I'm a tech and I love watching your vids. I usually catch something new that I didnt know with each video. I actually had a you moment yesterday. Customer gun comes in and he said that he wasnt getting any power. He said the bbs basically fell out of the barrel and it was making a hell of a noise. He tried to do his own tech work... the shimming was..... bad... but the worst part... he has a ported cylinder. And put the cylinder on backwards.... it took me a minute of staring at this gearbox to make sure I wasnt hallucinating... took me 4 hours to correct everything but I've got him a great shooter now
@@Bertymcbertface i started a year ago fiddling with gearboxes, the more i work on them the more i realise i know jack shit, i love this channel beacuse is down to earth and is pure information
@@Chronepsis fo real. I'm pretty much brand new to teching and the more experience I get, the more I learn from these videos. I re-watch them constantly.
Ohms law my dear boy. Smaller diameter cable then you get more resistance more resistance and you get more heat more heat you get more resistance then bang. Larger cable diameter higher current or potential difference less ristance and less heat. Its the basis of all electrical engineering V/I,R
rodney trotter Power: W = I^2 * R. Double the current, produce four times the energy. (W = V * I, V = I * R, thus W = [I * R] * I, or W = I^2 * R. Yeah, turns out algebra can be useful...) LiPo batteries push more current because their internal resistance is lower: V = I * R, so reduce R and I increases. Then apply the I^2 * R. Or the shortcut: V^2 / R. So if you have a very good gun with nice big, low resistance, wiring and a good low resistance MOSFET instead of a mechanical trigger - swap out a NiMH battery for a LiPo near the same voltage, and you’re going to be pushing a lot more current through.
Love your honesty, im new to this and my gun broke before i put a bb through it but i fixed it myself with the help of TH-camrs like you, keep it going
As someone trying to get into the sport, this was probably the best (most useful, informative, AND entertaining) airsoft video I've seen so far, cheers.
Hey Negative Airsoft, can you please do an in depth video on GBB pistol care, cleaning, tuning, what parts to upgrade when they break, what parts to just replace, how to take care of mags, etc. Not a lot, if any, people on TH-cam that know as much about GBB pistols as you. Would definitely appreciate it! I have been teching AEG's for 5 years now but just getting into GBB pistols and want to learn.
I take the Oddball approach to most things... "What's happening?" "Well the tanks broke and they're trying to fix it" "Well why aren't you helping them?" "Hey baby I only ride in em, I don't know how they work"
I am not a tech, but I modified my own airsoft replicas (and my friends´ guns too). I never get tired of your comments and tips. Probably i miss some parts (english is not my native language), but I appreciate your work and your time making these videos. Thank you mate.
I can do the most basic tech work, but seeing you do tech + listening to your explanation (including the swearing, I do too when I see shit fails) really helps me to improve. Totally would recommend your vids to anyone who wants to learn stuff.
Loved the video... and I agree with you... About the wires gauge, you're right... from bigger to smaller you'll get resistance, and that makes them go hot AF.
Love how you pointed out the problems for different situations you could have with your AEG. If you want to I’d love the same style of video but in a GBB version that’d be very interesting, I recently got into the world of GBBRs and I’d love to learn from a experienced individual like yourself. Btw love the content and brutal bluntness
Another super vid 👍 When I started airsoft, , I bought second hand guns, took them apart straight away and reverse engineered them when putting them back to learn what does what and how things work. Best way to learn. Now if something happens 99 percent of the time I can diagnose and fix it.
Bang on video other than the C-rating stuff, a circuit will only ever take the current it needs, it won't draw more current just because a battery or power supply is capable of delivering it
*and the stuff about wiring is absolutely right, the best analogy is plumbing - thinner wire = thinner pipes, the most you squeeze through a tiny pipe the more pressure you're going to build, ie the more heat you'll generate in a wire through energy loss. This is why wiring has an amperage rating! :)
Aye, have seen this being alluded to a lot. It doesn't make any difference whether you have a 20c or 10c attached to it, the motor will draw what it draws. The RPM of the motor is less on the smaller battery because the Lipo cannot keep up with the amp draw and the voltage is sagging. If it draws more than the battery is capable of, the battery will overheat and explode. The danger of telling people to use smaller lipos is enormous, would rather have a warm motor than a stock full of battery fire because the lipo is struggling rather than the motor. Also, motors will give out heat if drastically overgeared OR drastically undergeared. You are not supposed to free run a motor like in this video, it will burn up just like if it was overgeared. Love this channel for gun care and instruction, but this misrepresentation of battery safety has got to stop. IT IS DANGEROUS.
This is my understanding, *Generally*, a NiMh battery may be a higher voltage but can't supply as many Amps as a LiPo. LiPo's store far much more energy for the same weight. If you allow a motor to draw current from the battery, a LiPo will just supply all that it can, damaging the motor and the LiPo. This happens with the NiMh, but slower. 19:24 , the wires will heat up, if enough current is essentially "forced" into the thinner wires, they can straight up melt the insulation, possibly shorting the wires, leading to a battery fire. And yikes, that manually clogging hurt
Not quite. A lipo will TRY to supply the current demand, even if it can't, which damages the cells. A nimh will go; "yeah, that the limit mate, no more coming". And they don't get damaged. Unless you keep pulling the trigger through a jam. As to current, it's just this equation: (Mah*Burst c rating)/1000. I've got a 500 mah lipo with a 20c burst rating. Capable of 100 amps burst. Better than a lipo rated at 600mah with a 20c burst.
Hey man i just wanted to say that u are a huge inspiration for me im so happy that u excist u say exactly how it is straight to the point no nagging and whining about brands and whatever. You are honest and thats exactly what i wanted from a youtuber
This is the first tech video I saw before getting into airsoft around 2 years ago, I believe it's saved me a lot of trouble knowing some simple dos and don'ts. Greatly appreciate your work.
your example with the hop rubber, and you skimming a bb across your wrist explained that really well to me. I'm 100% gonna work on maintaining my guns better after this, I need to learn how my guns work, and get over the fear of opening them up and something going wrong
I would love to see you do a gun maintenance guide, what should be done after every skirmish etc to help prevent this stuff from happening. There is a lot of disagreement online about it and i would love to get a techs point of view on it.
im glad I found you. I've been getting into airsoft for about 6 months now and been watching the videos you are talking about. I just want my gun to run smoothly instead of jamming out of the box.
Had the rubber, balls and lube talk with my misses, never specified to hop up or AEG... All see did was stare at me like im a nutjob... I enjoyed every second of it. Long but great video mate. Keep it up.
I went back to hpa because it has faster trigger response than any high speed AEG I've ever owned while being 100 times more reliable but it does require alot of cleaning and lubing because there are way more o-rings in a drop in hpa engine
@@isaacshively6705 The thing that turns me away from HPA the most is The air line and a tank. Even the ones that go into stock kinda ruing the looks for me. But damn I wish there were systems that can fit into the gun completely.
I’m used to real firearms, but was thinking of getting an air soft gun for training. I’m definitely leaning more towards gbb now. I know it’s gonna be pricey, but it’s not cheap to fire real guns either.
I think the hardest part of getting into airsoft is getting advice on a starting loadout because asking for advice from anyone you’re not close with will act like they’re superior to you or tell you to google it which will lead to jargon no one new will understand
Your absolutely correct when you say there is more resistance in smaller wiring. The perfect example is in residential housing, you run 14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuits and run 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits. The 12 gauge is the larger line.
Its worth noting when it comes to wires, connectors and heat, mini Tamiya's are only actually rated for about 10amp max and when you consider even a fairly mediocre NiMH can put out more than that, and even the lower power lipos do twice that, they just don't cut it Tamiya connectors are a relic from a time when AEG's ran 800mAh NiCad's.
Side note. BEST starter video for folks who don't know the terms and terminology. Epic video. You have a place I can pay???? Cause this information is worth gold!!!!
Right...Electrician here.... "C" Rating is the rating that the batteries maximum discharge rate is example: 1100mah 30C that would be 1.1Amps x 30C = 33Amps Now your motor to draw all the way to 30C batteries limit it has to be 366Watts on 11.1V (i dought that it is so much) that goes this way 33Amps x 11.1Volts you get the maximum Watts which is 366w In this setups there are two limit factors you need to worry about, Battery it simply can't give more then 30C and motor it can draw (watts) only so much... now on a motor the higher the voltage, it overcomes easier the internal resistance of the motor, the less the amp draw so the faster the motor spins... voltage=force, Amps=force that actually makes its in, and resistant=what tries to limit both... wire size its complicated.. but usually the bigger it is, the better. It doesn't have to be the same size wires like the batteries have, these are designed to withstand numerous applications. For 33Amps you need 10mm wire which none of the equipment uses, that's due total length of the wire, and the time that was designed to go through them... Motor is getting hot due to physics any time you convert an energy to an other type of energy (chemical to electricity, electricity to mechanic, etc) it has loses in heat. Also the more force you apply the more resistance it has (because friction is a factor that squares on the force applied) the more total energy you get the more heat will loose..
so i dont know anything about electrical engineering or formulas or anything, but ive been racing RC cars for decades. RC racing was pretty much the first hobby that popularized Lipo batteries, so ive been using them for a VERY long time. generally, the idea in RC racing is, electricity doesnt push, it pulls. when it comes to motor heat, its not because the battery is pushing too much amps, its because the motor is pulling either not enough or too much. hot motor in RC is usually gearing (load) because NiHM or NiCD could never have enough amps to make a motor hot. if your high C rated 11.1v lipo makes your motor hot, id say the motor wasnt designed for that powerful of a battery and its pulling way more amps than it was designed for. now, in a reverse situation where a motor tries to pull more amps or C or even voltage than a battery can deliver, the battery gets hot. so when i build airsoft guns i use the same mindset. you can either balance your voltage with your amps or balance your amps with your voltage. i.e 7.4v 120C will run similar to an 11.1v 25C. a motor running optimally on its idea voltage/amps SHOULD get warm to the touch but not hot. in RC cars, the 550 motors are designed for running 7.2v (or 7.4v these days for lipo) so running a high volt battery will make the motor run hotter period. unless you reduce the amperage so much that the voltage trickles through. and if you run less voltage your battery will get toasted. RC cars are very clear in the labeling as to what they can handle and im not sure why airsoft motors arent. but generally, as long as you are in the voltage window, C doesnt matter. i got a 5000Mah 30C battery and a 5000Mah 150C battery for my RC car. they both run about the same except that the 150C has a bit more punch because it can deliver more power when the motor demands it. the higher the C the better. now we are also talking about brushless so these motors have no limit, the more you feed the faster you go. but brushed motors will keep demanding more and more, even past what they can handle, and thats what makes them hot. you can run a high C battery in an airsoft gun, just dont expect a cheapy motor to last long. you can either get a better quality motor OR, change the gearing in your gun to reduce the load on the motor. heavier springs will also make it run hotter. i imagine the load on these little brushed motors are a LOT heavier than an RC car because of the gears and the spring tension. if motor heat is an issue, first thing id do is get a high quality high torque motor to handle the job at hand. if it still gets hot, id consider a high torque gear ratio. but C rating shouldnt really be a factor.
as the motor heats up it draws more power from the wiring as the wires are also heating up it cause's the metal in the wire to expand allowing more current through it which causes heat to in crease, with out active cooling the heat will increase until it reaches a break down point, either the wiring will melt solder joints, mosfet will fry or motor will seize, this is how i understand the inner workings. love the vids and look forward to them every week
Great video. Some explanations I would like to add: 1. As with ANY device - you have to love your stuff. Treat it with respect. Airsoft guns even more so, because they are kinda moody pieces of electro-mechanic hardware. 2. How hot your motor gets is also highly dependant on it's *effectiveness coefficient*. Which basically shows how many percent of the energy entering your motor is actually turned into turning your gearbox. The rest of the energy? It all goes to heat. That's how things work in the world. 3. Higher TPA motors tend to have higher efficiency and so they heat up less, generally, for the same amount of work done. 4. Spamming your trigger heats up the motor very effectively because at the startup motor draws around FIVE TIMES MORE ENERGY that during constant work. So, when you spam semi-auto you constantly make your motor experience those impulses, which heats it up fast. 5. If your wires get hot and your motor doesn't - that means you need thicker wires. Current ones are too thin for the power they are getting through, they are a limiting factor in the chain.
It amazes me how thin wires are on "LiPo rEaDy" guns. Even Titans ship with thin wires, you'd think for the price they could wire it with 16 gauge silicon wire to match the Lipo batteries we're hooking up to them. It's ridiculous, wire isn't that expensive and rewiring a gun is far more expensive and difficult for the average person than swapping out parts.
Great info. I'm totally new (only played 2 game days) and this is a big help. I have a G&G Raider L 2.0 E and enjoy it. Now I can try to help make it last longer.
I was wondering why my parents always hated it when I kept flipping the light switch... All these years I thought it was just because they got annoyed and nothing else
Pro tech here... only a few years in.. gotta say I agree with many things here - also I learned quite a few things as well. Lots of valuable knowledge for the novice airsoft technician.
My first AEG was a SRC M4 Dragon. Really cheap £60, really good for a few months until it broke. I learned a lot from that gun. How to take it apart, strip threads, break plastic tabs and more. That was 10 years ago and just recently I got it back working again. As NA says - look after it and it will keep firing or a bit longer before it breaks again 😎
Think you could put together a video on plastic vs metal parts or specific types of plastic and metal? Perhaps just regarding internals, but could apply the concept to the entire gun as well. I loved your bit about metal vs plastic piston teeth. Thanks for being a great example and displaying all that you do. Carry on mate.
The thing I have to explain to people the most is how there is a time and place for different materials. Having a full metal piston tooth rack is so unnecessary in most cases and many times a liability. Also appreciated the test motor apparatus and electrical bit. I took a class for it in high school, but have since lost the knowledge. I'll study up and try to get it right for when I come out with some videos.
Talking about gauge of wire (19:00) Thinner wires (gearbox to connector) have more resistance than thick ones (typically connector to the battery) - look at a fuse as an example, the fuse (a thin wire in a casing) will pop if it gets too much power or a sudden burst. So while the wires going to the gearbox are thinner, OEMs for AEGs typically use silver wire in the gearbox to try and lower that resistance (shocking, but gold and copper is not the best conductor of electricity as most people think it is - its just silver is bloody expensive compared to those).
Gold is good for contacts, because it doesn't get any kind of oxidation (not sure if I use the right term, English is not my main language). So it maintains better contact between connectors.
With wire gauge you can think about it like water pipes. you can have a thick pipe lead into a thin pipe with a steady water flow/pressure that the smaller pipe can handle. As soon as you increase water flow/pressure to what the bigger pipe can handle as you mentioned it creates a chocking point. If this goes on for too long then the pipe will burst. Now convert this to electrical. Big wire into little wire fine with low wattage. But if you pump the wattage that the bigger wire candle handle you get a chock again only with wire this is heat. The smaller wire will melt, burn or even cause fires.
Wow, I've just found this hidden gem (after Ares B&T APC9 clip showing how bad it is). Actually, this is very educating for all airsofters in terms of preventive maintenance.
luke ..wire covering doesnt necessarily mean that the guage of wire is bigger, but its usually a correct assumption. If you plug in a battery with larger guage wire into smaller guage wiring- to your point, your trying to shove juice from a garden hose through a straw and you will get resistance at the thinner wire side causing heat. so lipo conversion means changing out ALL of the wiring in the gun to a larger guage of wire and using better connectors like deans. If you have a gate titan or internal fet youd have to change the wiring from the fet to the motor as well thereby voiding your warranty- yet another argument for using warfets instead of internal fets. Personally, Ive found that I get just as good performance out of a 7.4 using an internal fet as long as gearing and such is set to the speed I want. I rely on mechanics rather than electronics to give me trigger response. This is a hard lesson for most to learn.
As far as mark up. I worked for a retail company that did a 200% markup and they sold the super cheap mainly plastic airsoft... so if the marked a $50 gun up to $250, just imagine how little it cost to make.
The voltage of the battery is directly proportional to the rotational speed of the motor, or the rate of fire. Amps that can be drawn from the battery are derived from the C and mAh rating, amps = C * mAh/1000. A fully charged 11.1v LiPo will do 1.5x the ROF of a 7.4v lipo given they have the same C and mAh. Compared to NiMH batteries, LiPos in use will lose voltage fast initially, stay at the same voltage for a long time then drop off. The reason the smaller LiPo is not as fast and doesn't heat up the motor as much is because it is either not fully charged (and therefore less voltage) or it cant supply enough amps for the motor to pull the spring in a given timeframe. If motor is drawing more current than the battery can supply safely, this is bad for the battery! The only reason they don't explode is because they have a discharge regulating circuit in the battery covering (at least I hope most do). The reason a 7.4v LiPo will not heat up the motor as much is because it will be running the motor at a lower speed and therefore do less spring pulls a second and therefore less work.
Nice video. And a little side note, for not letting bb go forward and backwards. I first saw it on sniper, they'v made a bed for bb on their entry point in hop camera. In short, hole inside hop camera.
My Krytac LMG wobbles like that too from the back. I think it's made on the original body. The MK2s or whatever the newer ones I have are don't wobble and are quite tight on that back lip.
I have had my guns for years too (over 10) and have never had problems. Even bought guns that were said to be broken, and they have worked perfectly right out of the box.
When you stopped up the nozzle and held the trigget was the most painful cringey thing I have ever experienced. I was just begging for it to end. Poor poor rifle.
So what I can see from this if you are just starting out use the gun till it breaks then start upgrading vs. buying one and spending the same amount of money to upgrade right out of the box
I wonder why manufacturers haven't started using more CNC stepper motor style motors for airsoft, as pretty much every site allows semi auto but some don't allow full. It makes more sense to build the guns primarily for semi instead of auto
damnnn man i bought a GandG broken because it had a mosfet issue and bought a gate titan, listened to someone to get a metal piston and now i dont know wether to change it or not
Hi Negative airsoft! This video is awesome (like all the vids you do!) I’ve found myself answering two different airsoft peoples issue questions after watching this vid! And told them to watch it too!
If the wires get thinner the resistance increases, that would cause heat loss. That's why the wires in a fuse are thin, so that if the current is too high, the heat will melt it
This pretty much answers my earlier Krytac question on another one of your videos... Don't fuck with it until it breaks, even tho it sounds really squeaky and whiny.
Regarding the wire diameter, too small wires will create heat which will melt the wires and could lead to short circuits. For airsoft purposes a 2 mm2 wire will be enough even if the continuous discharge rate is a little high for that gauge due to the fact that you usually only run the motor for a few seconds at a time.
First time I fired my AEG at an event I was firing semi auto but listening to make sure it was fully cycling every trigger pull. When full auto I was firing 3-6 round bursts, I use midcap mags because i don't like the idea of having to wind the mag on but it has a side effect of making me think about ammunition use... I HAVE to think about how much I fire and not fire the long bursts you mention in the video. Maybe that's a good thing? Also Mid caps have no winding mechanism inside... less parts = more reliable?
And thats why I prefer GBB. Easy to maintain and not much in there that can break. The only reason I have AEG's is because I like how they look and I need something to run during the colder season.
Loving your spot on logic to airsoft guns. I'm guilty of reading a lot of airsoft "tips" and believing people on the internet without any evidence to provide its true. By watching your videos I see your experience as you breeze through issues I struggle with. You have saved me a few quid on pointless upgrades/modifications. Any tips to reduce travel on a P90 trigger?
I enjoy watching your videos because I enjoy figuring out how things work, im new to airsoft (only played a few games)got a second hand f&n hestral spr5, no air seal, screws that belong in a stripper club, but I'm enjoying the challenge of making it work and your videos are helping me understand a lot more than if I was doing it blind, also love the music and I have a nurprol ak and it's not let me down yet because I'm not a cunt with it and it shoots further and more accurately than the bloody sniper XD I know this is probably redundant but keep up the good work coz you always get a laugh out of me
Putting the BB across your forearm, and the resulting hematoma, looks painful, but then I remember this is the man that put a drill bit THROUGH his hand in another video and kept working, not to mention the countless cuts and stabs I've seen in these videos. I'm guessing that BB welt barely registered. 😂 And, I must say, as a leather worker with more scars on my hands and fingers than I can count, I love a person willing to suffer for their craft. Salute, sir! 🫡
im sure someone has said already but about the large wire into the smaller wire, the larger wire has less resistance than the smaller wire so the smaller wire restricts the flow of electrons (current) more. think of it like this: in a water pipe system, current is the water, voltage is the pressure pushing the water and resistance is the size of the pipe. if you have a big pipe that goes into a small pipe, less water is being moved through that area of pipe at that time than in the larger pipe, so the resistance has reduced the current. another way you can picture this is that trick of taking chewing gum wrapper cutting it into a bowtie shape and putting either end on the ends of a AA battery. the thinnest point burns while the thicker areas just carry the electricity and dont burn. here the resistance at that narrow point is too much for the current moving through it with such "pressure" (voltage) behind it. imagine if you had a city power line on 2 sides connected with a 2mm wire, it will burn up. hope those explanations kinda put into perspective what happens when a large wire goes to a smaller wire, in short the resistance is increased.
thanks mate, got my first gun last week and the motor was getting hot so i just got a new motor and it was not getting hot anymore its a old apex r series cant find any info on it but there are a lot of problems with it so your videos help me fix it and build it to how i want it, i was wondering what the main things i should replace and upgrade for range and accuracy?
Hey man, just be careful with using the exterior dimensions to determine gauge of the wire... not all wire gauges use the same thickness sleeves so it isn't a very reliable way to determine if one set of wires is "better" or not. And someone else answered the question already, but thicker copper wires = less resistance over the length of the wire.
If one thinks "i don't need to watch such vids, because i know everything, nahaw naw nahw🤓", This one is most probably a victim of the dunning kruger effect. P.S. Like your background music. I like it that much, thad i even needed some Time to realise, that it isn't Spotify Playing in the Background😅
If you checked the voltage of both batteries when plugged in to the motor, the lipo voltage will be higher. Lipos sag less in general, thats what the c rating is all about. A bigger battery with the same voltage will only create more wear or heat because if all else is the same, the bigger battery will sag less. Voltage ÷ resistance = current. Higher the voltage, higher the current, higher the heat generated.
They may not last forever, but at least they last for sumthin nowadays. CYMA isnt 'high toys' or the winding sound of stripped gears after a week or less like the pizza would be free after 7 days or sum, but i remember when cyma could only make springers til they made a hit with the AK Beta
My father and I tech all of our team’s guns and honestly this video is what we preach to people. The only thing that was cringe is saying energy is created, energy is only transferred not created or destroyed. But that’s just me being picky. Great video btw and yes SRC is absolute garbage
It's true that the energy will funnel in the thinner wire, but I guess on this scale it does not matter so much as long as the motor does not constantly spin like in the test motor.
Probably been answered already but the C rating refers to the discharge rate of the battery a 1000 mah battery with 1 c discharge can output 1 amp theoretically at max. a 20 c 1000 mah battery can output 20 amps. This applies to batteries of all voltages
I f... hate you Luke for not puting a track list in the video description. Btw. you showed me a new retro wave and f.. me .... you have good taste man. Great video , helped me understand some new shit and take a shit also.
I'm a tech and I love watching your vids. I usually catch something new that I didnt know with each video. I actually had a you moment yesterday. Customer gun comes in and he said that he wasnt getting any power. He said the bbs basically fell out of the barrel and it was making a hell of a noise. He tried to do his own tech work... the shimming was..... bad... but the worst part... he has a ported cylinder. And put the cylinder on backwards.... it took me a minute of staring at this gearbox to make sure I wasnt hallucinating... took me 4 hours to correct everything but I've got him a great shooter now
Negative: If you really want to, you can break anything!
Me: Awesome! I'll start with... The economy!
Ahh yes a Democrat I assume
buy money for cheap and sell it again for more money, profit
Oh you at the bat
Lol.
im a tech. i will still watch all tech vids to see how they go about a problem
I learn new shit from others all the time
@@NegativeAirsoftTech indeed. no one is an expert, because you can always learn new things
@@Bertymcbertface i started a year ago fiddling with gearboxes, the more i work on them the more i realise i know jack shit, i love this channel beacuse is down to earth and is pure information
@@Chronepsis fo real. I'm pretty much brand new to teching and the more experience I get, the more I learn from these videos. I re-watch them constantly.
this is how the real techs do it
Ohms law my dear boy. Smaller diameter cable then you get more resistance more resistance and you get more heat more heat you get more resistance then bang. Larger cable diameter higher current or potential difference less ristance and less heat. Its the basis of all electrical engineering V/I,R
Nice one Dave
Not to mention less resistance with DC circuits over distance with a larger cable core diameter.
Yep, but don't forget the inrush current which can be as much as 2-3 times than steady state current. More current, more dissipation.
That too.
rodney trotter
Power: W = I^2 * R. Double the current, produce four times the energy. (W = V * I, V = I * R, thus W = [I * R] * I, or W = I^2 * R. Yeah, turns out algebra can be useful...)
LiPo batteries push more current because their internal resistance is lower: V = I * R, so reduce R and I increases. Then apply the I^2 * R. Or the shortcut: V^2 / R.
So if you have a very good gun with nice big, low resistance, wiring and a good low resistance MOSFET instead of a mechanical trigger - swap out a NiMH battery for a LiPo near the same voltage, and you’re going to be pushing a lot more current through.
47 minutes to show noobs that you care, thanks ❤ ill do my best to learn how to maintain my guns from now on ✌
Love your honesty, im new to this and my gun broke before i put a bb through it but i fixed it myself with the help of TH-camrs like you, keep it going
As someone trying to get into the sport, this was probably the best (most useful, informative, AND entertaining) airsoft video I've seen so far, cheers.
Hey Negative Airsoft, can you please do an in depth video on GBB pistol care, cleaning, tuning, what parts to upgrade when they break, what parts to just replace, how to take care of mags, etc. Not a lot, if any, people on TH-cam that know as much about GBB pistols as you. Would definitely appreciate it!
I have been teching AEG's for 5 years now but just getting into GBB pistols and want to learn.
I'm loving the Cyberpunk music.
gobble pistons more then my ex wife gobbles !@#$ i about spit my food at the screen.
that made me laugh
Hahaha bro I literally sit down for dinner with this on my phone hahaha
was drinking coffee.... then i was "leaking" coffee .... out my nose ...
I take the Oddball approach to most things... "What's happening?" "Well the tanks broke and they're trying to fix it" "Well why aren't you helping them?" "Hey baby I only ride in em, I don't know how they work"
Good one just seen the movie the other day
I am not a tech, but I modified my own airsoft replicas (and my friends´ guns too). I never get tired of your comments and tips. Probably i miss some parts (english is not my native language), but I appreciate your work and your time making these videos. Thank you mate.
More fiddly than you'd think. Best one liner I've heard.
Pure gold. He needs an award for that one.
I loved that double entendre lmao 😂 bravo,
i am not a noob at teching but you can never have too good of an understanding on the basics. Great work!
I can do the most basic tech work, but seeing you do tech + listening to your explanation (including the swearing, I do too when I see shit fails) really helps me to improve. Totally would recommend your vids to anyone who wants to learn stuff.
Loved the video... and I agree with you... About the wires gauge, you're right... from bigger to smaller you'll get resistance, and that makes them go hot AF.
Love how you pointed out the problems for different situations you could have with your AEG. If you want to I’d love the same style of video but in a GBB version that’d be very interesting, I recently got into the world of GBBRs and I’d love to learn from a experienced individual like yourself. Btw love the content and brutal bluntness
This should be mandatory watching for all Airsofters!!!
Another super vid 👍
When I started airsoft, , I bought second hand guns, took them apart straight away and reverse engineered them when putting them back to learn what does what and how things work. Best way to learn. Now if something happens 99 percent of the time I can diagnose and fix it.
Bang on video other than the C-rating stuff, a circuit will only ever take the current it needs, it won't draw more current just because a battery or power supply is capable of delivering it
*and the stuff about wiring is absolutely right, the best analogy is plumbing - thinner wire = thinner pipes, the most you squeeze through a tiny pipe the more pressure you're going to build, ie the more heat you'll generate in a wire through energy loss. This is why wiring has an amperage rating! :)
Aye, have seen this being alluded to a lot. It doesn't make any difference whether you have a 20c or 10c attached to it, the motor will draw what it draws. The RPM of the motor is less on the smaller battery because the Lipo cannot keep up with the amp draw and the voltage is sagging. If it draws more than the battery is capable of, the battery will overheat and explode. The danger of telling people to use smaller lipos is enormous, would rather have a warm motor than a stock full of battery fire because the lipo is struggling rather than the motor. Also, motors will give out heat if drastically overgeared OR drastically undergeared. You are not supposed to free run a motor like in this video, it will burn up just like if it was overgeared. Love this channel for gun care and instruction, but this misrepresentation of battery safety has got to stop. IT IS DANGEROUS.
This is my understanding,
*Generally*, a NiMh battery may be a higher voltage but can't supply as many Amps as a LiPo. LiPo's store far much more energy for the same weight. If you allow a motor to draw current from the battery, a LiPo will just supply all that it can, damaging the motor and the LiPo. This happens with the NiMh, but slower.
19:24 , the wires will heat up, if enough current is essentially "forced" into the thinner wires, they can straight up melt the insulation, possibly shorting the wires, leading to a battery fire.
And yikes, that manually clogging hurt
Not quite. A lipo will TRY to supply the current demand, even if it can't, which damages the cells. A nimh will go; "yeah, that the limit mate, no more coming". And they don't get damaged. Unless you keep pulling the trigger through a jam. As to current, it's just this equation: (Mah*Burst c rating)/1000. I've got a 500 mah lipo with a 20c burst rating. Capable of 100 amps burst. Better than a lipo rated at 600mah with a 20c burst.
Great video, this is definitely something both new players and "veteran beginners" should watch! Much appriciated :)
Hey man i just wanted to say that u are a huge inspiration for me im so happy that u excist u say exactly how it is straight to the point no nagging and whining about brands and whatever. You are honest and thats exactly what i wanted from a youtuber
Great video, clearly explaining how morons break guns. To sacrifice your own to make a point shows your dedication. Thanks for great content as ever
This is the first tech video I saw before getting into airsoft around 2 years ago, I believe it's saved me a lot of trouble knowing some simple dos and don'ts. Greatly appreciate your work.
your example with the hop rubber, and you skimming a bb across your wrist explained that really well to me. I'm 100% gonna work on maintaining my guns better after this, I need to learn how my guns work, and get over the fear of opening them up and something going wrong
29:37 I respect the commitment of self harm just to prove a point and hope that others do too
That was how we chronoed airsoft in the 90’s! Ha !
Shit was badass
And then ruined a perfectly good brand new airsoft gun! madness!
16:49 Well mate you drink Honey Perła XD Polish beer, cheers from Poland ;)
też to zauważyłem i mnie rozwialiło. Widać wszyscy serwisanci maja coś z alkoholików...
I think Perla is his favourite beer.@@grzegorzwoznica2059
No bullshit lies, brutal honesty, banter on point and informative channel and videos. Keep it up man 🙌🏻
The music culd go
I would love to see you do a gun maintenance guide, what should be done after every skirmish etc to help prevent this stuff from happening.
There is a lot of disagreement online about it and i would love to get a techs point of view on it.
im glad I found you. I've been getting into airsoft for about 6 months now and been watching the videos you are talking about. I just want my gun to run smoothly instead of jamming out of the box.
Had the rubber, balls and lube talk with my misses, never specified to hop up or AEG... All see did was stare at me like im a nutjob... I enjoyed every second of it.
Long but great video mate. Keep it up.
This felt like a 45 min commercial for HPA. I always learn alot from ya man.
I went back to hpa because it has faster trigger response than any high speed AEG I've ever owned while being 100 times more reliable but it does require alot of cleaning and lubing because there are way more o-rings in a drop in hpa engine
@@isaacshively6705 The thing that turns me away from HPA the most is The air line and a tank. Even the ones that go into stock kinda ruing the looks for me. But damn I wish there were systems that can fit into the gun completely.
@@yorhaunit8s co2 stock might be right up your alley. Need to swap bulbs fairly often but it's another option
I’m used to real firearms, but was thinking of getting an air soft gun for training. I’m definitely leaning more towards gbb now. I know it’s gonna be pricey, but it’s not cheap to fire real guns either.
Hey @@brian_b_music how'd that gas blow back gun do for your training?
I think the hardest part of getting into airsoft is getting advice on a starting loadout because asking for advice from anyone you’re not close with will act like they’re superior to you or tell you to google it which will lead to jargon no one new will understand
Your absolutely correct when you say there is more resistance in smaller wiring. The perfect example is in residential housing, you run 14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuits and run 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits. The 12 gauge is the larger line.
Damn! You made so menny good points. I'll recommend this video to every new player . You do great work here
Its worth noting when it comes to wires, connectors and heat, mini Tamiya's are only actually rated for about 10amp max
and when you consider even a fairly mediocre NiMH can put out more than that, and even the lower power lipos do twice that, they just don't cut it
Tamiya connectors are a relic from a time when AEG's ran 800mAh NiCad's.
Yeah, I'm gutted to need to move over.
Side note. BEST starter video for folks who don't know the terms and terminology. Epic video. You have a place I can pay???? Cause this information is worth gold!!!!
really good video, as a airsoft tech its great to see issues broken down like this for people to understand what can go wrong, very insightful !!
Right...Electrician here.... "C" Rating is the rating that the batteries maximum discharge rate is example: 1100mah 30C that would be 1.1Amps x 30C = 33Amps
Now your motor to draw all the way to 30C batteries limit it has to be 366Watts on 11.1V (i dought that it is so much)
that goes this way 33Amps x 11.1Volts you get the maximum Watts which is 366w
In this setups there are two limit factors you need to worry about, Battery it simply can't give more then 30C and motor it can draw (watts) only so much...
now on a motor the higher the voltage, it overcomes easier the internal resistance of the motor, the less the amp draw so the faster the motor spins...
voltage=force, Amps=force that actually makes its in, and resistant=what tries to limit both...
wire size its complicated.. but usually the bigger it is, the better. It doesn't have to be the same size wires like the batteries have, these are designed to withstand numerous applications.
For 33Amps you need 10mm wire which none of the equipment uses, that's due total length of the wire, and the time that was designed to go through them...
Motor is getting hot due to physics any time you convert an energy to an other type of energy (chemical to electricity, electricity to mechanic, etc) it has loses in heat. Also the more force you apply the more resistance it has (because friction is a factor that squares on the force applied) the more total energy you get the more heat will loose..
so i dont know anything about electrical engineering or formulas or anything, but ive been racing RC cars for decades. RC racing was pretty much the first hobby that popularized Lipo batteries, so ive been using them for a VERY long time. generally, the idea in RC racing is, electricity doesnt push, it pulls. when it comes to motor heat, its not because the battery is pushing too much amps, its because the motor is pulling either not enough or too much. hot motor in RC is usually gearing (load) because NiHM or NiCD could never have enough amps to make a motor hot. if your high C rated 11.1v lipo makes your motor hot, id say the motor wasnt designed for that powerful of a battery and its pulling way more amps than it was designed for. now, in a reverse situation where a motor tries to pull more amps or C or even voltage than a battery can deliver, the battery gets hot. so when i build airsoft guns i use the same mindset. you can either balance your voltage with your amps or balance your amps with your voltage. i.e 7.4v 120C will run similar to an 11.1v 25C. a motor running optimally on its idea voltage/amps SHOULD get warm to the touch but not hot. in RC cars, the 550 motors are designed for running 7.2v (or 7.4v these days for lipo) so running a high volt battery will make the motor run hotter period. unless you reduce the amperage so much that the voltage trickles through. and if you run less voltage your battery will get toasted. RC cars are very clear in the labeling as to what they can handle and im not sure why airsoft motors arent. but generally, as long as you are in the voltage window, C doesnt matter. i got a 5000Mah 30C battery and a 5000Mah 150C battery for my RC car. they both run about the same except that the 150C has a bit more punch because it can deliver more power when the motor demands it. the higher the C the better. now we are also talking about brushless so these motors have no limit, the more you feed the faster you go. but brushed motors will keep demanding more and more, even past what they can handle, and thats what makes them hot. you can run a high C battery in an airsoft gun, just dont expect a cheapy motor to last long. you can either get a better quality motor OR, change the gearing in your gun to reduce the load on the motor. heavier springs will also make it run hotter. i imagine the load on these little brushed motors are a LOT heavier than an RC car because of the gears and the spring tension. if motor heat is an issue, first thing id do is get a high quality high torque motor to handle the job at hand. if it still gets hot, id consider a high torque gear ratio. but C rating shouldnt really be a factor.
as the motor heats up it draws more power from the wiring as the wires are also heating up it cause's the metal in the wire to expand allowing more current through it which causes heat to in crease, with out active cooling the heat will increase until it reaches a break down point, either the wiring will melt solder joints, mosfet will fry or motor will seize, this is how i understand the inner workings. love the vids and look forward to them every week
Great video. Some explanations I would like to add:
1. As with ANY device - you have to love your stuff. Treat it with respect. Airsoft guns even more so, because they are kinda moody pieces of electro-mechanic hardware.
2. How hot your motor gets is also highly dependant on it's *effectiveness coefficient*. Which basically shows how many percent of the energy entering your motor is actually turned into turning your gearbox. The rest of the energy? It all goes to heat. That's how things work in the world.
3. Higher TPA motors tend to have higher efficiency and so they heat up less, generally, for the same amount of work done.
4. Spamming your trigger heats up the motor very effectively because at the startup motor draws around FIVE TIMES MORE ENERGY that during constant work. So, when you spam semi-auto you constantly make your motor experience those impulses, which heats it up fast.
5. If your wires get hot and your motor doesn't - that means you need thicker wires. Current ones are too thin for the power they are getting through, they are a limiting factor in the chain.
It amazes me how thin wires are on "LiPo rEaDy" guns. Even Titans ship with thin wires, you'd think for the price they could wire it with 16 gauge silicon wire to match the Lipo batteries we're hooking up to them. It's ridiculous, wire isn't that expensive and rewiring a gun is far more expensive and difficult for the average person than swapping out parts.
In fact, motor needs 2-3 gearbox cycles to reach maximum speed. May differ on some brands.
Great info. I'm totally new (only played 2 game days) and this is a big help. I have a G&G Raider L 2.0 E and enjoy it. Now I can try to help make it last longer.
I was wondering why my parents always hated it when I kept flipping the light switch...
All these years I thought it was just because they got annoyed and nothing else
Pro tech here... only a few years in.. gotta say I agree with many things here - also I learned quite a few things as well. Lots of valuable knowledge for the novice airsoft technician.
My first AEG was a SRC M4 Dragon. Really cheap £60, really good for a few months until it broke. I learned a lot from that gun. How to take it apart, strip threads, break plastic tabs and more. That was 10 years ago and just recently I got it back working again. As NA says - look after it and it will keep firing or a bit longer before it breaks again 😎
Think you could put together a video on plastic vs metal parts or specific types of plastic and metal? Perhaps just regarding internals, but could apply the concept to the entire gun as well. I loved your bit about metal vs plastic piston teeth. Thanks for being a great example and displaying all that you do. Carry on mate.
The thing I have to explain to people the most is how there is a time and place for different materials. Having a full metal piston tooth rack is so unnecessary in most cases and many times a liability. Also appreciated the test motor apparatus and electrical bit. I took a class for it in high school, but have since lost the knowledge. I'll study up and try to get it right for when I come out with some videos.
Talking about gauge of wire (19:00)
Thinner wires (gearbox to connector) have more resistance than thick ones (typically connector to the battery) - look at a fuse as an example, the fuse (a thin wire in a casing) will pop if it gets too much power or a sudden burst. So while the wires going to the gearbox are thinner, OEMs for AEGs typically use silver wire in the gearbox to try and lower that resistance (shocking, but gold and copper is not the best conductor of electricity as most people think it is - its just silver is bloody expensive compared to those).
Gold is good for contacts, because it doesn't get any kind of oxidation (not sure if I use the right term, English is not my main language). So it maintains better contact between connectors.
With wire gauge you can think about it like water pipes. you can have a thick pipe lead into a thin pipe with a steady water flow/pressure that the smaller pipe can handle. As soon as you increase water flow/pressure to what the bigger pipe can handle as you mentioned it creates a chocking point. If this goes on for too long then the pipe will burst. Now convert this to electrical. Big wire into little wire fine with low wattage. But if you pump the wattage that the bigger wire candle handle you get a chock again only with wire this is heat. The smaller wire will melt, burn or even cause fires.
This is a very rudimentary way of thinking about it but easiest way to break it down.
@@timweaver1610 that's how my mind works... lol
Friction loss
Wow, I've just found this hidden gem (after Ares B&T APC9 clip showing how bad it is).
Actually, this is very educating for all airsofters in terms of preventive maintenance.
luke ..wire covering doesnt necessarily mean that the guage of wire is bigger, but its usually a correct assumption. If you plug in a battery with larger guage wire into smaller guage wiring- to your point, your trying to shove juice from a garden hose through a straw and you will get resistance at the thinner wire side causing heat. so lipo conversion means changing out ALL of the wiring in the gun to a larger guage of wire and using better connectors like deans. If you have a gate titan or internal fet youd have to change the wiring from the fet to the motor as well thereby voiding your warranty- yet another argument for using warfets instead of internal fets. Personally, Ive found that I get just as good performance out of a 7.4 using an internal fet as long as gearing and such is set to the speed I want. I rely on mechanics rather than electronics to give me trigger response. This is a hard lesson for most to learn.
As far as mark up. I worked for a retail company that did a 200% markup and they sold the super cheap mainly plastic airsoft... so if the marked a $50 gun up to $250, just imagine how little it cost to make.
The Rolf Harris line was amazing. 😂😂 You should do a run down of the manufacturers and give your 2p for each.
The voltage of the battery is directly proportional to the rotational speed of the motor, or the rate of fire.
Amps that can be drawn from the battery are derived from the C and mAh rating, amps = C * mAh/1000.
A fully charged 11.1v LiPo will do 1.5x the ROF of a 7.4v lipo given they have the same C and mAh.
Compared to NiMH batteries, LiPos in use will lose voltage fast initially, stay at the same voltage for a long time then drop off.
The reason the smaller LiPo is not as fast and doesn't heat up the motor as much is because it is either not fully charged (and therefore less voltage) or it cant supply enough amps for the motor to pull the spring in a given timeframe.
If motor is drawing more current than the battery can supply safely, this is bad for the battery!
The only reason they don't explode is because they have a discharge regulating circuit in the battery covering (at least I hope most do).
The reason a 7.4v LiPo will not heat up the motor as much is because it will be running the motor at a lower speed and therefore do less spring pulls a second and therefore less work.
When you screamed “AOEEEE” like a weaboo in the beginning, thy shit was funny.
Nice video.
And a little side note, for not letting bb go forward and backwards. I first saw it on sniper, they'v made a bed for bb on their entry point in hop camera. In short, hole inside hop camera.
I’m super new to the sport like less than 6 months thanks for all the tips and advice.
Short stroked ASG scorpion evo with asg ultimate internals: it shot 65-90.000bb sofar, alot full auto, still works well never been opened after
My Krytac LMG wobbles like that too from the back. I think it's made on the original body. The MK2s or whatever the newer ones I have are don't wobble and are quite tight on that back lip.
I have had my guns for years too (over 10) and have never had problems. Even bought guns that were said to be broken, and they have worked perfectly right out of the box.
This is good information. I've been airsofting 15 years and still learn from your vids 👍
Yep my G&G SG550 was a lemon and till last year I'm still on bringing my first gun to life.
After watching a lot of your videos I finally bought just a simple 7.4 1000mah 25c. I like it. I haven’t had heating issues (as much). It feels fine.
When you stopped up the nozzle and held the trigget was the most painful cringey thing I have ever experienced. I was just begging for it to end. Poor poor rifle.
So, plastic piston teeth are basically mechanical fuses?
So what I can see from this if you are just starting out use the gun till it breaks then start upgrading vs. buying one and spending the same amount of money to upgrade right out of the box
I wonder why manufacturers haven't started using more CNC stepper motor style motors for airsoft, as pretty much every site allows semi auto but some don't allow full. It makes more sense to build the guns primarily for semi instead of auto
damnnn man i bought a GandG broken because it had a mosfet issue and bought a gate titan, listened to someone to get a metal piston and now i dont know wether to change it or not
Hi Negative airsoft! This video is awesome (like all the vids you do!) I’ve found myself answering two different airsoft peoples issue questions after watching this vid! And told them to watch it too!
47 mins,,, nice one👏 I’m super grateful but I hope this don’t count as two vids, I can’t deal with waiting for the next vid as it is 😫
If the wires get thinner the resistance increases, that would cause heat loss. That's why the wires in a fuse are thin, so that if the current is too high, the heat will melt it
This pretty much answers my earlier Krytac question on another one of your videos... Don't fuck with it until it breaks, even tho it sounds really squeaky and whiny.
Regarding the wire diameter, too small wires will create heat which will melt the wires and could lead to short circuits.
For airsoft purposes a 2 mm2 wire will be enough even if the continuous discharge rate is a little high for that gauge due to the fact that you usually only run the motor for a few seconds at a time.
First time I fired my AEG at an event I was firing semi auto but listening to make sure it was fully cycling every trigger pull. When full auto I was firing 3-6 round bursts, I use midcap mags because i don't like the idea of having to wind the mag on but it has a side effect of making me think about ammunition use... I HAVE to think about how much I fire and not fire the long bursts you mention in the video. Maybe that's a good thing? Also Mid caps have no winding mechanism inside... less parts = more reliable?
And thats why I prefer GBB. Easy to maintain and not much in there that can break. The only reason I have AEG's is because I like how they look and I need something to run during the colder season.
Micsmit 45 AEGs are cheaper too. A GBB cost the same as real steel where I live
@@sterkriger2572 umm yea that is not the case where I live. A GBB will cost about the same as a mid to high range AEG.
Loving your spot on logic to airsoft guns. I'm guilty of reading a lot of airsoft "tips" and believing people on the internet without any evidence to provide its true. By watching your videos I see your experience as you breeze through issues I struggle with. You have saved me a few quid on pointless upgrades/modifications.
Any tips to reduce travel on a P90 trigger?
I enjoy watching your videos because I enjoy figuring out how things work, im new to airsoft (only played a few games)got a second hand f&n hestral spr5, no air seal, screws that belong in a stripper club, but I'm enjoying the challenge of making it work and your videos are helping me understand a lot more than if I was doing it blind, also love the music and I have a nurprol ak and it's not let me down yet because I'm not a cunt with it and it shoots further and more accurately than the bloody sniper XD I know this is probably redundant but keep up the good work coz you always get a laugh out of me
Putting the BB across your forearm, and the resulting hematoma, looks painful, but then I remember this is the man that put a drill bit THROUGH his hand in another video and kept working, not to mention the countless cuts and stabs I've seen in these videos. I'm guessing that BB welt barely registered. 😂 And, I must say, as a leather worker with more scars on my hands and fingers than I can count, I love a person willing to suffer for their craft. Salute, sir! 🫡
im sure someone has said already but about the large wire into the smaller wire, the larger wire has less resistance than the smaller wire so the smaller wire restricts the flow of electrons (current) more.
think of it like this:
in a water pipe system, current is the water, voltage is the pressure pushing the water and resistance is the size of the pipe.
if you have a big pipe that goes into a small pipe, less water is being moved through that area of pipe at that time than in the larger pipe, so the resistance has reduced the current.
another way you can picture this is that trick of taking chewing gum wrapper cutting it into a bowtie shape and putting either end on the ends of a AA battery. the thinnest point burns while the thicker areas just carry the electricity and dont burn. here the resistance at that narrow point is too much for the current moving through it with such "pressure" (voltage) behind it. imagine if you had a city power line on 2 sides connected with a 2mm wire, it will burn up.
hope those explanations kinda put into perspective what happens when a large wire goes to a smaller wire, in short the resistance is increased.
thanks mate, got my first gun last week and the motor was getting hot so i just got a new motor and it was not getting hot anymore its a old apex r series cant find any info on it but there are a lot of problems with it so your videos help me fix it and build it to how i want it, i was wondering what the main things i should replace and upgrade for range and accuracy?
Hey man, just be careful with using the exterior dimensions to determine gauge of the wire... not all wire gauges use the same thickness sleeves so it isn't a very reliable way to determine if one set of wires is "better" or not. And someone else answered the question already, but thicker copper wires = less resistance over the length of the wire.
If one thinks "i don't need to watch such vids, because i know everything, nahaw naw nahw🤓",
This one is most probably a victim of the dunning kruger effect.
P.S.
Like your background music.
I like it that much, thad i even needed some Time to realise, that it isn't Spotify Playing in the Background😅
Enjoy that Polish beer mate . Cheers. Great video.
If you checked the voltage of both batteries when plugged in to the motor, the lipo voltage will be higher. Lipos sag less in general, thats what the c rating is all about. A bigger battery with the same voltage will only create more wear or heat because if all else is the same, the bigger battery will sag less. Voltage ÷ resistance = current. Higher the voltage, higher the current, higher the heat generated.
They may not last forever, but at least they last for sumthin nowadays. CYMA isnt 'high toys' or the winding sound of stripped gears after a week or less like the pizza would be free after 7 days or sum, but i remember when cyma could only make springers til they made a hit with the AK Beta
Is there any way you can take orders from the US? We need a little of that Airsoft ramsey teching.
My father and I tech all of our team’s guns and honestly this video is what we preach to people. The only thing that was cringe is saying energy is created, energy is only transferred not created or destroyed. But that’s just me being picky. Great video btw and yes SRC is absolute garbage
Lol looking back I now realize why I was so confused when my combat machines pistol grip almost melted in my hand.
The music gives me such a hardon that i get blurry vision and ringing in me ears and i miss half of the important info
It's true that the energy will funnel in the thinner wire, but I guess on this scale it does not matter so much as long as the motor does not constantly spin like in the test motor.
Probably been answered already but the C rating refers to the discharge rate of the battery a 1000 mah battery with 1 c discharge can output 1 amp theoretically at max. a 20 c 1000 mah battery can output 20 amps. This applies to batteries of all voltages
As always, great video man! Very informative. Keep rocking 🤙
in fairness to the Barry Burton guns it wasn't a UK issue, it was a temperature issue and needed to be 38c or so.
Got a king arms on my table. Orderd steel piston for it. Plastic one was wearing out after 1skirm and some garden shooting 😅
@Shrubbman Magee king arms m4 tws keymod dinosaur
What is he doing when he files the part where the cylinder goes?
Perła; honey. I love that beer.
I came here for knowledge, but starting at the second half of the video I got scared, that clog part broke me 😵. Still great informative vids
I f... hate you Luke for not puting a track list in the video description.
Btw. you showed me a new retro wave and f.. me .... you have good taste man. Great video , helped me understand some new shit and take a shit also.
Negative airsoft: you'll use your dsg on full auto against cheaters
Me: yes.