You made a great point; the race team still uses stock brakes so there is no need to upgrade! That will save me from needlessly spending money on upgraded brake pads and rotors. It’s fun watching you learn as you go!
Brakes on Chevrolets have always been easy to do. I have done my own for years, save a ton of money by doing it yourself. Btw, the lube should be placed on the slides and the backside of the pads, it will stop your brakes from making noise. Also, use an old pad and a c-clamp to compress the piston back in.
@@420motors happy to see you pumped the brakes before you put it in drive. This is very important. The pistons need to be seated. I had a friend who did not do this and crashed through his fence and wound up in his neighbors yard! 😆
I use a large "C" clamp to compress the pistons. Also, it might be a good idea to start the truck and pump up the brakes after you complete each wheel, so you won't be overflowing the master cylinder reservoir.
Good video ! Have to change my rear rotors and pads and just front pads , first time on my 2018 changing out pads for the first time with 63,000 ! Wow impressed you did,nt even compress the caliper with a c clamp !
A C clamp or two makes life easier compressing the pistons if you have limited hand strength. Also throw the tire up under the bumper. It literally saved my hand
Hey buddy, just a suggestion. When doing the front brakes/rotors, if you turn the steering wheel to turn the tires, you can get your impact driver in there. Simple solution. I know I felt like an idiot the first time someone pointed that out.
Great job! I always called it seating the brakes and part of that is going in reverse and putting on the breaks. Just a few times is good you don't need to do it 30 times
Lol. I noticed not much changed after the 3rd time. But was honest about lack of experience doing break jobs. Figured for the internet trolls I should just state the directions before I get into an online argument that I’m not qualified to win. I know people that have done break jobs that didn’t know about seating or bedding the breaks lol
Did you check the rear caliper pins for smooth movement? If you had uneven pad wear that would be the reason, regrease with silicone grease. Also, greasing the front pads is required. each pad has 4 grease ears (friction points). Nice video.
Big c clamp is the trick for pushing the pistons back in the caliper. Would like to do some off roading with you someday heck I'm in the Palm Springs area. 2020 ZR2. 1.5 body lift and rear shock sliders so far
Good job on 1st brake job! Don't forget to liberally use brake cleaner on everything. Once rotor and brake pads are off, use brake cleaner to spray everything prior to install of new parts. Here's my typical order of operation: 1 - open brake fluid reservoir lid 2 - remove rotor and old brake pads of either front or rear brakes (do them in pairs) - take pictures or do 1 tire at a time for reference 3 - spray clean calipers and around axle and clean inside rotor shroud. 4 - install new rotor and then spray it with brake cleaner to ensure no residue left from your fingers during install 5 - install new pads and then spray them with cleaner to ensure no residue 6 - once pads and rotors are back on axle, spray it one more time with brake cleaner just to be sure 7 - repeat with each tire until all 4 are done (always replace brakes in pairs on each axle or all 4 tires) 8 - replace brake fluid reservoir lid 9 - turn on truck and pump brake pedal until firm. 10 - properly break in rotors by slowly heating them up for first few miles - I recommend a few hundred miles of break in before any hard braking. If you don't replace rotors, you must take them to be resurfaced at a mechanics shop. If you're not sure how to properly break in a new rotor set, do your research otherwise you'll warp them and then have to get them surfaced or replaced.
You definitely do not need to resurface rotors every time . If you treat them right and there isn’t much wear you can easily just change the pads and carry on. Done it many time with no issue.
You don’t need to put loctite on those bolts that hold the rotor on your just making it harder the next time you change them they also have a tendency to rust and snap off or strip out
Always cool to watch your content. I have a Zr2 and you are one of the last guys on TH-cam that still makes content for our trucks.
Aw man. Yea will always try to help the zr2 community. Thanks
You made a great point; the race team still uses stock brakes so there is no need to upgrade! That will save me from needlessly spending money on upgraded brake pads and rotors. It’s fun watching you learn as you go!
Oh yea man. Brake upgrades are expensive and require cleaning maintenance so if you can get away with it no need for the performance upgrade
Brakes on Chevrolets have always been easy to do. I have done my own for years, save a ton of money by doing it yourself. Btw, the lube should be placed on the slides and the backside of the pads, it will stop your brakes from making noise. Also, use an old pad and a c-clamp to compress the piston back in.
Nice. Been surprised to find out that brakes is an area where chevy does well by comparison.
@@420motors happy to see you pumped the brakes before you put it in drive. This is very important. The pistons need to be seated. I had a friend who did not do this and crashed through his fence and wound up in his neighbors yard! 😆
Holy crap. Thanks man thanks for the tips too. I wouldn’t have known either If I wasn’t told
@@420motors glad someone told you and not find out the hard way like my buddy did! 😆
Lol. Yea that’s a tough way to learn anything. Still would have posted it for you guys though lol
Awesome. So nonchalant doing brakes. You crack me up.
I use a large "C" clamp to compress the pistons. Also, it might be a good idea to start the truck and pump up the brakes after you complete each wheel, so you won't be overflowing the master cylinder reservoir.
totally awesome dude ,that was funny when your finger got stuck behind the drill . thank you good vid!
Good video ! Have to change my rear rotors and pads and just front pads , first time on my 2018 changing out pads for the first time with 63,000 ! Wow impressed you did,nt even compress the caliper with a c clamp !
A C clamp or two makes life easier compressing the pistons if you have limited hand strength. Also throw the tire up under the bumper. It literally saved my hand
Shoot. Yea had the jack stands. Incredible how many do projects without them. Sketchy af. And yea c clamps or even channel locks would help a bunch
Hey buddy, just a suggestion. When doing the front brakes/rotors, if you turn the steering wheel to turn the tires, you can get your impact driver in there. Simple solution. I know I felt like an idiot the first time someone pointed that out.
Another great video man! Every time I see those GMPP ball spline half shafts on your rig I get jealous. Things are pricey as hell!
lol yea I’m glad I have them though. Lots of piece of mind
Nice job. Thanks for posting.
Great job! I always called it seating the brakes and part of that is going in reverse and putting on the breaks. Just a few times is good you don't need to do it 30 times
Lol. I noticed not much changed after the 3rd time. But was honest about lack of experience doing break jobs. Figured for the internet trolls I should just state the directions before I get into an online argument that I’m not qualified to win. I know people that have done break jobs that didn’t know about seating or bedding the breaks lol
Wear Ever Pads and Rotors from Advance or carquest are awesome factory painted too
Great informative video as usual 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Did you check the rear caliper pins for smooth movement? If you had uneven pad wear that would be the reason, regrease with silicone grease. Also, greasing the front pads is required. each pad has 4 grease ears (friction points). Nice video.
Lol thank you. Yea I didn’t install the first set of break pads. But I suspect you would be correct.
Big c clamp is the trick for pushing the pistons back in the caliper. Would like to do some off roading with you someday heck I'm in the Palm Springs area. 2020 ZR2. 1.5 body lift and rear shock sliders so far
Shoot. Just missed out day after Christmas run
Your title is spot on.
Thanks for posting. Awesome....
Good job on 1st brake job! Don't forget to liberally use brake cleaner on everything. Once rotor and brake pads are off, use brake cleaner to spray everything prior to install of new parts. Here's my typical order of operation:
1 - open brake fluid reservoir lid
2 - remove rotor and old brake pads of either front or rear brakes (do them in pairs) - take pictures or do 1 tire at a time for reference
3 - spray clean calipers and around axle and clean inside rotor shroud.
4 - install new rotor and then spray it with brake cleaner to ensure no residue left from your fingers during install
5 - install new pads and then spray them with cleaner to ensure no residue
6 - once pads and rotors are back on axle, spray it one more time with brake cleaner just to be sure
7 - repeat with each tire until all 4 are done (always replace brakes in pairs on each axle or all 4 tires)
8 - replace brake fluid reservoir lid
9 - turn on truck and pump brake pedal until firm.
10 - properly break in rotors by slowly heating them up for first few miles - I recommend a few hundred miles of break in before any hard braking.
If you don't replace rotors, you must take them to be resurfaced at a mechanics shop.
If you're not sure how to properly break in a new rotor set, do your research otherwise you'll warp them and then have to get them surfaced or replaced.
Thanks for the info man.
You definitely do not need to resurface rotors every time . If you treat them right and there isn’t much wear you can easily just change the pads and carry on. Done it many time with no issue.
Only one problem you don't just tighten the mounting bolts , you TORQUE them to spec.
You don’t need to put loctite on those bolts that hold the rotor on your just making it harder the next time you change them they also have a tendency to rust and snap off or strip out
C clamp and use the old brake pads to press the brake pistons back in
Yea seems the best way
I do it with C clamps. It's easy.
2:15 Lmao Nice Bleep .
Can you tell me about the non factory bump stops you have on top of the rear leaf springs?
Oh yea man. They are by super springs international. Made for the chevy Colorado though not the zr2. I’ll explain in an upcoming video
Can you post the info on the replacement parts. Brand model number etc?
thanks for this brother
You’re welcome man. Install videos are kinda my favorite. Glad it helped
How many miles on your truck? I'm taking mine in to Buena Park Chevy next week for the 3000 mile free oil change.
Shoot almost 70k now
You spelled done by idiots wrong
What are yellow braces?
Shoot don’t know. Did I say that? Lol
@@420motors I think he is talking about your bed braces. There is another video on the install of those braces.
Stock brakes in a 6k pound ZR2 will not hold the truck back on a 35+ degree downslope after they get hot. That shit is terrifying.
You had me at idiots.
Use a c clamp to close piston…..
Trust me someone will definitely find a way to do something wrong
Get yourself a cordless ratchet