I add glue relief grooves in my inserts to promote adhesion. I would have also milled the g10 like a plug to ensure it is seated properly in the shaft, then take down the exposed material and add the ferrule.
I have a suggestion, have you ever thought on about gluing a tape meaning to your work bench do you could just butt up the shaft against a fix/removable/flip piece of wood and do it all with one hand or have both available? Even you could compare two shafts at once without having to guess it and measuring twice. If that doesn’t work, could you share with us why doesn’t it? Thank you!
I actually do have a measuring tape taped to my work bench. I use it just to get a quick measurement and if precision is not needed. It is very helpful especially when cutting wood blanks. I also like to use a tape measure to get me the accurate length. Thank you again for commenting.
Thank you for subscribing. My next video will be on how I build a CNC to taper shafts and I go live on playing pool. If interested, I have some short clips on Facebook on the CNC I built. Thank you again. facebook.com/felix.yao.5205
Thank you so much for your video. Is there any way to remove the scratches on carbon fiber shaft after the ferrule without cutting the shaft? Thank in advance.
You can try to sand it off. The scratches can’t be too deep or it will change the diameter of the shaft. Also if you plan to lightly, I mean lightly, make sure you get quality sandpaper like 3M, no less than 1000 grit. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
I have a Revo that is making a ticky noise from the vault plate. The vault plate likely has a small crack and scratches. I would like to remove the vault plate and replace it with a small white ferrule similar to this video. How can I reach you for the repair work?
I would reach out to Predator first. They should warranty the shaft. Also replacing vault plate with a longer ferrule will change the deflection properties of the shaft. It would most likely have more deflection. Hope this helps.
I love how at 23 min you go from all that sanding back to the lathe bit to trim...lol. Why not do that first to get flush then light sand through the grits? Also did he want the ferrule that long?? I would hate a long white visible Ferrule like the wooden shafts
That is one way I clean carbon shaft too, alcohol wipes. That is the recommended way to clean them. Sorry can’t help anymore and thank you for subscribing.
amazing work !. just have a quick question. i recently changed the tip on my revo shaft. that was one month ago but i recently noticed some remaining stains from the super glue on the shaft just under the white vault plate. i tried removing it with alcohol but sadly that did not work. i would really appreciate it if you could tell me what to do.
Nail polish remover work to an extent. Try not to get it on the tip. It can weaken the bond on the tip and it can delaminated the tip. Also you can slowly pick a the glue with “dental” tools or a slowly scrap it with a razor blade. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
No problem just be very careful when using the sharpe tools and it might be easier if the shaft is held by something like on the lathe or shaft taped up and on a vise.
Hi, just want to ask, does jacoby carbon fiber shaft originally have a male type ferrule like the cuetec cynergy where you put the ferrule inside the shaft instead of putting a tenon on it?
It might use the same ferrule but it was not a solid tenon. The ferrule was hollowed. In my opinion a, the G10 is lighter and much stronger than any hollow ferrule. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
THE GUY JUST SHOWED YOU A JACOBY SHAFT AND FERRULE. ITS HOLLOW. ITS CRAP PRODUCTION SYSTEM. WHY PLAY WITH A HOLLOW SHAFT, AND ALL THOSE LITTLE PLASTIC PIECES TO ABSORB, HIT THE CUEBALL. NO NATURAL FEEL. WOOD GOES THRU FERRULE TO TIP, CANT BEAT WOOD, ASK ERFREN AND EARL, ETC.
On carbon fiber shafts, that is a little difficult. Some tried rubbing compound then polishing compound but some are so afraid to anything except using rubbing alcohol. I use rubbing and polishing compound on my Revo and nothing happened to it. It doesn’t damage the carbon fiber. If you think about carbon fiber is used in many applications. Also been in army aviation, we worked on carbon fiber and we saw what carbon fiber can go through. With that said, you can also use micro sand pads. I have done it and it will remove light scratches but that is it. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Same, use micro sand paper so you don’t change the tip diameter. Hope this helps. Here is the link. www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Micro-Finishing-Cloth-Abrasive-Pads/p/108354?gclid=CjwKCAjw_MqgBhAGEiwAnYOAesDT8aWSJD4eHhkmhsCGwzqgZ4naJQT-SbkAr7BvIVaTjmc5n8hbdxoCmhoQAvD_BwE
I didn’t have two shafts. I was removing the scratches by cutting the carbon fiber shaft. I had to make the ferrule longer due to the carbon fiber being shorter. Hope this helps, don’t forget to subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share. Hope this helps. Link for the G10 rod. www.cuestik.com/g10-solid-brown-rods-ab-06/g10-156brn/
Why wouldn't you have simply filled the scratches and then polished the fill down to original size? Seems to me like all the changes you made are going to alter how it performs.
My friend didn’t want nothing to do with the scratches plus the shaft was making noise. He wanted a real ferrule where he can see it plus he is good enough where he can adapt to little changes. I totally agree on how I altered the performance on the shaft, my friend likes it better, now it has the same deflection as his wood shaft, he doesn’t have to adjust when playing with his wood shaft to this carbon shaft, a ferrule he can now see and the annoying sound on the front end is gone. He is happy with the change, he doesn’t have to switch shafts when playing 10 ball to 1 pocket. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
I not that confident with the the auto feed. I already crashed it and messed up the teeth on the pinion. I ordered two extra just in case moments lol. Thank you for commenting.
They probably do. He got the shaft second hand and from the looks from it, someone scratched the shaft up. That is really hard to get warranty case when someone used coarse grit sandpaper on the shaft. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
It was hard for me to watch your video because of how sloppy your work is. That's not a judgment, but an observation. You used a piece of leather to cushion the shaft in the chuck, probably assuming that the shaft would stay centered because the thickness of the leather would be consistent. No way possible! In fact, when chucking up anything, you should be using a dial indicator to verify that your work piece is actually centered. If not centered, you can use thin shims of paper to achieve a perfect center. You almost certainly lost your center by at least .004", the way you did it. With experience, you will learn these things. Good start, but sloppy at this point.
All areas of the pool playing world need someone who can fix pool cues to some extent. You are doing fine. As for the performance of the cue afterwards, the difference in this case will be small. It appears that you may have moved the pivot point of the cue just a small bit to the tip. Instead of a pivot point of 14 to 15 inches for a Jacoby Black, you may have made it a 13 to 14 inch pivot point. That will do two things, the response of the cue for spin etc. will go up a little which will make it do a little more for you but as a shafts pivot point shortens, it's friendliness to shooters bridge position decreases. Shortening the pivot point adds to the response for spin but also adds to ability to go wrong in the shot. There is always a give and take to everything. If the owner has good stroke fundamentals they will like the change but if those basic fundamentals are not so good they will have more misses. All Predator cues have a 19 inch pivot point which makes them extremally friendly for Parallel English, this is what they are made for. The 19 inch Predator shafts are excellent for Parallel English but anyone trying to play Back Hand English (BHE) will need a shaft with a shorter pivot point then 19 inches. The further back the pivot point of the cue the further back you need the bridge for BHE, 19 inches is too far back. The Jacoby Black has roughly a 14 to 15 inch pivot point off the shelf and this just so happens to be a friendly shaft for BHE. This is the ideal size to start learning BHE. I custom made my personnel carbon fiber shaft with an 11 inch pivot point specifically for BHE which is amazing for spin performance but costly if you are not bridging exactly where the shot needs and is not something available on the market in carbon fiber. You may find lesser regular wooden shafts with a pivot point this short or less but I am yet to find a carbon fiber with such a short pivot point. The 11 inch pivot point is not recommended unless you really understand where to bridge for specific shots based on cue ball to object ball distance and power. I do not call this system of using Back Hand English, Back Hand English, it also needs Front Hand Pivoting as well sometimes so I call this style of applying spin "Pivot English". It is all about where you bridge and pivot. If you use the back hand to pivot for spin, you are pivoting at the bridge hand or front hand and when you use the front hand to pivot, your are pivoting at the back hand. In closing you did a great job and may have only enhanced the spin ability of the shaft with minimal increase in its unfriendly behavior.
Wow. Thank you for your deep analysis. Not many “pool players” know or even heard of back hand English. I use it for shots that requires a fast firm hit to move the cue around the table. I use with my Revo and I know I have to compensate a little because I don’t have a long enough bridge. For the Jacoby shaft, it’s my friend’s shaft and he also uses back hand English. The only thing is, that is not his primary shooting shaft or cue that mates with that shaft. He doesn’t compete in tournaments like he used to. He just shoots for fun now. He uses almost all his cue and many are standard maple shafts with custom tapers for custom cue makers. I he has been playing pool for a long time so any shaft and cue he picks up, he can adapt to how much deflection the shafts has. I don’t even think he has really noticed the pivot point on the Jacoby. He was just happy the deep scratches are gone. Thank you again for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
@@playpool12fyao I have been studying Pivot English for 8 years, building carbon fiber shafts for Pivot English in the last two years. While I am nobody in the world of pool and will never be a pro in any way, I love the science of pool. I have extensive knowledge of Vibration Analysis and taught Vibration Analysis to Aircraft Technicians for many years. Plus I have been making and repairing cues for 40 years. My friend is also extremally intelligent and has degrees in math and an insane passion of pool science as well. Between the two of us we embarked on learning the science of Pivot English. To that end I truly believe we know more then is understood by the masses at this time. The big thing to take away from me is how important it is to know the exact behavior of your cue. What is not available online related to BHE (Pivot English) is where to bridge based on power and cue ball to object ball distance. If you bridge the right place on the cue, you time the return of the cue ball to the shot line center line at the same time it contacts the object ball at the exact point of aim. By doing this you can aim straight thru the cue ball center to the contact point of the object ball, then freeze the bridge, pivot to the desired spin and fire the shot dead true. Deflection will throw the cue ball off the center line and swerve will bring it back exactly where and when you need to be. Amazing. The proper bridge location is what the world is missing when you try to learn BHE online. This does not seem to be known outside my friend and I, it is not knowledge you can find anywhere. Presently players are practicing with their own comfortable bridge points and trying to make BHE work. In the same way practice can make Parallel English work, they make BHE work to some extent. I have asked many that have put out videos on BHE why they bridge where they do and only ever get the same answer. It is where they like to bridge and do not show real knowledge of the cues true behavior and bridging based on that pivot behavior. Without the knowledge of the cue's vibrational behavior and where to bridge so the deflection and swerve cancels out to return the cue ball to the center of the aim line upon contact with object ball, you are simply learning BHE the same as how we all learned Parrallel English. I have marked my cue with colored dots that represent cue ball to object ball distances of "two and four diamonds hard speed, center and bottom spin", "two and four diamonds medium speed, center and bottom spin" and "two and four diamonds top spin". Still working on soft because soft can be lacking deflection at all which makes it difficult but since there is usually little distance involved it is not as important. Once you truly understand your cue, Pivot English allows for amazing cue ball control on any shot with unrivalled accuracy and English to control the cue balls destination for the next shot with an amazing amount of spin and control. Remember that long pivot point low deflection shafts such as Predator 19 inch Shafts are not the right shafts for Pivot English. They are excellent shafts for Parallel English just not for Pivot English.
@@Soniccues in your experience, how do you manufacture a carbon fiber shaft with a specific pivot point? Is it a question of where the foam mass should be?
Because most people think that the lack of a white ferrule will affect their ability to quickly sight the point of aim while shooting. Makes no difference to me.
@@masonryman8183 If it doesn't affect you, then great. But it does affect A LOT of people....me included, reason being that the white actually shows up as a reflection in the cue ball when you're addressing close to the cue ball(that said, it probably wouldn't make a difference to people who don't address right up to within 2-3mm of the cueball.)
I hope your wearing a proper respirator when cutting Away at the carbon fiber. If not you will Regret even that minor of cutting your putting a Good amount of airborn particles that’s could damage your lungs
I couldn’t believe what I was watching! I finished the video out of morbid curiosity. That shaft will never play the same again. I guess if the customer doesn’t care about that then its a useful video. I have watched a couple of your videos when you use the lathe. I gotta tell you, this is not your expertise and is treated more like a hobby than a profession. I wouldn’t recommend anyone follow these methods.
The shaft surly doesn’t play the same. The customer loves it even more. No more rattle and the shaft feels more solid not hollow like before. The deflection is about the same. The G10 didn’t affect the deflection but what it did is get that hollow and feel sound out of the shaft. Also you are correct, pool and pool related things is a hobby to me and I don’t want it to be a profession. I’m retired and don’t really want to work anymore to include making pool cue and repairing pool cues. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
He got the shaft second hand and he did not want to tell who did the work previously. I has to fix some of his other shaft because of posers trying to put on a tip. For some reason they think sanding the ferrule and the shaft is the correct way to trim down the tip. Thank you again for commenting.
Oh, now I understand what that “stick” is! It’s your vacuum!!
Thank you!
Yes it’s my vacuum. I like to have a clean work area. Thank you again for commenting.
I add glue relief grooves in my inserts to promote adhesion. I would have also milled the g10 like a plug to ensure it is seated properly in the shaft, then take down the exposed material and add the ferrule.
Thank you for commenting. I will do that on future shafts I might be fixing.
I have a suggestion, have you ever thought on about gluing a tape meaning to your work bench do you could just butt up the shaft against a fix/removable/flip piece of wood and do it all with one hand or have both available? Even you could compare two shafts at once without having to guess it and measuring twice.
If that doesn’t work, could you share with us why doesn’t it?
Thank you!
I actually do have a measuring tape taped to my work bench. I use it just to get a quick measurement and if precision is not needed. It is very helpful especially when cutting wood blanks. I also like to use a tape measure to get me the accurate length. Thank you again for commenting.
Thanks for the middle finger 😆 🤣 😅 awesome videos man, ive subscribed and waiting for next
Thank you for subscribing. My next video will be on how I build a CNC to taper shafts and I go live on playing pool. If interested, I have some short clips on Facebook on the CNC I built. Thank you again.
facebook.com/felix.yao.5205
when I make my insert in lathe I just make one solid piece for the ferrule I like how you make the tenon first
Thank you. I try to make the front end light as possible and try to keep the low deflection property. Thank you again for commenting and please share.
Great explanation very informative.
Thank you.
would you mind sharing the brand of the American Cue lathe you have? Thanks
It’s the Pro version with the large bore head. Thank you for commenting.
Wouldn't a longer ferrule give more deflection?
It would but I needed to keep the shaft the same length. Thank you for commenting.
Wonderful work my friend.
Thank you and thank you for commenting again and please share.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you. Thank you for commenting don’t forget to subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Thank you so much for your video.
Is there any way to remove the scratches on carbon fiber shaft after the ferrule without cutting the shaft?
Thank in advance.
You can try to sand it off. The scratches can’t be too deep or it will change the diameter of the shaft. Also if you plan to lightly, I mean lightly, make sure you get quality sandpaper like 3M, no less than 1000 grit. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
I have a Revo that is making a ticky noise from the vault plate. The vault plate likely has a small crack and scratches. I would like to remove the vault plate and replace it with a small white ferrule similar to this video. How can I reach you for the repair work?
I would reach out to Predator first. They should warranty the shaft. Also replacing vault plate with a longer ferrule will change the deflection properties of the shaft. It would most likely have more deflection. Hope this helps.
I love how at 23 min you go from all that sanding back to the lathe bit to trim...lol. Why not do that first to get flush then light sand through the grits? Also did he want the ferrule that long?? I would hate a long white visible Ferrule like the wooden shafts
how can you make a carbon fibre smooth. i have a revo shaft and it’s not smooth at all, i tried cleaning it with alcohol wipes and it’s still the same
That is one way I clean carbon shaft too, alcohol wipes. That is the recommended way to clean them. Sorry can’t help anymore and thank you for subscribing.
Where do you get the g10 rod and your ferrules?
I got the rods from Atlas Billiard.
atlassupplies.com.
Hope this helps and thank you for commenting again.
Nice work!
Thank you. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
amazing work !. just have a quick question. i recently changed the tip on my revo shaft. that was one month ago but i recently noticed some remaining stains from the super glue on the shaft just under the white vault plate. i tried removing it with alcohol but sadly that did not work. i would really appreciate it if you could tell me what to do.
Nail polish remover work to an extent. Try not to get it on the tip. It can weaken the bond on the tip and it can delaminated the tip. Also you can slowly pick a the glue with “dental” tools or a slowly scrap it with a razor blade. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
@@playpool12fyao thanks a lot for answering so quick !. I will try it tmw and hopefully it will work.
No problem just be very careful when using the sharpe tools and it might be easier if the shaft is held by something like on the lathe or shaft taped up and on a vise.
@@playpool12fyao i tried it with Aceton and it worked ! thanks a lot. now it looks new again.
So glad it worked and thank you for keeping me posted.
Hi, just want to ask, does jacoby carbon fiber shaft originally have a male type ferrule like the cuetec cynergy where you put the ferrule inside the shaft instead of putting a tenon on it?
It might use the same ferrule but it was not a solid tenon. The ferrule was hollowed. In my opinion a, the G10 is lighter and much stronger than any hollow ferrule. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
THE GUY JUST SHOWED YOU A JACOBY SHAFT AND FERRULE. ITS HOLLOW. ITS CRAP PRODUCTION SYSTEM. WHY PLAY WITH A HOLLOW SHAFT, AND ALL THOSE LITTLE PLASTIC PIECES TO ABSORB, HIT THE CUEBALL. NO NATURAL FEEL. WOOD GOES THRU FERRULE TO TIP, CANT BEAT WOOD, ASK ERFREN AND EARL, ETC.
how to make cue smoother or clean from little scratches ??
i mean mapple wood shaft..how to clean lilttle scratches?using sand paper ?
On carbon fiber shafts, that is a little difficult. Some tried rubbing compound then polishing compound but some are so afraid to anything except using rubbing alcohol. I use rubbing and polishing compound on my Revo and nothing happened to it. It doesn’t damage the carbon fiber. If you think about carbon fiber is used in many applications. Also been in army aviation, we worked on carbon fiber and we saw what carbon fiber can go through. With that said, you can also use micro sand pads. I have done it and it will remove light scratches but that is it. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Same, use micro sand paper so you don’t change the tip diameter. Hope this helps.
Here is the link.
www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Micro-Finishing-Cloth-Abrasive-Pads/p/108354?gclid=CjwKCAjw_MqgBhAGEiwAnYOAesDT8aWSJD4eHhkmhsCGwzqgZ4naJQT-SbkAr7BvIVaTjmc5n8hbdxoCmhoQAvD_BwE
Why didn’t you first attach the ferrule to the tenon and then cut both at the 29’ mark?
I didn’t have two shafts. I was removing the scratches by cutting the carbon fiber shaft. I had to make the ferrule longer due to the carbon fiber being shorter. Hope this helps, don’t forget to subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Where I can get the G 10 please 🙏
Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share. Hope this helps.
Link for the G10 rod.
www.cuestik.com/g10-solid-brown-rods-ab-06/g10-156brn/
Dam your good at that
Lol that shaft is ruined now. Totally takes away the low to
No deflection claim
Away
Great job
Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Why wouldn't you have simply filled the scratches and then polished the fill down to original size? Seems to me like all the changes you made are going to alter how it performs.
My friend didn’t want nothing to do with the scratches plus the shaft was making noise. He wanted a real ferrule where he can see it plus he is good enough where he can adapt to little changes. I totally agree on how I altered the performance on the shaft, my friend likes it better, now it has the same deflection as his wood shaft, he doesn’t have to adjust when playing with his wood shaft to this carbon shaft, a ferrule he can now see and the annoying sound on the front end is gone. He is happy with the change, he doesn’t have to switch shafts when playing 10 ball to 1 pocket. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Is it possible to straighten a carbon shaft?
I don’t know and haven’t seen any videos on how to straighten carbon shaft.
try heating it w a heat gun- then rapidly cooling it while straight- computer duster can upside down. may take a few tries
What's the lathe that you are using?
It a Mid American Cue Lathe Big Bore. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
try using your auto feed when trimming your ferrule down works really well nice smooth cut
I not that confident with the the auto feed. I already crashed it and messed up the teeth on the pinion. I ordered two extra just in case moments lol. Thank you for commenting.
How much u charge for one of this jobs?
Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share. Also please DM on Facebook for prices.
How can I find u on face?
@@osvaldobazan9024 on the description I have all the links. Thank you again for commenting.
Jacoby's warranty didn't cover this? I've sent mine in multiple times free of charge.
They probably do. He got the shaft second hand and from the looks from it, someone scratched the shaft up. That is really hard to get warranty case when someone used coarse grit sandpaper on the shaft. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Nice repair work
I like last 4ever tip tool because no dent or scratches on ferrule it’s really good
Thank you for commenting again and the 4ever tip tool is a help. Thank you again and please share.
what lathe do you recommend? (link)
What kind of work are you planning to do.
@@playpool12fyao the most common thing here in the salon is the change of tip or ·virola"
www.midamericapool.com/index.html
Here the link where I got my lathe. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
www.midamericapool.com/index.html
Here the link where I got my lathe. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
It was hard for me to watch your video because of how sloppy your work is. That's not a judgment, but an observation. You used a piece of leather to cushion the shaft in the chuck, probably assuming that the shaft would stay centered because the thickness of the leather would be consistent. No way possible! In fact, when chucking up anything, you should be using a dial indicator to verify that your work piece is actually centered. If not centered, you can use thin shims of paper to achieve a perfect center. You almost certainly lost your center by at least .004", the way you did it. With experience, you will learn these things. Good start, but sloppy at this point.
All areas of the pool playing world need someone who can fix pool cues to some extent. You are doing fine. As for the performance of the cue afterwards, the difference in this case will be small. It appears that you may have moved the pivot point of the cue just a small bit to the tip. Instead of a pivot point of 14 to 15 inches for a Jacoby Black, you may have made it a 13 to 14 inch pivot point. That will do two things, the response of the cue for spin etc. will go up a little which will make it do a little more for you but as a shafts pivot point shortens, it's friendliness to shooters bridge position decreases. Shortening the pivot point adds to the response for spin but also adds to ability to go wrong in the shot. There is always a give and take to everything. If the owner has good stroke fundamentals they will like the change but if those basic fundamentals are not so good they will have more misses.
All Predator cues have a 19 inch pivot point which makes them extremally friendly for Parallel English, this is what they are made for. The 19 inch Predator shafts are excellent for Parallel English but anyone trying to play Back Hand English (BHE) will need a shaft with a shorter pivot point then 19 inches. The further back the pivot point of the cue the further back you need the bridge for BHE, 19 inches is too far back. The Jacoby Black has roughly a 14 to 15 inch pivot point off the shelf and this just so happens to be a friendly shaft for BHE. This is the ideal size to start learning BHE. I custom made my personnel carbon fiber shaft with an 11 inch pivot point specifically for BHE which is amazing for spin performance but costly if you are not bridging exactly where the shot needs and is not something available on the market in carbon fiber. You may find lesser regular wooden shafts with a pivot point this short or less but I am yet to find a carbon fiber with such a short pivot point. The 11 inch pivot point is not recommended unless you really understand where to bridge for specific shots based on cue ball to object ball distance and power.
I do not call this system of using Back Hand English, Back Hand English, it also needs Front Hand Pivoting as well sometimes so I call this style of applying spin "Pivot English". It is all about where you bridge and pivot. If you use the back hand to pivot for spin, you are pivoting at the bridge hand or front hand and when you use the front hand to pivot, your are pivoting at the back hand. In closing you did a great job and may have only enhanced the spin ability of the shaft with minimal increase in its unfriendly behavior.
Wow. Thank you for your deep analysis. Not many “pool players” know or even heard of back hand English. I use it for shots that requires a fast firm hit to move the cue around the table. I use with my Revo and I know I have to compensate a little because I don’t have a long enough bridge. For the Jacoby shaft, it’s my friend’s shaft and he also uses back hand English. The only thing is, that is not his primary shooting shaft or cue that mates with that shaft. He doesn’t compete in tournaments like he used to. He just shoots for fun now. He uses almost all his cue and many are standard maple shafts with custom tapers for custom cue makers. I he has been playing pool for a long time so any shaft and cue he picks up, he can adapt to how much deflection the shafts has. I don’t even think he has really noticed the pivot point on the Jacoby. He was just happy the deep scratches are gone. Thank you again for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
@@playpool12fyao I have been studying Pivot English for 8 years, building carbon fiber shafts for Pivot English in the last two years. While I am nobody in the world of pool and will never be a pro in any way, I love the science of pool. I have extensive knowledge of Vibration Analysis and taught Vibration Analysis to Aircraft Technicians for many years. Plus I have been making and repairing cues for 40 years. My friend is also extremally intelligent and has degrees in math and an insane passion of pool science as well. Between the two of us we embarked on learning the science of Pivot English. To that end I truly believe we know more then is understood by the masses at this time. The big thing to take away from me is how important it is to know the exact behavior of your cue. What is not available online related to BHE (Pivot English) is where to bridge based on power and cue ball to object ball distance. If you bridge the right place on the cue, you time the return of the cue ball to the shot line center line at the same time it contacts the object ball at the exact point of aim. By doing this you can aim straight thru the cue ball center to the contact point of the object ball, then freeze the bridge, pivot to the desired spin and fire the shot dead true. Deflection will throw the cue ball off the center line and swerve will bring it back exactly where and when you need to be. Amazing. The proper bridge location is what the world is missing when you try to learn BHE online. This does not seem to be known outside my friend and I, it is not knowledge you can find anywhere. Presently players are practicing with their own comfortable bridge points and trying to make BHE work. In the same way practice can make Parallel English work, they make BHE work to some extent. I have asked many that have put out videos on BHE why they bridge where they do and only ever get the same answer. It is where they like to bridge and do not show real knowledge of the cues true behavior and bridging based on that pivot behavior. Without the knowledge of the cue's vibrational behavior and where to bridge so the deflection and swerve cancels out to return the cue ball to the center of the aim line upon contact with object ball, you are simply learning BHE the same as how we all learned Parrallel English. I have marked my cue with colored dots that represent cue ball to object ball distances of "two and four diamonds hard speed, center and bottom spin", "two and four diamonds medium speed, center and bottom spin" and "two and four diamonds top spin". Still working on soft because soft can be lacking deflection at all which makes it difficult but since there is usually little distance involved it is not as important. Once you truly understand your cue, Pivot English allows for amazing cue ball control on any shot with unrivalled accuracy and English to control the cue balls destination for the next shot with an amazing amount of spin and control. Remember that long pivot point low deflection shafts such as Predator 19 inch Shafts are not the right shafts for Pivot English. They are excellent shafts for Parallel English just not for Pivot English.
@@Soniccues in your experience, how do you manufacture a carbon fiber shaft with a specific pivot point? Is it a question of where the foam mass should be?
*CARBON FIBER SO SOLID WHY DO YOU NEED A FERRULE? A TIP AND SPACER ADDS MORE DIRECT FEEL TO THE BALL??*
Because most people think that the lack of a white ferrule will affect their ability to quickly sight the point of aim while shooting. Makes no difference to me.
@@masonryman8183 If it doesn't affect you, then great. But it does affect A LOT of people....me included, reason being that the white actually shows up as a reflection in the cue ball when you're addressing close to the cue ball(that said, it probably wouldn't make a difference to people who don't address right up to within 2-3mm of the cueball.)
They aren't solid. they have foam on the inside
I hope your wearing a proper respirator when cutting
Away at the carbon fiber. If not you will
Regret even that minor of cutting your putting a
Good amount of airborn particles that’s could damage your lungs
I do. I have a respiratory. Thank you for your concern. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Great video, but I would be wearing a respirator when cutting carbon fibre because it is very toxic!
Thank you for the advice. I really do need a respiratory when cutting. Thank you for commenting.
OH PLEASE, A THOUSANDS OF AN INCH WILL NEVER MAKE IT TO YOUR LUNGS, PLUS THE DUDE USED A VACUUM
I couldn’t believe what I was watching! I finished the video out of morbid curiosity. That shaft will never play the same again. I guess if the customer doesn’t care about that then its a useful video. I have watched a couple of your videos when you use the lathe. I gotta tell you, this is not your expertise and is treated more like a hobby than a profession. I wouldn’t recommend anyone follow these methods.
The shaft surly doesn’t play the same. The customer loves it even more. No more rattle and the shaft feels more solid not hollow like before. The deflection is about the same. The G10 didn’t affect the deflection but what it did is get that hollow and feel sound out of the shaft. Also you are correct, pool and pool related things is a hobby to me and I don’t want it to be a profession. I’m retired and don’t really want to work anymore to include making pool cue and repairing pool cues. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Agreed the shaft should have been sent to jacoby. They could have repaired or
Replaced the shagt
He got the shaft second hand and he did not want to tell who did the work previously. I has to fix some of his other shaft because of posers trying to put on a tip. For some reason they think sanding the ferrule and the shaft is the correct way to trim down the tip. Thank you again for commenting.
𝘱𝘳𝘰𝘮𝘰𝘴𝘮 😞
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