Honda Accord Captive Rotors/Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly - Removal and Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show how I remove and replace captive brake rotors on an older Honda. The wheel bearing hub assembly has to be removed in order to change the rotors on this design which makes it a bit more difficult than a standard brake rotor job. The exact vehicle in this video is a 1997 Honda Accord EX 2.2L four cylinder sedan with F22B1 engine. 1994-1997 Accords should be similar. Enjoy!
Oil change video on this car: • Honda Accord Oil and F...
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This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
Centric Brake Rotors 120.40022: amzn.to/2GZPEwj
Honda Axle Nut 90305-SD4-003: amzn.to/2KpIHXy
OTC Brake Pad Spreader: amzn.to/2H1kaGb
Milwaukee 2754 Impact: amzn.to/2YXV3hQ
Milwaukee 2763 1/2" Impact: amzn.to/2H1qxt7
Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/35tE09O
OTC Pry Bar: amzn.to/31xfuzH
Schley Products Unstake Tool: amzn.to/2H0i1KX
GearWrench 41650 Axle Nut Set: amzn.to/2YYSDvk
OTC 6295 Front End Service Set: amzn.to/2Kt1aTi
Coarse 2" Roloc Discs: amzn.to/2GZrX7j
4 Bolts Used: 10mm x 1.25mm x 100mm
Chicago Pneumatic CP875 Angle Die Grinder: amzn.to/31yOIam
Milwaukee 2457 3/8" M12 Ratchet: amzn.to/2H0jW20
GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2ToIK91
GearWrench Sockets: amzn.to/31vQXLi
Snap-On 3/8" Tech Angle Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2H3cJzo
Daytona Jack (cheaper at HF with coupon): amzn.to/2IQbwLC
Jack Stands - RECALLED from Harbor Freight - DO NOT USE
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive (As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases).
What's your take on the captive rotor delete by using hubs from 1998 Acura TL? Thanks Big Dog!
I don't think ive seen a more thorough video. Just as you i like to torque the major components that see the most stress.
Thanks for the air hammer trick to press out the hub that was priceless!!
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Just saved me $400. Thank you so much for this video. Had a bad bearing in my 94 Accord, and almost all other videos show you how to take apart the bearing. I didn't know they sale the bearing and hub pre pressed at some places, and can easily replace a side for about 50 bucks, without destroying the old one for no reason.
Finally a video that doesn't suck! Thank you Sir..
lol, thanks!
I'm grateful Big Dog. You seem like a born teacher. I will use this video as my guide when I am required to perform this job on my 200k + miler 1995 Accord.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
This guy knows how to do repairs properly. I have an 02 accord that needs front hubs, bearing, and tie rods replaced. If this guy was in Southern california I'd definately pay him whatever his rate to work on my accord. This guy sets the bench mark very high for repair techs. Great vid thankyou for sharing your knowladge sir.'
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Thanks so much, i was having trouble separating the hub from the knuckle. as you said the manual says just remove the hub from the knuckle. Yeah right. love the air hammer trick.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Outstanding! I just finished this job using your video as a guide and I was able to do both sides in about 3 hours total time. I live in the northeast So everything is always harder with rust but still wasn't bad at all. I had a bad wheel bearing so I just replaced the hubs, rotors and pads to make sure I only have to do the job once. Thank you for the amazing guide!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
I've done this job a couple of times years ago (owned 96 accrd). You make it look so easy! Well done!
Thanks!
I did this job awhile back . Being a green horn Took me awhile once I figured it out "TH-cam" definitely helped .. wasn't bad took the same steps ..changed my hubs rotors / pads & claipers minus the air tools and toqure wrenches . I came in hot on a turn and bent my passenger side knuckle .. and got another from the junkyard . So I need to swap everything over to the other nuckel.. get a new set of tires .. to get a perfect alignment and stop in uneven tire ware. Great video 👌 ..
👍
“Just take your whole car apart to get the rotor off”. Wow Honda good job.
Thankfully they fixed this design issue in later models.
Hands down best bud explanation right here
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Thanks a million for taking the time to make this vid. I really appreciate your efforts! 👏👏👍
You bet, thanks for the comment!
Wow captive rotors. Wondered what the heck Honda was thinking. Should call the owners up the creek without a paddle when you tackle those things. I had a 93 accord wagon and found out what a beast they are to work on. I think I spent a summer working on that car. Great learning experience wish I had seen your videos so much easier when you know what you are doing. You are a great teacher.
Very good step by step directions . Keep up the good work.
Thank you Jim!
I’m both relieved and offended (not at you), this looks way easier then someone else who explained replacing brake rotors THEY TOLD ME I HAD TO TAKE THE EHOLE KNUCKLE OUT AND TAKE OFF THE BEARING. Thank you for saving me much time and money with this very thorough video!
On hub of rotor Hondas I should add
This is a great video on how to change the rotors. Save a lots of money. Thank you very much.
Thank you for this detailed and informative video. I just did the front brakes on my 93 accord. Didn't think It was possible DIY with the captive rotors but with your help I was able to do it no issues.
I got to say, great video, nice way of doing repairs in a explanatory way, well spoken and illustrated. I like the many precautions you take as simple as installing a nut below the ball joint to hammer it preventing any BIG or major damages, that can cost more down the road. Something that interest me was what you said on the video at time: 1:43 - 2:10, in which it sounds like a "exact" problem that I had on my vehicle. For quite some time, my brakes were slipping, not cripping and my gear would vibrate a bit and I explained to my mechanic. After checking, he did find my caliper stuck and this was causing a metal burning smell, something that was driving me crazy. After replacing the caliper, I changed the pads because they were on just bare metal. However, the problem persisted. I kept getting the slipping and vibration at the gear. I recently changed the rotors and the problem went away, but the ABS light turned on. The vehicle was braking excellent, no problems, then when the ABS light turned off, the slipping started again. Do you know or can you tell if this problem could be something more than the brake assembly, such as a brake line, lost pressure or even something with the ABS sensor?
Have you had the ABS scanned for codes? Any of those things you mentioned could be an issue, as well as air in brake system. I would scan for codes, double check entire system and bleed brakes again.
Great video. Thank you for instructions.
Thank you for the comment!
As you may remember I'm not a professional mechanic so it's no wonder I've not seen this type of rotor set up but man I tell ya,l if I ever do see tis I'll know to charge accordingly. Lots of extra work but your tips along the way will help. Thanks for that.
Thanks for the comment Wyatt!
Awesome information that's what everyone needs to include torque specs very awesome info sir
Thanks 👍!
Dear Friend I havent seen any latest vidoe of yours which I enjoy and learn from them . I hopw and pray u are well and and Healthy.Bless yoru heart
Amazing tutorial! Subscribed!
Thanks for doing this man. I'm working on my buddy's pile of crap 91 Accord to install new hubs and I had him purchase the bolt in hubs, but I didn't know that they were pressed in. I have a 2001 CG1 6th gen Accord with a 3.2L Acura V6 swap with a six speed manual and a turbo, and my front and rear rotors aren't captive, so I didn't know that these were that bad to work on. You learn something new every day!
Yep, I'm not sure why they used this design for a little while. Thanks for the comment!
Good work bro, you really made a difficult job look easy.. Thank you very much. Good attention to detail. Wade Out.
Sir-thank you for such a detailed video.
Thank you 🙏🏻. It’s my 1st time I’m dealing with Captive Rotors and it has been a crazy learning experience. Your video helped a whole lot. Again thank you!!!!!! For making this video.
👍
Thank you sir! This was very helpful. I plan to do this in the near future.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
solid video and OMG I always thought the wheel bearing had to be replaced to changed these rotors!! I feel stupid . great video , now that I know its slightly easier to change these rotors I can pass those savings onto my customers(the few times I come across this style brakes). I always learn something from your vids.
The wheel bearings don't have to be replaced but it's not a bad idea to change them while you are in there. But of course, as you know, people that own old cars like these don't have money for extra parts like that! Thanks for the comment Jonathan!
On 5th gen Accords, the front hubs can be changed so regular rotors can be used. I did it on my 97" Accord. You reuse your stock calipers. I used the 4 lug bolt 1998 Acura CL hubs, but that's only because I just bought rims for the car. I really wanted to change all four hubs to 5 lug bolt; more choices when it comes to aftermarket rims.
Great job and instruction Dave! Keep the great content coming.
Thanks Mike! I look forward to seeing some more videos from you!
Great job. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment 👍!
Big Dog another great video!
Thank you for the comment!
Very nice walk through
Thanks!
Another great video
These are great cars, except for the space saving front brake rotor design. A true PITA. I did it once, and one bolt rounded due to corrosion. Good tip to loosen them first while on the car. It took me a day to extract it.
Very well made video man. Not criticizing, but if I had to go through that much trouble for rotors, it definitely would have had new hubs also. Lol. After being a class 8 diesel tech for 15 years, you get to the point where you replace any parts that would require a redo for what you just took apart on your own stuff😂
Yeah, I hear you. If it was my car I would have probably changed the wheel bearings out but this car belongs to someone else, I can only do what they want (or can afford). Thanks for the comment!
I like Honda's idea of a bolt-on wheel bearing but the captive rotor was like the hole in the ship that sunk it :(
Thankfully they changed it.
Thank a lot
👍
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Oil change video on this car: th-cam.com/video/tGSXo-N8m2g/w-d-xo.html
This is a big help I like my honda BUT idiots designed the ball joints having to do this with out removing the lower ball join is beyond seized it may as well be welded
I have a special press tool I got from Matco years ago design specially for this job.
👍
@@BigDog50001 💪
Youre the fuckin man. Thanks for this video!
Thanks 👍!
Nice video!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
How far do you screw the M10x1.25 100mm long bolts in?
Awesome 👍
Thanks!
This is very similar to the small Toyota pickups that have the serviceable bearings instead of hub assemblies.
OMG I wish it would be this easy with my ladies. Almost every nut was rusted and started stripping the moment I unscrew any of them. A quick change took weeks because everything had to be replaced and had to order extra extractor bolts because they kept getting stripped of over use. Don't enjoy working on Midwest rusted cars! lol
Very nice video!!! :)
Thank you very much!
And what kind of bit
The years the Honda designers took their advise from the junior appentice.
👍
AWESOME video sir! Great lighting, great clarity and great and thorough instructions! Thank you very much. I will be doing this also on my 92 Accord. First timer here and wanting to learn. Do you mind showing a picture of the exact lift point where you placed your floor jack to lift the front end? I am having difficulty finding this spot. Thanks much!
Thanks for the comment! I do not have a 1992 Accord to show a photo but this video here shows the lift point for a 1997 Accord which should be similar: th-cam.com/video/U71HSSLWgCI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you sir!
I watched your video & was very impressed, thought to myself I can do that to my old 1978 honda civic, boy was I wrong.I cannot get the rotor off, can you tell me the secret to it? My manuel says nothing about removing the rotor. Or is the 1978 honda even a captive rotor?
So what happens when your sacrificial bolts won’t help? The rotor just won’t budge.
Lots of penetrating oil and patience can help. Sometimes you have to walk away and then try again later. In rare cases it takes some extreme measures if they are really rusted in place.
@@BigDog50001 extreme measures? Sigh, greeeaattt!! Lol!!!
Dave another good informative video.Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge. First time for me at least seeing that hub rotor installation. Enjoy all your videos for the clear and precise way you video them. Also, thanks for the tools used posting. Need an angle die grinder and will definitely get those shop towels. COFFEE TIME. ❤️ Dave one more question what was that tool you used to push the pads back in. Looked like a nifty little tool 👍
That brake pad spreader is from OTC, I will update my links to include it amzn.to/2QBqesx. Thanks for the comment!
Nice work! Do you have a video on fuel filter replacement for the Gen V Accord?
I just attempted this job on my '97 Accord. I threaded in the four M10X1.25X100MM bolts by hand followed by driving them in with an impact then pounding them with a mini sledge hammer (don't have an air hammer). After countless hours of pounding the bolts, I could not free-up the bearing/hub assembly from the steering knuckle. I ended up removing the four bolts and noticed that all of their threads were trashed and one of the bearing bolt holes is now stripped. When you did this repair were the bolt threads all trashed afterwards? I am perplexed as what to do next... At this time I do not want to purchase an air compressor and air hammer. I could purchase another batch of bolts and try again though this time with the steering knuckle removed from the car allowing me to pound the bolts at a different angle though, I do not want to strip out the other three bearing bolt holes.
Sometimes they can be a bear to get out if the car lives in the rust belt and they have not been removed for a long time. I use bolts that do not have threads all the was to the end so that I can tighten them up and it reinforces them. Sometimes specialized tools like air hammers, presses and other techniques are the only way these come out.
Need to hit the bottom of the knuckles lmfao. Not the castle nut. One hit to the knuckle and pop. I live in North East. That honda is brand new compared to the ones out here. I have the same one lol. I'm lucky to have a good and almost rust free one. It's so easy to fix cars down there
Oh great so now I know how to do it but have none of the important tools 🤌
oil break faster finish sv4 1996
why?from malaysia
6:42 do you HAVE to losen those 4 bolts to get the whole Hub Assembly off? the bolts are cracked on mine and i cannot for the life of me get them off, i broke multiple sockets with and it just wont come off, i'll just buy a new assembly cuz the rotors are bad anyways and i was gonna get rid of them
honda accord 95 wiring system
I don't understand why Honda gave up on this system. I got a CL8 and it is such a pain to change the bearings on front.
Making it easier to change the rotors is a much better setup, I am glad Honda went away from this design.
@@BigDog50001 Sure, but there is other way to fit the rotor. I liked the way how the bearing was implemented. Like on VAG cars.
This is similar for 1996 Accord EX?
Should be similar.
Are the specks about the same for a 91 Accord? Great video.
Nope 91-93 back hub bolt aren’t 12mm. They’re some Persian bizarre aircraft head. My repair stopped right there.
I just had a new bearing pressed into the hub and the new rotor does not clear fitting over the bearing. I know it's a key'd design but every angle I maneuver the rotor it will not fit over the bearing. Both rotors and bearing are the correct part number for my vehicle ('97 Accord). I am unsure if it is wise to lightly grind the inner ridge of the rotor NOT the rotor's brake surface to see if that will provide enough clearance. I believe it's the bearing that is slightly beefier than the OEM one that is not providing enough clearance. I tried fitting the old rotor over the new bearing and it also has the same clearance issue which tells me for certain that it's the bearing. Have you ever experienced running into this issue?
That typically happens with aftermarket parts unfortunately. I am not a fan of having to grind them to make them fit.
@@BigDog50001 I'm not a fan of having to modify parts to fit either. Unfortunately I'm going to have to grind down the rotor to fit.
I need help literally. I can't find any forum. 4 bolts that hold the rotor on. I need the size or part number please. I can't put my car back together parts stores can't find them nothing. Please help.n
Can you please provide the link for the ball joint separator tool you showed?
OTC 6295 Front End Service Set: amzn.to/2H2P0im
tutorial on how to fix honda accord cabel95
Enjoyed the video. Where did you get the course disc for the angle die grinder?
Glad you like it! Coarse 2" Roloc Discs: amzn.to/2W1A0W5
Big Dog50001 Automotive Thank you!
I need to replace one lug nut screw. So I just need to remove the hub from my 95. Do I have to remove all that? Or is there an easier way?
TH-cam how to remove wheel stud it’s very simple
What volt drill are you using for the old screws
I believe I used Milwaukee 18V impact wrenches and Sunex impact sockets in this video. Links are in description and pinned comment.
What kind of cleaning disk did you use on the die grinder?
Coarse 2" Roloc Discs: amzn.to/2W1A0W5
👍
I appreciate all the thumbs up lol!
Where you get them bolts to take out the hub
Local hardware store.
Cool thanks
what if i dont have an air hammer
I mentioned it briefly in the video, but basically a regular hammer could be used but depending on the amount of rust it may take a while or not come off at all.
@@BigDog50001 got it. I had an idea and since the rotor was bad anyways I just hammered on the rotor and it came off
Citema cabel honda aco de 95
Citema cabel de honda accord de 95
Isn't all that difficult... For me without impact wrenches it would be easier if I remove the whole knuckle
f*** balls I'm screwed
all that work for a brake rotor. horrible design! who's the engineer who came up with that beauty??
I'm pretty sure they fired him a long time ago lol!
Just remove it
Very detailed. Thanks for the ideas