Fuel Injector Testing with basic tools (noid light, test light)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มี.ค. 2014
- This is Part 1 of a 4 part series on ScannerDanner Premium (Chapter 18 Fuel Injector Testing)
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You are Only one Danner you are making me to be a professional and advanced Auto Electrician. And Now I'm able to Diagnose, troubleshooting and Repairs Different Auto Electrical Related Faults which other run away.
Thanks God bless you Danner ❤
I love to see your videos, they are awesome. thank you for share your knowledge with us. God bless your family and you too.
Thank you as we speak I'm learning from your videos thanks again
I love your videos! I think after 22 years in the field I have found a great refresher for my thought processes on vehicles. I wanted to make one comment on a situation I had with an injector once and it was really random but hard to diag. I had pulse and sound unfortunately I didn't have a pressure drop tool or would have made it easier but what I found was a weird deposit almost like a calcium deposit at the end of the rail where this injector lived. Plugged the rail up keeping the injector from getting fuel. Sometimes you think one test or couple test should do it but sometimes all test are required.
I've heard about that on the early returnless fuel systems but have never seen it. Good find and tip. Thanks!
That was good refresher Paul.
From now on, when a vehicle with suspected wheel bearing noise rocks up in our workshop, I'm gonna tell the boys to get me the broom stick and we are going to carry out the Macgyver Test. I like to use stethoscope, but long screwdriver test is very handy, it cancels "background" noises, this the kind of trick, that we should be passing on to the younger generation.
I looked at it every day good info
Binge watching while trying to diagnose my car. Thank you for these videos
Nice! What are you dealing with? Maybe I can help. It is always easier to help someone when they've done some homework first
I've got premium but watched this incase I missed somthing . Can't get to much of scannerdanner . Cheers for another great video .
According to my Bosch book, there are passive protective circuits using resistors and capacitors, and active circuits using special surge proof semiconductor elements to limit the voltage of the input signals to acceptable levels. Your testing methods won't hurt the PCM due to this. The book is Automotive Electrics, Automotive Electronics by Bosch. ISBN 1-86058-436-5.
I would also like to thank you for all the effort you put into your videos. As an ex mechanic myself, I have still learned a huge amount about diagnostics from you.
thanks so much for the info and feedback!
Good lecture. Must review again.
Thanks for Sharing the Premium Video! Getting ready to buy your E-Book!
thank you!
Great stuff, thanks
Thank you for this video. You have some of the best content. I will be subscribing to your premium channel and getting your book, WHEN I GET SOME PAPER!! But it really is that good
Thank you!
Hey Paul, 96 Nissan Sentra no start, no injector pulse. I really don't want it to be the pcm. I still uave to do the cam sensor bypass test and check those 2 signal wires to see if input is good. I do have good spar though, which scares me more... also I noticed that my test light to control wire light when the key is off, the light stays on. Does the drives grounds with the key off?
Cool thanks bro I will definitely be ordering one as soon as my next check comes in
thank you!
Hi ! I definitely going to buy your book is full of information....is great !
I have a question....how do you recommend to test for random misfire on a vehicle with no access to coils or injectors...I'm talking about Chrysler pacifica 2006.....
Thank you.
invaluable information
If you do not mind ,about how many hours labor do you charge your garages with a problem like the one you had at pe's with a Toyota p171lean code.thank you! For the book I just bought.
great info....i am saving up for your book....bob
Thanks Bob!
hi scanner danner gonna get the premium when dividends come out up here in Alaska love your vidoes yout teaching style is very effective especially for guys like me who don't catch on quickly all the time I am am aspiring Subaru tech
Where can I find more about the pin drag test?
Very good.
I'm wondering since you do aftermarket cars out of warranty. You should start seeing hybrids that are out of warranty. you will love it, I think due to dealing with inverters and 3 phase ac motors. You are now getting into GDI. I think Audi started getting into it in the late late 90's and winning lemans many times with the technology. Would be cool to see you hook up the verus to a front loader washing machine Hall effect sensor.
Good emphasis Paul on the current draw of a test lamp compared to the injector. When I am helping out with someone at work and we are troubleshooting a output device I ask them the same question. If the component is rated at 2 amps, 1 amp, and your test device is under that, say 200 milli amps or .5 an amp or 1 amp, you are not going to damage anything. This is where I stress to other techs that knowing ohm's law is important. Ohm's law is your friend. Plus once you figure it out, it is not hard to understand the relationship between volts, ohms, and amps.
for sure. I get tired of hearing "you should never use a test light on a computer circuit"
thanks for your feedback and support!
hey paul am i able to subscribe to ur premium channel from my smartphone! am im sute i can speak for thousanfs of ppl also but thank man for mkin these videos ive been looking for knowledge like u give in ur lectures it has helped me out in the field tremdously! keep up the gd work an us techs out there truly appreaciate the info u put out there!!
thank you so much Chris! It is great to hear the difference it is making and I am thankful for my on-line students like you. I wish my own students were as dedicated
10:39
so wouldnt it be best to ditch the noid light and throw a test light bulb that draws around same amperage?and because your using a bulb that draws the same amps the circuit was designed to draw no worry of hurting pcm/driver .i know many fear test lights on pcm wires but as long as im using a bulb that draws the same amperage as device we should have no worrys right?
Hi scannerdanner I purche your ebook I think 2 year’s now I just need to know where to log in again and download and also need passworth
how do you sing to premium class
Great lecture! At the end I kind of laughed because you started going fire and brimstone with the 12 volt test lamp. You don't stand on top of the desk and go all out do ya?
haha not usually :)
I use a Solus Pro scanner which you know doesn't have a built in scope. Upgrading to a Modis or Verus is financially out of the question at this time. Is there an affordable stand alone scope that you would recommend? Great video by the way.
Thanks for sharing this premium video. Based on your previous lessons, if you replace the $2000 computer/driver. Would we not be concerned that we could fry the new computer/driver as well? We would want to to know what fried the computer/driver in the first place? Possibly an injector voltage spike?
agree 100% and I believe I cover that in one of the other lectures in this chapter.
Thanks!
A scope got you In trouble and not the noid light???
Thank you is there any fee to have download or how much is it. Thanks for reply and your awesome on explaining everything and by the way learn a lot from your videos thanks keep up with the good work
the pro version is expensive, the DIY version you can pay for access to single cars for 10 or $20 for a period of time. Google search it.
For me, the noid flashes for a few seconds, then cuts out. #4 cylinder, 03 slk320. Please help. Ty.
does your premium class cover vantage pro class ???
iam trying to do relative compression check that works fine but can get second channel to pick up on eignition
Yes, it does.
To get a second channel sync. Use the coil primary circuit. For more information, subscribe to my forum and post this question there. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures and waveforms to help guide you through the process. www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
I have a v8 range rover 1998 that is cranking but not starting. There is no spark, no injector pulse, no current to the injector with the KOEO. I have checked the power center ( fuses and relay ) everything checks out to be ok. But still no current to the injector when you switch the ignition on. In addition, I have checked the throttle sensor connector. There is dc current but no ground through the wires. Please what should I check next. The only code I saw was p1842 and p1843. Help me please.
I love you video classes !!! if some day I see you I want to hug you men,, I like womens jaja
This helped me immensely to solve the gas dripping from the tail pipe issue I have with my daughters 05 Ford 500.
I found 5 skinned wires on the wiring harness and repaired those. Turns out its very common on these vehicles to wear into the PCM harness wires where they lay right on the AC line near the firewall. I hoped that would fix it but it did not. The shorted wires may have damaged the PCM.
My grounded out #4 injector signal wire does not light the test light after unplugging the correct plug at the PCM while the 12V supply stays hot to all injectors. Its the only one that stays grounded with the KOEO. Also when cranking it does flash but never goes completely out. So I guess I need a computer.
That sounds like a short to ground in the harness on the #4 injector. With the #4 injector unplugged, connect test light to battery positive (not an LED test light but a regular incandescent style), is your test light lit constantly?
Ok what i did real quick was to unplug the injector harness near the intake. None of the pins are grounded going to the injectors.
Checking the plug towards the PCM the #4 injecter tan/light blue stripe is grounded Key on or off makes no difference, it lights the test light.
If I unplug it then from the computer the light goes out. Also with the plug out of the PCM if I touch the pin that sends #4 signal I get a constant ground there key on or off. The test light lights up. Thanks!
According to my diagram the #4 is a brown/light blue wire. This goes to pin #5 on the PCM connector. Are you sure you have identified the correct wire on the PCM?
Also, are you using an LED test light or incandescent test light? It NEEDS to be an incandescent style for what we are doing.
For everything you described above, the only scenario that fits would be ALL of the following conditions concurring at the same time, which seems very unlikely to me, though you did say there was harness damage (which could have taken out the driver for the #4 injector)
1. the #4 injector control wire is open
2. the driver for the #4 injector is shorted
So how do we have a #4 injector control wire that is open at the same time the #4 driver is shorted?
With the #4 injector control wire open, this means NO FUEL would ever come out of it, so this wouldn't cause fuel dripping out of the exhaust as you described. The shorted injector driver would, but you said the circuit at the injector itself is not shorted.
Too many conflicting variables here for me.
I have a 99 chevy blazer 4.3 vortec motor need a fuel pressure regulator how do I change this.
+Paul Brotherton th-cam.com/video/09_wQ9yQ85A/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/dAAFM3zlJME/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/yjQY613sql4/w-d-xo.html
Which website you use to get electric diagrams in your videos to check powers and grounds etc
I use Mitchell On Demand. There is a DIY version called Mitchell 1
Please help I have a 05 Chrysler 300c 5.7 injector #1 is only code I have for open circuit the car smokes white raw fuel. Disconnected #1 and still smokes raw fuel but it's only code and only one to stay lit with noid. Can't do it koeo no power. Would checking continuity from pcm control wire to injector control wire tell me it's shorted? The other wire for power I got no idea were it goes but I just located the ctrl wire to pin 14 on pcm
This should help you th-cam.com/video/FOwwFIWQhsQ/w-d-xo.html
SCANNERDANNER, old classic cars in the 60's and 70's only used "one" ignition coil that the distributor cap has the prefix set firing order. The distributor cap has contacts and conductor paths inside the distributor cap that is prefixed set a firing order for the car. The fuel injector cars use multiple separated ignition coils for each spark plug compared to the old classic cars in the 60s & 70s only used "One" Ignition coil for all the spark plugs. The Coil of Plug COP uses 4 to 6 different ignition coils compared to 60s & 70s cars only use ONE ignition coil. Any reasons why you need so many ignition coils for each fuel injector and spark plug compared to older classic cars only used One ignition coil to fire all 8 spark plugs?
Thank you for all your videos is their anyway I can purchase a hard copy?
yes, they are available at www.aeswave.com
Thanks!
ScannerDanner is it updated, because i saw in some of your videos that added info or corrected some things
Does your E Book or hard bound book come with the premium channel for free?
no, they are separate, but I do give away some of the lecture videos (7 of them I believe, with over 2 hours of material) with the purchase of the eBook/book
Thanks for your interest!
I have a question . Does a low compretion on newer systems afect and cut injector?
+erickvqz77 yes, it can. a misfire of any kind may cause the computer to cut injector pulse but here is the key. It is never on start up.
+ScannerDanner thanks for take some of your value time to answer our questions👍
Can you run the same kinds of test on a Cat ECM?
yep
Wish cars come with GDI.?
What to do if the injectors are hidden or on the rear bank? Thanks
You'd measure the control wire at the PCM or monitor current ramps from a common fuse
if with the ammeter you see 0.1 amperes at idle, what is the problem?
If you're using a digital multimeter for that measurement, it's not fast enough to catch the short current pulses of the circuit.
@@ScannerDanner οκ thanks YOU ARE RIGHT NOW I USED clamp on amp meter DIGITAL AND I SEE 0,6 - 1V AT IDLE AND I USED TO BAD INJECTOR AND I SEE AT IDLE 4 -5 VOLT I THINK THAT IF I DON'T HAVE PICO I WILL MAKE THE DIAGNOSIS WITH ΑΜP CLAMP METER DIGITAL
This is very similar to the one published in 22/01/2012 in this channel if not the same.
Sorry about that. I forgot I uploaded a video on noid light testing in the past. It is definitely not the same video though, I just recorded this one. It is part 1 of a 4 part series on this chapter in my eBook/book.
Thanks for the heads up