I relocated mine to bank 1 side of head there’s two empty threaded holes above the manifold (remove heat shield ) one by cylinder 3 and 5 I believe no more knock sensor codes I used sensors and a harness from 1a auto. I did this job 3 times all with AC delco parts and had the same codes each time with 100 ohm readings. So far this is working
Try it and find out. Sounds solid. I have a small engine that needs to be level to run. Don't know why, but these two relate and it works in my head lol
I've read about this KS trick on LS1 forums, he's telling you a legit method👍 The whole engine is grounded anyway with 2 or 3 cables depending on the vehicle and many cars have KS on top of the block as well, GM decided to put them there👎
99% of these sensors are made by the same factories in China, even the GM (AC/Delco) branded ones. The key is to test the new sensors BEFORE you install them (that 95 - 107 ohm between the pin and the metal body of the sensor) and make sure you DO NOT over-tighten them and twist the sensor inside the body, which can break the electronics.
I’m having the same problem with a 2004 Chevy Suburban. I’ve also seen a few people here on TH-cam state that they were still having the same error code for the knock sensors even after they replaced the knock sensors with new ones. One person said that they solved the problem by using an electrical cleaning spray and cleaning the connectors in both the knock sensor harness and the connectors to the ecm too. I’m going to try and clean the connectors out with an electric cleaning spray and then follow up with everyone if this works. Update: The electrical cleaning spray did fix the knock sensor low input fault that I had on my Suburban. I simply disconnected the battery, removed the two color connectors from the ECM, removed the ECM from the mount, inspected all male and female electrical connections, sprayed the electrical spray cleaner a couple of times and scrubbed using a pipe cleaner brush, and allowed 15 to 30 minutes for the cleaning solvent to dry before assembling everything again. I did find that some pins on my ECM were covered in green grime and some other ones were white. But after the cleaning process everything seems pretty good now. I did have issues getting the rubber seals between the ECM and connectors to sit in place correctly, this caused my vehicle not to reset the ECM properly. But after removing the rubber sealing gaskets completely off the ECM did reset itself properly and the vehicle started up fine again. The last part was frustrating and a hassle, as I thought that I might have had damaged the ECM during the cleaning process but the culprits were the rubber gasket seals. I’ll just have to be really careful and mindful from now on to try and not get water into that region from now on, and clean up the ECM and connectors often.
I saw a vid where they mentioned the same issue you’re talking about. I bought some of the CRC elec cleaner. I had one sensor throwing a code a while back and replaced both sensors and sub harness with the AC Delco OE GM part #s and ever since both sensor banks keep throwing the low voltage code, but both read good on ohms at the harness connector?! I really hope it works! - ‘03 Yukon 5.3
Thank you so much… Replace my knock sensors on a 2000 Silverado 3.5…. Kept getting knocked sensor code… I took the wiring harness off of the ECM, cleaned all the connections, erased all the codes, the code has not come back, but it’s only been one day, so we’ll see in about a month….. again thank you for sharing your video
When you disconnect the battery your resetting the computer and it will stay off for a few days is all. Use Premium gas next time and there's a good chance it will fix the problem. The problem is usually the caused by misfires from low octane gas.
Did you ever solve this? I have issue where they both come on but if I delete the code with key on they don’t come back. It’s only when I reset pcm that it comes back
I'm having same issue with my 1997 Saturn SC2. They've replaced three different knock sensors with the last one being an AC Delco. Now the check engine light with same p0327 code is showing intermittently.
So you think the manifold removal is bad on your Silverado ? Try that on my Camaro instead then talk, lol, I have the same condition you have only I know my sensors are fine after swapping the 19y.o corroded units last autumn, new harness, 2 ACD sensors and JB Weld engine RTV. I even checked all the ground cables then soldered my old still working harness to some 100k Ohm resistors to simulate a perfect knock sensor, connected then drove and still got both damn codes this morning🤯 Now after taking apart my PCM today I'm pretty sure it's a ground issue somewhere that I'll have to find. Kudos for taking apart that whole harness man, that looks like a pure desperation move...I hope it doesn't come to that with my impossible to work on engine bay. Thanks for the video👍
I know this is an old video just wanted to share what I'm going through. I have a 2002 Saturn SC1 I'm getting code p0327. The symptoms I am having is the car jerking especially at lower speeds. Its a manual. losing power and the RPMs reving up on their own. I bought a brand new knock , replaced the wiring that goes from the knock sensor to the computer. am still getting that code and two new ones as well.
Victor Aberdeen good point, but the problem in this video was the computer connector was having the little prongs pushed out when you plugged the computer in. I changed the connector casing and all is good.
I read somewhere that GM has a weird learn cycle for these knock sensors, after replacing them you are supposed to rev the engine to 4000-5000 RPM and hold it there for 3 seconds, then repeat once more. That will learn the ECU.
I just had the rear knock sensor code which was corroded with water in the hole when I took it apart. Replaced both sensors with acdelco and torqued/put it all back together without testing them (like an idiot)... Now I have the front sensor code. Just saw cj phillips video about that relearn procedure and thinking that may be my issue. Gonna try it tomorrow, just hope I didn't get a broken sensor
@@GA10TV yeah didn’t for me either lol! I’m going to try some CRC Electronic cleaner on the ECM/PCM pins and harness connector. I don’t think my sensors are bad.
@rustyshackleford407 Hope that works! My front sensor probably just shipped bad so i'm gonna take it apart in a few days again... At least it has a warranty from autozone
May 26 2024 , hello , I have 2006 gmc 1500 Savana 5.3 L v8 . I have replied the knock sensor 2 x now . After driving 2000 miles the code po332 Knox/combustion vibration sensor 2 circuit low bank 2 . Why ? I have cleaned the pins that connects to ECM and 2 wires come from harness that connects to Knock sensor connector . ( if this code come up I well just replace new pins and wires and not use the old wire in the harness) I checked the continuity it is closed and good . Question is ; how do I check the voltage of ECM ? Also do I need to check if the new knock sensor is readin the knock from the motor three the wire to ECM . If o do how do I do this using a , Etekcity ( brand ) multimeter ? What is the right voltage ? When it listen for the knocks , what is it supposed to read ?
In all we replace both knock sensors the pigtail open the wiring loom to track down the wiring the wiring was fine it ended up being a corroded connector at the end towards the computer side it had a trace of lime green corrosion on it
I'm having the same issue with a 2001 Silverado , changed both knock sensors with acdelco and new wire harness and still getting the p0327 and p0332 codes , did you ever solve your issue ? if so I need help with mine
dan blank remove the connector to the engine computer clean it with CRC electrical cleaner let it dry check to see if any of the wiring on the plug is loose or pushed out reconnect and play
ok I checked my ohms and it was 101 on both knock sensors ,, then I checked the a/c volts on the sensor and it was reading about 5-7 on meter while I taped block with hammer , sounds like the sensors are ok
I back again , I replaced , AGAIN for the fourth time , used ac delco knock sensors, 15 ft lbs of torque and use a GM wire harness , tested both sensors after installed , when I meter the knock sensors , I get .2 ac volts , when I tap on block this reading goes up to 8-12 ac volts so I assume the knock sensors are working ok , that reading was straight on top of sensors , then hooked up the gm harness and got about the same reading so I put everything back together , and about 100 miles later , the dreaded p0332 and p0327 came back on , I have tried everything , and I don't know what to do anymore , so at a loss for words right now , I even check for resistance going to the pcm , it seamed fine why why why is this such a headache
First did you test the knock sensors through the computer connector , and you may need to reflash the computer , to eliminate the possibility of curupt software, while checking for damaged computer components. The one I was dealing with was just a bad connection at the PCM connector I believe it was the blue one.
ok I just checked truck again , I get 100 ohms on both sensors to the ground bolt , truck not running , I get ac volts from the semsors through the gm harness , do you know the specs for the proper ac volts then I checked while running the pcm connector where it connects to the gm wire harness , I was getting 0.42 and 0.41 volts from the pcm , do you know the specs the volts the pcm suppose to be sending ?
I cleaned the pcm connection and the pigtail end with contact cleaner , , it had some corrosion on pcm pin , still not getting 5 volts from pcm do u know the factory specs for this
just paid around 700 to have my knock sensors replaced in a 2004 chevy silverodo 4x4 v8 and not even a day later the codes came back what could this be
These knock sensor issues are utter hell. Replaced both 10 months back (one tested bad) with random aftermarket sensors and new plug harness (shortly after a new computer and whole new vehicle wiring harness was put in for unrelated issues). Those sensors appeared to fail a month apart, based on code (didn't test). I just redid the whole job with OEM to be sure, but pending low voltage codes again appeared for both sensors after the first drive cycle. Both read 100K ohms, so reasonably sure I got the connectors firmly seated on each sensor. So now I'm wondering if the first set of replacement sensors weren't actually bad, and it's something else entirely?
I replaced my sensors also. Still getting a check engine light when Suburban goes over 65mph. Did a ohm check going back to the ECM and got about 4.7K phms. So cable is good. Possibly bad ground from engine to chassis.
If you're still getting codes after replacing knock sensors and clearing with scanner try resetting the ECM/ECU that's the only thing that I found to work.
@@nathanplayz9506 No resetting the ECU sets everything back to Virgin factory settings. Clearing codes erases the codes but keeps the settings up to that point.
so I'm getting 0327 0332 i checked ecm and it did have some corrosion i cleaned and dielectric grease connector i replaced knock sensors and harness all gm acdelco parts still getting code
I’m wondering if anyone had experienced power loss like I have? Only codes I’m getting is for the knock sensors. I’ve replaced them twice and still getting the code only after highway speeds. Dealer confirmed the engine is perfect no knock what so ever. They said it was the PCM but a BRAND NEW PCM will not accept programming. Now they say it’s a wiring issue. Any advice? Anyone?
Spray brake cleaner really hard around bottom of the intake manifold. See if motor starts to react to it. If it does then its most likely intake manifold gasket leak. Reads as knock sensors and or random misfire
It was the knock sensors. Bought ac delco twice from GM. They are sh!t. I ended up going to a junk yard and getting OEM sensors out of a wrecked truck. Fixed the problem instantly.
Ok, fist disconnect your battery. Then take off the connector that has the knock sensor blue wire at the computer end and connect positive test lead there, then connect the negative lead to the knock sensor connector end while you have the dmm set to ohms. And you should have 2 to 3 oms of resistance max less is preferable. Then let me know what you got.
Gilbert Galvan you mean right at the top of the manifold where the blue clip is ( the connection from the harness to the line that goes to the computer) on top, so I’ll unplug it and use my multimeter, my red positive to the computer end then the black one to the harness connector?
I keep getting a 327 and 332 code. I’ve replaced both knock sensors and the harness with GM parts. Both show 20 volts from the computer and 99 oems. Both respond to tapping on the exhaust manifolds with voltage ranging up to about 300 microvolts I think. What am I missing? An ideas? Please help
Did you come to a conclusion on this? What was the cause of the issue? I am working on 2002 camry v6. Got knock code for number 2 sensor. I replaced both knock sensors and harness. Test drove it for 15 miles and it drove like a dream. Headed home and it coded on the on ramp to the highway.... I coded for number 1 sensor...? Replaced both again and the wire harness for good measure. Same exact thing happened again, same test drive with same results..? Someone said the issue would be in the wire going from knock sensor wire harness to the computer. Do you have any thoughts?
@@SuperDjnrg Was the conclusion the need to use OEM Knock sensors or the Actual terminal to the computer was the culprit(Bad connection to the computer; Assuming the same stands, Nothing to do with the wires integrity) ?
If you can gain access to a pinout chart for your computer to tell you where the knock sensor pins are, you could do it ohms check with the knock sensors disconnected. Also check the length of each circuit to make sure they have the correct ohms. You're going to get either one of three readings, the correct ohms, ohms are too high, or open circuit .in my case it ended up being the pins that entered the computer.
Do a ohms check from the computer connector to the knock sensor connector to aliminate a harness break in the circuit. Its the blue wire in the video. OL means theres a break, 5 ohms or less is perfect. Anymore than 5 ohms means that theres a high ristance point somewhere in the wire. At the time of the video i also had Autozone knock sensors and they where fine.
@@royrichardson9164 I bet, my car has mods. So I took it back to the shop who did my work and they hooked it up to their laptop, took it back to get inspected and it passed. They just bypass the code. But I'm going to replace the part next yr anyway
@@alexandermcdole8464 Do you live in California? Cause I have same error code on my Pontiac montana 2001 and I my mechanic rise up white flag because He replaced the knock sensor and the wire but light still on. I don't know what to do and I can't pass smog test. Just bought the car and seller disappeared!
@@tizianomammana no, I'm in upstate NY, my car is modded so I took it back too the shop that works on it and they did their laptop thing and it passed afterwards.I have know idea what they did but it worked. Wish I could help you.
@@alexandermcdole8464 Unfortunately I got my car from FB marketplace and the seller gave me a rip off so now I have to figure out by myself but as new immigrant in US I don't have knowledge and neither the mechanic found the issue after replacing speed sensor, knock sensor, wiring harness, and idle air control valve. I really would love to find someone like your shop which bypass the problem with a laptop! Thanks for your reply btw.
Will say this I had a issue with my 02 Tahoe with knock 1 so I had to take it to the shop since I don't have time to fix it due to my work. And this shop try to tell me things like I don't know nothing so I said yes replace both of one is bad and replace the wires also. So 498$ they claim to replace both knocks and wire harness within afew hrs to a day tops the check engine light comes back on and now it's showing knock 2 and I called the shop and even brought it back and they claim everything is fine and claim they replaced both knocks if that's the case then knock 2 wouldn't pop up. This is a major issue for the people who don't know anything bout vehicles and shops just keep wanting more money for parts and claim they can fix the issue. I was brought up around old school heads and mostly all muscle car mechanics so I know when a shop is bullshiting me. Let's not forget I also have a 05 dodge ram I had no time once again to replace another sensor on it so I took it to them and had it replaced paid cash and drove off not even one mile down road dodge shuts completely off without any power to stop good thing noone was in front otherwise I would of caused accident. So I was able to crank it up and drove back to that shop and toldem I'm not happy and the money I paid to replace a part so they had a boy come out and look inside engine he was quick to look and connect connectors that was causing the issue and I told him straight up thanks and it's likely whoever was working on truck was in a hurry or wanted me to come back to give more money that isn't needed. So since my dodge is running good I took the Tahoe there due to my work schedule of 3rd. I I would recommend anyone who goes to shops for either due to job schedule and not have time to fix or people who don't know anything to watch out for shops like this I'm talking about and call them out on they're bullshit and expose fake mechanics. I guess later today I'm gonna go ahead check everything myself and if the price I paid and they lied about the replacement I'm going to be beyond pissed with this place cause once you get into the area the shops work around will void it. Think for the sake of people worldwide if the issue occurs the same as it went in customers should by law get there money back in full and the shops should be shut down till they can get real mechanics and stop going by the damn internet pricing of labor you get poor labor the shop shouldn't get any money till it's like the vehicle just came off the lot brand new.
Have you asked a Chevy dealer repair tech about this issue? Run of the mill chops are good at replacing faulty parts, but troubleshooting this problem seems to be out of their league. Having same issue after replacing my sensors. May have to do with the type of noise the sensors hear after so much milage has gone by on the engine. Mine has 235K miles.
I relocated mine to bank 1 side of head there’s two empty threaded holes above the manifold (remove heat shield ) one by cylinder 3 and 5 I believe no more knock sensor codes I used sensors and a harness from 1a auto. I did this job 3 times all with AC delco parts and had the same codes each time with 100 ohm readings. So far this is working
Can anyone else vouch for this just curious if others have tried it and if it works
Try it and find out. Sounds solid. I have a small engine that needs to be level to run. Don't know why, but these two relate and it works in my head lol
I've read about this KS trick on LS1 forums, he's telling you a legit method👍
The whole engine is grounded anyway with 2 or 3 cables depending on the vehicle and many cars have KS on top of the block as well, GM decided to put them there👎
Thank you for the video man !
99% of these sensors are made by the same factories in China, even the GM (AC/Delco) branded ones. The key is to test the new sensors BEFORE you install them (that 95 - 107 ohm between the pin and the metal body of the sensor) and make sure you DO NOT over-tighten them and twist the sensor inside the body, which can break the electronics.
Just because they have the correct resistance doesn't mean they are good.
I'm guessing mine just went bad
What electricroncs brake
I’m having the same problem with a 2004 Chevy Suburban. I’ve also seen a few people here on TH-cam state that they were still having the same error code for the knock sensors even after they replaced the knock sensors with new ones. One person said that they solved the problem by using an electrical cleaning spray and cleaning the connectors in both the knock sensor harness and the connectors to the ecm too. I’m going to try and clean the connectors out with an electric cleaning spray and then follow up with everyone if this works.
Update: The electrical cleaning spray did fix the knock sensor low input fault that I had on my Suburban. I simply disconnected the battery, removed the two color connectors from the ECM, removed the ECM from the mount, inspected all male and female electrical connections, sprayed the electrical spray cleaner a couple of times and scrubbed using a pipe cleaner brush, and allowed 15 to 30 minutes for the cleaning solvent to dry before assembling everything again. I did find that some pins on my ECM were covered in green grime and some other ones were white. But after the cleaning process everything seems pretty good now. I did have issues getting the rubber seals between the ECM and connectors to sit in place correctly, this caused my vehicle not to reset the ECM properly. But after removing the rubber sealing gaskets completely off the ECM did reset itself properly and the vehicle started up fine again. The last part was frustrating and a hassle, as I thought that I might have had damaged the ECM during the cleaning process but the culprits were the rubber gasket seals. I’ll just have to be really careful and mindful from now on to try and not get water into that region from now on, and clean up the ECM and connectors often.
I saw a vid where they mentioned the same issue you’re talking about. I bought some of the CRC elec cleaner. I had one sensor throwing a code a while back and replaced both sensors and sub harness with the AC Delco OE GM part #s and ever since both sensor banks keep throwing the low voltage code, but both read good on ohms at the harness connector?! I really hope it works! - ‘03 Yukon 5.3
Interesting maybe I give this a shot I replaced them both and the code and check light will come and go randomly
Thank you so much… Replace my knock sensors on a 2000 Silverado 3.5…. Kept getting knocked sensor code… I took the wiring harness off of the ECM, cleaned all the connections, erased all the codes, the code has not come back, but it’s only been one day, so we’ll see in about a month….. again thank you for sharing your video
Did it come back?
All good?
When you disconnect the battery your resetting the computer and it will stay off for a few days is all. Use Premium gas next time and there's a good chance it will fix the problem. The problem is usually the caused by misfires from low octane gas.
95. Ohms to 107 ohms resistant resistance.
Did you ever solve this? I have issue where they both come on but if I delete the code with key on they don’t come back. It’s only when I reset pcm that it comes back
I'm having same issue with my 1997 Saturn SC2. They've replaced three different knock sensors with the last one being an AC Delco. Now the check engine light with same p0327 code is showing intermittently.
you have chance to see what specs are for the volts?
So you think the manifold removal is bad on your Silverado ?
Try that on my Camaro instead then talk, lol, I have the same condition you have only I know my sensors are fine after swapping the 19y.o corroded units last autumn, new harness, 2 ACD sensors and JB Weld engine RTV.
I even checked all the ground cables then soldered my old still working harness to some 100k Ohm resistors to simulate a perfect knock sensor, connected then drove and still got both damn codes this morning🤯
Now after taking apart my PCM today I'm pretty sure it's a ground issue somewhere that I'll have to find.
Kudos for taking apart that whole harness man, that looks like a pure desperation move...I hope it doesn't come to that with my impossible to work on engine bay.
Thanks for the video👍
I know this is an old video just wanted to share what I'm going through. I have a 2002 Saturn SC1 I'm getting code p0327. The symptoms I am having is the car jerking especially at lower speeds. Its a manual. losing power and the RPMs reving up on their own. I bought a brand new knock , replaced the wiring that goes from the knock sensor to the computer. am still getting that code and two new ones as well.
Pro tip, never probe the connector backbrobe from the wire side, you can easily creat another circuit problem by spreading the terminal.
Have you considered the possibility that the engine may be experiencing a real knocking condition.If that is so then the light will not turn off.
Victor Aberdeen good point, but the problem in this video was the computer connector was having the little prongs pushed out when you plugged the computer in. I changed the connector casing and all is good.
Yup gotta get OEM😏
I read somewhere that GM has a weird learn cycle for these knock sensors, after replacing them you are supposed to rev the engine to 4000-5000 RPM and hold it there for 3 seconds, then repeat once more. That will learn the ECU.
I just had the rear knock sensor code which was corroded with water in the hole when I took it apart. Replaced both sensors with acdelco and torqued/put it all back together without testing them (like an idiot)... Now I have the front sensor code. Just saw cj phillips video about that relearn procedure and thinking that may be my issue. Gonna try it tomorrow, just hope I didn't get a broken sensor
@@GA10TVDid it work?
@@rustyshackleford407 Nope!
@@GA10TV yeah didn’t for me either lol! I’m going to try some CRC Electronic cleaner on the ECM/PCM pins and harness connector. I don’t think my sensors are bad.
@rustyshackleford407 Hope that works! My front sensor probably just shipped bad so i'm gonna take it apart in a few days again... At least it has a warranty from autozone
May 26 2024 , hello , I have 2006 gmc 1500 Savana 5.3 L v8 . I have replied the knock sensor 2 x now . After driving 2000 miles the code po332 Knox/combustion vibration sensor 2 circuit low bank 2 . Why ?
I have cleaned the pins that connects to ECM and 2 wires come from harness that connects to Knock sensor connector . ( if this code come up I well just replace new pins and wires and not use the old wire in the harness)
I checked the continuity it is closed and good .
Question is ; how do I check the voltage of ECM ?
Also do I need to check if the new knock sensor is readin the knock from the motor three the wire to ECM . If o do how do I do this using a , Etekcity ( brand ) multimeter ?
What is the right voltage ? When it listen for the knocks , what is it supposed to read ?
What was it? My truck has had these codes for too long and still can’t figure it out! Such a pain
In all we replace both knock sensors the pigtail open the wiring loom to track down the wiring the wiring was fine it ended up being a corroded connector at the end towards the computer side it had a trace of lime green corrosion on it
I'm having the same issue with a 2001 Silverado , changed both knock sensors with acdelco and new wire harness and still getting the p0327 and p0332 codes , did you ever solve your issue ? if so I need help with mine
dan blank remove the connector to the engine computer clean it with CRC electrical cleaner let it dry check to see if any of the wiring on the plug is loose or pushed out reconnect and play
ok I will try that , do you know the volts I'm suppose to get from the pcm ? and do you know the ohms for the sensors
dan blank theres a youtube video intitled ( Tip Clip knock sensor testing )you should study. and i beleive its 75mv
ok I checked my ohms and it was 101 on both knock sensors ,, then I checked the a/c volts on the sensor and it was reading about 5-7 on meter while I taped block with hammer , sounds like the sensors are ok
sounds like my next step would be the wire going to pcm huh?
I back again , I replaced , AGAIN for the fourth time ,
used ac delco knock sensors,
15 ft lbs of torque
and use a GM wire harness , tested both sensors after installed ,
when I meter the knock sensors , I get .2 ac volts , when I tap on block this reading goes up to 8-12 ac volts
so I assume the knock sensors are working ok , that reading was straight on top of sensors , then hooked up the gm harness
and got about the same reading
so I put everything back together ,
and about 100 miles later , the dreaded p0332 and p0327 came back on , I have tried everything , and I don't know what to do anymore , so at a loss for words right now , I even check for resistance going to the pcm , it seamed fine
why why why is this such a headache
First did you test the knock sensors through the computer connector , and you may need to reflash the computer , to eliminate the possibility of curupt software, while checking for damaged computer components. The one I was dealing with was just a bad connection at the PCM connector I believe it was the blue one.
haven't tried that ,
ok I just checked truck again ,
I get 100 ohms on both sensors to the ground bolt , truck not running ,
I get ac volts from the semsors through the gm harness , do you know the specs for the proper ac volts
then I checked while running the pcm connector where it connects to the gm wire harness ,
I was getting 0.42 and 0.41 volts from the pcm ,
do you know the specs the volts the pcm suppose to be sending ?
I cleaned the pcm connection and the pigtail end with contact cleaner , ,
it had some corrosion on pcm pin , still not getting 5 volts from pcm
do u know the factory specs for this
dan blank I will try to find specs, and relay them to you.
just paid around 700 to have my knock sensors replaced in a 2004 chevy silverodo 4x4 v8 and not even a day later the codes came back what could this be
Are the knock Sensors Chevy O.E.M. knock Sensors? Aftermarket Sensors are Junk.
These knock sensor issues are utter hell. Replaced both 10 months back (one tested bad) with random aftermarket sensors and new plug harness (shortly after a new computer and whole new vehicle wiring harness was put in for unrelated issues). Those sensors appeared to fail a month apart, based on code (didn't test). I just redid the whole job with OEM to be sure, but pending low voltage codes again appeared for both sensors after the first drive cycle. Both read 100K ohms, so reasonably sure I got the connectors firmly seated on each sensor. So now I'm wondering if the first set of replacement sensors weren't actually bad, and it's something else entirely?
You probably have an actual engine knock
@@fiveninegarage if I have a exhaust leak and it’s ticking would it cause the sensors to turn the check engine light on?
@@fiveninegarage cause all I have is a tick I don’t hear any knocking
I replaced my sensors also. Still getting a check engine light when Suburban goes over 65mph. Did a ohm check going back to the ECM and got about 4.7K phms. So cable is good. Possibly bad ground from engine to chassis.
@@rogermerritt6470 I read that it takes a few drive cycles(20-30 cranks or 50-100 miles driven) to get the sensors fully set...🤷♂️.
If you're still getting codes after replacing knock sensors and clearing with scanner try resetting the ECM/ECU that's the only thing that I found to work.
Is resetting the ecu/ecm the same as clearing the codes
@@nathanplayz9506 No resetting the ECU sets everything back to Virgin factory settings. Clearing codes erases the codes but keeps the settings up to that point.
so I'm getting 0327 0332 i checked ecm and it did have some corrosion i cleaned and dielectric grease connector i replaced knock sensors and harness all gm acdelco parts still getting code
I'll fix it if for you
@@Teev132 so, give it up? how?
Cool guy
Having same issue except I used Delphi sensors and a doorman harness I will take it to my mechanic n see what he can find...
Any updates
@@rotsbelramos7685 yea took to mechanic had it removed with proper scan tool zapped the code
I’m wondering if anyone had experienced power loss like I have? Only codes I’m getting is for the knock sensors. I’ve replaced them twice and still getting the code only after highway speeds. Dealer confirmed the engine is perfect no knock what so ever. They said it was the PCM but a BRAND NEW PCM will not accept programming. Now they say it’s a wiring issue. Any advice? Anyone?
Spray brake cleaner really hard around bottom of the intake manifold. See if motor starts to react to it. If it does then its most likely intake manifold gasket leak. Reads as knock sensors and or random misfire
Mount them by the lifters it'll solve you problem
It was the knock sensors. Bought ac delco twice from GM. They are sh!t. I ended up going to a junk yard and getting OEM sensors out of a wrecked truck. Fixed the problem instantly.
@@robertm.1129 disculpe amigo, mejoro la potencia de su camioneta?
I tried to read ohms from the KS harness and got nothing.???
Ok, fist disconnect your battery. Then take off the connector that has the knock sensor blue wire at the computer end and connect positive test lead there, then connect the negative lead to the knock sensor connector end while you have the dmm set to ohms. And you should have 2 to 3 oms of resistance max less is preferable. Then let me know what you got.
Gilbert Galvan you mean right at the top of the manifold where the blue clip is ( the connection from the harness to the line that goes to the computer) on top, so I’ll unplug it and use my multimeter, my red positive to the computer end then the black one to the harness connector?
I keep getting a 327 and 332 code. I’ve replaced both knock sensors and the harness with GM parts. Both show 20 volts from the computer and 99 oems. Both respond to tapping on the exhaust manifolds with voltage ranging up to about 300 microvolts I think. What am I missing? An ideas? Please help
Any luck?
Do u mean milli ohms.
Im bouta just sell this truck tired of always having something wrong with it and same problems coming back
Dealer part
Did you come to a conclusion on this? What was the cause of the issue? I am working on 2002 camry v6. Got knock code for number 2 sensor. I replaced both knock sensors and harness. Test drove it for 15 miles and it drove like a dream. Headed home and it coded on the on ramp to the highway.... I coded for number 1 sensor...? Replaced both again and the wire harness for good measure. Same exact thing happened again, same test drive with same results..? Someone said the issue would be in the wire going from knock sensor wire harness to the computer. Do you have any thoughts?
Conshus yes the connector terminal to the computer was being pushed out when it was plugged in.
@@SuperDjnrg Was the conclusion the need to use OEM Knock sensors or the Actual terminal to the computer was the culprit(Bad connection to the computer; Assuming the same stands, Nothing to do with the wires integrity) ?
Thank You in Advance
If you can gain access to a pinout chart for your computer to tell you where the knock sensor pins are, you could do it ohms check with the knock sensors disconnected. Also check the length of each circuit to make sure they have the correct ohms. You're going to get either one of three readings, the correct ohms, ohms are too high, or open circuit .in my case it ended up being the pins that entered the computer.
@@SuperDjnrg Thank You Gilbert !
What do you charge for a job like this to get an idea of the price
Diagnosis was $65, repair was $60. And i talk to the client 3months later and truck still going strong.
@@SuperDjnrg thanks man appreciate the feedback
@@SuperDjnrg holy hell $105 buck to fix, i paid $650 crazy stuff i guess
@@ManthatsCool100 aw man, I feel for you 😢
We went with duralast parts and the light came back on. Ya think it’s just the parts?
I dont think so , unless it was dropped during shipping or installation. My problem was at the connection at the computer.
Do a ohms check from the computer connector to the knock sensor connector to aliminate a harness break in the circuit. Its the blue wire in the video. OL means theres a break, 5 ohms or less is perfect. Anymore than 5 ohms means that theres a high ristance point somewhere in the wire. At the time of the video i also had Autozone knock sensors and they where fine.
Gilbert Galvan ok, thanks. I appreciate it. I’ll plug the multimeter in and see what’s up. Great video, take care!
I know this video is old but, I'm going through the same problems 🤦.
So am I and I'm getting tired of this truck
@@royrichardson9164 I bet, my car has mods. So I took it back to the shop who did my work and they hooked it up to their laptop, took it back to get inspected and it passed. They just bypass the code. But I'm going to replace the part next yr anyway
@@alexandermcdole8464 Do you live in California? Cause I have same error code on my Pontiac montana 2001 and I my mechanic rise up white flag because He replaced the knock sensor and the wire but light still on. I don't know what to do and I can't pass smog test. Just bought the car and seller disappeared!
@@tizianomammana no, I'm in upstate NY, my car is modded so I took it back too the shop that works on it and they did their laptop thing and it passed afterwards.I have know idea what they did but it worked. Wish I could help you.
@@alexandermcdole8464 Unfortunately I got my car from FB marketplace and the seller gave me a rip off so now I have to figure out by myself but as new immigrant in US I don't have knowledge and neither the mechanic found the issue after replacing speed sensor, knock sensor, wiring harness, and idle air control valve. I really would love to find someone like your shop which bypass the problem with a laptop! Thanks for your reply btw.
A wiring schematic……😮
Inbox me a price on that SS on f.b.
Hit me up if your having problems with knock sensors I'll fix them in 30 min
how u do that
???? help boss
Solution: Switch to Premium gas and it will fix your problem.
Cats
Will say this I had a issue with my 02 Tahoe with knock 1 so I had to take it to the shop since I don't have time to fix it due to my work. And this shop try to tell me things like I don't know nothing so I said yes replace both of one is bad and replace the wires also. So 498$ they claim to replace both knocks and wire harness within afew hrs to a day tops the check engine light comes back on and now it's showing knock 2 and I called the shop and even brought it back and they claim everything is fine and claim they replaced both knocks if that's the case then knock 2 wouldn't pop up. This is a major issue for the people who don't know anything bout vehicles and shops just keep wanting more money for parts and claim they can fix the issue. I was brought up around old school heads and mostly all muscle car mechanics so I know when a shop is bullshiting me. Let's not forget I also have a 05 dodge ram I had no time once again to replace another sensor on it so I took it to them and had it replaced paid cash and drove off not even one mile down road dodge shuts completely off without any power to stop good thing noone was in front otherwise I would of caused accident. So I was able to crank it up and drove back to that shop and toldem I'm not happy and the money I paid to replace a part so they had a boy come out and look inside engine he was quick to look and connect connectors that was causing the issue and I told him straight up thanks and it's likely whoever was working on truck was in a hurry or wanted me to come back to give more money that isn't needed. So since my dodge is running good I took the Tahoe there due to my work schedule of 3rd. I I would recommend anyone who goes to shops for either due to job schedule and not have time to fix or people who don't know anything to watch out for shops like this I'm talking about and call them out on they're bullshit and expose fake mechanics. I guess later today I'm gonna go ahead check everything myself and if the price I paid and they lied about the replacement I'm going to be beyond pissed with this place cause once you get into the area the shops work around will void it. Think for the sake of people worldwide if the issue occurs the same as it went in customers should by law get there money back in full and the shops should be shut down till they can get real mechanics and stop going by the damn internet pricing of labor you get poor labor the shop shouldn't get any money till it's like the vehicle just came off the lot brand new.
Have you asked a Chevy dealer repair tech about this issue? Run of the mill chops are good at replacing faulty parts, but troubleshooting this problem seems to be out of their league. Having same issue after replacing my sensors. May have to do with the type of noise the sensors hear after so much milage has gone by on the engine. Mine has 235K miles.