I appreciate that you showed the finished product before you began the construction. This show your forethought and respect of peoples time. You would be welcome around my campfire any time.
Thanks you sir. I've been using it for some time now and it's still working well. the only complain is that there is no way to lock the table. Most often this is not an issue unless I'm are drilling very large holes
Great video! Just what I'm looking for. As an aside, your name, nickname, 'Winky' reminds me of my dad. He had a nickname when he was in the Air Force flying B-29 Bombers in WWII. They called him 'Wink'. Pilots all seem to get a nickname. I think it was because he was a flirt with the ladies and winking at them all the time. So, Wink or Winky touches a part of my heart. Thanks! 👍
Hi thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick. What we like best is the square column on your drill press as we just like them better then the round version, we cannot wait to watch you use this X by Y table as well.
Thanks, I used my old x y table for several years and loved it but this one is more solid and hopefully just as accurate. I'd rather drill with the drill press than a mill... especially now that I have a square column!
Since I was prowling around your channel I figured I would stop here. I made 3 of these slides that I love. I used HDF and have never looked back. When I made our router table I made it 3' x 4' with slots for fences around the router base. LOVE IT. Our 4 in vacuum fits the Lexan box below as well. I have all our stationary and some of the roiling like the joiner wired to start and stop the exhaust system on demand. It wasn't really that hard to do as it is 3 phase so I had just one power header to wire in 3 main planers and a drum sander. Always great to stop by my old friend. A good rest of the week to you and a great weekend to come eh.
I use the heck out of my x y table. I'm not sure how anyone can do without. The only negative is backlash and no way to lock the table. The backlash itself is not an issue but the fact that it moves under load is. I've ordered a cheap Chinese table from Vevor and will be adding new lead screws and dials. It has locks on gibs.
@@WinkysWorkshop Have you ever thought about making a split nut for the traverse screws ? Just a thought. You shouldn't have any troubles coming up with those Mr Engineer. I can already see your gears just a turning, LOL. Take care Winky !
@@TomokosEnterprize - For backlash? I tried that on one of the screws on this table. That was several years ago. I didn't have much success but I can't remember why... space limitations was part of it I think.
@@WinkysWorkshop I am pretty sure you would have to increase the threaded rods up to 7/8" or better 1". That will make the stationary 1/2 nut far easier to tie down. It will be easier to either hinge or slide the pinch 1/2 nut. It could be a project awaiting for when time allows as you don't have to break down the existing X/Y as you will need it in operation both for this build and every day needs. You are great at out of the box so once you embrace this I am going to call it a complete success my friend. Just what you wanted is another project eh, LOL. Take care and have a great rest of the week and the weekend to follow eh.
@@TomokosEnterprize Yeah.... maybe I'll make a new one in the future. This one has served me very well for about 3 years now but I'm looking forward to the new cast iron mill table. The biggest negative is travel. I loose about 3.5" inched on the Y axis. The new table has 4.5" travel.
Great concept Mark. Now that I have accumulated 2 more HD driill press (in restoration @ present), I too have need of building an X & Y table. Great video. Bear
Nice design! I'll have to think about how to do the same on my drill press. I still want to ad the square tube upgrade. Thanks again for great ideas and content!
I'll draw the plans this week and post a link. It's fairly easy to build if you have the right tools. I suspect most my viewers are more into metal working which could be an issue. If this is the case for you, you might consider building the square column and buying a commercial mill table. A good one is likely to be over $300 however... lot of junk out there. It really is amazing how much they increase the accuracy of whatever you build. Thanks for the comment!
I use the heck out of this table. It has some limitations but for the most part they are easy to work around. It would be nice if it locked. Drilling 1/2" or larger it tends to move around (within the back lash).
Great vids , very nice work . I will go up to 3/4 threaded rod for the screw feed . I built a new mount for my bench drill when i noticed the horrendous amount of flex in the original cast iron unit , this is the perfect upgrade all round . Keep the vids coming , great stuff .
Thanks. I'm working on the CAD drawings and I will post a link in the description area below the video. In addition I'll probably post a 2 or 3 minute video with the link. Be sure and subscribe, that way you should get a notification when they are posted. My goal is to have them finished by 4-27-19
Thanks Danny. This X Y table is great although the backlash is a bit excessive. About .020 I think. If I didn't have the skill to build the table it is well worth $250 to $300 to buy a mill table. Paired with the square column it's the best!
@@WinkysWorkshop The shop I was building was for my son and we got the roof on it and he has been too busy to do anything else to it. I pretty much have the LeBlond finished. There are a few things I want to fix that aren't just right but it is good enough to make chips. The lead screw and the feed rod are both bent, the coupling on the feed rod is not right, (it has a pin that is too long), the pulley on the motor is too small, the pin that keeps the slip gear from going too far that drives the lead screw is missing, and I need to figure out why it has so much play in the rack and pinion that drives the apron. I don't see any way to adjust it. I may have to shim the rack closer to the apron and see if that helps... Other than that it looks and runs awesome!!!
Thanks Ray, It works great. The only aggravation is about .010 to .015 backlash. You just have to make all your moves going the same direction. Now that I've used it for a while there is no way I could do without it now.
Awesome project Wink, enjoyed watching this one all come together thanks for taking the time to share it with us. Just a thought consider tapper pinning the collar to the threaded shaft. Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. Pinning on one end would be a good idea but on the other end I'd like to be able to adjust for wear. It really needs to be a clamping collar and not a set screw collar. I did this on my old x y table and used a belleville spring washer. It worked very well. I wish I had used higher quality Acme rod. I'm sure this cheap rod is fairly accurate but it wasn't very straight and there is more backlash than I would like.
Hi Winky. ....Awsome table. Looking forward to seeing how you make the dials. I had a thought on how to stabilize the blocks to the table top during layout. I use magnets and "pinch" the part between them - this allows you to tap the part arond to your layout lines and holds then securely enough for transfer punch without assembly jumping all over. I Really appreciate your time in making your videos! Have a happy day, and a happy Easter too.
How's she goin'? That table is very well engineered and built. It will certainly address the issue of the old table flexing. Nice job and an interesting watch!!! Take 'er easy!!!
Thanks, I'm not sure how I ever got by without it although without the square column on the drill press I might not feel the same. I know a guy that screwed the rack for his table lift to the column (mine didn't have one). He said it works very well if he puts pressure to one side before locking it down. The DRO would simply the table. If you build the table spend a little extra on the acme lead screw. Mine has a lot of back lash.
@@WinkysWorkshop Good point. Mine locks down pretty good. I find I do a lot of precise hole drilling on the mill. sometimes meaning I have to take the vise off and retram. It sure would be nice to have a precise XY on a drill stand to handle those operations.
@@Spetet - I do most precise drilling on my drill press because it is way faster. Of course my mill is an RF-30 with a round column so if I have to raise the head to ream a hole I lose my horizontal position. A standard knee mill might be a bit more convenient. I now have a harbor freight drill motor powering my table lift on the drill press so it's very fast. I leave the 5 inch vice bolted to the drill press table. If I need to drill something larger I have an auxiliary table mad of wood that clamps in the vice.
The X Y table combined with the square column drill press is phenomenal. However it is not very solid. A commercially made mill table is heavier and has lock downs. This one works fantastic to about 3/8" but much over ans things vibrate. Still I use it a lot and it is accurate. As for the tap follows... I really don;t like them much. They tend to pop out of the hold on the back of the tap wrench. Also, I almost always have the countersink it in the chuck so I just use it. With that being said, THIS is the way to go! th-cam.com/video/ADYdezM8uMU/w-d-xo.html
Nice little tip when tapping on the mill and you can not use a spring loaded center for your tap. Hang a weight on the down feed lever to keep a constant pressure on the center, that will save you having to keep stopping tapping and having to apply a bit more downfeed on the quill. Great project by the way, you certainly can mix woodworking and engineering into your projects. Well done. Another tip to stop chatter when countersinking, it to tear off s small square of rag or tissue paper, fold it over several thicknesses and countersink THROUGH it. It will clog up the clearances on the teeth and stop chatter. With regards to your locking collar grub screws damaging the shaft, file / mill a small flat where the screw clamps, will come off easily when required. With regards to your shaft being a bit tight, when you started assembly, if you had drilled and tapped 1 hole at each end of the shaft, try the shaft for freeness to turn, then spotted through with the drill bit or been very carefull with your transfer punch, through the other 2 holes it should have come out much better. With regards to yout X dial hitting the table and you losing 1/2 inch of travel, counterbore the wood to give clearance.
Nice job wink, I use my mill drill all the time. but it would be nice to have this table on the press. Very nice and doable design with the wooden block, a lot of times I will make a prototype from wood to try a metal design only to find that the wooden part is every bit as useable as the original design. Enjoyed, cheers!
Thank you. I have been locking the table on the axis not being used but have been cutting the full thickness of the plate in one go, say 6mm. No wonder i am having trouble!!!
Just a thought. On the two end blocks, put some CA glue, set the table in place and give it 5 minutes or squirt some accelerator on them. That way they are located and you can C clamp them before you use the transfer punch. Keeps things from jumping around while you are trying to mark them. I have used it several times. Works.
A more precise method of positioning the bearing blocks: Shim them flush with the wood surface, apply a bit of epoxy to the top of each one, position and align the plate on top. After the epoxy has hardened, remove the plate carefully with the blocks attached. Punch, knock them free, drill.
To help with the rod deflection you can install A Linear Bearing Slide Rail Guide, can be expensive tho. With the work you have done with the X - Y table till now maybe have A go at making your own version with the material you have on hand. Play Safe From Ontario Canada.
The only problem the bent Acme rod causes is binding. The 1" x 3/4" guide bars hold everything in alignment. I'm guessing the table will be accurate within a .002". The guide bars were a perfect fit. The back lash in the threads will likely be about .010 or more. Maybe not a big deal if you adjust in one direction but still annoying.
Being totally honest, I used it several times a week and it works perfect. The only two problems are backlash is a bit excessive and the table can't be locked. It works perfect up until about 1/2" in steel and the vibration will move the table within the backlash. This accuracy is within about .015" but much better with smaller holes.
@@WinkysWorkshop Could you add a couple of bolts along side the steel square stock so that when you have it in position you could push against them? I would think a couple of threaded inserts 1/4" or so would do nicely.
That's a GREAT idea! However, it would indeed complicate things. With a square guide depth is not an issue but with a dovetail slight variation in height would effect both the horizontal and vertical clearances. Your suggestion got me thinking however! Have you ever seem the T slots used on many new table saws? It hold the front of the miter gauge in the slot if you slide it off the table. A person could just cut grooves in the sides of the current slot and bolt a washer to the bottom of the guide. Very cool!
Yes, aside from the flexing and being a bit heavy it's a good table. The new design is a bit lighter weight, doesn't flex and is a bit more stable on the X and Y axis. The pressure of drilling pins the component together. I'm giving the old table to a friend but I'll be looking for a way to support it better before he gets it.
On your old table, could you not have added 2 blocks to the slide carriers sized to give minimal clearance to the underside of the table top plate so that when pressure is applied from the drilling operation, the only flex is that of the clearance you allowed (a few thou)?
I considered doing this but there were some obstructions under the table. To be honest I gave the table to a friend and can't remember if it was doable. There was another problem too, the table moved freely and moved under load. The new slide table is more stable when pressure is applied although it still moves more than I would like. If I am drilling a series of holes and want them accurate I always make sure I'm working fro the same side of the backlash on the adjustments. Some way of locking the table would be a big plus.
I would love to make this for my drill press. How soon will the drawing be available? A suggestion: If you could mention more measurements when you mak the video it would be helpful. By the way, I use Dykem in my dial etchings, works great.
Thanks for the tip on the Dykem. I had some dials black oxide coated and this worked fantastic. I'd say the Dykem would work just as well. I have the plans for the drill press in a separate video. I'll paste the link here at the end of this comment but here's some thing I'd do different. 1) Make the round tube that fits in the head a little taller than I did. That way you have more clearance at the top of the square tube for your motor, mine is very close. 2) The two arms on the front of the slide need to be a wider, maybe 3" if it will fit. Bolt them the same as the plans call for but either tack weld or pin them together. My table flexes under heavy load. 3) Buy a good commercial mill table. I love the one I made but if you are drilling over 1/2 it moves a little. I still use it every day and it works great if you feel like making the effort, you just have to work within it's limitation. One last thing, the most critical part of the drill press is getting the tube on top welded perfectly straight. I cant stress this enough. Thanks for watching. th-cam.com/video/Ni3705KLOsw/w-d-xo.html
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for the drill press drawing,. I plane of tackling that next. However right now the X-Y Table would be more useful. I'd like to make that next. Can you give me a link to those drawings? By the way, I didn't say it last time, bur really enjoy your videos. Thanks!
You replied to my comment about mill running out when cutting slotted holes - "climb cutting"- Idoes this only happen on round column mills?? Thank you
No, all mills. This is worse with smaller diameter mills but and may be worse with smaller milling machines. You can do things to help this. Lock the table on the axis you are not moving, take shallow cuts, make sure the gibs are adjusted snug and you can even partially lock the table on the axis you are moving. I almost always do the last one when I cut slots.
This is awesome! Do you have any thoughts on adapting this into a cross-slide that could hold a tool post for my wood lathe. I'd love to be able to do a bit of metal turning. Is that a horribly dangerous idea?
This is an excellent point. Although you could build this without having a mill. It saves a little money over buying one and in some cases the end result is better, depending on how much you spend on a commercial x y table. If you don't want to build one (or only have a drill press) I encourage you to buy one. Don't spend less than $250 or you will get junk. You will never be sorry you spent the money! One other person said, you have an X Y table on your mill, why build another one? Also a valid question. Mostly because the drill press is up a little higher and more convenient but also sometimes I have the mill set up to mill and don't want to take the time to set it up to drill and back again. Oh, and there is also the fact that my mill has a round column and my drill press has a square column.... everything stays aligned if I need to drop the table on the drill press. Thanks for the comment.
Neat. I will be interested to know the final accuracy & stability. That said, if you want an affordable small / mid sized engineers x-y table here in the UK (or likely most of Europe too...) there really are only Chinese imports available. They are cheap but have a terrible reputation for poor build quality, slop, inaccurate dials etc. Many different makes but all appear to come from the same molds / factories etc. with virtually no quality control. There is virtually nothing available that you might call "semi-pro" for home engineers seeking reasonable precision. Not many used, compact, reputable professional mill tables come up for sale. Having searched fruitlessly for some time, I came across your video & it seems I could do worse than to follow your pattern & build my own!
Thanks, The table is very accurate as long as you work to one side of the backlash which is about .010 to .020. Almost all of this is in the cheap acme threaded rod and nut. The other day I drilled 6 holes 1-inch apart for 1/4-20 bolts in two separate operations and threaded one set of holes. The bolts were a very close fit but no binding at all. The table's weakness is larger holes. Anything over 3/8" and the table moves around. I'm sure most of this is backlash but some small amount is probably flexing as well. With that being said, if you locate all the holes with a center drill first the table movement is not an issue. I use this table almost daily and love it. Like you, I have looked for a good mill table also. There are several in the $200 to $300 range that look poorly made. If the close up picture of the dials is an indication of the quality it would not be good for much. Shars here in the US has one that looks a little better but still not great. I've actually thought about trying one but the leadscrew is metric. Good in your part of the world but not so good here. www.shars.com/products/workholding/machining-tables/heavy-duty-mill-drill-table
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for the informative reply. Identical tables to the Shars, here are around £150. I found another type marketed as "precision" but the reviews were so variable it was hard to believe they were talking about the same machine! Seemed like only pot luck would get you a decent one. Re. your DIY version, accuracy of machining & closeness of fit, which you clearly achieve, makes all the difference to backlash etc. I would think 0.01 - .02 is excellent for a wooden table! I have an old Atlas lathe that has terrible backlash on the cross slide but you get used to accounting for it when machining. With the bench press, even if not doing more complex machining, a lot of the time I just need to quickly centre a part for drilling. Having to clamp it to the fixed table then release & try & move it 0.5mm before re-clamping is very tedious. The x-y / compound table or vice is invaluable for the job.
@@robinstokes5179 - The square column drill press paired with the X Y table is more valuable than my mill. If people fully realized how valuable the combination was you see supplier selling drill presses with a dovetail column and mill table. I have my 5 inch vise pinned to the table in just the right position and I have never removed it. I have a square of 3/4" plywood with a 2x4 block glued to the bottom. If I need a flat table I clam the 2x4 in the vise and - instant table. I think the cheap mill tables would probably be okay. Making new dials is really fairly easy. I've made at least 10 dials so far. One think I would want is a table lock. The one I made does not have this.
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I appreciate that you showed the finished product before you began the construction. This show your forethought and respect of peoples time. You would be welcome around my campfire any time.
Thanks you sir. I've been using it for some time now and it's still working well. the only complain is that there is no way to lock the table. Most often this is not an issue unless I'm are drilling very large holes
Great hybrid project,Mark and I like your woodworking skeels.Thank you.
Thanks
Wonderful work and a great addition to any shop. Thanks so much for sharing this! Can't wait to be able to buy the machines necessary to build it.
Thank you very much!
I love all the man toys you have. You're doing fantastic work. Thank you
Me too! And thanks!
Great video! Just what I'm looking for. As an aside, your name, nickname, 'Winky' reminds me of my dad. He had a nickname when he was in the Air Force flying B-29 Bombers in WWII. They called him 'Wink'. Pilots all seem to get a nickname. I think it was because he was a flirt with the ladies and winking at them all the time. So, Wink or Winky touches a part of my heart. Thanks! 👍
Interesting.... mine sort of morpened from my last name and a guy at work made if popular.
Awesome job on the table. Great fun watching you create these things.
Thanks for the great compliment!
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY -Hot Melt Glue Machine ,if you have needs,please contact with us:)
Whatsapp : + 86 131 6457 6609 Email : sales8@jorimachine.com
Excellent build! Thank you
Thanks, Very glad you enjoyed it.
Hi thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick.
What we like best is the square column on your drill press as we just like them better then the round version, we cannot wait to watch you use this X by Y table as well.
Thanks, I used my old x y table for several years and loved it but this one is more solid and hopefully just as accurate. I'd rather drill with the drill press than a mill... especially now that I have a square column!
Since I was prowling around your channel I figured I would stop here. I made 3 of these slides that I love. I used HDF and have never looked back. When I made our router table I made it 3' x 4' with slots for fences around the router base. LOVE IT. Our 4 in vacuum fits the Lexan box below as well. I have all our stationary and some of the roiling like the joiner wired to start and stop the exhaust system on demand. It wasn't really that hard to do as it is 3 phase so I had just one power header to wire in 3 main planers and a drum sander. Always great to stop by my old friend. A good rest of the week to you and a great weekend to come eh.
I use the heck out of my x y table. I'm not sure how anyone can do without. The only negative is backlash and no way to lock the table. The backlash itself is not an issue but the fact that it moves under load is. I've ordered a cheap Chinese table from Vevor and will be adding new lead screws and dials. It has locks on gibs.
@@WinkysWorkshop Have you ever thought about making a split nut for the traverse screws ? Just a thought. You shouldn't have any troubles coming up with those Mr Engineer. I can already see your gears just a turning, LOL. Take care Winky !
@@TomokosEnterprize - For backlash? I tried that on one of the screws on this table. That was several years ago. I didn't have much success but I can't remember why... space limitations was part of it I think.
@@WinkysWorkshop I am pretty sure you would have to increase the threaded rods up to 7/8" or better 1". That will make the stationary 1/2 nut far easier to tie down. It will be easier to either hinge or slide the pinch 1/2 nut. It could be a project awaiting for when time allows as you don't have to break down the existing X/Y as you will need it in operation both for this build and every day needs. You are great at out of the box so once you embrace this I am going to call it a complete success my friend. Just what you wanted is another project eh, LOL. Take care and have a great rest of the week and the weekend to follow eh.
@@TomokosEnterprize Yeah.... maybe I'll make a new one in the future. This one has served me very well for about 3 years now but I'm looking forward to the new cast iron mill table. The biggest negative is travel. I loose about 3.5" inched on the Y axis. The new table has 4.5" travel.
Fantastic X Y table mate, you truly are a wizard at making useful tools, thank you for sharing great ideas mate. Matty🇦🇺
Thanks, I have all kinds of ideas and never enough time and energy to follow through with most of them.
@@WinkysWorkshop Hello,we are manufacturer of XY -Hot Melt Glue Machine ,if you have needs,please contact with us:)
Whatsapp : + 86 131 6457 6609 Email : sales8@jorimachine.com
Great concept Mark. Now that I have accumulated 2 more HD driill press (in restoration @ present), I too have need of building an X & Y table. Great video. Bear
Thank you sir!
Nice design! I'll have to think about how to do the same on my drill press. I still want to ad the square tube upgrade. Thanks again for great ideas and content!
I'll draw the plans this week and post a link. It's fairly easy to build if you have the right tools. I suspect most my viewers are more into metal working which could be an issue. If this is the case for you, you might consider building the square column and buying a commercial mill table. A good one is likely to be over $300 however... lot of junk out there. It really is amazing how much they increase the accuracy of whatever you build. Thanks for the comment!
I have been wondering if a flat surface could be grafted onto the column similar to the ancient drill press Wink just got, just a thought.
Awesome video, great work. I can't wait to see your video on those dials.
Thanks! I hope to do the dials very soon. I made some for my old lathe a few years ago and they turned out great. Much easier than you might think.
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY Gluing Machine,if you have needs ,please contact with us:)
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Very nicely blending wood and metal, that's what I've been looking for recently.
I use the heck out of this table. It has some limitations but for the most part they are easy to work around. It would be nice if it locked. Drilling 1/2" or larger it tends to move around (within the back lash).
Many woods and ply's can be successfully be mixed with steel/aluminum. helps keep the weight down too.
Great vids , very nice work . I will go up to 3/4 threaded rod for the screw feed . I built a new mount for my bench drill when i noticed the horrendous amount of flex in the original cast iron unit , this is the perfect upgrade all round . Keep the vids coming , great stuff .
This is my second X Y table and they are very handy. Thanks for the compliment!
This is true... most the time it's not much of an issue however
Excellent build 👍
Thanks 👍 It's super handy.
It’s obvious how much you enjoy the engineering challenges of these projects. I’ll never try this myself, but I sure enjoy watching you.
Yes you're right, I love it. Glad you enjoy watching!
Welding up something like this with my everlast welder. a very useful addition to a drill press.
Yes, this is the second slide table I have made. It's amazing how much it improves accuracy.
Excellent video Winky
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is a great idea. Excited to try and copy it.
Thanks. I'm working on the CAD drawings and I will post a link in the description area below the video. In addition I'll probably post a 2 or 3 minute video with the link. Be sure and subscribe, that way you should get a notification when they are posted. My goal is to have them finished by 4-27-19
No rush my friend and thanks for sharing with all of us.
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY -Hot Melt Glue Machine ,if you have needs,please contact with us:)
Whatsapp : + 86 131 6457 6609 Email : sales8@jorimachine.com
It's nice to go back and watch a good video. There are things that you see that you missed the first time. Keep them coming Mr. Winky!!!
Thanks Danny. This X Y table is great although the backlash is a bit excessive. About .020 I think. If I didn't have the skill to build the table it is well worth $250 to $300 to buy a mill table. Paired with the square column it's the best!
How's the new shop and the Leblond lathe coming along?
@@WinkysWorkshop The shop I was building was for my son and we got the roof on it and he has been too busy to do anything else to it. I pretty much have the LeBlond finished. There are a few things I want to fix that aren't just right but it is good enough to make chips. The lead screw and the feed rod are both bent, the coupling on the feed rod is not right, (it has a pin that is too long), the pulley on the motor is too small, the pin that keeps the slip gear from going too far that drives the lead screw is missing, and I need to figure out why it has so much play in the rack and pinion that drives the apron. I don't see any way to adjust it. I may have to shim the rack closer to the apron and see if that helps... Other than that it looks and runs awesome!!!
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY Gluing Machine,if you have needs ,please contact with us:)
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another great video i really enjoyed this one Mark,you never cease to amaze me,take care my friend,stay healthy an safe,till next time.
Thanks Ray, It works great. The only aggravation is about .010 to .015 backlash. You just have to make all your moves going the same direction. Now that I've used it for a while there is no way I could do without it now.
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY -Hot Melt Glue Machine ,if you have needs,please contact with us:)
Whatsapp : + 86 131 6457 6609 Email : sales8@jorimachine.com
Useful thing in the workshop!
Thanks... I used my old one all the time. VERY handy!
Awesome project Wink, enjoyed watching this one all come together thanks for taking the time to share it with us. Just a thought consider tapper pinning the collar to the threaded shaft.
Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. Pinning on one end would be a good idea but on the other end I'd like to be able to adjust for wear. It really needs to be a clamping collar and not a set screw collar. I did this on my old x y table and used a belleville spring washer. It worked very well. I wish I had used higher quality Acme rod. I'm sure this cheap rod is fairly accurate but it wasn't very straight and there is more backlash than I would like.
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY -Hot Melt Glue Machine ,if you have needs,please contact with us:)
Whatsapp : + 86 131 6457 6609 Email : sales8@jorimachine.com
Hi, from Vanderhoof BC. Just west of Prince George. I know your part of our big country well from when I drove transport trucks back in the 70's.
Hi Winky. ....Awsome table. Looking forward to seeing how you make the dials. I had a thought on how to stabilize the blocks to the table top during layout. I use magnets and "pinch" the part between them - this allows you to tap the part arond to your layout lines and holds then securely enough for transfer punch without assembly jumping all over. I Really appreciate your time in making your videos! Have a happy day, and a happy Easter too.
Thanks John, yes magnets are a great idea!
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY -Hot Melt Glue Machine ,if you have needs,please contact with us:)
Whatsapp : + 86 131 6457 6609 Email : sales8@jorimachine.com
Awesome!
Thanks!
How's she goin'? That table is very well engineered and built. It will certainly address the issue of the old table flexing. Nice job and an interesting watch!!! Take 'er easy!!!
Thanks! Yes the old table was good for smaller holes but this new one will be better. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Love it. I've been thinking about a dedicated drill press with an XY table and a DRO. This would be perfect for that.
Thanks, I'm not sure how I ever got by without it although without the square column on the drill press I might not feel the same. I know a guy that screwed the rack for his table lift to the column (mine didn't have one). He said it works very well if he puts pressure to one side before locking it down. The DRO would simply the table. If you build the table spend a little extra on the acme lead screw. Mine has a lot of back lash.
@@WinkysWorkshop Good point. Mine locks down pretty good. I find I do a lot of precise hole drilling on the mill. sometimes meaning I have to take the vise off and retram. It sure would be nice to have a precise XY on a drill stand to handle those operations.
@@Spetet - I do most precise drilling on my drill press because it is way faster. Of course my mill is an RF-30 with a round column so if I have to raise the head to ream a hole I lose my horizontal position. A standard knee mill might be a bit more convenient. I now have a harbor freight drill motor powering my table lift on the drill press so it's very fast. I leave the 5 inch vice bolted to the drill press table. If I need to drill something larger I have an auxiliary table mad of wood that clamps in the vice.
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Nice project. You really need to look into making a spring loaded tap follower to put in your drill chuck.
The X Y table combined with the square column drill press is phenomenal. However it is not very solid. A commercially made mill table is heavier and has lock downs. This one works fantastic to about 3/8" but much over ans things vibrate. Still I use it a lot and it is accurate. As for the tap follows... I really don;t like them much. They tend to pop out of the hold on the back of the tap wrench. Also, I almost always have the countersink it in the chuck so I just use it. With that being said, THIS is the way to go!
th-cam.com/video/ADYdezM8uMU/w-d-xo.html
Nice little tip when tapping on the mill and you can not use a spring loaded center for your tap. Hang a weight on the down feed lever to keep a constant pressure on the center, that will save you having to keep stopping tapping and having to apply a bit more downfeed on the quill. Great project by the way, you certainly can mix woodworking and engineering into your projects. Well done. Another tip to stop chatter when countersinking, it to tear off s small square of rag or tissue paper, fold it over several thicknesses and countersink THROUGH it. It will clog up the clearances on the teeth and stop chatter. With regards to your locking collar grub screws damaging the shaft, file / mill a small flat where the screw clamps, will come off easily when required. With regards to your shaft being a bit tight, when you started assembly, if you had drilled and tapped 1 hole at each end of the shaft, try the shaft for freeness to turn, then spotted through with the drill bit or been very carefull with your transfer punch, through the other 2 holes it should have come out much better. With regards to yout X dial hitting the table and you losing 1/2 inch of travel, counterbore the wood to give clearance.
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Thats a good idea
Nice job wink, I use my mill drill all the time. but it would be nice to have this table on the press. Very nice and doable design with the wooden block, a lot of times I will make a prototype from wood to try a metal design only to find that the wooden part is every bit as useable as the original design. Enjoyed, cheers!
My mill dill is a pain because of the round column. I love using the drill presss... much easier. Thanks!
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Thank you. I have been locking the table on the axis not being used but have been cutting the full thickness of the plate in one go, say 6mm. No wonder i am having trouble!!!
You're welcome!
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Just a thought. On the two end blocks, put some CA glue, set the table in place and give it 5 minutes or squirt some accelerator on them. That way they are located and you can C clamp them before you use the transfer punch. Keeps things from jumping around while you are trying to mark them. I have used it several times. Works.
Thats a good idea!
A more precise method of positioning the bearing blocks: Shim them flush with the wood surface, apply a bit of epoxy to the top of each one, position and align the plate on top. After the epoxy has hardened, remove the plate carefully with the blocks attached. Punch, knock them free, drill.
Great idea!
To help with the rod deflection you can install A Linear Bearing Slide Rail Guide, can be expensive tho.
With the work you have done with the X - Y table till now maybe have A go at making your own version with the material you have on hand.
Play Safe From Ontario Canada.
The only problem the bent Acme rod causes is binding. The 1" x 3/4" guide bars hold everything in alignment. I'm guessing the table will be accurate within a .002". The guide bars were a perfect fit. The back lash in the threads will likely be about .010 or more. Maybe not a big deal if you adjust in one direction but still annoying.
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The inverse of transfer punches is transfer screws, very handy devices.
You're going t have to explain that further
Well done. I am very interested to know how well it works after you put it into service.
Being totally honest, I used it several times a week and it works perfect. The only two problems are backlash is a bit excessive and the table can't be locked. It works perfect up until about 1/2" in steel and the vibration will move the table within the backlash. This accuracy is within about .015" but much better with smaller holes.
@@WinkysWorkshop Could you add a couple of bolts along side the steel square stock so that when you have it in position you could push against them? I would think a couple of threaded inserts 1/4" or so would do nicely.
I have a 10 inch logan lathe,iv'e had it for many years.I use it for making wooden vases,or cutting threads.I don't figure I will ever get rid of it.
Handy to have around!
Great design! The issue you mentioned with the top axis not being secured to the block. Would it over complicate the design to use a
dovetail guide?
That's a GREAT idea! However, it would indeed complicate things. With a square guide depth is not an issue but with a dovetail slight variation in height would effect both the horizontal and vertical clearances. Your suggestion got me thinking however! Have you ever seem the T slots used on many new table saws? It hold the front of the miter gauge in the slot if you slide it off the table. A person could just cut grooves in the sides of the current slot and bolt a washer to the bottom of the guide. Very cool!
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I would love to build those dial for you!
I've built several before. Thanks for the offer but I'll do it when I make the lathe dials.
Perhaps you can modify the old XY with support blocks underneath to stop the flexing? Great video though, very thought provoking.
Yes, aside from the flexing and being a bit heavy it's a good table. The new design is a bit lighter weight, doesn't flex and is a bit more stable on the X and Y axis. The pressure of drilling pins the component together. I'm giving the old table to a friend but I'll be looking for a way to support it better before he gets it.
@@WinkysWorkshop that is a beautiful gesture!
@@BenMitro - Thanks, most often I'd rather see a friend happy than to have his money in my pocket.
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I've watched a lot of your videos, just now realized you're a southpaw.
Yep... thats me. Thanks for watching!
Maybe file it with a swiss file for a flatter surface and more accurate angle to hold a tighter tolerance
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On your old table, could you not have added 2 blocks to the slide carriers sized to give minimal clearance to the underside of the table top plate so that when pressure is applied from the drilling operation, the only flex is that of the clearance you allowed (a few thou)?
I considered doing this but there were some obstructions under the table. To be honest I gave the table to a friend and can't remember if it was doable. There was another problem too, the table moved freely and moved under load. The new slide table is more stable when pressure is applied although it still moves more than I would like. If I am drilling a series of holes and want them accurate I always make sure I'm working fro the same side of the backlash on the adjustments. Some way of locking the table would be a big plus.
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I would love to make this for my drill press. How soon will the drawing be available? A suggestion: If you could mention more measurements
when you mak the video it would be helpful. By the way, I use Dykem in my dial etchings, works great.
Thanks for the tip on the Dykem. I had some dials black oxide coated and this worked fantastic. I'd say the Dykem would work just as well. I have the plans for the drill press in a separate video. I'll paste the link here at the end of this comment but here's some thing I'd do different. 1) Make the round tube that fits in the head a little taller than I did. That way you have more clearance at the top of the square tube for your motor, mine is very close. 2) The two arms on the front of the slide need to be a wider, maybe 3" if it will fit. Bolt them the same as the plans call for but either tack weld or pin them together. My table flexes under heavy load. 3) Buy a good commercial mill table. I love the one I made but if you are drilling over 1/2 it moves a little. I still use it every day and it works great if you feel like making the effort, you just have to work within it's limitation. One last thing, the most critical part of the drill press is getting the tube on top welded perfectly straight. I cant stress this enough. Thanks for watching. th-cam.com/video/Ni3705KLOsw/w-d-xo.html
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for the drill press drawing,. I plane of tackling that next. However right now the X-Y Table would be more useful. I'd like to make that next. Can you give me a link to those drawings?
By the way, I didn't say it last time, bur really enjoy your videos. Thanks!
@@tomsaine2331 Thanks Tom, here's the video with the link to the plans. th-cam.com/video/Njz8leVipQY/w-d-xo.html
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks, probably start working on it tomorrow. ]-)
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You replied to my comment about mill running out when cutting slotted holes - "climb cutting"- Idoes this only happen on round column mills?? Thank you
No, all mills. This is worse with smaller diameter mills but and may be worse with smaller milling machines. You can do things to help this. Lock the table on the axis you are not moving, take shallow cuts, make sure the gibs are adjusted snug and you can even partially lock the table on the axis you are moving. I almost always do the last one when I cut slots.
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This is awesome! Do you have any thoughts on adapting this into a cross-slide that could hold a tool post for my wood lathe. I'd love to be able to do a bit of metal turning. Is that a horribly dangerous idea?
Turn metal on the drill press? Probably not a great idea. Turning metal require things to be very solid.
If you spot drill the shaft the set screw won’t mar the shaft.
True, I should have done that on the short end and used a two piece clamping collar on the other end. One end needed to be somewhat adjustable.
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Great idea and design but if you don't have a machine shop you might as well buy one.
This is an excellent point. Although you could build this without having a mill. It saves a little money over buying one and in some cases the end result is better, depending on how much you spend on a commercial x y table. If you don't want to build one (or only have a drill press) I encourage you to buy one. Don't spend less than $250 or you will get junk. You will never be sorry you spent the money! One other person said, you have an X Y table on your mill, why build another one? Also a valid question. Mostly because the drill press is up a little higher and more convenient but also sometimes I have the mill set up to mill and don't want to take the time to set it up to drill and back again. Oh, and there is also the fact that my mill has a round column and my drill press has a square column.... everything stays aligned if I need to drop the table on the drill press. Thanks for the comment.
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Neat. I will be interested to know the final accuracy & stability. That said, if you want an affordable small / mid sized engineers x-y table here in the UK (or likely most of Europe too...) there really are only Chinese imports available. They are cheap but have a terrible reputation for poor build quality, slop, inaccurate dials etc. Many different makes but all appear to come from the same molds / factories etc. with virtually no quality control. There is virtually nothing available that you might call "semi-pro" for home engineers seeking reasonable precision. Not many used, compact, reputable professional mill tables come up for sale. Having searched fruitlessly for some time, I came across your video & it seems I could do worse than to follow your pattern & build my own!
Thanks, The table is very accurate as long as you work to one side of the backlash which is about .010 to .020. Almost all of this is in the cheap acme threaded rod and nut. The other day I drilled 6 holes 1-inch apart for 1/4-20 bolts in two separate operations and threaded one set of holes. The bolts were a very close fit but no binding at all. The table's weakness is larger holes. Anything over 3/8" and the table moves around. I'm sure most of this is backlash but some small amount is probably flexing as well. With that being said, if you locate all the holes with a center drill first the table movement is not an issue. I use this table almost daily and love it. Like you, I have looked for a good mill table also. There are several in the $200 to $300 range that look poorly made. If the close up picture of the dials is an indication of the quality it would not be good for much. Shars here in the US has one that looks a little better but still not great. I've actually thought about trying one but the leadscrew is metric. Good in your part of the world but not so good here. www.shars.com/products/workholding/machining-tables/heavy-duty-mill-drill-table
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for the informative reply. Identical tables to the Shars, here are around £150. I found another type marketed as "precision" but the reviews were so variable it was hard to believe they were talking about the same machine! Seemed like only pot luck would get you a decent one. Re. your DIY version, accuracy of machining & closeness of fit, which you clearly achieve, makes all the difference to backlash etc. I would think 0.01 - .02 is excellent for a wooden table! I have an old Atlas lathe that has terrible backlash on the cross slide but you get used to accounting for it when machining. With the bench press, even if not doing more complex machining, a lot of the time I just need to quickly centre a part for drilling. Having to clamp it to the fixed table then release & try & move it 0.5mm before re-clamping is very tedious. The x-y / compound table or vice is invaluable for the job.
@@robinstokes5179 - The square column drill press paired with the X Y table is more valuable than my mill. If people fully realized how valuable the combination was you see supplier selling drill presses with a dovetail column and mill table. I have my 5 inch vise pinned to the table in just the right position and I have never removed it. I have a square of 3/4" plywood with a 2x4 block glued to the bottom. If I need a flat table I clam the 2x4 in the vise and - instant table. I think the cheap mill tables would probably be okay. Making new dials is really fairly easy. I've made at least 10 dials so far. One think I would want is a table lock. The one I made does not have this.
Hello,we are manufacturer of XY Gluing Machine,if you have needs ,please contact with us:)
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Hello,we are manufacturer of XY -Hot Melt Glue Machine ,if you have needs,please contact with us:)
Whatsapp : + 86 131 6457 6609 Email : sales8@jorimachine.com
!!!.
Thanks
The same could be accomplished with 1x4 and 1x1, not everyone has a miter saw. I see this everywhere on TH-cam. Are you paying attention to TH-cam?
Please make a video and send me a link.
Kept wondering why the dude kept calling it the "ex-wife table".
:0) Ha
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I want to put two likes for your video. It's not possible, unfortunately.
THANKS !!!