@@dailywheelies12i have 2015 lincoln mkc which looks to have same stupid system setup, ahy idea where i can find the sensor plug and put a resistor on it
If mine in my 2013 f150 goes bad I’m going to drill a 1” hole with a hole saw and extract the sensor out, then just use a rubber plug to seal the hole. That’s a ton of work there.
Hello, I have a 2018 Police Interceptor 3.7. It came in with a/c not getting cold enough, acted like compressor or txv was bad. Installed 2 new compressors and 3 txv's. Still the same problem. On initial start up, a/c seems to work fine, pressures are in range for my ambient air temp. After about 30 sec. to a minute, compressor disengages, then starts to short cycle. My evaporator temp is dropping to 28-29* F. That's when the compressor disengages. Could this possibly be an evaporator temp sensor fault? Thanks
Hey, I have this black tart substance all around the evap temp sensor, probably old insulation. It looks like there may even be some on it. Do you think this could be problematic enough to give inaccurate readings and cause tue compressor to never cycle off and ultimately freeze the evap? Thanks for the video!
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for the response! I ended up successfully getting the gunk out. I found out that it was definitely opened and put back the blower side of the evaporator which makes me think it might not getting accurate readings because it's not reading the air passing through the evaporator so I'll have to keep messing with it. Wishing you well
Can I use other car brand evaporator temperature on my car(Mazda 3). Like I will use the evap sensor of Ford. Will it work..? I will just replace the socket to fit on my Mazda 3.. I hope you read my comment. Thank you..😊🙏
About four hours. You will definitely need an assistant. I pad the floor and roll the dash face down inside of the vehicle. They weigh a ton and removing from vehicle is a PITA.
Mazda 3 also has an evap temp sensor in the evaporator. You will need access to a scanner to see if it reads ambient temperature after sitting overnight and then see what it reads with the a/c turned on. A drastic high or low reading indicates a bad sensor.
That was supplied by our parts department. I just submit a parts request and they send one out. I do think it took a day to source out of the Portland warehouse
I have a police interceptor. Blows hot warm air while idling. Replaced fans, condenser, compressor and the two expansion valves. Still blows warm periodically but cools after a while. Does this mean the evap is going out?
It could be the evap temp sensor is intermittently reading the wrong temperature. You need to gain access to a scanner and monitor the evaporator temperature sensor when the problem is happening to see if the temperature reads way low.
@Rain City Wrench i have a 2007 hyundai it only blows the coldest setting regardless of what i choose the temprature to be, and the compressor is always engaged till it over heats in about 20 mins and it stops blowing cold unless i manually turn off the ac by pressing the ac button for a minute and turn it on back again blows cold for another 15 mins, can you help me, what could be the issue?
@@devo8730 Mazda 3 also has an evaporator temp sensor pressed into the evap core. If in question, need to have it scanned and check the sensor temperature to see if it is reading really high or low temp.
Don't think so. It sounds like the high pressure switch is causing the fans to come on. Some Fords have bad thermal expansion valves causing real high discharge pressure causing the fans to turn on all the time. You need to have an a/c machine installed and check the resting pressures. If the high side has way more pressure than the low side without the engine running then that's your problem.
@@raincitywrench117 What about a ac refrigerant pressure switch could that cause it? Thanks in advance. I’m trying to diagnose for my c320 2001 benz that has issue where it stays on like high all the time which it’s driving me nuts.
@@EndlessXConcertgoers88 Just entered your vehicle Identifix. Customer concern: "Cooling fan runs on high at all times" Got 20 hits for this issue all with bad ecm. "2001 Mercedes-Benz C240, 2.6L, V6, Engine Control Module (ECM) - tested red wire had 12 volts. brown wire had good ground .black and white wire had 12 volts with key on . green and blue wire had continuity from pcm and fan ac had a good charge . engine coolant sensor was working proper the cause was the ecm" Got 6 hits for "Replaced Auxiliary Radiator/Condenser Fan"
@@raincitywrench117 Appreciate bro, for helping me out! I removed the ecu prior and checking if the internal motherboard seems okay base on visual inspection. So I'm hoping it might be ac pressure switch before getting my ecu rebuild. But if you have any, tip on it please let me know?
I have a Ford Escape se 2016. do you think mines is the same way for the evaporator sensor? I scanned mines over and over and the same code pop up. it works for a few moment just burns to hell right after that.
Same type of setup. Here is what workshop says: NOTE: For vehicles built from July 22, 2014, the evaporator temperature sensor is not serviced separately. The evaporator temperature sensor is integral with the evaporator assembly and must be replaced as a complete unit. What code are you getting?
@@benniefitzgerald3695 B1B71 has three subcodes but all relate to evap temp sensor. Workshop says: Possible Sources •Wiring, terminals or connectors •Evaporator temperature sensor • BCM That being said, the weakest link and common failure item is the evap temp sensor without going though the pinpoint tests. And of course the whole box has to come out. Brilliant idea.
@@benniefitzgerald3695 Ford techs have access to workshop manual but not sure where the home mechanic can get that info. Maybe you can find one of your local shops that will print it off out of Mitchell on demand or Alldata? I'll see if I can somehow copy out of workshop and email.
Pls i feel my evap temp is bad the ac gets cold but the compressor disengage and at times it works very well other times it doesnt work well freon was filled correctly. I am thinking just maybe that little sensor might be faulty.
This definitely could be your problem. You will need a basic scanner to access & monitor the evap temp sensor data pid (parameter identification). What do you drive? I can enter your problem into indentifix and PTS to see if that will shed some light.
@@raincitywrench117 please i used a timer to check how long the compressor stays on before recycling. Ambient temp was at 84'f the compressor stays on approximately 20secs on fan speed 2. Pls is this normal
@@daisyirimagha3882 The 09 corolla uses a plastic torque limiter in the compressor pulley instead of a magnetic clutch like other vehicles. When I entered your vehicle into identifix the most common failure is the a/c compressor. To tell if the compressor is engaged you have to look at the center bolt in the compressor shaft to see if it is turning. That being said, you may have another issue. I would think the compressor should stay engaged longer with ambient temp of 84 degrees. At this point the only way I see to diagnose your problem is to get access to a scanner and watch the a/c compressor on PID, evaporator sensor PID, and high pressure sensor PID. If the evaporator sensor shows low temperature of like 38 degrees or lower then the compressor will stop running until the temperature rises.
This is wild. Not only do you have to buy the whole housing and can't just buy the tiny sensor, you have to take out that huge, monstrous dash to get to it. I laughed so much during this video watching the ridiculousness of it all.
Hello, i have problem on Nissan T31, the ac doesn't work. the magnetic clutch doesn't engage. However when I do self IPDM test, the clutch mechanism is functioning. I have checked pressure sensor physically and in good condition. Any thoughts?
Horrible! That looks painful to watch...all for just that 1 sensor.
They sure dont like to make the remedies easy. But you did Great work!
You can bypass the evaporator temperature sensor by using A simple resistor it might cost you $.50 A piece and you are looking for 10k or 15k ome
Where do you put the resistor?
@TheCheese4684 unplug the sensor, resistor goes between the two wires in the plug
That will get it to run but it wont shut off automatically. The evaporator will freeze up.
@@dailywheelies12i have 2015 lincoln mkc which looks to have same stupid system setup, ahy idea where i can find the sensor plug and put a resistor on it
Thinking of cutting the plastic box open and replacing the sensor if possible from wrecking yard and hot glue and silicone some plastic patch over it
If mine in my 2013 f150 goes bad I’m going to drill a 1” hole with a hole saw and extract the sensor out, then just use a rubber plug to seal the hole. That’s a ton of work there.
Not a bad idea 👍
Hello, I have a 2018 Police Interceptor 3.7. It came in with a/c not getting cold enough, acted like compressor or txv was bad. Installed 2 new compressors and 3 txv's. Still the same problem. On initial start up, a/c seems to work fine, pressures are in range for my ambient air temp. After about 30 sec. to a minute, compressor disengages, then starts to short cycle. My evaporator temp is dropping to 28-29* F. That's when the compressor disengages. Could this possibly be an evaporator temp sensor fault? Thanks
Hey, I have this black tart substance all around the evap temp sensor, probably old insulation. It looks like there may even be some on it. Do you think this could be problematic enough to give inaccurate readings and cause tue compressor to never cycle off and ultimately freeze the evap? Thanks for the video!
Most definitely. They need to be clean and make firm contact with the evaporator fins.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for the response! I ended up successfully getting the gunk out. I found out that it was definitely opened and put back the blower side of the evaporator which makes me think it might not getting accurate readings because it's not reading the air passing through the evaporator so I'll have to keep messing with it. Wishing you well
Can I use other car brand evaporator temperature on my car(Mazda 3). Like I will use the evap sensor of Ford. Will it work..? I will just replace the socket to fit on my Mazda 3.. I hope you read my comment. Thank you..😊🙏
How long did it take you to get the dash out? And did you need help? I need to replace my coil.
About four hours. You will definitely need an assistant. I pad the floor and roll the dash face down inside of the vehicle. They weigh a ton and removing from vehicle is a PITA.
What do you know about Mazda 3 2006 - 2009 models regarding this sensor ?
Mazda 3 also has an evap temp sensor in the evaporator. You will need access to a scanner to see if it reads ambient temperature after sitting overnight and then see what it reads with the a/c turned on. A drastic high or low reading indicates a bad sensor.
Great video! Where did you find the assembly?
That was supplied by our parts department. I just submit a parts request and they send one out. I do think it took a day to source out of the Portland warehouse
I have a police interceptor. Blows hot warm air while idling. Replaced fans, condenser, compressor and the two expansion valves. Still blows warm periodically but cools after a while. Does this mean the evap is going out?
It could be the evap temp sensor is intermittently reading the wrong temperature. You need to gain access to a scanner and monitor the evaporator temperature sensor when the problem is happening to see if the temperature reads way low.
@@raincitywrench117 and this is for a 2016 police explorer utility???
@Rain City Wrench i have a 2007 hyundai it only blows the coldest setting regardless of what i choose the temprature to be, and the compressor is always engaged till it over heats in about 20 mins and it stops blowing cold unless i manually turn off the ac by pressing the ac button for a minute and turn it on back again blows cold for another 15 mins, can you help me, what could be the issue?
An evaporator temp sensor that always read too high can definitely cause that. What model Hyundai?
@@raincitywrench117 What do you know about Mazda 3 2006 - 2009 models regarding this sensor ?
@@devo8730 Mazda 3 also has an evaporator temp sensor pressed into the evap core. If in question, need to have it scanned and check the sensor temperature to see if it is reading really high or low temp.
Curious can a faulty evap temp sensor effect the radiator fan to come on immediately when starting the engine?
Don't think so. It sounds like the high pressure switch is causing the fans to come on. Some Fords have bad thermal expansion valves causing real high discharge pressure causing the fans to turn on all the time. You need to have an a/c machine installed and check the resting pressures. If the high side has way more pressure than the low side without the engine running then that's your problem.
@@raincitywrench117 What about a ac refrigerant pressure switch could that cause it? Thanks in advance. I’m trying to diagnose for my c320 2001 benz that has issue where it stays on like high all the time which it’s driving me nuts.
@@EndlessXConcertgoers88 Just entered your vehicle Identifix. Customer concern: "Cooling fan runs on high at all times"
Got 20 hits for this issue all with bad ecm. "2001 Mercedes-Benz C240, 2.6L, V6,
Engine Control Module (ECM)
- tested red wire had 12 volts. brown wire had good ground .black and white wire had 12 volts with key on . green and blue wire had continuity from pcm and fan ac had a good charge . engine coolant sensor was working proper the cause was the ecm"
Got 6 hits for "Replaced Auxiliary Radiator/Condenser Fan"
@@raincitywrench117 Appreciate bro, for helping me out! I removed the ecu prior and checking if the internal motherboard seems okay base on visual inspection. So I'm hoping it might be ac pressure switch before getting my ecu rebuild. But if you have any, tip on it please let me know?
I have a Ford Escape se 2016. do you think mines is the same way for the evaporator sensor? I scanned mines over and over and the same code pop up. it works for a few moment just burns to hell right after that.
Same type of setup. Here is what workshop says: NOTE: For vehicles built from July 22, 2014, the evaporator temperature sensor is not serviced separately. The evaporator temperature sensor is integral with the evaporator assembly and must be replaced as a complete unit.
What code are you getting?
@@raincitywrench117 B1B71
@@benniefitzgerald3695 B1B71 has three subcodes but all relate to evap temp sensor. Workshop says:
Possible Sources
•Wiring, terminals or connectors
•Evaporator temperature sensor
• BCM
That being said, the weakest link and common failure item is the evap temp sensor without going though the pinpoint tests. And of course the whole box has to come out. Brilliant idea.
@@raincitywrench117 is there anyway to find information on how to take it out
@@benniefitzgerald3695 Ford techs have access to workshop manual but not sure where the home mechanic can get that info. Maybe you can find one of your local shops that will print it off out of Mitchell on demand or Alldata? I'll see if I can somehow copy out of workshop and email.
What did that job cost parts n labor?
I don't get to see the billing. The evaporator is around $300 plus labor.
Pls i feel my evap temp is bad the ac gets cold but the compressor disengage and at times it works very well other times it doesnt work well freon was filled correctly. I am thinking just maybe that little sensor might be faulty.
This definitely could be your problem. You will need a basic scanner to access & monitor the evap temp sensor data pid (parameter identification). What do you drive? I can enter your problem into indentifix and PTS to see if that will shed some light.
@@raincitywrench117 a 2009 toyota corolla
@@daisyirimagha3882 OK, will enter it into identifix tomorrow morning.
@@raincitywrench117 please i used a timer to check how long the compressor stays on before recycling. Ambient temp was at 84'f the compressor stays on approximately 20secs on fan speed 2. Pls is this normal
@@daisyirimagha3882 The 09 corolla uses a plastic torque limiter in the compressor pulley instead of a magnetic clutch like other vehicles. When I entered your vehicle into identifix the most common failure is the a/c compressor. To tell if the compressor is engaged you have to look at the center bolt in the compressor shaft to see if it is turning. That being said, you may have another issue. I would think the compressor should stay engaged longer with ambient temp of 84 degrees. At this point the only way I see to diagnose your problem is to get access to a scanner and watch the a/c compressor on PID, evaporator sensor PID, and high pressure sensor PID. If the evaporator sensor shows low temperature of like 38 degrees or lower then the compressor will stop running until the temperature rises.
What a joke, you worked your but off for a simple switch. Way to go.
Just another day in the life of a tech. LOL
This is wild. Not only do you have to buy the whole housing and can't just buy the tiny sensor, you have to take out that huge, monstrous dash to get to it. I laughed so much during this video watching the ridiculousness of it all.
Hello, i have problem on Nissan T31, the ac doesn't work. the magnetic clutch doesn't engage. However when I do self IPDM test, the clutch mechanism is functioning. I have checked pressure sensor physically and in good condition. Any thoughts?
Another one of Ford's famous better ideas. Ha Ha
One more reason too hate New fords
2012 ford fusion same this 😂