Thank you for the vid, some good tips to make the job easier. Had to figure out how to back my brakes off since my truck apparently has some non typical adjusters but I’m back on the road.
Wow! It's so simple. Looking at it it was a bit intimidating since I've only ever done discs, but it's so much easier because everything is just bigger! Thank you for making this!
Just wanted to point out for new truck mechanics these shoes are ( Q-Plus ) . Standard (Q ) shoes have a raised dimple on the brake shoe webb . Good Video ! 90/23
When we do our brakes we replace the roller and bushing because the head mechanic is a fanatic to keep our breakdowns low. Anyways if you leave the bushings and roller in there you can leave the rollers with the retaining clips for last and do it the same way. Don't forget to release the parking brake and back off the slack adjusters. Good video though
There is a adjusting mechanism on the adjuster and you tighten it until the drum won't spin any more amd then you back off a half a turn. You will know you are doing it right when it start bitching at you
Watch this video for installing automatic slack Adjuster. He will show how to back off the slack in the video. th-cam.com/video/4qAfK-WBDFc/w-d-xo.html
Everything looks good ,with the shoe/lining replacement - however In my experience the old drum going back on is a mistake.Unless you measured the drum with the proper micrometer gauge, and found it was within service limits. on a typical 15.5" drum anything over by .090" should be replaced and anything from .120" is scrap and will not be legal. will result in a "high cam" and weak braking force and performance. Also drums are almost always cracked from excessive heat, so that is also scrap. In my opinion its worth the $90 for a new drum .
Agreed except Drums are $250-300 here in Canada because we don’t know how to control inflation apparently. So yeah good idea to change out only after you check with a micrometer. I agree on your measurements as well - replace anything over .090” worn but a note that .120” is not a DOT/CVSE mandate - rather its on the drum manufacturers wear spec (which yes is usually .120” from what I have seen).
Use the break adjuster, it’s one of two types of adjusters both are similar but one requires pulling and holding a pin to be able to adjust the breaks the other is wrench/ratchet only, tighten em down after the drum is in, then I do 3/4 turn loose
As a auto mechanic of 40 years my OCD is killing me watching this video. So you don’t need to clean the backing plate and lube up the contact points? Great video though
Thanks for the video great detail. I hadn't done this style of brake in a few years. Your video was a great refresher. Saved me a ton of time
Good 👍
Thanks! I have been fighting these for 2 days. Removing that roller really helped.
Great video my guy! Remember. Nothing is easy until ya get good at it. Your good.
Thank you for the vid, some good tips to make the job easier. Had to figure out how to back my brakes off since my truck apparently has some non typical adjusters but I’m back on the road.
Good work been awhile since I've done airbrakes nice refresher video and explanation through the process...Big Props to you Sir! 👏
Less is more and this video is the definition of that! Fantastic video helped heaps and a way easier way to get the job done 👍🏻
"Don't put your finger in here" lmao
very cool, helped alot! especially putting on the smaller springs and then inserting the pin. so much easier
Wow! It's so simple. Looking at it it was a bit intimidating since I've only ever done discs, but it's so much easier because everything is just bigger! Thank you for making this!
Good 👍
Glad it helped!
That was extremely good, Keep up. Thanks a lot
Wow what a great detail explanation. Thank you
Thank you. Saved me time and so much easier your way
Simple good old video. Thank you.
Just wanted to point out for new truck mechanics these shoes are ( Q-Plus ) . Standard (Q ) shoes have a raised dimple on the brake shoe webb . Good Video ! 90/23
Very helpful to me to identify the components for pre-trip inspection for cdl license test.
Thank you for that last tip with putting the orange springs on first and then prying down the bottom shoe to get the roller in.
Glad to help!
Wonderful video. Thanks man
Thank you And please post more videos like how to replace air bags, chambers, etc
Thank you sir, excellent video.
Thanks bro. Going to save some money.
Thank you for the upload
Great job and detailed
When we do our brakes we replace the roller and bushing because the head mechanic is a fanatic to keep our breakdowns low. Anyways if you leave the bushings and roller in there you can leave the rollers with the retaining clips for last and do it the same way. Don't forget to release the parking brake and back off the slack adjusters. Good video though
Excelente gracias por tu enseñanza.
Thanks again good work to see
That's a good idea. Thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍
Great video
Very informative Sir! Thank you for sharing! Do you remember which truck model year this was?
Thanks dear you did good job 👏🏽
Great video, thanks
Excelente video muy bien esplicado 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Great video thanks 😊
Thank you! Well done!!!
Awesome video
Thanks to the tips mister .
Great job 🤙
Best quality shoe good work
Good job man.
Good video, indeed. Thank you!
Thank you for this!
Thank for you video... a embrace of chile.
Spot on video
Nice video 👍
Awesome bro.
Very nice bro 😀
It's nice to learning our videos thankful
Nice info... good sharing...
Very nice detailed The only thing I do different is clean. You break Shield off. Get the grease and dust off. Helps Parts last longer
i was thinking about that too, but you know, lot of services are saving money with that, no cleaning staff no problem :D
Thank you so much.
Good Job I like it
You saved my butt thank you.
Excellent
Thank you very much
Well explained sir
Thank you.
Can some grees use in rollers.
Honestly l, these brakes are way easier than a lot of cars today lol. Shocked me when i worked at the school district
Só e mais pesado o servico
@@claudionapoleaoferreira6741 difficult in terms of weight? Yes. But the simplicity is a lot easier. At least I think so
Concordo com você e mais simples sim.
@@claudionapoleaoferreira6741 ah gotcha
Apply copper grease on contact points of the shoes .and cams .save wear on backing plate
Nice one
Thanks!
Saturday job for me thanks
Thx!
Excelente
I like it Picasso
No grease?
When we change the Wheel drum we should clean it and put new one
Do you release the air brakes and the slack adjuster before u take the drum off?
Yes. Make sure to chock the wheels. And use a jack stand.
why didn't you replace the drum too?!
Ainda bem que o retentor de roda nao ta vasando.
Good
you made no mention of the big split in the inside tire sidewall , so are we to assume you just put it back on the truck inquiring minds want to know
Good eye
👍👍👍
good
Hola si entiendo lok comentas pork me dedico alos frenos de haire pero pero podrias relatarlo en español saludos desde toluca mexico
How do you back out the auto slack adjusters??
There is a adjusting mechanism on the adjuster and you tighten it until the drum won't spin any more amd then you back off a half a turn. You will know you are doing it right when it start bitching at you
Watch this video for installing automatic slack Adjuster. He will show how to back off the slack in the video. th-cam.com/video/4qAfK-WBDFc/w-d-xo.html
Everything looks good ,with the shoe/lining replacement - however In my experience the old drum going back on is a mistake.Unless you measured the drum with the proper micrometer gauge, and found it was within service limits. on a typical 15.5" drum anything over by .090" should be replaced and anything from .120" is scrap and will not be legal. will result in a "high cam" and weak braking force and performance. Also drums are almost always cracked from excessive heat, so that is also scrap. In my opinion its worth the $90 for a new drum .
Agreed except Drums are $250-300 here in Canada because we don’t know how to control inflation apparently. So yeah good idea to change out only after you check with a micrometer. I agree on your measurements as well - replace anything over .090” worn but a note that .120” is not a DOT/CVSE mandate - rather its on the drum manufacturers wear spec (which yes is usually .120” from what I have seen).
How do u determine the drum is too thin? My drums feel worn..
If there's a 3mm lip on the drum I'd say change it. I believe there's a wear mark on the drum opening also.
The maximum inner diameter should be stamped on the drum
Thank you, brother. Blooouugghd-clot!
You don’t adjust them after putting everything back what about when the drum won’t go in
Use the break adjuster, it’s one of two types of adjusters both are similar but one requires pulling and holding a pin to be able to adjust the breaks the other is wrench/ratchet only, tighten em down after the drum is in, then I do 3/4 turn loose
U forgot to show . How to release the adjuster and adjust the new ones . Closer to the drum
Whats the brand of that truck?
International Truck. I don't remember the year.
As a auto mechanic of 40 years my OCD is killing me watching this video. So you don’t need to clean the backing plate and lube up the contact points? Great video though
Pin sahi se nahi laga hai brake khul jayega
Is must a Jamaican this.
Slvp Edem mw seyon bòs mekaniyens Map Viv St Domenmg
No se quien te enseno a cambiar valatas y ni siquiera limpiar el polvo que trabajo tan susio
GOOD jOB!!!.....qUICK!!
hello R A DISEAL TECH , WE ARE LEADING MANUFACTURER OF THIS BREAK KIT COULD YOU PLS HELP ME TO SELL THIS PRODUCT IN YOUR COUNTRY
those pins and springs are a pain in the butt
Bom para machucar os dedos .
Your inside tire is “zipper ripped” this is very dangerous and needs replacement.
Chinese brake drum manufacturers
Too easy, I could do that for my husband.
need a scare crow lol fn birds
Not a good video bud. You didn't mention releasing the parking brake or backing off the slack. Or even adjusting the brakes after
Thanks for your input, and comment.