Very well done Sir... you, in my opinion, have just the right amount of discussion during your demonstration, sharing all the small things that one might not normally pay attention to...well done!!
Great video and you have now made the job easier for me. Why ! Because having done this job previously someone told me that you needed to remove the speedo drive and use that hole to refill the oil. I did that and discovered on my first ride out after 50 miles from home I had split the small rubber ring and found my rear wheel covered in oil. Now thankfully with your advice this will never happen again. I also re-greased the final drive joint and I have got to say I found getting them remeshed was more awkward than you experienced. Thanks again.
Important tip: after you lubricate the splines and are ready to close everything up, put white lithium grease around the boot edges, push the boot into place on the rear wheel side of the boot, then loop a strong piece of string under the drive shaft right behind the pivot (the engine side). Have a person lift the drive shaft up about 1/2 inch by holding the string as you lift the final drive/brake rotor up. This will help align the female and male splines. Once they slide into each other, remove the string, install the final drive support bolt and nut, then use your finger to push the engine side of the boot into place. If you don't lift the drive shaft you will have a very difficult time getting the splines to slide into each other.
Interesting tip, thanks. I really didn't have much issue getting the driveshaft aligned during assembly other than determining if it was better to have the transmission in gear or not. Sometimes you get lucky.
Great video's! I just purchased a 2011 last fall and will be doing the 24k mile maintenance myself. This bike seems to be easy to work on so far. Thank you!
Yeah, they really aren't too bad. Their size and tupperware seems intimidating at first, but once you start breaking it down the actual maintenance isn't difficult.
As another reviewer person mentioned, with those rear crash bars, simply replace the OE muffler hanger bolt with a hex headed bolt and you never have to loosen the crash bars again.
John, if you replace your rear muffler mount torx bolt with a hex bolt, you will be able to remove your muffler with out needing to move your rear saddle bag guard. You will be able to remove the bolt with an open end wrench along with the clamp at the front of the muffler and drop it down or remove it all together. Then remove your rear wheel.
I did that to my bike the first time that I removed the rear wheel. It’s one of those things that the manufacturers of the crash bars should recommend.
Good vlog but don't forget there are splines at the gearbox end too - These "can" be done without removing the swingarm but oh boy are those splines a bitch to get back together!! I find it easier to undo the swingarm, done it a few times now as mine has done 70,000 miles! The final drive I measure out the amount required for refill and when the wife is not around I heat it to about 70degC in the oven and then pour it in via the hole for the ABS sensor - bigger than the filler hole (no new washer required here) and pours in nice and easy via a funnel and tube, so long as you don't try to go too fast! Much easier than a syringe or squeezy bottle. Happy days!
Yes, I actually intend to do those splines on the next annual. I think the splines closer to the wheel have more potential for rust and corrosion because of the rubber boot, but both sides need lubricating.
In 2023 this bike still has appeal. 80mm narrower than the current model and lighter but with all the riding tech (apart from the widescreen tv). They are a bargain now but what about that clutch? Is 80,000km too much for a dry clutch?
The dry clutch is not to be feared, they work well even if they are difficult to replace. The amount of kilometers or miles you get from the clutch will be highly dependent on how the bike is used. If the bike spends a lot of time on the highway, for example, then the clutch is hardly used and you can expect a very long life from the clutch. On the other extreme, if the bike is used in police training and riding exhibitions or if it is used in lots of local stop-and-go traffic, then the clutch is going to take a beating.
By the way you are supposed to use "NBU 30 PTM" grease on the rubber boot. It's crazy expensive, and I don't know what is so special about it. I think I will try lots of silicone grease myself and see it that's okay
Many use a standard lithium grease, or a silicone grease would probably be fine too. Just clean off the old grease so there are no compatibility issues.
Nice video! AFAIK, on the camheads, you no longer need to drop the FD and re-lube the splines. You had to on the older models because of the drain plug being horizontal, but now with the proper drain plug and fill plug, the official FD service (according to BMW) is to just drain and refill the oil. I've done this for the last 98,000 miles on my 2013 R1200RT with zero problems. I recently had to take the drive shaft and swingarm off (to replace a seal) and found all the splines, FD parts, and drive shaft to look like they are brand new. New design = less maintenance. If you do choose to drop the FD anyways, really make sure you get the boot sealed (I use marine grease) since in my experience most driveshafts on BMWs are killed from moisture getting in and causing rust.
I've also heard that BMW doesn't require the spline lube anymore, but for me the effort is worth it. My 2012 had very little lube from the factory and the rear does have some movement. I'd rather have the protection, especially if water does find it's way in there.
@@tinderboxarts It doesn’t take “manhandling”, to happen. Remember the rear of the bike is much lighter since the back wheel and driveshaft is removed. It’s such a simple thing to do to avoid an ugly situation. BMW factory mechanic Chris Harris includes this very instruction as part of this procedure. Look it up.
As I said, you can do this if you like, but I don't think it's necessary for final drive maintenance. Everybody has their own comfort level, of course.
Great video, need to replace my gear oil and this will sure help. Didn’t know it was this involved. Not like some other bikes I’ve owned. Do you have any videos on the valve adjustment for this year? I have the exact bike. Thanks, GM
Don't overthink it. Any grease compatible with rubber is fine. White lithium is fine, a waterproof marine grease is fine. It's just to keep water splashes from entering.
You could probably drain the final drive fluid without removing the wheel, though it makes life easier with it out of the way and you don't risk getting oil on the tire.
I think I was complaining that they had both an allen head plug and a torx plug on the final drive, which is potentially confusing or easily missed since you can't see the bottom plug very well. But, it's true I am not a fan of torx heads on cars and bikes. They work fine when new in the factory, but as the head becomes worn with use, or rusted, or caked with filth, they become easier to strip out. I think I'm also emotionally scarred from the use of torx heads in my old Jeep, since that vehicle probably came off the assembly line with rust and the torx heads are always trouble.
That actually makes me chuckle, because mechanics often curse that torx screws could only be preferred by an engineer! I use torx construction screws in my remodeling work, and they are often a better choice than phillips or square head screws. However, for cars, trucks and bikes they are an abomination. They strip out when used in applications where corrosion tends to seize the bolt or in high torque applications. They tend to fill up with road grime and oil, preventing the mechanic from determining the correct size. They are not tolerant of off-angle access when reach is a problem. And when made with stainless steel, they are soft and tend to strip out over repeated use.
@@tinderboxarts Thanks for this! Found the exact one on Amazon. Not sure why the book doesn't tell you this. It tells you the gear ratios and detailed info like that, but not what damned oil to put in. I'm guessing it's the same oil for a 2014 model?
@@tinderboxarts Thanks man. Going to tackle this first opportunity of good weather. Looks like the grease is missing from the boot and judging by the rest of the bike, it looks like it fell in a swamp at one point. I just looked at the clutch fluid today and it was over filled and murky. I think I should do a complete service. Unfortunately I can't seem to get a workshop manual for the K52.
What kind of hideous design is it, you need to remove the tyre, muffler to get access to the fill plug. German engineering are mend to make life complicated. At least on the R1200GS the fill plug is outside and easier for a oil change job.
Two screws to remove the muffler, 5 for the wheel (without needing to remove brake calipers or anything else), a drain and a fill plug. Not really that bad. How much stuff do you have to remove and replace to change the chain and sprockets on a chain driven bike? How much does that cost vs about $8 worth of gear oil? When you think about it, the boxer FD is a genius design for high-mile riders.
I'd like to point out that all of my Honda shaft drive bikes had a drain plug at the bottom of the housing, and a fill plug at the top. Changing the rear drive fluid is a 5-minute affair. You BMW owners should really be angry at how difficult BMW makes this process for you and demand that they re-do the design.
It's true, some minor design changes would make a big difference. Another item that drives me nuts is the lack of a grease fitting on the driveshaft. With a grease fitting the U-joints would last the life of the bike.
Why BMW did not made completely closed drive shaft as Honda did is a riddle to me...those rubber boots are complete trash as a solution to make that whole shaft.
The boots do seem to cause a lot of headaches. I'm careful to grease up the edges around the boot to assist with a seal, and it does seem to make a difference.
Very well done Sir... you, in my opinion, have just the right amount of discussion during your demonstration, sharing all the small things that one might not normally pay attention to...well done!!
Great video and you have now made the job easier for me. Why ! Because having done this job previously someone told me that you needed to remove the speedo drive and use that hole to refill the oil. I did that and discovered on my first ride out after 50 miles from home I had split the small rubber ring and found my rear wheel covered in oil. Now thankfully with your advice this will never happen again.
I also re-greased the final drive joint and I have got to say I found getting them remeshed was more awkward than you experienced. Thanks again.
Ouch! Live and learn.
I’ve been scared to do my own 2012 RT but armed with your vid, I feel a lot more confident, thanks.
Important tip: after you lubricate the splines and are ready to close everything up, put white lithium grease around the boot edges, push the boot into place on the rear wheel side of the boot, then loop a strong piece of string under the drive shaft right behind the pivot (the engine side). Have a person lift the drive shaft up about 1/2 inch by holding the string as you lift the final drive/brake rotor up. This will help align the female and male splines. Once they slide into each other, remove the string, install the final drive support bolt and nut, then use your finger to push the engine side of the boot into place. If you don't lift the drive shaft you will have a very difficult time getting the splines to slide into each other.
Interesting tip, thanks. I really didn't have much issue getting the driveshaft aligned during assembly other than determining if it was better to have the transmission in gear or not. Sometimes you get lucky.
Great video's! I just purchased a 2011 last fall and will be doing the 24k mile maintenance myself. This bike seems to be easy to work on so far. Thank you!
Yeah, they really aren't too bad. Their size and tupperware seems intimidating at first, but once you start breaking it down the actual maintenance isn't difficult.
As another reviewer person mentioned, with those rear crash bars, simply replace the OE muffler hanger bolt with a hex headed bolt and you never have to loosen the crash bars again.
John, if you replace your rear muffler mount torx bolt with a hex bolt, you will be able to remove your muffler with out needing to move your rear saddle bag guard. You will be able to remove the bolt with an open end wrench along with the clamp at the front of the muffler and drop it down or remove it all together. Then remove your rear wheel.
Good tip!
I did that to my bike the first time that I removed the rear wheel. It’s one of those things that the manufacturers of the crash bars should recommend.
Very helpful video, congrats on the BMW. I just purchased an 08 and will be doing this in the next month, really appreciate the info shared.
Thanks helped me a lot stay safe.
Good vlog but don't forget there are splines at the gearbox end too - These "can" be done without removing the swingarm but oh boy are those splines a bitch to get back together!! I find it easier to undo the swingarm, done it a few times now as mine has done 70,000 miles!
The final drive I measure out the amount required for refill and when the wife is not around I heat it to about 70degC in the oven and then pour it in via the hole for the ABS sensor - bigger than the filler hole (no new washer required here) and pours in nice and easy via a funnel and tube, so long as you don't try to go too fast! Much easier than a syringe or squeezy bottle. Happy days!
Yes, I actually intend to do those splines on the next annual. I think the splines closer to the wheel have more potential for rust and corrosion because of the rubber boot, but both sides need lubricating.
In 2023 this bike still has appeal. 80mm narrower than the current model and lighter but with all the riding tech (apart from the widescreen tv). They are a bargain now but what about that clutch? Is 80,000km too much for a dry clutch?
The dry clutch is not to be feared, they work well even if they are difficult to replace. The amount of kilometers or miles you get from the clutch will be highly dependent on how the bike is used. If the bike spends a lot of time on the highway, for example, then the clutch is hardly used and you can expect a very long life from the clutch. On the other extreme, if the bike is used in police training and riding exhibitions or if it is used in lots of local stop-and-go traffic, then the clutch is going to take a beating.
Nice video, happy to tackle this job myself now....
I agree, your easy explanation is really confidence inspiring and the little tips regarding filling stuff will be helpful, thanks :^)
By the way you are supposed to use "NBU 30 PTM" grease on the rubber boot. It's crazy expensive, and I don't know what is so special about it. I think I will try lots of silicone grease myself and see it that's okay
Many use a standard lithium grease, or a silicone grease would probably be fine too. Just clean off the old grease so there are no compatibility issues.
Real world spannering from a common sense man...Nice....
Nice video! AFAIK, on the camheads, you no longer need to drop the FD and re-lube the splines. You had to on the older models because of the drain plug being horizontal, but now with the proper drain plug and fill plug, the official FD service (according to BMW) is to just drain and refill the oil. I've done this for the last 98,000 miles on my 2013 R1200RT with zero problems. I recently had to take the drive shaft and swingarm off (to replace a seal) and found all the splines, FD parts, and drive shaft to look like they are brand new. New design = less maintenance. If you do choose to drop the FD anyways, really make sure you get the boot sealed (I use marine grease) since in my experience most driveshafts on BMWs are killed from moisture getting in and causing rust.
I've also heard that BMW doesn't require the spline lube anymore, but for me the effort is worth it. My 2012 had very little lube from the factory and the rear does have some movement. I'd rather have the protection, especially if water does find it's way in there.
Important: run a ratchet strap around the center stand up through the front wheel to make certain the bike won’t come off the stand.
Yes, if you care concerned about the bike being jostled around you can do that. If you don't need to manhandle the bike it may not be necessary.
@@tinderboxarts It doesn’t take “manhandling”, to happen. Remember the rear of the bike is much lighter since the back wheel and driveshaft is removed. It’s such a simple thing to do to avoid an ugly situation. BMW factory mechanic Chris Harris includes this very instruction as part of this procedure. Look it up.
As I said, you can do this if you like, but I don't think it's necessary for final drive maintenance. Everybody has their own comfort level, of course.
Great video, need to replace my gear oil and this will sure help. Didn’t know it was this involved. Not like some other bikes I’ve owned.
Do you have any videos on the valve adjustment for this year? I have the exact bike.
Thanks, GM
I do! There are two valve adjustment videos, but this is the latest one: th-cam.com/video/vZcLf8pRAeY/w-d-xo.html
@@tinderboxarts thank you.
Very good instructions thank you
What product are you using to seal the boot? Read people calling for NLGI3 grade, but couldnt find it anywhere. thanks
Don't overthink it. Any grease compatible with rubber is fine. White lithium is fine, a waterproof marine grease is fine. It's just to keep water splashes from entering.
Great video. Thank you very much for sharing. Is really necessary to remove the wheel to access the plug for the filling of the driveshaft?
You could probably drain the final drive fluid without removing the wheel, though it makes life easier with it out of the way and you don't risk getting oil on the tire.
What would you prefer instead of Torx?
I think I was complaining that they had both an allen head plug and a torx plug on the final drive, which is potentially confusing or easily missed since you can't see the bottom plug very well. But, it's true I am not a fan of torx heads on cars and bikes. They work fine when new in the factory, but as the head becomes worn with use, or rusted, or caked with filth, they become easier to strip out. I think I'm also emotionally scarred from the use of torx heads in my old Jeep, since that vehicle probably came off the assembly line with rust and the torx heads are always trouble.
Great video thank you. I have a k1600 and will help me do my.
What about the front spline lubrication?
I've got a video just for you! th-cam.com/video/-ub07EkInVY/w-d-xo.html
Nice job 👍
May I ask.why you absolutely hate torx head set screws - I find this a rather strange opinion since I and my engineering colleagues like them. 😊
That actually makes me chuckle, because mechanics often curse that torx screws could only be preferred by an engineer! I use torx construction screws in my remodeling work, and they are often a better choice than phillips or square head screws. However, for cars, trucks and bikes they are an abomination. They strip out when used in applications where corrosion tends to seize the bolt or in high torque applications. They tend to fill up with road grime and oil, preventing the mechanic from determining the correct size. They are not tolerant of off-angle access when reach is a problem. And when made with stainless steel, they are soft and tend to strip out over repeated use.
Does anyone anywhere know what the hell the oil is that goes in the shaft? I only know it's 180ml. Cannot find this info anywhere. Thanks
See 10:18 of this video.
@@tinderboxarts Thanks for this! Found the exact one on Amazon. Not sure why the book doesn't tell you this. It tells you the gear ratios and detailed info like that, but not what damned oil to put in. I'm guessing it's the same oil for a 2014 model?
Yes, I believe it is the same. The final drive is a pretty simple gearing arrangement. Nothing unusual.
@@tinderboxarts Thanks man. Going to tackle this first opportunity of good weather. Looks like the grease is missing from the boot and judging by the rest of the bike, it looks like it fell in a swamp at one point. I just looked at the clutch fluid today and it was over filled and murky. I think I should do a complete service. Unfortunately I can't seem to get a workshop manual for the K52.
What kind of hideous design is it, you need to remove the tyre, muffler to get access to the fill plug. German engineering are mend to make life complicated. At least on the R1200GS the fill plug is outside and easier for a oil change job.
Two screws to remove the muffler, 5 for the wheel (without needing to remove brake calipers or anything else), a drain and a fill plug. Not really that bad. How much stuff do you have to remove and replace to change the chain and sprockets on a chain driven bike? How much does that cost vs about $8 worth of gear oil? When you think about it, the boxer FD is a genius design for high-mile riders.
I'd like to point out that all of my Honda shaft drive bikes had a drain plug at the bottom of the housing, and a fill plug at the top. Changing the rear drive fluid is a 5-minute affair.
You BMW owners should really be angry at how difficult BMW makes this process for you and demand that they re-do the design.
It's true, some minor design changes would make a big difference. Another item that drives me nuts is the lack of a grease fitting on the driveshaft. With a grease fitting the U-joints would last the life of the bike.
Why BMW did not made completely closed drive shaft as Honda did is a riddle to me...those rubber boots are complete trash as a solution to make that whole shaft.
The boots do seem to cause a lot of headaches. I'm careful to grease up the edges around the boot to assist with a seal, and it does seem to make a difference.
The honda Goldwing also has a dry joint that needs moly between the bevel drive and the drive shaft on all the 1500's
Raise the bike with a 2X6 under the center stand.