Three things are important: 1. Resolution, 2. thermal sensitivity (ability to discern smaller differences in temperature NETD: the smaller the better. For instance Hikmicro Falcon FQ series has
I've used a thermal camera for around a year and found it very useful. I did a LOT of research before buying and in the end settled on a Pulsar monocular model. It wasn't the cheapest by a long way but I think I chose the best compromise between quality, functionality and price for my purposes. As others have mentioned, resolution, lens/field of view and thermal sensitivity are three key parameters - and I'd advise against going for the narrowest field of view or the widest. Too narrow and you're limiting yourself and will end up swinging it around all the time to scan a wider area, too wide and your targets may appear too small in the viewfinder. I find the thermal camera particularly useful when I'm working in a hide, which surprised me. I use it during those long hours when nothing is happening to find potential targets that might show themselves well enough for a photograph. It's amazing what is around you sometimes - you just can't see or hear it! Two pitfalls I've come across... First, thermal cameras can temporarily wreck your night vision. You won't be able to see properly in dark or low light conditions for a minute or so after taking it from your eye, so if you're doing low light photography work it can get in the way. Second, it's an extra bit of kit to carry around. I know it's small and not heavy, but I f found the thermal surprisingly awkward to add to my carry-around gear. I carry a lot, including a 600mm f4 prime, and I couldn't seem to find a comfortable position to carry the thermal where it would always be quickly and easily accessible when I needed it. In the end, I bought the Pulsar neck strap - which turned into a disaster for me because the connection to my camera came apart and the camera hit a rock on the ground when it fell. No damage to the unit, thankfully, but if it had gone down lens first it would have been an expensive mistake. I'm still going to use the neck strap but I will stitch it to the unit so it's permanently on. Overall though, thermal cameras are a great tool for finding wildlife. They take a bit of getting used to and work better in some conditions than others, but once you get used to using them they're worth it. Good luck and thanks for the video.
I wonder if it's easily possible to rig a Ti up so that it's more or less co-axially mounted with a camera. Must be possible. Just need someone to do it 😂
This was a very interesting program, Mike. Brings back memories of 1968 north of Hue just after the Tet offensive. I took a few guys (about 9 to 12) hunting every night. We had a couple of starlight scopes that we only used to see if our position was being approached. One week I took my starlight scope, which had a magnification of 4x, and mounted it on my rifle. Once I had it zeroed in it was dead on at 150 meters. The scope was very heavy and awkward to carry on the rifle but one night it paid off with two targets. Both boats. I could only use it in daylight by putting a dense red filter on the lens. Daylight would burn it out. I only kept it on the rifle for about a week before I took it off when we moved into a less target rich area of operation. I'd like to see how your thermal imaging device works for you at night.
As I said before, I've been using the higher resolution Pulsar, it's got 50f in the name, for a couple of years now. Mainly for Nightjar surveys, which it's revolutionized, because I've captured behaviour no one knew about, and when they were silent, and otherwise I'd have not known what was going on. No sound, and not against the sky. I've found one of those video monopods, with feet and a fluid cartridge makes using it far easier. Not only is the video footage much better, but it is easier to scan side to side. I don't bother with a video head. I just put a quick release plate on the monopod, and tilt it back and forth for height adjustment. I've found hot red and hot white the best settings. With the hot red you want it on the lowest contrast setting, because whilst everything looks a bit indistinct, only living things tend to show up red or yellow. With the higher contrast settings, everything looks more distinct, but you get lots of vegetation glowing red or yellow, even if there's nothing living there. You can toggle through the contrast settings with the button, and a longer press of the button, switches it to hot white. It's learning the buttons, because at night you can't see them. Also each button responds differently to a light quick press, a longer press etc. I know someone who got one of the Zeiss thermal imagers, and they said it was rubbish, and they had to get a refund eventually. From asking the West Midlands Ringing Club, they definitely recommend the Pulsar. PS. At night, I've found it best to turn the brightness down a few notches, otherwise with the eye using it, you lose all night vision for a bit. With the Pulsar I've found it best to put the bolometer, on semi-auto, so it only resets when you dab the button. Because on full auto, the screen will suddenly reset and freeze, whilst you're trying to follow something. You can sort of set a hyperfocal distance on the lens, so most stuff in a certain range will be in focus. However, fine focus makes a difference to how well hotspots show up. It doesn't take much vegetation though to hide something or obscure your vision of it.
Very interesting. I'd love to get my hands on one for finding owls at night. Hard to believe it managed to highlight the Snipe hidden in the grass only three metres away and you struggled to see it. Brilliant!
I use a HIKmicro LYNX 19mm, 4 zooms and Auto focus. It was the best value for money IMO Lens size x cost. All you need to see is hotspots and your "good glass" does the rest. I picked up 6 deer last week at about 100yds (Very similar to the above video) with the naked eye I could then see only 1 of them but not the others, until they took flight. This is a game changer. Note the battery is not interchangeable so don`t leave it switched on ! On that day, Song birds at 20 to 40yds and crows at 200yds but not very well.
Hi Mike. It’s all about your individual preferences. I’d had Hik previously and got on ok with them. I find the controls and menus easy to use and it fits in the palm of my hand. Very handy to link to your phone if you have someone with you so they can also enjoy the magic of what you see 👌🏻😊 Happy spotting . You won’t look back 😉
Good thermal weather is overcast so you don’t chase after sun warmed rocks. A thermal spotter with at least 300 Pixels on the sensor side and around 3x optical is a good compromise. Optical zoom gives you fine detail, pixel count gives field of view. Around £1500 will give plenty of good options. Counted 24 snipe at WWT Arundel today. Also very useful at night too.i tend to use white or black hot, I find the red a bit artificial, but then I tried rainbow recently and it worked quite well too.
Hi Mike, another top video, the two devices were well reviewed by yourself 👍🏽 I agree with your choice, and the footage speaks for itself. I think it would be a good addition to the camera bag too 📸
Excellent review! It got me thinking that resolution and field of view are equally important in trying to find birds. Some of the most expensive thermal monoculars boast long ranges (1000+ yds) with a narrow field of view but what I need is 100 yds or less and a wide field of view (>17 degrees) to minimize scan time.
I use a ThermTec 315 Pro. On those difficult days when there seems to be nothing about it shows you that in fact there are creatures there. Their life often depends on hiding and they are good at it. Also at night it shows that there are huge numbers of deer, hares etc. So gives me some comfort that they are there in the daytime too, just need to find them.
I could certainly see myself walking around Knole Park in Kent seeking out the Deer at different times of the Year and It would save the old legs and I could spend more time thinking about the shots, the price however would be the discerning factor, superb Video as usual as all your Videos so full of useful information.Colin.
Top class video Mike and valuable to all who are considering Thermal Imaging to expand their wildlife adventures. An important point for any who plan to use their new acquisition abroad; it is very complicated and I have missed taking mine to Africa and Europe because of the risk of confiscation or the application of significant legal penalties! TI devices are in a customs category that require an export licence which is very easy to apply for via the UK govenment gateway SPIRE service, what is complex is the documentary control and transit processes which apply and which I still after nearly two years have failed to bottom out. Essentially, I think that in addition to the Export Licence you will require an ATA Carnet supposedly available via the UK Chambers of Commerce although all my email exchanges and attempts at conversation with representatives have failed to nail things down so far, also it is an expensive document. Then there is the process of individual border controls....frankly I have just decided not to waste more time on it for the moment, so if anyone has fathomed things out better than me I would love to hear from them. Mike, perhaps an opportunity for another video.... ??😉
Mike, you're a bad influence! {chuckling} Your closing philosophy sounds like my logic at times, though :))) . Seriously, I had to chuckle when I saw the subject of your video pop up, for I was just thinking about this in recent times, yet I hadn't done any research thus far. There is a plethora of wildlife here in North Dakota and neighboring Montana, from large game (elk, moose, pronghorn antelope, various deer and bighorn sheep) to smaller animals (coyotes, cougars, pheasants, grouse, weasels, badgers, porcupines, even mink). At first glance, one would think they would be simple to find with some patience in such wide-open country but, yes, they're all well-suited for the environment and blend in exceptionally well. In a nutshell, you answered the questions that had occurred to me and now I'll be shopping for a unit for myself. In this often rugged terrain (there are a lot of "badlands" here), such a unit could prove invaluable for obtaining the images I desire. Thanks for sharing this at such an uncannily perfect time.
I use a Hik Micro Gryphon for the same purpose and I would say its image is clearer than the model you were trying. I’ve also used it successfully to find lost dogs during the daytime. People think they’re only of benefit in the dark but given they’re only picking up the difference in heat sources they can be used at any time. 😉
I never considered these, but especially for pheasant this seems like a really good tool. So often I have accidentally scared a pheasant because I walked by without noticing it. I didn’t get my shot and the pheasant got a scare.
Viewed your video with great interest as I’m lucky enough to own a pulsar that I use regularly for night vision and find it excellent however I had never thought of using it for photography and finding subjects during the day I can see it would be great for locating woodcock etc brilliant idea thanks.
Went out the other day with pulsar and was surprised how I found various tits foraging in low dense vegetation and tree creepers that I would not normally of seen very easily ,great stuff
I knew it was a jack snipe right away when you said you were 3 m from it. Common snipes usually flush from at least a dozen meters or so, whilst jack snipes are so confident in their cryptic plumage, they won't flush until you almost step on them.
Fantastic video. I have been waiting for someone to do this exact experement and review for a long time. There are so many reviews of thermal monoculars used to spot dogs and sheep which a pretty valueless for me. This video has convinced me of the value of these devices. Thanks so much. Subscribed!
Very good Mike. I thought about getting one but have come to the conclusion that I would not get the use out of it, so it's on the maybe sometime I'll get one list. Thanks for sharing.
Interesting and useful (as ever). The resolution figures which you quoted appeared very low to me at first given the figures I am used to with modern optics like computer monitors, camera screens and so on but I guess that for thermal images, you are not looking for the same detail. I will follow this "adventure" with interest.
Fortunately technology has come on a lot since I got my Pulsar HD38s when it first came out, it's superb at night but in daylight it picks up a lot of ambient warmth from the sun in the trees, on the ground in fact all around. Maybe for autumn through to spring it may be ok, I'll have to take it out and try it. I spoke to a chap on the hikmicro stand at the photography and video show on Monday, I noticed that you were also talking to them, what did you think of their product? Did they pursuade you to part with your hard earned? I was going to say hello when I left the stand but you was talking to a couple. What did you think of the show? ATB Andy
BTW. That difference in what is glowing on the screen and what is not seems to be due to NETD difference (it is the DR equivalent in cameras). This pugged-on-the-phone one is very small therefore it seems to have smaller pixels and worse NETD (DR). It seems like it cannot represent finer differences in temperature as higher difference in signal recorded.
Hi good video, a few of my friends use the Hikmicro Lynx pro at £550 it's fantastic, but Hikmicro do much higher end thermal cameras too just depends how much you really want to spend.
Thank you Mike, I had been looking forward to this, seeing is believing as they say and the Pulsar definitely looks the business, however, unless you can make a return on it (make it pay for itself) I think it is going to be something that can wait for a Lotto win or for when Ernie coughs up, I may have to stick to a T2 for a while.
Mike, Another question which comes to mind after thinking very hard about using a thermal imaging monocular for wildlife spotting concerns the closest focussing distance available on these devices for when you are trying to spot birds and small mammals in bushes/undergrowth which may not be all that far away. (Thinking about animals which get camouflaged by their surroundings). None of the specs that I have come across mention close focussing distance as I guess most users have them to scope distant animals - in a hunting context - rather than animals relatively close by. Have you come across any such figures in your research?
I have not seen any figures, but I have bought the Pulsar XP50. Focus is a difficult thing to judge. The image is not clear enough to say if you are in critical focus. I have prefocused it so that I do not have to focus it much in normal use. I can look at infinity and see items glowing red. I can also point it at my foot and it glows red. I could refocus at this point, but it does not make much difference. It is still a red glow. If it was a jack snipe by my foot it would show up without the need to refocus.
These devices are design mainly to be used at night. Screens brightnes is not a concern is such a case. Also I had a problem with using it in a daytime. Thermal sesitivity of mine is mediocre so discerning animals from heated vegetation was difficult. When it went dark it was whole different story! Also there is funny thing about reflection. It blocks visible light so puddles that you would normally see as black or be able to see its bottom in a daytime looks like mirrors (they reflect infrared). Also computer screens look funy. You cant see anything you displaed on them and yet you see your IR reflection in them.
@@MikeLaneFRPS It works better in low light conditions obviously as the subject stands out much more. You do tend to get arc eye with prolonged use. Easy on Woodcock, you simply mark the area with a ribbon above the area in question so makes returning easier. A friend of mine has photographed Nightjars in Norway on nests with eggs and feeding young in the best with the same technique. Good luck if you decide to invest in the kit. I enjoy your videos very much, have learned a lot, and translated it into bringing in birds to my own place in the UK. Are you on Instagram?
I have the higher res Pulsar Helion 2 XP 50 and it has proved its worth in locating wildlife both at night and during the day. I have managed to film foxes at night and they couldn’t tell I was there until they picked up my scent. Even mice show really well at distant. Not cheap, but then quality rarely is…
Flir makes an thermal imaging monocular for around 600€ which is smaller than the device you tried. It is meant to be used for outdoor activities and it is fairly affordable compared to other devices which go for a few thousand euros/pounds/dollars etc.
Thank you for the update. I’ve been considering purchasing something similar for a while now. Whilst I set out with good intentions of discovering wildlife locally finding it is often much harder in reality so wondered if this could be a bit of an game changer?@@MikeLaneFRPS
I purchased one a couple years ago. Its been a godsend for finding owls to photograph, especially in the warmer months when the leaves are on the trees
What model do you use? I can hear owls near our house at night but have never seen any in the trees during the day. Would be nice to locate and film them.
I've got an XG35 and while it is an amazing tool I find carrying binoculars, it and a camera (potentially on a tripod/monopod) an absolute ball ache. Ideally I'd want a pair of binoculars which can do both but I don't think that's physically possible
@@MikeLaneFRPS That looks a lot bigger than mine so I can imagine. I got the one with the rangefinder attached as it was a good deal on eBay, I wish I hadn't since it would have been lighter without... I'm thinking of buying one of those Peak Design clips for it so I can have binoculars round my neck and the thermal on my backpack strap
@@MikeLaneFRPS I did some research after seeing your video and ended up ordering the same one (before seeing this comment). Excited to see what it will reveal out in the field!
Another thing to consider is the resolution of the viewfinder. at the £2,000 region you c an have a higher resolution sensor with a lower resolution viewfinder or vice versa. In most cases they offset each other but the higher sensor gives more texture - this may or may not be important but your video confirms what I have seen elsewhere that identification is more about movement and behaviour than the detail in the viewfinder.
@@MikeLaneFRPS fantastic gear. Top specs. Slightly lower resolution than Falcon FQ50 (different aspect ratio) but bigger pixels, even better NETD, same size lens with wider AoV as the sensor is bigger. I realy envy you! :D
I have a farm that is pitch dark at night and leopards, sloth bears, hyenas, jackals etc come out in. the night in good numbers, at times there is news of bandits who hide to escape the police from the city, the farm is right next to a savanna forest. I cannot afford the thermal sights, so will a thermal camera on android be any use in telling me that someone or something is approaching, at night? PS; you are welcome to visit me if you are interested in nightjars and other birds of Kuno national park, the farm will finish construction work this winter end hopefully.
It will be better than nothing in the dark, but as I tried to show in the film a proper thermal is much clearer. Prices are dropping quickly in the UK. The Pixfra Arc A613 I am testing currently is £1360 and far better then the previous 3 models I have tried. Small and light too.
Three things are important: 1. Resolution, 2. thermal sensitivity (ability to discern smaller differences in temperature NETD: the smaller the better. For instance Hikmicro Falcon FQ series has
I've used a thermal camera for around a year and found it very useful. I did a LOT of research before buying and in the end settled on a Pulsar monocular model. It wasn't the cheapest by a long way but I think I chose the best compromise between quality, functionality and price for my purposes. As others have mentioned, resolution, lens/field of view and thermal sensitivity are three key parameters - and I'd advise against going for the narrowest field of view or the widest. Too narrow and you're limiting yourself and will end up swinging it around all the time to scan a wider area, too wide and your targets may appear too small in the viewfinder. I find the thermal camera particularly useful when I'm working in a hide, which surprised me. I use it during those long hours when nothing is happening to find potential targets that might show themselves well enough for a photograph. It's amazing what is around you sometimes - you just can't see or hear it! Two pitfalls I've come across... First, thermal cameras can temporarily wreck your night vision. You won't be able to see properly in dark or low light conditions for a minute or so after taking it from your eye, so if you're doing low light photography work it can get in the way. Second, it's an extra bit of kit to carry around. I know it's small and not heavy, but I f found the thermal surprisingly awkward to add to my carry-around gear. I carry a lot, including a 600mm f4 prime, and I couldn't seem to find a comfortable position to carry the thermal where it would always be quickly and easily accessible when I needed it. In the end, I bought the Pulsar neck strap - which turned into a disaster for me because the connection to my camera came apart and the camera hit a rock on the ground when it fell. No damage to the unit, thankfully, but if it had gone down lens first it would have been an expensive mistake. I'm still going to use the neck strap but I will stitch it to the unit so it's permanently on. Overall though, thermal cameras are a great tool for finding wildlife. They take a bit of getting used to and work better in some conditions than others, but once you get used to using them they're worth it. Good luck and thanks for the video.
Thanks.
I wonder if it's easily possible to rig a Ti up so that it's more or less co-axially mounted with a camera. Must be possible. Just need someone to do it 😂
This was a very interesting program, Mike. Brings back memories of 1968 north of Hue just after the Tet offensive. I took a few guys (about 9 to 12) hunting every night. We had a couple of starlight scopes that we only used to see if our position was being approached. One week I took my starlight scope, which had a magnification of 4x, and mounted it on my rifle. Once I had it zeroed in it was dead on at 150 meters. The scope was very heavy and awkward to carry on the rifle but one night it paid off with two targets. Both boats. I could only use it in daylight by putting a dense red filter on the lens. Daylight would burn it out. I only kept it on the rifle for about a week before I took it off when we moved into a less target rich area of operation. I'd like to see how your thermal imaging device works for you at night.
Loved the end note: Never put off till tomorrow, what you can do today... 😅 Excellent video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This was a fantastic presentation. I had never thought of a thermal imager but you can see it would be useful in some situations.
Glad it was helpful!
As I said before, I've been using the higher resolution Pulsar, it's got 50f in the name, for a couple of years now. Mainly for Nightjar surveys, which it's revolutionized, because I've captured behaviour no one knew about, and when they were silent, and otherwise I'd have not known what was going on. No sound, and not against the sky. I've found one of those video monopods, with feet and a fluid cartridge makes using it far easier. Not only is the video footage much better, but it is easier to scan side to side. I don't bother with a video head. I just put a quick release plate on the monopod, and tilt it back and forth for height adjustment. I've found hot red and hot white the best settings. With the hot red you want it on the lowest contrast setting, because whilst everything looks a bit indistinct, only living things tend to show up red or yellow. With the higher contrast settings, everything looks more distinct, but you get lots of vegetation glowing red or yellow, even if there's nothing living there. You can toggle through the contrast settings with the button, and a longer press of the button, switches it to hot white. It's learning the buttons, because at night you can't see them. Also each button responds differently to a light quick press, a longer press etc. I know someone who got one of the Zeiss thermal imagers, and they said it was rubbish, and they had to get a refund eventually. From asking the West Midlands Ringing Club, they definitely recommend the Pulsar.
PS. At night, I've found it best to turn the brightness down a few notches, otherwise with the eye using it, you lose all night vision for a bit. With the Pulsar I've found it best to put the bolometer, on semi-auto, so it only resets when you dab the button. Because on full auto, the screen will suddenly reset and freeze, whilst you're trying to follow something. You can sort of set a hyperfocal distance on the lens, so most stuff in a certain range will be in focus. However, fine focus makes a difference to how well hotspots show up. It doesn't take much vegetation though to hide something or obscure your vision of it.
Thanks.
Interesting to see this Mike, thanks for making this, top work 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
That was a great review of the practical value of these devices. Thanks you.
Thanks
Very interesting. I'd love to get my hands on one for finding owls at night. Hard to believe it managed to highlight the Snipe hidden in the grass only three metres away and you struggled to see it. Brilliant!
Thanks for watching!
I use a HIKmicro LYNX 19mm, 4 zooms and Auto focus. It was the best value for money IMO Lens size x cost. All you need to see is hotspots and your "good glass" does the rest. I picked up 6 deer last week at about 100yds (Very similar to the above video) with the naked eye I could then see only 1 of them but not the others, until they took flight. This is a game changer. Note the battery is not interchangeable so don`t leave it switched on ! On that day, Song birds at 20 to 40yds and crows at 200yds but not very well.
@@funkygrib1 I just got the Lynx LH19 2.0 - it's awesome. Cool how you can switch out the batteries
I could certainly see a use for this in the Rutting season, thanks for the real world demonstration Mike 👍
Welcome.
Hi Mike. It’s all about your individual preferences. I’d had Hik previously and got on ok with them. I find the controls and menus easy to use and it fits in the palm of my hand. Very handy to link to your phone if you have someone with you so they can also enjoy the magic of what you see 👌🏻😊 Happy spotting . You won’t look back 😉
What a beautiful place you have! It's teeming with creatures and full of life in the field. So wild and incredibly beautiful!
Good thermal weather is overcast so you don’t chase after sun warmed rocks. A thermal spotter with at least 300 Pixels on the sensor side and around 3x optical is a good compromise. Optical zoom gives you fine detail, pixel count gives field of view. Around £1500 will give plenty of good options. Counted 24 snipe at WWT Arundel today. Also very useful at night too.i tend to use white or black hot, I find the red a bit artificial, but then I tried rainbow recently and it worked quite well too.
Interesting video Mike. It will certainly have its uses, but not sure it something I would use a lot.
I have one now.
Hi Mike, another top video, the two devices were well reviewed by yourself 👍🏽 I agree with your choice, and the footage speaks for itself. I think it would be a good addition to the camera bag too 📸
Thanks 👍
Excellent review! It got me thinking that resolution and field of view are equally important in trying to find birds. Some of the most expensive thermal monoculars boast long ranges (1000+ yds) with a narrow field of view but what I need is 100 yds or less and a wide field of view (>17 degrees) to minimize scan time.
Very true!
I use a ThermTec 315 Pro. On those difficult days when there seems to be nothing about it shows you that in fact there are creatures there. Their life often depends on hiding and they are good at it. Also at night it shows that there are huge numbers of deer, hares etc. So gives me some comfort that they are there in the daytime too, just need to find them.
I could certainly see myself walking around Knole Park in Kent seeking out the Deer at different times of the Year and It would save the old legs and I could spend more time thinking about the shots, the price however would be the discerning factor, superb Video as usual as all your Videos so full of useful information.Colin.
thanks.
Thank you. This provided a useful comparison of the two units.
Thanks.
Top class video Mike and valuable to all who are considering Thermal Imaging to expand their wildlife adventures.
An important point for any who plan to use their new acquisition abroad; it is very complicated and I have missed taking mine to Africa and Europe because of the risk of confiscation or the application of significant legal penalties! TI devices are in a customs category that require an export licence which is very easy to apply for via the UK govenment gateway SPIRE service, what is complex is the documentary control and transit processes which apply and which I still after nearly two years have failed to bottom out. Essentially, I think that in addition to the Export Licence you will require an ATA Carnet supposedly available via the UK Chambers of Commerce although all my email exchanges and attempts at conversation with representatives have failed to nail things down so far, also it is an expensive document. Then there is the process of individual border controls....frankly I have just decided not to waste more time on it for the moment, so if anyone has fathomed things out better than me I would love to hear from them. Mike, perhaps an opportunity for another video.... ??😉
Thanks. I know there can be problems, but do not know the details.
Very interesting! My default is always to use them for owling at night…..but of course, they’re useful during the day as well
Thanks for sharing!
Mike, you're a bad influence! {chuckling} Your closing philosophy sounds like my logic at times, though :))) . Seriously, I had to chuckle when I saw the subject of your video pop up, for I was just thinking about this in recent times, yet I hadn't done any research thus far. There is a plethora of wildlife here in North Dakota and neighboring Montana, from large game (elk, moose, pronghorn antelope, various deer and bighorn sheep) to smaller animals (coyotes, cougars, pheasants, grouse, weasels, badgers, porcupines, even mink). At first glance, one would think they would be simple to find with some patience in such wide-open country but, yes, they're all well-suited for the environment and blend in exceptionally well. In a nutshell, you answered the questions that had occurred to me and now I'll be shopping for a unit for myself. In this often rugged terrain (there are a lot of "badlands" here), such a unit could prove invaluable for obtaining the images I desire. Thanks for sharing this at such an uncannily perfect time.
You are welcome.
Interesting idea to use thermal vision.
I use a Hik Micro Gryphon for the same purpose and I would say its image is clearer than the model you were trying. I’ve also used it successfully to find lost dogs during the daytime. People think they’re only of benefit in the dark but given they’re only picking up the difference in heat sources they can be used at any time. 😉
I went for the Pulsar XP50 which looks sharper.
😂 You made the right choice not putting off til tomorrow. Good demo vid 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
You inspired me to have another go with my thermal imager.
Thank you.
I never considered these, but especially for pheasant this seems like a really good tool. So often I have accidentally scared a pheasant because I walked by without noticing it. I didn’t get my shot and the pheasant got a scare.
Thanks Mike, a fascinating and most helpful video. Never thought about getting one of these before.
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Mike,really nice to see this comparison and i also have a thermal imager but didn't used it much.Greetings Gijs
Thanks for watching!
Interesting Mike.
Thanks.
Viewed your video with great interest as I’m lucky enough to own a pulsar that I use regularly for night vision and find it excellent however I had never thought of using it for photography and finding subjects during the day I can see it would be great for locating woodcock etc brilliant idea thanks.
I found 6 woodcock today with mine, but photographed none.
Went out the other day with pulsar and was surprised how I found various tits foraging in low dense vegetation and tree creepers that I would not normally of seen very easily ,great stuff
I knew it was a jack snipe right away when you said you were 3 m from it. Common snipes usually flush from at least a dozen meters or so, whilst jack snipes are so confident in their cryptic plumage, they won't flush until you almost step on them.
Fantastic video. I have been waiting for someone to do this exact experement and review for a long time. There are so many reviews of thermal monoculars used to spot dogs and sheep which a pretty valueless for me. This video has convinced me of the value of these devices. Thanks so much. Subscribed!
I remember thinking the same. Thanks
Brilliant 👍. I've been thinking about night vision device for a while now, and this vlog has been very informative 👍. Nice one Mike 👏
Glad it was helpful!
👍
Great video as usual, thank Mike 👍👍
Very welcome
Great no nonsense review as always mike think my wife might disagree with your closing saying though 📷👍
Thanks 👍
Great video Mike. I'm tempted to get one now.
I now have one, but getting used to it.
Hi Mike,
Which model did you go for in the end?@@MikeLaneFRPS
@@bluteyPulsar Xp50
Great! Very helpful video.👍
Glad it was helpful!
very cool .. great device to have if you can afford it .. thanks well explained
Thanks for watching!
great idea. i ordered one. also, great reviews.
Hope you enjoy it!
Very good Mike. I thought about getting one but have come to the conclusion that I would not get the use out of it, so it's on the maybe sometime I'll get one list. Thanks for sharing.
I have one now so will see how mcuh use I get pout of it.
Very nice video! I hope I am going to find Jack Snipe and Woodcock BEFORE I flush them. Like I've always done in the past. There is hope now 🙂
Good luck!
Interesting and useful (as ever). The resolution figures which you quoted appeared very low to me at first given the figures I am used to with modern optics like computer monitors, camera screens and so on but I guess that for thermal images, you are not looking for the same detail. I will follow this "adventure" with interest.
Its a tiny image you are looking at.
I have a Pulsar and it is very handy for Hares, saves a lot of walking :-)
I went for the Pulsar XP50
Good move, save those old legs a bit ,also check around your house to see where you are loosing heat! @@MikeLaneFRPS
Fortunately technology has come on a lot since I got my Pulsar HD38s when it first came out, it's superb at night but in daylight it picks up a lot of ambient warmth from the sun in the trees, on the ground in fact all around. Maybe for autumn through to spring it may be ok, I'll have to take it out and try it.
I spoke to a chap on the hikmicro stand at the photography and video show on Monday, I noticed that you were also talking to them, what did you think of their product? Did they pursuade you to part with your hard earned?
I was going to say hello when I left the stand but you was talking to a couple.
What did you think of the show?
ATB Andy
My friend bought a Hikmicro while we were there. They looked very good, but I would need to try one in the field to really know.
Very useful. You've made my mind up thanks!
Glad I could help!
Thanks,Mike. Interesting. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
BTW. That difference in what is glowing on the screen and what is not seems to be due to NETD difference (it is the DR equivalent in cameras). This pugged-on-the-phone one is very small therefore it seems to have smaller pixels and worse NETD (DR). It seems like it cannot represent finer differences in temperature as higher difference in signal recorded.
Very good video well done👍
Thank you 👍
hi mike , I just got the Zeiss dti3/35 and I'm really impressed
Good to hear.
Hi good video, a few of my friends use the Hikmicro Lynx pro at £550 it's fantastic, but Hikmicro do much higher end thermal cameras too just depends how much you really want to spend.
I went for the Pulsar XP50.
Thank you Mike, I had been looking forward to this, seeing is believing as they say and the Pulsar definitely looks the business, however, unless you can make a return on it (make it pay for itself) I think it is going to be something that can wait for a Lotto win or for when Ernie coughs up, I may have to stick to a T2 for a while.
Fingers crossed!
Mike, Another question which comes to mind after thinking very hard about using a thermal imaging monocular for wildlife spotting concerns the closest focussing distance available on these devices for when you are trying to spot birds and small mammals in bushes/undergrowth which may not be all that far away. (Thinking about animals which get camouflaged by their surroundings). None of the specs that I have come across mention close focussing distance as I guess most users have them to scope distant animals - in a hunting context - rather than animals relatively close by. Have you come across any such figures in your research?
I have not seen any figures, but I have bought the Pulsar XP50. Focus is a difficult thing to judge. The image is not clear enough to say if you are in critical focus. I have prefocused it so that I do not have to focus it much in normal use. I can look at infinity and see items glowing red. I can also point it at my foot and it glows red. I could refocus at this point, but it does not make much difference. It is still a red glow. If it was a jack snipe by my foot it would show up without the need to refocus.
@@MikeLaneFRPS Thank you - I guess that is the important thing - detection - rather than focus. Thank you for the reply.
Excellent, thanks. I've been wondering if a USB imager would help me find birds. I think you've given me the answer.
Glad I could help
These devices are design mainly to be used at night. Screens brightnes is not a concern is such a case. Also I had a problem with using it in a daytime. Thermal sesitivity of mine is mediocre so discerning animals from heated vegetation was difficult. When it went dark it was whole different story! Also there is funny thing about reflection. It blocks visible light so puddles that you would normally see as black or be able to see its bottom in a daytime looks like mirrors (they reflect infrared). Also computer screens look funy. You cant see anything you displaed on them and yet you see your IR reflection in them.
Very good for finding Woodcock, other ground nesting birds to locate and then position hide
Hopefullu.
@@MikeLaneFRPS It works better in low light conditions obviously as the subject stands out much more. You do tend to get arc eye with prolonged use. Easy on Woodcock, you simply mark the area with a ribbon above the area in question so makes returning easier. A friend of mine has photographed Nightjars in Norway on nests with eggs and feeding young in the best with the same technique. Good luck if you decide to invest in the kit. I enjoy your videos very much, have learned a lot, and translated it into bringing in birds to my own place in the UK. Are you on Instagram?
I have the higher res Pulsar Helion 2 XP 50 and it has proved its worth in locating wildlife both at night and during the day. I have managed to film foxes at night and they couldn’t tell I was there until they picked up my scent. Even mice show really well at distant. Not cheap, but then quality rarely is…
That is the one I have bought.
Bet it would be good at nigjt as well just to see whats out and about after sunset. 👍
I will try it soon.
That one looks better than my Leica.
Flir makes an thermal imaging monocular for around 600€ which is smaller than the device you tried. It is meant to be used for outdoor activities and it is fairly affordable compared to other devices which go for a few thousand euros/pounds/dollars etc.
Thanks.
Great review. Pity they're so expensive!
They are getting cheaper.
Hi Mike are you able to give us an update to how you are getting on with the Pulsar?
I am using it a fair bit, but I have nothing to compare it to. It helps me find things, but I wish it was smaller and lighter.
Thank you for the update. I’ve been considering purchasing something similar for a while now. Whilst I set out with good intentions of discovering wildlife locally finding it is often much harder in reality so wondered if this could be a bit of an game changer?@@MikeLaneFRPS
I purchased one a couple years ago. Its been a godsend for finding owls to photograph, especially in the warmer months when the leaves are on the trees
What model do you use? I can hear owls near our house at night but have never seen any in the trees during the day. Would be nice to locate and film them.
I am also interested to learn which one you purchased.
@@blutey HIK Micro Lynx Pro 19mm Thermal Monocular Scope this was the best in my price range.
Thanks. Looks like a good one!@@Foxystorm11111
Thanks. Looks like a good one!@@Foxystorm11111
I've been trying to photograph snip this winter. They always see me before I see them. But it's too expensive, I'll wait for price to drop a bit.
They are getting cheaper.
A really useful vid 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Serious question, what are the advantages of binoculars over looking through the camera?
Much clearer image and compact, therefore easier to hold without strain.
Is the pond with the (jack) snipe the same one as the one from the dragonfly video?
Very close by.
I've got an XG35 and while it is an amazing tool I find carrying binoculars, it and a camera (potentially on a tripod/monopod) an absolute ball ache. Ideally I'd want a pair of binoculars which can do both but I don't think that's physically possible
I have bought the Pulsar XP50 and it is heavy.
@@MikeLaneFRPS That looks a lot bigger than mine so I can imagine. I got the one with the rangefinder attached as it was a good deal on eBay, I wish I hadn't since it would have been lighter without...
I'm thinking of buying one of those Peak Design clips for it so I can have binoculars round my neck and the thermal on my backpack strap
I wonder how those would work in warmer climates when there is not as much difference in temperature
Work better in the colder weather.
How is it at looking into hedges for nesting birds ?
No reason why it would not glow.
Which model did you end up buying?
Pulsar XP 50
@@MikeLaneFRPS I did some research after seeing your video and ended up ordering the same one (before seeing this comment). Excited to see what it will reveal out in the field!
I saw this video and thaught this might solve all my problems with finding wildlife. Then i saw the price and decided to continue my way without one
Hi, where is the best place to buy the pulsar xp50 ?
I usually buy off Ebay as I look for secondhand, but Google "Pulsar XP50" or "thermal imagers"
T3 perhaps is better suited for tradesmen rather than wildlife.
I think so.
I thought you would be using it at night....
You said it wouldn't be long you weren't fibbing. Thanks.
Welcome.
Another thing to consider is the resolution of the viewfinder. at the £2,000 region you c an have a higher resolution sensor with a lower resolution viewfinder or vice versa. In most cases they offset each other but the higher sensor gives more texture - this may or may not be important but your video confirms what I have seen elsewhere that identification is more about movement and behaviour than the detail in the viewfinder.
Mike, it is the ground. Floors are man-made things and found in buildings. Forgive me but I find this really irritating. 👍
Please let us know which one have you bought and why.
The Pulsar XP50 for the higher resolution.
@@MikeLaneFRPS fantastic gear. Top specs. Slightly lower resolution than Falcon FQ50 (different aspect ratio) but bigger pixels, even better NETD, same size lens with wider AoV as the sensor is bigger. I realy envy you! :D
Yet none of our military uses that . They use gear that isn't for sale and made to a far higher spec
Which current model should I look for?
Can you lend me 2 thousand Mike? 😅😅
I will check with my wife so it may take a while!
I have a farm that is pitch dark at night and leopards, sloth bears, hyenas, jackals etc come out in. the night in good numbers, at times there is news of bandits who hide to escape the police from the city, the farm is right next to a savanna forest. I cannot afford the thermal sights, so will a thermal camera on android be any use in telling me that someone or something is approaching, at night? PS; you are welcome to visit me if you are interested in nightjars and other birds of Kuno national park, the farm will finish construction work this winter end hopefully.
It will be better than nothing in the dark, but as I tried to show in the film a proper thermal is much clearer. Prices are dropping quickly in the UK. The Pixfra Arc A613 I am testing currently is £1360 and far better then the previous 3 models I have tried. Small and light too.
@@MikeLaneFRPS thank you for sharing your experience. I will get one