Excellent. Thanks. I am getting ready to replace all the major components in my 31-year-old '90 Yota pickup. I have never worked with AC systems before. You answered a lot of my questions about flushing the lines. You also saved me some big bucks as I was going to buy several cans of the expensive flush. I am now going to use the denatured alcohol. For you DIY guys if you are just doing a system once in a while almost all auto parts stores will loan you a flush can system so you don't have to make or buy one. cheers
Finally! I have black sludge in my system, pulled all the major components from a donor car and have been trying to find a video about how to clear my lines before I put the new/used parts on. Thanks Bro! Keep up the good work!
Nice video. I've only done a little A/C work. I remember using that expensive flush solvent on a tractor system one time. Using Denatured alcohol is a good tip, thanks.
Acetone will also work and may be purchased at Home Depot in the paint department . Residuals will evaporate from the flushed A/C lines. Acetone is flammable .
Good job. I am a retired refrigeration tech but only worked on commercial stuff. We have a desiel pusher with a defunct compressor and I know the system has to be flushed. Looks like a big job. Any idea where I may find that filter/orifice on our rig?
We need to invent a catch-screen or paper- coffee-filter-like to attach to the exit end hose to show evidence the flush was successful by catching the debris for examination. A coffee filter rubber banded or zip tied at the exit could reveal a lot during the flush process. The hole in my idea is exactly that. I expect the pressure of the air would rip the coffee filter to shreds therefore a metal screen would be necessary.
Good video! I have a question, if im changing every thing, ( compressor, condensor, evaporator, expancion valve acumulator) is it still necesary to flush the system?.
Hey bro you should put a check valve where your air fitting is that way the flush tool holds the content and put a shut off valve close to your sprayer
I have a 1986 grand national. When I flush out the evaporator on the bigger line solvent goes through. But when i flush it on the opposite line solvent doesn’t come through only air. Do you know why? You think it’s clogged? Btw the orfice tube broke off in the line
You will have to extract the broken orifice tube. Depending on how the evaporator is oriented it may require more fluid in one direction than the other.
How good is Denatured alcohol for flushing ? Did you ever opened and inspected the one u did before. Will it leave any residue or change color of pag oil ?
I dont. But yes you can install a water separator. the only issue is that i think it needs to be a certain distance from the compressor output in order to work correctly.
@@da324 but does it tho? All of the moisture gets vaccumed out by a professional machine? What about my cheap harbor freight vacuum pump, will that remove all the moisture when I vacuum down?
@@great2c4me Sure, I let mine run for an hr. I shut it off and come back one to two hrs later. If the gauges are still sub zero where they were when I walked off; you're good to go. Never had an issue that way.
Nice video thanks for sharing.when do you need to flush the system. I want to know because my car the compressor is cooling very nicely, but it’s making noise if I replace the compressor is it necessary to flush the system?
I like your do it yourself flush gun cylinder it’s even better than the ones they sell on the market because it looks like you can hold even more liquid 👍. If I was a DYI person working out of my garage and back shop for myself I would probably use alcohol to even though theoretically it’s not the best on aluminum parts there is a little corrosion factor thing going on there. But it’s only in contact for a short duration of time. And when alcohol it combined with fast-moving compressed air there there’s a chill factor that goes on in compressed air does have a lot of moisture in it actually a extreme amount of moisture mixed with the alcohol and the chilling affect condenses out into water droplet that coat the inside with liquid water. But nothing that leaving it on the vacuum pump overnight will not take care of. But of course that means an overnight vacuum not a one hour vacuum. You did a really good job of explaining the difference between the Microchannel parallel flow condensers that you cannot flush unfortunately you did not have a sample to show the people the larger round tube and fin construction you explained it good enough hopefully the majority of them will understand I often forget to explain process in detail If you wanted to do even a slightly better job you could get a tank of nitrogen available at Airgas or commercial HVAC wholesale warehouse. After you did all the dirty heavy flushing work with your compressed air then you could come in behind it with dry nitrogen. Crank up the pressure to 600 psi and use that you will get a higher flow faster velocity and of extremely dry nitrogen will help remove most of the moisture that you just introduced by using Shop compressed air. Of course at 600 psi the other side of the hose the condenser the evaporator or any device Hass to be wide-open not restricted so the item does not build up that kind of pressure it will just flow right through. And you need to also wear your protection because with that kind of airflow at that pressure and velocity it is deafening loud. You should look into joining MACS And attending one of their yearly expose and seminars on air conditioning training and see all the available tools tips and procedures available and all the manufacturer products all under one roof. It’s one of those mechanics training events that you should at least attend one time in your life. This year it’s being held in Orlando Florida by Disney. So if you have a wife and kids they could go have fun while you are attending training classes for three days. 👍
Could one put heat through the parts in order to dry? Obviously not extreme amounts, but a low volume of warmer and relatively lower humidity air should be able to dry those components of alcohols or other solvents quickly.. Even water would dry fast at reasonable temps like 60c+. You could achieve that with a rigged up heat gun. With the ability to run water, you could put a citric solution through the ali parts and remove surface oxidation. Citric wouldn't attack gaskets either. Maybe I'm overthinking it. I'm just a diy guy trying to figure out how to tackle a failure in one of my own cars.
@@captainotto you could apply heat that would help. If you’re doing it yourself person you have all the time in the world it would make your vacuum time quicker. Because the vacuum is what used to remove the rest of the moisture As for removing oxidation of aluminum parts, especially you do not want to remove oxidation off of aluminum The oxidation is actually the protective layer on aluminum You would not want citric acid or anything acidic in the system And just keep your vacuum pump on for 24 hours and that you guarantee you did good enough at removing the moisture level down into the parts per million
Works in a very dry environment but compressed air carries moisture a huge amount during peak season . So What ...... moisture even in a microscopic amount enters system .....Solution will be to filter a use a Dessicant drier on your air supply . Spray painters do this . OR use dry nitrogen to blow thru . A flushed system using auto gauges will take overnight to vacuum out .......
Hey, I am in the process to do the same. Heard somewhere the expansion valve needs to be removed prior the cleaning. Do you think it needs to be done? Or just leave as is and clean it the way you did? Thanks in advance.
I have used it but make sure you blow it all out. Also do a good vacuum after the flush. There cant be any trace of alcohol or moisture in the system. Very important!!!
@@gautorepair do you think it's necessary to replace the expansion valve when changing the ac compressor? It looks very hard to get to. You think chemical flush would also clean the expansion valve? Please answer. thanks.
I have seen others using a home ac condenser chemical cleaner . The one which you mix with water spray on the condenser its makes bubbles and removes all the dirt even corrosion.After cleaning with this chemical they clean with gasoline then last with compressed air. During using The air conditioning will make the car smell gasoline in the cabin for two to three days .then to normal.
I would advise against using gasoline and such as it leaves a residue and highly flammable. The chemical is a cleaner thst is an acid. It is to clean the exterior of the coils. Not sure if it should be used to flush the inside of the system
Excellent. Thanks. I am getting ready to replace all the major components in my 31-year-old '90 Yota pickup. I have never worked with AC systems before. You answered a lot of my questions about flushing the lines. You also saved me some big bucks as I was going to buy several cans of the expensive flush. I am now going to use the denatured alcohol. For you DIY guys if you are just doing a system once in a while almost all auto parts stores will loan you a flush can system so you don't have to make or buy one. cheers
Finally! I have black sludge in my system, pulled all the major components from a donor car and have been trying to find a video about how to clear my lines before I put the new/used parts on. Thanks Bro! Keep up the good work!
Nice video. I've only done a little A/C work. I remember using that expensive flush solvent on a tractor system one time. Using Denatured alcohol is a good tip, thanks.
Acetone will also work and may be purchased at Home Depot in the paint department . Residuals will evaporate from the flushed A/C lines. Acetone is flammable .
I was able to find denatured alcohol fuel is that the same, and would be ok to use.
Thanks
Good job. I am a retired refrigeration tech but only worked on commercial stuff. We have a desiel pusher with a defunct compressor and I know the system has to be flushed. Looks like a big job. Any idea where I may find that filter/orifice on our rig?
Thanks for the tip about the denatured alcohol.
From what I have read, Alcohol will not necessarily remove oil. What do you think?
We need to invent a catch-screen or paper- coffee-filter-like to attach to the exit end hose to show evidence the flush was successful by catching the debris for examination. A coffee filter rubber banded or zip tied at the exit could reveal a lot during the flush process. The hole in my idea is exactly that. I expect the pressure of the air would rip the coffee filter to shreds therefore a metal screen would be necessary.
Good video! I have a question, if im changing every thing, ( compressor, condensor, evaporator, expancion valve acumulator) is it still necesary to flush the system?.
If you also change the lines then no. The line should be changed by the book but i try to flush them.
Nice video. I just poured denatured alcohol into a really long air gun and it worked like a charm
Great Video! Can I flush a condenser on ab Audi TT from 2000?
Im not 100 percent sure but most likely no
Hey bro you should put a check valve where your air fitting is that way the flush tool holds the content and put a shut off valve close to your sprayer
It’s been 3 years, how did the ac hold out on this vehicle after the flush and reusing the condenser?
So far so good. No complaints
This looks really cool,
Without watching your other video, did you check that the PCV can take whatever pressure it's getting?
Just curious
Thank you
I think he's probably using schedule 40
I have a 1986 grand national. When I flush out the evaporator on the bigger line solvent goes through. But when i flush it on the opposite line solvent doesn’t come through only air. Do you know why? You think it’s clogged? Btw the orfice tube broke off in the line
You will have to extract the broken orifice tube. Depending on how the evaporator is oriented it may require more fluid in one direction than the other.
When I flush the evaporator im only getting solvent through one side of the the line. Is that normal
Hey, do you have to take off the accumulator to flush the system? Thanks.
Yes. That can't be flushed
Thank you for teaching me how to do this!
I really appreciate your help brother, thank you
How good is Denatured alcohol for flushing ? Did you ever opened and inspected the one u did before. Will it leave any residue or change color of pag oil ?
Don't flush with the compressor connected. Pag oil is mostly in compressor. You only flush lines and evaporator.
Is it ok to use petrol for cleaning liquid?
No
Do you have a cheap small water trap on your air line? I have a regular 3-4 HP air compressor and I don't want water in the evaporator.
I dont. But yes you can install a water separator. the only issue is that i think it needs to be a certain distance from the compressor output in order to work correctly.
Any air, or water in the system gets vacuumed out before replacing the refrigerant.
@@da324 but does it tho? All of the moisture gets vaccumed out by a professional machine? What about my cheap harbor freight vacuum pump, will that remove all the moisture when I vacuum down?
@@great2c4me Sure, I let mine run for an hr. I shut it off and come back one to two hrs later. If the gauges are still sub zero where they were when I walked off; you're good to go. Never had an issue that way.
What psi is the compressor at. I fell like the home made pump will blow the cap if u do to mutch psi at what psi you recomen for flusiing
30 to 40 psi
Nice video thanks for sharing.when do you need to flush the system. I want to know because my car the compressor is cooling very nicely, but it’s making noise if I replace the compressor is it necessary to flush the system?
Only when you have major internal failures. Usually you will have contaminated oil
Link to your video of the DIY tool is not there?
Sorry about that. Just added it to the description
@@gautorepair thanks. Also what is the name of the fluid you use to rinse with. I can't tell from the video (I'm not native English speaking)
There are serveral products you can use. I use denatured alcohol
I like your do it yourself flush gun cylinder it’s even better than the ones they sell on the market because it looks like you can hold even more liquid 👍. If I was a DYI person working out of my garage and back shop for myself I would probably use alcohol to even though theoretically it’s not the best on aluminum parts there is a little corrosion factor thing going on there. But it’s only in contact for a short duration of time.
And when alcohol it combined with fast-moving compressed air there there’s a chill factor that goes on in compressed air does have a lot of moisture in it actually a extreme amount of moisture mixed with the alcohol and the chilling affect condenses out into water droplet that coat the inside with liquid water. But nothing that leaving it on the vacuum pump overnight will not take care of. But of course that means an overnight vacuum not a one hour vacuum.
You did a really good job of explaining the difference between the Microchannel parallel flow condensers that you cannot flush unfortunately you did not have a sample to show the people the larger round tube and fin construction you explained it good enough hopefully the majority of them will understand I often forget to explain process in detail
If you wanted to do even a slightly better job you could get a tank of nitrogen available at Airgas or commercial HVAC wholesale warehouse. After you did all the dirty heavy flushing work with your compressed air then you could come in behind it with dry nitrogen.
Crank up the pressure to 600 psi and use that you will get a higher flow faster velocity and of extremely dry nitrogen will help remove most of the moisture that you just introduced by using Shop compressed air.
Of course at 600 psi the other side of the hose the condenser the evaporator or any device Hass to be wide-open not restricted so the item does not build up that kind of pressure it will just flow right through.
And you need to also wear your protection because with that kind of airflow at that pressure and velocity it is deafening loud.
You should look into joining MACS And attending one of their yearly expose and seminars on air conditioning training and see all the available tools tips and procedures available and all the manufacturer products all under one roof.
It’s one of those mechanics training events that you should at least attend one time in your life. This year it’s being held in Orlando Florida by Disney. So if you have a wife and kids they could go have fun while you are attending training classes for three days. 👍
Thanks. I always thought of attending one of those. Ill try to get a piece of condenser with the wider tubes as an example
@@gautorepair 👍
Maybe we can also use fuel injection cleaning tool (metal tank like his pvc one) It's llike $40
Could one put heat through the parts in order to dry? Obviously not extreme amounts, but a low volume of warmer and relatively lower humidity air should be able to dry those components of alcohols or other solvents quickly.. Even water would dry fast at reasonable temps like 60c+. You could achieve that with a rigged up heat gun. With the ability to run water, you could put a citric solution through the ali parts and remove surface oxidation. Citric wouldn't attack gaskets either. Maybe I'm overthinking it. I'm just a diy guy trying to figure out how to tackle a failure in one of my own cars.
@@captainotto you could apply heat that would help. If you’re doing it yourself person you have all the time in the world it would make your vacuum time quicker.
Because the vacuum is what used to remove the rest of the moisture
As for removing oxidation of aluminum parts, especially you do not want to remove oxidation off of aluminum
The oxidation is actually the protective layer on aluminum
You would not want citric acid or anything acidic in the system
And just keep your vacuum pump on for 24 hours and that you guarantee you did good enough at removing the moisture level down into the parts per million
Just got an idea. I can in use a 15 dollar undercoating gun to do this also.
I thought the same thing. Did you try it yet?
Works in a very dry environment but compressed air carries moisture a huge amount during peak season . So What ...... moisture even in a microscopic amount enters system .....Solution will be to filter a use a Dessicant drier on your air supply . Spray painters do this . OR use dry nitrogen to blow thru . A flushed system using auto gauges will take overnight to vacuum out .......
how'd you make that sweet flush gun?
Out of PVC pipe and rubber hose. Check out a video i made explaining how i built it
@@gautorepair I will! thanks man!
Hey,
I am in the process to do the same. Heard somewhere the expansion valve needs to be removed prior the cleaning. Do you think it needs to be done? Or just leave as is and clean it the way you did?
Thanks in advance.
Remove and replace the valve
@@gautorepair did you have the valve removed while you were flushing it or had the new one on when you were flushing it
Remove the valve and replace with new one
Flush is citrus based. Not alcohol
Where can I find video of construction of flush tool?
I haven't made one. I built this many years ago before I even had a TH-cam channel.
What schedule the pvc pipe for the diy tool
Don't recall but its the thickest one
So after you flush with solvent you can use a air compressor to remove any solvent I thought you only have to use nitrogen
Technically. But who has a giant cylinder of nitrogen laying around. If you put drier on the air line and perform a good deep vacuum you will be ok.
Oh ok thank you for replying
I used acetone, what do you think?
I've never used it, but i have read others have with success
@@gautorepair how about rubbing alcohol? Is that good enough? Please answer. Thanks
I have used it but make sure you blow it all out. Also do a good vacuum after the flush. There cant be any trace of alcohol or moisture in the system. Very important!!!
@@gautorepair thanks
@@gautorepair do you think it's necessary to replace the expansion valve when changing the ac compressor? It looks very hard to get to. You think chemical flush would also clean the expansion valve? Please answer. thanks.
I guess all the oil has been flushed also se we need to add full oil change to system ?
Yes
That’s a awesome homemade flusher
I get the flash pump at EBay
Excellent,thanks.
I have seen others using a home ac condenser chemical cleaner . The one which you mix with water spray on the condenser its makes bubbles and removes all the dirt even corrosion.After cleaning with this chemical they clean with gasoline then last with compressed air. During using The air conditioning will make the car smell gasoline in the cabin for two to three days .then to normal.
I would advise against using gasoline and such as it leaves a residue and highly flammable. The chemical is a cleaner thst is an acid. It is to clean the exterior of the coils. Not sure if it should be used to flush the inside of the system
Cool bro! Very good video.....
Very good video.
what stores sell 1 gallon of denaturated alcohol? Thanks
Lowes
Home depot
Good teaching
Great job
Good Job.........
wow that sound at 9:06
Great bid