The impeller removes easily once one knows how. You simply need to grasp the gold colored weighted flywheel under the motor connection housing with a vice grips, or other wrench. My impeller came off quite easy with this small resistance. Remember to have the ceramic portion of the inner seal facing out. And take some time to clean the copper part of the inner housing to allow that inner seal to seat cleanly.
Thank you for all your help. As a woman things can be difficult. Your guidance allowed me to replace my seal with very little/no problems. Thumbs up!!!!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I inadvertently ran the filter/pump without inserting the basket in the pump and clogged the impeller with debris. I looked to the internet regarding low pressure and was directed to information about the impeller. The fix of trying to scrape out the debris with a wire was ineffective, I knew I needed to get in there. Great step by step information, I followed the instructions and fixed the issue. There is a part missing about how to hold the shaft while twisting the impeller counter-clockwise. The back cap of the motor must be removed (yet another video) and you must hold the flat part of the shaft with a pair of pliers while turning the impeller counter-clockwise. I had some difficulty reattaching the motor, getting it to sit flush to reattach the clamp, but a bit of lube on the interior O-ring (on the diffuser) solved that problem.
Great video. My pressure indicator is reading low and I suspect foreign objects (leaves) are in my impeller. Thank you for posting this. I now feel like I can at lease look inside and check it out myself. You may have saved me a lot of money. Thank you from sunny California!
on most max e's there is a reverse thread bolt inside the impeller and must be removed before impeller removal ! .. prime the pump after any pump repairs
how do you secure the shaft? taking channel locks to the odd thing in the back? what tool should you use to turn the impellor? it wont come off using bare hands
If you have this Sta-rite pump and you need to replace the motor or make any other repairs, I suggest replacing the entire motor and pump assembly with a Hayward unit. They are much easier to work on. This Sta-rite pump is a pain in the ass. I'm a pool service professional.
I noticed you did not use the Pentair Seal Plate Insert Sta-Rite (C3-186). I took apart my pump (looks the same as your in this video) and my pump does not have this part either. However, I am confused because when I look at the schematic for this pump it is in fact there. Please confirm if this part is needed or not. Thanks and be well.
Hi, i have same model pump and have run in to an issue. When i screw the diffuser down my impeller can no longer move. Any ideas what can cause this? All new OEM parts going on being installed. Thank you
I have a Dura-Glass II pool pump, driven by a 1 1/2 hp motor. I recently replaced the motor, shaft seal, diffuser o-ring and pump o-ring. The system runs fine except for a small drip from the where the 2 parts of the pump are banded together. I used plenty of silicon lubricant when installing the O-rings. Any tips on stopping the annoying drip
After putting a new seal and O-ring kit on my StaRite Maxiglass II, I also had a drip coming from under the pump band. I was dumbfounded. Logic tells me if there is a drip from there, it has to be the large O-ring. After wasting an hour cracking the case 3 times and checking the O-ring was in the groove, I finally noticed a tiny hole in the bottom of the case. I then noticed that hole led to a drain plug. Low and behold, I unscrewed the drain plug and it had a cracked O-Ring. Replaced the plug O-ring and voila, no drip!
nice effort, but there are things you missed out. when I try to remove my front plate (the 4 bolts) it won't come off because of the spring thing at the end of the shaft, and I have no idea how to get that off. Also, it would be nice to see exactly WHERE to secure the motor to be able to screw the diffuser on and off. I am assuming you have to place a wrench somewhere inside to grab the shaft, but no clue where..
Agreed. The center of my old impeller is stuck to the shaft so after removing the 4 bolts, nothing will come off. The assembly at the end of the shaft is keeping everything together. I tried holding the spring thing around the base of the shaft (heh) with vice grips and using another pair to turn the old impeller part. But, no joy. The spring thing just turns so no obvious way to unscrew the assembly. Maybe a bolt screws into the end for leverage. I'll try to find one that fits. UPDATE: I didn't realize that the shaft was exposed at the base end of the motor assembly. So I unscrewed that, held the shaft with grips, removed the assembly at the other end... now I'm going to watch the video again to see if I need to lubricate this stuff.
Hi, I did everything according to this video...but when I tried to put the pump back to the face plate, to put back the ring, I am having difficulties. The motor is not going in all the way in so that the ring can be put on to tighten. What could be the problem?
Can you send a photo to info@poolplaza.com of the motor and seal plate and one of the front part with the impeller and diffuser?. Maybe we can figure it out. Carl
As usual, and in all these videos, no-one explains how to unscrew the impaller. Your vid is no exception. On Sta-Rite, blocking the other end of the shaft and turning the impaller will not work that easy. I can't do it to be honest, it is WAY too tightened... Can't find any solution that would preserve the impaller.......
I suggest replacing the entire motor and pump assembly with a Hayward unit. They are much easier to work on. This Sta-rite pump is a pain in the ass. I'm a pool service professional.
You didn't even show us how to replace the large seal, I've been trying to replace that large seal on the pump housing and it keeps falling out of the square Grover I've been using silicone lube
WARNING: useless use of 7 minutes!!! Don't watch if you actually are trying to REPAIR your pump. great but no coverage of impeller removal AND you didn't actually repair it NOR mention what to look for to repair.
![ทางเดินชีวิต - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ x อ.ไข่ มาลีฮวนน่า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1f3wcG16dd4/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is most helpful because the gentleman shows the correct orientation. Other videos seem to show how fast the work can be done.
The impeller removes easily once one knows how. You simply need to grasp the gold colored weighted flywheel under the motor connection housing with a vice grips, or other wrench. My impeller came off quite easy with this small resistance. Remember to have the ceramic portion of the inner seal facing out. And take some time to clean the copper part of the inner housing to allow that inner seal to seat cleanly.
Thank you for all your help. As a woman things can be difficult. Your guidance allowed me to replace my seal with very little/no problems. Thumbs up!!!!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I inadvertently ran the filter/pump without inserting the basket in the pump and clogged the impeller with debris. I looked to the internet regarding low pressure and was directed to information about the impeller. The fix of trying to scrape out the debris with a wire was ineffective, I knew I needed to get in there.
Great step by step information, I followed the instructions and fixed the issue. There is a part missing about how to hold the shaft while twisting the impeller counter-clockwise. The back cap of the motor must be removed (yet another video) and you must hold the flat part of the shaft with a pair of pliers while turning the impeller counter-clockwise.
I had some difficulty reattaching the motor, getting it to sit flush to reattach the clamp, but a bit of lube on the interior O-ring (on the diffuser) solved that problem.
Success. My impeller was clogged with leaves. Everything is working, pressure is back up. Thanks again for the video!
Great video. My pressure indicator is reading low and I suspect foreign objects (leaves) are in my impeller. Thank you for posting this. I now feel like I can at lease look inside and check it out myself. You may have saved me a lot of money. Thank you from sunny California!
Thank you sir! You have helped a family in Ontario in Canada.
Great video very clear about which way the seals face!
Thank you I ordered a new pump from you had no idea what way shaft seal went on very happy,hot day in nor cal
Great video thank you sir
Great video. You saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you. This was very helpful
Thanks! great video, but put everything back together and can not get it to stop leaking from the clamp area.
Concise and clear instructions. Thank you!
GREAT JOB, I DID MINE'S WITHOUT LOOKING AT THIS VIDEO!
on most max e's there is a reverse thread bolt inside the impeller and must be removed before impeller removal ! .. prime the pump after any pump repairs
how do you secure the shaft? taking channel locks to the odd thing in the back?
what tool should you use to turn the impellor? it wont come off using bare hands
If you have this Sta-rite pump and you need to replace the motor or make any other repairs, I suggest replacing the entire motor and pump assembly with a Hayward unit. They are much easier to work on. This Sta-rite pump is a pain in the ass. I'm a pool service professional.
I noticed you did not use the Pentair Seal Plate Insert Sta-Rite (C3-186). I took apart my pump (looks the same as your in this video) and my pump does not have this part either. However, I am confused because when I look at the schematic for this pump it is in fact there. Please confirm if this part is needed or not. Thanks and be well.
Hi, i have same model pump and have run in to an issue. When i screw the diffuser down my impeller can no longer move. Any ideas what can cause this? All new OEM parts going on being installed. Thank you
Thank you - very helpful!
I have a sta-rite max e pro pump with our pool that the motor is getting louder and louder
I have a Dura-Glass II pool pump, driven by a 1 1/2 hp motor. I recently replaced the motor, shaft seal, diffuser o-ring and pump o-ring. The system runs fine except for a small drip from the where the 2 parts of the pump are banded together. I used plenty of silicon lubricant when installing the O-rings. Any tips on stopping the annoying drip
After putting a new seal and O-ring kit on my StaRite Maxiglass II, I also had a drip coming from under the pump band. I was dumbfounded. Logic tells me if there is a drip from there, it has to be the large O-ring. After wasting an hour cracking the case 3 times and checking the O-ring was in the groove, I finally noticed a tiny hole in the bottom of the case. I then noticed that hole led to a drain plug. Low and behold, I unscrewed the drain plug and it had a cracked O-Ring. Replaced the plug O-ring and voila, no drip!
I can't figure out how to lock the defuser while I turn it
nice effort, but there are things you missed out. when I try to remove my front plate (the 4 bolts) it won't come off because of the spring thing at the end of the shaft, and I have no idea how to get that off. Also, it would be nice to see exactly WHERE to secure the motor to be able to screw the diffuser on and off. I am assuming you have to place a wrench somewhere inside to grab the shaft, but no clue where..
Agreed. The center of my old impeller is stuck to the shaft so after removing the 4 bolts, nothing will come off. The assembly at the end of the shaft is keeping everything together. I tried holding the spring thing around the base of the shaft (heh) with vice grips and using another pair to turn the old impeller part. But, no joy. The spring thing just turns so no obvious way to unscrew the assembly. Maybe a bolt screws into the end for leverage. I'll try to find one that fits. UPDATE: I didn't realize that the shaft was exposed at the base end of the motor assembly. So I unscrewed that, held the shaft with grips, removed the assembly at the other end... now I'm going to watch the video again to see if I need to lubricate this stuff.
the HARDEST part of this job is removing the impellor-HE SKIPS RIGHT OVER IT
I blocked the shaft with a screwdriver and unscrew the impaler with my pliers, worked great
Hi, I did everything according to this video...but when I tried to put the pump back to the face plate, to put back the ring, I am having difficulties. The motor is not going in all the way in so that the ring can be put on to tighten. What could be the problem?
Can you send a photo to info@poolplaza.com of the motor and seal plate and one of the front part with the impeller and diffuser?. Maybe we can figure it out. Carl
As usual, and in all these videos, no-one explains how to unscrew the impaller. Your vid is no exception. On Sta-Rite, blocking the other end of the shaft and turning the impaller will not work that easy. I can't do it to be honest, it is WAY too tightened... Can't find any solution that would preserve the impaller.......
I suggest replacing the entire motor and pump assembly with a Hayward unit. They are much easier to work on. This Sta-rite pump is a pain in the ass. I'm a pool service professional.
You didn't even show us how to replace the large seal, I've been trying to replace that large seal on the pump housing and it keeps falling out of the square Grover I've been using silicone lube
WARNING: useless use of 7 minutes!!! Don't watch if you actually are trying to REPAIR your pump.
great but no coverage of impeller removal AND you didn't actually repair it NOR mention what to look for to repair.