Roughing on My Large Lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ย. 2019
- Please see • Horizontal Milling Mac... for heavy milling in my shop
Using my large lathe to rough out a piece of mild steel for a weld fixture for the clamshell bucket repair. If you would like to just see the heavy (possibly Abom sized?) cuts skip ahead to the 8:30 mark. The roughing passes were .250" deep at a .020" per rev feed rate at 557 sfpm. Giving a metal removal rate of 33.4 cubic inches per minute.
At the beginning I show how I like to set up the 4 jaw chuck before placing the material in it. I try to set the jaws just a bit larger than the stock size and have them run concentric. The concentric lines machined in the chuck face help greatly with this prep work. I also show how I move heavier pieces around my shop using a combination of forklift and gantry crane.
At the end I was pleasantly surprised by the accuracy of this worn out lathe. Thanks for watching.
Nice to see an old British lathe still doing a good job. I would say the finest lathes in the World are British and American. The Japanese did a few nice ones and the Italians.
On my big 4 jaw i have a pointer which I use to set the 4 jaws to, just like clocking tha part,
gets them close. I often hunt around for a worn grinding disc a bit bigger than the part so if that fits in less bumping around.
Congrats on the new lathe! Awesome footage!!~ Richard
Thanks Richard.
Nice lathe, i also like to work at this size ... to avoid the "conecutting" it seems you must center the Tailstock some 1/100 ... you can adjust it with that one innerhexagon above the bed.
Nice, I love heavy machining. It is amazing how mach those carbide tools can stand.
It is enjoyable. It is amazing that about 15kW can be turned into heat on an area .25" by .020" and the carbide withstands that. I think the swarf acting as a disposable heat sink allows this to be possible.
@@hmw-ms3tx yes sure, but you can't do the same with an HSS tool.
Nice job❤️
Big lump of good old British iron there !. Nice video.
I have to agree. When it was new it must have been a hell of a lathe. Ken
Nice work ! Good chips holds size well. Whats not to like !
No Coolant !
Nice chip control and heat in the chips
Thanks. Ken
David Wilks worthy content ..from that ye ole English lathe...cheers...
That was beautiful...
Thanks. Ken
Impressive 👍
Al.
Thanks Al.
Broadbent, Yorkshire’s finest from sowerby Bridge.
Great video. Thanks.
Heavy Iron - what's not to like about that?
Man that is a big 4 jaw chuck. Makes my 15" look anemic. I am surprised the tip of the carbide held up that well without coolant.
I was just watching your video where you showed some of the things you'd bought on Ebay. (Simplex jack, 40 taper arbors etc.) The 4 jaw chuck on my lathe came from Ebay as well. It is a steel chuck, 27.5" diameter, weighs about 700lbs., made in Italy, in virtually new condition. With shipping to Canada (from the U.S.) and exchange it cost me just over $1200 Canadian (about $875 USD). I had to scour Ebay for close to 6 months to find that deal. I consider myself extremely lucky to have found it. Ebay is a fantastic place to find tooling. The carbide insert still looked like new after I used it. I think the chips act as a disposable heat sink keeping the part and the insert relatively cool. Thanks for the comment. Ken
Carbide doesn't need coolant to cut well. You have to go slower overall but carbide can handle the heat. That's why it has Cobalt in its makeup.
Hi I just found your channel and subscribed to it . I'm looking into a large lathe. And I was wondering how much work to you get for your ?Your shop is very nice with lots of room
Hello. To be honest I don't get a lot of work for my big lathe right now. I am planning on growing and taking on more jobs so I likely will use it more in the future. I got it pretty cheap and did some cleaning/repair work myself so I don't mind the fact that it is not very busy. What I really need in a horizontal boring machine similar to yours. Ken
Spectacular, the amount of metal that's been eaten by that machine is amazing.
Thanks Rustinox. When you start removing metal that quickly it's nice when someone else is paying for it. (i.e. you don't want to do that too often if it is not for a customer.) Ken
This is metal REMOVAL, Paul DeBolt demonstrates. th-cam.com/video/NpuZFCG2JBg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=NYCCNC
Nice
Mucho atao para algo tan poco y sencillo.
Desde Chile
nice
Wow! Wonderful machine. That 4-jaw must be 32" at least. Taking some pretty heavy cuts, too! Looks great. Thanks!
Hello Bruce, the chuck is actually just under 28". It's a steel chuck and holds onto parts like hell. Thanks, Ken
If there had been a clean facing cut on the tailstock face, would that have improved the final OD tolerance at all?
Hello Josh. It's unlikely. The tailstock centre rides in the centre hole in the end. This centre hole is made with a short, stiff centre bit that wouldn't be affected by the runout on the face of the part. Therefore the face on the end would have no effect on how the tailstock supports the work. The change in size is more likely caused by a combination of bed wear, tailstock misalignment, tailstock deflection and part deflection. In spite of these problems the tool managed to follow a path that didn't stray from the axis of rotation by more than .00025" over a foot of travel. Pretty good for an old clunker. Ken
@@hmw-ms3tx Thanks for the answer Ken! I'm learning to tool and die as well as some other machining aspects. To me it seemed the sheer size of the stock might cause the minor variation seen here the further away from the chuck the workpiece got. Thank you for taking the time to explain. Happy New Years! -Josh
The brake wants adjusting.
I wonder if taper will get more severe when you get closer to the chuck.
It does. The small piece in the chuck at the beginning was a test piece. I was getting about .003" taper in 4 inches on that piece, right next to the chuck. That was why I was so surprised with the results on the larger piece. Ken
Physics.. it is deflection. the further away from the Chuck the less rigid the part, the more likely the part is deflecting off the tool and the amount of cut. This is of course without a center in the end. the closer you get to the Chuck the more rigidly the part is held and it is actually less taper, it's the correct cut and distance because the rigidity is there to maintain it..even with a live center in the end of the part the tailstock center will keep it rigid to a certain length out from the end of the center, just like the chuck will keep it rigid to a certain length out from the chuck..... Yet even a longer piece will start to bow in the middle because of deflection and it will actually increase in diameter, then decrease as the cut gets closer to the Chuck. This is of course if the center tailstock and Chuck are set evenly with no taper adjusted in the tailstock...other factors involved in the amount of deflection of course include the amount of cut, the type of tool and of course the material.
@@hmw-ms3tx The drop in the lathe bed is has bigger effect on more slender pieces - the bigger thing you turn the less of an effect there is. Thus even ultra worn out lathe will be quite accurate on say a 2 foot 3" chunk of steel. It will be horrible on say 0.5" slender piece over say 1 foot (the first foot is most worn usually). There is calculation online showing how wear effects different stuff. You can also fix this with the tailstock setting counter taper & thus your clunker lathe can be as precise as brand new thing - just takes 10x the patience and 10x the knowledge.
Muito bom 👏👏👏🇧🇷
Your crane is nice
Thank-you. Ken
Wow awsome cuts in real world view, but damn where does sandvik come up with 825 sfm? Those chips were purple almost back to silver, they were HOT! Theyer rec must be with coolant?
Nice , i bet you are happy with that . Have you checked the gap yet .
I was very happy with the results, both the metal removal rate and the accuracy. I'm not sure what you mean by 'check the gap'. Thanks, Ken.
@@hmw-ms3tx The lathe look like it is a gap bed lathe , see the removable section of bed at the start . every now & then it doesn't hurt to check the alignment with an indicator .
I see what you mean now. I haven't done that but maybe I should as I am getting about .003" taper in four inches next to the chuck. Ken
More Videos whith the rhoughing tool
I would like to make more videos like that but I need to find more of that kind of work for it. It's plows off about $15.00 worth of steel a minute and that gets pretty expensive if you're doing it just to make swarf. I'll definitely show some more when I get it. Thanks, Ken
Nice work there.
Good to hear a 15kw motor load up like that on cutting.
Without a load meter you wouldn't be sure how close to capacity she was but I'm guessing by sound there's a bit left in the bank.
And Max could be right, a bit of custom work with the gap bed settings could surprise you by improving the close to chuck accuracy. Worth a look, and if it's 'soft'....
I do like the size of your shed, el grande, but I can understand working outside is not practical for much of the year so big things have to fit inside to pull down and reassemble them.
I have to agree with your aproach to the 'suggested feeds and speeds' by the manufacturers of inserts!
I have been Totally undone by believing or using their, ahhhh, idealised, F&S's!!
A 48mm U drill welded into bar feeder fed bar stock, in a CNC lathe.
Common sense, the accumulation of your own stuff ups!
If I may ask what make and model is that big lathe of yours?
It is a Broadbent Schofield model BSC lathe. Made in Halifax, England. Ken
@@hmw-ms3tx it's a cool lathe. The Brits make very good machine tools. Mark Milam
สวย
20 thou of an inch is 0.5 of a mm???
Yes, that is correct. Ken
maybe you wouldn't have that problem if you'd use a steadyrest?
Quel est l'intérêt d'un mandrin 4 mors pour une pièce géométrique la je comprend pas
Un
Thao tac trì trê wúa bác thö öi 🤨😏
Sir hamko sikhaogi
Skd61?
It's not a large, 1A680 this is large lathe)))
You call this a large lathe? It’s small when you don’t have to use a jog button for dialing in my friend.
Of course it's not large compared to some, but as the title says it is 'my' large lathe. i.e. I own two lathes, this one and my small one. Having said that, when I first got it I did actually have to ride the clutch to dial in work. A previous owner had the front taper roller bearings so tight you could barely turn it by hand. I backed them off a bit and it is much better. Ken
My least favourite tool. I'm impressed.
I was thinking about you when I was using this tool. I thought you would disapprove. I've found that these tools work well in rigid set ups like this one. However, in long, slender work I find the high lead angle tools work better. Combine them with turning from chuck to tailstock and the chances of success improve greatly. Just this week I roughed out some 2.5" diameter 4340 HTSR pieces 36" long on this lathe. I used my high lead angle tool and took off .250" on diameter in one pass. It worked pretty good, with only a bit of vibration. Ken
1 punta deliği delmek için bunca eziyet saçmalık yerde noktayla yapsan bundan daha hızlı olur.kepenkli aynada iyice saçmalık.ustayim diye hava ateşin simdi
get rid of the gloves