Use a Dremel to cut the fender clean from the chain guard this way you only have 2 bolts and a nut to take off instead of 5 as well as not having to go-to the other side to take off the 5th bolt for the fender. Afterwards you will want to buy a stand alone rear fender OEM so it has strength to stand alone compared to the severed fender from the chain guard. The severed fender only has 1 side that's structurally supported whereas the side that was connected to the chain guard used the chain guard as it's support
Dude that chain is super tight. I would loosen it to 1 inch travel. Forget what the manual says. You hit a bump with that tight your gonna shock your transmission.
I dont own this bike anymore but it never had a problem. 1" of slack on this bike is very floppy and you would feel surges of the chain slacking and tightening between shifts.
@@Echo4Yankee lol I'm 230 lbs. Its just the way its designed. Keep in mind it's not 5-7mm of slack its 5-7mm of distance between the chain and swingarm. If I had to guess the slack was close maybe 15mm or so.
I've watched several of these; your the first to explain that it must sit on the sprocket . Thanks.. Now it makes sense.
Use a Dremel to cut the fender clean from the chain guard this way you only have 2 bolts and a nut to take off instead of 5 as well as not having to go-to the other side to take off the 5th bolt for the fender.
Afterwards you will want to buy a stand alone rear fender OEM so it has strength to stand alone compared to the severed fender from the chain guard. The severed fender only has 1 side that's structurally supported whereas the side that was connected to the chain guard used the chain guard as it's support
The laser version is just $15 more expensive but a whole lot more precise. I love it
Thanks, I bought one but didn’t quite understand how to use it.
how do you know the rod is dead straight?
Great camera skills. Best video I’ve seen on this subject. Thank you.
Thank you!
The adjustment tool makes your swing arm marks redundant, that’s the idea of the tool because the marks are notoriously inaccurate. Boom boom.
So happy I discovered your channel. Keep up the quality content.
Thanks for the kind words.
Better explanation and demo than the Motion Pro video - well done.
Agree :)
where'd you get those sliders with the ktm logo?
You can find them on Amazon. Just check the pictures for ones that say KTM on them. I think one company CICMOD has them.
I use a caliper.
+- .002 inch
Thanks. Great explanation
Dude that chain is super tight. I would loosen it to 1 inch travel. Forget what the manual says. You hit a bump with that tight your gonna shock your transmission.
I dont own this bike anymore but it never had a problem. 1" of slack on this bike is very floppy and you would feel surges of the chain slacking and tightening between shifts.
You must be light or the KTM is super quality. I'm 6'3" 210 lbs. I would never ride with a chain that tight. Glad you never had a serious problem.
@@Echo4Yankee lol I'm 230 lbs. Its just the way its designed. Keep in mind it's not 5-7mm of slack its 5-7mm of distance between the chain and swingarm. If I had to guess the slack was close maybe 15mm or so.
Purchase a 'Profi line laser' instead, it's a 1000 times better.