Another great idea. I am going to give this a try. I shared with some friends of mine who might find this helpful. With a eye splice on the ends, I am less worried about the line being slippery. Thanks Clark!
New England Rope's dinghy tow line. 5000# tensile strength. Nylon outer cover for excellent UV resistance. Polypropylene core for float. Shock resistant. Ties and splices nicely. Done.
Nylon has good stretch and improves when wet. Nylon likely not as UV resistant as polyester line or dynema but I like the stretch that nylon offers for the shock loads on a dinghy painter.
We get about 4 years use out of this dinghy line before we replace. It's oversized for what it needs to be for strength for most dinghies so there is plenty of fudge factor. The day-glow yellow tones down pretty quickly in the sun. It's super bright at first but after a couple of months it has settled down and stays pretty constant for the next few years. You do have to closely watch for chafe though because the outer jacket is where all the load is being concentrated on. Polypropylene stretches so much that load won't be transferred to it until it has stretched to its limit and that can't happen until complete jacket failure.
Guys as usual great information. Clark, you were talking about following up with us on how your dinghy Painter would float as time went by. That might be a great opportunity to use TH-cam shorts to keep us informed and help with the TH-cam algorithm for you guys. And maybe in the shorts you could have a link back to this video. That concludes my two cents for the day. PS this is the second time I am watching this video and I am taking notes for future reference this season.
The battery information was invaluable. The second VoltGo 400 went into my boat yesterday, and today, I'm adding the proper fuses and on/off switches, and the project will be done (except for ordering the battery monitor!) Emily and you have a good mix of content. This video was timely since I mentioned to April yesterday that I was going to Google the best dinghy painters, and low and behold, you had just published this. Thanks again!
Let's hear it for long hair Clark! No scissors in 2024! Thanks for the great information. In my experience dyneema doesn't knot well until it's old and fuzzy like your painter - new out of the box it's terrible. It think the lithium battery issue has been covered pretty well at this point. They're so cheap now that it's really not as big a decision as it used to be so long as your system is ready for it.
I look forward to a "Care, feeding, and creating" of line for sailboats TH-cam including links to the tools you have found to be the best and necessary.
Great idea and will be making one for myself! The only thing I don’t agree with is the spring clip you use, I had a spring fail once so now I have everyone put a bowline knot through the center of the cleat, 8 years living on the hook with a family. Thank you for the great advice.
I have been using hollow core yellow polyprop safety line. It's so cheap that I replace it regularly. I have long wanted to have a dual-rope system for safety in case one breaks, and the co-axial thing is a fantastic inventive step. I have popped the two items into my Amazon cart, and will get fidding. BUT I still think more shock absorbtion is needed. I use a simple loop of 8mm shock-cord, backed up by a 'bypass' loop in the painter to limit its stretch and in case the shock cord breaks. I have this loop close to the dinghy bow. I have seen this loop stretching to its max in a heavy blow. Before we had it, the dinghy bow-ring actually got ripped clean off in a storm. Fortunately we had a second line attached. Thanks for the links, they actually work and showed the products on the uk site.
I started by putting a shock cord inside the dyneema. It absorbed energy (by squeezing the rubber) but it didn't float of course Thanks for the comment
Hi Clark! It has been a while since you made this video. I see in the description that in May you said this seems to be turning out to be a good long-term solution, which is great! I'd love to see a demonstration of the shock absorption properties of this construct. Battery videos are still great!!!
Just found your channel. Made my own version of the Splicing Wand many years ago that works the same way. I used a piece of copper pipe, cut one end at the required angle and sanded the sharp edges smooth and the tip to a point. Oddly enough, the angle is the same as a good anchor scope or a good scarf joint... about 7:1. The puller needle/cable was a bit more complicated, but not much. Anyway, your "The Splicing Wand" is still available at many places, but no longer at Amazon. One new sub for you. Good stuff. Thanks.
You developed BBMS for a hybrid acid-lithium battery system. You continue the hybrid ethos in a painter. Please continue the practice for other systems on boats.
Hmmm... As a long time viewer, I'll answer your question this way: I'm never going solar. I don't have space beyond the Bimini top for panels. A Lithium set-up is too expensive given the need for additional equipment (shunts, controllers, inverters, etc.). I don't need or want tons of gizmos. And, AGMs will last as long as I do (I'm old) and they're cheaper, even if I do have to replace all three group 27's! But I am intrigued with your dinghy painter set-up. So, MORE PLEASE! 😁
I've often wondered whether equipment from off-road recovery - especially kinetic ropes - would have cross purposes in sailing applications - your reasoning behind the qualities required in this painter actually go in that direction as well. I think the requirements you list, especially the shock absorption, would also apply to an anchor bridle. Great video, especially the trial - fail - backup and do it a different way. Helps us to remember we're all human!
There already is a lot of sharing between the two, especially when it comes to using some form of HMPE rope(Dyneema or Amsteel) for winch lines. The "kinetic" recovery ropes used in off-road applications would not be good for marine applications because most of the good ones have a polymer coating that makes them slick and take forever to fully dry out. The polymer coating on the kinetic rope provides a lot of UV and needed friction protection, so I wouldn't get them without the coating despite it limiting their use for unintended applications.
"Quick Fid" -- At Goodwill, Salvation Army, thrift-shop, etc. Look for used knitting needles. The metal ones are usually hollow. Look for something close to the diameter of the rope you want to insert. Cut the non-pointed end off the knitting needle and stuff your "stuffin' rope" inside, taping it a bit so it doesn't slip out/off. It pushes easily through hollow braid and you can snake a 'core' up a line pretty quickly. I've never seen your polypro/dyneema idea before, but you can bet I'm gonna' make a dingy painter just like yours. What a great idea! No more bringing the dink up alongside when coming into a marina and moving it around as needed, etc. Just let it float 'til I'm docked. Thanks for a great tip. And, say hello to your new subscriber!
Thanks. Feeling good. My back is great. We might even sail again sometime. I was basically debilitated with back pain after the first big COVID. Of late my back feels better then in my 30s
I made my own fid set using knitting needles. I simply cut them to length and rounded over the cut edge with some sandpaper. That said, I do like the look of the splicing wand.
Would love to see/know how inches of stretch you get from 30’ of this combination. Let us know what the line extends to under say 400 lbs of force (roughly 2x a 10’ RIB with a 10hp motor on it). Also, how easily does it tie up with the added thickness and will the poly harden up over time or does it stay relatively soft? Thanks, and for what it’s work, I like it when you mix up the content. Fair winds!
I have had a further idea. You guys with inflatable dinghies (most of you) might not have to worry about stretch as much. I mean your boat stretches right? Floating is still crucial.
Hi ,thanks for your video, riging or battery or knots, it's all good part of boat life There's lots of boat fibreglass work out there, Shade awning is also good to consider.
I just make a new thick pollyprop one every year. The line is super cheap and i haven't had any issues, but I'm in Canada so I don't have the UV damage you do. Once I get down south I'll make sure to do this! (if it holds up ;) great video.
Yeah, you really don't want your dinghy to get away in rough weather! Actually, Clark, that is a great idea. I've used the polypropylene line you showed for decades and it doesn't last past a season or two. Good job.
Yep. Everyone when we lost our dinghy it was this guy who took us to get it in his dinghy. He had to leave his big boat at anchor alone in really scarry conditions to do it. Thanks Don
I'm confused Clark. Dyneema floats all by itself (one of its properties} and polypropylene is known for its low stretch. Love the battery stuff but I'm about to purchase so probably less so over time. I'll be picking up one of your BBMSs as well. Cheers
I found that in this growy bay after about a month in the water it starts sinking and I'm counting on the compression of the inner line to absorb shock. Hope it all works. Time will tell. I know more about batteries than rope.
I've had a very similar idea rattling around in the old brain for a while now for a different application that also needs UV resistance, stretch and flotation. I'm just not sure if the compression of a polypropylene core will give me the stretch I need. I've thought about some sort of closed cell foam core, but I think the foam will be injured by knots and cleating. Only one way to find out I guess.
If you need more stretch I suggest bunji cord inside. I've done this before but I don't think I mentioned it in the video. I find I had to rebury the end now and again. I only ran about 5 feet of it for the effect I needed. If I did it again I'd whipp over the ends of the bunji cord
@@Clarks-Adventure I think I could make it work with a short section of super stretch and the rest relying on compression, I will have to test it out. I need something big enough to heave on without it hurting the hands, Dyneema has more than enough strength and the PP core bulks it up. They also make Dyneema chafe sleeve (Samson DC Guard 706) which has a lot more room for a core, but it isn't cheap.
One of the downsides of Dyneema is that it expands and becomes loose in cold weather but your incorporating the polypropyline inside might mitigate that disadvantage as well as the other benefits you are expecting.
Interesting idea. Was there enough room inside the Dyneema to splice it with the poly inside the splice? Also I'm wondering if that thin poly line would simply snap if it took up a snatch load before the dyneema was fully elongated. Conversely if the dyneema takes the load before the poly has fully stretched there would be no spring in the system which obviously wouldn't be good.
@@Clarks-Adventure I love the life jacket idea. I'm just not convinced about the shock absorption element. I wonder if some rope float balls on a nylon line might work as a stretchier floating alternative
I am NOT sick of you doing battery videos but then I anticipate that I'll installing some new batteries in my RV in a couple of years or less. That said I also enjoy the boating videos although they aren't quite a useful to me. However the question of the day is why is it called a painter? Keep the good stuff coming Clark.
My latest big-brain idea was buying a dozen empty bingo dauber bottles and filling them with teak oil. No drips, slide it along the handrails like you’re using a magic marker. Squeeze it gently if you want a little heavier flow.
1. Your hair looks fabulous! 2. Is the poly core intended to take part of the load and stretch before the dynema takes load? Or is it just intended to spread the dynema and serve as a cushion/compress under load. I ask because I was wondering if you run the poly core through the shackle and back into the dynema splice.
The dyneema is just so strong it doesn't matter but if you cut all the dyneema at a point in the middle the line would be as strong as the poly even without including it in the splice. The "Chinese handcuff" effect of being in the core of a single braid is crazy strong. Probably 3 feet would be stronger than any knot.
I just signed a contract with a company to sell it. With the BankManager it was just too much to do for a retired guy. My design will be available and a new one that is plug and play and really tiny. Your best bet is to go to the description of any of my AC videos and fill out the survey. That will put you on a mailing list. Or wait for MarineDCAC.com to come on line.
? I have review videos on batteries. I really like the VoltGo. I use one on my boat along with some others, it's the best I have. I also use a BankManager of course. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
Seems it should work. I haven't myself. I seem to remember uhdpe was subject to creep but it's used for standing rigging it should make good halyards Google it Someone will have a better opinion then me
Yes, New England Ropes EnduraBraid (dynema double braid) for example is suitable for halyards. A 12-strand hollow braid might not be good since it would tend to slip more on the winch. Dynema halyards can be smaller diameter than Dacron, so consider clutch sizes, for example, a clutch sized for 7/16” Dacron might not grip well on 3/8” Dynema.
How about length, what length do you suggest for a painter? especially since you also list it as an anchor line. Sounds like a vid subject, but I'd really appreciate the answer now, PLEASE!!!!, lol.
@@Clarks-Adventure lol, what do you tie it off at when next to or behind the boat and I'm just north of sunny Sydney Australia, 2 weeks of wet cold crap weather :(
Ok Clark this is the first video of yours I can’t agree on. Well not all the video, but specifically the part you mentioned Dyneema as rigging and the reason you wouldn’t use it for rigging is knives exist. Well first off by that reasoning you shouldn’t use wire rope for rigging becuase bolt cutters exist. When I replaced my bobstay with Dyneema (with a Chaff sleeve) I cut the 1/4 inch 19/1 wire with a pair of vise grips with a cutter on them. It took two seconds. On the flip side it takes a really sharp knife to cut Dyneema line and yes you can cut it but I can cut wire rigging also. Large sailing ships used Hemp rope for standing rigging for centuries and ya you can cut it with a knife. Also battery operated saws all’s with a hacksaw blade will cut stainless steel faster then you can say stolen catalytic converter. It would work just as well on wire rigging. And should I be a nefarious Type with a beef I wouldn’t want to cut all the way through your wire rigging no then it might fail while I’m still around to be caught. I would only damage the wire by cutting only a few strands near a fitting and let it fail on you over time when you are out to sea loading the rigging. So you may not want synthetic rigging for many reasons like its properties vs wire but because it could be cut with a knife is the weakest of arguments against it. You may prefer wire rigging and that’s fine Dyneema is not for everyone or all boats. But the last consideration I thought of was someone who hates me would cut my standing rigging. There are already many things a would be vandal could do like cut your Halyards or furling lines. Even if you have wire rigging. (And my 29ft boat the wire rigging could be cut just as fast with some good wire cutters, as a knife on Dyneema. As for Dyneema as a dingy painter someone could also cut your dingy free as well. Then Dyneema floats without the ploy line inside and Dyneema is low stretch line that’s why it’s used in rigging that is once you get the constructional stretch out. When. You opened the braid and feed the poly line inside you created a lot of constructional stretch potential as until the braid is pulled tight again your hybrid line you created will have stretch. Or shock absorbing potential because you opened the braid of the Dyneema. As for knots in Dyneema well actually it is slippery there are knots that will hold better in Dyneema but others will pull out when under load. A eye splice is far better with Dyneema than a knot. And an eye splice done correctly in Dyneema keeps most of the strength a knit will weaken the line to 40% of its strength . ( which as a dingy painter that is irrelevant as the size line your using is way stronger then any load it will ever get during that use.) I use Dyneema for many uses on my boat and a dingy painter is not one of those uses. us.binnacle.com/images/productimages/46082A-MED.jpg this is the line I use.
Hi Michael Thanks for watching. Yep, new dyneema is slick. Mine is good with knots at its age. I missed this and put it in the description. We are all captains of our own boats. And are free to rig our boats any way we like. I was just expressing an issue with fiber that I've found many haven't considered. I carry a knife, I don't tend to carry a battery saws-all. I think that goes for many people out there.
Neat idea but the dyneema is still going to be slippery and will be more likely to untie itself if it is used as a jacket material over polypropylene. I'm dubious about the shock absorption of this hybrid compared to nylon or poly. New England Ropes already makes a hybrid dinghy painter rope that is polypropylene in the core and a nylon jacketed outer layer to protect the polypropylene inner core. It's not that expensive for the 7/16" size Even worstmarine sells it for $1.69/foot but I've seen it much closer to a buck a foot at discount places like Hamilton. We get about 5 years out of this line before we stop trusting it for towing use and it gets relegated as the aft line on the dinghy because we always side tie since we have nowhere to get off at the transom of the mothership. We also never ever trust just ONE line to secure the dinghy. Even when we are towing we run the aft line forward and just a tad looser just in case -belt and suspenders style. Lines can sometimes become untied or the cleat hitch can fail. The only time we use just the painter is at a dinghy dock and because we have such a long painter we usually run through the cleat and then back to the dinghy so there is effectively two lines there anyhow. We've had people untie our dinghy at dinghy docks and then not tie a proper knot again and we have found our painter loose one turn around a pole and once even in the water and only the press of other boats keeping it from drifting away in the current so we have begun to also use a cable lock in many places in the US where we never did in years past because a press of newbie cruisers have never learned proper dinghy dock etiquette. Don't mess with other people's lines folks and if you absolutely have no choice then make DARN sure you tie a proper knot... it happened three times in as many week last fall going south at different marinas in Florida. This NEVER happened in years past.
Very similar concept to kernmantle ropes used in climbing - a composite to maximize the benefits of multiple materials. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kernmantle_rope
![Cruising Etiquette: Do's and Don'ts [Q&A with Emily & Clark]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Uzj6NzhUsEU/mqdefault.jpg)
Ok, I think you are onto something, here. Can't wait for the results so I can piggyback on your good ideas without all the "thinking" parts 😉
Another great idea. I am going to give this a try. I shared with some friends of mine who might find this helpful. With a eye splice on the ends, I am less worried about the line being slippery. Thanks Clark!
New England Rope's dinghy tow line. 5000# tensile strength. Nylon outer cover for excellent UV resistance. Polypropylene core for float. Shock resistant. Ties and splices nicely. Done.
Seems like a great product
Whish I know about it
Nylon has good stretch and improves when wet. Nylon likely not as UV resistant as polyester line or dynema but I like the stretch that nylon offers for the shock loads on a dinghy painter.
We get about 4 years use out of this dinghy line before we replace. It's oversized for what it needs to be for strength for most dinghies so there is plenty of fudge factor.
The day-glow yellow tones down pretty quickly in the sun. It's super bright at first but after a couple of months it has settled down and stays pretty constant for the next few years.
You do have to closely watch for chafe though because the outer jacket is where all the load is being concentrated on. Polypropylene stretches so much that load won't be transferred to it until it has stretched to its limit and that can't happen until complete jacket failure.
Enjoyed the battery deep dives and would also very much enjoy rigging tutorials!
Nice
Guys as usual great information. Clark, you were talking about following up with us on how your dinghy Painter would float as time went by. That might be a great opportunity to use TH-cam shorts to keep us informed and help with the TH-cam algorithm for you guys. And maybe in the shorts you could have a link back to this video. That concludes my two cents for the day.
PS this is the second time I am watching this video and I am taking notes for future reference this season.
Love the battery review series. But absolutely want to see your other ideas. And hoping you guys get back to some passages and travel logs.
Great idea once again. Looks like the yacht behind bonked into the catamaran.
Thanks,
I didn't hear anything. Everything behind me is on sturdy moorings. It's hard to tell without depth perception I guess.
The battery information was invaluable. The second VoltGo 400 went into my boat yesterday, and today, I'm adding the proper fuses and on/off switches, and the project will be done (except for ordering the battery monitor!) Emily and you have a good mix of content. This video was timely since I mentioned to April yesterday that I was going to Google the best dinghy painters, and low and behold, you had just published this. Thanks again!
I like your channel, very good information. We have an old Hincky 49 CC we have been working on for three years. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for saying that
New england ropes makes a version of this with nylon as the outer jacket. 3/8 & 7/16. Labeled "dinghy tow rope" at defender and west marine.
I didn't know about this. Sounds just right.
I really love how your thought process tackles a challenge. This procedure is a work of art, and engineering.
Let's hear it for long hair Clark! No scissors in 2024! Thanks for the great information. In my experience dyneema doesn't knot well until it's old and fuzzy like your painter - new out of the box it's terrible. It think the lithium battery issue has been covered pretty well at this point. They're so cheap now that it's really not as big a decision as it used to be so long as your system is ready for it.
You are right about the knot holding. I forgot what it was like new.
I look forward to a "Care, feeding, and creating" of line for sailboats TH-cam including links to the tools you have found to be the best and necessary.
Good idea.
Great idea and will be making one for myself! The only thing I don’t agree with is the spring clip you use, I had a spring fail once so now I have everyone put a bowline knot through the center of the cleat, 8 years living on the hook with a family. Thank you for the great advice.
I have been using hollow core yellow polyprop safety line. It's so cheap that I replace it regularly. I have long wanted to have a dual-rope system for safety in case one breaks, and the co-axial thing is a fantastic inventive step. I have popped the two items into my Amazon cart, and will get fidding.
BUT I still think more shock absorbtion is needed. I use a simple loop of 8mm shock-cord, backed up by a 'bypass' loop in the painter to limit its stretch and in case the shock cord breaks. I have this loop close to the dinghy bow. I have seen this loop stretching to its max in a heavy blow. Before we had it, the dinghy bow-ring actually got ripped clean off in a storm. Fortunately we had a second line attached.
Thanks for the links, they actually work and showed the products on the uk site.
I started by putting a shock cord inside the dyneema. It absorbed energy (by squeezing the rubber) but it didn't float of course
Thanks for the comment
Hi Clark! It has been a while since you made this video. I see in the description that in May you said this seems to be turning out to be a good long-term solution, which is great! I'd love to see a demonstration of the shock absorption properties of this construct. Battery videos are still great!!!
I like your thinking, excellent idea! Thank you.
That is a very clever solution. Thanks for the great ideas.
thanks clark, definitely interested to hear about the stretch in the hybrid. if it is performing as you had anticipated, great idea!-
I like the battery and rigging videos.
I will take the chance with you. Im thinking of tying a short piece on some place just to check after a year. Thank you
Just found your channel. Made my own version of the Splicing Wand many years ago that works the same way. I used a piece of copper pipe, cut one end at the required angle and sanded the sharp edges smooth and the tip to a point. Oddly enough, the angle is the same as a good anchor scope or a good scarf joint... about 7:1. The puller needle/cable was a bit more complicated, but not much. Anyway, your "The Splicing Wand" is still available at many places, but no longer at Amazon. One new sub for you. Good stuff. Thanks.
You developed BBMS for a hybrid acid-lithium battery system. You continue the hybrid ethos in a painter. Please continue the practice for other systems on boats.
Hmmm... As a long time viewer, I'll answer your question this way:
I'm never going solar. I don't have space beyond the Bimini top for panels. A Lithium set-up is too expensive given the need for additional equipment (shunts, controllers, inverters, etc.). I don't need or want tons of gizmos. And, AGMs will last as long as I do (I'm old) and they're cheaper, even if I do have to replace all three group 27's!
But I am intrigued with your dinghy painter set-up. So, MORE PLEASE! 😁
I've often wondered whether equipment from off-road recovery - especially kinetic ropes - would have cross purposes in sailing applications - your reasoning behind the qualities required in this painter actually go in that direction as well. I think the requirements you list, especially the shock absorption, would also apply to an anchor bridle. Great video, especially the trial - fail - backup and do it a different way. Helps us to remember we're all human!
There already is a lot of sharing between the two, especially when it comes to using some form of HMPE rope(Dyneema or Amsteel) for winch lines. The "kinetic" recovery ropes used in off-road applications would not be good for marine applications because most of the good ones have a polymer coating that makes them slick and take forever to fully dry out. The polymer coating on the kinetic rope provides a lot of UV and needed friction protection, so I wouldn't get them without the coating despite it limiting their use for unintended applications.
I love when Clark talks about his dinghy!
Good thinking! I will check back. Thank you for your effort
"Quick Fid" -- At Goodwill, Salvation Army, thrift-shop, etc. Look for used knitting needles. The metal ones are usually hollow. Look for something close to the diameter of the rope you want to insert. Cut the non-pointed end off the knitting needle and stuff your "stuffin' rope" inside, taping it a bit so it doesn't slip out/off. It pushes easily through hollow braid and you can snake a 'core' up a line pretty quickly. I've never seen your polypro/dyneema idea before, but you can bet I'm gonna' make a dingy painter just like yours. What a great idea! No more bringing the dink up alongside when coming into a marina and moving it around as needed, etc. Just let it float 'til I'm docked. Thanks for a great tip. And, say hello to your new subscriber!
Thanks
And I like your idea a lot. For this project that would be the perfect tool. Faster than my splicing wand.
I so like the way you think! Plus, you are looking really healthy again!
Thanks.
Feeling good. My back is great. We might even sail again sometime. I was basically debilitated with back pain after the first big COVID. Of late my back feels better then in my 30s
I just LOVE this video!!! Thank you Clark!
“someone that owns knife technology” haha. nice videos. good info
I made my own fid set using knitting needles. I simply cut them to length and rounded over the cut edge with some sandpaper. That said, I do like the look of the splicing wand.
Interesting Video...Just a thought, the throw rope that is used in kayaking addresses all your criteria.
Yes but being polypropylene it dies quickly in the sun.
Would love to see/know how inches of stretch you get from 30’ of this combination. Let us know what the line extends to under say 400 lbs of force (roughly 2x a 10’ RIB with a 10hp motor on it). Also, how easily does it tie up with the added thickness and will the poly harden up over time or does it stay relatively soft? Thanks, and for what it’s work, I like it when you mix up the content. Fair winds!
Yes please! I have the same question.
I have had a further idea. You guys with inflatable dinghies (most of you) might not have to worry about stretch as much. I mean your boat stretches right?
Floating is still crucial.
actually all the videos you post are good, I even made a shade cover like you did pretty cool
Thanks.
I hope to see a "dragon wing" awning on a boat I run into someday.
I haven't yet
Hi ,thanks for your video, riging or battery or knots, it's all good part of boat life
There's lots of boat fibreglass work out there,
Shade awning is also good to consider.
Thanks George,
Have you seen this one?
th-cam.com/video/LsnM-ce-M0E/w-d-xo.html
I just make a new thick pollyprop one every year. The line is super cheap and i haven't had any issues, but I'm in Canada so I don't have the UV damage you do. Once I get down south I'll make sure to do this! (if it holds up ;) great video.
Thank you. I enjoy your Chanel. I’m making one to tow behind my new to me Nonsuch Ultra 30 From Tenants Harbor Maine
Great video, love your channel!
Yeah, you really don't want your dinghy to get away in rough weather! Actually, Clark, that is a great idea. I've used the polypropylene line you showed for decades and it doesn't last past a season or two. Good job.
Yep.
Everyone when we lost our dinghy it was this guy who took us to get it in his dinghy.
He had to leave his big boat at anchor alone in really scarry conditions to do it.
Thanks Don
@@Clarks-Adventure anytime buddy.
Shock cord that floats would be good for this! Not sure if it exists?
I'm confused Clark. Dyneema floats all by itself (one of its properties} and polypropylene is known for its low stretch. Love the battery stuff but I'm about to purchase so probably less so over time. I'll be picking up one of your BBMSs as well.
Cheers
I found that in this growy bay after about a month in the water it starts sinking and I'm counting on the compression of the inner line to absorb shock.
Hope it all works. Time will tell.
I know more about batteries than rope.
I've had a very similar idea rattling around in the old brain for a while now for a different application that also needs UV resistance, stretch and flotation. I'm just not sure if the compression of a polypropylene core will give me the stretch I need. I've thought about some sort of closed cell foam core, but I think the foam will be injured by knots and cleating. Only one way to find out I guess.
If you need more stretch I suggest bunji cord inside. I've done this before but I don't think I mentioned it in the video.
I find I had to rebury the end now and again. I only ran about 5 feet of it for the effect I needed. If I did it again I'd whipp over the ends of the bunji cord
@@Clarks-Adventure I think I could make it work with a short section of super stretch and the rest relying on compression, I will have to test it out.
I need something big enough to heave on without it hurting the hands, Dyneema has more than enough strength and the PP core bulks it up. They also make Dyneema chafe sleeve (Samson DC Guard 706) which has a lot more room for a core, but it isn't cheap.
One of the downsides of Dyneema is that it expands and becomes loose in cold weather but your incorporating the polypropyline inside might mitigate that disadvantage as well as the other benefits you are expecting.
Hi Clarke,
Still looking a bit expensive in the UK, hopefully price will drop when European patent finishes end of this year.
I don't know what you are talking about. Rope?
Oh. Maybe dyneema. Sorry to hear that.
Interesting idea. Was there enough room inside the Dyneema to splice it with the poly inside the splice?
Also I'm wondering if that thin poly line would simply snap if it took up a snatch load before the dyneema was fully elongated. Conversely if the dyneema takes the load before the poly has fully stretched there would be no spring in the system which obviously wouldn't be good.
You might want to rewatch.
The job of the poly is life jacked and something to compress. Even if it was cut into 10 inch pieces this would work.
@@Clarks-Adventure I love the life jacket idea. I'm just not convinced about the shock absorption element. I wonder if some rope float balls on a nylon line might work as a stretchier floating alternative
thx. very clever
I am NOT sick of you doing battery videos but then I anticipate that I'll installing some new batteries in my RV in a couple of years or less. That said I also enjoy the boating videos although they aren't quite a useful to me. However the question of the day is why is it called a painter? Keep the good stuff coming Clark.
Thanks
Cool dude 👍
What about fresh water?
It's a bit lighter so it's harder to float in
But I fully expect this to work there as well.
My early sailing was in lake Ontario
Once again. Another great idea
Thanks Brad
My latest big-brain idea was buying a dozen empty bingo dauber bottles and filling them with teak oil. No drips, slide it along the handrails like you’re using a magic marker. Squeeze it gently if you want a little heavier flow.
Just lost my dingy on tuesday. The d ring I had my line shackled too gave out in high winds.
Was it a welded d ring?
@@Clarks-Adventure yes.
Sorry to hear that.
1. Your hair looks fabulous!
2. Is the poly core intended to take part of the load and stretch before the dynema takes load? Or is it just intended to spread the dynema and serve as a cushion/compress under load.
I ask because I was wondering if you run the poly core through the shackle and back into the dynema splice.
The dyneema is just so strong it doesn't matter but if you cut all the dyneema at a point in the middle the line would be as strong as the poly even without including it in the splice.
The "Chinese handcuff" effect of being in the core of a single braid is crazy strong. Probably 3 feet would be stronger than any knot.
Oh. And Emily agrees. She is why it's long and in my way all the time.
Do you still sell the battery powered 1 cabin AC units?
I just signed a contract with a company to sell it. With the BankManager it was just too much to do for a retired guy.
My design will be available and a new one that is plug and play and really tiny.
Your best bet is to go to the description of any of my AC videos and fill out the survey. That will put you on a mailing list.
Or wait for MarineDCAC.com to come on line.
Are they a good 400 amp lithium battery that you know of that I can buy for my boat
?
I have review videos on batteries. I really like the VoltGo.
I use one on my boat along with some others, it's the best I have. I also use a BankManager of course.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
Question Can you Replace replace the Halyards wire with Dyneema?
Seems it should work. I haven't myself. I seem to remember uhdpe was subject to creep but it's used for standing rigging it should make good halyards
Google it
Someone will have a better opinion then me
Yes, New England Ropes EnduraBraid (dynema double braid) for example is suitable for halyards. A 12-strand hollow braid might not be good since it would tend to slip more on the winch. Dynema halyards can be smaller diameter than Dacron, so consider clutch sizes, for example, a clutch sized for 7/16” Dacron might not grip well on 3/8” Dynema.
What diameter is the poly rope you are using? Thx
I think it could be 1/4 now that I've done it but this was 3/16. There is a link to what I used in the description.
You also need to look at its anti chafe as where you attach it to the dingy the painter can wear away
I did comment on the chafe. I showed where it was abused and that it stood up quite well
@@Clarks-Adventure it was a great video. We just remember our dingy floating away cause a painter had chaffed though
Sure looks like Luperon in the background😊
Yep. Near the old yacht club
Hi Clark, the polypro link is broken. What diameter and construction did you use?
As I say in the video there are links in the video description
That Amazon link goes to a page showing multiple types of rope. ( I'm in Canada ). I assume that it is 3/16 braid.
Yeah that sounds right 1/4 dyneema and 3/16 polypropylene
Good idea! Did you use 1/4" polypro for the core?
It's linked in the description.
3/16 but 1/4 looks like it would fit
@@Clarks-Adventure Thanks Clark! The link just goes to a generic rope page.
I told Emily. I hope she fixes it
How about length, what length do you suggest for a painter? especially since you also list it as an anchor line. Sounds like a vid subject, but I'd really appreciate the answer now, PLEASE!!!!, lol.
Like I said in the video. I used a 50' length of dyneema. A link to it is in the description and in our Amazon store
@@Clarks-Adventure My bad, but glad I asked, I never thought it would only be 50 inches.
Woops. 50 feet
@@Clarks-Adventure lol, what do you tie it off at when next to or behind the boat and I'm just north of sunny Sydney Australia, 2 weeks of wet cold crap weather :(
A cleat
Hell yeah. Wonderful idea, thabks for sharing
Thanks Jim
How's the dinghy painter holding up?
Great
Ok Clark this is the first video of yours I can’t agree on. Well not all the video, but specifically the part you mentioned Dyneema as rigging and the reason you wouldn’t use it for rigging is knives exist. Well first off by that reasoning you shouldn’t use wire rope for rigging becuase bolt cutters exist. When I replaced my bobstay with Dyneema (with a Chaff sleeve) I cut the 1/4 inch 19/1 wire with a pair of vise grips with a cutter on them. It took two seconds. On the flip side it takes a really sharp knife to cut Dyneema line and yes you can cut it but I can cut wire rigging also. Large sailing ships used Hemp rope for standing rigging for centuries and ya you can cut it with a knife. Also battery operated saws all’s with a hacksaw blade will cut stainless steel faster then you can say stolen catalytic converter. It would work just as well on wire rigging.
And should I be a nefarious Type with a beef I wouldn’t want to cut all the way through your wire rigging no then it might fail while I’m still around to be caught. I would only damage the wire by cutting only a few strands near a fitting and let it fail on you over time when you are out to sea loading the rigging. So you may not want synthetic rigging for many reasons like its properties vs wire but because it could be cut with a knife is the weakest of arguments against it. You may prefer wire rigging and that’s fine Dyneema is not for everyone or all boats. But the last consideration I thought of was someone who hates me would cut my standing rigging. There are already many things a would be vandal could do like cut your Halyards or furling lines. Even if you have wire rigging.
(And my 29ft boat the wire rigging could be cut just as fast with some good wire cutters, as a knife on Dyneema.
As for Dyneema as a dingy painter someone could also cut your dingy free as well. Then Dyneema floats without the ploy line inside and Dyneema is low stretch line that’s why it’s used in rigging that is once you get the constructional stretch out. When. You opened the braid and feed the poly line inside you created a lot of constructional stretch potential as until the braid is pulled tight again your hybrid line you created will have stretch. Or shock absorbing potential because you opened the braid of the Dyneema.
As for knots in Dyneema well actually it is slippery there are knots that will hold better in Dyneema but others will pull out when under load. A eye splice is far better with Dyneema than a knot. And an eye splice done correctly in Dyneema keeps most of the strength a knit will weaken the line to 40% of its strength . ( which as a dingy painter that is irrelevant as the size line your using is way stronger then any load it will ever get during that use.) I use Dyneema for many uses on my boat and a dingy painter is not one of those uses. us.binnacle.com/images/productimages/46082A-MED.jpg this is the line I use.
Hi Michael
Thanks for watching.
Yep, new dyneema is slick. Mine is good with knots at its age. I missed this and put it in the description.
We are all captains of our own boats. And are free to rig our boats any way we like. I was just expressing an issue with fiber that I've found many haven't considered.
I carry a knife, I don't tend to carry a battery saws-all. I think that goes for many people out there.
A regular old hacksaw is a 1,000 year old technology, granted people don't typically carry them around.
Golly gee Walley!!
Neat idea but the dyneema is still going to be slippery and will be more likely to untie itself if it is used as a jacket material over polypropylene. I'm dubious about the shock absorption of this hybrid compared to nylon or poly.
New England Ropes already makes a hybrid dinghy painter rope that is polypropylene in the core and a nylon jacketed outer layer to protect the polypropylene inner core. It's not that expensive for the 7/16" size Even worstmarine sells it for $1.69/foot but I've seen it much closer to a buck a foot at discount places like Hamilton.
We get about 5 years out of this line before we stop trusting it for towing use and it gets relegated as the aft line on the dinghy because we always side tie since we have nowhere to get off at the transom of the mothership.
We also never ever trust just ONE line to secure the dinghy. Even when we are towing we run the aft line forward and just a tad looser just in case -belt and suspenders style. Lines can sometimes become untied or the cleat hitch can fail.
The only time we use just the painter is at a dinghy dock and because we have such a long painter we usually run through the cleat and then back to the dinghy so there is effectively two lines there anyhow. We've had people untie our dinghy at dinghy docks and then not tie a proper knot again and we have found our painter loose one turn around a pole and once even in the water and only the press of other boats keeping it from drifting away in the current so we have begun to also use a cable lock in many places in the US where we never did in years past because a press of newbie cruisers have never learned proper dinghy dock etiquette.
Don't mess with other people's lines folks and if you absolutely have no choice then make DARN sure you tie a proper knot... it happened three times in as many week last fall going south at different marinas in Florida. This NEVER happened in years past.
I am surprised you find dyneema holds knots well. The UHMWPE line I have used does not as it is so slippery.
Mine holds knots well but I now think that's because it's 5 years old
You never said what size was each rope.
I think there are links in the description.
1/4 dyneema and 3/16 poly. I might use 1/4 and 1/4 if I did it again
That’s what I figured. How did you terminate the ends?
🧿👍
😃👍👏👏👏
It doesn’t float !!!
Mine still does.
Mine did for 45 sec hen started to sink.
How can that be I used the same stuff you did - ordered it from your Amazon link.@@Clarks-Adventure
Very similar concept to kernmantle ropes used in climbing - a composite to maximize the benefits of multiple materials. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kernmantle_rope