SW Emerald is awesome paint. Effortless to work with regardless of whether brushing, rolling, or spraying. Has excellent abrasion resistance, and cleans up extremely well. It is a bit expensive, but considering the ease of application and durability, it's worth it.
haa, 10 years ago I thought Emerald latex smelled like Playdough, You can tell the difference from the usual Ammonia, Acrylic smell. That's how you can tell It's going to be good. Even though it was $70 a gallon at the time it was the most forgiving trim paint to use I ever used as an 18-year painter at that time. (GETTING READY TO USE THE URETHANE FOR THE FIRST TIME AFTER PAINTING HUNDREDS OF GALLONS OF Ben Moore ADVANCE. Can't Wait..!
I’ve been a contractor for 30 years and this paint is amazing, although when using the deep and ultra deep bases the cure time is three days. So when painting cabinet doors let them cure for two days at least before you try and re-hang the doors or you will imprint them.
Actually if you look up the Product Data sheet online it will state the product will continue to cure and harden for 30 days. So if you do paint your cabinets and rehang them in 2 days, the product will still be soft and prone to scratches/scuffs.
Thank you sir for the lights sheen test..! (I've always veered from Sherwin-Williams paints, besides industrials, because they have the worst Sheens on planet Earth.) If you want eggshell finish, buy their semi-gloss paint..! lol)
You are correct Sir. This stuff is awesome! For starters it goes on like oil (smooth, with a good working time to keep a wet edge). It lays out like oil. Yet is water clean up!!! Love it. As for sheen, painted a friends upper cabinets in his 90's mobile home, to match the new "Diamond" cabinets from Lowe's that we put in for the lowers. Small nap roller and a good brush, cannot tell the difference between the finishes. When painting trim, I use the Purdy "Clear Cut Elite". When done, I have to look hard to find any brush marks. The price is really of no point to me, because the coverage is so good, a can last as much as 2 cans of other stuff. Awesome review Sir, thanks for sharing. I can only recommend it to so many people myself.
Just wait till they have sells my local Sherwin-Williams always has sells. I just got it for $70 and it is totally worth the money. I sprayed two coats on a old hope chest that we turned into a toy box and it lays flat as glass if you have your sprayer tuned in right
I'm using it right now all through a house doors and trim , it's good stuff ..... I wouldn't call it "super hard" but it's durable .... Oils are much harder in the end ...... But Emerald is a good choice for "water clean up" trim paint and I've used it on kitchen cabs , worked great , very happy customer .... brushed the whole thing , came out quite nice , minimal brush marks
The product isn't fully cured until 30 days. Even though it states water cleanup, once the product has dried it can only be cleaned with solvent based cleaner such as mineral spirits or paint thinner
@@tiffanyheilman6119 I know ..... I'm a painter ..... Emerald DOES NOT cure as hard as oil based paints , no water clean up paint does (Breakthrough gets pretty close) but none are "hard as oils" .... They are all "close" but no cigar .... Oils dry hardest ... period , and PS - Mineral Spirits IS "Paint Thinner" ... and you cannot clean up ANY QUALITY PAINT "with water" after it cures ..... Have you never seen paint drips on a driveway ??? exterior latex house paint drips ??? Try cleaning that with water , ALL PAINTS by design resist water , that's their JOB , and paint spatters on driveways have lasted through dozens of thunderstorms !!! ie - water ... in fact , so has the whole house ..... I'm telling you right now , Emerald doesn't quite dry as hard as oils , period end of story
I just tried Sherwin-Williams Emerald and I'm very impressed with it. I had to repaint a slew of kitchen cabinets. They were all disassembled, sanded down and primed with Sherwin-Williams shellac primer. The next day they were all sanded smooth and top-coated with two coats of emerald. We used Cameo White over a dark reddish brown. There was an ever so slight amount of bleed through the shellac primer. As only one coat of primer was used, there were places that sanded through slightly and exposed the brown underneath. I sanded with 240 Grit by hand and a palm sander. The first thing I noticed was the durability and coverage of their shellac primer. It also sanded very easy without balling up. Next came the first coat of emerald. I used a high-quality brush and quality foam weenie rollers to apply it. It went on very smooth, but you must move pretty quick if it's warm. It levels out pretty good but I did have some slight brush marks and roller marks. They most likely would have never been noticeable to anybody, but I wanted these cabinets to look first-rate. I went over the doors and sanded only where needed. I was amazed that the emerald had hardened up as much as it did overnight. The paint sanded very well, with no balling at all. I blew off and tack-raged everything and applied the second coat. After some close examination I found no abnormalities in the finish whatsoever. The next day everything was drilled for handles and pulls and reassembled. This was a very large kitchen with separate butler's pantry, and was done in quadrants. There was absolutely no difference in the finish quality, sheen or color appearance in each area as it was completed. As far as the price of this material, it goes on sale often, and ends up only being a few dollars higher than big store brands. Plus, when you include the color holdout and coverage, it's possible that in the long run, it's the same cost or cheaper than the competition. Especially when you take into account the amount of labor and time you save. The only thing I may do different. If I apply this material when the temperature is above 85 or 90 degrees Fahrenheit I will add a small amount of floetrol to slow it down a little.
Would it be suitable for original floors in a 125+ year old home? The floor boards are wide and currently painted a chocolate brown, which in somewhat worn. It's probably oil paint. Best way to prep it? Thank you!
I'm gonna try it. 2 coats spraying via magnum x5 with 315 tip on doors/drawers after 2 coats extreme bond primer. Roll and tip same coating numbers on mounted cabinets in the kitchen proper. First time trying any of this.
I am a painter, I will be using sw emerald urethane semi gloss on my own cabinets. I will be sanding everything to bare wood, oil base priming and urethane. I have heard good and bad reviews . So I will post an edited review after a couple of months. The color I'm using is magic black.
I have used Emerald and it is very good paint. It levels well and does have a hard finish, but in all fairness to Benjamin Moore you can’t compare it to Benjamin Moore Regal. It’s not apples to apples. It’s a different paint. It’s not a urethane and the cost of it is way less compared to $90.00. Regal is mainly designed for walls. The biggest negative of emerald for us is the redcoat time is extremely long thats why it levels well. If you have time and you are brushing and rolling your cabinets it might be ok. The re coat time is 4hrs at 77 degrees. If you have the time that’s great but if your a contractor that needs to get a second coat quickly it’s not cost effective. If you are spraying cabinets, doors or trim and you want to be able to sand between coats within 45 minutes try Vista Polytec Interior. The finish is equivalent to a Precat Lacqer but water clean up. If your in California I can give you the Representatives info.
100 % agree with your review. It's my go to paint now. And it seems popular since i've been down the SW store to buy a G and they were out both times ha ha. One question I have is, I just put on 2 coats of BIN 30 followed by one coat of Urethane Enamel on some bathroom vanity doors, all in white, all HVLP sprayed. It looks amazing. I almost feel like that's it, and I don't need another coat. Should go for another coat for durability or should I be lazy?
Is there any highly recommended primer I can use other than oil based? My husband is worried about using it in his sprayer. We will be painting over 1950's wood that probably has an oil based varnish. I've read that I can use Bin Primer but it makes the paint chip? Appreciate any help.
Envirolak makes a great waterborne primer; which they now have a crosslinker you can add to it and it performs just as well as the oil or shellac based products.
It smells like Powerbait trout bait in my opinion. It covers your walls way better than Powerbait, highly do not recommend using trout bait for your doors and trim.
I don't know. It depends on the surface you are using liquid sandpaper on. In most cases that would be fine, however if your surface is going to touched a lot it is better to prime.
@@Davidklappenberger Actually, the first reply was correct. Sorry for the confusion, it was Horseradish a PPG color. It is a very nice color that works well with midtone and deep base colors.
They are both very durable, washable, easy to use, and are very good at self-leveling. The biggest difference is the dry time between coats with Advance is a minimum of 8 hrs but 24 much safer. Recoating with Advance too soon can make the paint take 2 months to fully cure. Advance is targeted to be Ben Moores cabinet paint. The SW Urethane is much more versatile being both interior and exterior paint. The Emerald can be recoated in 4 hours.
@@lync8195 I spray cabinets for a living. BM Advance is not a great paint for anything. Of the two I would go with the Emerald Urethane. If for some reason you are set on using BM i'd suggest Scuff X. The problem with Advance when applying with rollers/brushes is its workability if conditions are not ideal. My go to for cabinets when not lacquer is Emerald urethane. Sure its near 2x as much $$$ wise but Sherwin Williams always have some 20-30% sale going on. But cabinets are like cars. You don't want to paint it every year as color trends change. I'd Also avoid going with a "colorful" trend because the jones did it. Stick with what works and always will work with wall color trends. I cannot say I am sick of iron ore or similar colors as I am the mid to light greys that are the trend now lol.
@@willmurphy6996 I appreciate the follow up. Wish I had this info sooner. I picked Advance bc it’s mainly for cabinets and the SW paint is a multi use paint. I’m having a horrible time with the fact that the first paint I got was a bad batch and it wasn’t leveling out as it should and left an orange peel look to my cabinets and I can still see that thru my BM paint despite sanding. I’ve since purchased a sprayer and plan to spray the doors but I’m going to still paint the faces of the cabinets with a high density roller. I’m thinking that I’ll have to use a paint stripper to remove the initial paint and start over on the first set I painted which is such a pain to think of! What a project this has become. Thanks for the info! Wish I had a painter on speed dial to guide me thru this process. I love the satisfaction with doing this myself however it’s also a learn as you go when you’re doing it for the first time. Thanks again!!
@@lync8195 Good day Lyn. Was the first lot of paint (the bad batch) the first coating over the cabinets since the original coating? Was it Advance? If it was Advance that probably wasn't a bad batch. Its a rather common occurrence with Advance and why i do not use it. I have no Idea why but the atmospheric conditions seems to play a huge roll in how it performs over pretty much even cheap box store paints. Im talking just a couple degrees and it drys the surface to fast which allows the undry fluid underneath to quilt (sag) A couple percentage in humidity causes it to stay wet to long and causes the same issue. Orange peel may be caused by a few factors from not being mixed well enough. Even when in the commercial shakers they dont get the binders etc from the skin of the can. If to much of it is not mixed into the rest of the solution, it will perform badly. It could be applied to thick and again the surface dried before it had a chance to level off. Choice of applicator. If rolling Id recommend a mohair 1/8th nap. Velor works well too but I never used one when using advance as I haven't used advance but a few mistaken times. Now back to the stripping. If the only paint on these cabinets is what you applied yourself don't fret lol. Go get some "scotch brite" pads. Use green to scuff up the surface you are to apply your new coating to. Prime with a sanding surfacer primer such as Zinsser BIN or a cheaper alternative Zinsser Bullseye 1.2.3. Both are very great big box store products. Still there will be a a fair bit of sanding dependant on how bad the orange peeling is. I,d apply 2 coats to start then sand. Use 120 to start and work up to at least 320 before laying down any paint. Use maroon scotch brite pads in the areas difficult to use sand paper. When sanding the flat surfaces such as the cabinet cases drawer fronts and doors. Use a flat stiff sanding block. I made my own from maple plywood because well im cheap and the guys keep losing ones I purchase lol. You will see in the texture when you have your primer flat and ready for painting. Spraying....Spray a ground (bond) coat. This coat will feel like sand paper when dry. What this does is create a surface with more surface area for the next coat to bond to on a very fine level. Kind of acts like velcro. The second coat should be applied thick enough to bury that ground coat but just barely. Then when thats dry apply your top coat. I use stripper often. Well not often but enough to know its a bigger pain in the ass than sanding and if you happen to spill a drop and miss cleaning it up quickly then you add on another project lol. No idea how I know that lol.
Sorry for the delay. Yes, you can mix two sheens together as long as they are the same type of paint. For example, waterborne satin finish and semi-gloss, or both are acrylics, or oil paints
If you were painting your kitchen cabinets, would you use SW Emerald or BM Advance? Also, would you recommend spraying or brush/rolling (assuming you don't have a sprayer)?
Try Pro Classic Waterborne Hybrid for a smell test ..... That one is massive sewer smell , horrid smell , but it's fine after you apply it and it dries a day , but if you sniff the open can , oh man , that stuff is stanky !!!!!! THEE WORST .... stuff works well though
At that price it's a better option but Baer Dynasty is better and at $60 a gal... SW is overrated and overpriced, all painters should know that much... That ovation lowes crap is pathetic...
In your video entitled "what is the best kitchen cabinet paint" your review of Emerald wasn't good. As a matter of fact you said it was the weakest of all the paints you were demonstrating. What's up with that?
Baer Dynasty is cheaper and better paint... Emerald is okay but just because you spend the most don't vmake it the best... Baer paints are hands down a subs best friend, Emerald will have you bidding outrageous...
It does have the dullest sheen . Cashmere medium Luster has the highest, and ProClassic Semi-gloss. There is very little difference between the rest of SW's semi-gloss.
Yes they seem the same in many ways but Emerald is an Acrylic/ Urethane paint and Advance in waterborne paint. Chemically, speaking they have real differences.
it smells like sewer ..... faintly .... NOT a big deal , but if you stick your nose close to the can , it smells like sewer with a hint of Eucalyptus ..... Painting is fine , I wouldn't make candles out of it
SW Emerald is awesome paint. Effortless to work with regardless of whether brushing, rolling, or spraying. Has excellent abrasion resistance, and cleans up extremely well. It is a bit expensive, but considering the ease of application and durability, it's worth it.
Thanks for sharing
haa, 10 years ago I thought Emerald latex smelled like Playdough, You can tell the difference from the usual Ammonia, Acrylic smell. That's how you can tell It's going to be good. Even though it was $70 a gallon at the time it was the most forgiving trim paint to use I ever used as an 18-year painter at that time.
(GETTING READY TO USE THE URETHANE FOR THE FIRST TIME AFTER PAINTING HUNDREDS OF GALLONS OF Ben Moore ADVANCE. Can't Wait..!
I’ve been a contractor for 30 years and this paint is amazing, although when using the deep and ultra deep bases the cure time is three days.
So when painting cabinet doors let them cure for two days at least before you try and re-hang the doors or you will imprint them.
Actually if you look up the Product Data sheet online it will state the product will continue to cure and harden for 30 days.
So if you do paint your cabinets and rehang them in 2 days, the product will still be soft and prone to scratches/scuffs.
Thank you sir for the lights sheen test..!
(I've always veered from Sherwin-Williams paints, besides industrials, because they have the worst Sheens on planet Earth.)
If you want eggshell finish, buy their semi-gloss paint..! lol)
Has very low odor, hardly any. Levels itself. Hard finish. Amazing!!
You are correct Sir. This stuff is awesome! For starters it goes on like oil (smooth, with a good working time to keep a wet edge). It lays out like oil. Yet is water clean up!!! Love it. As for sheen, painted a friends upper cabinets in his 90's mobile home, to match the new "Diamond" cabinets from Lowe's that we put in for the lowers. Small nap roller and a good brush, cannot tell the difference between the finishes. When painting trim, I use the Purdy "Clear Cut Elite". When done, I have to look hard to find any brush marks. The price is really of no point to me, because the coverage is so good, a can last as much as 2 cans of other stuff. Awesome review Sir, thanks for sharing. I can only recommend it to so many people myself.
This is the exact thing I needed to see at just the right time. Thanks for the info!
Just wait till they have sells my local Sherwin-Williams always has sells. I just got it for $70 and it is totally worth the money. I sprayed two coats on a old hope chest that we turned into a toy box and it lays flat as glass if you have your sprayer tuned in right
I'm using it right now all through a house doors and trim , it's good stuff ..... I wouldn't call it "super hard" but it's durable .... Oils are much harder in the end ...... But Emerald is a good choice for "water clean up" trim paint and I've used it on kitchen cabs , worked great , very happy customer .... brushed the whole thing , came out quite nice , minimal brush marks
The product isn't fully cured until 30 days. Even though it states water cleanup, once the product has dried it can only be cleaned with solvent based cleaner such as mineral spirits or paint thinner
@@tiffanyheilman6119 I know ..... I'm a painter ..... Emerald DOES NOT cure as hard as oil based paints , no water clean up paint does (Breakthrough gets pretty close) but none are "hard as oils" .... They are all "close" but no cigar .... Oils dry hardest ... period , and PS - Mineral Spirits IS "Paint Thinner" ... and you cannot clean up ANY QUALITY PAINT "with water" after it cures ..... Have you never seen paint drips on a driveway ??? exterior latex house paint drips ??? Try cleaning that with water , ALL PAINTS by design resist water , that's their JOB , and paint spatters on driveways have lasted through dozens of thunderstorms !!! ie - water ... in fact , so has the whole house ..... I'm telling you right now , Emerald doesn't quite dry as hard as oils , period end of story
I just tried Sherwin-Williams Emerald and I'm very impressed with it. I had to repaint a slew of kitchen cabinets. They were all disassembled, sanded down and primed with Sherwin-Williams shellac primer. The next day they were all sanded smooth and top-coated with two coats of emerald. We used Cameo White over a dark reddish brown. There was an ever so slight amount of bleed through the shellac primer. As only one coat of primer was used, there were places that sanded through slightly and exposed the brown underneath. I sanded with 240 Grit by hand and a palm sander. The first thing I noticed was the durability and coverage of their shellac primer. It also sanded very easy without balling up. Next came the first coat of emerald. I used a high-quality brush and quality foam weenie rollers to apply it. It went on very smooth, but you must move pretty quick if it's warm. It levels out pretty good but I did have some slight brush marks and roller marks. They most likely would have never been noticeable to anybody, but I wanted these cabinets to look first-rate. I went over the doors and sanded only where needed. I was amazed that the emerald had hardened up as much as it did overnight. The paint sanded very well, with no balling at all. I blew off and tack-raged everything and applied the second coat. After some close examination I found no abnormalities in the finish whatsoever. The next day everything was drilled for handles and pulls and reassembled.
This was a very large kitchen with separate butler's pantry, and was done in quadrants. There was absolutely no difference in the finish quality, sheen or color appearance in each area as it was completed.
As far as the price of this material, it goes on sale often, and ends up only being a few dollars higher than big store brands. Plus, when you include the color holdout and coverage, it's possible that in the long run, it's the same cost or cheaper than the competition. Especially when you take into account the amount of labor and time you save.
The only thing I may do different. If I apply this material when the temperature is above 85 or 90 degrees Fahrenheit I will add a small amount of floetrol to slow it down a little.
^ Great review!
Is there a risk for white paint to eventually yellow like oil paint does?
Thank you
That's a great question. Only alkyd "oil" paints turn yellow. Waterborne, acrylics, latex paints will not turn yellow.
I haven't had great luck outdoors - too hard, the movement cracks it. I only use it indoors
Would it be suitable for original floors in a 125+ year old home?
The floor boards are wide and currently painted a chocolate brown, which in somewhat worn. It's probably oil paint.
Best way to prep it?
Thank you!
I'm gonna try it. 2 coats spraying via magnum x5 with 315 tip on doors/drawers after 2 coats extreme bond primer. Roll and tip same coating numbers on mounted cabinets in the kitchen proper. First time trying any of this.
Great. Just make sure you sand in between coats with 220 or finer.
I am a painter, I will be using sw emerald urethane semi gloss on my own cabinets. I will be sanding everything to bare wood, oil base priming and urethane. I have heard good and bad reviews . So I will post an edited review after a couple of months. The color I'm using is magic black.
Great! I look forward to hearing your results!
I have used Emerald and it is very good paint. It levels well and does have a hard finish, but in all fairness to Benjamin Moore you can’t compare it to Benjamin Moore Regal. It’s not apples to apples. It’s a different paint. It’s not a urethane and the cost of it is way less compared to $90.00. Regal is mainly designed for walls. The biggest negative of emerald for us is the redcoat time is extremely long thats why it levels well. If you have time and you are brushing and rolling your cabinets it might be ok. The re coat time is 4hrs at 77 degrees. If you have the time that’s great but if your a contractor that needs to get a second coat quickly it’s not cost effective. If you are spraying cabinets, doors or trim and you want to be able to sand between coats within 45 minutes try Vista Polytec Interior. The finish is equivalent to a Precat Lacqer but water clean up. If your in California I can give you the Representatives info.
Thanks for the info. All good stuff
At 2:23 he took a break for a joint😆🤣
100 % agree with your review. It's my go to paint now. And it seems popular since i've been down the SW store to buy a G and they were out both times ha ha. One question I have is, I just put on 2 coats of BIN 30 followed by one coat of Urethane Enamel on some bathroom vanity doors, all in white, all HVLP sprayed. It looks amazing. I almost feel like that's it, and I don't need another coat. Should go for another coat for durability or should I be lazy?
Your right, two coats give added washability and durability. But I am sure you could clean it many times without seeing any burnishing. Your call.
Is it around the same sheen as the Valspar Cabinet and Furniture semigloss paint?
yes
Is there any highly recommended primer I can use other than oil based? My husband is worried about using it in his sprayer. We will be painting over 1950's wood that probably has an oil based varnish. I've read that I can use Bin Primer but it makes the paint chip? Appreciate any help.
Stix is a great latex primer so is Extreme Bond from SW
Envirolak makes a great waterborne primer; which they now have a crosslinker you can add to it and it performs just as well as the oil or shellac based products.
Best water clean up primer - th-cam.com/video/ncjXj8LmiYg/w-d-xo.html&pp=sAQA
It smells like Powerbait trout bait in my opinion.
It covers your walls way better than Powerbait, highly do not recommend using trout bait for your doors and trim.
Can this go on cabinets previously painted with oil paint without using a primer?
Yes, I applied Emerald Urethane over oil gloss paint and it did not scratch off. However, I would recommend cleaning and sanding.
Why are there so many brush marks on everything ? Was the previous paint job horrible ? If you're not spraying, use a mini sleeve
What's a mini sleeve?
Does it require a primer if the surface is sanded with liquid sander?
I don't know. It depends on the surface you are using liquid sandpaper on. In most cases that would be fine, however if your surface is going to touched a lot it is better to prime.
This is the best thorough review I've found with these products. I'm excited to try it! Can you tell me what shade of white you used?
It is a PPG color called Horseradish. Thanks for the compliments, that means alot!
Just straight white
@@Davidklappenberger Actually, the first reply was correct. Sorry for the confusion, it was Horseradish a PPG color. It is a very nice color that works well with midtone and deep base colors.
Thanks for the nice comments. Straight white is the color.
How do you buy this for $60 as you said in the video?
SW has a couples sales where everything is 30% off. In my area, Maryland, it is going on right now.
@@klappenbergersonpaintingha2933 I'll check to see what's going on here in VA. Thanks.
How would you say this paint compares to Benjamin Moore Advance??
They are both very durable, washable, easy to use, and are very good at self-leveling. The biggest difference is the dry time between coats with Advance is a minimum of 8 hrs but 24 much safer. Recoating with Advance too soon can make the paint take 2 months to fully cure. Advance is targeted to be Ben Moores cabinet paint. The SW Urethane is much more versatile being both interior and exterior paint. The Emerald can be recoated in 4 hours.
@@klappenbergersonpaintingha2933 Thanks for your input on the comparison. I have decided on the BM Advance since this is for my kitchen cabinets.
@@lync8195 I spray cabinets for a living. BM Advance is not a great paint for anything. Of the two I would go with the Emerald Urethane. If for some reason you are set on using BM i'd suggest Scuff X. The problem with Advance when applying with rollers/brushes is its workability if conditions are not ideal. My go to for cabinets when not lacquer is Emerald urethane. Sure its near 2x as much $$$ wise but Sherwin Williams always have some 20-30% sale going on. But cabinets are like cars. You don't want to paint it every year as color trends change. I'd Also avoid going with a "colorful" trend because the jones did it. Stick with what works and always will work with wall color trends. I cannot say I am sick of iron ore or similar colors as I am the mid to light greys that are the trend now lol.
@@willmurphy6996 I appreciate the follow up. Wish I had this info sooner. I picked Advance bc it’s mainly for cabinets and the SW paint is a multi use paint. I’m having a horrible time with the fact that the first paint I got was a bad batch and it wasn’t leveling out as it should and left an orange peel look to my cabinets and I can still see that thru my BM paint despite sanding. I’ve since purchased a sprayer and plan to spray the doors but I’m going to still paint the faces of the cabinets with a high density roller. I’m thinking that I’ll have to use a paint stripper to remove the initial paint and start over on the first set I painted which is such a pain to think of! What a project this has become. Thanks for the info! Wish I had a painter on speed dial to guide me thru this process. I love the satisfaction with doing this myself however it’s also a learn as you go when you’re doing it for the first time. Thanks again!!
@@lync8195 Good day Lyn. Was the first lot of paint (the bad batch) the first coating over the cabinets since the original coating? Was it Advance? If it was Advance that probably wasn't a bad batch. Its a rather common occurrence with Advance and why i do not use it. I have no Idea why but the atmospheric conditions seems to play a huge roll in how it performs over pretty much even cheap box store paints. Im talking just a couple degrees and it drys the surface to fast which allows the undry fluid underneath to quilt (sag) A couple percentage in humidity causes it to stay wet to long and causes the same issue.
Orange peel may be caused by a few factors from not being mixed well enough. Even when in the commercial shakers they dont get the binders etc from the skin of the can. If to much of it is not mixed into the rest of the solution, it will perform badly. It could be applied to thick and again the surface dried before it had a chance to level off. Choice of applicator. If rolling Id recommend a mohair 1/8th nap. Velor works well too but I never used one when using advance as I haven't used advance but a few mistaken times.
Now back to the stripping. If the only paint on these cabinets is what you applied yourself don't fret lol. Go get some "scotch brite" pads. Use green to scuff up the surface you are to apply your new coating to. Prime with a sanding surfacer primer such as Zinsser BIN or a cheaper alternative Zinsser Bullseye 1.2.3. Both are very great big box store products. Still there will be a a fair bit of sanding dependant on how bad the orange peeling is. I,d apply 2 coats to start then sand. Use 120 to start and work up to at least 320 before laying down any paint. Use maroon scotch brite pads in the areas difficult to use sand paper. When sanding the flat surfaces such as the cabinet cases drawer fronts and doors. Use a flat stiff sanding block. I made my own from maple plywood because well im cheap and the guys keep losing ones I purchase lol. You will see in the texture when you have your primer flat and ready for painting.
Spraying....Spray a ground (bond) coat. This coat will feel like sand paper when dry. What this does is create a surface with more surface area for the next coat to bond to on a very fine level. Kind of acts like velcro. The second coat should be applied thick enough to bury that ground coat but just barely. Then when thats dry apply your top coat.
I use stripper often. Well not often but enough to know its a bigger pain in the ass than sanding and if you happen to spill a drop and miss cleaning it up quickly then you add on another project lol. No idea how I know that lol.
Marijuana scented paint. So that’s why the trim work looks so good!
can i mix the satin and semi gloss to get a finish in between the two? Thanks
Sorry for the delay. Yes, you can mix two sheens together as long as they are the same type of paint. For example, waterborne satin finish and semi-gloss, or both are acrylics, or oil paints
If you mix sheens, I'd be sure to make note of how much of each you combined in order to re create the sheen for future touch ups :)
If you were painting your kitchen cabinets, would you use SW Emerald or BM Advance? Also, would you recommend spraying or brush/rolling (assuming you don't have a sprayer)?
I would use Advance, but you have to allow 16 hours between the finish coats. Brush over rolling. Please use a professional paint brush like Woster.
Clean with degreaser, scuff sand with 150 grit sandpaper, prime with shellac, apply two finish coats of Advance
The advance dry time is horrible. Go with bm command satin. You will not be disappointed
amazing product.
Try Pro Classic Waterborne Hybrid for a smell test ..... That one is massive sewer smell , horrid smell , but it's fine after you apply it and it dries a day , but if you sniff the open can , oh man , that stuff is stanky !!!!!! THEE WORST .... stuff works well though
I can use bin primer with this paint
Yes you can use any Bin primer.
Just paid $108 per gallon, and that was with a discount. Great paint though.
I get it for 56.00 and I paint cabinets. I rate it's value a 10!
That's a great price. I try to avoid using contractor prices because DIY people just don't have that opportunity.
I get for 46 😎
It does not hold up it’s a sub grade cabinet paint. Kem Aqua plus lacquer much better option.
BM Advance is better, and substantially cheaper.
At that price it's a better option but Baer Dynasty is better and at $60 a gal...
SW is overrated and overpriced, all painters should know that much... That ovation lowes crap is pathetic...
In your video entitled "what is the best kitchen cabinet paint" your review of Emerald wasn't good. As a matter of fact you said it was the weakest of all the paints you were demonstrating. What's up with that?
Baer Dynasty is cheaper and better paint... Emerald is okay but just because you spend the most don't vmake it the best... Baer paints are hands down a subs best friend, Emerald will have you bidding outrageous...
Sweet
The satin sheen is very dull. Very little sheen. Emerald SG is more like most other products satin.
It does have the dullest sheen . Cashmere medium Luster has the highest, and ProClassic Semi-gloss. There is very little difference between the rest of SW's semi-gloss.
Emerald Urethane is a knockoff of Benjamin Moore Advance, but more expensive. Even with contractor discounts, BM Advance is $10/gal cheaper.
Yes they seem the same in many ways but Emerald is an Acrylic/ Urethane paint and Advance in waterborne paint. Chemically, speaking they have real differences.
Dry time for Advance is 16 hours to sand and recoat. Time is money. Emerald Urethane is 10x harder. Much better when we refinish cabinets.
it smells like sewer ..... faintly .... NOT a big deal , but if you stick your nose close to the can , it smells like sewer with a hint of Eucalyptus ..... Painting is fine , I wouldn't make candles out of it
The worst paint I use in my life. Period. Avoid at any cost. The cure time is ridiculously long....30 days.!!
Way to glossy it looks terrible!