I won young tech award from SD/aeswave 4 years or some ago. I got a Uscope and a couple hundred bucks in AESwave store credit. Winning that gave the the drive to keep pushing and I now own a mobile diagnostic and programming company. All started here on this channel for me
@ScannerDanner least i can do. Your channel has seriously changed my life man. I was watching your videos before I ever entered the industry. You showed me a side of the industry I didn't know existed. At 28 years old I enrolled in a technical college to chase that passion. With in a few months of being in school I was placed in a shop as a diag tech and it was all due to the knowledge I learned from your channel all those years prior. I would have never had the skill to be able to start my own business 5 years in if it was for all those hours of watching and rewatching your early videos
@kdautomotive1165 thank you so much for this feedback. You know what's truly awesome? You're the one that made that happen. Most don't have that dedication. I have the material, but it takes someone with an interest and passion to make something out of it. So props to you again
Great lesson . Too bad Hyundai puts the fuel pressure regulator on the pump in the tank . Too many shops use their " Big Toe " to test . Result : Melted WALLET ! 😂
I was an average tec. I did a ton of courses bought your book, did your online course. Watched every sd premium and TH-cam video. Got a degree. Now I train technician's. All thanks to your teachings.
I was one of the recipients of a SD and AES tool grant years ago. I bought the advanced terminal tool kit from AES and it comes in very handy all the time for front probing or pin drag testing. Thanks so much for all you do for this industry. 👍👍
I enjoy the in depth info you give at each step, including the "quick" followup of "just the car running" for the last 12 mins including autopsy of a fuel pump assembly
@@ScannerDannerI just bought your book from AES Wave. I have been a tech since 1996 but I continue to learn from you. Looking forward to getting the book. Thanks buddy. Jason
Super grateful for the help with a new 60/20amp clamp when I melted mine, not sure how many years ago it was, but at the time Paul helped me get a new low amp clamp from ASE. Super awesome program, thank you again...
Great video again Paul, as a 19 year old tech who’s been out of tech school for not even a year, I’ve been able to gain advanced diagnostic knowledge from you and others that leaves even the old timers surprised, keep them coming
Scanner Danner is a MASTER DIAGNOSTIC MAN and Teacher, I don't know how he doesn't have many many more subscribers 🙄 I guess ppl prefer to replace parts lol 🤣 I love your videos sir 👌👌
Great video, Paul. I always learn things by watching your videos. FYI...I've seen a few videos from the machinist who's building the stroker motor for your truck and that thing is gonna' be a monster! That guy really knows what he's doing.
This youtube channel is so good. Its a learning channel, a comunity service and a comedy channel this is really good stuff. I wish this was on cable. I would never leave the house.
Paul. I used some of those techniques to diagnose a tractor AC in a field 30 miles away over the phone with my grandson doing the work. Thanks from this 70 yr old retired tech ‼️
I was really anxious to know more about the cause of the pump motor failure and you sir did not disappoint. Thank you for another great video! Keep up the good work. I wish you and yours all the best with your endeavours.
I like when you pulled power from your T-pin at the pump.. switch around the test light and check for ground.. that was slick. I personally know of several times that I chose to pull power from a long jumper cable from the battery.. but I learned something today. Power was right there, and I didn't even think of using it. lol.
Nice! Did you notice that when I do that, I'll always backprobe one side then frontprobe the other? To make sure they don't touch each other, which could be real bad if you're testing a solenoid (fry the driver)
The incandescent test light is my favorite tool, well other than my pocket screwdriver. Love the go no go voltage drop test. I appreciate your encouragement when I started my TH-cam channel a few years ago you gave me great feedback, which was very helpful. Just about to go over 20k subs next month. :)
On the empty tank comment. In the early years of my career I worked in a shop where the owner did the “diag” if you call it that anyway. He decided the truck needed a pump despite hearing it come on, so I drop the tank and find a completely dry tank 😂 To top it the truck belonged to a local towing and tire shop who didn’t think to put gas in it. Great video
@@ScannerDanner much better took about 2 years to kinda get better but i can finally see the top of the hill almost gave up several times but friends and people like you and other youtubers kept me going.
Great point about starting fluid operating on the diesel effect. Compression alone being enough to ignite it without spark. Having a bore scope for certain tasks is a game changer.
Can translate that,: I like your videos, I don't understand English but with you I learn to diagnose and English also, thanks bro. As for me; Paul and Caleb you share so much I don't know, always looking forward to your videos. Thanks for keeping that energetic drive to share knowledge. Much appreciated in my part.
What are the odds I’m just watching your no starts for fun.. I just saw that kegger video!! Totally forgot about the tank step as well.. I’m following along now but man these videos are so fun trying to guess what route to take next. I appreciate these videos Paul! It’s always exciting to try and answer your questions you ask us.. if I was in the woods.. what would I use without the tools!!! I think you should do those! Old school tests since the scan tool treatment is such a pampered Cadillac ride! Also I watched the Santa Fe video before the 6.0 video. A lot of stuff I’m bringing up but, just writing this with excitement in mind since I haven’t finished the video yet!! I’m gonna guess fuel pump. Never would have guessed that broken wire on the 6.0 though!!
that's one good thuing about hyundais, from what I seen the majority if not all have a fuel pump access under rear seat or trunk. if not for rusty bolts you can slam a pump assembly in them in about 30 minutes.
Idea for the test light, Paul. I have the same OTC, bought years ago after starting to watch and follow your teachings. I HATED the clamp on it, it would always fall off, the boot would cover it and make it difficult to attach on some locations. I cut mine off and put in a banana jack. Now I can use alligator clips, backprobe pins, whatever banana jack accessories I have. Such a small thing but made a huge difference. Hope that helps!
I thought that was what kind of test light that he was developing with AES Wave when he first mentioned coming out with his own test light a couple of years ago or so. I have the same OTC 3633 test light and I hate the clamp on it. It's very flimsy. I love the rest of the light though.
It is. It will have the 4mm banana style plug at the end of it when it is complete. It will also have a 4mm male adapter that you can thread onto the pointed end
I always start with a code read.. It just gives too much info all at once to avoid it... I never get tired of watching a good relay test though.. good stuff
The way the Uactivate tool works is that when you push the button on the side, the color of the LED light tells you which test port on top of the tool is the power side of the load side of the relay circuit. In your case it lit up red which means the red port on top of the tool was your power side which also showed it above the 30 designation on the tool which means pin 30 in the fuse box for the relay is power. In this case it also means that the green port or pin 87 is the load/ground side which goes down to the component you are testing. If the 87a LED light lights up it will be either red or blue. Red means that the red port on top is the power side and that the blue port is the Load/ground side. If the 87a LED lights up blue, it means that the blue port on top is the power side and that the red port is the Load/ground side. If there is no LED light at all when pressing the button, it means that there is no power, circuit has an open, or no circuit. The LED lights for the 85 and 86 ports on the lower portion of the tools shows which side is the power side of the control side of the relay. If the LED lights up green, the power side is the green 85 port and if it lights up red, the power side is the red 86 port. If there is no LED light showing, it means that there is no power, the circuit is open, or the relay control driver is not activated.
I got that now thanks. Circuit identification with the different color bulbs is nice but I'd rather sacrifice that and have an incandescent bulb in there (on the load side) for the test I was doing. I always have my test light when I'm using the uActivate anyway, so I can determine polarity on my own. Just my opinion. But great tool and great idea with how it is set up
@@ScannerDanner I think the LED lights are just to give a quick indication of if you have power to the control and load sides of the relay and which pins supply that power and not to load test anything. I imagine the test ports are there to do what you ultimately did with your test light and to test for power or ground. Nice diag as usual. Keep the content coming.
Hey man I don't usually say s*** I usually just sit here and watch the videos and at least smack the thumbs up so I figured at least take a moment to say Thanks for the help throughout the years
Thanks for sharing SD👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Kindly reserve 2 SD limited test lights for me, I really want them😍😍😍 Special Thanks to cameraman Caleb😎 Stay Blessed Guy's🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I saw a comment about empty tank and i am on the list of mechanics who have been confronted by a customer who did a diagnosis of a bad fuel pump but in my case i had a test port on the fuel hose that when i pressed the valve no fuel came out. I did the tap on the tank test and diagnosed a bad level sending unit on an empty tank! The customer was happy to pay the diagnostic fee! And yes Paul i did test it with 5 gallons of gas, the car ran and the gage never moved on a 12 gallon tank! Thank You so much for the relay testing and explanation! Could they make the access cover less accessible?
I love me some tear-down to see the failure. Sometimes it's just for curiosity sake, but here, Pete can show the customer why it failed and explain how they can prevent it going forward. I understand that some folks can only afford to partially fill the tank, but instead of putting in $20 when it hits empty, put in $20 when it hits half tank.
@ 9:00 Those stupid beauty covers are a magnet for the gnawing critters to make a nest and cause all kinds of wiring disaters . Just throw them away and save yourselves a lot of problems. I have a Golf turbodiesel and threw that silly cover away a long time ago.
Great find with basic tools! Sometimes busting out the big guns is just counterproductive. This is a great example. I do have a question, when you were using brake clean to see if it would run on an alternate fuel source. You sprayed it into the intake. Wouldn't that contaminate the MAF? Seems like it would.
Contamination, no, but it really isn't a good idea to spray liquids upstream of an active MAF (hot wire). I was okay doing it this way as the air cleaner would have diffused the heavy droplets
Scanner Danner is an awesome analyst on troubleshooting. However, with a no start but cranking condition, I would have simply sprayed starter fluid in the intake. That would have answered for the fuel pump. Electrical and compression would be next.
I have used a test light on the load circuit for years checking ac compressor coils. A quick and dirty method to determine if you need to reach the component for additional testing.
I can honestly say that SOME people will argue that there car is definitely not out of fuel even though the gauge is on E and that they ARE willing to pay $85 (approx) for a technician to put $20 fuel in AND they will still say it was the alternator or a worse yet a miracle if it goes afterwards. Once they admit they usually run it lower than E that it is a good indication (for me) especially at that age the pump is most likely the failure. Obviously checks still required. Cheers.
The burnt brushes were a nice bonus. Never seen the inside of a bad fuel pump before. I'm also surprised how new the assembly looks on the inside. Not even a single spot of rust or anything. Paul, is it possible that the brushes could look like this (overheated) if they are close to be completely worn out and not making great contact anymore? Regardless if the tank was ran dry or not?
anytime you are using a tool/ testlite with an LED remember you have, depending on the LED used 300 to 3k ohm resister in series to keep the current low enough to not damage the LED. ohms law says 12v 300 ohm resistance =.040 amps 0r 40 milli amps. no where near enough to run a pump motor
Paul, I have a strange one and I am wondering if you and your community are willing to look at it and give advice on my next way forward? I have a Kia Seltos, that sometimes have cranks then cuts out. It sounds like a starter or battery issue. We have a dead miss on cyl 3 when it eventually starts with no fault codes. Fuel pressure is around 4 bar, and it can hold that pressure for a few days. The problem is I can’t consistently get it to do it. When I’ve started it 5 days in a row it has no issues, then customer picks it up and bang issue is back! I’m stumped, I don’t know where to start! The fuel quality is good, the battery and starter test good, there are no air restrictions there is a good spark plugs are good and have also been changed as a precaution.
Let's move this to my forum www.scannerdanner.com It is free to join and we can definitely help you. I have 28k global members and hand picked moderators who've been with me for years and know my material inside and out and are there to help me help you guys. It is just too difficult to offer back and forth messages here on TH-cam with stuff like this and we also can't share pictures and images here like we can on the website. Hope to see you there!
I got an crazy question that I'm not sure if you've came across and or tried! So 2011 jeep grand cherokee 3.6l breaks are tight tell you start the engine then you loose them is the issue they slowly sink all the way down. If you pump them quickly it builds back preasure then sinks again I know most people would say booster is bad if you don't have vacuumed leak somewhere in the system but I've hear now days new cars can have an separate vacuum break pump and could be bad! So I looked and there is an electric sensor attached to where the check valve goes into booster which lead me to using live data on scan tool to check vacuum. I found on the tool an break booster vacuum it read 9.3v without pedal pushed then when you pumped pedal to create the preasure it was dropping to 4v to 5v then when the pedal dropped to floor went back up to 9.3v. So what do you think bad vacuum break pump which I'm not sure if it has one yet or booster lol. Just asking cause I know your an chrysler master !
Paul, could you do a short video discussing 12 v test lights; talking about which ones to use for what? I have some old Snapon lights from the 70’s and 80’s, and from what I hear, you gotta be careful where you use them as they pull to much current for some circuits. Thanks
@@ScannerDannerWith all the electronics in cars today, you would think that the car manufacturers would just throw in a scan tool already on thier dashboard screens for that particular vehicle, but no. Doh...all we get is a ridiculous "check engine" logo. Dumbest, most oxymoronic automotive engineering in the world.
if you do not have pressure gauge, you can disconnect fuel supply at fuel rail and put hose into a bottle. In "curbside diagnostic" case it will show at least you have fuel flow and how much fuel is going to the engine
Yeah that is an okay test... Fuel pressure definitely first but tach can also move on some newer vehicles with no spark... Sometimes tach runs off alternator signal... Check out an older F150... Also check out the way some of the clusters go through their boot up phase... The tach just moves and when you turn the key on it starts moving... Especially on a cluster that gets information through the CAN Comm...
Mr SD, curious what should a normally working pump Ohms should be? you were pulling around 1500/2000 ohms, so is that weak winding ? Thanks your the Best
A stationary brush type DC electric motor will have near 0 ohms of resistance. As the motor spins, it creates a counter voltage that IS the resistance in the circuit. Great question!
A few years ago you helped me solve a problem with my PCM 99 chevy express..5.7..programming 30 min...now my engine will start and die after 2 seconds...security light is on...was blinking then went to regular just on...will I need to do another 30 min relearn?? My battery went dead the other day..due to head lights..or will I need to bypass security ?? Stranded at home right now...need my van badly...
I was laughing where you deservedly shat on Ford for their anti fuse ID fuse blocks. But then I remember at least once in life where I met a Hyundai or a Kia that had a fuse or relay incorrectly ID'ed either in the box cover or their OEM service data. Ford may not tell me anything at all, but at least they didn't lie to me.😁
"Brake, carburetor or air intake cleaners can damage sensitive MAF components.These aggressive cleaners can do serious and expensive damage to sensitive MAF components, especially plastic." I was going to suggest using carb/choke cleaner instead of the brake cleaner (all you had) BUT then i saw that quote on the CRC website promoting their MAF cleaner. You had mentioned that you had seen some higher compression engines fire on starting fluid (didn't have) even with a no spark condition. I am not sure if starting fluid is safe on plastic parts? I assume it would say on the can.
While I agree that spraying fluid into the air intake during cranking when the MAF hot wire is active is not a great idea. You won't hurt them with any of the fluids mentions when it's cold. It is not a plastic that gets damaged
You should get a guest spot on some of the motortrend shows. The never mention the computer stuff. I watched the “Roadkill Garage “ and it was entertaining but didn’t stimulate the grey matter in my brain. Where’s the link for the relay tester?
Could you possibly do a segment in one of your videos on where to find the best place to T in a fuel pressure gauge? I’d love to do it on my vehicle so I’ll know how to do it if there’s a problem.
I was looking for the link for the AES wave for the new test light and the relay control that you were using. If I click on more all it shows is the shirts that you’re selling and then there is a link for AES wave and below that is the Amazon store wasn’t sure if you had a direct link to those two tools that you used in the show
Paul, in the case that the pump ground would be bad or worse broke wouldn't the test light go bad because of the current draw through the pump through the test light ? I mean at this moment the test light would be the " ground cable " and so wouldn't take on the 10 amps of the pump. 🤔
Are you asking what a bad ground would look like with also an open in the pump motor like we had? That would mean there are two problems and you'll never see them both at the same time. But, just in case, that is why I used my test light connected to fuel pump positive and tested the ground that way, because I already knew the pump was open
@@ScannerDanner absolutely and it's a nice tool. I was just saying with everything going on with inflation it's hard for everyone. So if someone didn't have the money this is a little bit cheaper. That's the point I was trying to make
Sir in this you mentioned fuel pump internally carbon brush melted and also you explained resistance is high fuel pump so in this condition how much will take current draw like normal good fuel pump takes a around 6 amps
I didn't bother with the current test because I knew it would have been zero amps based on the tests we did at the relay. We had basically an open circuit
![Intermittent Low Power/Lean Conditions [2006 Ford F150 Electronic Returnless Fuel System]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f2p0VX9eYYg/mqdefault.jpg)
I won young tech award from SD/aeswave 4 years or some ago. I got a Uscope and a couple hundred bucks in AESwave store credit.
Winning that gave the the drive to keep pushing and I now own a mobile diagnostic and programming company.
All started here on this channel for me
Thanks for answering the call 😊
And I'm super happy to hear that you're in the game now!
@ScannerDanner least i can do.
Your channel has seriously changed my life man. I was watching your videos before I ever entered the industry. You showed me a side of the industry I didn't know existed.
At 28 years old I enrolled in a technical college to chase that passion. With in a few months of being in school I was placed in a shop as a diag tech and it was all due to the knowledge I learned from your channel all those years prior.
I would have never had the skill to be able to start my own business 5 years in if it was for all those hours of watching and rewatching your early videos
@kdautomotive1165 thank you so much for this feedback. You know what's truly awesome? You're the one that made that happen. Most don't have that dedication. I have the material, but it takes someone with an interest and passion to make something out of it. So props to you again
@ScannerDanner goes both ways, not all instructor's have the passion and dedication you do. If only all schools were filled with instructors like you
Great lesson . Too bad Hyundai puts the fuel pressure regulator on the pump in the tank . Too many shops use their " Big Toe " to test . Result : Melted WALLET ! 😂
I was an average tec. I did a ton of courses bought your book, did your online course. Watched every sd premium and TH-cam video. Got a degree. Now I train technician's. All thanks to your teachings.
This is awesome. Proud of you man. Thank you!
@ScannerDanner thank your for your kind words and support 🙏.
@@ScannerDannerWhat book of yours is on sale? I will start taking your course soon
@@luckymutibo9848 it is available from my website at www.scannerdanner.com
Thank you!
I was one of the recipients of a SD and AES tool grant years ago. I bought the advanced terminal tool kit from AES and it comes in very handy all the time for front probing or pin drag testing. Thanks so much for all you do for this industry. 👍👍
Thank you for this comment! I just wanted people to see transparency
Over the years,I learnt a lot from your videos and I think I owe you a big thank you ❤
I owe him a couple cases of beer
@@MarcLegros-o2g
Absolutely Tell me About it. This Man is The Man 👍👍👍
He does not drink beers😊@@MarcLegros-o2g
You are so welcome
I enjoy the in depth info you give at each step, including the "quick" followup of "just the car running" for the last 12 mins including autopsy of a fuel pump assembly
Just when I was having a gloomy Saturday, ScannerDanner had to post this gem and brighten everything up for me!
Love this. Thanks!
@@ScannerDannerI just bought your book from AES Wave. I have been a tech since 1996 but I continue to learn from you. Looking forward to getting the book. Thanks buddy. Jason
Super grateful for the help with a new 60/20amp clamp when I melted mine, not sure how many years ago it was, but at the time Paul helped me get a new low amp clamp from ASE. Super awesome program, thank you again...
Thanks for this comment. Appreciate it
Great video again Paul, as a 19 year old tech who’s been out of tech school for not even a year, I’ve been able to gain advanced diagnostic knowledge from you and others that leaves even the old timers surprised, keep them coming
Fantastic! Keep it up young man
This was the type of video I've been missing from you.
Are you a premium member? We haven't stopped producing them. I'm just more focused on building my website. Thanks!
Love these type of videos. No scanner, old school diag, "backyard" mechanic stuff, all the basics and simple explanation.
You improved my electrical diagnostics so much mate, i cannot thank you enough.
Scanner Danner is a MASTER DIAGNOSTIC MAN and Teacher, I don't know how he doesn't have many many more subscribers 🙄 I guess ppl prefer to replace parts lol 🤣
I love your videos sir 👌👌
Great video, Paul. I always learn things by watching your videos. FYI...I've seen a few videos from the machinist who's building the stroker motor for your truck and that thing is gonna' be a monster! That guy really knows what he's doing.
He does! I'm in good hands! And thanks for the comment. Glad you're following along
This youtube channel is so good. Its a learning channel, a comunity service and a comedy channel this is really good stuff. I wish this was on cable. I would never leave the house.
Thank you Josh!
Thank you for all this information, I am addicted to your videos.
Glad you like them!
Paul. I used some of those techniques to diagnose a tractor AC in a field 30 miles away over the phone with my grandson doing the work.
Thanks from this 70 yr old retired tech ‼️
Nice!
More than 20 years in the field, and a bunch of stuff that I know is thanks to you.
thank you, thank you, thank you🙏🙏🙏🙏
I was really anxious to know more about the cause of the pump motor failure and you sir did not disappoint. Thank you for another great video! Keep up the good work. I wish you and yours all the best with your endeavours.
I like when you pulled power from your T-pin at the pump.. switch around the test light and check for ground.. that was slick. I personally know of several times that I chose to pull power from a long jumper cable from the battery.. but I learned something today. Power was right there, and I didn't even think of using it. lol.
Nice! Did you notice that when I do that, I'll always backprobe one side then frontprobe the other? To make sure they don't touch each other, which could be real bad if you're testing a solenoid (fry the driver)
@@ScannerDanner nice tip
@@ScannerDanner
Nice 👍🏼 !
Paul once again you are teaching globally 🎉🎉. I am happy that aes Wave is reproducing the Scanner Danner test light....it was about time. Cheers 🇺🇸🇬🇷
Sometimes I get lazy and hook the scanner up to attempt to turn the pump on if applicable. Keep up the good work Paul.
The incandescent test light is my favorite tool, well other than my pocket screwdriver. Love the go no go voltage drop test.
I appreciate your encouragement when I started my TH-cam channel a few years ago you gave me great feedback, which was very helpful. Just about to go over 20k subs next month. :)
Awesome! Keep up the great work
Thank you Paul for this great video...Greetings from Greece...Have a nice rest of summer..
Great one Paul and Caleb.Always look forward to these videos as it provides me with my evening entertainment. Kudos for both of you.
Glad you enjoyed it. Caleb works hard on these! He loves the feedback too
On the empty tank comment. In the early years of my career I worked in a shop where the owner did the “diag” if you call it that anyway.
He decided the truck needed a pump despite hearing it come on, so I drop the tank and find a completely dry tank 😂
To top it the truck belonged to a local towing and tire shop who didn’t think to put gas in it.
Great video
This is fantastic, Paul! Watching from Cape Town!
i was sent the AES Wave test lead set thru the grant. had several health issues unable to afford the grant really helped me out a lot.
How are you feeling these days?
@@ScannerDanner much better took about 2 years to kinda get better but i can finally see the top of the hill almost gave up several times but friends and people like you and other youtubers kept me going.
Great point about starting fluid operating on the diesel effect. Compression alone being enough to ignite it without spark.
Having a bore scope for certain tasks is a game changer.
It really was clutch here in this gravel parking lot!
I’ll be in line for when the ScannerDanner test light comes out!
I can't forget to thank you for your videos, big thanks
Me gustan tus videos,no entiendo ingles pero contigo aprendo diagnostico y aprendo ingles tambien,grasias bro.
Can translate that,: I like your videos, I don't understand English but with you I learn to diagnose and English also, thanks bro. As for me; Paul and Caleb you share so much I don't know, always looking forward to your videos. Thanks for keeping that energetic drive to share knowledge. Much appreciated in my part.
What are the odds I’m just watching your no starts for fun.. I just saw that kegger video!! Totally forgot about the tank step as well.. I’m following along now but man these videos are so fun trying to guess what route to take next. I appreciate these videos Paul! It’s always exciting to try and answer your questions you ask us.. if I was in the woods.. what would I use without the tools!!! I think you should do those! Old school tests since the scan tool treatment is such a pampered Cadillac ride! Also I watched the Santa Fe video before the 6.0 video.
A lot of stuff I’m bringing up but, just writing this with excitement in mind since I haven’t finished the video yet!! I’m gonna guess fuel pump. Never would have guessed that broken wire on the 6.0 though!!
Glad you are here and thank you for the feedback. Made my day
that's one good thuing about hyundais, from what I seen the majority if not all have a fuel pump access under rear seat or trunk. if not for rusty bolts you can slam a pump assembly in them in about 30 minutes.
Great video. I like the way you quizzed your son. It got me thinking also. Maybe incorporate that more in some of your videos. Thanks for your time.
Thanks! Will do!
You are just a wonderful and smart at what u do😊
Idea for the test light, Paul. I have the same OTC, bought years ago after starting to watch and follow your teachings. I HATED the clamp on it, it would always fall off, the boot would cover it and make it difficult to attach on some locations. I cut mine off and put in a banana jack. Now I can use alligator clips, backprobe pins, whatever banana jack accessories I have. Such a small thing but made a huge difference. Hope that helps!
I thought that was what kind of test light that he was developing with AES Wave when he first mentioned coming out with his own test light a couple of years ago or so. I have the same OTC 3633 test light and I hate the clamp on it. It's very flimsy. I love the rest of the light though.
Great video Paul. As usual very educational. Please keep doing what you do.Thank you!
It is. It will have the 4mm banana style plug at the end of it when it is complete. It will also have a 4mm male adapter that you can thread onto the pointed end
@@ScannerDanner that's a great idea! Can't wait to buy a couple and give them to my coworkers
Great lesson
I always start with a code read.. It just gives too much info all at once to avoid it...
I never get tired of watching a good relay test though.. good stuff
Thanks Paul.
The best presentation ! Thanks !!
Thank you so much Paul for another great video
The way the Uactivate tool works is that when you push the button on the side, the color of the LED light tells you which test port on top of the tool is the power side of the load side of the relay circuit. In your case it lit up red which means the red port on top of the tool was your power side which also showed it above the 30 designation on the tool which means pin 30 in the fuse box for the relay is power. In this case it also means that the green port or pin 87 is the load/ground side which goes down to the component you are testing.
If the 87a LED light lights up it will be either red or blue. Red means that the red port on top is the power side and that the blue port is the Load/ground side. If the 87a LED lights up blue, it means that the blue port on top is the power side and that the red port is the Load/ground side. If there is no LED light at all when pressing the button, it means that there is no power, circuit has an open, or no circuit.
The LED lights for the 85 and 86 ports on the lower portion of the tools shows which side is the power side of the control side of the relay. If the LED lights up green, the power side is the green 85 port and if it lights up red, the power side is the red 86 port. If there is no LED light showing, it means that there is no power, the circuit is open, or the relay control driver is not activated.
I got that now thanks. Circuit identification with the different color bulbs is nice but I'd rather sacrifice that and have an incandescent bulb in there (on the load side) for the test I was doing.
I always have my test light when I'm using the uActivate anyway, so I can determine polarity on my own. Just my opinion. But great tool and great idea with how it is set up
@@ScannerDanner I think the LED lights are just to give a quick indication of if you have power to the control and load sides of the relay and which pins supply that power and not to load test anything. I imagine the test ports are there to do what you ultimately did with your test light and to test for power or ground. Nice diag as usual. Keep the content coming.
Thanks for sharing, great video as always 👍
I heard Danner say 'after that I'll never leave home without my scan tool.
Hey man I don't usually say s*** I usually just sit here and watch the videos and at least smack the thumbs up so I figured at least take a moment to say Thanks for the help throughout the years
Appreciate that!
Thanks for sharing SD👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Kindly reserve 2 SD limited test lights for me, I really want them😍😍😍
Special Thanks to cameraman Caleb😎
Stay Blessed Guy's🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great content, Thank You. 🙏 I love the relay tool, I wish they would sell the tool here in Trinidad 🇹🇹
Great honest job as we can all see Dan good work !
Paul Danner is my name 😉
@@ScannerDanner Thanks Dan. I will continue to keep watching.
@@Bugsy0333 dude my name is not Dan lol
@@ScannerDanner I got it now thank you Paul.
After the tap test, you’ll just have to keep drinking beer standing there with your friends going “yup, yupp, mmhm” like Hank Hill and the gang
I missed your videos, good to see you back
Man your a genius with this electrical work I do some myself but nothing like your abilities I watch your videos hoping to learn somethings
Thank you!
I saw a comment about empty tank and i am on the list of mechanics who have been confronted by a customer who did a diagnosis of a bad fuel pump but in my case i had a test port on the fuel hose that when i pressed the valve no fuel came out. I did the tap on the tank test and diagnosed a bad level sending unit on an empty tank! The customer was happy to pay the diagnostic fee! And yes Paul i did test it with 5 gallons of gas, the car ran and the gage never moved on a 12 gallon tank! Thank You so much for the relay testing and explanation! Could they make the access cover less accessible?
I appreciate it, Mr. Danner.
Love your user name 😆
"You're my boy Blue" 😂
Thanks Paul. your the MAN.
I got a grant and got me a probe I was really greatful
I love me some tear-down to see the failure. Sometimes it's just for curiosity sake, but here, Pete can show the customer why it failed and explain how they can prevent it going forward.
I understand that some folks can only afford to partially fill the tank, but instead of putting in $20 when it hits empty, put in $20 when it hits half tank.
Great video thanks for sharing
Another great video! Btw have you finished writing your e-book? I am willing to bet you will sell many many copies since most people buy ebooks now
@ 9:00 Those stupid beauty covers are a magnet for the gnawing critters to make a nest and cause all kinds of wiring disaters . Just throw them away and save yourselves a lot of problems. I have a Golf turbodiesel and threw that silly cover away a long time ago.
Great find with basic tools! Sometimes busting out the big guns is just counterproductive. This is a great example. I do have a question, when you were using brake clean to see if it would run on an alternate fuel source. You sprayed it into the intake. Wouldn't that contaminate the MAF? Seems like it would.
Contamination, no, but it really isn't a good idea to spray liquids upstream of an active MAF (hot wire). I was okay doing it this way as the air cleaner would have diffused the heavy droplets
I was hoping OTC would make your named one scanner danner test light. I will be purchasing one 😯
Besides being crappy cars, Hyundais are surprisingly easy to work on with really good factory diagnostic information.
Scanner Danner is an awesome analyst on troubleshooting. However, with a no start but cranking condition, I would have simply sprayed starter fluid in the intake. That would have answered for the fuel pump. Electrical and compression would be next.
Thanks! And that's what we did 😉
I have used a test light on the load circuit for years checking ac compressor coils. A quick and dirty method to determine if you need to reach the component for additional testing.
I like your work
I can honestly say that SOME people will argue that there car is definitely not out of fuel even though the gauge is on E and that they ARE willing to pay $85 (approx) for a technician to put $20 fuel in AND they will still say it was the alternator or a worse yet a miracle if it goes afterwards. Once they admit they usually run it lower than E that it is a good indication (for me) especially at that age the pump is most likely the failure. Obviously checks still required. Cheers.
I noticed that aeswave now has those awesome relay circuit testers in stock.
Yes they do!
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
The burnt brushes were a nice bonus. Never seen the inside of a bad fuel pump before. I'm also surprised how new the assembly looks on the inside. Not even a single spot of rust or anything.
Paul, is it possible that the brushes could look like this (overheated) if they are close to be completely worn out and not making great contact anymore? Regardless if the tank was ran dry or not?
Absolutely. Anything that is creating resistance is creating heat.
Thanks for the Video
anytime you are using a tool/ testlite with an LED remember you have, depending on the LED used 300 to 3k ohm resister in series to keep the current low enough to not damage the LED. ohms law says 12v 300 ohm resistance =.040 amps 0r 40 milli amps. no where near enough to run a pump motor
Of course. And neither is my 200ma incandescent light
GOOD INFORMATION
Paul, I have a strange one and I am wondering if you and your community are willing to look at it and give advice on my next way forward? I have a Kia Seltos, that sometimes have cranks then cuts out. It sounds like a starter or battery issue. We have a dead miss on cyl 3 when it eventually starts with no fault codes. Fuel pressure is around 4 bar, and it can hold that pressure for a few days. The problem is I can’t consistently get it to do it. When I’ve started it 5 days in a row it has no issues, then customer picks it up and bang issue is back! I’m stumped, I don’t know where to start! The fuel quality is good, the battery and starter test good, there are no air restrictions there is a good spark plugs are good and have also been changed as a precaution.
Let's move this to my forum www.scannerdanner.com
It is free to join and we can definitely help you. I have 28k global members and hand picked moderators who've been with me for years and know my material inside and out and are there to help me help you guys. It is just too difficult to offer back and forth messages here on TH-cam with stuff like this and we also can't share pictures and images here like we can on the website. Hope to see you there!
I got an crazy question that I'm not sure if you've came across and or tried! So 2011 jeep grand cherokee 3.6l breaks are tight tell you start the engine then you loose them is the issue they slowly sink all the way down. If you pump them quickly it builds back preasure then sinks again I know most people would say booster is bad if you don't have vacuumed leak somewhere in the system but I've hear now days new cars can have an separate vacuum break pump and could be bad! So I looked and there is an electric sensor attached to where the check valve goes into booster which lead me to using live data on scan tool to check vacuum. I found on the tool an break booster vacuum it read 9.3v without pedal pushed then when you pumped pedal to create the preasure it was dropping to 4v to 5v then when the pedal dropped to floor went back up to 9.3v. So what do you think bad vacuum break pump which I'm not sure if it has one yet or booster lol. Just asking cause I know your an chrysler master !
The Best!!!!!!
Thanks you really help me out
Paul, could you do a short video discussing 12 v test lights; talking about which ones to use for what? I have some old Snapon lights from the 70’s and 80’s, and from what I hear, you gotta be careful where you use them as they pull to much current for some circuits. Thanks
Check out my chapters 2 and 3 playlists. I cover this extensively (test light usage).
Thanks!
Love the videos
It blows my mind that Pete has no one who is capable of doing such a simple diagnostic.
He does Paul Danner
Pete doesn't like electrical stuff but he is a phenomenal tech. And I'm asking him for content, so he saved it for me. He could have done this one.
@@ScannerDannerWith all the electronics in cars today, you would think that the car manufacturers would just throw in a scan tool already on thier dashboard screens for that particular vehicle, but no. Doh...all we get is a ridiculous "check engine" logo. Dumbest, most oxymoronic automotive engineering in the world.
Simply don't think so.
if you do not have pressure gauge, you can disconnect fuel supply at fuel rail and put hose into a bottle. In "curbside diagnostic" case it will show at least you have fuel flow and how much fuel is going to the engine
I wouldn't trust that test for proper psi. But it is an option in a pinch
Yeah that is an okay test... Fuel pressure definitely first but tach can also move on some newer vehicles with no spark... Sometimes tach runs off alternator signal... Check out an older F150... Also check out the way some of the clusters go through their boot up phase... The tach just moves and when you turn the key on it starts moving... Especially on a cluster that gets information through the CAN Comm...
Never claimed it to be the be all end all of tests. It's a guide only
good vid iam going to check a car while watching this vid
Mr SD, curious what should a normally working pump Ohms should be? you were pulling around 1500/2000 ohms, so is that weak winding ? Thanks your the Best
A stationary brush type DC electric motor will have near 0 ohms of resistance. As the motor spins, it creates a counter voltage that IS the resistance in the circuit.
Great question!
A few years ago you helped me solve a problem with my PCM 99 chevy express..5.7..programming 30 min...now my engine will start and die after 2 seconds...security light is on...was blinking then went to regular just on...will I need to do another 30 min relearn?? My battery went dead the other day..due to head lights..or will I need to bypass security ?? Stranded at home right now...need my van badly...
Could be an ignition switch or lock cylinder issue if the relearn doesn't take
I was laughing where you deservedly shat on Ford for their anti fuse ID fuse blocks. But then I remember at least once in life where I met a Hyundai or a Kia that had a fuse or relay incorrectly ID'ed either in the box cover or their OEM service data. Ford may not tell me anything at all, but at least they didn't lie to me.😁
Correction about spray brake cleaner. The cleaner that makes Folizine gas is the non-flammable brake cleaner that can't be used to start an engine,
Got it
"Brake, carburetor or air intake cleaners can damage sensitive MAF components.These aggressive cleaners can
do serious and expensive damage to sensitive MAF components, especially plastic." I was going to suggest using carb/choke cleaner instead of the brake cleaner (all you had) BUT then i saw that quote on the CRC website promoting their MAF cleaner. You had mentioned that you had seen some higher compression engines fire on starting fluid (didn't have) even with a no spark condition. I am not sure if starting fluid is safe on plastic parts? I assume it would say on the can.
While I agree that spraying fluid into the air intake during cranking when the MAF hot wire is active is not a great idea. You won't hurt them with any of the fluids mentions when it's cold. It is not a plastic that gets damaged
You should get a guest spot on some of the motortrend shows. The never mention the computer stuff. I watched the “Roadkill Garage “ and it was entertaining but didn’t stimulate the grey matter in my brain. Where’s the link for the relay tester?
This is my affiliate link and the tool is called a uActivate
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
Thanks!
Love from india❤
Thanks😊
Ain’t got no gas in it
You are funny
You got any of them french fried potaters?
So funny i forgot to laugh
@@2jzgenat Karl Childers is never not funny
This made me chuckle.😂😂
In 30 years I dont think I ahve ever seen banging on a starter or fuel tank work
100 times for me in the past 30 years. I have a few on video too 🙂
Could you possibly do a segment in one of your videos on where to find the best place to T in a fuel pressure gauge? I’d love to do it on my vehicle so I’ll know how to do it if there’s a problem.
Every car is different! Check out my Chapter 16 playlist. I have dozens of fuel pressure testing videos. Thanks!
I was looking for the link for the AES wave for the new test light and the relay control that you were using. If I click on more all it shows is the shirts that you’re selling and then there is a link for AES wave and below that is the Amazon store wasn’t sure if you had a direct link to those two tools that you used in the show
Aeswave
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
The test light isn't listed yet
@@ScannerDanner thanks!
Wow! Talk about diagnosing a vehicle with no tools
My favorite mistake was the Air Bag set off
Paul, in the case that the pump ground would be bad or worse broke wouldn't the test light go bad because of the current draw through the pump through the test light ? I mean at this moment the test light would be the " ground cable " and so wouldn't take on the 10 amps of the pump. 🤔
You can't draw any more current than the highest resistance prohibits. Highest resistance hopefully is the test light.
Are you asking what a bad ground would look like with also an open in the pump motor like we had? That would mean there are two problems and you'll never see them both at the same time. But, just in case, that is why I used my test light connected to fuel pump positive and tested the ground that way, because I already knew the pump was open
A great alternative to the u active tool is a tool made by ATD. it's about 100$ cheaper and does the same thing. It even has the leds and test ports
I'll support my friends at AES and do something good with the proceeds like we've been. Thanks
@@ScannerDanner absolutely and it's a nice tool. I was just saying with everything going on with inflation it's hard for everyone. So if someone didn't have the money this is a little bit cheaper. That's the point I was trying to make
Sir in this you mentioned fuel pump internally carbon brush melted and also you explained resistance is high fuel pump so in this condition how much will take current draw like normal good fuel pump takes a around 6 amps
I didn't bother with the current test because I knew it would have been zero amps based on the tests we did at the relay. We had basically an open circuit
Starting fluid is good for diagnostics if you are hunting for a vacuum leak.
No shroader valve on the fuel rail??
No, unfortunately