I see the front doesn’t have the Twins lip anymore.Did it not last? That’s what worries me the fact that it’s fiberglass and it’s probably gonna crack within a month or so
Shouldn't you be torqing the bushing bolts down when the arm as at ride height angle? Looks like the way you did it you might be preloading the bushings which isn't good.
Ideally you would retorque on the alignment rack. You wouldn't achieve the correct angle in the air, so you would be best to do it on an alignment rack since the car can sit at it's static height.
It is the most valuble benefit for most, but it isn't the only benefit. In this case, the arms gain a bit of positive caster which helps improve stability. They also have either urethane or heim bushing ends that will improve driver feel and reduce flex at the mount. The ball joint is also greasable, whereas the stock is not.
So I have a 2015 Infiniti Q70L with the same 3.7 engine off that Nissan 370Z. I’m replacing the upper control arm on both driver and passenger side. I’m sticking with OEM upper control arms. Will I still need an alignment after performing the replacement?
I got a clunking noise coming from the front right suspension i wana say its the strut but am curious if i need to replace the whole thing or just get new shocks and bushings, anyone had this issue please me know guy much appreciated
To me, 13mm is quite strange choice for the adjustment inserts. Std. bolt heads and nuts on Nissan\Infiniti are 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 and, judging on the video, you have a space to use 14mm insert head instead of 13mm. Bringing in such inconsistencies to the suspension is definitely not what we, your clients, are looking for. Also putting a brake hose under stress like your mechanic did at 3:00 is not a good idea, this should be done before the ball-joint stud is removed. Editing should be improved: at 3:00 ball-joint stud is already removed, at 3:30 it is removed again😀 Finally, 4:11 shorter 14mm head and breaker bar should be used here to loosen the bolt, then a ratchet can be used. Good luck and thank you for the quality performance parts you do!
I see the front doesn’t have the Twins lip anymore.Did it not last? That’s what worries me the fact that it’s fiberglass and it’s probably gonna crack within a month or so
Hopefully they go on sale so I can get for next season
2:21 whats that black sandwich plate?
Do your products fit 2017 maxima...bolt straight on?
Shouldn't you be torqing the bushing bolts down when the arm as at ride height angle?
Looks like the way you did it you might be preloading the bushings which isn't good.
Ideally you would retorque on the alignment rack. You wouldn't achieve the correct angle in the air, so you would be best to do it on an alignment rack since the car can sit at it's static height.
they are poly bushings so it's fine
Is the only benefit with the adjustable FUCA, camber adjustment?
It is the most valuble benefit for most, but it isn't the only benefit. In this case, the arms gain a bit of positive caster which helps improve stability. They also have either urethane or heim bushing ends that will improve driver feel and reduce flex at the mount. The ball joint is also greasable, whereas the stock is not.
So I have a 2015 Infiniti Q70L with the same 3.7 engine off that Nissan 370Z. I’m replacing the upper control arm on both driver and passenger side. I’m sticking with OEM upper control arms. Will I still need an alignment after performing the replacement?
Yes
Are these safe to run on bagged cars ???
What are the specs on the wheels? 😍
I got a clunking noise coming from the front right suspension i wana say its the strut but am curious if i need to replace the whole thing or just get new shocks and bushings, anyone had this issue please me know guy much appreciated
Know for sure before you start spending unnecessary parts
Grease them every 5,000 miles? Wow.
Don’t get these mine creak like hell
Did you torque the bushings at the correct ride height? If you don’t have your control arm at the final ride height when torquing, they will creak.
To me, 13mm is quite strange choice for the adjustment inserts. Std. bolt heads and nuts on Nissan\Infiniti are 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 and, judging on the video, you have a space to use 14mm insert head instead of 13mm. Bringing in such inconsistencies to the suspension is definitely not what we, your clients, are looking for.
Also putting a brake hose under stress like your mechanic did at 3:00 is not a good idea, this should be done before the ball-joint stud is removed.
Editing should be improved: at 3:00 ball-joint stud is already removed, at 3:30 it is removed again😀
Finally, 4:11 shorter 14mm head and breaker bar should be used here to loosen the bolt, then a ratchet can be used.
Good luck and thank you for the quality performance parts you do!