This video helped me a lot. Pay attention to the helpful tips. They were truly helpful. Pulling the starter wiring with the engine is a must. I think it may have been easier to pull the engine harness also mainly because of the knock sensor and injector wires. Thanks for the great video.
Did you recommend honing the cylinders prior to piston installation ? I am going to do this same job on my 2015 S3 with 208,000 miles on it. Great video ! Thanks so much !
I have delayed this job on my car, at 112.7K miles I did a Berryman B-12 piston soak, went from a quart oil consumption every 350 miles to already 2K and no oil added yet, 1/4 inch down on the dipstick. Obviously doesn't correct the design issue but a stopgap measure. The timing chain is on the radar but still within limits, when I have to do that, I will reassess whether to go deeper. Up to 16,800 miles, that's over 4000 miles with no abnormal oil consumption, seriously. Also just passed the NC emissions test, the stick has gone down a 1/4 qt. Oil change soon.
Hi mate, I'm thinking of doing the berrymans piston soak on my 2.0T A5, how did you find the whole process? Doesn't seem too hard just a bit sceptical about it.
@@DanielMaltyev I’m not exactly sure how much the current cost is but you’re looking at a few thousand around $2500 to do it yourself without paying labour. Hard to say exactly how much though. It would depend on your parts cost.
I’ve always just used a small amount of engine oil on bearing surfaces etc then disable the ignition and fuel for the first 30 seconds of cranking after reassembly. This helps pump oil through out and has never caused an issue. There’s no harm in using assembly lube if you prefer though.
Hey Awsome video thanks. I'm planning to rebuild my 2.0 TDI diesel ( code CAGA - ) engine and can't find info on how to adjust the valve timing (timing belt) with the crankshaft. Would you be abel to help ? Thank you
I’m glad you like the Video! Unfortunately I’m not as familiar with the CAGA engine. They were not nearly as common in our market and I never had the opportunity to replace a timing belt on one at the dealership.
Hey! Unfortunately I’ve been out of this trade for a few years now so I’m not sure exactly how much. Depending on the labour rate of the shop you choose, you’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian dollars) Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with that question. 😢
What did you use to clean to block surface? Did you reuse the transmission bolts and the flywheel bolts? Great video by the way. Thanks so much for all the information!!!
Hey thanks for the question! Those solenoids do not have to go back in the same order. They can go in wherever. Also the engine ECU does a “self test” on those solenoids, each time you cycle the ignition. So if you have issues, you’ll typically have a trouble code light right away. (May not set a check engine light until you drive it)
Hi there, how much would you charge for this job ? My 2009 B8 need the same treatment, would you be able to do it ? I've seen you're in the Toronto area, I'm a couple hours away. Thanks ✌
Hey thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately I don’t work in this trade anymore. Wish I could help you more. You’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian) at most shops though. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with your situation 😢
@@mattinglewoodhi there! I have Q5 2.0 B8 2012 engine gone 😢 can you rebuilt? And how much is going to cost? I’m Kitchener Ontario ! Let me know if you can do it? Thank you
Just quickly, I have a A4 b8 quattro s Tronic with a blown engine and I'm about to buy a 2011 TT 2.0 tfsi to replace it, both engines 155kw. I'm aware I'll have to change a few peices but any advise?
No problem! I’ve only ever done a used swap from a transverse car once before. I believe it should be pretty straight forward. The block and head are fairly similar.
Great rebuild tips, thanks. I am going to do this to my A5 in the coming few months. A few questions if I could ... 1). Which bolts do you definitely replace and which do you reuse, eg Conrod, upper sump, lower sump, head, rear main seal housing, timing cover, flywheel, trans to block bolts etc ? 2). Do you replace the bearing shells or inspect and reuse, eg Main and big end ? 3). do you use all OEM parts or have you used a good aftermarket kit / parts ever ? Thanks again.
Hey thanks for watching! 1.) I always replace the fallowing bolts -Connecting rod -upper oil pan -Upper camshaft bearing unit, bolts (these are a T30 torx head. You only need to replace those if you remove the cam shafts from the head) -Cylinder head bolts and gasket -Rear main seal bolts and housing -Flywheel bolts Also those aluminum bell housing bolts are suggested to be replaced after the second use but I’ve never seen them fail. 2.) I always re use the bearing shells but it helps to inspect them for any premature wear, while you’re in there. 3.) I never remove the main bearings 4.) I personally used OEM parts because I worked for the manufacturer. I’d say get a head gasket from Audi as well as the connecting rod bolts. Other than that you can get away with high quality aftermarket parts to save some money. Beware though…these cars use tight tolerance and specific fitment..so low quality gaskets/critical parts should be avoided. Hope that helps!
Hey thanks I hope this video helps you. -I always replace the lower and upper oil pan bolts Front lower chain cover bolts Connecting rod bolts Head bolts All seals and gaskets that I remove. I always re use the bearing shells I’ve always used OEM parts because I worked at the dealership but you could get away with some high quality aftermarket stuff.
hey man! amazing video appreciate it a lot. do you think that i could video call you someway and pay you for help or consulting, i am planning on installing performance pistons on my 2010 a4 b8 quattro this summer, should i install a cam too? or should i even do that🤔 thanks a lot!
First of, great video and great tips! Thank you. I am in the final phase of pulling the engine from the car, got everything separated from the engine and all the bolts out of the bell housing. I got it to separate about 1cm 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch, but it will not go further. I even used a small ratchet belt on the turbo to keep the engine straight, so that the right motor mount does not catch. I used a small prybar as well, but it will just not come out further. Is it possibly that the splines are sticky or rusty? Any suggestions for causes and fixes would be appreciated.
Hey Arne, thanks for the compliment, I’m really happy the video helped! I have run into that issue once or twice. If it’s an automatic you’ll want to make sure you’ve unbolted all of the torque converter bolts (some engines have 6 bolts and some only have 3 or 4). This is actually the same for manual as well. The clutch and flywheel stay in the transmission and you’re left with just a ring gear on the engine for the starter. Have a look inside while your prying the 2 half’s apart and pay close attention as to whether the clutch pack unit or torque converter are moving with the engine or staying in place with the transmission.
With all that being said. Sometimes the ring gear and clutch or torque converter get a bit rusted together and a gentle and patient amount of prying will help separate them.
Hey there, thanks for making this video and explaining as much as you do. I'm about to do this on my daughters q5. I'm not a mechanic, but done a bunch of engine work on my kids' Passat, golf tdi, bmw z3 etc.. You said someone would get billed about 19-25 hours by a dealership. Should I estimate it will take me two weekends? Or..?
Hey I’m glad it helps! Yeah I’d say 2 weekends for someone who has done a few German engine removals. I got these down to about 10-12 hours once I mastered them as a Seasoned Audi technician..with all the tools I needed, ready to go. The first time I did this job though. It took me about 20 hours.
Super video, my question is from a financial standpoint is it best to replace with a low mileage motor or is this just future issues, I love my car..first audi and it burns oil like an old ford...I'm looking at trading it but I prefer not to so any advice is appreciated
Hey, unfortunately unless you replace it with a used engine that has updated pistons…you’ll end up having the same issue. Unless you’re lucky enough to get a used engine with pistons updated. But yes, a used engine with updated pistons would be ideal, financially
Thanks for the informational video! Just a question, is there a reason why you don't change rod bearings? I'll be doing my own soon and was considering changing them while I have it apart, any considerations when doing so?
I’m glad it helps! To be honest, I worked for the dealer and the manufacturer doesn’t require new rod bearings when changing the pistons but if you have new bearings it wouldn’t hurt.
Hey, the nice part about doing it this way is that the A/C system stays charged. You just unbolt the compressor and swing it out of the way, while leaving the lines attached. No need to discharge freon.
I see u have a Shovelhead. Have a ‘13 q5 here 97k miles m, nice clean car, but is using 3.3quarts per thousand miles. My warranty company wants motor to be disassembled to see a failure before they will authorize a replacement. But if there is nothing to see then I am screwed. What should I do? They would have to see a broken ring or something that failed. I have to pay for the disassembly to point of failure
Hey, yeah unfortunately you’re probably not going to see any obvious mechanical damage or failure when you open the engine up, so you may get charged for the labour. Strange that it’s a 2013 with an oil burning issue, the latest models that I’ve seen with piston issues is 2012. They’d have to open the engine and carefully measure cylinder bores and ring gap. To be honest…even Audi (on the factory service level) won’t release pistons for the vehicle until it’s had a proper oil consumption test done and the tech sends in all the info. On a vehicle as new as yours…they used to make us measure the bore of each cylinder because the issue was supposed to be fixed by 2011 but somehow, there were still a few vehicles after that, which still consumed oil. With that being said…any vehicle I had that was 2012-2013 with this issue, never had any visible damage and all the cylinder bores always measured perfectly to spec. I replaced pistons anyhow…they never burned oil again🤷
I have a question, just purchased a 2016 a4 2.0 TFSI 109k miles, I was told by previous owner that it does burn oil, I believe It has the highest revision pistons. Says BP on them, is possible to just replace rings to solve the oil consumption issue? Thanks
Hey I’m sorry to hear about that! Yeah typically this only effected 2009-2012 then the pistons were updated. I’d say just replace the entire piston in your case. Not worth the trouble to take the chance, unless you have the time to try, and possibly have to go back in if rings don’t fix it completely. You’d want to inspect the condition of them first if possible.
@@mattinglewood appreciate your response Matt, just got the car running yesterday, put colbenshmidt pistons in it, my 2015 rings were truly dirty. So far runs amazing can’t be happier.
Thanks! I used factory pistons with the updated part number. I’ve done this procedure exactly this way…on maybe 40 vehicles, I’ve never seen an issue with oil consumption after the repairs. 👍 This particular vehicle now has a bigger turbo and a tune. Still runs flawlessly with no more oil burning 🙂
I'm planning to do pistons upgrade sooner and this really helps. This oil consumption issue is costly and needs fixing. Would you recommend me putting B8.5 pistons on a B8 A4?
I’m so happy this helps! It’s tough to say because some of these engines use pistons with a larger wrist pin, which means you’d have to change the connecting rods as well when you update the piston. In my opinion it’s best to order the pistons by the VIN number or measure your wrist pins first to make sure you order the correct version for what you have.
@@mattinglewood Buying the same OM piston will later cause the same issues. B8.5 pistons are manufactured better than the B8's. I will go with an older rod and piston to the stop and do some comparisons
@@psiturbo if the pistons are being ordered from the Dealer by VIN in Canada, they supersede to a new part number and they have been updated. Totally possible that it’s a different scenario in other countries though. I only have experience in the Canadian market.
As far as I know, you can’t buy the old type of piston from the dealer anymore. They’ve been superseded with an upgraded part and they stopped selling the old version quite a while ago. You can also buy aftermarket upgrades. Whichever works best for you.
How much would this job cost (ballpark)? and which city in Canada are you located? I'm in Toronto and looking for a shop that is capable of doing this for my 2012 a4
Hey Mark, I’m located north of Toronto. Most dealerships in the area should be able to handle a job like this pretty easily but it will be about 19-25 hours in labour. Im not too sure of the current parts costs but you’ll be into this for several thousand $ at a dealership. There are also a few good specialty VW Audi shops around that could probably give you more economical options but unfortunately I can’t recommend any specific independent shops.
Hahaha. Unfortunately I don’t do this stuff for a living anymore but I can always talk to you on the phone and bill you for the consultation if you need help. I’d be happy to help answer questions. Feels good to help people with these Audi’s.
Hey Lorenzo, unfortunately not😢 You have to unbolt the rear main seal in order to remove the upper oil pan (which is in the way on the connecting rod bolts.) Which means either the engine or transmission has to come out. Removing the engine is the easiest and fastest way.
@@mattinglewood damn thank you very much i was already thinking about attempting to take the other route but ima just either pay someone to swap my engine or i might just do it myself to dave an excessive amount of money
shit ton of info on here. is there a max amount of consumption where this fix wont help? im burning a quart around 250-500 miles. removed cat, added turbo wastegate clip and then i decided to run a valve cleaner through intake. then did timing chain and then crazy oil consumption. weird thing is this is faster now than its ever been but spitting oil out the back. white smoke mainly. also changed hpfp and a vacuum canister that sits under the intake
Hey, thanks for asking. Hopefully some of this info helps you. It’s sounds like you have an extreme case of oil consumption and you may need more repairs than just the pistons at this point. Replacing the pistons always makes a significant difference in oil consumption but I’ve never seen a vehicle that’s spitting oil out the tail pipe. It sounds like you may need more than just pistons but it’s really hard to say without taking the engine apart to see what’s up. There is also an updated crankcase breather valve and front crankshaft seal, which can both also contribute to higher oil consumption. I’d consider replacing those as well but it sounds like you may need a new short block, at this point.
You could replace the lower end bearings while you’re in there but to be honest. I’ve never seen bearings fail on this engine. Unless it was due to installation error of connecting rod caps or lack of oil. It’s always a good idea to check bearing condition while you’re in there. My policy on this is..if it ain’t broke…don’t fix it😊 If you don’t measure new bearing clearance with plastigauge to confirm it’s correct, it can also lead to a spun bearing.
Hi All, I have a 2012 Audi Q5 2.0T Premium that always has been well-maintained and never driven hard. Last year it suddenly started knocking with about 65k original miles. The local mechanic said he thinks the cylinder 4 rod bearing failed, and this failure allowed excessive play in the rod around the crankshaft, allowing the piston to travel further up in the bore, and causing it to contact the head. The car starts and runs but knocks hard. It is silver with a black leather interior, custom wheels, and new tires. The car has been parked for about a year since I wasn't sure if I wanted to sell or fix it. Does anyone know of a good place in Dallas that can rebuild this engine? I'm also open to possibly selling it as is, it has a clean Texas title and originally purchased it from the Audi dealer.
You’re correct. To be honest I leave the starter on the engine when I remove the engine. I just unbolt it from the transmission. Same with the engine mounts. I leave those attached to the block and unbolt them from the chassis.
Hey sorry, I’m not sure which part number I used. To be honest I always just order the updated version, through the dealer, by the VIN number. This will typically get you the correct piston for your engine. They no longer sell the old piston design. The part numbers also get updated periodically. Sorry. Wish I could be more helpful 🙂
In order to access the connecting rod bolts on this engine, you have to remove the upper oil pan. The engine and or transmission have to be removed on these vehicles, so that you can access all the bolts to remove that upper oil pan. You could try to do it with the engine installed if you wanted to but it would take way longer and you’d be doing more work than you have to.
The worst engine VW/Audi ever made. So many issues. I don't buy any VAG product anymore due to all of the issues with these cars. I have stopped many people from buying their cars after I told my story about owning a VW GTI MK6.
Hey good question. I’ve only ever worked for a dealership, so I was only ever using factory parts, which meant they were already “good to go” no need to check ring clearance. It never hurts to double check though. Just be very gentle with the rings when you’re taking them on and off. 🙂
@Mono Rocket Co. yeah bro I checked . It's said additional 90 deg. He doing wrong. He just tide bolts 15nm and no 90 that's why I check ur video ))) thank you for answering. God bless you .
This video helped me a lot. Pay attention to the helpful tips. They were truly helpful. Pulling the starter wiring with the engine is a must. I think it may have been easier to pull the engine harness also mainly because of the knock sensor and injector wires. Thanks for the great video.
Awesome! I’m really glad it helped!!🙌
Did you recommend honing the cylinders prior to piston installation ? I am going to do this same job on my 2015 S3 with 208,000 miles on it. Great video ! Thanks so much !
Hey I’m glad this helps!
There’s no real reason to hone cylinders while replacing these pistons. You should be good to go!
I have delayed this job on my car, at 112.7K miles I did a Berryman B-12 piston soak, went from a quart oil consumption every 350 miles to already 2K and no oil added yet, 1/4 inch down on the dipstick. Obviously doesn't correct the design issue but a stopgap measure. The timing chain is on the radar but still within limits, when I have to do that, I will reassess whether to go deeper. Up to 16,800 miles, that's over 4000 miles with no abnormal oil consumption, seriously. Also just passed the NC emissions test, the stick has gone down a 1/4 qt. Oil change soon.
Hi mate, I'm thinking of doing the berrymans piston soak on my 2.0T A5, how did you find the whole process? Doesn't seem too hard just a bit sceptical about it.
Great video! I wish you could just do mine😂
do you break in new piston rings and how exactly if you do?
Hey! There’s no real break in procedure. I usually start it and let it idle for 30-45 minutes then take it for a light to moderate drive.
This is a great video. To the point and great tips! Going to do my pistons this summer on both my B8's
Awesome! I’m really glad this helps!
@@mattinglewood how much did you take money for this job ?
@@DanielMaltyev I’m not exactly sure how much the current cost is but you’re looking at a few thousand around $2500 to do it yourself without paying labour. Hard to say exactly how much though. It would depend on your parts cost.
My 2010 A4 requires this. (nice work btw). The quote I received involves ~30 hrs of labour. Then add parts!
hello great video. question if my piston cylinders have a few grooves can it be honed an what pistons size would i then need?
If you can’t feel them when you scratch at them with your fingernail. You may be able to hone them out.
Wish I could find someone like you in Massachusetts to do this job on my 2011 A4
Wish I could help! 🙂
What about assembly lube
I’ve always just used a small amount of engine oil on bearing surfaces etc then disable the ignition and fuel for the first 30 seconds of cranking after reassembly.
This helps pump oil through out and has never caused an issue.
There’s no harm in using assembly lube if you prefer though.
Hey Awsome video thanks. I'm planning to rebuild my 2.0 TDI diesel ( code CAGA - ) engine and can't find info on how to adjust the valve timing (timing belt) with the crankshaft. Would you be abel to help ? Thank you
I’m glad you like the Video!
Unfortunately I’m not as familiar with the CAGA engine. They were not nearly as common in our market and I never had the opportunity to replace a timing belt on one at the dealership.
Hey, great Video How much does such a repair cost? I got a A5 B8
Hey! Unfortunately I’ve been out of this trade for a few years now so I’m not sure exactly how much. Depending on the labour rate of the shop you choose, you’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian dollars)
Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with that question. 😢
What did you use to clean to block surface? Did you reuse the transmission bolts and the flywheel bolts?
Great video by the way. Thanks so much for all the information!!!
I’m glad it helped! Yeah you can reuse the transmission bolts. I usually replace the flywheel bolts though.
Do you need to reflash the ecu if you change the engine?
Nope, one you complete the mechanical repair, you’re good to go!
ECM tuning stays the same.
Great video! Could you by chance post the part numbers for the rings and pistons?
Hey sorry I thought I had responded to this question for you a while back.
Unfortunately I not sure of the part number that you’ll require.
Just a question I got is the little selenoids on the exhaust cam I took them out any advice on putting them back on ? Are they random or numbered
Hey thanks for the question!
Those solenoids do not have to go back in the same order. They can go in wherever. Also the engine ECU does a “self test” on those solenoids, each time you cycle the ignition. So if you have issues, you’ll typically have a trouble code light right away. (May not set a check engine light until you drive it)
@@mattinglewood cool thanks, pistons are in hopeful engine is going back in tmr video helped a lot
Awesome!
How much did all this cost to do with new pistons, bolts, and silicone, etc..?
Hi there, how much would you charge for this job ? My 2009 B8 need the same treatment, would you be able to do it ? I've seen you're in the Toronto area, I'm a couple hours away.
Thanks ✌
Hey thanks for reaching out!
Unfortunately I don’t work in this trade anymore. Wish I could help you more.
You’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian) at most shops though.
Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with your situation 😢
@@mattinglewoodhi there! I have Q5 2.0 B8 2012 engine gone 😢 can you rebuilt? And how much is going to cost? I’m Kitchener Ontario ! Let me know if you can do it? Thank you
@@miska1971 hey, I’m really sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I don’t really do automotive work anymore.
Ok no problem
Just quickly, I have a A4 b8 quattro s Tronic with a blown engine and I'm about to buy a 2011 TT 2.0 tfsi to replace it, both engines 155kw.
I'm aware I'll have to change a few peices but any advise?
No problem! I’ve only ever done a used swap from a transverse car once before. I believe it should be pretty straight forward. The block and head are fairly similar.
Where did you get the pistion im working on a 2011 with the 2.0
I got these pistons from the Audi dealer near me.
Excellent!
Glad you liked it!
Great rebuild tips, thanks. I am going to do this to my A5 in the coming few months. A few questions if I could ... 1). Which bolts do you definitely replace and which do you reuse, eg Conrod, upper sump, lower sump, head, rear main seal housing, timing cover, flywheel, trans to block bolts etc ? 2). Do you replace the bearing shells or inspect and reuse, eg Main and big end ? 3). do you use all OEM parts or have you used a good aftermarket kit / parts ever ? Thanks again.
Hey thanks for watching!
1.) I always replace the fallowing bolts
-Connecting rod
-upper oil pan
-Upper camshaft bearing unit, bolts (these are a T30 torx head. You only need to replace those if you remove the cam shafts from the head)
-Cylinder head bolts and gasket
-Rear main seal bolts and housing
-Flywheel bolts
Also those aluminum bell housing bolts are suggested to be replaced after the second use but I’ve never seen them fail.
2.) I always re use the bearing shells but it helps to inspect them for any premature wear, while you’re in there.
3.) I never remove the main bearings
4.) I personally used OEM parts because I worked for the manufacturer. I’d say get a head gasket from Audi as well as the connecting rod bolts. Other than that you can get away with high quality aftermarket parts to save some money.
Beware though…these cars use tight tolerance and specific fitment..so low quality gaskets/critical parts should be avoided.
Hope that helps!
Hey thanks I hope this video helps you.
-I always replace the lower and upper oil pan bolts
Front lower chain cover bolts
Connecting rod bolts
Head bolts
All seals and gaskets that I remove.
I always re use the bearing shells
I’ve always used OEM parts because I worked at the dealership but you could get away with some high quality aftermarket stuff.
hey man! amazing video appreciate it a lot. do you think that i could video call you someway and pay you for help or consulting, i am planning on installing performance pistons on my 2010 a4 b8 quattro this summer, should i install a cam too? or should i even do that🤔 thanks a lot!
Hey thanks so much! I’m happy it helps!
I’d be interested in helping you with some consulting whenever you’re ready.
First of, great video and great tips! Thank you. I am in the final phase of pulling the engine from the car, got everything separated from the engine and all the bolts out of the bell housing. I got it to separate about 1cm 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch, but it will not go further. I even used a small ratchet belt on the turbo to keep the engine straight, so that the right motor mount does not catch. I used a small prybar as well, but it will just not come out further. Is it possibly that the splines are sticky or rusty? Any suggestions for causes and fixes would be appreciated.
Hey Arne, thanks for the compliment, I’m really happy the video helped!
I have run into that issue once or twice. If it’s an automatic you’ll want to make sure you’ve unbolted all of the torque converter bolts (some engines have 6 bolts and some only have 3 or 4).
This is actually the same for manual as well. The clutch and flywheel stay in the transmission and you’re left with just a ring gear on the engine for the starter.
Have a look inside while your prying the 2 half’s apart and pay close attention as to whether the clutch pack unit or torque converter are moving with the engine or staying in place with the transmission.
With all that being said. Sometimes the ring gear and clutch or torque converter get a bit rusted together and a gentle and patient amount of prying will help separate them.
Thank you!!!
No problem!! I hope it helped! 🙌
Hey there, thanks for making this video and explaining as much as you do. I'm about to do this on my daughters q5. I'm not a mechanic, but done a bunch of engine work on my kids' Passat, golf tdi, bmw z3 etc..
You said someone would get billed about 19-25 hours by a dealership. Should I estimate it will take me two weekends? Or..?
Hey I’m glad it helps!
Yeah I’d say 2 weekends for someone who has done a few German engine removals.
I got these down to about 10-12 hours once I mastered them as a Seasoned Audi technician..with all the tools I needed, ready to go.
The first time I did this job though. It took me about 20 hours.
I'm currently doing a chevy 5.3 LS SWAP IN MY B8 I think I can do this without doing the service position I don't want to take my bumper off
Videos?
Super video, my question is from a financial standpoint is it best to replace with a low mileage motor or is this just future issues, I love my car..first audi and it burns oil like an old ford...I'm looking at trading it but I prefer not to so any advice is appreciated
Hey, unfortunately unless you replace it with a used engine that has updated pistons…you’ll end up having the same issue.
Unless you’re lucky enough to get a used engine with pistons updated.
But yes, a used engine with updated pistons would be ideal, financially
Great video, just wondering if these pistons require any gapping of rings? Or do they come installed on pistons, ready to install?
Hey sorry it took a while to answer this. Just saw this question now.
No need to gap rings. The new factory piston rings will work just fine.
Thanks for the informational video! Just a question, is there a reason why you don't change rod bearings? I'll be doing my own soon and was considering changing them while I have it apart, any considerations when doing so?
I’m glad it helps!
To be honest, I worked for the dealer and the manufacturer doesn’t require new rod bearings when changing the pistons but if you have new bearings it wouldn’t hurt.
How did you let the AC out in your garage?
Hey, the nice part about doing it this way is that the A/C system stays charged. You just unbolt the compressor and swing it out of the way, while leaving the lines attached. No need to discharge freon.
Awesome, that's helpful to know. Was wondering if I had to evac, that would have required additional equip.@@mattinglewood
I see u have a Shovelhead. Have a ‘13 q5 here 97k miles m, nice clean car, but is using 3.3quarts per thousand miles. My warranty company wants motor to be disassembled to see a failure before they will authorize a replacement. But if there is nothing to see then I am screwed. What should I do? They would have to see a broken ring or something that failed. I have to pay for the disassembly to point of failure
Hey, yeah unfortunately you’re probably not going to see any obvious mechanical damage or failure when you open the engine up, so you may get charged for the labour.
Strange that it’s a 2013 with an oil burning issue, the latest models that I’ve seen with piston issues is 2012.
They’d have to open the engine and carefully measure cylinder bores and ring gap.
To be honest…even Audi (on the factory service level) won’t release pistons for the vehicle until it’s had a proper oil consumption test done and the tech sends in all the info.
On a vehicle as new as yours…they used to make us measure the bore of each cylinder because the issue was supposed to be fixed by 2011 but somehow, there were still a few vehicles after that, which still consumed oil.
With that being said…any vehicle I had that was 2012-2013 with this issue, never had any visible damage and all the cylinder bores always measured perfectly to spec.
I replaced pistons anyhow…they never burned oil again🤷
This is exactly what I am afraid of, no visible signs then I am stuck with the labour charge for nothing. Thanks for the fast reply man
Nace work thank you I like the video.
I have a question, just purchased a 2016 a4 2.0 TFSI 109k miles, I was told by previous owner that it does burn oil, I believe It has the highest revision pistons. Says BP on them, is possible to just replace rings to solve the oil consumption issue? Thanks
You would have to pull the pistons to update the rings anyway, why not just pay a couple more bucks and replace piston heads?
Hey I’m sorry to hear about that! Yeah typically this only effected 2009-2012 then the pistons were updated.
I’d say just replace the entire piston in your case. Not worth the trouble to take the chance, unless you have the time to try, and possibly have to go back in if rings don’t fix it completely.
You’d want to inspect the condition of them first if possible.
@@mattinglewood appreciate your response Matt, just got the car running yesterday, put colbenshmidt pistons in it, my 2015 rings were truly dirty. So far runs amazing can’t be happier.
Hi. Nice job. What kind of pistons and rings did you installed? Did it stop burning oil?
Thanks!
I used factory pistons with the updated part number. I’ve done this procedure exactly this way…on maybe 40 vehicles, I’ve never seen an issue with oil consumption after the repairs. 👍
This particular vehicle now has a bigger turbo and a tune. Still runs flawlessly with no more oil burning 🙂
@@mattinglewood Hello can you share the part number for the pistons thanks
I'm planning to do pistons upgrade sooner and this really helps. This oil consumption issue is costly and needs fixing. Would you recommend me putting B8.5 pistons on a B8 A4?
I’m so happy this helps! It’s tough to say because some of these engines use pistons with a larger wrist pin, which means you’d have to change the connecting rods as well when you update the piston. In my opinion it’s best to order the pistons by the VIN number or measure your wrist pins first to make sure you order the correct version for what you have.
@@mattinglewood Buying the same OM piston will later cause the same issues. B8.5 pistons are manufactured better than the B8's. I will go with an older rod and piston to the stop and do some comparisons
@@mattinglewood if he follows VIN then it is not an upgrade
@@psiturbo if the pistons are being ordered from the Dealer by VIN in Canada, they supersede to a new part number and they have been updated.
Totally possible that it’s a different scenario in other countries though. I only have experience in the Canadian market.
As far as I know, you can’t buy the old type of piston from the dealer anymore. They’ve been superseded with an upgraded part and they stopped selling the old version quite a while ago. You can also buy aftermarket upgrades. Whichever works best for you.
what year is this?
I believe this car was a 2010 😊
15:28
Hey man can you rebuild my 2.0 in my Audi I feel so desperate and I think I have enough money to rebuild it
Hey I wish I could help but unfortunately I don’t do this for a living anymore. Sorry 😞
How much would this job cost (ballpark)? and which city in Canada are you located? I'm in Toronto and looking for a shop that is capable of doing this for my 2012 a4
Hey Mark, I’m located north of Toronto. Most dealerships in the area should be able to handle a job like this pretty easily but it will be about 19-25 hours in labour. Im not too sure of the current parts costs but you’ll be into this for several thousand $ at a dealership.
There are also a few good specialty VW Audi shops around that could probably give you more economical options but unfortunately I can’t recommend any specific independent shops.
Dude could I send my B8 to you? I have some problems that could use your help fixing lol
Hahaha. Unfortunately I don’t do this stuff for a living anymore but I can always talk to you on the phone and bill you for the consultation if you need help.
I’d be happy to help answer questions. Feels good to help people with these Audi’s.
Where are you attaching engine hoist on back side of engine to have it hang correctly
Hey, I attach it where the transmission bolts would normally be.
@@mattinglewood that was a month ago lol
Did you use the same pistons?
No it’s critical that you use updated pistons due to the design of old pistons. Using the same pistons will eventually lead to the same issue.
Is it possible to change the pistons with out removing the engine from the car?
Hey Lorenzo, unfortunately not😢
You have to unbolt the rear main seal in order to remove the upper oil pan (which is in the way on the connecting rod bolts.)
Which means either the engine or transmission has to come out.
Removing the engine is the easiest and fastest way.
@@mattinglewood damn thank you very much i was already thinking about attempting to take the other route but ima just either pay someone to swap my engine or i might just do it myself to dave an excessive amount of money
shit ton of info on here. is there a max amount of consumption where this fix wont help? im burning a quart around 250-500 miles. removed cat, added turbo wastegate clip and then i decided to run a valve cleaner through intake. then did timing chain and then crazy oil consumption. weird thing is this is faster now than its ever been but spitting oil out the back. white smoke mainly. also changed hpfp and a vacuum canister that sits under the intake
Hey, thanks for asking. Hopefully some of this info helps you.
It’s sounds like you have an extreme case of oil consumption and you may need more repairs than just the pistons at this point. Replacing the pistons always makes a significant difference in oil consumption but I’ve never seen a vehicle that’s spitting oil out the tail pipe. It sounds like you may need more than just pistons but it’s really hard to say without taking the engine apart to see what’s up.
There is also an updated crankcase breather valve and front crankshaft seal, which can both also contribute to higher oil consumption. I’d consider replacing those as well but it sounds like you may need a new short block, at this point.
Why would you be this far in the motor and not change crank or rod bearings?
You could replace the lower end bearings while you’re in there but to be honest. I’ve never seen bearings fail on this engine. Unless it was due to installation error of connecting rod caps or lack of oil.
It’s always a good idea to check bearing condition while you’re in there. My policy on this is..if it ain’t broke…don’t fix it😊
If you don’t measure new bearing clearance with plastigauge to confirm it’s correct, it can also lead to a spun bearing.
Ontario Canada? Mastercraft wrench eh?
Yup 🙂
Hi All, I have a 2012 Audi Q5 2.0T Premium that always has been well-maintained and never driven hard. Last year it suddenly started knocking with about 65k original miles. The local mechanic said he thinks the cylinder 4 rod bearing failed, and this failure allowed excessive play in the rod around the crankshaft, allowing the piston to travel further up in the bore, and causing it to contact the head.
The car starts and runs but knocks hard. It is silver with a black leather interior, custom wheels, and new tires. The car has been parked for about a year since I wasn't sure if I wanted to sell or fix it. Does anyone know of a good place in Dallas that can rebuild this engine? I'm also open to possibly selling it as is, it has a clean Texas title and originally purchased it from the Audi dealer.
Did this solve your oil consumption issue?
Hey. Yes it did!
You didt show the hardest part which is the starter removal and engine mount removal for 1st timers, by far the hardest part of this engine removal.
You’re correct. To be honest I leave the starter on the engine when I remove the engine. I just unbolt it from the transmission.
Same with the engine mounts. I leave those attached to the block and unbolt them from the chassis.
@@mattinglewood Yea I saw that but diyers will be pulling their teeth out trying to figure that shit out
@@mattinglewood Also what part number did you use for the pistons?
Hey sorry, I’m not sure which part number I used. To be honest I always just order the updated version, through the dealer, by the VIN number.
This will typically get you the correct piston for your engine. They no longer sell the old piston design.
The part numbers also get updated periodically.
Sorry. Wish I could be more helpful 🙂
@@mattinglewood Not a problem how can I tell it's updated what do I look for? You touched on it briefly at the beginning.
Why remove engin for piston ?? You dont need to remove engin
In order to access the connecting rod bolts on this engine, you have to remove the upper oil pan. The engine and or transmission have to be removed on these vehicles, so that you can access all the bolts to remove that upper oil pan.
You could try to do it with the engine installed if you wanted to but it would take way longer and you’d be doing more work than you have to.
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Roughly $2000 CAD
The worst engine VW/Audi ever made. So many issues. I don't buy any VAG product anymore due to all of the issues with these cars. I have stopped many people from buying their cars after I told my story about owning a VW GTI MK6.
I know those rings come with the piston, did you have to gap those rings before install ? thanks
Hey good question.
I’ve only ever worked for a dealership, so I was only ever using factory parts, which meant they were already “good to go” no need to check ring clearance.
It never hurts to double check though. Just be very gentle with the rings when you’re taking them on and off. 🙂
another guys said on video just 15nm and no 90 degree wtf i dont know
Oh maybe I can help 🙂
What was that torque spec for?
@@mattinglewood hello upper pan)
@Nuclear8800 I’ve always done mine the way I suggest in this video 🤷.
The service manual definitely says they require a 90 degree stretch.
@Mono Rocket Co. yeah bro I checked . It's said additional 90 deg. He doing wrong. He just tide bolts 15nm and no 90 that's why I check ur video ))) thank you for answering. God bless you .
How much did all this cost to do with new pistons, bolts, and silicone, etc..?
To be honest. I don’t recall the parts cost but I believe this typically costs about $2500 CAD