Why are your bird in flight pictures not sharp? I try to show it is unlikely to be the settings.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2023
- The most frequest question I get asked is why are my pictures not sharp, especially with birds in flight. This can be with any camera or lens, but since I use OM cameras I get more enquiries about this system than any other.
It is an impossible question to answer. Sharp pictures of birds in flight should be easy with todays modern equipment, but not everyone finds it so. In this film I try to illustrate that it is unlikely to be a setting that is not correct. There are very few settings that you need to get right and by doing a factory reset just before I start taking pictures I show the ones you have to worry about.
Mike Lane wildlife photography www.nature-photography.co.uk/
Hey Mike, it looks like you had excellent light for that session, so yes your settings will work. I agree with all your points except for one and that's when conditions are not so favorable. And I also shoot with the om1 & 150-400 pro lens. But have found that shooting in all or the large focus box especially in low light or hazy skies will produce soft images for me. My best sharpest images of, for example photographing ospreys diving and capturing fish with their talons in flight is using the middle box and making sure that the focus limiter switch on the lens set correctly and in my case at 6m to infinity. Focus sensitivity set to plus 1 and also set to C-Af. I don't worry about Iso, so it is set to auto 6400 with a minimum shutter spd. of 2000 for large birds and for small birds I shoot in pro capture, ss minimum 4000 and again auto iso 6400. I like to shoot with back button focus. I find I have more control of activating or deactivating the focusing box and re-focusing on the subject that way. I still remember one session shooting ospreys in early morning low light I had my triangle set correctly as I described above but still getting a lot of soft images and I look at my lens, and I forgot to switch back my range limiter to 6m-infinity, because earlier in the morning I was shooting stills of sparrows in heavy cover using 1.3m-infinity, since they were sometimes perched very close to me. In other words, I find that this lens has a very short depth of field at 300-500mm so proper settings in camera and on the lens is so critical. The less time the camera and nor lens spends hunting focus, the sharper your image. (by the way, not trashing the lens, this is one heck of a very versatile lens when used properly) Also, stab is set to on, in camera and on the lens for maximum stabilization. No herky, jerky movements when panning the camera from side to side when following birds in flight, good steady motion for sharp images. If you are shooting birds in flight i.e. a puffin and the wind is blowing like heck then you have to take off your lens hood and just be very careful shooting, sacrifice a couple of shots with sun flares because with the lens hood on, the wind will get inside that lens hood and create that herky jerky movement for soft images. And for perched birds in heavy cover, I shoot S-AF using sometimes the smallest focus box pointed right on their eye, I setup my om1 to back button focus get focus on the eye, recompose and take the picture. And Mike you're absolutely correct that the result of a bad picture was because of my user error, mostly because I didn't know how to use my om1 and my 150-400 correctly. It took me almost one-year of shooting with this combo to figure what settings worked for me. Hopefully this will work for someone out there.
When I used to teach BIF photography, nine times out of ten people were using too slow a shutterspeed as they were trying to shoot with low ISO.
this ^^^. Not using a fast enough shutter speed and not stopping down enough are the 2 things that cause a lack of sharpness with BIFs. i typically shoot larger raptors with a minimum of 1/2000 @ f7.1 and float the ISO accordingly, but I'm not entirely happy and will probably bump the shutter speed to 1/4000 and f stop to f8. Note: I am using an older mark 1 500f4 EF with a mark 3 1.4x TC.
Very good video. I am a new OM-1 Mrkii owner and I really appreciate your to-the-point explanations.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant video Mike 👍 I do own the OM-1 with the 300mm f.4 and it works great for me. No issues whatsoever with the auto focus. It does show that 99% of the time, it is a user error and not the gear! Keep uploading your very helpful videos. 👏
Good to hear
That was excellent, thank you. Just changed from m1 mk2 to OM-1 mk1 and I'm still playing with options. Really helpful to have such a straightforward summary
Glad it helped!
Another clear, concise post from Mr Lane. Thankyouthankyouthankyou Mike!
Glad it was helpful!
Another interesting video.Looking forward to the next couple.
Thanks David
What a good tutorial. Nicely paced and easy to follow. Pity I don’t have an OMD camera!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Mike, I will be going into the menu and seeing if I've got it right and look forward to seeing the next videos. Thanks for sharing.
The next videos are more comprehensive.
Another top video Mike. OM Systems should be paying you for these.
Would they buy me a new car. I get mobile again tomorrow.
Honestly, I think it takes getting used to the lens. For example, using my PL 200 2.8 prime and 1.4x was a totally different experience from using my old PL 100-400 and my Oly 40-150 2.8. Holding it, shutter speeds best apertures for the lens, etc. It took like a week, but I improved quite a bit with the prime.
Mike, thanks for a straight forward group of settings that work most of the time. As you say it is too easy to chase settings and get lost. With the sun behind you and the bird filling > 10% of frames the good results should be achievable. At 1/2500 and
Thanks Mike, useful stuff.
Glad to help
Very helpful, thanks! EDIT: and lovely photos !
You're welcome!
A lot of people don't use a tripod. Although the image stabilization is very good these days I feel a lot of people rely on this ! A Gimbal or Fluid head is still required for best performance in this situation ! Which I am sure you mentioned in your presentation Mike. But well worth reiterating !
All the best Mike hopefully you saved me a few comments on the Sony A1, but most people tend to have mastered this one, when you spend £6500 on just the Camera body alone !
🤔
My composition improves on a tripod.
BIF takes a lot of time and effort to master. The very "best" shoot the very heavy combo Sony a1 and the 600mm f4 prime without a tripod. Your movement is restricted using a tripod. You have to be zoomed out to capture BIF on tripod, so you have to crop heavily and lose a lot of detail and that is what you definitely don't want to do using a mft camera. And with Mike's scenario he is shooting in a controlled environment with dozens of birds to choose from. When you have fewer opportunities because of the lack of subjects, you cannot be on a tripod because you will miss the shot. When I shoot on a tripod, I'm photographing wildlife of the four-legged kind that move a lot slower. I own an om1 with the 150-400mm, it allows me to get in tight. 1000mm w/tc set to on (35mm equivalent) So to me, the whole trick is to shoot with this lighter set up w/o a tripod zoomed in tight, so as not crop the image so you don't lose those 20megs of detail. BIF I shoot wide open and usually zoomed in 300+ mm for max detail on subject, not easy but when done correctly the images are just as good as the FF Sony a1 w/ 600mm prime and that opinion comes from my buddy that owns a Sony A1 + 600mm.
Great information which can be translated to whatever is your chosen brand of Camera. Keep well 👍🇬🇧
Yes, thanks
Normally I’m terrified to reset the camera! I’ve spent so much time getting the “right” settings and storing them that I wouldn’t want to have to go through all that again. But you’ve convinced me that it’s not that difficult and maybe I should try it. Having said that, I don’t typically have trouble with my 300mm f/4 in acquiring focus, but for sure, I have had times when I did have settings that were interfering with each other.
Thanks for this video, and I’ll be watching for more in the series.
It was the perfect time for me to do it as I had just made two films on all the settings so it was fresh in my head.
Larry - try this. Set a starting shutter speed and f stop (a good starting point, imho, is 1/2000 and f7.1). Don't be too antsy about high ISO noise, although the smaller pixels on the micro 4/3 sensor on the OM-1 will probably be a bit ugly above ISO 6400. Good light is important with BIFs, and having a front lit bird will always result in better sharpness and more accurate focus with modern MLCs. Back lit subjects are higher contrast and AF systems will struggle imho.
There's nothing to be afraid of - you're shooting digital, so the worst thing that can happen is you don't get the best image. The more you practice, the better you will get at it. Get out there and spend hours in the field.
Very interesting and informative video. I find too slow a shutter speed is most often the culprit responsible for less than sharp photos.
great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Even with the fantastic image stabilisation provided by OM Systems and the ability to hand hold in most situations, using a tripod, monopod or beanbag greatly improves the “hit rate”. Another great video Mike thank you
Thanks.
Great video Mike, very helpful. Super images too. What exposure compensation did you use against the blue sky? Cheers
Against a white sky maybe a stop and a bit over, although I avoid white skies. Against a blue sky maybe only a 1/3rd over.
@@MikeLaneFRPS Cheers Mike 📸
My dream camera is the Om1 so this is helpful for me in the future and helpful for making me want one even more. Great shots of the red kites mike
thanks.
I currently have the EMI Mk III. Love it. I'd like to upgrade to the OM1 for bird detection but when I bought the EMI Mk III, within a month or two the OM1 came out. At this point, I'm kind of waiting for an OM2 before I take that plunge. I thank you for this video. I do have issues getting sharp images of birds in flight. Also, the underbellies are typically dark. I crank up the exposure compensation but that doesn't seem to do the job. Perhaps the birds I am shooting are too distant. How far away is your typical shot in these images? Thank you very much. I appreciate the effort you put into your videos.
I do not crop pictures usually so very close to most birds.
Great video 👍
No focus issues for me but am curious on some of your other settings. Is there a reason for locking in iso 1600? Do you use this setting the majority of bif? Do you often use any exposure comp? And I guess you’re using aperture priority to keep things simple, less messing around during fast action? Thanks 👍
I use aperture priority because I started with it 50 plus years ago and if I try something new I start making mistakes. Yes i use exposure compensation, usually by instinct and very quickly with the front dial. Every time I buy a new camera I test the ISO by taking a series of images of a out of focus background, 100, 200, 400 iso etc. Then I look at the results on the computer and decide where noise first becomes noticable. With the OM-1 it is between 1600-3200 so 1600 became my default. I go to 6400 readily.
@@MikeLaneFRPS thank you 👍
@@MikeLaneFRPSfor your dial settings, do you have exposure comp on front dial, aperture on back dial and iso on the iso button? I’m just thinking of the quickest ways to change settings in this mode. Thanks 👍
Yes just like that. Using the My menus and custom modes is vital for me.
@@MrThree6ty
Very helpful indeed, many thanks Mike! Unfortunately I can't afford the 150-400 PRO, my longest lens is the 40-150 F4 PRO, superb lens, but too short in many situations. So I will have to decide between the 100-400mm/5-6.3, the 300 F4 PRO, and the cheap but slow 75-300 II. Maybe you can give me an advice which one you would pick for birds in flight.
100-400mm would be my choice. My recent Goshawk Yt film shows images in flight with it.
Mike is right, I have it too and it`s really good! The zoom function has more advantages than the light intensity.
Very helpful thanks Mike. I think a big point with birds in flight is being close enough to them. When Buzzards or Kites are soaring past up in the sky, they are just too far away to get a great shot. I have tried many times and they are never great. I use the OM1 MKIII with the 100-400mm and a 1.4x TC. I think to get the shots I would want I will have to get to a hide where they birds are much much closer than out in the wild high in the sky. You set it to A priority. Why not manual and does it make any difference? 👍
Best to use what you are used to so long as you get to the right exposure and there are several ways to do that.
Hello, I think the problem is that people only see your sharp photos and think the photos should all be like that.
Yes that is true. I also suspect peoples expectations are too high. The circumstances have to be right or I don't even take the camera out of the bag, but I will watch others shooting away.
If the light is crap, even the best camera is of no use.🤣@@MikeLaneFRPS
Thanks Mike. Whatever you do, don't update to FW1.5, I have had better experience and success rate with FW1.4. FW1.5 isn't that bad, I still have been getting lots of keeper, But FW1.4 is just better at BIF and even with static bird with super high contrast in the background. Love you works! Cheer...
I have been on 1.5 for a long time. I see no difference. Not better or worse.
Maybe it's the birds in your are who upgraded
@@MikeLaneFRPS Interesting as the reason I thought you haven't updated to 1.5 is because your footage show FW1.4! The different is to me when shooting in a more difficult situation. Of course, it is the situation that most people will find no reason to shoot. But I am often document something for educational purposes.
I will have to check. I looked at one body and it was 1.5, maybe the one I used in the film was not updated.
@@narinthip3058
I really look forward to Saturday mornings and today was excellent as always.
You don't seem to mention anything about wandering of focus during a sequence anymore. Have you solved that problem ?
No its still there. My films are usually 10 minutes long and I always worry about being too repetative each week and try and find new things to say.
I suspect wandering of focus will be related to the FPS set in camera. i think there comes a point where the AF calcs per second are simply too much and the sensor cannot keep up. Just cos a camera offers 50fps doesn't mean you have to use it.
Hi Mike & hello from Oz, thankyou for a very simple but helpful guide.
I'm very close to making the change from my heavy (at my age) Canon system to either the Om-1 or the new Lumix G9 mkII, I'm really only waiting to see what firmware updates there is to the G9 mkII before its released.
I look forward to your next video on more settings for the OM-1.
Cheers & thanks again.
PS.
Your thoughts on the Lumix G9 mkII ??
Most of the specs on the G9 MK2 are better than the OM-1, but not specs that really matter to me. I will not rush to buy one and a new camera from OM is overdue.
@@MikeLaneFRPS thankyou for taking the time to reply Mike, it will be interesting to see what OM bring next.
the OM-1 is very nice, but in poorer lighting conditions, it will be crucified by the R5. If you have a bad back, and gear weight is an issue, then yes, switch to OM systems. I have a very bad lower back and manage just fine with my mark 1 500f4 and R3 (~5kg). I typically get out 3-4 times per week where possible too. The OM-1 is very tempting for its weight/size and 2x crop factor. And with a 20mp 4/3 2x crop sensor, that's around 50mp FF equivalent, so very nice resolution. Plus, that extra reach from the crop sensor is very nice too. If I was starting afresh, I'd probably go with the OM-1, but sadly, I have a heavy Canon setup in terms of gear and it's not financially feasible for me to swap marques.
@@davepastern Thankyou for your input, I find now with my back issues (just had lower spinal fusions & cage on 3 vertebrae as last resort) I don't just get out as often because of the weight issues.
If my gear is in the car & I don't have to walk far or carry everything then it's ok but as soon as I have to walk with & carry gear it's just too much.
I think the OM-1 or G9 II would be good for me, I'II just have to see what the G9 II is like with its final firmware updates.
Thanks again.
@@georgebowden6748 yes, I have lower back issues too (osteoarthritis from L5 downwards, collapsing disc at L5, nerve impingement at L5, scoliosis from L5 down). I also have severe osteoarthritis in my L shoulder (along with tendonitis and bursitis) and osteoarthritis in my L hand/thumb/wrist/and lower forearm. Life is a mongrel when you get older. My GP has suggested fusing and Titanium plating, but I ain't going there. I have heard too many people who've had that operation say "don't do it".
The OM-1 being smaller and lighter will be a great option for you.
The R5II and RF100-500 will be a great option too imho, albeit slightly heavier. ***when the R5II is finally release of course.
The OM-1 will have the advantage of being lighter and a 2x crop sensor (and QPAF), but is only 20mp (~52mp FF equivalent).
The R5 II, being full frame, will have a high ISO performance advantage and imho, better AF. The original R5, with DPAF and like 3.5 years old, easily matches and slightly outperforms the AF performance of the much newer OM-1 imho. The R5II should better the R5 in terms of AF speed and accuracy. Also, the RF100-500 has a very close working distance, which can come in handy.
Another option, if financially viable, is pairing the A1 (sans battery grip) with the 200-600. Still heavier than the OM-1
The OM systems 150-400 is AUD 11k. That is NOT cheap. I can get 2 of the RF100-500 for this price and have 2k leftover for something else. Canon is rumoured to be offering a 200-800 zoom soon, rumoured price ~4k AUD. So, will match the OM systems lens at 36% of the price if the rumoured price is indeed correct. The OM lens is also 1.8kg. The RF100-500 is 1.4kg. Advantage for the OM lens is of course, it's effectively a 300-800 lens with the 2x crop sensor. Camera body weight wise - OM-1 is 599gm with battery and the R5 is 738gm with battery. So, the Canon is 138gm heavier. The lens weight makes up for that.
IMHO, trade offs will be the R5 being physically slightly larger, the OM lens is larger than the RF100-500 (negating any overall advantage imho), weight wise, they are similarly matched when you combine body and lens. Resolution, about the same. Noise performance? The R5 smacks the OM-1 here. As a birding photographer myself, there are many situations where you'll be shooting above ISO4000, even in brighter sunny days. I have now shifted to 1/4000, f8, ISO 4000 (with the ISO varying depending upon shooting conditions) for BIFs. I am finding that I am getting sharper images than my normally used 1/2000 f7.1. I shoot a lot of raptors in flight.
Even a used R5 is an option imho, although I would personally recommend waiting for the mark II version due to the mp increase and BSI stacked sensor that it will almost certainly offer.
PS I am not a Sony stan. I'm a Canon user (R3 and mark 1 500f4 prime). I have adapted to the very heavy weight of my setup, although sometimes my back and shoulder doesn't appreciate it LOL. Yes, I would like a lighter setup. I am intrigued by the rumoured RF200-800 lens and if it's any good, it'll be my next purchase instead of selling my mark 1 prime and upgrading to the mark 2 500f4 I think (I am still torn by this LOL!).
Anyway, sorry for the long response. Do you have a website or Instagram? I'd like to check your photos out if you don't mind?
Another advantage of the OM1 is there are no rolling shutter artifacts with electronic high shutter speeds. The read out speeds are up there with the most expensive flagship FF bodies.
I keep hearing about rolling shutter with some Canon cameras. I thought it was a thing of the past.
Hi Mike, you didn’t mention pre-shoot option.What do you think about it?
Procapture is fantastic. I look for the opportunity to use it all the time and have mentioned it many times in my YT films, but it is not appropraite for this sort of flight photography. Procapture is for when you do not know when something is going to happen and you will not have time to react. Such as a bird taking off from a perch. I used it in a recent film on dragonflies.
I am able to get sharp pictures of kite in flight with not many AF related settings changes with my OM-1 and the 300mm f/4 lens and 1.4x teleconverter from my parents' back garden. The hardest part is finding them in the frame and then keeping them there when they get close enough to make an interesting picture. Because they are not being fed, it is much less predictable where they will fly.
I find the flickerless viewfinder helps to keep them in the frame.
@@MikeLaneFRPS Ahh, you have more skill and practice at this than I by far, I think. I have to use the dot sight to have a sensible chance of acquiring them in the frame.
Mike a question… Why would you rather use opening mode to priority shutting mode?
Aperture mode is what I have always used. If you need the fastest shutter speed open the aperture wide open and you have it. With birds you often need a fast shutter speed. If you use shutter speed priority it might be possible to have a faster shutter speed than you have set.
@@MikeLaneFRPS Thank you very much for the information, Mike.❤️
in my experience image stabilization does affect shooting BIF , do you turn IS off ?
Mode 3 on Sony lenses. Im hesitant to turn the IS off completely because the image in the viewfinder could prove to wobbly to successfully track the bird.
I never turn it off. Impossible to prove conclusively so we all have our own feelings on this.
That`s the way it is!@@MikeLaneFRPS
Did you say you set the camera to Aperture priority in your preamble. Shouldn’t that be S shutter priority.?
I prefer to use aperture priority. If you want a fast shutter speed open the aperture wide and you will get the fastest shutter speed. Does not really matter which you use, using what you are familar with is important. I don't want to have to stop and think. I want to work quickly and automatically and for 50 plus years have done the same. Too old to change!
Great video on a subject that I struggle with, but i'm confused as to how you set the shutter speed to 1/2500th with Aperture priority.
I do not want to go slower than 2500th for birds in flight. With the aperture wide open that is easy to achieve at 1600 iso. If it get slower than 2500th I either increase the ISO or stop taking flight pictures.
Gotcha! Many thanks. @@MikeLaneFRPS 👍
😊😊👍👍❤❤👌👌
LOL
When I viewed your pictures I thought no one was sharp. Then it hit me!
TH-cam had for some reason started the video in 480p. Switched to my displays 1440p.
NB This can happen when a video is newly published. Sometimes it can take a while before the higher resolution is available in TH-cam.
I load my films weeks in advance of them going live. With a new film each week I have to work ahead.
@@MikeLaneFRPS Ok Mike! Then it was just was a little hickup on youTubes side.
Thanks for many informative videos. Have an Olympus OM-D EM1 Mark II.
Best Greetings from Sweden
Mine was awesome when I had one 👍🏻
Practise makes perfect 😏😏. Kites fly relatively slowly so they are a great bird on which to practise 😊. I am still trying to get in focus sharp shots of Swallows in flight 🤨😏
The nice thing about Gigrin is they are slow in the air and very fast as they dive so a good testing ground for AF at all levels.
Would you like OM systems to bring out all New OM-1X with 24 megapixel stacked sensor with all new image processor and bigger dials and joystick to make easier to operate with winter gloves on, where I live taking gloves off is not a great idea especially when it’s -20 Celsius outside.
Gloves not an issue for me. I think of OM cameras as being very innovative so do wonder what great features they may come up with on the next camera.
@@MikeLaneFRPS
where I live, I have to wear thick gloves ,
If only they can make the dial and joystick very slightly bigger with the Mark two version, besides having a sensor with a higher megapixel count .
No no no / the ambient lighting and truth of focus in the system is when you get sharp images / iso settings and low noise is critical -- that’s why people get consistent results with Sony because of iso performance
A fast shutter speed is vital. Ibis won’t help anyone
Yep, this obviously depends on the speed of the bird but most novice photographers tend to exteremely underestimate the importance of shutter speed. Steve Perry has a great explanation on this. People think something like 1/1000 is enough while in reality you need upwards of 1/3200, especially if the bird is relatively close to you. Cheers.
Now just imagine for a second you were able to customize your camera before the purchase and get rid off all the unnecessary mumbo-jumbo that you would never use anyway, leaving just those few crucial options/settings Mike mentioned. You could pay probably half or third the price. I wish camera manufacturers started offering this possibility.
A camera i owned maybe 50 years ago had a switch on it many people glued so it could not be changed. Too many options.
It’s just a simplistic view on the camera market. With a top notch camera like OM-1 you are buying a versatile tool that can do many types of photography and suit a lot of people with lots of different tastes.
If it was a birds-in-flight camera with 3 settings like you wish then probably it would cost a fortune because of the R&D and the tiny market it would target.
What R&D are you talking about? All the necessary functions are already developed, the ones Mike mentioned. I don't need the rest of the stuff as I only do bird photography, I'm therefore not interested in having "a versatile tool that can do many types of photography" - why then do I have to pay for things I will never use anyway. We now have customizable cars, computers, pretty much anything. Why not apply this to cameras? I get that it may currently be complicated from a technological point of view but as time passes this should become more and more viable. @@marchukD
Exactly, I think philosophy calls it the paradox of choice (akin to analysis paralysis). @@MikeLaneFRPS
The description of C-AF+Tracking in the Manual is rather unclear. I think it means that an objekt is still tracked when it leaves the AF-field. If you set the AF-field to full frame there will be no difference. But If the AF-field is smaller, the tracking will stop as soon as the bird is outside the field.
It is very unclear. I spoke to OM cameras techical staff and was told that for subject detection C-AF was marginally better. I had previously tested both C-AF and C-Af with tracking extensivley and could see no difference with subject detection.
With C-AF and bird detection even if you only have one small focus point active it will follow the bird all over the screen. The one focus point simply helps it know which bird to lock onto or where the bird is (perhaps in vegetation).
I only photograph wildlife, but suspect C-AF with tracking is for subjects outside the scope of subject detection, but I have never bothered to try and test this.
How lucky you are to have hides and lots of birds waiting to be fed at a predetermined time. A little different to shooting in open environments.
Illustrative, useful. You are the reference for the OM-1. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!