The DRILL PRESS FIX - A Square Column for your drill press - Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.พ. 2019
- With this square column you can maintain horizontal alignment when lowering your drill press table to accommodate longer bits or reamers.
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This press has worked like a charm for my projects th-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
Yes, for me it (or something similar) is a must have. Thanks
Glad to see you making videos again. Thanks for sharing them.
You always show me something I wouldn't have figured out on my own. Looking forward to the next steps. Thanks for sharing.
Damn Man! You are a genius who missed his calling. Keep up the great work for the rest of our sake. Thank you very much. Sometimes conditions dictate a lot of our decisions. Ain't it great to be retired? Now we just need more time.
This is a great fix I have a table that rises and lowers but not as much s you are needing and at times not enough for us either, this is a really thought out fix for the drill press. Lance & Patrick.
Thanks Winky’s, I was on TH-cam looking for something original, well thought out and I found it with you 👌😃🤗
Your welcome, thanks for watching!
Great idea followed by great engineering to realize the idea. This has been very well thought out. Putting that bracket on the column is when a wife comes in "handy"! It's looking great so far.
Thanks!
Fantastic job mate 👌🏼
Great video,Mark.Looks very strong.Thank you.
Thanks 👍
Very interesting!
Great idea
Nice idea and build.
Hello,Wink,well its time to look at more videos,today outdoors it is miserable cold 40 degrees and raining....so here i am viewing my favorite videos,i really like this one very well engineered ,keep them coming until the next time take care my friend.stay safe.
Hello Ray, Thanks for watching! I'll have to say, this drill press fix is by far one of my best efforts. It's not perfect (the table flexes a little) but I use it almost daily. I removed the hand crank and installed a Harbor Fright 3/8" drill and in an instant I can move the table 8 or 10 inches. The visibility and working height is way better than my mill and drilling seems to be just as accurate as my mill. I use it almost daily. I can not imagine why Grizzly or Jet... etc. does not offer a drill press with a dovetail column???
Interesting! I think it will be a good drilling station.
I've been wanting to extend my drill press column, I think I will go the same route with the square tubing.
You just made my year Winky... My drill/mill conversion works but has the same concerns as yours did before your redesign with the column. Gaining 2 inches is a bonus with your design is a bonus. I may do the same but with my smallish Craftsman Lathe I don't believe I could make those offset cuts that you made on those bearing shafts. I believe I can mount a grinding tool on the lathe to grind that cut about 95% and then finish up with some HSS tooling. Thanks for the great idea and great tutelage With respect... Joe
Thanks Joe. I've never owned a Craftsman lathe. The 101 is very small however so maybe you are right. I love the drill press conversion. The only thing I might do a little different is to make the lower arms a little wider and maybe bolt and weld them. When I drill with a lot of pressure they flex. Thanks again!
Great video, thank you for sharing!
Sure thing!
Nice work!!! Had a guy put a heavy part on the drill press table at work and broke the collar that the table rides on. I was tasked with coming up with a fix. I think your project checks most of the boxes of my plan. I think i will put the square over the round column with a locking caller and a swivel lock
That would be interesting. If you use my design for the slide make the brackets that hold the lower bearing a bit wider and possibly tack weld them. I'm getting a little bit of flex and the table drops a little under a lot of pressure. It's a very small amount but in an industrial setting it might be an issue. It sounds like you are working with very heavy stuff.
Brilliant!
wink,i agree with you 100 percent.i like all of your videos,enjoy all of them.....but this one is my favorite.
Thanks a lot Ray. I think this drill press is absolutely the best (maybe even an obvious solution?). I can not figure out why Grizzly or Jet don't sell a drill press with a dovetailed column. They both sell $4000 drill presses with beautiful mill tables and "a round column"???? Thanks again.
Very Nice work on this project.
A thing of beauty!
Thanks!
That’s when it is time to whack the top of the drill off.
Just a quick plug for another of your videos: I saw the one where you explain your cutter support. It was very good. A good solution and well explained.
That word you were searching for to describe the “non-concentricity” is you flipped the pin... my Dad always said “cattywampus.” He used it to cover a lot of different situations. Regardless of the situation, it was pretty understandable.
This is the start of a really good build. I have a small bench drill press and I am going to use your plan to make it a too-small floor drill press. I still won’t be totally happy with it but it will be fun. Looking forward to art 2. Away we go...
Thanks for the comment... You will like part 2
enjoyed...interesting build and solution
I watched a video on the round column mill by "Thatlazymachinist." As I recall he put a laser on the mill head and when losing horizontal he would aim it at a very small fixed spot/line across the room, which, at that distance, proved to be very very accurate for getting back to center. I thought that was very cool! Plus that guy is a hoot too! :-)
I think I saw the same video. I tried this and it works great although its harder than you might think to get the laser on the line.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Like your idea for the square upright. Eccentric is nice addition, well done. Your newest subscriber. I’ll be watching more of your videos.
Thanks! More videos on the way... Also, I just posted plans for the drill press fix
That hand crank looks like a great candidate for a stepper motor
Yes sir. It's now been updated. After pricing gear motors I opted for a harbor freight 3/8 hand drill. With a coupon it was $16 bucks and it works fantastic.
Very interesting.
It's funny how people come up with different solutions to the same problem. My drill press is only a cheap one and suffers from a very short height adjustment so I have been looking to extend it but never gave square tube a thought! I've been rummaging around for a length of round tube the correct size when I have some square tubing in stock! Looks like you might have solved a problem for me.
I must learn to think outside the box!
I will make some drawings available very soon and post them with a short video.
the drawings are now available. I posted another short video and the link is in the info box below the video.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you, I've got them
Hey great vid! Love the dead center you are using in your tail stock.. I still use one and lube it with dutch boy white lead....Oh my I hope the lead does not kill me at age 66! Keep up the good work! Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1:)
I had a a cheap one I burned up the first time I used it. The one I'm using now is very old and apparently indestructible! I may have to try some of your poison, once the center gets hot it's impossible to keep oil on it. I've got a cheaper live center that chatters bad. I wonder if they make good ones that do not chatter.
@@WinkysWorkshop It's hard to judge how tight a dead center is when using with a chuck.. Usually a dead center is used in the headstock and tailstock and the work is driven by a dog engaged to a slot in a dog driver or faceplate...In this way, it is easy to check for binding, that is the work is not binding but not loose... It is important to remember that when work gets hot, it expands therefore a good operator checks for biinding often specially on long work where much heavy turning is done..White or red lead mixed with machine oil is a very good lubricant.. Just don't eat it.. lol.. Mike in Louisiana
@@ramsay19481 - Yep... I learned that pretty quick but it's a very fine line between too tight and chatter.
I like your prints
Thanks... hopefully they are understandable.
Excellent! I've been looking for an older Canedy-Otto drill press like I have at work which is on dovetail ways for table and quill adjustment. In the mean time, I have a few drill presses hanging around my shop. I'm going to do this. Thanks for the effort and sharing.
You are welcome. Judging by the popularity of this video (11,800 views in 6 days is a lot!) this is a problem many people would like to fix. Drill press manufactures should be taking notice! It would be relatively easy to manufacturer a double column drill press. No need for dovetailed ways. In fact a Shop Smith does this.
There are a number of other manufacturers that made box column drill press. Leland-Gifford, Avey, Fosdick, Edlund, Footburt, and Cincinnati Bickford all made box column drill presses. Since they're industrial grade machines most of them are going to be three phase and will be to large for a small shop. However Leland-Gifford did make a small version (model 1LMS) of a box column DP that would fit in a garage shop without a problem. I have a Leland-Gifford model 2LMS in my shop which is my go to drill press 95 percent of the time.
@@ssmt2 - Interesting. I've never seen one. It stands to reason that something like this would have been made at some point. I have seen dovetailed columns on drill presses but not the box. I think a double tube column would be a cost effective way for a drill press manufacturer to make drill presses but maybe shop smith holds a patent on this idea.
Just to clear up any possible confusion a drill press where the table and quill assembly ride on dovetailed ways is called a box column drill press. Google images of a Leland-Gifford box column DP to see what I'm referring to.
Through the years I've owned a couple of these. The difference between one of these and a standard issue round column drill press is night and day. I bought my first box column DP at an auction in 1996 when Grumman Aerospace was selling off their equipment on Long Island. It was a Leland-Gifford. I had a 15 inch Walker-Turner in my shop at the time. I had them next to each other and the W-T looked like a bench top drill press next to the L-G. The L-G was eight feet tall and weighed about 1500 pounds. The table on the L-G probably weighed more than the entire W-T DP. Anyway, after a day or two of using the L-G I realized how far superior it was to the W-T and I sold the W-T. As you already know,a table that remains centered when you raise or lower it is a nice feature.
Google Burgmaster turret drill to check out a double tube design. Burgmaster is long out of business but their drill presses are still out there being used. Speaking of Burgmaster, there is a book called "When the Machine Stopped" , written by Max Holland, that tells about their demise as well as the demise of America's machine tool industry. It was published in 1989 but I think that it's basic premises about business practices in America still hold true.
@@ssmt2 - Thanks for the clarification on the box column. I absolutely love the modification I made to mine. I think the next step will be to replace my x y table. I'll have to say that the x y table is a huge improvement but the one I made has it's limitation. With larger drills the table flexes. Still it has allowed me to do a lot fairly precision work.
Excellent build Sir. You are awesome! I also enjoyed watching you work.
(Your drawing did not show the eccentric but we all know it is there). ;-) I'm just picking on you.
Great job and Thank You for sharing. New Subscriber.
Thanks you very much. If you look at the second pin in the drawing you will see the eccentric on the reduced 1/2" diameter part on the very end of the pin. This is the only area that is offset (on both ends of course).
seems like a pretty extreme solution for such an annoying problem lol. but fair play to you very interesting to watch and you did a good job!
True... and that's why I put it off for so long. However, now that it is done I with I had done it years ago.
Great project - thanks for sharing.
Thanks again!
Your welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
I modified my small chinese mill to add about 18" of vertical travel on the head. After trying a couple of different gearmotors on it, I ended up with a cheap 2 speed corded drill. Crude, noisy,
but effective and it's been reliable. Been using of for a few years. I think I got the drill for about $25.00
Yeah... that is a cheap way to go. I used a HF drill on my wood lathe feed. It works good but like you said, very noisy.
Glad I have a garbage mill in addition to the drill press! Another option is if a guy has a shopsmith. That makes a good drill press with a little more flexibility too. Good ideas here.
Over all I'm not very fond of the "do all" machines but the shop smith has a couple of good option. The drill press also makes a great horizontal boring machine.
Nice project! Why not use a 3/8 0r 1/2" air ratchet to power it up?
Good thinking... I actually considered that but they have a lot of vibration. An air motor geared down air motor of any type would be an option.
For those who don't have a welder, you could loctite the plug (for the centre hold for tailstock support) in, or turn a slight taper on it and knock it in, perhaps.
Thats a good idea!
You come up with some good ideas on your channel but this one has the potential to be the best. Nice work. It's a bit overbuilt but hell -you wont regret that if it all works. It'd be nice to have a detent for when the table is square - maybe you can think of something.
That's a great compliment, thanks. Yeah, I was thinking a pin for the table angle.
Love your work and ideas. Simple addition, throw some concrete down the gusts to stiffen and dampen resonance. Flathead no longer latest subscriber :-)
I might also weld or even bolt on some gussets on going from the feet to the column. I probably should have used something a little larger to support the column. It's plenty strong it would be nice if it was a it more solid.
Been watching some of your good videos, thanks. What I am interested in is your belt grinder, seems simple and very useful.would you be willing to send me more detail.
Thanks, send me mark21056 at gee male
Very nicely thought out and executed. I believe you have a round column mill/drill. Have you considered doing something similar for it? I recently obtained a Grizzly G0705 mill/drill and many people put these down because one loses indexing if one needs to raise or lower the head during a job.
Thanks! Yep... I have the dreaded round column mill! It's a pain at times and I do plan to do something about it although it's a bit more challenging than the drill press.
On the offset turning you could drill an offset "center" hole and uss
that. Be sure to use an indicator to make sure that the shaft is really "square".
I spoke too soon!
I did use an offset hole although I didn't use an indicator. I check it by checking contact to the tool in my tool holder. Maybe not quite as accurate but very close.
Brilliant
Thanks Bob!
I like it
On the tap with the center drill alignment method - You could make a tapping guide block (5/8"-3/4" thick block with the tap OD drilled thru it) and clamp it to the part to keep the tap aligned when you start the tap. I have a 5/8"-2-3 block with all the different tap sizes drilled through it. I don't always clamp it to the work but with your larger tap - that may work better than the center drill method. You could also use a spring loaded live center (lathe) in the drill chuck.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, tap guides are a little better than a center but neither one is great. This is what I use now It was a fair amount of work to make but works fantastic. I wish i had used a higher quality tap wrench to make is from but for now it's holding up. th-cam.com/video/ADYdezM8uMU/w-d-xo.html
Suggestion at 3:40, save time and improve rigidity by not cutting off the part of round column that could slide inside of square column. Rather, simply mill two slots in opposite sides of the round column, each slot being the thickness of the square tube walls for a tight fit. After fitting the round tube onto the square tube, use a long welding rod to reach down inside the square tube and weld some tacks or short beads down the back side, to tie the tubes together in a way that takes full advantage of the round tube's beam structure. Great video, thanks for contributing this.
That's a good idea. The top of the tube is beveled so accessing the tube for welding would be easy. In my case, the tube I used was a part from a high pressure pump. I turned about an 1/8 inch off it but it was still 1/2" thick. No chance of this tube flexing. However, if somebody was using a thinner tube (like from their drill press column) what you suggest would be an excellent idea. Thanks!
That is a great idea! I’ve been fighting this for so long, and you are right. Just easier to use the mill.
Speaking of mills, what kind do you have?
My mill is an Enco although it is the same as an RF-30. I wouldn't want to use it commercially but it's very adequate for what I do. The biggest negative is that it also has round column! For milling the round column is not much of an issue but for drilling it is... of course now that I have the drill press fixed I'll do most my drilling on the drill press.
Draw a vertical line on the wall next to your drill. Put a mirror across the room. Attach a laser to your drill press table. Adjust it so it hits the mirror and is reflected back to your line on the wall. Move your drill press table to the desired height and swing it around until your laser lines up with the line on the wall. If the distance from your machine to the mirror is 25 feet, it would be like attaching a 50 foot pointer to your drill press. The accuracy potential is quite clear.
I've seen people do that with a mill too. It works well but it's also a pain to realign every time you move the table.
Bruce Witham in Australia makes and markets a kit to solve the same problem on your round post milling machine
You could either buy it or maybe copy it. I could do with one for my own milling machine.
Thanks, I looked it up... Interesting. I think that's a good idea although I would do it slightly different.
>hand crank to raise and lower via a screw:
Future upgrade: counterweight it like every other drill press I've used for manual work in an industrial environment.
No need for hand cranks or expensive motors. KISS principle.
I love the hand crank although a motor would be even better. I had a counter weight on the drill press before I modified it, it was a pain to move. Most industrial drill presses I've seen do have a hand crack but I'll admit, I've only seen 4 or 5 of them.
great job
I don't have your problem, because my drill press is 20" and floor standing, but for precise drilling of steel and big holes, the big table flexes down, so I'm "thinking" of a "knee mill" type rig with acme screw to support the table, still lost in the imaginary details LOL
Wow... that's a great idea. The sliding section on my new column flexes about .010 with a lot of pressure but my x y table is the real problem. It flexes a lot more. Most the stuff I drill is less than 1/2" so it hasn't been a problem. For light work it seems to be as accurate as my mill.
So cool, and that was at 2:00 in, still watching
Thanks! I can honestly say, after installing an X Y table this square column drill press has been the most useful tool in my shop. I used it almost daily. Much easier (and faster) that setting up my mill. I don't understand why this is not an option on commercially available drill presses.
That's a nice job on the conversion! About the only thing that I think that you could improve on is, instead of using the 1/2"-13 threaded rod, use either a 5/8"-8 or a 3/4"-6 acme threaded rod. A 36" length is pretty cheap on Ebay. So are the nuts. Or you could make a brass nut on your lathe. That, in conjunction with some type of automatic oiler for the rod, would be a huge improvement over the 1/2"-13 rod. You could also get away without a motor for adjusting the table height, although it would still be a nice feature to have. Again, very nice work!!
I agree, the acme threads would have been better. I could have made the threaded pin out of brass also.Both would have reduced friction a bit and made the table travel faster. I'm not sure about the automatic oiler. Cutting acme threads through the side of a brass rod on the lathe is doable. I've never cut acme threads but I'm always up for an interesting challenge.
If I were doing this I would design something to hold a chunk of thick felt against the threaded rod above and below the roller bearing shaft. Soak the felt in oil so that it wicks on to the threads and every once in a while squirt some more oil on it when it starts to dry out.
@@ssmt2 - That's a great idea!
I'm late getting in on this but could you not just gear up a small chain with a crank so you only have 6 cranks instead of 12 or whatever ratio you want.
Dale in Canada
Suggestion use a windshield wiper motor and a 12 volt DC power supply to power the lift with DC it easy to setup bidirectional turning the lead screw and it's cheap.
Several others have suggested the same, thanks! I'll be trying this!
Good video sar
Which program do you use to make your part drawings? New to this"digital" age but would like to try it.
I use Sketchup which is free for home use. It's a great tool and I like it but I have heard several say Fusion360 is better. While I'm sure other CAD programs are more capable Sketchup does more than I will ever need. If you ever want to do CNC go with Fusion. Sketchup isn't so good with CNC.
Hope you don't mind but I used some of your ideas for my drill press I used a 4x6 I beam for the main support and I used bicycle front wheel hubs for the runners
I don't mind at all... I think it's great that you used my idea. Good idea on the bicycle hub. Also part two has a link to some drawings... of course the dimensions will all be different in your case.
Nice build. A smaller chuck on a 1/2" shank to hold your center drill would have solved your problem. For the Mill Drill get R8 tool holders as well as R8 collets. Often solves some of your height problems there too. In combination with the small chuck. I also have some reamers with shortened shanks for the mills in my shop.
Good work around methods, I've since replaced the crank on the drill press with a drill motor which almost instantly moved my table height so no real need for a work around. I also installed an x y table (or mill table). This drill press is super convenient (which was my primary goal) I guess you could say, no need to plan ahead now. On the mill drill I made a center drill holder which basically allows me to run the head higher but I still need to plan ahead. Whoever invented a mill drill with a round column didn't have their head screwed on right. Also, I can not imagine why somebody isn't selling a drill press with a dove tailed column. If it was well made I'd be the first to buy one!
25:08 ... you can just toss that ratcheting tap handle away and use the tap by itself though. Turn it with the other style tap handle or with an adjustable wrench.
It doesn't ratchet and the other style tap handle doesn't have a prevition for a center to keep the tap aligned. Same with a adjustable wrench
A DRO would be nice for your equipment. Been watching them for years and hope to find one I can afford. Not going to use those little LCD units cause those button batteries don't last.
I bought a $29 DRO on Amazon for my long axis and absolutely love it. The battery lasted 3 month but if I remembered to turn it off I'd say it would last for years. I need to buy two more!
colon drive lift & lower motor can be achieved with a mobility scooter , dc motor & worm gear gearbox or a wiper motor and even an reclining chair motor & gearbox will work comply with screw .les england . interesting concept have done simlers ,
I used a harbor freight drill for the lift. With a coupon I got it for $12 bucks. It works great.
When turning the cylinder you said that your lathe would only handle about 10 thou per pass, ...why is that? Is the motor to small, or too much chatter, or what?
Trying to learn what types of things I need to take into account in obtaining a lathe. Thanks - really appreciate your videos.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed my videos. This drill press is extremely handy. Yes, the lathe is 1/2 HP. The larger you go in diameter the more HP is takes. I could probably have slowed it down and taken a larger cut. In fact I think it was going too fast. Of course slowing it down would also slow the carriage so you really don't gain a lot. Chatter may have also been an issue (can't remember). I was using a live center in the tail stock and they don;t support the work very well. It was a cheap live center..... it could be that a more expensive live center would work better.
this is the only thing i have not done yet.its a winter project for sure.
I lot of work but in my opinion, well worth the effort!
You can also power it with a 3/8 drill and a variable speed router controller.
Yes, I did that with the feed on my wood lathe. Thanks I may do that.
Excellent solution to a problem many of have with our drill press. Not sure why you didn't turn your spindles between centres. Solves concentrically issues especially with keeping eccentric surfaces parallel with the rest of the shaft.
Thanks! Up until a few month ago I didn't have a face plate or center to fit my head stock so I guess I'm in the habit of doing without. However, unless my tail stock is off center or I removed the piece from the chuck everything should be concentric. The threaded holes could be a little off because I had to flip the pin to drill and tap but the pin doesn't index to the bolt anyway.
@@WinkysWorkshop have you tried turning a dead center in the chuck and driving the lathe dog off of a chuck jaw?
@@SW-ii5gg I have a face plate now so no but I think that would be the same as using a chuck.
@@WinkysWorkshop that is what we did if we wanted to turn something between centers at the electric motor shop I worked at, we had nothing but 4 jaw chucks for 5 of the 7 lathes in the machine shop. Most of the lathe dogs had varnish and chains hanging from them from being used to dip armatures.
Yah think a I beam with a few of the castered lanyard setups connected with that plate setup would provide comparable performance but offering u
Maybe like an over head crane is set up. My only concern would be the rough finish on the I beam
I wanted to ask you winky what kind of lathe you have there?
The one in this video is a 1942 Logan 200. I now have a 1947 Logan 820 which is basically the same lathe but with a quick change gear box for threading and changing feed rates.
wait a second , you built a milling machine ! (-'
Nah... just a better drill press. But yeah.... the table moves like a mill.
Do u have a video of a build of the drill press?
Just the column and table. You are watching it here.
You should look at doing the same thing to that milling machine.
Absolutely! Although replacing the mill might be a better option.
Πολύ καλό φίλε Καλημέρα
Αυτό είναι ένα πολύ χρήσιμο εργαλείο στο κατάστημά μου
Probably would have been easier to use an angle grinder to cut that piece out of the heavy pipe, then use the mill to clean up where the cut was. That way you wouldn't have had to hog out all that metal.
Bandsaw would have been best but as you said, you didn't have one.
I agree although it actually milled fairly easy. I also have a band saw now. A cheap one but it works great.
Is that a Logan Lathe you have?
Yes. It's a 1942 Logan 200 in the video but I now have a 1947 820 with the quick change gear box.
May I ask what drawing software you use?
Thanks in advance.
Yes, I use Sketchup. It does what I need and compared to some other software it seems to be more intuitive. It used to be free for home use but now they only have an on line line version that is free (and not very good). The down loaded version is about $400 per year which is out a reach for most home users. I think Sketchup missed a huge opportunity. The should have targeted the DIY users at $100 per year. I have an old 2016 purchased version. It works well but you can't get plug ins for it anymore. I would find another software. Don't feed their greed. If I didn't already have the program I would not use it.
@@WinkysWorkshop thanks for the info, of course $100 is magic for me since it is only £77, but 77 x 4 seems a little less affordable!
@@pcka12 Yeah, I think $400 is too much.
I can not find the video of the cut off tool support. Has it been taken down?
Yeah, I had a lot of negative comments on the video and also had problems myself. I think most the problem was a weak insert holder and perhaps low quality inserts. After maybe 6 or 8 cuts the insert would dull slightly and then wipe out the tool holder. I have a newer design that works much better if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/w-d-xo.html
Check out the new tool holder (link in my second reply) but if you are still interested in the old design send me an email and I'll send you some info and pictures. - Thanks! winkysworkshop@gmx.com
You could use a used windscreen wiper motor to make a powerdrive. Would cost about a tenner at the breakers.
The power supply is the problem. I ended up using a Harbor Freight drill I got for about $12 bucks
@@WinkysWorkshop Power is a problem with DC engines. I have a golf cart battery in my workshop that is on a constant trickle charger. I use it to drive a motorlift and a home build lathe. Needs some decent size cables to run but has all the power you need.
@@dutchsailor6620 The low voltage system is an interesting idea. Thanks!
Why not put a keyway in the column and the bracket for the table so the table moves vertically?
I did think about a parallel guide. The column isn't thick enough for a key. Some drill presses have a rack gear for the lift mechanism that can be used as a key although you have to attach the key to the column and push the table to one side before you lock the table.
Enjoyed the video. Hey Winky use a motor from a car like the seat positioner motor, window motor, wiper motor. The only problem is they need a power supply but you can get one cheap on ebay. Would like to get an email from you hswatersatyahoodotcom.
Power 12v motors for this on whatever lawnmower, jet-ski, deep-cycle/trolling or motorcycle battery you keep on a maintainer when not otherwise in season. Surplus Center typically has a broad selection of 12v wiper and gear-motor options, as well as 120v gear-motors and worm-drive linear actuators. Agreed, awesome video. :-)
What kind of wood did u use on your car
Red Oak.. the original was Ash but I had a lot of oak.
@@WinkysWorkshop you do good work nice shop
don't overlook windshield wiper motors. They are geared and have gobs of torque.
I need to get a few of these motors just to play with. They could be useful in many areas as long as i can find a cheap power supply.
Why were you using a parting tool to turn with?
Because it's really a grooving tool that can be used for parting and its designed to cut side to side between two shoulders. It beats the heck out of using a left and right cutting tool to cut square against the shoulders. It actually cuts very fast and smooth.
@@WinkysWorkshop I agree. A grooving tool is much more often useful than a left-hand knife tool, and just about as good
@@Gottenhimfella Yep, this grooving tool used a GTN-3 insert and it works exceptional laterally.
@@WinkysWorkshop I found a GTN-6 insert and holder combo on eBay, at pennies on the dollar (I'm guessing because not many lathes are rigid enough for a 6mm wide parting-off tool, and the holder was not proportionately deep, so it would not be ideal for parting in any case.) It's great for side turning, as you say.
how about getting a spring loaded tap follower/
Yes I need one!
!!!
Looking forward to your end results ! I've been contemplating a very similar idea , but I want to have a bit more accuracy . 'Standard' welded square tubing has quite a bit of tolerance that needs to be factored into the build.
I've made some fret leveling bars for stringed instruments with 1" x 2" tubing . . . which took quite a bit of hand labor to make 'flat' ! Standard allowances for twist , & deviation from angular squareness proved to be far more than I 'assumed' !
www.speedymetals.com/information/Material59.html
With the above in mind; I'm planning on attaching a plate to the front of the column , to act as a 'guide'. ( which will need to be made square to the spindle axis ) One step at a time ;) Maybe I can get lucky in my salvage yard hunting . . . and 'find' parts that would be more suitable than introducing 'off the shelf' errors !
I really like your design for adjustability ! Thanks for sharing Winky ! "V"
I was thinking the same although you might be surprised at how true the square tubing is. Plus, I won;t be doing any milling on my drill press. If you drill a hole and then use a reamer you could be off .020 or 030 and the reamer would follow the hole anyway. Technically the hole would be slightly angled but I doubt it would even be measurable.
Oh... Part 2 will be posted later today. Thanks.
The plate to the front of the column might be a good idea. Maybe I got lucky on my tubing but the tolerance seems to be very good.
George, you got me thinking. I just put a 1/2 x 12 inch rod in my chuck and tapped the end with a hammer until the run out was near zero at the bottom. Then I put a dial indicator at the top and ran the table down. From side to side it was near perfect (+ or - .001") although it moved .007" when I tightened the slide to the column (expected) and it was consistent from top to bottom. Front to back (parallelism to the column) was maybe .005" to .007" off from top to bottom with almost no change when i locked the slide to the column. These results are freaking me out, I had no expectation of ever getting this close. In fact I felt a little rush when I was setting up for welding at my friends shop and I was worried about the top tube being welded parallel to the column. Video coming soon :o)
A little slower on the spindle speed and a touch of cutting oil would be good.
Very interesting project. Thanks for posting.
Eric
Use an old corded drill motor to drive your table lift.
Great minds think alike :o) I used a harbor freight 3/8" corded drill. It works great!
That's going to be really difficult to weld to that cardboard box. ;)
Ha!
@Timothy -- Really? You can weld to duct tape?
29:13 Use a Bar Clamp
True... I use them a lot actually.
Winky aint messin aroun....
Thanks... Honestly this is the most used feature in my shop.
Winky, for those of us who are hearing impaired, how about investing in a lapel mic? You can get a pretty good one for less than $20. I can't make out what you are saying because if the echo.
Thanks David, I definitely need to work on this. A while back I bought one of this mics and it was terrible. I paid about $50 for it hoping to get a good one. Maybe I need to try another one. I also tried to boost the volume for my voice. Oddly enough it made distortion. One thing I can do it reduce machine noise so you can turn up the volume on your end. I mike the label mic idea the best however... Thanks for your input, I appreciate you taking the time to let me know.
surplus center for cheap gear motors
I check there... they have some low voltage gear motors but nothing 110 that is lose to the right RPM. However, I just put a Harbor Freight 3/8 corded drill on it. It works great and I it for $8
Buy a Shopsmith, it solves everything.
That's what I've heard. They also work great for a horizontal boring machine. I'm not fond of "do all" machines but you could certainly leave it set up as a drill press all the time. I think they also take up a lot of space which is an issue for me... but my memory is also a bit foggy, it;s been 20+ years since I've seen one.
Tools needed for this project.
1: Lathe
2: Mig welder
Why bother to go on, I do not and for the foreseeable future, will not have a lathe!
I guess its about priorities. Up until 10 years ago all I had was a grinder, drill press and some woodworking tools. About 40 years ago I had a Lincoln welder but sold it. Hey... if you every get a welder, bypass the MIG and get a TIG.
surprised your mill or lathe are unable to do threading operations.
I'm not sure what you mean. I've never threaded on my mill but I cut threads all the time on my lathe.
What I mean is set feed, and speed to tap threaded holes, IE 1/2- 13 would move 13 rotations per inch.
@@justastudentoftheworld3940 - I'm still not following... are you saying I should have made my own threaded rod ? Threading a 3-foot rod on a 2 foot lathe is tricky.
No, when you are tapping holes in the ends of the bearing axles, on the lathe. can't you set the feed, and speed to cut threads, peck it in, when at depth back it out, same on the mill.
@@justastudentoftheworld3940 - that can be tricky and I have done this. The lathe really doesn't go slow enough and the mill definitely doesn't. They do make high speed taps that sends the shavings out of the hole. I tapped 161 holes with one in the lathe before it broke. Still... it would be a lot better if the lathe went slower and had a brake.
that mill drill has the same problem with losing location due to the round column. I know because I have one. wish I had never bought the damn thing
You are exactly right, I'm fairly happy with my mill now that I have the drill press fixed. I don't have to move the head very often for milling. Certainly I would love to have a bridgeport or something similar but my mill does what I need, doesn't take up much space and it did't cost me much.
@@WinkysWorkshop I do have a Bridgeport :-) but my drill press has the same round column as yours. Additionally, the throat depth is a bit small (as well as having wobbly spindle). Building a square column would enable extending the throat as well as keeping the workpiece alignment if the vertical height needs to be adjusted.
As you said, the precision is adequate for you using the square tubing. However if you ever decide to put a square column on your drill mill, it might not be enough. I suggest using ground flat stock bolted to the sides of the square tubing. It can be had in already hardened steel but I'd suggest using air hardening ground stock so you can harden it after drilling mounting holes and alignment pin holes (for dowel pins).
The ground flat stock can be a bit pricey but if you need the precision then it would be worth it (especially for a drill mill).
As I said above, I'd mount the flat ground stock on the column sides and have the guide rollers ride on the edges. Alignment (before drilling and reaming for the alignment pins and mounting bolts) can be done by several methods. If you have a reference surface plate, that would be best. Using your drill mill table would (should) be a second best reference and lastly, a good table saw top would suffice. If none of these are available or good enough, a jig riding on the flat ground stock edge using a small laser projecting a beam across the shop should be pretty good for determining that the two pieces of flat ground stock are parallel. I'll leave the details of that method as an exercise for student :-)
BTW, as you (should) know, drill press chucks are (usually) mounted using standard tapers jammed in which can loosen when side loads are applied. Thus using a drill press for milling is not recommended.
@@tlum4081 - very true although it would not address the wobbly spindle. My drill press is a Dayton. In some regards it's terrible. The original column was too thin and so was the base and it was very unstable. I modified the belt guard, it was a joke and made it hard to change speeds. The table had no way to lift it (Loosen and hang on). I tried to get the chuck off but could not figure it out. I called Dayton for a manual and they said, "we never made a drill press with that model number". I emailed a pic of the name plate and she said, "we have no record of this drill press". On the plus side, it has a split housing at the quill (super important) and a 6-inch quill travel. Oh yeah... and the motor mount holes in the casting were driller crooked. It mounts on two rods and they get stuck because the holes are not parallel. I've had 2 other drill presses and the slop in the quill made it impossible to start a hole accurately. The split housing is great and the 6 inch travel is very nice too.
Stubby drills are shorter.
@@WinkysWorkshop The wobbly spindle on my drill press is something I need to address someday. Probably the quill just needs a shim or such in the poorly machined head casting. There is no split for making an adjustment. For my needs, it hasn't been a critical issue. If I need better accuracy, I now have my Bridgeport :-) Besides, I have an Albrecht key less chuck for the Bridgeport which is beautifully made and precise. Quite expensive though!
My drill press is a "no name" made in Taiwan model I bought at an early Texas home improvement store some time about 1980 (long before Home Depot and Lowes) which is also long gone. As I said, the throat distance is a bit small and your video gave me ideas to replace the column and base . Anyway I've been looking at my machine and envisioning how to extend the throat. Like your DP (Drill Press), the motor on my DP is in the way of just putting a horizontal piece of tubing to increase the throat. I noticed the angled piece you added to your column to just miss the motor. That is, until it occurred to me that I could relocate the motor further back on a suitable mount and use a longer belt. I could easily fabricate a suitable belt guard. I have to be careful to not go overboard with increasing the throat distance. One "insane thought" I had was to make it into a "radial arm drill press" with the head extend able on a slide. However, that is probably a solution to the question no one (or myself) has asked.
Since I have a Bridgeport mill, I might mill some lands (or add some flat stock on the column sides) on the column tubing for the table bracket bearings to ride on. This is probably ridiculous overkill but why not since I have the mill.
As others have suggested, I would either motorize the lift or just put a nut on the threaded rod and use my cordless drill or impact driver. My drill press has a nice rack and worm to elevate the drill table, but unless I figure out how to remove the "worm" from the table casting that will have to be another project.
You should not stack dimensions.
You mean on the plans?
Hey Wink. I don't know what you do for a profession (teaching)? you should be in product development. Stay healthy.
Thanks for the compliment. I just retired a bit over a year ago. Before that I works designing machine improvements in the printing industry. (web offset magazine). I loved my job but it did't pay very well, I didn't have the engineering degree. To some degree I was also in charge of trouble shooting and training. Thanks again!
Most good drill presses already have a had cranked table on them.
Why are you reaming on a drill press with the table locked? Great way to inaccurately ream a hole and possibly even break a reamer. On a drill press You should have the table loose (X&y axis) when reaming so the reamer is following the drilled hole.
The same for enlarging holes, you should have the table loose. Even when doing the initial centre drill the drill press table should be loose so the centre drill is filling the initial centre punch.
Seems to me you are fixing a problem that only exists because you are using the wrong technique for drill press.
Nice build even though totally unnecessary.
I understand your reasoning but if everything stays aligned there is no reason to let the table float. What you are doing is a working around a problem caused by a for a round column. By your logic you could never use a reamer on a mill which of course you do. With the mill and an x y table I never center punch holes but even if I did, drilling an 1/8" pilot hole wouldn't be very accurate if the table floats as there is no way an 1/8" drill is going to pull a heavy table into alignment.
@@WinkysWorkshop my point is that drill presses are inherently inaccurate due to their low quality and type of bearings and their low quality and style of quill and their low quality drill chuck. If they went they'd be called mills instead of drill press.
So yes, you should drill and ream on a mill with X&y axis locked, but not on a drill press.
Btw Do you really think when you change drills or change to reamer that your drill chuck isn't giving some runout?
What you were doing is trying to turn your drill press into a pseudo mill, which is fine if you don't have and can't afford s mill, but you're still stuck with the inferior head with its lousy bearing quality and design and the same can be said for the Quill and chuck.
@@russhellmy - Many drill presses are very good quality and the amount of run out will be insignificance especially compared to a loose table forces involved with letting the bit move the table. In fact, my drill press is less than .0005 run out (see the last of 3 videos). The biggest difference between a mill and a drill press is the amount of lateral pressure the quill and bearings can take without defection. In my opinion leaving the table loose is a very bad idea even on a round column. If nothing else the table drops in the front when you loosen the clamp. I used to have a worn out drill press where a center drill would walk all over the surface if you did'n't first use a center punch but that was a worn bearing fit.... still no reason to let the table move around.
You didn't do it right. But its a great idea anyway, and should work okay...
I wasn't aware there was a right way, it works very well, perhaps an acme thread would have worked better but I suspect the 1/2"-13 all thread will last my lifetime. After make the video I installed a cheap 3/8" drill to power the table up and down. The table is extremely accurate. Actually very surprising as it was al based on getting the top tube mounted squarely. Apparently I did! I suppose I could have got a chunk of cast iron and milled some dovetailed slide.... Bottom line, I can easily locate a hole within .005" when combined with my x y table. It's never let me down... hands down the most used tool in my shop!
Okay, I took the bait. What would you have done different?
@@WinkysWorkshop I've built a lot of these surplus bearing/rectangular tube ways/slides. (BTW, I literally have tons of bearings, if you should ever need more).
I usually build a triangulated bearing housing. I make 90 degree flanges to fit the corners of the tubing, which are pressed onto the bearing rims. If you are having trouble visualizing what I'm describing... it looks somewhat like a beam trolley, when assembled.
If I am in a hurry, I just take two lengths of angle iron, and mount a small bearing on both sides, at each end of both pieces. I mount the bearings with eccentric bolts, so that I can adjust the alignment and tension of each bearing individually. Then I just frame these pieces up so that the bearings are riding against opposing corners of the Rectangular tubing.
I have discovered (the hard way) that the corners are by far both the hardest, strongest, and the most accurate areas on the tubing. And obviously, when the "trolley" is mounted under tension across the corners, it does not have any slop or free play.
Considering it's intended purpose, he worst aspects I see wrong with your design (things that I would actually change at this point) are:
(#1) the flimsy looking down-legs which mount your front bearings: The thickness of the material looks sufficient, but I would make them wider at the top, and triangulate down. That would make it considerably more sturdy, and a lot more professional looking.
And (#2) You need to put some good covers over those bearings, (along with efficient way wipers), to keep drill shavings out of that crevice just above where the bearings meet the tubing... Otherwise, I promise you that pinch point area will quickly fill up with all manner of dirt, shavings, etc... and since your setup is not under precise tension, when it gets between your bearings and the tubing, they will simply roll right over it, subtly change your table angle, and knock your accuracy off, just at the most inconvenient time.
@@michaelangelo8001 - Thanks for the great reply. Yes corners would have been better. I just didn't think about that. It would have eliminated the chance of friction between the post and side plate and the possibility or lateral movement if my fit was off. Neither have been an issue thankfully (somewhat surprised on that). The tube was made incredibly well and it's 3/8" think. Mounting at the corners would have complicated leveling adjustments a bit.
The bracing for the bottom support is a little weak. I get some flexing and I'm pretty sure that where the problem is. I thought about doing exactly as you said with a triangle or wider plate. Also, the bracket are held by too bolts which is not ideal. In fact I left them only snug and then adjusted the table level and then tightened the bracket bolts to account for screw clearance. It should have been pinned or welded. (good observation).
Thanks for the insight... love this type of comment.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yeah, no one gets everything right the first time.
Overall, it's not a bad design for that application. Just needs a little fine tuning... I'd definitely widen those legs on top, attach them more securely, and add some type of stiffening brace in between about halfway down.
Regarding the lifting screw, I would have used a larger diameter for a screw of that length, to prevent torquing and flexing issues. However I do think it was very wise that you placed yours in the center back of the carriage. That was the best possible location.
You would be surprised how many people would have hung it on one side, or some other awkward location that would cause binding and uneven lifting forces.
@@michaelangelo8001 - The lift screw works great although I occasionally lubricate it. The HF drill I use to power the screw works great. Certainly this project isn't perfect but it works amazingly well. I can't figure out why a major manufacturer of drill presses hasn't made something similar. The old camelback drill presses has dovetailed tables!