My friend this is an exellent video for help us to change the reisers and manifolds....thank you so much.... Many many many greetings to you from Athens Greece.... !
Cut the heads off of 2 bolts or use a stud bolts. Screw studs at each end of the head and slide on gasket then manifold. Put in other bolts and then take the 2 studs out and replace with bolts. Studs hold all the weight while you start other bolts. Makes it easy
Excellent video Brett! For new to boating people like myself, its a very in depth, to the point tutorial! I LOVE the fact that you don't feel the need to talk ALL THE TIME!!! You only speak when passing on the information. Thanks and keep up the great work!!
7:32 you state those are 9/16 inch bolts. Know what you getting at but those are 3/8. Goes by diameter size of the threaded portion of the bolt not the size of the bolt head. Got another tip for ya. In my tool box I made guide bolts. Used a paint marker so I know which ones are 3/8, 5/16, 11 mm, 14 mm, etc. Bought hardened grader bolts of different sizes then I cut the heads off. Beveled the edges with a bench grinder. Then used my die grinder to create a slot big enough for a flat tip screw driver to fit. I screw these in hand tight to guide gaskets and parts like the manifold on. Get a couple bolts started then remove the guide bolts by hand or screw driver. Makes life so much easier. Makes installing transmissions easier. Splitting tractors to replace clutch packs you name it.
Quick tip. Get two 6” long 3/8” bolts, cut off the heads, then thread them into the outer holes. Now slide the gasket and manifold on. Secure the inner bolts and replace the outer bolts. Dont rest 50# manifold on the spark plugs. They. Are porcelain not able to support weight.
Install studs on the outside holes in the head, slot the gasket bolt holes on the bottom side for the new studs and slip the manifold on the two studs. Then install gasket from the top and install the remaining 2 bolts. Easy.
When purchasing manifolds and risers the qualty goes up like this Mercury > BARR > GLM. Its worth it to pay more IMHO. BARR worked for me but not coated like Merc's so won't last as long but they worked just need to use more sealant than what is show in this video. I did have to redon my starboard one riser to manifold gasket once. I also had to paint my BARRS as the paint quality wasn't as thick as OEM Merc's. Next time, in like 5-7 years I would pay the extra for the Merc's.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your well thought and executed installation tips. I have not tackled this kind of job yet on an I/O, but I will certainly refer to this video when I have to face replacement of manifolds and risers. A few questions for you if you are still checking your videos for comments or questions on a regular basis: 1. The mounting bolts for the manifolds and the risers look like some kind of oxidized coated alloy steel. That said, would it not be a good idea to put some anti-seize on them that can handle high temps associated with exhaust gases? 2. Wouldn't it be relatively easy to take off your engine hatch cover/hood to do that job? I did a lot of deep-in-the-bilge work on an I/O boat once, and it made a world of difference as far as improved accessibility and comfort by taking the engine hatch cover off.......but I did have the luxury of working on the boat in a large shop where I did not have to worry about inclement weather soaking the engine.
Better off cutting a head off the old bolts use two screwed in fist slide the manifold on put two bolts in remove the two headless bolts and put the new bolts in their place that way u don’t crush your plugs
Thanks, Brett, great video. Q. Do you use never- seize or something on the threads before putting them in . If so why not? I am about to take on my 454 7.4 merc s your vids have been most helpful. Thanks mate, from Sydney Australia:) Al
I don't use anti-seize on steel into iron but I do use it with steel into aluminum (so on my cars that have aluminum heads, I do use anti-seize there - mainly with the spark plugs). I've never had a problem with dissimilar metal corrosion with steel-to-iron, so I haven't found a need to use it.
I have a question I have a heat exchanger. I was wondering how to drain coolant fluid. Can you tell me the procedure to refill coolant after I install new manifold and risers? Thank you
Storm Strike You have 4x blue drain plugs. 1 on each manifold and 1 on each side of block. I just bought 4x new plugs at 5 bucks each and replaced them wile replacing coolant. For a good flush I would just take the block plugs off as that drains the block around the pistons. Amazing how much crud is in their.
I haven't tried that. Usually I flush the system with fresh water after each use (feed fresh water to the water inlet on the drive while running the engine), which I hope is rinsing it of any salt. When I start seeing signs of corrosion, I just replace them.
I tend not to use loctite on engine fasteners. I find proper torque is sufficient to keep the bolts from backing out. As a matter of fact, when rebuilding an engine, I'll usually lubricate the threads of head bolts and main cap bolts to ensure I'm getting proper torque readings on the torque wrench. On an aluminum block engine, I'll add aluminized lubricant to the manifold bolts to reduce dissimilar metal corrosion that may cause difficulty in removing them later. Basically, I use loctite in places, but not on engine fasteners.
Not sure. The dry joint basically carries the water through the manifolds and risers in separate cast-in channels - and that system does appear to be fully contained within the manifolds and risers. The manifold-to-engine mating is the same, so it would suggest as long as you replace manifolds and risers that you can make that conversion. What I don't know is whether or not the hose connections and how water is fed into that system is compatible with wet joint systems.
Actually, I do remember they were stuck on the rusted riser part once - so much so that I used a screw driver to break the seal. Took a flat-bladed screw driver and a hammer and went around the circumference in various places driving the screw driver between the metal and rubber. I eventually got it to come loose and was able to re-use the rubber.
@@bretthusselbaugh1198 Yep already did that. I guess I will probably try to get the rubber off, and see what this metal stuff is doing. I may have to replace that in between part. : (
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My friend this is an exellent video for help us to change the reisers and manifolds....thank you so much.... Many many many greetings to you from Athens Greece.... !
Thank you!
Cut the heads off of 2 bolts or use a stud bolts. Screw studs at each end of the head and slide on gasket then manifold. Put in other bolts and then take the 2 studs out and replace with bolts. Studs hold all the weight while you start other bolts. Makes it easy
Just an FYI for everyone but all hoses should be double clamped. Good video that will save you thousands of dollars when doing 2 engines.
That was very very informative, I will be changing mine this winter . Thank you so very much. 😂
Thank you and you're welcome!
Excellent video Brett! For new to boating people like myself, its a very in depth, to the point tutorial! I LOVE the fact that you don't feel the need to talk ALL THE TIME!!! You only speak when passing on the information. Thanks and keep up the great work!!
Thanks Tom!
7:32 you state those are 9/16 inch bolts. Know what you getting at but those are 3/8. Goes by diameter size of the threaded portion of the bolt not the size of the bolt head.
Got another tip for ya. In my tool box I made guide bolts. Used a paint marker so I know which ones are 3/8, 5/16, 11 mm, 14 mm, etc. Bought hardened grader bolts of different sizes then I cut the heads off. Beveled the edges with a bench grinder. Then used my die grinder to create a slot big enough for a flat tip screw driver to fit. I screw these in hand tight to guide gaskets and parts like the manifold on. Get a couple bolts started then remove the guide bolts by hand or screw driver. Makes life so much easier. Makes installing transmissions easier. Splitting tractors to replace clutch packs you name it.
i know its been a long time, but thats a great idea.
Quick tip. Get two 6” long 3/8” bolts, cut off the heads, then thread them into the outer holes. Now slide the gasket and manifold on. Secure the inner bolts and replace the outer bolts. Dont rest 50# manifold on the spark plugs. They. Are porcelain not able to support weight.
Great tip. Thanks!
Brett, Thanks for this video. I'm confident I can do the exhaust and manifolds after watching your video. Great Video!
Thanks. Excellent video! It sure provides the confidence to attempt this job and save yourself a heap of money!
Very nice video! Thanks for posting it.
Very helpful, Thanks!
Nice detailed video
Hi , on your riser gaskets you should be applying only on the orange rings seal prep. ..A proper torke wrench is mandatory with specs as well .
Thank you so much sir!
Install studs on the outside holes in the head, slot the gasket bolt holes on the bottom side for the new studs and slip the manifold on the two studs. Then install gasket from the top and install the remaining 2 bolts. Easy.
Great video. I have an older style mercruiser. I'm trying to remove the studs. There's just removable nuts on the top.
When purchasing manifolds and risers the qualty goes up like this Mercury > BARR > GLM. Its worth it to pay more IMHO. BARR worked for me but not coated like Merc's so won't last as long but they worked just need to use more sealant than what is show in this video. I did have to redon my starboard one riser to manifold gasket once. I also had to paint my BARRS as the paint quality wasn't as thick as OEM Merc's. Next time, in like 5-7 years I would pay the extra for the Merc's.
Thank you
well done ..
Thanks 👍
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your well thought and executed installation tips. I have not tackled this kind of job yet on an I/O, but I will certainly refer to this video when I have to face replacement of manifolds and risers. A few questions for you if you are still checking your videos for comments or questions on a regular basis:
1. The mounting bolts for the manifolds and the risers look like some kind of oxidized coated alloy steel. That said, would it not be a good idea to put some anti-seize on them that can handle high temps associated with exhaust gases?
2. Wouldn't it be relatively easy to take off your engine hatch cover/hood to do that job? I did a lot of deep-in-the-bilge work on an I/O boat once, and it made a world of difference as far as improved accessibility and comfort by taking the engine hatch cover off.......but I did have the luxury of working on the boat in a large shop where I did not have to worry about inclement weather soaking the engine.
Thank you! I am still checking.
great video gracias. the computer goes next to the riser, but risers get very hot sometimes, doesnt it damage the computer ????
Better off cutting a head off the old bolts use two screwed in fist slide the manifold on put two bolts in remove the two headless bolts and put the new bolts in their place that way u don’t crush your plugs
I am thankful I only have one engine.
Thanks, Brett, great video. Q. Do you use never- seize or something on the threads before putting them in . If so why not? I am about to take on my 454 7.4 merc s your vids have been most helpful. Thanks mate, from Sydney Australia:) Al
I don't use anti-seize on steel into iron but I do use it with steel into aluminum (so on my cars that have aluminum heads, I do use anti-seize there - mainly with the spark plugs). I've never had a problem with dissimilar metal corrosion with steel-to-iron, so I haven't found a need to use it.
I have a question I have a heat exchanger. I was wondering how to drain coolant fluid. Can you tell me the procedure to refill coolant after I install new manifold and risers? Thank you
Storm Strike You have 4x blue drain plugs. 1 on each manifold and 1 on each side of block. I just bought 4x new plugs at 5 bucks each and replaced them wile replacing coolant. For a good flush I would just take the block plugs off as that drains the block around the pistons. Amazing how much crud is in their.
Any idea how to get the two manifold plugs out of top. To rinse out manifold. Mine are just a two square fittings.
I haven't tried that. Usually I flush the system with fresh water after each use (feed fresh water to the water inlet on the drive while running the engine), which I hope is rinsing it of any salt. When I start seeing signs of corrosion, I just replace them.
Do you use any Loctite an the Manifolds and elbows bolts?
I tend not to use loctite on engine fasteners. I find proper torque is sufficient to keep the bolts from backing out. As a matter of fact, when rebuilding an engine, I'll usually lubricate the threads of head bolts and main cap bolts to ensure I'm getting proper torque readings on the torque wrench. On an aluminum block engine, I'll add aluminized lubricant to the manifold bolts to reduce dissimilar metal corrosion that may cause difficulty in removing them later. Basically, I use loctite in places, but not on engine fasteners.
Hey Brett what did you pay for the manifold kit ?
This guy won't reply. Im trying to install my own. Do you have any recommendations on how to drain the coolant and refill coolant after i install?
Can a wet joint be converted to a dry joint?
Not sure. The dry joint basically carries the water through the manifolds and risers in separate cast-in channels - and that system does appear to be fully contained within the manifolds and risers. The manifold-to-engine mating is the same, so it would suggest as long as you replace manifolds and risers that you can make that conversion. What I don't know is whether or not the hose connections and how water is fed into that system is compatible with wet joint systems.
You forgot the exhaust flippers on the pipes
Actually my boat doesn't have those flappers.
I can;t seem to get the boot off the rust elbow. Anybody have any ideas?
Mine are always stuck, but I twist until they break loose. I use the elbow to twist.
@@bretthusselbaugh1198 I been trying to twist and turn...but it's stuck.
Actually, I do remember they were stuck on the rusted riser part once - so much so that I used a screw driver to break the seal. Took a flat-bladed screw driver and a hammer and went around the circumference in various places driving the screw driver between the metal and rubber. I eventually got it to come loose and was able to re-use the rubber.
@@bretthusselbaugh1198 Yep already did that. I guess I will probably try to get the rubber off, and see what this metal stuff is doing. I may have to replace that in between part. : (
Thanks for post Brett. Out of curiousity, did you put any Permatex or sealant on the manifold prior to install? Thanks
I did not use any Permatex or any other sealant. Those gaskets sealed fine (I did make sure the surface were wire-brushed and perfectly clean.)
@@bretthusselbaugh1198 Awesome! Thanks for taking time to reply