Ever so sorry, but the main line turning of at the point (not going straight on) is something I abhor. To each his own I suppose, and sometimes there is no other option, but still... 😿 The poky bits on the points are quite useful if one operates the points mechanically by rods & wires, like me. But I'm a bit of a dinosaur who gets confused by more then 3 electrical wires.😸
Planning is the most important part of building a layout and the equivalent of the woodworking phrase "Measure twice, cut once!" Too many people don't think it through thoroughly before chopping wood and laying track... and then the realise they find themselves a year down the line, and picking up track because they changed their mind, wasting time and money.
Excellent video Charlie well done, its nice to hear your thoughts on what you are hoping to achieve, I had a need to lift some track a while back which came up ok but it didn't come up anywhere as cleanly as your did! The idea of cutting the track instead of having to lift a point to fit insulated rail joiners is a handy tip to remember especially for someone just starting out building a layout, its so easy to make a few mistakes along the way.....I know! I'm really looking forward to your next video keep up the good work. All the best Michael
You almost tempted me to watch another in bed. How decadent of me. No, I need to feed the dogs. I’ll watch it later. Ha ha. Great video Charlie. Shows how your audio volume consistency has improved in recent videos. Keep it up. Keith
This may seem an odd comment. It is. In this episode you used a blue paper to separate your glue up from you yearbooks you used a weights. It's not until Episode 2/Part 2 that you realize your error. HMMM! I detected the error as you were laying the paper down on the roadbed. I began scream at the RxR Clubs TV screen, "NOOOOOOO!" I don't know what products you have since the BriExit, however here in the U.S. we have a kitchen product called Cut-Rite. Cut-Rite is a translucent paper impregnated with wax. It is sometimes call wax paper. Had you used wax paper as your protective separation barrier you would have had the desired effect with but a few minor ticks of wax. The wax could have been removed with the a wiping of the tip with your finger. Well I'll keep watching, as long as my voice lasts. Better destinations ahead Charley.
Hi, Great tip regarding the wax paper. What a fool with the blue paper towel! I now use plastic carrier bags as the PVA doesn’t stick to it. Still, it’s always best to learn from other people’s mistakes. It’s good to have you guys onboard. Regards Charlie
Excellent videos. You not only tell us what you are doing but explain too why you are not using other solutions. I’m just starting a layout after 30 years break, so it’s all new. I’m enjoying the planning, so no rush, but I’m hoping to start baseboards in August. I have a couple of questions. 1: can you explain your baseboards substructure? What are the gaps near the baseboard joins? You’ve got only 2-3 inches before an additional brace? What and why? 2: how do I build the baseboard for a gradient / incline, especially going downhill? 3: in a later video you’ve spoken about having a viaduct. I’d also planned similar, and in the same sort of configuration as you. How do I design the baseboard for that? If the answers are in videos I’ve not yet looked at, just point me in the right direction. Keep up the inspiring work. You’ve convinced me I might have a chance. Brian.
Hi Brian, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Wow that’s a lot of questions. Regarding the viaduct, I’ll tackle that in a separate video. The board construction is mentioned in a previous video Chadwick Part 4 and its made of 12mm ply with 2” x 1” bracing. Regards Charlie
An excellent video Charlie. You are right about the tabs on the point tie bars, they look much better removed. I'm looking forward to the next video. Thank you for sharing. Regards John.
Hi Charlie Interesting video.... I'm glad you remarked about the surface mount tabs on points... my bugbear too. I only use electrofrog points, and do snip the wires underneath as you show, but i don't solder wires in , I remove the spring toggle as my points are all servo operated from under the boards. Looking forward to seeing the next update..... Regards Nigel at West Hatton model railway..
Hi Nigel, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’m in a dilemma of whether to switch to slow action point motors for the new build. I’m told that tortoise are the motors of choice but I have no knowledge at all. What do you use and more to the point, if you had nothing what would you chose today? Regards Charlie
Thanks for your reply.... For me budget was important, as you know equipment is so expensive ; I use the SG90 type of servo motors which can be bought for around £1 - £1.50 (in packs of 10) via ebay....It's not the slow action that I was after. I was horrified at the cost of the accessory modules the few amount of motors that would be controlled for the money!
Cheers Charlie. I haven't read anybody asking aobut the wireing for the points, is if you get time I would like to see that please. Thanks for the tip about the tabs, I will be removing those as well.
I will hopefully be returning to railway modelling this year after a 40 year break (Things have changed a bit :-) )The ballast removal tip is very useful for me as I may have three boards from a previous layout that I could use. I really enjoy your videos.
Hi TBS, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and welcome back to railway modelling. Hopefully you have subscribed so that I can keep you amused with my channel. Regards Charlie.
Great video.. not many channels draw you in from the start..but this new build has. I've hit the bell! I'm building a huge layout in the loft and fairly close to track laying, just wish it would warm up a touch so I can finish of the ply for the track deck 😥. so will be eager to see how this progresses.. Tim
So inspiring to watch every time, beat anything on TV as most things on TV are just repeats, why we pay a TV license, I do not know. Watch your TH-cam clip over and over are educational and professionally put over! You truly inspire those that are unsure of what to and how to do it. Thank you!
Hi Jamie, Many thanks for your rewarding comments. It’s very satisfying to be appreciated. I do hope I can keep up with one new video every Friday. Regards Charlie
Charlie, I think I have jumped the gun regarding the hot water, I should have watched the video in full before making what was an unnecessary comment. Perhaps I could now ask how hot do you make the water. Cheers Greg
Hi i have watched many of your video's which are brilliant, also subscribed, i cant remember which one for laying the cork, and how thick, can you please help. thank you. William
My only concern would be water & chipboard dont mix, could you not soften the PVA with a hair dryer? I have seen a number of failed baseboards due to just the moisture in the air.
I take your point but it’s only wet for a couple of minutes. The blue paper roll soon absorb and remaining water. It’s MDF boards which soon buckle when getting damp. However, I have never thought of using a hair dryer, have you? Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, never used it for PVA but have with hot melt adhesive and that worked OK. Who knows your diluted PVA might even form a moisture barrier, cheers, good luck, I also like your patriotism, keep up the good work....Martin
Great method for removing ballast, in the past I would chisel away for almost hours, never again, ps I notice a lot of builders use cork as a track base, I never have, is it purely for sound deadening?
I've never found cork that great for deadening the noise to be honest, and when it does it's marginal because the noise vibrates through the ballast. As Charlie points out, it's main function is to provide a ballast shoulder, which on the real railway, raises the track allowing rain to seep through the ballast and not pool which could wash the ballast away.
Hi Charlie, the ones that fold away, just use the edges to slip under the pin, gently squeeze together then pull out the pin for re use. Makes it so much easier.. Regards Len
Wiring “Rules and Conventions” - excellent. I’m with you on that and follow similar principles of which I am rather proud. Makes fault finding (rare) or additions a doddle. (The start of your clip reminded me of planning a Military Operation!) The short circuit issue, however, does intrigue me greatly so I’m paying particular attention to this aspect. I’ve heard people mention “PM42” which I need to explore. I think it both prevents short circuiting and shut down of sections (or Power Districts as they becoming known). Watching with interest. Best wishes, Bob
Very nice, can't wait to see it progress, as everybody I've seen on TH-cam has lots of little tips to offer! Currently working on redoing my layout at the moment as I decided if I'm going to do it I might as well do it properly, it has been stopped at the first hurdle, though, with this cold weather. Kind Regards, Charlie
Great video Charlie and wonderfully produced. I'll be watching closely and hopefully getting some ideas. Cheers Jerry
So pleased that you enjoyed it Jerry.
Chadwick TMD Yes I did, thank you👍🏻
Ever so sorry, but the main line turning of at the point (not going straight on) is something I abhor. To each his own I suppose, and sometimes there is no other option, but still... 😿
The poky bits on the points are quite useful if one operates the points mechanically by rods & wires, like me. But I'm a bit of a dinosaur who gets confused by more then 3 electrical wires.😸
Be careful, the dinosaurs didn’t last, just the crocodiles!
ROGER JARVIS 78yearyoung
Thanks Roger, stay safe mate,
regards, Charlie
wow the start is like a militray opp prep in a ww2 film...great vid...jim
Hi Jim, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Planning is the most important part of building a layout and the equivalent of the woodworking phrase "Measure twice, cut once!"
Too many people don't think it through thoroughly before chopping wood and laying track... and then the realise they find themselves a year down the line, and picking up track because they changed their mind, wasting time and money.
Excellent video Charlie well done, its nice to hear your thoughts on what you are hoping to achieve, I had a need to lift some track a while back which came up ok but it didn't come up anywhere as cleanly as your did!
The idea of cutting the track instead of having to lift a point to fit insulated rail joiners is a handy tip to remember especially for someone just starting out building a layout, its so easy to make a few mistakes along the way.....I know!
I'm really looking forward to your next video keep up the good work.
All the best
Michael
I'm so glad that you enjoyed it Michael. Regards Charlie
I love watching a layout begin from the start, well done, nice intermediate music too. Look forward to following your series. Skol! Ron//
So glad that you enjoyed it Ron. Regards Charlie
I have been looking forward to this start! Super video and great use of upcycling the old boards. Cheers for sharing! :)
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
You almost tempted me to watch another in bed. How decadent of me. No, I need to feed the dogs. I’ll watch it later. Ha ha. Great video Charlie. Shows how your audio volume consistency has improved in recent videos. Keep it up. Keith
I'm so pleased that you enjoy the channel Keith.
This may seem an odd comment. It is. In this episode you used a blue paper to separate your glue up from you yearbooks you used a weights. It's not until Episode 2/Part 2 that you realize your error. HMMM! I detected the error as you were laying the paper down on the roadbed. I began scream at the RxR Clubs TV screen, "NOOOOOOO!"
I don't know what products you have since the BriExit, however here in the U.S. we have a kitchen product called Cut-Rite.
Cut-Rite is a translucent paper impregnated with wax. It is sometimes call wax paper. Had you used wax paper as your protective separation barrier you would have had the desired effect with but a few minor ticks of wax. The wax could have been removed with the a wiping of the tip with your finger. Well I'll keep watching, as long as my voice lasts.
Better destinations ahead Charley.
Hi,
Great tip regarding the wax paper. What a fool with the blue paper towel! I now use plastic carrier bags as the PVA doesn’t stick to it.
Still, it’s always best to learn from other people’s mistakes.
It’s good to have you guys onboard.
Regards Charlie
;
?
Excellent videos. You not only tell us what you are doing but explain too why you are not using other solutions. I’m just starting a layout after 30 years break, so it’s all new. I’m enjoying the planning, so no rush, but I’m hoping to start baseboards in August. I have a couple of questions. 1: can you explain your baseboards substructure? What are the gaps near the baseboard joins? You’ve got only 2-3 inches before an additional brace? What and why? 2: how do I build the baseboard for a gradient / incline, especially going downhill? 3: in a later video you’ve spoken about having a viaduct. I’d also planned similar, and in the same sort of configuration as you. How do I design the baseboard for that? If the answers are in videos I’ve not yet looked at, just point me in the right direction. Keep up the inspiring work. You’ve convinced me I might have a chance. Brian.
Hi Brian,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Wow that’s a lot of questions.
Regarding the viaduct, I’ll tackle that in a separate video. The board construction is mentioned in a previous video Chadwick Part 4 and its made of 12mm ply with 2” x 1” bracing.
Regards Charlie
Great video as always Charlie and the new Chadwick will be up and running before we know it.
Peter
So pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
An excellent video Charlie. You are right about the tabs on the point tie bars, they look much better removed. I'm looking forward to the next video. Thank you for sharing.
Regards John.
So glad that you enjoyed it John. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Interesting video.... I'm glad you remarked about the surface mount tabs on points... my bugbear too.
I only use electrofrog points, and do snip the wires underneath as you show, but i don't solder wires in ,
I remove the spring toggle as my points are all servo operated from under the boards.
Looking forward to seeing the next update..... Regards Nigel at West Hatton model railway..
Hi Nigel,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
I’m in a dilemma of whether to switch to slow action point motors for the new build. I’m told that tortoise are the motors of choice but I have no knowledge at all. What do you use and more to the point, if you had nothing what would you chose today?
Regards Charlie
Thanks for your reply....
For me budget was important, as you know equipment is so expensive ; I use the SG90 type of servo motors which can be bought for around £1 - £1.50 (in packs of 10) via ebay....It's not the slow action that I was after.
I was horrified at the cost of the accessory modules the few amount of motors that would be controlled for the money!
Cheers Charlie. I haven't read anybody asking aobut the wireing for the points, is if you get time I would like to see that please. Thanks for the tip about the tabs, I will be removing those as well.
So pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’ll cover point wiring next time. Regards Charlie.
I will hopefully be returning to railway modelling this year after a 40 year break (Things have changed a bit :-) )The ballast removal tip is very useful for me as I may have three boards from a previous layout that I could use. I really enjoy your videos.
Hi TBS,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and welcome back to railway modelling.
Hopefully you have subscribed so that I can keep you amused with my channel.
Regards Charlie.
Great video.. not many channels draw you in from the start..but this new build has. I've hit the bell! I'm building a huge layout in the loft and fairly close to track laying, just wish it would warm up a touch so I can finish of the ply for the track deck 😥. so will be eager to see how this progresses..
Tim
Hi Tim, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Hopefully I can maintain your interest. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for putting up this video explaining how to remove ballast, I will have a go over this weekend, many thanks Rog.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Nice one Charlie. Always look forward to your videos mate. Can’t wait for this one to progress. Enjoy the weekend!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, the new Chadwick will look great, I'll be here every Friday from now on............John.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie.
So inspiring to watch every time, beat anything on TV as most things on TV are just repeats, why we pay a TV license, I do not know. Watch your TH-cam clip over and over are educational and professionally put over! You truly inspire those that are unsure of what to and how to do it. Thank you!
Hi Jamie,
Many thanks for your rewarding comments.
It’s very satisfying to be appreciated.
I do hope I can keep up with one new video every Friday.
Regards Charlie
Does the warm water cause the particleboard to swell up? I do enjoy your videos. Thanks from NC
Hi, I’m unsure what particle board is I’m afraid. Plywood is okay but I dry it with paper towels once I’ve finished.
Regards Charlie
Really very interesting. I have just built my tables and now faced with the daunting task of laying track.Never done this before
Hi Charlie,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Good luck with your own layout.
Regards Charlie
Charlie, I think I have jumped the gun regarding the hot water, I should have watched the video in full before making what was an unnecessary comment. Perhaps I could now ask how hot do you make the water. Cheers Greg
Hi Greg,
I just used water that wouldn’t burn. One guy said that cold water was just as good but warm/hot worked for me. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie.
Great video as always Charlie good bit of re-cycling to. Totally agree with you on choosing Peco over Hornby track and points. .. All the best .. Pete
Hi Pete, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Enjoyed the video Charlie, looking forward to the next one, cheers Paul
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Hi i have watched many of your video's which are brilliant, also subscribed, i cant remember which one for laying the cork, and how thick, can you please help. thank you. William
I have used 3mm cork rolls Andrew.
thank you very much
My only concern would be water & chipboard dont mix, could you not soften the PVA with a hair dryer? I have seen a number of failed baseboards due to just the moisture in the air.
I take your point but it’s only wet for a couple of minutes. The blue paper roll soon absorb and remaining water.
It’s MDF boards which soon buckle when getting damp.
However, I have never thought of using a hair dryer, have you? Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, never used it for PVA but have with hot melt adhesive and that worked OK. Who knows your diluted PVA might even form a moisture barrier, cheers, good luck, I also like your patriotism, keep up the good work....Martin
As below, very enjoyable. An electro frog points video would be helpful. Cheers.
Hi, I will certainly produce a “points video “. Regards Charlie
Hi, I've just uploaded a new video on Elecrofrog points. Regards Charlie
will put steam engine shed and turntable back on the board
No I’m afraid that I’m a diesel modeller.
I will however have a preserved steam train “on tour”.
Regards Charlie
Great method for removing ballast, in the past I would chisel away for almost hours, never again, ps I notice a lot of builders use cork as a track base, I never have, is it purely for sound deadening?
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Using cork does help with sound deadening but it also helps to form a good ballast shoulder. Regards Charlie
I've never found cork that great for deadening the noise to be honest, and when it does it's marginal because the noise vibrates through the ballast.
As Charlie points out, it's main function is to provide a ballast shoulder, which on the real railway, raises the track allowing rain to seep through the ballast and not pool which could wash the ballast away.
Glad to see I'm not the only one that hates the studs on the switching arm of a point.... like you I clip them off too!!
Great that we both make a point of it!
Polysemic humour... love it!!
I'm just about to upload a new video... given you're class 33 nose work, I think you'll appreciate it!
Prepared to start spending ALL your pension, Model railways are bloody expensive
Still, beats living it to the kids! 😀
Chadwick TMD indeed
great upload waiting in anticipation for more, this is one I will try and follow to the end.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
A bit late now but I always find that the easiest way to remove track pins is with a set of nail cutters
Now there’s something I have never thought of. Do you mean the side cutters of the ones that fold away?
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, the ones that fold away, just use the edges to slip under the pin, gently squeeze together then pull out the pin for re use. Makes it so much easier.. Regards Len
hey thanks for the reply in a previous video now i found the first one you done so great work and i look forward to learn
Hi Paul, I try to put a new video out on Friday at 1200. Hope that you enjoy them. Regards Charlie
I sure do best vids on going through each step extremely helpful
Great video looking forward to more. John
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John. Regards Charlie.
Great video can't wait till the next one
Glad you liked it Paul.
Another great video.
So glad that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
"So this is, this end of the..."!
...... I shouldn’t think so!
Wiring “Rules and Conventions” - excellent. I’m with you on that and follow similar principles of which I am rather proud. Makes fault finding (rare) or additions a doddle. (The start of your clip reminded me of planning a Military Operation!)
The short circuit issue, however, does intrigue me greatly so I’m paying particular attention to this aspect. I’ve heard people mention “PM42” which I need to explore. I think it both prevents short circuiting and shut down of sections (or Power Districts as they becoming known).
Watching with interest. Best wishes, Bob
So glad that you enjoyed it Bob. Regards Charlie
Very nice, can't wait to see it progress, as everybody I've seen on TH-cam has lots of little tips to offer! Currently working on redoing my layout at the moment as I decided if I'm going to do it I might as well do it properly, it has been stopped at the first hurdle, though, with this cold weather. Kind Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, I’m so pleased that the video is of use. Good luck with yours and post a video if you can. Regards Charlie
What kind of saw I that you're using for the track I'm trying to get one myself
Hi, Ive left a link in the "Show More" tab. It's made by Dremel.