11-16 Mustang 3.7 V6 Upper Intake Manifold *Detailed* Removal & Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2020
- How to remove and replace the upper intake plenum manifold on a 2011 to 2016 Mustang with the 3.7 V6
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Thank you so much! This gal did it in just over an hour . Your video was the only reason I felt confident enough to tackle it.
Man I appreciate this video so much. I got a quote to replace my plugs and it was $550 thought that was insane! Bought 6 spark plugs for $46 drove up to my dad’s house and we replaced them together over a couple beers and 2-3 hours. Super straight forward. The hardest part was popping those plastic clips off that were holding the hoses in place 😂
Thank you so much for this video! Today is was able to change the spark plugs on my 2012 Mustang with no issues at all thanks to this video and thanks to you! I also saved myself about $800 that the shop wanted to charge me for something that is so simple to do. Thank you so so much! and keep making such great content :)
Great video. I like how you show where all the parts were.I have worked on ambulances and it is always a safe bet to replace gaskets. Like you said in your video, If you get a leak, you'll wish you had replaced them.
This was very helpful as getting ready to change plugs in my F150 3.7 2014. We will watch again.
Thanks for your work on this video. Went from feeling nervous about this to very confident after watching. Cheers man!
Brotha, my brotha thank you thank you thank you for uploading this video. I just changed my spark plugs with the help of a friend and memorized each step from this video. You are A GODSEND!!!! I pray all your dreams and wishes come true, that you reach a million+++ in subscribers, and that you keep creating informative content. You and chrisfix have saved me a ton of money through the content you guys post. I appreciate you and keep up the amazing work💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾🍻
Appreciate the love!
thank you bro.... i did this perfectly thanks to you idk where you got the bolt pattern but damn its hard to find online, so glad i saved this video awhile back and so glad you keep it uploaded. thank you again so much! took me about 2 hours.. easy easy easy.
This is absolutelly superb!. You make it look so simple and definitivelly encourage me to try it asap. Thanks dude!!!
Bro if you were my neighbor I would buy you a twelve pack. You saved my ass. I’ve been scared to do this for years. Your video gave me the confidence to try it. It runs perfect. Thanks man. Keep up the good work. Keep them videos coming !
Saved me a lot of money on labor. Thank you for these videos.
Hello man, Just wanted to say thank you, I have always been afraid of working on the engine, especially splitting it in half, your video was the reason why I saved over $1500 doing this job myself. I watched your video a good few times and by the time Amazon delivered the parts I was a pro. I just finished the test drive and my mustang is back to normal and purring beautifully. I have a 2014 Mustang 3.7L V6, everything you said and showed was accurate, the only difference I had was that I had a stabilizer bar over the top of my engine due to being a convertible, however, everything else applied. Really loved the part about the torque sequence for tightening the upper manifold back on. Thanks again!
That's awesome, I love comments like this. Knowing what some shops charge to do this stuff really makes me want to open my own shop...
I have a stabilzer bar as well. When you took it off, did your front shocks/struts move, or does those other bolts keep the shock from moving.
@regis - I have taken those off of many cars (they are actually called a strut tower brace). If they use different bolts/nuts than the struts, then yes the struts are held in place by their own hardware. If they share the same hardware, then just replace the hardware once the brace is removed (and torque properly).
The function of the strut tower brace is to keep the car and struts from flexing around corners. They add them to the convertible because it is heavier and requires the extra bracing- they also add them to the more performance oriented models to improve the handling in corners over a base model.
@BuckeyeBallistics Thank you, I was wondering about this yesterday when I was looking under the hood. I'm going to change out my spark plugs soon.
He's a Godsend, brotha. I started working on my car about 2 years ago because I simply just don't trust mechanics and have been flirting with the idea of tuning up my car. I stumbled across this video maybe a year ago but never got around to changing them. Recently, I pulled up this video again and said eff it, I'm doing it. After I memorized the steps, it was a breeze and only cost me a 3/8 ratchet and 9/16 socket that fell down the sewer by accident 🤦🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️ but aye the jobs done.
I've been wondering how to get that off for bit ill def have to watch this a time or two to make sure i do this right myself thank you sir!!
Thanks for this. I'm going to try change out my plugs and seal gasket as well.
I agree w the 12 pack comment. You saved me hours right before I had to go to work. Thanks bro!
Thank you for sharing this. My 2012 Mustang V6 is in need of plugs and I was looking at the plenum and was wondering how big of a pain it would be. I have a Strut tower brace that gets in the way of the whole thing too.
Another outstanding video. I appreciate the attention to detail and explaining things as you go. Along with great video shots instead of having the camera 2 miles back or bouncing around like a gibbon where you can't focus on anything. Great job. :)
Yes sir. I remember all those types of videos before I started doing this, so I made sure to do mine right. Some people complain that mine are too long and that I talk too much- but many others like yourself appreciate all the information and tips. Thanks for the support, much appreciated!
Excellent. Just ordered new plugs and the gasket to do this. Thanks.
Excellent video. Clear and complete. I really appreciate the torque settings and order. Thank you. I am about to do a plug change and coolant flush on my 2013 Mustang (3.7l V6) and was wondering about how to properly remove and reinstall the intake. I'm not going to do a full flush just going to drain and refill the radiator. That should be sufficient.
Awsome video! Im impressed you did a lot of that with 1 hand!
For my 2017 3.7 Mustang, the service manual shows replacing the intake gasket. It also has a different torque sequence for the intake manifold bolts, with 3 and 7 being switched.
Sir you just saved me some money idk how much it be to take it to ford but I know it won’t be cheap. So thank you thank you 🙏 😭😭 thank you again
Thanks so much, I am changing my coils tomorrow.
Hey man, I wanted to give you HUGE thanks for this extremely detailed video! I started having major stumbling a couple of weekends ago and threw a code that said misfire in cylinder 6. Figured I might as well change all the plugs and coils if I was going to do one. I watched this video so many times while I waited for my parts to come in that when I started the process I felt like I'd already done it. The job went perfectly! For all the parts and the tools I bought (finally had a good excuse to buy a torque wrench!) I still spent a fraction of what it would have cost to have someone do it, and it only took a couple of hours. Really appreciated!
Excellent. If your stang ever needs further repairs down the road, I may have a video on whatever that may be as well when the time comes. I have a couple repair/replace videos already, and I'll be doing all new front and rear brakes/shocks/struts by spring if not sooner (already have parts). Check out the Mustang playlist on my channel for that and some hotrod videos 👍
Hey Jarrod did your vehicle ever show the code again? , I have the same code on my stand I replaced all spark plugs and coils but my car still sounds weird from the exhaust and it’s still has my engine light on.
@@FernandoMartinez-gc3yo So far no, still been good and smooth and no codes. Hope you get yours sorted!
@@biltrex what kind of plugs and coils did you use if you don’t mind me asking
Used your video for my F150. Thanks!
Well put together your well spoken and explain stuff very well keep up the good work bud
Thank you!
Hey, this was a great video, man. Thanks a lot!
Love this video. Have to replace the AC refrigerant line
Props to you man, I am very stingy with my Likes and Subs, but for your attention to detail and description, you earned them!
Much appreciated
excellent instructions very helpful
And again, thank you so much for this video! 👍
Used this video for my 3.7L F150. Thanks a ton!
me too!
Coming up on my change as well for my f150 thanks for the video
Guys if your trucks are 2012 or earlier, it should be covered under the recall.
Thanks a lot. This was very helpful.
Thx bud looked for this video for a while subscribed and liked
Thank you
Bro!!! Preciate it! 🤍 we got the same identical car an yr.. I was about to come out of pocket to have the mechanic to do it.. but this seems simple.. I’m going to tackle it myself in the morning.. preciate it man 💯
Hell yeah, and with the money you save doing it yourself you can get some of the mods I've been doin 👍
Guns&Cars Lol I downloaded all ur videos I’m bout to do some shit now.. I still got the factory intake in .. smh
Driveshaft install is uploading now. Just MPT tuned today so videos of those tunes comming up soon and I'm putting my water pump pulley on this weekend. Glad to have you aboard.
Did you figure it out? I see part of a comment you sent about torque but it is no longer viewable when I click on it.
Thanks for the video , it was very helpful .
Yes sir, glad to help.
I’m gonna do my plugs this weekend. We have the same color car, mines a ‘12. Watched your brake video and had trouble but now they’re working great. I’m thinking of getting 3.73 gears next.
Yeah I remember you said you had to take it to the shop and they just bled the brakes. I have a few videos on the 3.73's; best mod I have done to the car so far, that and the tune. I'm taking it to the track in 2 days to see what it will run with current mods, then installing headers and ported intakes and running again to see how much faster it runs. I'm assuming you have found my Mustang playlist by now, but if not, I have a bunch of videos in there. I'm also about to install new pads and rotors (drilled and slotted) and new Koni shocks & struts here in about a week or two.
@@BuckeyeBallistics yeah I don’t know if what the bleeding helped or just breaking them in or what but now it’s like brand new. Weekend before I installed SR performance springs and koni orange struts and shocks. Replaced the rear sway bar end links. (They were shot) Did you replace the rear lower control arms? I’ve heard pros and cons to it on ride quality. I’ve got the airaid cai. I need to get a tuner before I go any further. You have mpt tuner right?
Have not replaced anything suspensionwise yet, until my Konis go on (orange like yours). Yes, mpt tuned. The 93 tune is much stronger than the 87, definately worth paying extra at the pump imo.
@@BuckeyeBallistics I like the ride. A little stiffer. I’m still on 18’s and not planning on going to 20’s cause I think they’d be too rough riding. I like more meat on the tires but I think you’ll love the konis
Nice job. Thanks
Nice video dude. I appreciate it.
Dope video thanks bro!
Great video, just gotta check one out on torque wrenches now lol
Great video very helpful 👍
Thank you
Welcome
My service manual (2017 3.7 Mustang) also shows torquing the intake manifold bolts in two stages, stage 1 being to 89 in*lbs and stage 2 being an additional 45 degrees.
Hard to tell which one of ours has been revised. If your service manual is older, then my specs are probably the new revised specs; they do this often in the automotive world. I just changed the tcm on it on found similar results, where 2 of the bolts were flip flopped in the sequence from one publication to the next. I would be afraid of turning them the extra 45°, because as I said in the video, they snugged up real quick. I haven't had any issues since install. Probably either method is fine though.
@@BuckeyeBallistics Nice video by the way. Thanks for posting it.
Thanks
Really helpful. Thanks
Thank you for the video
Fooking thank you for such detail 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Can you please let me know where the camshaft position sensors are on the 2014 Mustang V6 3.7?
Very helpful. Thank you
My pleasure
How can I access the variable valve timing solenoids on this vehicle?
Hey I changed mines yesterday but I noticed that where my gasket sits the bloack was all black almost looked oem painted, but yours looks chrome at 8:33 any idea why? I also used too much lbs to tie down the plugs so hopefully I didn’t mess up!! Thanks alot first time ever working on my car by myself you’re awesome
It's just a reflection because it is wet/oily. It was all black...
Man u are amazing!!!
How do I get the bolts out ?
Hey bro great video! Is the replacement of the upper intake manifold gasket necessary to switch out the spark plugs?
As I discussed in the video, supposedly it's a lifetime gasket- but I went ahead and replaced mine anyway just to be safe. But technically you shouldn't have to...
May I request the removal of the fusebox under the hood? and if at all possible, showing which wire underneath the fusebox leads to the fuel pump relay fuse. I'm interested in making a hidden killswitch and I also have a '14 v6 mustang.
I don't have the car anymore. But if you like my car videos, please subscribe to my new car channel "92KBuilds" as I do not post car content on this channel anymore.
did you know exactly the measure for the spark plugs?
Those zip tie clip things are a nightmare. no leverage on the one near the firewall, had to gnaw it up with needlenose pliers, now theres a good bit of it mashed and stuck inside the hole
Hi, where is the fuel pressure sensor?
Same exact car i have, rims, year, color, everything
Kewl. Pretty ain't it?
Hey bro out of the 7 bolts one of the first ones are loose I guess becouse I tightened it too much but its still inside it just doesn’t screw in all the way down,I’ve been looking for a video on how to remove the manifold bolts and I can’t find one don’t wanna try to replace them without knowing
So are you asking me a question? Because this is a statement...
I reused my gasket, no problems after 10000 miles as far as I can tell. Ridiculous that you need to remove the intake to change the plugs. 100 years making cars and they still have their heads in their asses.
Yeah I know, it's bull. But at least it was an easy manifold to remove; done much worse in the past. GM's 3800 V6 was about 3x as bad, and my 97 Probe with the 2.5 V6 had to be one of THE worst in the world, absolute nightmare. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have to do my plugs this weekend. Haven’t had to change plugs since I’ve had a car with spark plug wires.
They make DIY harder so you'll go back to the dealership service and let them do it. Just like how they took away the transmission dipstick and you practically have to take the whole transmission pan off just to change the fluid. They're trying to get you back in the service department.
I agree 100%. I have noticed over the years that some things seem to be deliberate so you will have to take your car in and pay them over $100 an hour to do it, plus pay for *their* overpriced parts. Just wait until it's like the farm equipment industry, where you're not even allowed to fix your own vehicle...
Thanks for the detailed video. How many miles when you changed them and how long did the job take? Love Felpro never had issues with them.
I changed them around 110,000 miles because I bought the car used and wasn't sure when they were changed last. But I change cheapy plugs every 30k or iridium every 60k. Job took about 3.5 hours for me but that included recording and narrating...
@@BuckeyeBallistics Thanks I figure 2-3 hours for me taking my time while watching your video.
On your motor do you see the cylinder head temp sensor??? I can't find it
Sold car
Sooooo I got mine changed and it doubled my miles to empty and then it started burning gas quick. Then I pumped $20 of gas and it went from 65 miles to 269 miles to empty. My car responds quick, sounds better, feels smoother but the gas burns quicker and the miles to E isn't accurate.. I'm not too sure what exactly happened but I had unplugged the battery before the change and then this happened. Any suggestions what to do? I bought pre-gapped spark plugs but I believe they turned out to be on the wrong measurement. Might just have to check them tomorrow morning and readjust them but if that doesn't fix the issue, idk what will..
Not sure why you posted another comment when I already replied to your other one on the other video. Did you mess with the fuel rail or injectors at all?
Bro, once I was putting it back. The screw number 6 of your order on how to tight it, got lose, I over pressure it. What would you recommend to do now ?
I finish everything else and it runs good and makes no sound or anything.
Just leave it and pray nothing starts leaking lol. If it becomes a problem, you will have to drill and tap the hole to fix it, or try helicoil.
I'm having a difficult time poppin off the little plastic things you said we might break
I just cut them all with tin snips. The right tool to use is one of those forked trim removal tools.
Hey brother question? Why do you need to have a torque sequence and why does it also needs to go in a order and also the inch pounds of torque? Sorry I’m lost with this 😭
Hard to explain the physics behind it, but following the sequence and order helps make sure the part goes on flat and level so that there are no gaps/leaks. And they quote inch pounds because it's such a low torque number- I generally mention it in the videos, but you ideally want to use a small torque wrench for such a light amount of torque, and they usually run/measure inch pounds instead of foot pounds. Often times the larger wrenches aren't very accurate on such low numbers, which is why ideally you want to use a smaller wrench, which again are usually in inch pounds.
No bolt sizes?
What is the part/plug you at 2:40 that you just unbolted mine seems to have a clicking noice right there lol
Purge valve
Do you happen to know where the Crankshaft position sensor is located? I’ve been all over the internet trying to find it. I have a 2013 Mustang V6 3.7
www.mustangevolution.com/threads/location-of-ckp-sensor-in-2012-mustang-v6-3-7l.417942/
I accidentally stripped bolt number 7, no shops open right now, all other bolts are on there good, would it still be drivable until i can get it into a shop tomorrow?
Yeah should be fine with just 1 missing bolt, though may have a small air leak.
what symptoms could it bring driving it just for today and tomorrow, to and from work? any major engine damage?
Yeah it'll be fine for a day or two no problem, I just wouldn't drive it hard. So basically what could happen is it may run a little lean if it has an air leak due to the missing bolt. Meaning, you're getting more air into the engine than what the computer thinks you are due to the leak, so it may not mix the air & fuel ratio 100% correct. This could cause a slight power loss or misfire if you run it hard and subsequently eventually a check engine light- but driving it around like a normal person (not hot rodding) shouldn't cause that at all. Honestly even if you punch it it'll probably be just fine no misfire no power loss no nothin, there's just that chance because you might have an air leak now with the missing bolt. You'll be fine man, just don't hot rod on it until it's fixed if you want to be super sure to not cause anything out of the ordinary.
I just changed my gasket but didnt know i had to bolt it on a certain way and torque them 🤦🏻♂️😂 so i still have a vacuum leak i can bear clearly idk if its bc that or it wasnt the gasket in the first place
Loosen the bolts and then torque to spec in the appropriate order
Sorry for bothering u again but i just bought a torque wrench to torque the bolts but the settings start off at 10 foot pounds or 20.3 newton meters so i was wondering do i have to buy another one with the right setting ofc and if so how can i tell which is the right one. Im tryna learn how to work on my own car so that’s why i was wondering
Yeah for those low of numbers you will need a 1/4" drive that is in in-lbs (inch pounds) instead of ft-lbs. Then you just convert: 12in-lb is = to 1ft-lb. So if you need 8ft-lbs for example, then you would set it to 96in-lbs. Here is one such wrench: amzn.to/3zR61Yf
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I know this sounds dumb but its so cold outside rn and hearing the birds in the background of the video are making me even more Impatient for summer
Oh no, I understand exactly what you mean. I can't wait for spring and the birdies to be back...
7:52 If you inspect the lifetime gasket and it's not damaged, there is no reason to replace it. I did my spark plugs 30k miles ago and never had an issue in 30 months. PS when the cover is removed, it's a great time to give it a good cleaning.
Lol. I hope you don't work at a shop.
Theres no reason not to replace it in my opinion
Appreciate it boss
Yessir
I've a failing knock sensor bank 1. Do you have any video on how to remove the lower intake?
I will next week when I install my ported upper and lower intake.
@@BuckeyeBallistics I'm having trouble finding the location of the knock sensor do you know where I can find it?
I've been searching for 20 minutes man and I can't find an answer. I don't know if they are somehow under the intake like the V8 is or not. If they are I'll post a location video when I have it off, because I don't see a video for it either.
You don't need to remove the two bolts from the vapor solenoid. Also you can remove the hose from the breather pipe near the firewall instead of on the intake manifold and just take the whole pipe with the manifold. Rebolt order doesn't totally matter just go out to in and torque to snug. Total removal should take no more than 5 minutes. Same to reattach. You don't need to remove the negative terminal for this either. Only came here because my dad's 3.7L is missing that front manifold bracket bolt, and I was trying to see if your video gave a good view of that particular bolt, but you never quite pulled it out. It's missing in my Dad's car, and I think that's causing it to throw a vacuum leak code.
Whenever you unplug the maf it is a good idea to have the battery disconnected before you plug it back in, as the power surge on reconnect can sometimes blow them. This may seem ridiculously false, but some Toyota's for example are actually know to have this problem and I have experienced it first hand and had to replace. So I've just made it a habit. Also there are those that say you should always disconnect the battery anyway regardless of what repair you are performing, for "safety." Had I not disconnected it, then I would be getting hate comments from the safety police. No matter what I do or how I do it one of you guys will always have something to contest. Sigh, such is the wonderful life of a youtuber...
@@BuckeyeBallistics You unbolted the vapor solenoid from the intake manifold not the maf. The maf is located right after the airbox off the intake hose well before the throttle body. The maf is not something that needs to be removed to remove the manifold. Anyway, I only came here to see if I could get a view of that one stupid front manifold bracket bolt to see if I have something similar lying around from one of my other repairs that I can screw in there because I'm pretty sure that one missing bolt is the vacuum leak in my father's 3.7 that is causing it to throw a couple of vacuum codes. The previous owner or whomever worked on the car prior to my dad purchasing it was careless and didn't reinstall that one bolt.
I didn't re-watch the video to see what I removed; I assumed I unplugged the maf. But when you have 700+ videos, it's hard to remember what you did in each one. If you want, I can record a video of what you're looking for to show you, just need a specific location...
@@BuckeyeBallistics I would just need a look at that front bracket bolt. Like the length and size so I can get a similar one from Napa if I can't find one lying around.
Alright. Are you able to contact me on instagram? Then you could send me a picture of exactly what you need and I'll get it for you. If not I'll figure it out and get you an answer. Insta: @gunsandcarsyt
How many miles did you have on your car when you changed the plugs?
Over 100,000 miles. I bought the car used with over 100,000. So in case they were never changed, I changed them. Refer to your owners manual for when to change...
Hey man... Question do you know every how many miles the spark plugs have to be changed? I bought a 2014 v6 this summer with 62.000 miles in it i heard tha the spark plugs last over 100.000 miles? I am not sure if you can help me with my question i will really appreciated...thank you.
I think the service manual does say something about 100k, but I would never wait that long. The golden rule of thumb that I've always went by was every 30k, and that's what I still do today even with the high end plugs that I run. But I run my cars hard constantly. If you drive your car easy, then you can go longer; but I still wouldn't go 100,000. Driving like me where I go full throttle multiple times daily, I would say definately every 30k. Spirited driving but not quite that hard, every 50k. If you constantly baby it and hardly ever dip into it, probably every 75k. And that applies only to this vehicle and with the plugs it calls for from the factory. Also, that's just my opinion.
@@BuckeyeBallistics thank you so much for you answer an thank you for the video i will check my car's plugs using you video is reference.... Thanks man...
Welcome
@@BuckeyeBallistics I just changed daughter's 2013 Mustang V6 plugs with 167K on them. The gap was ~ 0.065-0.070 so definitely worn out but still worked great, and she doesn't baby hers. I think the Ford V6 engines are pretty solid, even though I'm a Chevy guy. Now if it had a turbo, that would certainly change things and then I'd be with you on changing every 60K. Good vid though, very detailed. Like someone else pointed out, that pipe with the nasty double spring clips doesn't need to be removed at all, just undo it near the firewall. Saved me several minutes. Keep up the good work!
These newer cars say you don't have to change the oil until 20,000 miles now too, but you'll never get me to go that long without a change. .070 isn't very efficient- I would expect throttle response and mileage to increase slightly with the new plugs...
What if I don’t have a torque wrench?
Then unless you guess right, you'll either be too loose and cause a leak, or too tight and risk stripping out the threads (which will make it loose).
Do you know where the coolant temperature sensor is?
Not without googling it
Where is the camshaft located on a 2011 model
Um well you have 4 because it's a DOHC (dual over head cam), and being a DOHC then dictatates that they are above the heads under the valve covers...
hey sorry but what is that first hose you disconnected? mine is wet and i think is leaking
Time stamp please so I know we are both talking about the same thing
@@BuckeyeBallistics 1:50 i think its the pcv valve hose
Correct, pcv.
How many lbs ft torque is it.
Watch the video...
How do you change intake plenum gasket? I got 2016 v6
You just pop it out and put in the new one- did I not show that in this video?
@@BuckeyeBallistics sorry I’m noob first time ever trying to work on a car. I went to auto zone and it say to change intake plenum gasket I didn’t know it was that sorry. Also gotta charge spark plug but I watched your other videos and I’m ready to tackle this project. Thank you 🙏
Oh, yeah it's just a little rubber gasket that is (on this car) just pushed into the manifold- typically green or blue (on this car); I still thought I showed it in the video though? I did another video where I replaced both the upper and lower manifolds later on with new ported (performance) ones. That video shows a little more about it I think since that's all it was about was the manifolds. They're all in the Mustang playlist on the channel for quick access. Good luck and just take your time and triple check everything 👍
@@BuckeyeBallistics Thank you so much sir. I will make sure i check everything more then twice.
Do it yourself!💯😂. Ford needs to hire you lol
I have often comptemplated being a full time mechanic but it doesn't pay enough. I make more money being a maintenance technician in my current field.
Guns&Cars oh wow! Yeah, I can see you at a dealership charging high prices 😂
If I could open my own shop I would do it and I would charge less than everyone else but that takes a lot to start up. I do work on the side sometimes.
Guns&Cars that’s awesome and that’s a good skill to have because folks will come to you before the dealership because the dealership will Charger you a arm and a leg😂😳.
@@nick__cars Yeah but I have also ran into people expecting me to work for 20 bucks or for beer and I laugh in their face. Though I did work for ammo once 😅
It would be helpful if you told use the name and function of each component you unplug.
Says you- then the next guy complains that I talk too much (ask me how I know). As for your FPS question in your other comment, I'd have to google it because I myself don't know where it is off the top of my head. I.E., try googling it...
So where is the cylinder number 3 ?
Rear most passenger side I believe...
Can you please make a video on the hose at 3: 47 please. I am unable to take it out. Please help!!! Thank you!
But I literally said in the video in detail how to remove it... you have to squeeze both the front and back tabs together at the same time because it is actually one piece. Then, at the same time, wiggle, twist, and pull back to pop it off- sometimes the rubber will kinda seize onto plastic and metal parts like that from the heat. It might be easier with 2 people so one can squeeze those clamps down while the other pops it off. The weather is horrible here right now, raining and very windy. If you still can't get it off then I could make a quick video for you in a day or two when the weather permits, but it's going to be showing exactly what I just eplained...
@@BuckeyeBallistics thank you for replying so quickly. I feel like I will break it. I am trying to replace 3 egnition coils and found your video extremely helpful. If you could show the tool and the amount of pressure required to take the hose out, I would greatly appreciate it. Please take your time as I will try it once more on December 19th. Thank you so much for being kind.
I already showed the tool in the video, you must have blinked lol. Just a large pair of needle nose pliers and I had to squeeze pretty hard. Lemme just see if I can go outside and make the 30 second video for you real quick. I'm not posting it as public, so I'll have to give you the link here in a few minutes when I'm done.
Thank you so much for being awesome!!
No problem. It's uploading now but I have slow internet here so it'll take a few minutes. I'll send you the link when it's done. Please let me know that you got the video and that it plays when you get it. Should be less than 20 minutes from right now that I'll be able to send it...
Do u know the firing order on that mustang ?
1-4-2-5-3-6
@@BuckeyeBallistics the reason I was asking I got a bad coil pack on cylinder 3 I was wondering what side it was on
Passenger side rear
@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks man
You're welcome
Those rubber intake gaskets are reusable..
Where is the EGR?
Does not have one, has purge valve.
Thank you!
I'm hearing air leaks. Where the green gasket is. Should I take it back apart and get the green gasket?
I'm assuming you re-used the old gaskets? Re-check the torque. But otherwise yeah, a leaking intake manifold can cause the car to run lean which can be hard on the engine if it's bad enough.
@Guns&Cars I just bought the one you suggested for my my wife's car and we wiped everything down and it's running smooth now. Back up to 14.4mpg.
So it's good now or still leaking? You can do a smoke test to confirm- blow smoke where you suspect the leak to be and it will suck it in if it's leaking. And I hope you live in the city if you are only getting 14mpg, because I get over 20mpg and I drive mine hard...
@Guns&Cars it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore. You could definitely hear the leaking like it was sucking in air somewhere with the original green gasket, but when we wiped everything down and got the felpro gasket, it didn't make that noise anymore. Also she started driving it hard and it jumped up to 15.8mpg. It's climbing steadily.
Oh ok, glad to hear it!
It’s gonna sounds like v10 now😅
From taking the manifold off and putting it back on?!?!?
Boonrit Roopsoong no a v12😎
5/16 not 8mm ??? Not assembled in mexico? Lol
Rip fingernail
Ok video but you really don’t seem to have much experience
Neither do you considering you are watching a "how to" video...