Just FYI my explanation of how the A/C system works is very simplified and meant for a general understanding of how an expansion valve works. I know some of you very educated viewers may give me a hard time. I’m just trying to help the regular Joe diagnose and fix his or her A/C this summer. Thanks for watching!
It was a great explanation in terms of solving the problem and fixing the car. That is what 99.9% of people are here for, anyone who wants to go more in depth can go to Wikipedia or an HVAC channel.
Thank you for the clarification. I know you're a very smart guy and a superb Mechanic but my initial reaction was WHAT???! At the end of the day, I'm glad the problem was resolved. Keep it up, Man!
Great explanation! I like you corrected yourself saying refrigerant, instead of freon. That took a long time for me to break the habit of calling it freon. For your youtube community. Freon is R12. Freon is the brand of Dupont. It would not matter if you called freon your viewers understand. Its difficult to create video content and explain the work you are preforming. A lot of brain power. Enjoyed the video.
Yep, called high pressure relief valve to prevent the compressor and or evap, condenser to rupture blow with much force. Located directly right on the back side of compressor itself
@@abechavez1876 its there to stop the evap from popping and venting all the gas inside the passenger compartment which would cause an accident, kill somebody and be a massive liability for the auto maker.
Great basic explanation and how to on the diagnosis. The obstruction essentially acted like an orifice tube. You’re helping people understand complex mechanical issues and hopefully save money on their rides. I think your in H Town like myself too.
It is incredible how much you know about how the ac system works as a whole. I've worked on my car but never actually knew this. Something in my ac blew and during my research I ran into your video. Absolutely amazing. Thank you so much for all the information. This helped SO much!
Better money fixing, and repairing them however. Especially if you're decent at it. This guy probably gets good word of mouth, and thus plenty of new and repeat customers.
Phenomenal. I learnt how to better trace a clog. I knew how to diagnose clogs, but i wasn't too sure on how to determine where the clog was. The only thing I can say is refrigerant enters and leaves the compressor in vapor form, not a liquid. liquids cannot be compressed. Thank you
It may be possible that there was something wrong with that compressor, it may have been damaged if it was building up enough pressure to trip to relief valve. Likely not catastrophic but it may have reduced its lifespan. Kind of hard to know with these things.
Great diagnostic technique as usual dude. To clarify one thing, an A/C compressor is not design too and should not be allowed to pump liquid, pumping liquid damages an A/C compressor. The compressor discharges vapor into the condenser and the condenser, as the name implies “CONDENSER” condenses the vapor into a liquid.
U r one of the straight to the point, no-nonsense, car repair guy I follow on TH-cam. U r good!!!! I can easily follow and understand what you've just explained here.
One little correction the refrigerant coming out of the compressor is a gas it doesn't become a liquid until in goes through the condenser. IE it condenses the gas! Great videos bud!!
Correction, where there is a restriction, the condenser stops flowing and fills with condensed gas which is liquid. When the relief opens, the liquid boils and sprays a mix of liquid and gas. Safety first. Getting sprayed by this can cause severe frostbite. Think taking the radiator cap off an overheated car. Boiling liquid blows out under force. Same principal, but with refrigerant. Both are dangerous to get sprayed with.
Eric, you are very intelligent and your video are inspiring and educational. Just FYI, the compressor discharges a high temp, high press GAS. As the gas enters the condenser and it gives up its heat to the ambient air, the gas condenses into a liquid. The expansion device is the dividing point from high to low press. You are correct in the diagnosis and procedures of finding restrictions. Large press/temp difference indicates restriction and will work like a metering device/TXV/orifice. A good practice when replacing compressors is to replace the micro-channel condenser with it. It is impossible to flush debris out of them due to the paralel construction. Keep up the great work and I look forward to your vids.
Yo mamma, your comment around the compressor is correct . Compressor is normally supposed to discharges high pressure hot gas into the condenser. The gas is then cooled by the air blowing across the condenser air, and it turns the gas into high pressure liquid (condensing the gas, hence the word condenser)
I have 2 older Civics and a Camry. All can be jacked up under the rad support. Found out the hard way that you cannot do this with an 08 Honda Fit. Stopped just before doing any real damage to the radiator and condenser but had to straighten out the rad support frame.
When this happens will this automatically mean compressor or system damage? I filled my truck w/ R134a and I had this happen (blowout through relief valve twice). I then bled the system to bring down the pressure. I seem to be getting coldish air again and no more blowout. But I have and am seeing big pressure spikes in ac system.
That's a good point checking the temperature, having the same problem, did my research and everything point to the compressor, than I found a small leak on the low side port, I fixed changing the small valve inside and evacuated and fill the system, now is working fine . Is the first video that I found explaining this issue so clear and how can be fix . Thanks
when the compressed refrigerant comes out of of the compressor it's still in gas form, it will only becomes liquid when it's cooled down inside the condenser hence the term. then the cold part in the condenser is caused by the clog. because of the clog, the pressure in the high side is low.. the lower the temperature the colder the refrigerant will be as per the pressure/temperature relationship properties of the said refrigerant.... still good job diagnosing the problem, didn't occur to me to use a temp gun, and i didn't know that there is a relief valve on the compressor. thanks for the added knowledge
Taking my ASE A7 Heating & Cooling test tomorrow...this is a timely video. Any restriction/blockage drops pressure, pressure drop = colder. Between videos like yours and studying I realized how much basic theory I lacked...99% of A/C fixes I do are compressors (usually bearings or clutch) or leaks (often obvious damage, or found with sniffer or compressed air).
My explanation was very brief and oversimplified. I would suggest doing a little more research on the subject if you are planning on taking a test. Thanks for watching!
You explained well and now I understood the function of AC in a car. I have the similar situation where my car AC throws cold air for first time then on it is very hot air only. Will check the condenser first then proceed with my diagnostics. Thanks
The big question now is, why did the condenser plug up? The small bend at the bottom wouldn't have crushed enough rows to cause a blockage like that. That leaves the compressor failing at some point or the desiccant bag inside the dryer coming apart. Both of which will probably cause trouble down the road if the car lot didn't flush the system.
The last row is on the bottom and was crushed. it comes in on the top and snakes down. in ________________________________________ ________________________________________| |________________________________________ out ________________________________________|
Exactly how Josh C explained. This type of A/C condenser has the one inlet at towards the top first row then it loops zig zags down from side to side horizontally until it exits outlet line at the bottom most row which makes sense as it was crushed bent upwards as shown in video. It circulates differently than a radiator, where coolant entering can go flow in all rows across and it exits flows out all rows on other end simultaneously from all rows.
@@ratbag359 & @Abe Chavez Nope, your thinking of a serpentine condenser. This one is a parallel flow condenser. It does snake down but typically in multiple rows at a time. Pretty much all cars have used them for over 20 years.
05:55 I agree the AC condenser is the cause of the restriction, but I bet too many of the the micro channels are clogged with debris from the previous failing AC compressor... I really don't think that one dent in the bottom of the condenser can cause the whole condenser to "clog"? Great video!!!
2007 Honda Pilot EXL the liquid line from the condenser to the evaporator had a kink i couldn't see behind the grille before the service port. This thing has been wrecked and had a serious clown repair it. Thanks for the idea to use the gun. Now i need to find an obsolete part.... Unless you know of a good repair for splicing the aluminum tubing together.....
I NEED HELP.. Wow, u a great teacher, i can only wish to meet someone so knowledgeable, to guide me with my AC, right now im in this process to try to fix my AC, a scammer i payed did not finish the job, and took my money, so im stuck, but i must say, im very nervous about doing this my self, im mechanically inclined, but know nothing about ACs🥺
Great video how always love watching them. But to help you out on how the AC or refrigerant system works and the gas entering the compressor is gas and a little cooler but when it leaves the compressor is high-pressure and still a gas. As compressors or pumps work the internal friction of the mechanical parts as well as the fluid creates a lot of heat.The condenser is in use to cool down the refrigerant into a liquid but still maintain the same pressure from there it goes into the thermal expansion valve. As far as I know there is no compressor that does both gas and liquid. Compressible fluids and incompressible fluids don’t do well in any system. Like a hydraulic locked engine.
Of course you're correct that only gas exits the compressor, and I share your appreciation of this interesting video. However to clarify your correction, the temp spike of the compressor discharge line comes from compression of the gas into a smaller volume, not from "friction of mechanical parts as well as the fluid...". Examples of that kind of adiabatic temperature change caused simply by changes in pressure are everywhere on our planet, and it is fundamental to how all heat pumps work. Further downstream inside the condenser, the hot, high pressure gas is cooled to ambient temp by flowing air. Cooling of that hot gas inside the condenser allows the refrigerant to return to its natural state as a room temperature liquid at that pressure.
@@spelunkerd thank you for sharing this information I’m dealing with a compressor replacement on an 03 SSR the old compressor seized so I’m sure there’s contamination throughout the system I can’t find an orficetube but it has a expansion valve I also can’t find a reciver dryer so I’m stumped I vacuumed it out and proceeded to recharge it and it will not cycle the compressor it’s pressure is equalized at about a hundred psi maybe thinking of jumping the electro magnet to engage the clutch and see if it will work hopefully the compressor isn’t wired incorrectly they painted the wires so I’m yet to know if that’s the case any help would be greatly appreciated
@@unclecowboy2003 I recommend replacing the condenser if the compressor was mechanically seized. If just the pulley and clutch you could probably get away without replacement. The condenser on those vehicles is call a Micro Channel Heat Exchanger or MCHE. It cannot be flushed of debris. If you have an expansion valve then you won't have an orifice tube. It's one or the other, unless on a vehicle with front and rear systems then it's possible le the front will have a TXV and the rear have an orifice tube or vice versa. On TXV systems you should have a receiver and it may be part of the condenser. On orifice tube systems you will have an accumulator between the compressor and evaporator on the low side (suction) line. If the compressor clutch doesn't engage with A/C on, first I would check for 12 volts at the compressor clutch connector. If present then you have a bad clutch coil. If not then check pressure switches (low and high) some vehicles only have one. If yours has 3 wires then it is probably the only pressure switch. Also check the A/C clutch relay and of course fuses. I have on rare occasions seen the control panel fail and not turn on the clutch. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the video. I am facing the same problem like this in my jdm 2005 honda odyssey. High side pressure line getting cool and sweaty. Luckily it's still blow cool air. Maybe i need to change condenser immediately..
Thanks , you know the pros are out here finishing your sentences, thanking God for the IR temp guns and wondering why the hell that condenser ain't leaking.
Hi Just come across your video. Very helpfull which helped me diagnose my clogged condenser. Many thanks for taking the time to post this. All the best from England. 👍👍
The reason was the condenser restriction was metering hot gas thru the restriction lowering the saturation pressure Compressor only compress vapor to increase pressure and temp Slugging is bad I disagree with using air to find a leak use an inert gas NITROGEN CHEERS nice diagnosis
Great video Eric!! Thank you very much! Now I would like to share my problem (still a problem) with my 2009 Suzuki Sx4 with Matsushita compressor. The thing is that I fought a lot cause I made several vacuum process and recharges, and always the same reading, normal to low LP side, (that make compressor switch on & off because of fall of pressure) and HP side with values between 275/300psi. 3 times my relief valve evacuated oil and r134 (expensive in my country 20 dollars a kg). So I decided to buy a new condenser, new expansion valve and make a proper flush with r141 (even more expensive 30 us$/kg) a bottle of pag 46 (22 us$/250mL) I did everything by service manual, and 40 min of vacuum. The same issue returns. Normal to low LP side & HP side 275/300 psi on 75F° day. Intermittent cooling inside de cabin. Can a evaporator coil get clogged inside? I noticed on the flushing procedure that the only element that seemed to be obstructed was the evaporator coil. Please give me some advice! I'd appreciate a lot!! Regards! And keep on teaching!
I know this is a little late, but perhaps your pressure is building because the fan that cools your condenser isn't running? I had the same symptoms and checked a troubleshooting chart, and one of the things to check was the condenser fan. Another clue was I'd get cool air when the vehicle was moving and warm air when idling in place. Sure enough, it was a bad fan. New fan cost 30.00 and after installing the high side went down to normal parameters. If your condenser doesn't have enough air blowing across to cool it, the compressed gas doesn't turn to liquid and drop in pressure, which is what causes the extremely high pressures. When the vehicle was moving, the wind blew across the condenser but when stationary, no air could cool it down.
@@watcherwatchmen7785 Hey! Hi! Thanks anyway! But no, the condenser fan (Condition and operation) was perfectly fine. I have changed my condenser and this issue occurs in any condition, at 100 mph or idling. I finally solved the problem doing something not recommended but I was quite fed up of the results changing all the elements I could (I would never touch the evaporator) change. So one day I picked up modified r134 bottle I made some vacuum on it and I pull some r134 from high pressure side, until I got a normal reading. End of issue. Everything started to flow as new. Thank you very much for your reply! Regards
Damn,, great video! I had one of those infrared temp guns but I destroyed it accidentally n been meaning 2 get new one, thanks 4 video makes perfect sense
My '95 Safari would take a charge, and cool for a while. When I would shut off the engine, I would hear that whoosh. I haven't messed with it much, as I also have a car with good A/C. I was thinking maybe the accumulator was plugged up. I'll have to check it out as this video showed.
Great video to made me sure. 100 degrees outside low side was normal but high side was 150 as low. Normally it should be more than 260-290 . I guess my macanic is right about condenser tho
Great Job Erick! 👍 I dealing with 2014 Altima 2.4L and I can't find the orifice tune...I replaced the expansion valve and the dryer and I am still doing with high pressure on the low side..please help me
@markh3478 0 seconds ago Great video . I had this same problem on my 1988 BMW M6 with only BMW OBD1 . Low side gauge reading a little high and high side gauge reading very low . System was overcharged by me trying to solve the problem with a Wal-Mart can and gauge . No luck. I guessed there was a blockage in the condenser so dismounted it , bought a small fluid pressurizable tank at NAPA and some stuff I think was called Dura flush . Its mostly pentane so flammable . I put it in freezer for an hour before starting . Pressure fed the Dura flush into the condenser discharge side at 90psi . Nothing happened for about two minutes so hit it again with more . All of a sudden whoosh and a gusher of gunk shot and spattered about 20 feet across my driveway . Glad I had on safety glasses . I flushed the lines to and from the compressor too . After new o-rings and assembly with an ounce of AC oil added to the condenser , 30 minute full vacuum and recharge with 134-a ( had already replaced TXV and STV POA ( car has rear evaporator , too ) I got 44F at vents with fan blowing on condenser, 2000 rpm fast idle on 92F summer day . Now get 225 psi on high side at 75F .
I once installed a compressor that was doing the same thing but it was on a new re manufactured compressor and I call that valve on the compressor but told the customer that I would have to replace the whole unit not just that valve and had to be replaced with a new one not a remanufactured on and after that it was good.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge, great tips on troubleshooting, so what do you like better to be a shop owner or working providing your expertise to shop owners?
I'm more useful helping multiple people than running my own shop. If I had a shop, I wouldn't have the time to help others and I wouldn't have the time to make these videos.
Eric, thanks for the ac video, helped me out with my suv. I need professional help with the engine of my 01 tahoe. Do you know anyone in the AZ area that you worked with or that can help with these type of suv?
Hello Thanks for the video,my Mazda 5 2012 does the exact same thing .When I touch the low pressure line ,it’s really cold but the Freon keep blowing out Any idea what might be the problem ?,somebody told me it could be the pressure switch .What do you think??
Bingo , you win the lucky prize , I've been racking my brain on this 2000 jeep cherokee , I got the same curbing dent in it , maybe a short pole. Whatever , but the ac gauges are acting weird, my high pressure lines were cold , low pressure was warm ..that's what it is , condenser..I'll find out after I replace it ..thank
Update , i replaced mine , something is still plugged , my ac pump is new it dont blow off like this one , im wondering if my evaporator is plugged ..or full of white long dog hair , but i got air and vent pressure .
Also, was curious. Were is the high press cutout? Was it jumpered? The blow off is a last resort fail safe to keep something from exploding. Usually the high press switch is in the hot gas line between comp and cond. If not jumpered, or missing, you might want to replace it.
The high pressure cutoff switch is located after the high side port. Much like we don't see the extreme pressure on the gauge, the switch does not see it either.
Was thinking it may be after it, haven't had the opportunity to work on the Odyssey yet. They should've installed in the discharge line between the comp and cond. That was a design flaw in my opinion.
My boys and I have 2007 CRV, civic and accord, all have dead air conditioners. What are the most likely culprits? We have an extreme heat wave here so appreciate any help
Well I THOUGHT the refrigerant comes out of the compressor as a high pressure gas and becomes liquid in the condenser with a few degrees below saturation at the exit. Correct me if I'm wrong.
You are correct. I was just oversimplifying to explain how the expansion valve creates the effect of coldness in the lines. That way people understand why we are looking for a significant temperature difference when trying to locate a blockage in the system.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO For the record I wasn't trying to diminish your work. I think at the end of the day (I hate that saying but it works) people will understand.
I'm having the same problem. After recharging with fresh refrigerant started shooting refrigerant from compressor. I suspected that problem is in the high side. The low side lines become ice ,but strangely it shoots refrigerant from compressor. So I think the high side is being blocked. And I did change the orifice before. So I don't think the orifice I clogged.
![[#2024MAMA] BIGBANG (빅뱅) - 뱅뱅뱅 (BANG BANG BANG) + FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQsYfiPR9uM/mqdefault.jpg)
Just FYI my explanation of how the A/C system works is very simplified and meant for a general understanding of how an expansion valve works. I know some of you very educated viewers may give me a hard time. I’m just trying to help the regular Joe diagnose and fix his or her A/C this summer. Thanks for watching!
It was a great explanation in terms of solving the problem and fixing the car. That is what 99.9% of people are here for, anyone who wants to go more in depth can go to Wikipedia or an HVAC channel.
Exactly! Thank you!
Thank you for the clarification. I know you're a very smart guy and a superb Mechanic but my initial reaction was WHAT???! At the end of the day, I'm glad the problem was resolved. Keep it up, Man!
Great explanation! I like you corrected yourself saying refrigerant, instead of freon. That took a long time for me to break the habit of calling it freon. For your youtube community. Freon is R12. Freon is the brand of Dupont. It would not matter if you called freon your viewers understand. Its difficult to create video content and explain the work you are preforming. A lot of brain power. Enjoyed the video.
@@713jtmechanic8 Is R22 called Freon also? I’m not sure. Thank u!!
As a master technician myself, I think you did a great job on this video! THANKS!!
Didn't know that there is a pressure relieve valve that vents like that. Good information
I didn't know either!
Learned something!
Yep, called high pressure relief valve to prevent the compressor and or evap, condenser to rupture blow with much force.
Located directly right on the back side of compressor itself
@@abechavez1876 its there to stop the evap from popping and venting all the gas inside the passenger compartment which would cause an accident, kill somebody and be a massive liability for the auto maker.
Great basic explanation and how to on the diagnosis. The obstruction essentially acted like an orifice tube. You’re helping people understand complex mechanical issues and hopefully save money on their rides. I think your in H Town like myself too.
It is incredible how much you know about how the ac system works as a whole. I've worked on my car but never actually knew this. Something in my ac blew and during my research I ran into your video. Absolutely amazing. Thank you so much for all the information. This helped SO much!
Eric, your local JC / tech school needs you to teach
No question about it
I agree, you're a great teacher. You should look into it. Good pension and plenty of holidays. 👍
Better money fixing, and repairing them however. Especially if you're decent at it. This guy probably gets good word of mouth, and thus plenty of new and repeat customers.
He is teaching. 👍 He probably doesn't get paid too well, but he's putting in the effort to help others learn.
Phenomenal. I learnt how to better trace a clog. I knew how to diagnose clogs, but i wasn't too sure on how to determine where the clog was. The only thing I can say is refrigerant enters and leaves the compressor in vapor form, not a liquid. liquids cannot be compressed. Thank you
Another compressor that didn't need to be replaced and another costumer that paid for the inexperience of the shop. Great video Eric
Luckily this vehicle belongs to the car lot. It is used as a loaner or rental car.
It may be possible that there was something wrong with that compressor, it may have been damaged if it was building up enough pressure to trip to relief valve. Likely not catastrophic but it may have reduced its lifespan. Kind of hard to know with these things.
where do you think the blockage came from? a failed compressor and a system that wasnt cleaned out.
@@DieselRamcharger yes exactly your meant to replace and flush the whole system out that's what they get for being cheap
@@neilmurphy845 yup. running a solvent flush isnt even expensive.
Great diagnosis! Exceptional job of explaining how a vehicles a/c works & the inner workings of the refrigerant process!
Great diagnostic technique as usual dude. To clarify one thing, an A/C compressor is not design too and should not be allowed to pump liquid, pumping liquid damages an A/C compressor. The compressor discharges vapor into the condenser and the condenser, as the name implies “CONDENSER” condenses the vapor into a liquid.
U r one of the straight to the point, no-nonsense, car repair guy I follow on TH-cam. U r good!!!! I can easily follow and understand what you've just explained here.
One little correction the refrigerant coming out of the compressor is a gas it doesn't become a liquid until in goes through the condenser. IE it condenses the gas! Great videos bud!!
Correction, where there is a restriction, the condenser stops flowing and fills with condensed gas which is liquid. When the relief opens, the liquid boils and sprays a mix of liquid and gas. Safety first. Getting sprayed by this can cause severe frostbite. Think taking the radiator cap off an overheated car. Boiling liquid blows out under force. Same principal, but with refrigerant. Both are dangerous to get sprayed with.
Eric, you are very intelligent and your video are inspiring and educational. Just FYI, the compressor discharges a high temp, high press GAS. As the gas enters the condenser and it gives up its heat to the ambient air, the gas condenses into a liquid. The expansion device is the dividing point from high to low press. You are correct in the diagnosis and procedures of finding restrictions. Large press/temp difference indicates restriction and will work like a metering device/TXV/orifice. A good practice when replacing compressors is to replace the micro-channel condenser with it. It is impossible to flush debris out of them due to the paralel construction. Keep up the great work and I look forward to your vids.
Yo mamma, your comment around the compressor is correct . Compressor is normally supposed to discharges high pressure hot gas into the condenser. The gas is then cooled by the air blowing across the condenser air, and it turns the gas into high pressure liquid (condensing the gas, hence the word condenser)
Great Job Eric! I bet someone tried jacking the van up under the condenser and damaged it!
I have 2 older Civics and a Camry. All can be jacked up under the rad support. Found out the hard way that you cannot do this with an 08 Honda Fit. Stopped just before doing any real damage to the radiator and condenser but had to straighten out the rad support frame.
Wow, an A/C video that I actually understood and learned something! Thank you for the clear presentation and explanation. 👍
That’s crazy! I have two of the same vehicles in my shop at the same time!
What a great demonstration, of the compressor saving itself from overload by releasing refrigerant. I've never seen that before.
When this happens will this automatically mean compressor or system damage? I filled my truck w/ R134a and I had this happen (blowout through relief valve twice). I then bled the system to bring down the pressure. I seem to be getting coldish air again and no more blowout. But I have and am seeing big pressure spikes in ac system.
By far the Best Explanation I am working on a Peterbilt truck and it’s doing the same thing…. Great Video 👍
You’re a very good tech. You keep it simple with a logical explanation. Also powers of observation to pick up minute details are bang on. Thanks
Very confidence and intelligent work, (A L A) thanks. Habib Auto all day way from Ghana Accra West Africa
One of the most clear and concise videos concerning this subject matter.
Thanks Eric for the a/c video! I watch every video!
Awesome! Thank you!
A very informative video, Eric! Many thanks.....stay cool down there!
You explain everything in such a short video, very informative. God bless you. Thanks for sharing.
That's a good point checking the temperature, having the same problem, did my research and everything point to the compressor, than I found a small leak on the low side port, I fixed changing the small valve inside and evacuated and fill the system, now is working fine .
Is the first video that I found explaining this issue so clear and how can be fix .
Thanks
when the compressed refrigerant comes out of of the compressor it's still in gas form, it will only becomes liquid when it's cooled down inside the condenser hence the term. then the cold part in the condenser is caused by the clog. because of the clog, the pressure in the high side is low.. the lower the temperature the colder the refrigerant will be as per the pressure/temperature relationship properties of the said refrigerant.... still good job diagnosing the problem, didn't occur to me to use a temp gun, and i didn't know that there is a relief valve on the compressor. thanks for the added knowledge
Had an AHA moment when you explained the cold discharge line temps and blockage! Thanks a ton man!
Taking my ASE A7 Heating & Cooling test tomorrow...this is a timely video. Any restriction/blockage drops pressure, pressure drop = colder. Between videos like yours and studying I realized how much basic theory I lacked...99% of A/C fixes I do are compressors (usually bearings or clutch) or leaks (often obvious damage, or found with sniffer or compressed air).
My explanation was very brief and oversimplified. I would suggest doing a little more research on the subject if you are planning on taking a test. Thanks for watching!
HELLO SIR, YOU EXCELLENT DID JOB IN EXPLAINING , HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS. THANKS VERY MUCH.
Well thought out video!
Consider becoming a automotive instructor! You'd be a great one!
I love the drawings to explain how the AC system works. They helped me a lot!
Eric you are a very smart mechanic. Well done.
You explained well and now I understood the function of AC in a car. I have the similar situation where my car AC throws cold air for first time then on it is very hot air only. Will check the condenser first then proceed with my diagnostics. Thanks
my ac is having the same problem it only works at idle what was the cause of your problem?
The big question now is, why did the condenser plug up? The small bend at the bottom wouldn't have crushed enough rows to cause a blockage like that. That leaves the compressor failing at some point or the desiccant bag inside the dryer coming apart. Both of which will probably cause trouble down the road if the car lot didn't flush the system.
I'm not entirely sure. That is why I recommended that they flush the system out when they replaced the condenser. Thanks for watching!
The last row is on the bottom and was crushed.
it comes in on the top and snakes down.
in ________________________________________
________________________________________|
|________________________________________
out ________________________________________|
Exactly how Josh C explained.
This type of A/C condenser has the one inlet at towards the top first row then it loops zig zags down from side to side horizontally until it exits outlet line at the bottom most row which makes sense as it was crushed bent upwards as shown in video.
It circulates differently than a radiator, where coolant entering can go flow in all rows across and it exits flows out all rows on other end simultaneously from all rows.
@@ratbag359 & @Abe Chavez Nope, your thinking of a serpentine condenser. This one is a parallel flow condenser. It does snake down but typically in multiple rows at a time. Pretty much all cars have used them for over 20 years.
2011 1500 dodge ram 4.7 same problem i gone through 3 ac compressor now im going replace ac condenser you got me Subscribe
05:55 I agree the AC condenser is the cause of the restriction, but I bet too many of the the micro channels are clogged with debris from the previous failing AC compressor... I really don't think that one dent in the bottom of the condenser can cause the whole condenser to "clog"?
Great video!!!
Great video! thanks for explaining it so well, I learnt more from your video than I did scouring the web for the past 2hrs
2007 Honda Pilot EXL the liquid line from the condenser to the evaporator had a kink i couldn't see behind the grille before the service port. This thing has been wrecked and had a serious clown repair it. Thanks for the idea to use the gun.
Now i need to find an obsolete part....
Unless you know of a good repair for splicing the aluminum tubing together.....
You are a very very smart guy Eric ,thank you For the great explanation of how the air conditioning system works
I NEED HELP..
Wow, u a great teacher, i can only wish to meet someone so knowledgeable, to guide me with my AC, right now im in this process to try to fix my AC, a scammer i payed did not finish the job, and took my money, so im stuck, but i must say, im very nervous about doing this my self, im mechanically inclined, but know nothing about ACs🥺
I hoped you lived in my state so you helped with my ac system This mechanic told me to replace my AC compressor but I don't believe that's the problem
I love watching your videos. Once the TH-cam algorithm starts pushing your channel, you’ll be past a million subs.
Yes thanks so much . Can you do a more videos on the think diag
Thanks for the video! Keep them coming!
Good afternoon family. Again. Thank you very much for the valuable information and for your time ⏲️ 🙏👍🏼👍🏼.
Fast and accurate. Priceless.
The pictures you used were good. you are an excellent mechanic
Great video how always love watching them. But to help you out on how the AC or refrigerant system works and the gas entering the compressor is gas and a little cooler but when it leaves the compressor is high-pressure and still a gas. As compressors or pumps work the internal friction of the mechanical parts as well as the fluid creates a lot of heat.The condenser is in use to cool down the refrigerant into a liquid but still maintain the same pressure from there it goes into the thermal expansion valve. As far as I know there is no compressor that does both gas and liquid. Compressible fluids and incompressible fluids don’t do well in any system. Like a hydraulic locked engine.
Of course you're correct that only gas exits the compressor, and I share your appreciation of this interesting video. However to clarify your correction, the temp spike of the compressor discharge line comes from compression of the gas into a smaller volume, not from "friction of mechanical parts as well as the fluid...". Examples of that kind of adiabatic temperature change caused simply by changes in pressure are everywhere on our planet, and it is fundamental to how all heat pumps work. Further downstream inside the condenser, the hot, high pressure gas is cooled to ambient temp by flowing air. Cooling of that hot gas inside the condenser allows the refrigerant to return to its natural state as a room temperature liquid at that pressure.
@@spelunkerd thank you for sharing this information I’m dealing with a compressor replacement on an 03 SSR the old compressor seized so I’m sure there’s contamination throughout the system I can’t find an orficetube but it has a expansion valve I also can’t find a reciver dryer so I’m stumped I vacuumed it out and proceeded to recharge it and it will not cycle the compressor it’s pressure is equalized at about a hundred psi maybe thinking of jumping the electro magnet to engage the clutch and see if it will work hopefully the compressor isn’t wired incorrectly they painted the wires so I’m yet to know if that’s the case any help would be greatly appreciated
@@unclecowboy2003 I recommend replacing the condenser if the compressor was mechanically seized. If just the pulley and clutch you could probably get away without replacement. The condenser on those vehicles is call a Micro Channel Heat Exchanger or MCHE. It cannot be flushed of debris. If you have an expansion valve then you won't have an orifice tube. It's one or the other, unless on a vehicle with front and rear systems then it's possible le the front will have a TXV and the rear have an orifice tube or vice versa. On TXV systems you should have a receiver and it may be part of the condenser. On orifice tube systems you will have an accumulator between the compressor and evaporator on the low side (suction) line. If the compressor clutch doesn't engage with A/C on, first I would check for 12 volts at the compressor clutch connector. If present then you have a bad clutch coil. If not then check pressure switches (low and high) some vehicles only have one. If yours has 3 wires then it is probably the only pressure switch. Also check the A/C clutch relay and of course fuses. I have on rare occasions seen the control panel fail and not turn on the clutch. Hope this helps.
Excellent video..i knew it was related to the condenser..Very well Done.
Be great if you told us what you charged for the Diagnostic.
Finally, a video that covers this issue!! Thanks so much!!!
Thank you very much Sir!! Very informative and simplified teaching!!
Thanks for the video.
I am facing the same problem like this in my jdm 2005 honda odyssey.
High side pressure line getting cool and sweaty.
Luckily it's still blow cool air.
Maybe i need to change condenser immediately..
The "expansion valve" was the condenser! Nice diag Eric!
Yes! Thank you!
Thanks , you know the pros are out here finishing your sentences, thanking God for the IR temp guns and wondering why the hell that condenser ain't leaking.
Hi Just come across your video. Very helpfull which helped me diagnose my clogged condenser. Many thanks for taking the time to post this. All the best from England. 👍👍
Great video when can we expect another production ?
I try to at least post once a week. Thanks for watching!
The reason was the condenser restriction was metering hot gas thru the restriction lowering the saturation pressure Compressor only compress vapor to increase pressure and temp Slugging is bad I disagree with using air to find a leak use an inert gas NITROGEN CHEERS nice diagnosis
Eric “ Estas pero CHINGON” 😎
Good video bro. Im having problems at the moment,and you gave me good info.
What's the typical differential temp should be between the temp coming out from the compressor to the output side of the condenser?
Great video Eric!! Thank you very much! Now I would like to share my problem (still a problem) with my 2009 Suzuki Sx4 with Matsushita compressor. The thing is that I fought a lot cause I made several vacuum process and recharges, and always the same reading, normal to low LP side, (that make compressor switch on & off because of fall of pressure) and HP side with values between 275/300psi. 3 times my relief valve evacuated oil and r134 (expensive in my country 20 dollars a kg). So I decided to buy a new condenser, new expansion valve and make a proper flush with r141 (even more expensive 30 us$/kg) a bottle of pag 46 (22 us$/250mL) I did everything by service manual, and 40 min of vacuum. The same issue returns. Normal to low LP side & HP side 275/300 psi on 75F° day. Intermittent cooling inside de cabin. Can a evaporator coil get clogged inside? I noticed on the flushing procedure that the only element that seemed to be obstructed was the evaporator coil. Please give me some advice! I'd appreciate a lot!! Regards! And keep on teaching!
I know this is a little late, but perhaps your pressure is building because the fan that cools your condenser isn't running? I had the same symptoms and checked a troubleshooting chart, and one of the things to check was the condenser fan. Another clue was I'd get cool air when the vehicle was moving and warm air when idling in place. Sure enough, it was a bad fan. New fan cost 30.00 and after installing the high side went down to normal parameters.
If your condenser doesn't have enough air blowing across to cool it, the compressed gas doesn't turn to liquid and drop in pressure, which is what causes the extremely high pressures. When the vehicle was moving, the wind blew across the condenser but when stationary, no air could cool it down.
@@watcherwatchmen7785 Hey! Hi! Thanks anyway! But no, the condenser fan (Condition and operation) was perfectly fine. I have changed my condenser and this issue occurs in any condition, at 100 mph or idling. I finally solved the problem doing something not recommended but I was quite fed up of the results changing all the elements I could (I would never touch the evaporator) change. So one day I picked up modified r134 bottle I made some vacuum on it and I pull some r134 from high pressure side, until I got a normal reading. End of issue. Everything started to flow as new. Thank you very much for your reply! Regards
Damn,, great video! I had one of those infrared temp guns but I destroyed it accidentally n been meaning 2 get new one, thanks 4 video makes perfect sense
My '95 Safari would take a charge, and cool for a while. When I would shut off the engine, I would hear that whoosh. I haven't messed with it much, as I also have a car with good A/C. I was thinking maybe the accumulator was plugged up. I'll have to check it out as this video showed.
Great video to made me sure. 100 degrees outside low side was normal but high side was 150 as low. Normally it should be more than 260-290 . I guess my macanic is right about condenser tho
Great Job Erick! 👍 I dealing with 2014 Altima 2.4L and I can't find the orifice tune...I replaced the expansion valve and the dryer and I am still doing with high pressure on the low side..please help me
Great explanation, sir! Yet another super video.
Thanks for your thorough explanations❤️
Thats what I wa doing all day today, Thanks this helped a lot !
Another excellent diagnosis and very clear explanation, Good Job! 👍
Another great video,surely the mechanic should have done his homework like you did keep up the great work 😁
Wow thank you great tips I never thought about using a heat gun I like it
Good description on the blockage findings. Love those temp guns...have a few of them and one is for the BBQ !
Great for grilling and smoking meat! Thanks for watching!
Straight to the point as usual. Thanks Eric!
@markh3478
0 seconds ago
Great video . I had this same problem on my 1988 BMW M6 with only BMW OBD1 . Low side gauge reading a little high and high side gauge reading very low . System was overcharged by me trying to solve the problem with a Wal-Mart can and gauge . No luck. I guessed there was a blockage in the condenser so dismounted it , bought a small fluid pressurizable tank at NAPA and some stuff I think was called Dura flush . Its mostly pentane so flammable . I put it in freezer for an hour before starting . Pressure fed the Dura flush into the condenser discharge side at 90psi . Nothing happened for about two minutes so hit it again with more . All of a sudden whoosh and a gusher of gunk shot and spattered about 20 feet across my driveway . Glad I had on safety glasses . I flushed the lines to and from the compressor too . After new o-rings and assembly with an ounce of AC oil added to the condenser , 30 minute full vacuum and recharge with 134-a ( had already replaced TXV and STV POA ( car has rear evaporator , too ) I got 44F at vents with fan blowing on condenser, 2000 rpm fast idle on 92F summer day . Now get 225 psi on high side at 75F .
Good information keep up the great informational videos...
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Broooo you did not just show me exactly what I’ve been trying to figure out. I literally just took it to a shop and got the appointment next week
Eric another excellent informative video. The visuals are a great addition. You and family stay safe and well Artie 👍😊
Thanks 👍Glad you enjoyed it!
Geez, an AC video on YT where the guy isn't an idiot, what a concept. Now I need to go find your TXV diagnosis video.
I once installed a compressor that was doing the same thing but it was on a new re manufactured compressor and I call that valve on the compressor but told the customer that I would have to replace the whole unit not just that valve and had to be replaced with a new one not a remanufactured on and after that it was good.
do you think the original comp let some guts out and did the clog maybe stop leak? i didnt think it was that bend....by the way great tip
Thanks for sharing the knowledge, great tips on troubleshooting, so what do you like better to be a shop owner or working providing your expertise to shop owners?
I'm more useful helping multiple people than running my own shop. If I had a shop, I wouldn't have the time to help others and I wouldn't have the time to make these videos.
Like #314
Thanks for the video!
Life is a learning curve!
HINDSIGHT is 20-15!
Looks like you're keeping busy.
Eric, thanks for the ac video, helped me out with my suv. I need professional help with the engine of my 01 tahoe. Do you know anyone in the AZ area that you worked with or that can help with these type of suv?
Dude u just save me a lot of money and work muchisimas gracias
Great video and great explanation! Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
Hello
Thanks for the video,my Mazda 5 2012 does the exact same thing .When I touch the low pressure line ,it’s really cold but the Freon keep blowing out
Any idea what might be the problem ?,somebody told me it could be the pressure switch .What do you think??
Very informative video bro... thanks much
Your video helped me understand a lot!! Appreciate it!!
Great video and great troubleshooting. Thanks.
Great video, and very well explained! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for the explenation. Very informative.
Fascinating troubleshooting!
Bingo , you win the lucky prize , I've been racking my brain on this 2000 jeep cherokee , I got the same curbing dent in it , maybe a short pole. Whatever , but the ac gauges are acting weird, my high pressure lines were cold , low pressure was warm ..that's what it is , condenser..I'll find out after I replace it ..thank
Update , i replaced mine , something is still plugged , my ac pump is new it dont blow off like this one , im wondering if my evaporator is plugged ..or full of white long dog hair , but i got air and vent pressure .
Also, was curious. Were is the high press cutout? Was it jumpered? The blow off is a last resort fail safe to keep something from exploding. Usually the high press switch is in the hot gas line between comp and cond. If not jumpered, or missing, you might want to replace it.
The high pressure cutoff switch is located after the high side port. Much like we don't see the extreme pressure on the gauge, the switch does not see it either.
Was thinking it may be after it, haven't had the opportunity to work on the Odyssey yet. They should've installed in the discharge line between the comp and cond. That was a design flaw in my opinion.
My boys and I have 2007 CRV, civic and accord, all have dead air conditioners. What are the most likely culprits? We have an extreme heat wave here so appreciate any help
Great find Eric... WELL DONE!!! 10/10
Well I THOUGHT the refrigerant comes out of the compressor as a high pressure gas and becomes liquid in the condenser with a few degrees below saturation at the exit. Correct me if I'm wrong.
You are correct. I was just oversimplifying to explain how the expansion valve creates the effect of coldness in the lines. That way people understand why we are looking for a significant temperature difference when trying to locate a blockage in the system.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO For the record I wasn't trying to diminish your work. I think at the end of the day (I hate that saying but it works) people will understand.
I'm having the same problem. After recharging with fresh refrigerant started shooting refrigerant from compressor. I suspected that problem is in the high side. The low side lines become ice ,but strangely it shoots refrigerant from compressor. So I think the high side is being blocked. And I did change the orifice before. So I don't think the orifice I clogged.
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.