I believe I was correct in diagnosing the clogged filter. That black gunk in the bottom of that old pump is definitely implicated in the destruction of the pump/poor performance. I just did my fuel pump a few days ago and the tank was spotless; the inside of that Volvo tank was damned ugly. Wish you had done an autopsy on the old pump.
Love it! Four fuel pumps... No clue! I suspect we're missing some information. Honestly these aren't awful vehicles, you just keep getting sent the bad ones! LOL I let go of my '04 Jaguar last week. It hurt, but it was time. Now rolling about servicing customers out of a 2014 Toyota Rav4! Hello reliability!
I have a hunch. From seeing all the fiddling you had to do to remove the old pump and install the new one, I am going to guess whomever installed the other new pumps didn't do it correctly, something is Bent, blocked, or twisted. 3 new pumps can't all be bad, my gut feeling is installation errors.
Volvos are very picky about fuel pressure and fuel quality, considering how sludged the old fuel pumps were, that new one wont last long unless that tank gets cleaned out. Been through this frustating shit with volvos going back to 940s and 960s
NOT the fault of Volvo. Those tanks are made of plastic. I suspect bad fuel in combination with standing unused for over a year. With regard of the Volvo 900's these DID have fuel system problems but most of the time it was a bad fuel pump relay (bad solder points) In a few case it would be a broken lift pump. The Bosch pressure pump hardly ever failed. I had 1× 780, 3x 940 and wrenched on a few others as well. Good cars.
This is better than watching a Hollywood movie and wasting 2 plus hours of my life! Now this will be my Saturday 2 hour movie night! With popcorn and soda!
Back in the day i had Volvo 144 sedans and 145 wagons. Simple carburetored pushrod valve engines.. about as diametrically opposed to the techno-diablo-volvo you have here. I miss those old beasts. ;)
Thank you for this video. I would question how much actual work was done to this car. What was supposedly done to it and what was actually done to it seems like two different things! Good diag and fix Ivan. On to the Volvo's next problem.
Another way to check the age of those pumps is the manufacturer date stamp. My original Volvo had “07” and the new Bosch one from FCP had “22”. So OE or OEM should have that year stamped on the top.
When the primary pump increasead speed to 11000 RPMs when pressure droped at the same time, was clear evidence of failing pump, because if the fuel lines were restricted from fuel pump to the engine,the pressure at same time would drop and the RPMs of the fuel pump would still be the same or 8000 RPMs would never change. Thanks Ivan 🙂
I hate it when they are not up front with you. He never replaced the pump. He sent you box of parts where is the pumps? They are non returnable. I'm betting the rest of the problems are going to be from all the water..
IVAN, AWESOME thought process and great approach you really nailed it good fix the customer should be happy thanks for sharing waiting for part 3 do not make us waiting long please CHEEEERS FROM CANADA.
on bonus footage, the fuel spike is because it's a turbo, could be the wastegate may not be working properly, intake "boost" pressure going high and fuel pressure spikes to keep pressure ratio right. But it may very well be an anti-lag technique in case you jump right back on the throttle hard. watch the manifold vacuum/pressure when it does it. remember, boost + lean = quickly burnt piston holes and exhaust valves, so the pressure needs to stay correct in relation to manifold vacuum or boost pressure at all times.
Dirt in the fuel tank the first 3 pump strainers cleared out most of it into the strainers. Tank was clear of dirt (still a bit murkey) when the 4th pump was fitted. Suprised/not suprised there was no filter(s) after the pumps. Tank needed draining and flushing out with its internals. Dirt looked like broken up rubber. My 1995 A6 has a strainer on the pump in the tank and a filter in the engine compartment before del' to the rail. There is also a vent from the tank to the inlet manifold EGR which can cause problems.
I had a similar problem in a diesel Mercedes years back. There was a ~20 cm tall cylindrical mesh filter over the fuel intake at the tank, for large debris in fuel. Over time, the bottom part of the filter was clogged, and when the fuel was under 1/4 tank or so, the car would stall out at higher speeds. A vortex would develop inside the filter at the intake, and it would begin sucking air ... a temporary fix was to use a bike pump to force fuel back through the line and push some of the muck off of the filter mesh. Final fix was to drain tank and clean/replace the tank filter.
What an over complicated fuel pumping setup! You made the right call, Ivan. It was indeed the pump! But I find that sludge worrisome - is the tank dirty to a point it fouls the pump? Let's wait for more adventure in Part 3 :-)
The customer's story is obviously BS, where is the new pump he fitted? You can't return them so why wouldn't he include it? I might believe he replaced the pump once with one from a wreckers, and managed to get a bad one from a car with a contaminated tank, but not four times.
@@ferrumignis He might have replaced only the pump, not the entire assembly. It's easier to find a matching pump at the boneyard than an exact match complete assembly, especially when the assembly was a partial year sub-model combination.
So it WAS the fuel pump after all. Maybe the owner didn't even change the pump in the first place or was scammed by a previous mechanic. Add to that this XC90's fuel pump was on the cusp of a crossover. Once again, Ivan has made the right call. The wiper issue should be a breeze by comparison.
I noticed that the old "new" pump zip ties and inner white plastic parts were significantly discolored from age. New OEM? Hmmm. It makes me wonder about the story. That black deposit in the bowl looks suspiciously like the residue from a worn impeller. Some backalley garage has been scamming this boy.
hi Ivan me and Keith tried to fix that in NC we had to let it go to professional, we thought you should get only best , good for videos and diag class for learning, good job cheers
Wow amazing diagnosis, I got 2 volvo fuel pumps to replace these week. Just happened to see these video on my recommendations. I'll verify if those spikes on fuel pressure are normal or not
IVAN, YOUR ARE WELL SUPPORTED WITH FACTORY ALL DATA AND YOUR GOOD COMMAND OF APPLYING VOLTAGE SPECIFIATION READINGS LED TO THE SOURCE OF THE PINCHED WIRE YOUR OVERHEAD COST JUSTIFYING THE COST OF THE DIAGNOSTIC CHARGES FOR EACH MALFUNCTION. IVAN. YOU ARE VERY TECHNICAL AND MOST SUCCESSEFUL. GOOD FOR YOU ON A GREAT JOB.
This poor volvo deserves better owner than this. Totally agree with previous posts, that fuel pump is likely original to the car and likely was never replaced. Volvo pumps are lasting around 200k miles+ if not constantly operated on near empty fuel tank or shot by bad gasoline. Applaud your strategy to be paid for parts and labor after this problem was corrected. Something tells me that wipers will be "no parts required" unless harness was damaged by incorrect instalation(in vid 1 you can see it is moving when wipers are moving).
24:30 I’d say it’s by design. I’d say it’s anticipated fuel demand, and this is a turbo so just to keep fuel flow the same, the pressure has to be raised a psi for every psi of boost just for the same flow at a given pulse width. We faced the same issue on the GNAT back in 87 when trying to increase boost past stock. With an adjustable boost pressure sensitive regulator, but the stock pump wasn’t up to both increased flow at the higher regulated pressure. Thus necessitating higher voltage to the pump (better wiring and or increasing alternator voltage output briefly under boost), then a better pump, then dual better pumps, then dual in-tank pumps feeding a powerful external pump. This to feed both higher pressure and volume to the increasing pound size of the injectors.
On that vehicle dropping the tank is a huge job. The car is not worth that expense. Pumping out the gas and cleaning it by hand through the two openings is far more feasible.
@@joedunn1109 if the car is not worth why the owner wants it fixed? the point is there is probably gunk in the tank and this has potential to be warranty job...
@@joedunn1109 that was my thought, if you wanted to, just pump it out. wouldn't want to waste any more money on that car. But if it were a Cruze or a LaCrosse, sure....;)
@@ognjenjakovljevic494 The car is worth the new fuel pump, but it's not worth the labor cost of dropping the tank. I have replaced the fuel pump on my own XC90 twice (never use an after market fuel pump). Yes, it's important to clean the tank, and I did. I just didn't drop the tank to do it. Dropping the tank requires first removing the rear differential, driveshaft, and exhaust. Since it has independent rear suspension, getting the rear diff out means removing a good number of other parts first. Doing it on jack stands, while possible, is a job no one wants. Though it's not easy to clean the tank in situ, it can be done, and is easier than the alternative.
Originally mistakes were made and tail chasing ensued. When all signs point to a bad component and replacement doesn't fix it then you must, verify proper procedures, verify correct replacement parts, verify that the correct replacement parts actually function properly. I have a feeling that the OEM replacement fuel pump that was tried was the wrong pump which didn't have a transfer pump and the symptoms were very similar because of that. If the part doesn't match 100% then verify that it is a legitimate revised replacement part.
Nice series. I was wondering if one of the lines failed internally and created a flapper that pulls shut and stops fuel flow. I have seen that happening on semis that lost power under heavy loads when old fuel lines failed.
I had a similar problem once. But for a completely different reason. I had a Buick Enclave stall like this because the factory tank had a defect where the tank baffles would break and fuel would slosh to one side.
Hi Ivan, you should drop down the tank to be cleaned before installation of the new pump and the owner should use good quality fuel to prevent that from happening again. I suppose to check the old pump assembly about the primary filter, the inlet section, the hoses and the outlet high pressure regulator valve.... I suppose to make a new episode for that. Thanks. Eng. Amr Medhat
I saw it happen with a few squares of toilet paper. It dissolved into fiber and plugged up the screen. Once it starved out the car died. Then the fibers fell away and it would run again for a while. same symptoms as this one is having.
contrary to what most people think, the best way to endure heat is to wear a baggy cloths that allow air to go in and create ventilation. Just like Tuareg blue men of sahara do 😃
The way the pressure was jerking around, I wonder if there's a pressure regulating valve that was sticking. EDIT: Apparently the regulating valve is built into the fuel pump unit... Makes sense. Valve not moving freely, perhaps fouled or corroded by bad gas?
Wow-that was a tricky one with many potential problems especially with the information from the customer. The methodical diagnosis ultimately proved correct. I'm nervous about the sludge in the old pump which points (potentially) to tank contamination. Hopefully all of the other pumps cleaned the sediment out and there are no more problems. Something else is going on here though with the rest of the electrical system. We could see that the sunroof drains that come off at the A pillar, so we do have water intrusion. Did this car get flooded (freshwater) at another point in its life? Why the CEM? The low mileage and general condition of the vehicle do not seem to match up, which Ivan alluded to in the first video. Great work Ivan!
OEM Volvo is probably a Delphi unit. Those cars come from the factory with a lot of Delphi parts. There were several Volvo models that used the GM 4T65-E transmission and Delphi AC compressors.
@@CatalinaSkybird couldn't remember the models. A buddy of mine worked at a Volvo parts distribution center here in Georgia and told me they were getting shipments of tranny's in from GM. I don't think they held up under the turbo but in GMs I've had great reliability out of them. I've owned 2 grand prix GTPs (97 & 02) and an 07 GXP that had the 4T65E-HD in them the 97 and the 07 each had over 200K on them the 02 was totalled before 100K. I didn't have any problems with them. I do change my ATF and filter every 15K miles, maybe that's why. I had read bad reviews on the GXP regarding transmission failure and I wondered if it would last. Did they use the HD version in the Volvos?
@@topher8634 Volvo put a very soft shifting tune on the transmission and that's what kills them, on the GXP's the issue stems from the Displacement on Demand when the engine goes into 4 cylinder mode it puts too much stress on the torque converter causing to disintegrate and send material through out the trans this is also an issue on the trucks with the cylinder deactivation system. 4T65E get a lot of flack but they're not bad transmission as long as you do the maintenance (fluid and filter every 40k maximum) people will drive on the same fluid and filter until 180k miles and then blame the transmission for braking.
@@topher8634as far as I know, Volvo did use the HD version. Volvo claimed in a press release that they made 70 changes to the transmission (not sure what those are). Had one in a 99 S80 T6. Loved that car except for the transmission. Also had another go in a 3400 powered 2005 Impala. That transmission was much more suited to the Impala.
@@markdonovan4157 I've always changed my fluid and filter every 15K. That's what I was raised as standard. Only vehicle I've ever had an automatic transmission failure in was a Honda Accord it was my GF car she bought new, I changed the fluid on it (there's no replaceable filter for most Hondas) like I did all my vehicles and it failed without warning while we were on vacation in Myrtle Beach at 42K miles. It ended up eating another one before we got rid of it. I had to replace the lifters on my GXP around 150K after one was stuck in the deactivated state and I opted for the AFM delete when I did so. It's a shame they couldn't engineer it to be more reliable. On the highway I was getting 28 MPG. After the delete I was lucky to get 20.
At 21:02, what is the reason why the gauge shows less 14 from the data on the scan tool? How does atmospheric pressure play into it? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Thank you for reminding me why I dont buy European cars!!! My family owned a couple of Peugeot diesels back in the 80's...super comfortable & great handling cars (we had both a 504 & a 505) but things would break that should never break on any car...1 inch thick cooling fan shaft....just snapped one day!!! WHAT??? Yeah thats one example among many others.....now I drive Toyota & Lexus and only do maintainance...
Wow! what a flipping mission Ivan - mind you, I was surprised you didn't whip off the fuel lines and watched the pumps pump into a handy receptacle - or not but I suppose high pressure is rather dodgy to do with no fire extinguisher in sight. I'm more used to diesel and none of my machines self bleed! I'm glad you mentioned something about taxes (DMT) licence plates and insurance - I've said this to Matt over at Diesel Creak and Clint & Co at C&C Equipment - it would be educational for us Brits ( other domains are available) to hear how things are over with you. Our DVLA are a complete Shower of ..... illegitimates! And take every opportunity to screw the motorist and traders - many outfits maintain Trade Plates (godknows how many rules covering their use!) and our insurers take us all to the cleaners - we have to jump through many hoops to get a quote and then often have to prove our No Claims Discount ( which can be dicey!) this despite there being such a thing as the Insurer's Database which let's them know in any case but it's secret and only used to trick folk rather than help them.
Ivan empty out and clean the gas tank out . Sludge will cause issues later . Excellent channel 👍 I had found cars trucks vandalism people put crap in fuel tanks . Before repo man came often spite .
@@brianw8963 I usually can pull fuel out through fuel pump opening quickly. Then wipe inside bottom with clean rags on a flex rod . Gets 99% of all debris .
I can't swear to this one, but the V70 with AWD is sort of a saddle tank setup. It goes over the drive shaft. So, there's a left and right pump for getting fuel from both sides. There's also a cornering issue where if you only pumped from one side and drove on a slope or were on a race track turning in one direction you would empty one side and perhaps suck air. Saab had to change the fuel pickup for one of their endurance runs as they could only use half the tank while cornering. I suspect that the fuel pickup sock might have been plugged and that's why it was starving for fuel. And perhaps some junk floating around in the bottom of the tank. You might wind up cleaning the bottom of the tank if there's some stuff still floating around. You can suck it dry from the top and then swab it out from the top with a length of #14 electric wire and a paper towel as a mop. Use good ones that don't shed fibers....
Good call with the pump, sometimes you have to take the risk of replacing something even with data your side. Surprised you didn't move the fuel module like it stated in the tsb
The problem here is that the Wrong Fuel pump was put in here all those times. They put the newer one in thinking it would be just fine when this system was designed for the older style 2 pump version and not the 3 pump version like revised in later years is what I gather happened here from what you showed.
Definitely need to have a look at that original pump assembly and it would be interesting to see what the inside of the fuel tank looks like. The car has half a tank now but what's getting sucked up when its close to empty? This tank set up reminds me of that Dodge Charger. Why on earth design a tank that straddles the driveshaft hump and needs a transfer pump? And why rely on a Venturi pump instead of just using another regular pump? Once again engineers over complicating things. The rest of the problems should be a ton of fun to figure out from what we've seen the owner hacked together so far. Hey Ivan I'll bet that interior smells wonderful with that swimming pool over on the passenger side floor and carpet.
As I mentioned on your other video, not sure if you saw it, as you are doing quite a few Volvo's, you should get the proper dealership software (VIDA) you can get a pirate copy for free and you can get either cheap Chinese DICE interface or Volvo specific VXDiag. Other than better Volvo specific diag/history/live data than you will get with the generic tool, the big benefit of VIDA is being able to get the correct part numbers for the car you are working on as there are so many variations. You put the VIN into VIDA and VIDA selects parts by "chassis number", so in the case of this fuel pump that you said changed at a certain year, the changeover is actually done by chassis number and VIDA will tell you the exact chassis number that the pump changed on
I always use airtex fuel pumps and never had a problem, when I worked in auto parts in the early nineties they were the most popular, that's when electric fuel pumps were becoming more prevalent.
The bonus high pressure spike should be ok. It appears as a system dynamics issue. Although there might fuel pressure damper issue if there is one… it is different than a regulator
I can just imagine how well the 4 fuel pump installations went for the owner when considering the unique wiring jobs under the hood. Especially the connections made under the wiper relay and the ground wire to the cooling fan ! If you can't road test it, I would seriously be conservative with any warranty for the customer since you are limited in doing your profession. I'd think the owner or who had been working on this vehicle needs to spend more time on TH-cam car videos about how to do proper wiring terminations etc. Either that or pay Ivan to clean up all of the DIY short cuts. Lots of hours in this job !
I'm a little puzzled by this too. How can 4 pumps cause the exact same problem? That can't be right. And what did the owner do with the new pump from the dealer? Surely, they wouldn't take it back after it was installed? Now I know that the hard plastic crossover tube is very easy to kink and crack if you're not careful when installing it. And if that happens, you will have to replace the pump again. Otherwise, it will suck air and not transfer gas from the left side reliably. If at all.
I want a Car With 5 Fuel pumps, What Twisted 💩 Mess Volvo, Shame on You Swiss Miss Mrs, Engineering gone Rogue again, O wait it's not a Nissan, Make Cars Great again, Well at least it's not Damded EV. Great Content IVAN, Fun to watch, I can sure smell the Gas from 1000 miles away 😁 wew 🇺🇸👍
Does the shared fuel filter have something to do with the problem?The new pumps may take a bit to be affected by it.If the new ones act up again replace that shared filter too.
Id like to see a post mortem on that last fuel pump. Screen plugged ?
This!
Yeah. That would be cool
Pumpocardytis . Goo .
Ivan going all Rambo on that thing without the shirt!!
It's hot and sunny
“To Survive A War, You Gotta' Become War.”
Rambo: First Blood, Part II (1985) Thats Ivan in a nut shell!👍
Naked and afraid...
Sure sign of summer, first sighting of Shirtless Ivan!
Yup … because that there Volvo villain drew first blood ! It’s go time ! 📈🔥💡🧰
At 14:07 Ivan pulled his shirt off. We all know this is about to get serious. GREAT VIDEO!
I believe I was correct in diagnosing the clogged filter. That black gunk in the bottom of that old pump is definitely implicated in the destruction of the pump/poor performance. I just did my fuel pump a few days ago and the tank was spotless; the inside of that Volvo tank was damned ugly. Wish you had done an autopsy on the old pump.
we NEED the pump autopsy!
Agreed
Quincy m.e 😂
@@johnbyrne7229 ivan p.e. (parts examiner)
@@johnbyrne7229 How crazy. I was watching that last night. Old TV really was the best.
Yay! A follow up! Thanks for not making me wait too long
Tell Ivan no more multi part uploads.
@@jedclampett6466I prefer it because I only watch a half an hour at a time even on the longer videos.
Love it! Four fuel pumps... No clue! I suspect we're missing some information.
Honestly these aren't awful vehicles, you just keep getting sent the bad ones! LOL
I let go of my '04 Jaguar last week. It hurt, but it was time. Now rolling about servicing customers out of a 2014 Toyota Rav4! Hello reliability!
Ivan has the patience, stamina, knowhow, and gut instinct to accomplish the task. Thanks for the effort.
Once again Ivan showed why he is the Sherlock Holmes of automotive diagnostics.
Owner: "This unreliable car is making me crazy."
Ivan diagnosing: "That is so cool!"
I have a hunch. From seeing all the fiddling you had to do to remove the old pump and install the new one, I am going to guess whomever installed the other new pumps didn't do it correctly, something is Bent, blocked, or twisted. 3 new pumps can't all be bad, my gut feeling is installation errors.
i thank this guy sniffing the gas instead of changing fuel pumps then he started changing fuel modules and working on the wipers
When the shirt comes off shits about to go down.
Volvos are very picky about fuel pressure and fuel quality, considering how sludged the old fuel pumps were, that new one wont last long unless that tank gets cleaned out. Been through this frustating shit with volvos going back to 940s and 960s
You're correct. The fuel tank had to have been contaminated
NOT the fault of Volvo. Those tanks are made of plastic. I suspect bad fuel in combination with standing unused for over a year.
With regard of the Volvo 900's these DID have fuel system problems but most of the time it was a bad fuel pump relay (bad solder points)
In a few case it would be a broken lift pump. The Bosch pressure pump hardly ever failed.
I had 1× 780, 3x 940 and wrenched on a few others as well. Good cars.
Euro trash for a reason, no offence
combined with modern gas does not keep like it used to before it seems to break down
Data driven diagnostics wins again👍why didn't the others that tried to fix it do the same no comprehension of auto diagnostics
Great video
Probably because they did a fuel pressure test from the top side and the new pump mimicked the old ones issues so they got confused.
This is better than watching a Hollywood movie and wasting 2 plus hours of my life! Now this will be my Saturday 2 hour movie night! With popcorn and soda!
Back in the day i had Volvo 144 sedans and 145 wagons. Simple carburetored pushrod valve engines.. about as diametrically opposed to the techno-diablo-volvo you have here.
I miss those old beasts. ;)
With what you showed us what it took to change the pump … the customer never touched it let alone 4 times
I seem to remember that Ford owned Volvo during the 2005 model year. Have to wonder about the design of the fuel system with two different fuel pumps.
Thank you for this video. I would question how much actual work was done to this car. What was supposedly done to it and what was actually done to it seems like two different things!
Good diag and fix Ivan.
On to the Volvo's next problem.
Another way to check the age of those pumps is the manufacturer date stamp. My original Volvo had “07” and the new Bosch one from FCP had “22”. So OE or OEM should have that year stamped on the top.
Well at least the new pump had the same pin out on the connector this time. There may be hope for volvos yet.
When the primary pump increasead speed to 11000 RPMs when pressure droped at the same time, was clear evidence of failing pump, because if the fuel lines were restricted from fuel pump to the engine,the pressure at same time would drop and the RPMs of the fuel pump would still be the same or 8000 RPMs would never change.
Thanks Ivan 🙂
I hate it when they are not up front with you. He never replaced the pump. He sent you box of parts where is the pumps? They are non returnable. I'm betting the rest of the problems are going to be from all the water..
Totally agree, I'm sure he was being less than honest about this.
Will we get a teardown of the old fuel pump? I would love to see inside of it
IVAN, AWESOME thought process and great approach you really nailed it good fix the customer should be happy thanks for sharing waiting for part 3 do not make us waiting long please CHEEEERS FROM CANADA.
Probably the problem with the other pumps was the installation by the owner trying to install that mess could create a lot of problems!!
on bonus footage, the fuel spike is because it's a turbo, could be the wastegate may not be working properly, intake "boost" pressure going high and fuel pressure spikes to keep pressure ratio right. But it may very well be an anti-lag technique in case you jump right back on the throttle hard. watch the manifold vacuum/pressure when it does it.
remember, boost + lean = quickly burnt piston holes and exhaust valves, so the pressure needs to stay correct in relation to manifold vacuum or boost pressure at all times.
I think you should have included EXTRA bonus footage of IVAN WALKING AROUND w/o HIS SHIRT ON [ ref 17:15 ] 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Dirt in the fuel tank the first 3 pump strainers cleared out most of it into the strainers. Tank was clear of dirt (still a bit murkey) when the 4th pump was fitted.
Suprised/not suprised there was no filter(s) after the pumps.
Tank needed draining and flushing out with its internals.
Dirt looked like broken up rubber.
My 1995 A6 has a strainer on the pump in the tank and a filter in the engine compartment before del' to the rail.
There is also a vent from the tank to the inlet manifold EGR which can cause problems.
At 5:50 into the 2nd video, I was leaning toward the idea that a foreign object is blocking the transfer tank fuel pickup tube......
I had a similar problem in a diesel Mercedes years back. There was a ~20 cm tall cylindrical mesh filter over the fuel intake at the tank, for large debris in fuel. Over time, the bottom part of the filter was clogged, and when the fuel was under 1/4 tank or so, the car would stall out at higher speeds. A vortex would develop inside the filter at the intake, and it would begin sucking air ... a temporary fix was to use a bike pump to force fuel back through the line and push some of the muck off of the filter mesh. Final fix was to drain tank and clean/replace the tank filter.
This is an every five year task in my 1982 300D. Diesel sludge covers that screen and it sucks air when turning corners on less than a quarter tank.
What an over complicated fuel pumping setup! You made the right call, Ivan. It was indeed the pump! But I find that sludge worrisome - is the tank dirty to a point it fouls the pump?
Let's wait for more adventure in Part 3 :-)
The customer's story is obviously BS, where is the new pump he fitted? You can't return them so why wouldn't he include it? I might believe he replaced the pump once with one from a wreckers, and managed to get a bad one from a car with a contaminated tank, but not four times.
@@ferrumignis Yep, that part of the story doesn't make sense. Seeing how the car is, he's a bandaid fixer and anything is to be expected🙂
@@ferrumignis He might have replaced only the pump, not the entire assembly. It's easier to find a matching pump at the boneyard than an exact match complete assembly, especially when the assembly was a partial year sub-model combination.
I just fail to understand how one motor was good enough , but now two are needed!
Yeah what a weird setup.
So it WAS the fuel pump after all. Maybe the owner didn't even change the pump in the first place or was scammed by a previous mechanic. Add to that this XC90's fuel pump was on the cusp of a crossover. Once again, Ivan has made the right call. The wiper issue should be a breeze by comparison.
I noticed that the old "new" pump zip ties and inner white plastic parts were significantly discolored from age. New OEM? Hmmm. It makes me wonder about the story. That black deposit in the bowl looks suspiciously like the residue from a worn impeller. Some backalley garage has been scamming this boy.
I believe he said the original pump was put back in.
Yeah, and also the owner said he did all the work , I think.
@@turdsmcgee14 It's not like you can return it, so why bother.
I think was only pump not all assembly...
Go back and watch part 1 again, Ivan mentioned the customer re-installed the original pump after the others didn't fix the problem.
hi Ivan me and Keith tried to fix that in NC we had to let it go to professional, we thought you should get only best , good for videos and diag class for learning, good job cheers
So, why don't you tell us the true story about the fuel pump????
A true master technician doing his thing. Awesome diagnosis.
Wow amazing diagnosis, I got 2 volvo fuel pumps to replace these week. Just happened to see these video on my recommendations. I'll verify if those spikes on fuel pressure are normal or not
Must be hot, no shirt,no shoes, no problem! Thanks again for the great video
IVAN,
YOUR ARE WELL SUPPORTED WITH FACTORY ALL DATA AND YOUR GOOD COMMAND OF APPLYING VOLTAGE SPECIFIATION READINGS LED TO THE SOURCE OF THE PINCHED WIRE
YOUR OVERHEAD COST JUSTIFYING THE COST OF THE DIAGNOSTIC CHARGES FOR EACH MALFUNCTION. IVAN. YOU ARE VERY TECHNICAL AND MOST SUCCESSEFUL.
GOOD FOR YOU ON A GREAT JOB.
This poor volvo deserves better owner than this. Totally agree with previous posts, that fuel pump is likely original to the car and likely was never replaced. Volvo pumps are lasting around 200k miles+ if not constantly operated on near empty fuel tank or shot by bad gasoline. Applaud your strategy to be paid for parts and labor after this problem was corrected. Something tells me that wipers will be "no parts required" unless harness was damaged by incorrect instalation(in vid 1 you can see it is moving when wipers are moving).
You know it's gonna be good when Ivan takes his shirt off folks!
24:30 I’d say it’s by design. I’d say it’s anticipated fuel demand, and this is a turbo so just to keep fuel flow the same, the pressure has to be raised a psi for every psi of boost just for the same flow at a given pulse width. We faced the same issue on the GNAT back in 87 when trying to increase boost past stock. With an adjustable boost pressure sensitive regulator, but the stock pump wasn’t up to both increased flow at the higher regulated pressure. Thus necessitating higher voltage to the pump (better wiring and or increasing alternator voltage output briefly under boost), then a better pump, then dual better pumps, then dual in-tank pumps feeding a powerful external pump. This to feed both higher pressure and volume to the increasing pound size of the injectors.
id still drop and clean the fuel tank
But would you pay someone else to do it?
On that vehicle dropping the tank is a huge job. The car is not worth that expense. Pumping out the gas and cleaning it by hand through the two openings is far more feasible.
@@joedunn1109 if the car is not worth why the owner wants it fixed? the point is there is probably gunk in the tank and this has potential to be warranty job...
@@joedunn1109 that was my thought, if you wanted to, just pump it out. wouldn't want to waste any more money on that car. But if it were a Cruze or a LaCrosse, sure....;)
@@ognjenjakovljevic494 The car is worth the new fuel pump, but it's not worth the labor cost of dropping the tank. I have replaced the fuel pump on my own XC90 twice (never use an after market fuel pump). Yes, it's important to clean the tank, and I did. I just didn't drop the tank to do it. Dropping the tank requires first removing the rear differential, driveshaft, and exhaust. Since it has independent rear suspension, getting the rear diff out means removing a good number of other parts first. Doing it on jack stands, while possible, is a job no one wants. Though it's not easy to clean the tank in situ, it can be done, and is easier than the alternative.
Originally mistakes were made and tail chasing ensued. When all signs point to a bad component and replacement doesn't fix it then you must, verify proper procedures, verify correct replacement parts, verify that the correct replacement parts actually function properly. I have a feeling that the OEM replacement fuel pump that was tried was the wrong pump which didn't have a transfer pump and the symptoms were very similar because of that. If the part doesn't match 100% then verify that it is a legitimate revised replacement part.
Nice series. I was wondering if one of the lines failed internally and created a flapper that pulls shut and stops fuel flow. I have seen that happening on semis that lost power under heavy loads when old fuel lines failed.
I had a similar problem once. But for a completely different reason. I had a Buick Enclave stall like this because the factory tank had a defect where the tank baffles would break and fuel would slosh to one side.
Was the screen clogged in the old pump? the gas in the tank looked relatively clean. Great diagnoses and repair.
The owner was BS’ing you
Hi Ivan, you should drop down the tank to be cleaned before installation of the new pump and the owner should use good quality fuel to prevent that from happening again.
I suppose to check the old pump assembly about the primary filter, the inlet section, the hoses and the outlet high pressure regulator valve.... I suppose to make a new episode for that.
Thanks.
Eng. Amr Medhat
I didn’t quite get that sound of the transfer pump noise? Around 7:24 mark?! 😂
Before buying new pumps, shoulda yanked the current pumps out of the fuel tank & examined them closer and bench tested them for performance.
Does not take long when running dry to damage those pumps.
I had someone stuff a garbage bag into gas tank. Bag dissolved but plugged pump and filters, many times till tank was removed. Frustrating
I saw it happen with a few squares of toilet paper. It dissolved into fiber and plugged up the screen. Once it starved out the car died. Then the fibers fell away and it would run again for a while. same symptoms as this one is having.
Sludge ! Dang !! Cleanliness is next to godliness . In auto repair and surgery . Nice 👍🏼 fix Ivan !!
contrary to what most people think, the best way to endure heat is to wear a baggy cloths that allow air to go in and create ventilation.
Just like Tuareg blue men of sahara do 😃
The way the pressure was jerking around, I wonder if there's a pressure regulating valve that was sticking.
EDIT: Apparently the regulating valve is built into the fuel pump unit... Makes sense. Valve not moving freely, perhaps fouled or corroded by bad gas?
awesome thank you mr pine excellent diagnosis
Ivan great video i would like to see the old pump sludge build up.
I like how these diagnostics goes like peeling off an onion.. you go issue by issue and new things come up revealing the order of errors
The 3 pumps in tank, must be used on the 'sporty cornering edition' 🤣
Wow-that was a tricky one with many potential problems especially with the information from the customer. The methodical diagnosis ultimately proved correct. I'm nervous about the sludge in the old pump which points (potentially) to tank contamination. Hopefully all of the other pumps cleaned the sediment out and there are no more problems. Something else is going on here though with the rest of the electrical system. We could see that the sunroof drains that come off at the A pillar, so we do have water intrusion. Did this car get flooded (freshwater) at another point in its life? Why the CEM? The low mileage and general condition of the vehicle do not seem to match up, which Ivan alluded to in the first video. Great work Ivan!
Good call now your don't have to eat a fuel pump
OEM Volvo is probably a Delphi unit. Those cars come from the factory with a lot of Delphi parts. There were several Volvo models that used the GM 4T65-E transmission and Delphi AC compressors.
The T6 models used the (frankly terrible) 4T65. The 5 cylinder cars like this XC90 most of the time used an Aisin unit.
@@CatalinaSkybird couldn't remember the models. A buddy of mine worked at a Volvo parts distribution center here in Georgia and told me they were getting shipments of tranny's in from GM. I don't think they held up under the turbo but in GMs I've had great reliability out of them. I've owned 2 grand prix GTPs (97 & 02) and an 07 GXP that had the 4T65E-HD in them the 97 and the 07 each had over 200K on them the 02 was totalled before 100K. I didn't have any problems with them. I do change my ATF and filter every 15K miles, maybe that's why. I had read bad reviews on the GXP regarding transmission failure and I wondered if it would last. Did they use the HD version in the Volvos?
@@topher8634 Volvo put a very soft shifting tune on the transmission and that's what kills them, on the GXP's the issue stems from the Displacement on Demand when the engine goes into 4 cylinder mode it puts too much stress on the torque converter causing to disintegrate and send material through out the trans this is also an issue on the trucks with the cylinder deactivation system. 4T65E get a lot of flack but they're not bad transmission as long as you do the maintenance (fluid and filter every 40k maximum) people will drive on the same fluid and filter until 180k miles and then blame the transmission for braking.
@@topher8634as far as I know, Volvo did use the HD version. Volvo claimed in a press release that they made 70 changes to the transmission (not sure what those are). Had one in a 99 S80 T6. Loved that car except for the transmission. Also had another go in a 3400 powered 2005 Impala. That transmission was much more suited to the Impala.
@@markdonovan4157 I've always changed my fluid and filter every 15K. That's what I was raised as standard. Only vehicle I've ever had an automatic transmission failure in was a Honda Accord it was my GF car she bought new, I changed the fluid on it (there's no replaceable filter for most Hondas) like I did all my vehicles and it failed without warning while we were on vacation in Myrtle Beach at 42K miles. It ended up eating another one before we got rid of it. I had to replace the lifters on my GXP around 150K after one was stuck in the deactivated state and I opted for the AFM delete when I did so. It's a shame they couldn't engineer it to be more reliable. On the highway I was getting 28 MPG. After the delete I was lucky to get 20.
Holy hell that thing never stops beeping
At 21:02, what is the reason why the gauge shows less 14 from the data on the scan tool? How does atmospheric pressure play into it?
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Thank you for reminding me why I dont buy European cars!!! My family owned a couple of Peugeot diesels back in the 80's...super comfortable & great handling cars (we had both a 504 & a 505) but things would break that should never break on any car...1 inch thick cooling fan shaft....just snapped one day!!! WHAT??? Yeah thats one example among many others.....now I drive Toyota & Lexus and only do maintainance...
Volvo & all newer junk overcomplicated cars from hell.your the best ivanski !
Those type fuel pumps have been used for at least 35 years....
Because domestic garbage has never suffered from a clogged filter sock....
What a ball breaker to install a fuel pump in, YIKES!
Wow! what a flipping mission Ivan - mind you, I was surprised you didn't whip off the fuel lines and watched the pumps pump into a handy receptacle - or not but I suppose high pressure is rather dodgy to do with no fire extinguisher in sight. I'm more used to diesel and none of my machines self bleed!
I'm glad you mentioned something about taxes (DMT) licence plates and insurance - I've said this to Matt over at Diesel Creak and Clint & Co at C&C Equipment - it would be educational for us Brits ( other domains are available) to hear how things are over with you. Our DVLA are a complete Shower of ..... illegitimates! And take every opportunity to screw the motorist and traders - many outfits maintain Trade Plates (godknows how many rules covering their use!) and our insurers take us all to the cleaners - we have to jump through many hoops to get a quote and then often have to prove our No Claims Discount ( which can be dicey!) this despite there being such a thing as the Insurer's Database which let's them know in any case but it's secret and only used to trick folk rather than help them.
Ivan slayed another dragon.
This is probably a good example why the Mitsubishi AWD vacuum venturi system that just uses the main pump to create the venturi is a better solution.
Nice one! Also, nice fart at 0:42 😆
🤣😆🙄
had to pause video to get me some popcorn
Ivan empty out and clean the gas tank out .
Sludge will cause issues later .
Excellent channel 👍
I had found cars trucks vandalism people put crap in fuel tanks .
Before repo man came often spite .
Same question as mine above ...I wouldn't have posted if I saw yours first...
@@pyralux01 Ivan is excellent.
That’s not a 5 minute job. I doubt the owner wanted Ivan to do it.
@@brianw8963 I usually can pull fuel out through fuel pump opening quickly.
Then wipe inside bottom with clean rags on a flex rod .
Gets 99% of all debris .
They have a production birth date you must go by that then order the proper pump ! As I was a Volvo mechanic for years !
I can't swear to this one, but the V70 with AWD is sort of a saddle tank setup. It goes over the drive shaft. So, there's a left and right pump for getting fuel from both sides. There's also a cornering issue where if you only pumped from one side and drove on a slope or were on a race track turning in one direction you would empty one side and perhaps suck air. Saab had to change the fuel pickup for one of their endurance runs as they could only use half the tank while cornering.
I suspect that the fuel pickup sock might have been plugged and that's why it was starving for fuel. And perhaps some junk floating around in the bottom of the tank.
You might wind up cleaning the bottom of the tank if there's some stuff still floating around. You can suck it dry from the top and then swab it out from the top with a length of #14 electric wire and a paper towel as a mop. Use good ones that don't shed fibers....
Looks good with the new pump. That guy has really bad luck, with that many pumps.
Any job worth doing is worth new, brand name parts. Junkyard parts prove nothing.
Good video.
Good call with the pump, sometimes you have to take the risk of replacing something even with data your side.
Surprised you didn't move the fuel module like it stated in the tsb
Well, My hypothesis was spot on. It was interesting. Nice conclusion Ivan and have a great week. 👍👍🇺🇸
Had this issue before with a nissan R33 ~ the actual cause was the fuel pump impeller had loosened on the pump motor shaft.
It pays to be a stubborn bugger ivan... well done brother..and thanks for the info 👍.. its what makes a great channel dude.. your one of the few ❤
The problem here is that the Wrong Fuel pump was put in here all those times. They put the newer one in thinking it would be just fine when this system was designed for the older style 2 pump version and not the 3 pump version like revised in later years is what I gather happened here from what you showed.
Hit like for a fuel pump autopsy vote.
Definitely need to have a look at that original pump assembly and it would be interesting to see what the inside of the fuel tank looks like. The car has half a tank now but what's getting sucked up when its close to empty? This tank set up reminds me of that Dodge Charger. Why on earth design a tank that straddles the driveshaft hump and needs a transfer pump? And why rely on a Venturi pump instead of just using another regular pump? Once again engineers over complicating things. The rest of the problems should be a ton of fun to figure out from what we've seen the owner hacked together so far. Hey Ivan I'll bet that interior smells wonderful with that swimming pool over on the passenger side floor and carpet.
As I mentioned on your other video, not sure if you saw it, as you are doing quite a few Volvo's, you should get the proper dealership software (VIDA) you can get a pirate copy for free and you can get either cheap Chinese DICE interface or Volvo specific VXDiag. Other than better Volvo specific diag/history/live data than you will get with the generic tool, the big benefit of VIDA is being able to get the correct part numbers for the car you are working on as there are so many variations. You put the VIN into VIDA and VIDA selects parts by "chassis number", so in the case of this fuel pump that you said changed at a certain year, the changeover is actually done by chassis number and VIDA will tell you the exact chassis number that the pump changed on
I always use airtex fuel pumps and never had a problem, when I worked in auto parts in the early nineties they were the most popular, that's when electric fuel pumps were becoming more prevalent.
The bonus high pressure spike should be ok. It appears as a system dynamics issue. Although there might fuel pressure damper issue if there is one… it is different than a regulator
A loose impeller ?
I can just imagine how well the 4 fuel pump installations went for the owner when considering the unique wiring jobs under the hood. Especially the connections made under the wiper relay and the ground wire to the cooling fan ! If you can't road test it, I would seriously be conservative with any warranty for the customer since you are limited in doing your profession. I'd think the owner or who had been working on this vehicle needs to spend more time on TH-cam car videos about how to do proper wiring terminations etc. Either that or pay Ivan to clean up all of the DIY short cuts. Lots of hours in this job !
Check fuel filter might be clogged
I have no douts that you willl find the problem as usual you allways do, you are great . BAYTOWN , TEXAS
I’ve seen this problem with Camry, pump is leaking internally
9:18 fuel filter clogged?
I'm a little puzzled by this too. How can 4 pumps cause the exact same problem? That can't be right. And what did the owner do with the new pump from the dealer? Surely, they wouldn't take it back after it was installed? Now I know that the hard plastic crossover tube is very easy to kink and crack if you're not careful when installing it. And if that happens, you will have to replace the pump again. Otherwise, it will suck air and not transfer gas from the left side reliably. If at all.
The customer's story is about as reliable as his fuel pump imo, nothing adds up.
I want a Car With 5 Fuel pumps, What Twisted 💩 Mess Volvo, Shame on You Swiss Miss Mrs, Engineering gone Rogue again, O wait it's not a Nissan, Make Cars Great again, Well at least it's not Damded EV. Great Content IVAN, Fun to watch, I can sure smell the Gas from 1000 miles away 😁 wew 🇺🇸👍
Great video, what will Ivan take in next week
Does the shared fuel filter have something to do with the problem?The new pumps may take a bit to be affected by it.If the new ones act up again replace that shared filter too.
High duty cycle and pressure dropped clinched it. Edit: episode 5, junk in tank, clogged filter screen. D'oh.