thanks for the video. Great job in my opinion. will have to do this soon and needed all of your notes that you shared. I may take it to a shop still. lotta work and to many chances for me to mess it up. lol
You did a very good job. Re-watching you, I had skipped around and almost missed a very important point. I was wondering what those tabs at the back were for and how the headliner would be secured there... this was such an important piece of info. I am grateful to you for this catch. I like to show things I've learned and have 500 hours more of videos to post eventually. Sorry I can't link my channel, and in trying to do so removed my previous comment.
Thanks, I tend to go into detail on things I’ve not seen others mention and gloss over the regular stuff. I post my mistakes and what I learned from it. It’s been an interesting journey.
Great job, and don't call me Shirley. Looking good Don, headliners are a real challenge but as you mentioned it will tighten up once it heats up and yes OEM means nothing today,
Thanks Wally, maybe I should file a complaint with the supplier if I thought it would do any good. The thought of having to do it again doesn’t thrill me.
@@donsmanufactory let it settle first. I too had many "issues" that initially were unacceptable but we cannot focus on these. Standing back I realized that for every issue I was fixated on there were hundreds of things that were wonderful. I now look at those, not the "issues"
Good job considering the challenge of a poorly made head liner. I just subscribed because you and I are so much alike doing our stangs. I have a 67, I also did my head liner myself and I am 63, here is my take on it. Use a dolly and hammer and straighten the pinch weld, plus grind the pinch weld before start so you don't have bumps and hang ups on the liner. touch up with primer. I would use dynamat or fatmat or something similar, apart from the heat it is the noise that you want to stop, the roof is like one big drum, it will effect even the doors opening and closing. My 67 has 2 wires at the rear window that pulls all the rods back keeping tension but my sail panels were like yours with the hooks and what looked like hard board strips. I did not glue until I had it all up and trimmed before I glued, I did this by pulling evenly side to side and front to back until all wrinkles were gone. As I worked the liner I held it in place by using short pieces of old windlace on the pinch welds, the windlace mimic the glue, when happy glue the pinch and liner bit by bit waiting for the contact glue to get tacky before sticking it and then replace the short windlace on the now glued liner edge and move on to the next short windlace until all done. This way you can move at your own pace and make adjustments as you go.You were correct about install all hardware in before installing liner, also lay the liner in the sun for a half an hour prior to doing job, it will soften the liner, remove creases and make the liner less unforgiving. I like a glue called Ados F2 contact glue, I brushed it on because you have more control, you can get in tube or can. www.tools.com/ados-f2-contact-adhesive-1x250ml-8008.html I hope this helps next time, I have to do mine again, body and paint and I am a New Zealander living in Neb USA, we are called Kiwi's.....cheers.
Thanks Craig, I chose not to use dynamat, killmat or similar because the roof gets so hot it will probably get soft and runny and end up pulling away and dropping on the headliner. Even the adhesive used on the insulator must be chosen for its high temp performance. I should test those butyl products at 150* F for their performance.
I did of the rear glass but the windshield is still out. Won’t be installing that until after paint. See rear glass here. th-cam.com/video/stCuvdY8Llk/w-d-xo.html
Great Job! I have watched Kiwi’s vids and between the two of you I think I’ve got it. However, where did you get your jute? I think I’ll use it even with your concerns. I can’t find some similar to what was on it. Thx
Here is the info for what I bought. Second skin audio - Heat Wave Pro™ - Jute Thermal Insulation 27 Reviews Choose Sheets: 24 Sq ft (1 Sheet) 72 Sq Ft (3 Sheets) Save 14% 120 Sq Ft (5 Sheets) Save 17% Current Stock: $79.99 www.secondskinaudio.com/heat-insulation/heat-wave-pro?sku=HWPR-72-3/8-4x6
A small stir stick would be about right. Ones they give out for gallon can size. I made mine out of fir slightly thicker than a stir stick. Oak would be better. Just make sure it fits down in that space under the metal tabs.
I did the head liner on my 68 chevelle many years ago. I still looks good . Used a year one kit ,and it was a pain in the ass .. do you know anyone that may have a set of gt40 heads at a reasonable price. My 66 hp heads needs more work than it's worth.
thanks for the video. Great job in my opinion. will have to do this soon and needed all of your notes that you shared. I may take it to a shop still. lotta work and to many chances for me to mess it up. lol
You are very welcome
It is a lot of work and there are different ways of doing it.
You did a very good job. Re-watching you, I had skipped around and almost missed a very important point. I was wondering what those tabs at the back were for and how the headliner would be secured there... this was such an important piece of info. I am grateful to you for this catch. I like to show things I've learned and have 500 hours more of videos to post eventually. Sorry I can't link my channel, and in trying to do so removed my previous comment.
Thanks, I tend to go into detail on things I’ve not seen others mention and gloss over the regular stuff. I post my mistakes and what I learned from it. It’s been an interesting journey.
Great job, and don't call me Shirley. Looking good Don, headliners are a real challenge but as you mentioned it will tighten up once it heats up and yes OEM means nothing today,
Thanks Wally, maybe I should file a complaint with the supplier if I thought it would do any good. The thought of having to do it again doesn’t thrill me.
@@donsmanufactory let it settle first. I too had many "issues" that initially were unacceptable but we cannot focus on these. Standing back I realized that for every issue I was fixated on there were hundreds of things that were wonderful. I now look at those, not the "issues"
Good job considering the challenge of a poorly made head liner. I just subscribed because you and I are so much alike doing our stangs. I have a 67, I also did my head liner myself and I am 63, here is my take on it.
Use a dolly and hammer and straighten the pinch weld, plus grind the pinch weld before start so you don't have bumps and hang ups on the liner. touch up with primer.
I would use dynamat or fatmat or something similar, apart from the heat it is the noise that you want to stop, the roof is like one big drum, it will effect even the doors opening and closing. My 67 has 2 wires at the rear window that pulls all the rods back keeping tension but my sail panels were like yours with the hooks and what looked like hard board strips.
I did not glue until I had it all up and trimmed before I glued, I did this by pulling evenly side to side and front to back until all wrinkles were gone. As I worked the liner I held it in place by using short pieces of old windlace on the pinch welds, the windlace mimic the glue, when happy glue the pinch and liner bit by bit waiting for the contact glue to get tacky before sticking it and then replace the short windlace on the now glued liner edge and move on to the next short windlace until all done.
This way you can move at your own pace and make adjustments as you go.You were correct about install all hardware in before installing liner, also lay the liner in the sun for a half an hour prior to doing job, it will soften the liner, remove creases and make the liner less unforgiving. I like a glue called Ados F2 contact glue, I brushed it on because you have more control, you can get in tube or can. www.tools.com/ados-f2-contact-adhesive-1x250ml-8008.html
I hope this helps next time, I have to do mine again, body and paint and I am a New Zealander living in Neb USA, we are called Kiwi's.....cheers.
Thanks Craig, I chose not to use dynamat, killmat or similar because the roof gets so hot it will probably get soft and runny and end up pulling away and dropping on the headliner. Even the adhesive used on the insulator must be chosen for its high temp performance. I should test those butyl products at 150* F for their performance.
Looks good to me. Did you make a video of reinstalling the front and back windows?
I did of the rear glass but the windshield is still out. Won’t be installing that until after paint.
See rear glass here. th-cam.com/video/stCuvdY8Llk/w-d-xo.html
Great Job! I have watched Kiwi’s vids and between the two of you I think I’ve got it. However, where did you get your jute? I think I’ll use it even with your concerns. I can’t find some similar to what was on it. Thx
Here is the info for what I bought.
Second skin audio - Heat Wave Pro™ - Jute Thermal Insulation
27 Reviews
Choose Sheets:
24 Sq ft (1 Sheet)
72 Sq Ft (3 Sheets) Save 14%
120 Sq Ft (5 Sheets) Save 17%
Current Stock:
$79.99
www.secondskinaudio.com/heat-insulation/heat-wave-pro?sku=HWPR-72-3/8-4x6
Could you please give the approx dimensions of the two wooden sticks you made? I assume they were made from paint stir sticks?
A small stir stick would be about right. Ones they give out for gallon can size. I made mine out of fir slightly thicker than a stir stick. Oak would be better.
Just make sure it fits down in that space under the metal tabs.
@@donsmanufactory Thank You! This is my next project.
Hi does the front windshield have to be removed also?
Yes, the headliner is glued to the pinch weld.
@@donsmanufactory thank you
I did the head liner on my 68 chevelle many years ago. I still looks good . Used a year one kit ,and it was a pain in the ass .. do you know anyone that may have a set of gt40 heads at a reasonable price. My 66 hp heads needs more work than it's worth.
I do not, I haven’t looked here locally either. I have no idea how difficult they are to find.
@@donsmanufactory like hen s teeth.