The fact that you left your learning lesson in the video earned you a sub. Most contractors would have edited it out. You kept it real because that's how most of us would have done this. Thanks!
@@bendegros fancy! I was talking about the rusty file & deformed pliers handles. I must say, yours cut the finishing nails much easier than mine. Also, thanks for not cutting the oops on the tension direction. Dude, you are just to cool!
My buddy who is a homebuilder told me the nail trick as well. I didn't have those when adjusting my hinges. I lived in this house for like 6 years before realizing I had these hinges installed for my garage door.
One of the beautiful things about getting older is that experience dictates those jobs you refuse to ever do again. For me that would include hanging doors and refinishing floors.
Awesome video. I have a door that leads into my garage about 10' from my bedroom and if you arent careful it slams bad. I just loosened it up so itll close but not slam. Thank you!!!!!!
Ben, are three hinges required in your area ? I have only seen, and also installed one hinge here in Calif. on the door that leads from inside the house to the garage.
These are required in my area for certain doors (to furnace room and door between two suites). To top it off, they also require solid core doors. The way they were set up you could easily lose a finger if you don't get out of the way fast enough with all the tension+weight of the doors.
I had no idea it was Bommer, not bomber! Had to look it up, too . All my life, I thought it was so-called because of the automatic closure, like bomb bay doors. When I read the description, I thought it was a weird Canadian spelling of bomber. Always learning!
That made me laugh 😂 I always see those for garage doors but never for front doors? Are they a bad idea for a front door? I have learned a lot from your channel . Keep the videos coming 👍🏻
Aw man, when I did retail store maintenance, I worked on plenty of these, and clipped finish nails are THE thing to use for this (bonus if the nail head is big enough to act as a stopper from going all the way through). The actual pins aren't much thicker, and I've never seen a nail get sheared from the spring tension. One time I needed a lot of tension, and while I was trying to insert a pin, the key slipped and went flying across the store. Fun times.
Ben great video. I’m looking to remove a door with these hinges without unscrewing from door jam. I need to replace a torn door sweep. A video on that would be amazing.
SAME thing happened to me on a job and I almost left it...but I did the same thing. I thought what I did was so bootleg but after seeing this I feel legit.
Heh, I'll admit that at first I thought you were channeling Matt Risinger, who refers to anything of high quality as "bomber" -- as in, "that's a bomber flashing job" and so these would be excellent hinges! Turns out that that's what self-closing hinges are called? Learn something new every day!
Interesting. Used a similar hinge on a door to the garage - auto close. I wonder if these could be used to tension a door that was incorrectly hung to keep it from always swinging all the way open. Maybe only replace one hinge? (Already tried the bent hinge pin trick. Some improvement, but not enough.) Thanks for the video.
I would think so but why not just adjust the door frame? Pull the casing off both sides, use sawzall on backside of jamb and face of jack stud to cut out all the shims & nails, set frame properly and renail everything, then put the casing back on. Should not take long.
@@bendegros Normally I would agree but I tried it the other day for the first time and found it was surprisingly fast. The door was rubbing on the frame and the strike side jamb was not aligned with the hinge side, so you had to really yard on it to get it to close. My buddy who does commercial doors full time told me to do what I described. It sounds like a lot more work than it actually is unless you're dealing with some extraordinary finish on the casing but that isn't probably the case with a door to the garage.
@@bendegros Ha, right? Option 1: replace a hinge. 5 minute job, no power tools needed. Option 2: completely remove the door, possibly have to replace trim if it gets damaged in removal, but for sure have to re-fill new nail holes, possibly caulk gaps and re-paint between the jamb and trim and between trim and wall base boards, and while also making sawzall sawdust and noise, and re-nailing in the whole door jamb back in to place (hopefully only once), and then possibly have to re-cut trim pieces if you had to adjust your jamb enough to change dimensions of the completed install ( like, if you had to move one out, then your wall base board might be too long).
IMO, that's way too much tension. I have hinges like this between my kitchen and the garage. When we first moved in, it slammed like this, and it would rattle the picture frames on the wall, the the dishes in the cabinet next to the door. We never did anything about it, but over time it loosened up, and we like it much better now. The door should close with just enough force for the knob's latch to engage. Anything more than that, and the door is slamming. IMO, that's an inconvenience that it closes so quickly, but also it's noisy, and probably bangs the door jamb and/strike plate pretty hard, and is quite loud. That said, I guess I could see a situation where if that door is subjected to wind that might hold it open if it doesn't have enough tension on it, but this looks like a door to the garage, so wind wouldn't normally be an issue.
In Arizona it is not a code requirements but a home inspector will make a deal of it if it does not last have the door. So many people make a deal about the door being closed due to fire, but another thing to consider is any kind of solvent/gas fumes getting into the house if the door doesn’t latch closed. Really it’s how safe you want it to be safe for you.
@@bahbee5659 I dont understand any of what you said. Is this only for a self closing door? and if the door doesn't close on its own then it needs more tension. is that what you are saying?
@@_baert It's mostly for doors to attached garages. The door should automatically close and not stay open as a fire door and to stop and fumes from the garage from entering your living space.
OK, so since nobody answered your question clearly: A self-closing door is supposed to pull itself fully-closed so that the door knob completely latches closed, but doesn't slam. If it slams, that's too much tension. If you pull the door all the way open and let it go, it should close juuust hard enough to latch. THAT'S how you would know if you need to adjust tension. :)
Hey Ben. Off topic from this video but I just picked up my first hawk and trowel. The trowel is a Bon 12x5. I know theres a learning curve but my performance yesterday was pretty awful. I was 18’ up a ladder skimming a popcorn ceiling though (popcorn had been removed). I know, heck of a way to learn huh. Anyways, I noticed the trowel was cupped slightly upwards towards the handle, along the axis of the handle. It was listed as a finishing trowel so I expected it to be perfectly flat. Are finishing trowels typically cupped in that way? Just wanted to know if I got a defective one or if this is the real deal. Sorry for the long comment. I tried to find and email contact but this was the best I could do. Sincerely long time subscriber, Alan.
Eugene Esquig If you only need a little adjustment I would flex the upper and lower hinges - use a big crescent - clamp on hinge cylinder with door closed and bend the top hinge a little right and bottom hinge a little left. If that doesn’t work you will need to shim bottom jamb at hinge and /or remove a little meat on the upper.
Sir.... This door frame should shimmed better and the reveals spaced evenly between the door slab and frame. Your gaps are uneven, shimming should be evenly spaced top, middle, bottom behind each hinge -equally on the strike jamb as well. ( certainly not being a jerk here, but we all learn as we go.)
The fact that you left your learning lesson in the video earned you a sub. Most contractors would have edited it out. You kept it real because that's how most of us would have done this. Thanks!
As a skater i watched your videos and now as a craftsman im doing the same
You crack me up. Other DIY guys have all this “sponsored” equipment. You have the same kind of tools that I do😂🤪🙈
:) I’m kinda old school. Don’t need or care for the fancy tools.
@@bendegros fancy! I was talking about the rusty file & deformed pliers handles. I must say, yours cut the finishing nails much easier than mine. Also, thanks for not cutting the oops on the tension direction. Dude, you are just to cool!
I always wanted to know how to adjust those hinges! Now I know. Thank you, you’re still the man!
My buddy who is a homebuilder told me the nail trick as well. I didn't have those when adjusting my hinges. I lived in this house for like 6 years before realizing I had these hinges installed for my garage door.
Always wondered what the weird looking hinges were for on my garage entry door! Thanks for the video!
One of the beautiful things about getting older is that experience dictates those jobs you refuse to ever do again. For me that would include hanging doors and refinishing floors.
Holy crap. I’ve been following your skate channels. But never knew you had this carpentry channel. 👍👍
Awesome video. I have a door that leads into my garage about 10' from my bedroom and if you arent careful it slams bad. I just loosened it up so itll close but not slam.
Thank you!!!!!!
Love the honesty.
Ben, are three hinges required in your area ? I have only seen, and also installed one hinge here in Calif. on the door that leads from inside the house to the garage.
There is no requirement. Just how heavy the door and if there's frequent wind, etc. If it opens to outside
Thanks a lot mate just save me some time on a handy man job legend
My pleasure!
These are required in my area for certain doors (to furnace room and door between two suites). To top it off, they also require solid core doors. The way they were set up you could easily lose a finger if you don't get out of the way fast enough with all the tension+weight of the doors.
Thanks for posting. I guess I will find out which turning direction increases door closing speed also.
I had no idea it was Bommer, not bomber! Had to look it up, too . All my life, I thought it was so-called because of the automatic closure, like bomb bay doors. When I read the description, I thought it was a weird Canadian spelling of bomber. Always learning!
That made me laugh 😂 I always see those for garage doors but never for front doors? Are they a bad idea for a front door? I have learned a lot from your channel . Keep the videos coming 👍🏻
This is a garage door. Might be a PITA on a front door.
Aw man, when I did retail store maintenance, I worked on plenty of these, and clipped finish nails are THE thing to use for this (bonus if the nail head is big enough to act as a stopper from going all the way through). The actual pins aren't much thicker, and I've never seen a nail get sheared from the spring tension.
One time I needed a lot of tension, and while I was trying to insert a pin, the key slipped and went flying across the store. Fun times.
🙂🙌
Ben great video. I’m looking to remove a door with these hinges without unscrewing from door jam. I need to replace a torn door sweep. A video on that would be amazing.
Cool. Seen those hinges before, but never knew the specialty of them
Super easy, your video save my *ss , thanks brother
OMG, I had no idea that type of hinge existed! I went to a lot of effort to have a fancy door-closer installed which was probably way overkill.
Like dating, it’s always best with tension both ways ....
😀 Hi Ed!!!!!
SAME thing happened to me on a job and I almost left it...but I did the same thing. I thought what I did was so bootleg but after seeing this I feel legit.
Now I know how to remove the pins. Thanks
Once you figured out the right tension, did you put the pin in the holes closer to the door or closer to the wall? I couldn't really see.
Sorry cariama shoe guy but question. Move to right and pin to the left to make the door close with more or less tension? Thx
Heh, I'll admit that at first I thought you were channeling Matt Risinger, who refers to anything of high quality as "bomber" -- as in, "that's a bomber flashing job" and so these would be excellent hinges! Turns out that that's what self-closing hinges are called? Learn something new every day!
😂
Good video. I have these on my door leading to the garage and I was wondering how to add tension to them. Request by the wife. Good looking out!
There’s an Allen screw in the top of the hinge, an Allen wrench can be used to temporarily hold the tension.
Interesting. Used a similar hinge on a door to the garage - auto close. I wonder if these could be used to tension a door that was incorrectly hung to keep it from always swinging all the way open. Maybe only replace one hinge? (Already tried the bent hinge pin trick. Some improvement, but not enough.) Thanks for the video.
I would think so but why not just adjust the door frame? Pull the casing off both sides, use sawzall on backside of jamb and face of jack stud to cut out all the shims & nails, set frame properly and renail everything, then put the casing back on. Should not take long.
Did you try bending the leaves of hinge itself?
After reading all that work I think I might try adding a bommer hinge😂
@@bendegros Normally I would agree but I tried it the other day for the first time and found it was surprisingly fast. The door was rubbing on the frame and the strike side jamb was not aligned with the hinge side, so you had to really yard on it to get it to close. My buddy who does commercial doors full time told me to do what I described. It sounds like a lot more work than it actually is unless you're dealing with some extraordinary finish on the casing but that isn't probably the case with a door to the garage.
@@bendegros Ha, right? Option 1: replace a hinge. 5 minute job, no power tools needed. Option 2: completely remove the door, possibly have to replace trim if it gets damaged in removal, but for sure have to re-fill new nail holes, possibly caulk gaps and re-paint between the jamb and trim and between trim and wall base boards, and while also making sawzall sawdust and noise, and re-nailing in the whole door jamb back in to place (hopefully only once), and then possibly have to re-cut trim pieces if you had to adjust your jamb enough to change dimensions of the completed install ( like, if you had to move one out, then your wall base board might be too long).
Everyone is talkin hinge adjusting, been there done that. What if the door is jamming up top, can ya bend a spring loaded to adjust the bind ?
Leaky showerr head or tap , sink drain ? Any info or demos
Thanks a million!
Hello, where can i get this? Thank you
IMO, that's way too much tension. I have hinges like this between my kitchen and the garage. When we first moved in, it slammed like this, and it would rattle the picture frames on the wall, the the dishes in the cabinet next to the door. We never did anything about it, but over time it loosened up, and we like it much better now. The door should close with just enough force for the knob's latch to engage. Anything more than that, and the door is slamming. IMO, that's an inconvenience that it closes so quickly, but also it's noisy, and probably bangs the door jamb and/strike plate pretty hard, and is quite loud. That said, I guess I could see a situation where if that door is subjected to wind that might hold it open if it doesn't have enough tension on it, but this looks like a door to the garage, so wind wouldn't normally be an issue.
A self opening door could sometimes be real handy. Boom boom!
But like, why would I need to adjust tension? How would I know? Should I test my doors right now or wait until something weird is up with them?
In Arizona it is not a code requirements but a home inspector will make a deal of it if it does not last have the door. So many people make a deal about the door being closed due to fire, but another thing to consider is any kind of solvent/gas fumes getting into the house if the door doesn’t latch closed. Really it’s how safe you want it to be safe for you.
@@bahbee5659 I dont understand any of what you said. Is this only for a self closing door? and if the door doesn't close on its own then it needs more tension. is that what you are saying?
@@_baert It's mostly for doors to attached garages. The door should automatically close and not stay open as a fire door and to stop and fumes from the garage from entering your living space.
OK, so since nobody answered your question clearly: A self-closing door is supposed to pull itself fully-closed so that the door knob completely latches closed, but doesn't slam. If it slams, that's too much tension. If you pull the door all the way open and let it go, it should close juuust hard enough to latch. THAT'S how you would know if you need to adjust tension. :)
How do u remove hinges on these
Thank you ! DIY mom :)
Interesting, I'm just about to do this for the first time
@Johnny AppleStead yeah I'm adjusting a single existing spring hinge
Hey Ben. Off topic from this video but I just picked up my first hawk and trowel. The trowel is a Bon 12x5. I know theres a learning curve but my performance yesterday was pretty awful. I was 18’ up a ladder skimming a popcorn ceiling though (popcorn had been removed). I know, heck of a way to learn huh. Anyways, I noticed the trowel was cupped slightly upwards towards the handle, along the axis of the handle. It was listed as a finishing trowel so I expected it to be perfectly flat. Are finishing trowels typically cupped in that way? Just wanted to know if I got a defective one or if this is the real deal. Sorry for the long comment. I tried to find and email contact but this was the best I could do. Sincerely long time subscriber, Alan.
Which direction
Question now is... How would one go about adjusting door sag on said hinges?
Eugene Esquig If you only need a little adjustment I would flex the upper and lower hinges - use a big crescent - clamp on hinge cylinder with door closed and bend the top hinge a little right and bottom hinge a little left. If that doesn’t work you will need to shim bottom jamb at hinge and /or remove a little meat on the upper.
There is a tool for that called Knuckle Bender, made by Fastcap, and comes with a hinge pin remover. Its available on Amazon for about $ 20.00.
Works well… even in the USA 😂
Have you ever been to Summit tools? I thought I met someone looks like you.
I LIKE THE FYL
Sir.... This door frame should shimmed better and the reveals spaced evenly between the door slab and frame. Your gaps are uneven, shimming should be evenly spaced top, middle, bottom behind each hinge -equally on the strike jamb as well.
( certainly not being a jerk here, but we all learn as we go.)
came to find what direction to tension. almost turned it off when I saw him do it the wrong way. LOL
Good
Got it backwards!!!!
I read this as boomer hinge when clicking
Which way? Clockwise looking down? You hid the most important part
wow... just checked out that bommer hinges price... far out.. they are NOT cheap!!!
Okay Bommer
Peak youtube
I use these all over my house because girls apparently were born without the instinct to close doors.
Not for me. I'd be vocally using all my four lettered words when that door closes on me with my hands full of stuff!
I thought it was "bomber," too.
I did the same lol
Yeah, Okay Bommer Hinges, Now what I want to see, is that door trimmed out. That looks nasty and will require some tricky Trimming.
That's a rusty file 😂
✅😎👍✌️✌️
Lol Lol Lol
VaNCouVEr?!
OK boomer.
Worst-looking file ever. My dad left me some files in that kind of shape...