored.
The selection function properly and the motor is activate and the turntable rise Up and return immediately in the bottom position and the switch cut the motor.If i select an other button, the same issue come again.
Any idea on this issue?
With my best regards.
Greetings, Fred. It's very hard to describe these things verbally, but I will try. When the turntable lift arm rises to its highest (playing) position, a curved knife blade forces the lifting mechanism to disengage, leaving the turntable in the "up" position. Your mechanism doesn't do this. The knife is on a shaft that is suspended between two adjustment screws (at the right front and back left of the mechanism). Check the adjustment of these screws and whether the knife blade is free to move up and down. The screws have lock nuts that must be loosened before you can make any adjustments. I hope this helps. Good luck !!!
Uncle Doug Thanks a lot for your help.All it's perfect right now.
With my best regards.
That's great news, Fred. Congratulations on your successful repair job.
Uncle Doug,
I have a complicated question problem. A while back, whenever I made a selection, the make selection light would have a brilliant flash that burned out the bulbs. I was able to avoid the burning out process by installing 7.5 volt bulbs, but in doing so, the machine converted itself to free play instead of the coin driven mode, with the "make selection" light remaining on continuously and the the same bright flash for a moment when making a selection and then returning to the normal brightness.
Last week, the 1015 worked fine but today after changing some records, pushing a selector button, doesn't matter which one, nothing happens. I can live with the "free play" mode with the higher voltage bulbs but I want the box to start playing again.
Thanks for any advice.
Tony Palmer
Durango
Tony p Greetings, Tony. I haven't worked on jukeboxes for a while, but as I recall, there is a 24V transformer in the Junction Box for the selector system. There is also a large resistor that steps the voltage down to 6V for the Make Selection lights. Perhaps there is a short or the resistor is faulty and much higher voltage is being sent to the MS lights. This situation probably resulted in a blown fuse, probably in the Junction Box, that prevents the jukebox from operating.
Uncle Doug Thanks for your prompt reply. I will check out the Junction Box. Another thought - When playing the box last week, I opened the cabinet and speaker doors to show the insides to my guests. Could doing this have torqued the old cable going from the selector buttons to the junction box and broken some wires? Will have time this weekend to check out things.
Again thanks,
Tony
I doubt that opening and closing the door would break any wires, Tony. Check out the resistor and fuse.....hopefully that will solve the problem.
My coin grinder keeps running after accepting a coin. It didn’t do that before. Is something not making the noise stop after it accepts the coin. Thank you
You'll have to remove the grinder covers to see what the problem is, Rudi. Perhaps the switch that turns the grinder motor on when a coin is inserted is sticking in the "on" position.
Question 1015 seletor drum . the mechanical movements are good now I can pop a seletor drum pin by hand and it will complete a cycle and cancel/shutdown just fine -BUt when i load a coin the selector light comes on , I push a button , I can see the relays move in the power juntion box but the selector drum pin does net come out.
You might check the contacts in the big Jones plug that connects the selector drum with the junction box.....that's how the selection signal gets to the selector drum.
Thaks for the help and the excellent videos.
You're welcome, Bill.
Interesting that there are three separate coin slots that go to the same place!
In the early models, there were three different slug rejectors, one for each coin denomination, and three different inlets were necessary. With the later 3-in-1 coin rejectors, you're right......no matter which slot you use to enter a coin, they all end up going into the same slug rejector, where they are sorted out (again) and then sent on to the coin grinder, where each coin activated a different set of credit switches, which can be set by the operator. One play for a nickle, one play for a dime, 5 plays for a quarter, 3 plays for a quarter, etc.
Sadly, at my age, most places only had microprocessor controlled jukeboxes, which were being replaced by CD jukeboxes. Seeing how the Wurlitzer 1015 & other electromechanical jukeboxes, I'm under the impression that: 1) they do not play the songs in the order that they are selected, and 2) if 2 different customers pay and select the same song, that song only gets played once and the second customer basically wasted their nickel. Am I correct, or is there something I'm missing, thst tracks the order of songs selected and/or how many times a song is selected?
You're right, Russell. If multiple songs are selected, they will be played in the order they are in the record stack, not the order selected.....which is typical of virtually all vintage jukeboxes. If two people select the same song before it is played, it will only play once. But the extra coin credit will result in a random song being selected. There has to be one song played for every coin credit.
Interesting - thanks for clearing that up! :-)
Hi Doug, I recently asked you some other questions on my Wurlitzer 1100. My question now relates to the selector drum. Most of the selection keys work like a charm to play my records. But 5 or 6 selector keys on my 1100 do not activate the process for selecting a record. I would like to troubleshoot this. Can you tell me where to pinpoint the problem? I am assuming that I must check for voltage at each selector coil to see if I am at least getting the offending coils activated, but I am not sure how best to do this. Any suggestions on the proper troubleshooting procedure would be much appreciated :)
Glenn1100 It's probably a problem with good electrical contact within the sliding switches and through the contacts that rotate with the drum. They should be cleaned carefully.
Ok, I'll tear into that portion of the unit next. Thanks so much :) Glenn
The contacts tend to tarnish over time and lose the ability to make good contact. You can burnish them lightly with 1000-grit wet or dry sandpaper.
Uncle Doug
I removed the switching assembly out of the Encore Selector. I carefully took apart the slider switch assembly that Wurlitzer never intended fellow restorers to take apart. You are right. THE SWITCHES ARE REALLY GUMMY AND TARNISHED! I will be cleaning them with 98% rubbing alcohol, then burnishing the contacts with crocus cloth. The selection button return springs have a light dusting of rust, so I will use Rust Mort to neutralize it.
Sounds good, Glenn. I hope it solves the problem.
Magnificent,,, they were clever engineers those Germans,,,
Indeed. They are gifted in that area for sure..
Uncle Doug, Appreciate if you are still answering questions. I can't seem to be able to remove all the record trays. The shaft assembly (45233), which appears to hold all in place, will not move move. Can you help? Thanks.
Sandy Joseph Sandy, you need to remove the top nut, popularity meter, tray cap (big cast tray that covers them all), 24 tray return springs, tray swing-out arm, etc. so that all you have left are the aluminum record rings and shaft assembly. Then lift each tray upward off of the shaft assembly. Pay attention to the order of the bronze-colored washers and spacers that also slide down the shaft assembly.
Uncle Doug I did everything but the small steel ring washer, with the large copper washer under it, will not move. If I took channel locks to the steel washer it would be damaged. I tried to pry the copper washer with a screwdriver but nothing will move. Do I just use the channel locks and replace the small steel washer? I did a restoration 40 years ago!
Sandy Joseph
Sandy Joseph Got it! I used Channellocks with a rag and the top washer came lose and the rest followed. Many thanks.
You're welcome, Sandy. Best of luck :)
I have a very simple question about tripping manually a selector coil pin. Is there a chance I could ask you about it by private message…or better yet a phone call??
You can message me on my FB page: Uncle Doug's Vintage Amps.
@@UncleDougif I can ask it here on this forum I’d be fine with that.
The selector coils on the selector wheel on my Wurlitzer 1015.
I know the little rods (or pins) have to be released to allow the selector arm to stop at that point to in turn position the star wheel on the back of the mechanism to pick the proper tray out of the stack.
One of mine has been a little stuck from lack of use….#13.
I want to trip the little tab that releases the Rod to it’s elongated position manually….so I can repeatedly work the pins in and out to loosen them up a bit.
I can see the little tabs attached to the springs on the back of the wheel and coils. But not sure exactly how I’m supposed to trigger them to release the rod.
I’ve tried myself to push the tabs one way or the other and they don’t seem to want to move.
Can you show either a diagram or a short video on how to do that?
If the on/off toggle switches on the back of the junction box are OFF…..which is when I’ve tried to move the tabs…..or should the jukebox be completely unplugged from the wall?
Not sure why the tabs won’t move manually.
All the other coils work consistently when the selection buttons are pushed.
Thank you.😊
Your explanation of the process is well stated. I will try to respond in kind. Each selection pin has a matching coil that, when energized, will attract the retention arm holding the pin in place, releasing the pin to jump outward. You should be able to push each retention arm toward its coil to mechanically release its pin. If there is a selection pin which you cannot manually release, then perhaps it is seized in place. Note that the pins, once released, can also be manually pushed back into neutral position, held by their respective retention arms, which click into place when the pin is pushed in. @@crescenthillstudios
@@UncleDoug I hope might be a bit more clear with the following questions.
If the jukebox is plugged in to the wall but the toggle switches are OFF….is there any reason that those retention arms will be electrically locked in place….which would prevent me from moving them manually?
I would think they should move freely when pushed upon.
On any given coil…Do I push the retention arm inward toward the center (of the selector wheel)…..or outward away from the center of the selector wheel?
I know the reason to push the retention arm is the disengage the arm from a little groove on each pin….. and that the pin should be able to be reset by simply pushing it back into place until it clicks into the little groove of the pin.
That’s my purpose is to manually free up the movement of the pin on # 13 selector coil.
Sorry to be so cautious in my questions.😏
This type of confusion is why I really hate trying to verbalize jukebox repairs. There is an excellent service manual for the 1015 that shows detailed diagrams of every subunit. The pins can be released manually without any electrical supply to the jukebox. They are never locked in place electrically. If you are able to manually release every pin except #13 then there must be something wrong with that particular pin unit. Remove the selector coil unit and fix the problem. Good luck.@@crescenthillstudios
Uncle Doug
Are you still available for 1015 questions?
m vermillion Long distance troubleshooting is quite difficult, MV. I will try to answer basic questions, but more difficult problems would be better served by purchasing a 1015 service manual from Victory Glass Co. in Des Moines, IA.
Uncle Doug Thanks for the reply. I have a manual for the machine and have been studying it intensely. My problem is only a few push buttons will activate a play. When a button is pushed I hear a mechanical noise out of the grinder but the wobble plate does not pull back. What activates the plate to go back?
The slide switches behind the push buttons are probably tarnished or dirty. You need to clean all the contact surfaces so that the pins in the selector drum (connected to "wobble plate") can be electromagnetically activated. When a pin is released, it pulls the wobble plate inward and closes the switch (mounted on front of selector drum) to initiate the play cycle.
Uncle Doug Thanks I will give it a go. It seems to me the best way to do this would be to remove the entire button array as a unit. Your thoughts?
I generally find that the contacts can be cleaned while the slide switches are still in place on the front door. Use good lighting and some very, very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper or crocus cloth.
an early form of robotics
I guess that would be true, CF.