Complete Guide To Changing Your BMW R1200RT Oil
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- I made this video to encourage "newbie" mechanics to start doing some of their own maintenance. Oil changes are a great place to start because they are simple and yet a basic maintenance function everybody needs to do. Here are the video markers:
0:06 Intro
0:40 Checking oil level
2:25 Tools and parts you'll need
2:56 Oil types, viscosity and synthetic versus conventional
7:26 Oil filters
10:29 Locating the filter and drain plug
12:00 Demonstration of actual oil change
24:35 How to reset the oil service indicator
Thanks for the great video. I learnt something new and that is to fill the filter with oil prior to putting it back. I need to replace the transmission fluid and finally drive fluid now. Thanks much.
I have videos on the transmission and final drive change as well.
I’m not new to bike maintenance but just bought my first BMW the R1200RT so just like do a review for the minor differences doing an oil change on Japanese bike, basically just a couple of different tool but this was a very clear and precise how to video for people who are reluctant to start doing their own servicing.
Cheers.
1st of many videos I will watch on your channel for all things related on Beamers. Thank you....
New R1200RT owner here (2006 in Dark Graphite) - thank you for all of this info! Super helpful! The synthetic info is spot on - with one small caveat. The only time to NOT use synthetic is during run-in on a new or freshly rebuilt engine. The long-chain molecules (the little doo-dads that give the synthetic oil its spectacular long-life properties and excellent lubricity) do a poor job of suspending metal particulates. Use dinosaur juice or, ideally, break-in oil for that first 500-600 miles. Beyond that, synthetic is the way go! Getting ready to do my first oil change as soon as my funky little fill cap tool arrives from Max BMW. Mahle is actually an OEM supplier to BMW, the one you get at the dealer in a BMW box with BMW logo on the filter was most likely made by Mahle, Mann is another brand that supplies BMW. Looking forward to putting your wisdom and experience to good use. Long live the hex-head!
I'd push back on that assertion! Break-in oil is a relic of the past and is no longer used in new vehicles. Back in the day break-in oil with no friction modifiers was used to encourage the piston rings to wear into the cylinders for a good seal. Today manufacturing and design improvements have made that unnecessary and many manufacturers actually ship cars and bikes with high performance synthetic oil. At least some run-in/break-in is done at the factory. It's still wise to change the oil early, I believe, since the cost is minimal and initial run-in can still cause metal in the oil, but even that isn't always required by the manufacturer. Motorcycles still seem to adhere to the 500-600 rule for initial oil change, but lots of car manufacturers have you go the full standard mileage between changes.
I believe Mahle is the supplier for BMW OEM oil filters
You are indeed correct.😊
FYI, Mahle makes the oil filters for BMW.
Thanks for the tutorial.
Good Job... I M French... But your English was understanding...very well.. thanks
Merci! Je suis content que vous l'ayez trouvé utile.
Good video! I go by the manual and use a torque wrench on everything.
Brilliant video, shows how easy it is to do basic servicing on our mighty steeds. Only thing I'd suggest is wearing nitrile gloves, they're cheap and make your life a lot more pleasant when dealing with oil.
I just bought a 2009 R1200rt, thank you for this great video!
Nice thorough tutorial. I’d recommend removing the oil fill plug & covering with a clean rag. Also, use a new crush washer every time. They are extremely inexpensive (10 for $5 online) compared to an engine overhaul if leaks happen.
It is best to use a new crush washer, although I'd be the first to admit I've reused when I've had nothing readily available. Sounds like you found quite the bargain, though!
thank you! by far the best instruction on an oil change!
Glad it helped!
Good source video. However, since the stated audience for this video are "newbies", I think it's important to emphasize two items.
First, always replace the aluminum crush washer, not because they are inexpensive but as the name implies they are designed to crush (deform) when the drain bolt is tightened to the specified torque. This deformation serves to help seal the bolt to engine interface and ensure an oil tight connection. You cannot attain the same seal when using a previously use crush washer as old washers have already been deformed once on first use and will not further deform at the specified torque.
Second, always use a torque wrench for this and other bolted connections. When connections with a new crush washer approach the specified torque, you can actually feel a slight additional movement of the bolt as the washer deforms. Any other method, including a "calibrated wrist", is only a guess. On each use, I confirm the calibration of my click-style 3/8" torque wrench by using a 11 mm, 12 point socket to connect the click-style wrench to a 3/8" beam-style torque wrench. This way I can confirm the click-style wrench is releasing when the beam-style wrench indicates the desired torque. Torque wrenches are inexpensive, certainly much less than a 911 diagnostic tool.
this is great, thank you , im gonna do this on my 2011 BMW R1200RT
It maybe worthwhile showing or explaining how a copper crush washer in a good condition can be annealed (softened) by heating to approximately a dull red temperature with a blowtorch and reused. Just a thought.😊
I can't say I've ever tried that! I think most riders buy the washers in bulk form, which are pretty cheap.
@@tinderboxarts It's not a case of being cheap it's having one the correct size to hand that catches folk out.
John,
You made my life alot easier love this video and very detailed and easy to follow...I am now a subscriber...Awesome explanation 👏
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much for great job! Waiting for tutorial of Brake Fluid change by conventional method, I have no vacuum machine ,my horse is R1200R of 2014, with same engine, it’s time to overhaul!
I actually made that video, but for a different bike! It does show the procedure with an inexpensive vacuum pump starting at 10:00
th-cam.com/video/EW4nWVpVNlU/w-d-xo.html However, you can accomplish the same bleeding without a pump. Buy a length of clear vinyl hose at your local hardware store or home center with an inside diameter that just squeezes onto the bleeder screw. Put your box wrench over the bleeder screw first, then push on the clear hose over the end of the screw. Now put the other end into a container. Squeeze the brake lever and open up the bleeder screw. Close the screw and get another squeeze. Repeat. The hose will allow you to see any air bubbles and it will prevent air from sneaking back in. Keep filling the reservoir as you pump the brakes and when the fluid in the hose runs clear you are done. Next time I bleed the RT brakes I'll make a video.
Thanks a lot! Keep moving this awesome bike! I love this engine and going to keep it together with my ‘84th JAWA350-638-5, kind of real metal bikes!
I will do it myself!!!
Thnx, helpt a lot! Greetings from The Netherlands.
I enjoyed your video. You communicate the information very well. Thanks and take care.
Thanks for showing the GS 911. I own a 2015 R1200 RT which I bought several months ago. Looks like I'm going to have to get the GS 911. I think they are over $300 US for the "consumer" model and around double that for the " pro" model. Not looking forward to buying it.
There is another option, which is the Motoscan phone app with an appropriate cable. I haven't used that, but it will do the basics.
@@tinderboxarts thanks, I'll check it out. I hope that is a solution that works . Keep the vids coming ...
great video, THANKS
VERY helpful information, many thanks. Regards.
Awesome video, thank you so much for making it 👌
Thank you so much. This my first bike. Great video.
For all practical considerations, a US quart (not imperial) is pretty much the same amount as 1 litre - 946.3ml
MotoScan for Android works a treat on my F bike for re-setting the service light. I assume that it works on boxers as well.
Yes, you have two choices that I know about, the Motoscan app on your phone with a cable or the GS-911 dedicated scan tool. The GS-911 is more expensive, but it also gets deeper into the weeds for diagnostics, live data, etc.
Great job! Thanks for this.
By watching your videos I have learned a lot about my RT. Wanted to ask you that do you warm your engine before oil change?
It's true, with a warm engine you'll have a better chance of getting more oil drained out because it flows more easily. However, I really don't think it's that critical. You can leave the plug off a cold engine a little longer and let the oil drain, and of course the oil in the filter will come out when you change the filter. Warm or cold, the vast majority of oil will be replaced, and that's what is important. So my advice is not to worry about it.
Hello, yes you are correct in saying that here in the UK "conventional" engine oil is generally referred to as "mineral" oil. May I ask why you say it's incorrect to use this terminology? Regards
I think the confusion arises between the two countries. In the US, mineral oils are products used for countertop maintenance, digestion aids, and beauty products. Obviously in the UK if you use the term you'll be fine, since your compatriots use it commonly for describing conventional motor oils.
You are the best. Thank you very much!
Glad it helped.
YOU. ARE. THE. COOOOOLEST!!! Thank you so much for this!
Great video friend....New York!
Great information and video....thank you
Nice video. Easy do you have a video on how to see what is causing a break light error on display?
You need a scanner like this one: th-cam.com/video/rsipwJpov38/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the wonderful tutorial. Aren't you supposed to re-tighten the drain plug and filter to specific NM settings with a torque wrench? I tighten many things by "feel", but stripping off that plug would be expensive.
If you are uncomfortable doing it by "feel" then a torque wrench can't hurt. I've been a mechanic for over three decades so I don't think twice about it.
Don't misunderstand me--I didn't say it wasn't critical or that you can't bugger up the threads if you go ape on the nut. I'm just saying that it's possible to get a feel for proper tightness with experience. Professional mechanics pull out the torque wrench for engine builds, not for drain plugs. But a DIY weekender with less experience may be more comfortable with a torque wrench. Having said that, it's also important to understand that torque wrenches are not infallible. The wrench itself, no matter the cost, can and will go out of spec. Improper technique with the wrench, such as pulling too hard or too fast, or grabbing the handle incorrectly will greatly affect readings. And torque values vary widely depending on circumstances, such as oil or loctite on the threads of whatever you are tightening or ambient temperatures. Depending on a torque wrench to give you accuracy will eventually come back and bite you. It's best to learn over time what feels right, and use a torque wrench when necessary to confirm your work. That way you won't be fooled when your torque wrench inevitably gives you a bad reading. I also still prefer the old-school deflection style torque wrenches over clicker, dial indicator or digital types. They force you to use good technique and you can watch the scale while you get a feel for tightness.
Just wanted to thank you for a great video idea on the subject of torque wrenches. Take a look if you get a chance: th-cam.com/video/m6UdzsvFdx4/w-d-xo.html
FOr the life of me I could not get the oil plug out. Is there a reason for this or am I going for the wrong one?
I showed the plug at the 11:29 mark in the video, and it is a T-50 torx head. If you have the right one, then it is possible the last guy over-tightened it. Instead of applying stead pressure, you can try a different method. Get the torx bit firmly placed into the plug head and apply some preload pressure on the socket wrench handle. Now take a rubber mallet or similar hammer in the other hand and give a good whack to the end of the socket wrench handle. Just be careful to keep the torx bit centered and straight in the plug head as you do this. By giving this sudden torque to the socket wrench with the hammer you should be able to crack the plug loose. Another possible help would be to heat up the surrounding metal of the oil pan before you attempt to loosen the plug.
Great video! Just one question, I thought we don’t have to use motorcycle specific oil since the bmw’s have separate transmissions.
Yes, the older RTs have a dry clutch and you could use an automotive oil of the right grade if you wish. The newer RTs (2014 and up if memory serves) have a wet clutch and do require a motorcycle specific oil.
I have 5 qrtz of oil. Do I use 4 qtz and a half?
It can vary slightly depending on how much is left behind and the size of your filter. If you have a similar model year as in the video, you can probably do 4.5 quarts and then start it up for a minute before shutting it down and checking for level in the sight glass. You are supposed to check it with the engine at operating temperature, so if it is cold and the sight glass is a little below the halfway mark you might be fine.
Hi so you used 4 quarts of oil, which is 3.8 liters, and that's enough I guess or even more than you need. I'm asking because the manual states that you need 4 liters when changing the oil filter as well. Actually the manual says 4 liters max, which is a bit ambiguous.
It depends on how much is left behind when you drain the old oil. If you let it sit there until nothing comes out you'll use a little more, if you put the plug back in when it's just a trickle left you'll need a little less. Also, some of the filters are a slightly different size so that could be more or less oil. If you are uncertain, just sneak up on it by getting close, starting the engine for a few minutes, and then letting it settle back down. The sight glass will show if you need to add a little more at that point.
dealer told me service light is on a time ,so every year if you don't ride 6,000 miles service lights up bmw want the change the oil every year even though oil is good for 6,000 miles, is the oil bad after a year? the dealer want 60.00 labor and 24.00 to turn the service need light off , that's a rip off if ya ask me ,that's 84.00 to do a oil change not including oil and filter
Mileage is only one factor in oil life. When a bike is ridden less than the 6000 mile recommended change, other factors come into play. Water vapor condenses inside the engine case when it cools. Unburned fuel and carbon gets past the rings and valve seals and into the engine. These things can have a corrosive effect on the metal parts internally. Especially if you are leaving a bike to sit for a winter season, changing the oil prevents this corrosion from taking place. This is not a BMW thing, by the way, but industry practice. So, they are not trying to "get" you. That said, it's much cheaper to do the oil change yourself!
2011 r1200rt is it the same oil change??
Yes, the 2011 model is identical to what you see in the video.
Nice video, where you in the Navy?
I was! What was the giveaway?
@@tinderboxarts making things "sailor proof "
Ah, yes! Of course, there isn't really such a thing--sailors will always find a way to screw it up!
How many miles do I change the oil?
6000 is the recommended interval.
Do you fill both sides of the bike with engine oil or just one side with the correct amount
No, there's just one fill hole. Add something close to the correct amount and then use the sight glass for a precise measurement of the rest.
@@tinderboxarts thanks, I own a 2018 GSA
What wrench do i use??
If you have the standard BMW or Mahle filter on your bike it is probably a 76mm x 12 flute design.
Trying to buy a service kit is proving frustrating for the water cooled models. The kit officially sold by BMW is a ridiculous price, and that's without oil. When buying from ebay it's half the price, but the washers / plugs look different. The official ones show two metal ones, the ebay shows one metal and two o-rings. I'm confused.
Probably you should abandon the kit idea and just buy the parts individually. You can purchase a bulk pack of crush washers on Amazon or similar places, and the filters are readily available. The oil and possibly the filter you can probably pick up at your local auto parts store. I mean, I get Mobil 1 motorcycle oil at Walmart!
@@tinderboxarts Thanks for the advice, but how do I know what size or spec crush washer I need? They come in copper, stainless etc. And what about O rings? Are they both for the shaft drive or is one for the engine oil filler cap?
Thanks for the help - Only just bought the bike and am struggling to get hold of a workshop manual.
The O-rings you may be referring to are needed for the final drive maintenance. You might try beemerboneyard.com for some of all of these little parts.
@@tinderboxarts I'm thinking the ebay kits might be throwing in the odd extra o rings because it is a kit sold for more than one BMW. I'd like to buy everything separate and just know the size of the crusher washers to order. Sorry, that site isn't any use as I'm in the UK. Thanks anyway
I didn't realize you were UK based. I bought a bulk pack of crush washers on Amazon last time. See if this link works for you:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQDXPMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The GS911 software was using KM for units. Does it use Miles if the RT dash is displaying Miles?
I can't remember now for sure, but I think there is an option to display either standard. You can definitely change it on the dash through the GS911.
Your video contains 2 factual errors: 1) You emphasized there was only one difference between dino oil and synthetic oil, and that is, synthetic oil holds its viscosity better. This is true. But there is a second SERIOUS difference: Synthetic oil CHEMICALLY BONDS with the metal parts and provides far better lubrication on (dry) startups. Dino oil does not. As much as 86% of engine wear is at startup, while the oil is in the bottom of the crankcase and the cylinders are "dry". 2) You also mentioned that you could use automotive oil. TRUE. But your template (words on the screen) says that motorcycle oil contains friction modifiers. The exact opposite is true. Motorcycle oil SPECIFICALLY EXCLUDES friction modifiers, as they can cause a wet clutch to slip or not work properly. Friction modifiers are only contained in automotive oils. SOURCE: Amsoil University.
You're partially right and partially wrong. On your first point about chemical bonding you are conflating marketing material about a specific brand(s) with synthetic oil in general. Some brands make a claim about this chemical bonding business, but they are referring to ADDITIVES in their mix not the base oil itself. In other words, synthetic oil itself isn't responsible for this supposed effect, but additives, specifically phosphorus. And, it doesn't chemically bond with the metal, which doesn't even make sense. Instead, it simply bonds with the metal to create a sacrificial layer of protection. Here's how the Valvoline company puts it in their FAQ: "Valvoline's proprietary formulation includes special anti-wear chemistry. Valvoline's low impact ZDDP allows phosphorus in the anti-wear additive to stay in the oil longer than other leading synthetic motor oils. Phosphorous bonds to metal parts in the engine to form a "sacrificial" layer that helps protect against friction and metal wear in the engine." So, if you buy the marketing, some companies sell synthetic oil with additives that bond with metal to provide additional anti-wear capability. Not all synthetic oil has the same additives, and I would wager the effect of this so-called bonding is minimal. More important is keeping the oil clean and in it's original viscosity range.
Your second point about friction modifiers is correct--the on screen words should have said "without" at 6:37. Regretfully, youtube doesn't allow me to change that now. However, this point isn't strictly universal. Some motorcycle oils do have small amounts of friction modifiers according to what I've researched. Most, or at least many, do not. This does get confusing, too, because in the automotive world friction modifiers are often added when clutches are present. The difference between Dexron and Ford transmission fluid is mostly friction modifiers and automatic transmissions use clutch packs very similar to motorcycles. Limited slip differentials are another example. Anyway, the average user doesn't need to worry about any of this because if they pick the correct viscosity and API classification on the label, they'll be fine.