pro tip... if you freeze the bearing, warm up the case (don't freeze it) and they will fall together :) same with the output shaft (for the internal bushing)
Just a little tip on those shift rails,where the slot is for the shift levers go,most are pretty sharp on the end that slides through seals,I take a small file and bevel them some to keep from tearing those seals,it seemed to help when I put mine together!
I ended up making a little shield out of a soda can to wrap around that part of the shaft so it would slip past the seal without damaging it. Worked ok, but I like the idea of smoothing out that sharp edge with a file.
It is great to see the transfer case coming back together! I feel the same, as you progress on your project you do get wiser and realize how important it is to do things right. Japanese bearings are great, so long as they are well calibrated and lubricated they'll last a long time. Like you mention I'd make any final conclusions once the poppet springs are on, to see if the fork needs replacing. I don't bother reusing old yokes normally the splines are worn (I believe your front one was sliding too easy) and the seal area is also usually a mess, so I just get a new one. You can always speedysleeve it, if the splines are good. Hope you can find someone who will turn the drum right.
pro tip... put a dab of grease on the inside of the seal where the spring is, this will keep the spring from popping off the seal lip when your drive it is (it happens)🙂
Hi, During assembly I have found that there is wobble on the output gear on the main shaft. It is about 0.050". Is this normal or excessive? Really good video with very clear instruction.
This was actually my first Dana 18 rebuild so I don't know how well I can speak to what might constitute excessive wear if you are reusing your existing output shaft and output gear. Is it wobbling side to side? Or front to back along the shaft? Movement along the shaft front to back should be ok. The snap ring will hold it in place and once some oil gets in there and it meshes with the intermediate gear, it theoretically shouldn't matter. Rewatching the video, even with new gears on an original output shaft, I don't think mine was movement free. A lot of people will drain the water and oil out, throw in fresh oil, and run it as found. They might be noisy but they work. The Dana 18 is a pretty sturdy transfer case that can handle a lot of abuse. Honestly, it'll probably be fine once you refill the transfer case.
Hi, Thanks for getting back to me. It is wobbling from side to side, diagonally/corner to corner so to speak. Like you say the Dana 18 is pretty robust. Any more thoughts?
@@Paul-kl5fs I just looked at my other D18 that's from an M38A1 (but effectively the same). It has the same kind of wobble. I get the feeling that it's fine, especially once the case is full of oil.
Hi, I went ahead and removed the shaft and gear to check. Upon removal and inspection it was glaringly obvious what was wrong. There was severe wear on the shaft in the region of 0.020". I will have to replace the 'F' marked shaft and possibly the gear as well.
Wouldn't want some play on the shift fork? The receiver is not a bearing. They are not designed to be in constant contact while spinning, it is just an actuating lever. Something to consider Also, the emergency brake, unlike the wheel brakes, is not engaged with friction under constant rotation. If you have enough contact patch to hold a 2200 lb vehicle, with the mechanical advantage of your differential(s) gear reduction in place, you should be fine. While it is prudent to have the drum turned,, and i would encourage you to do so, you'll probably be fine if you don't.
Just drive around with the e brake engaged and the shoes will conform to the shape of the drum... I won't advise that, but ask me how i know... If it ever happens, be prepared to replace the output shaft seal
Both of these comments are helpful. There's just a ton of play on the shift fork because it was an extremely leaky case and was obviously run with low or no oil for a bit now that I really look at it. I'll have to see how it actuates with the poppet balls and levers on, because just spinning it in the case, the intermediate gear actually rubs the sliding gear at times when the high/low gear shift rail is in the "neutral" position. I would hope to never have to use it as an emergency brake at speed but due to Arkansas terrain, I would need a dependable parking brake. And I could see how the heat from that would burn up an output seal. That could be why mine was in the condition it was in when I got the Jeep... The drum was in rough shape, the shoes were gone, and the output seal was in very bad, very leaky shape. Almost like someone abused it, trashed the seal, then removed the shoes to prevent a fire, but didn't fix the leak.
For some reason TH-cam keeps holding your comments for review so I miss them. Weird. I think we've actually already spoken over Facebook in one of the many vintage Jeep groups but I have a contact email on my channel page if needed. (I'm interested in that roll bar you have for sale but I haven't had any free time to think about a drive to Mena and back. I think the CJ5 ones will fit on a 2A but it's a little tight.)
pro tip... if you freeze the bearing, warm up the case (don't freeze it) and they will fall together :) same with the output shaft (for the internal bushing)
Thank you for this beautiful video, very clear and descriptive. Congratulations!
Just a little tip on those shift rails,where the slot is for the shift levers go,most are pretty sharp on the end that slides through seals,I take a small file and bevel them some to keep from tearing those seals,it seemed to help when I put mine together!
I ended up making a little shield out of a soda can to wrap around that part of the shaft so it would slip past the seal without damaging it. Worked ok, but I like the idea of smoothing out that sharp edge with a file.
@@SunkCostGarage Good,hope it goes back together and works good for a long time!
It is great to see the transfer case coming back together! I feel the same, as you progress on your project you do get wiser and realize how important it is to do things right. Japanese bearings are great, so long as they are well calibrated and lubricated they'll last a long time. Like you mention I'd make any final conclusions once the poppet springs are on, to see if the fork needs replacing. I don't bother reusing old yokes normally the splines are worn (I believe your front one was sliding too easy) and the seal area is also usually a mess, so I just get a new one. You can always speedysleeve it, if the splines are good. Hope you can find someone who will turn the drum right.
pro tip... put a dab of grease on the inside of the seal where the spring is, this will keep the spring from popping off the seal lip when your drive it is (it happens)🙂
The overdrive on my t90/d18 is made in Japan. Works great and is wearing without issue.
Hi, During assembly I have found that there is wobble on the output gear on the main shaft. It is about 0.050".
Is this normal or excessive?
Really good video with very clear instruction.
This was actually my first Dana 18 rebuild so I don't know how well I can speak to what might constitute excessive wear if you are reusing your existing output shaft and output gear. Is it wobbling side to side? Or front to back along the shaft? Movement along the shaft front to back should be ok. The snap ring will hold it in place and once some oil gets in there and it meshes with the intermediate gear, it theoretically shouldn't matter. Rewatching the video, even with new gears on an original output shaft, I don't think mine was movement free.
A lot of people will drain the water and oil out, throw in fresh oil, and run it as found. They might be noisy but they work. The Dana 18 is a pretty sturdy transfer case that can handle a lot of abuse. Honestly, it'll probably be fine once you refill the transfer case.
Hi, Thanks for getting back to me. It is wobbling from side to side,
diagonally/corner to corner so to speak. Like you say the Dana 18 is pretty robust. Any more thoughts?
@@Paul-kl5fs I just looked at my other D18 that's from an M38A1 (but effectively the same). It has the same kind of wobble. I get the feeling that it's fine, especially once the case is full of oil.
Hi, Thank you very much for taking the time to check this out for me.
Hi, I went ahead and removed the shaft and gear to check. Upon removal and inspection it was glaringly obvious what was wrong. There was severe wear on the shaft in the region of 0.020". I will have to replace the 'F' marked shaft and possibly the gear as well.
Wouldn't want some play on the shift fork? The receiver is not a bearing. They are not designed to be in constant contact while spinning, it is just an actuating lever. Something to consider
Also, the emergency brake, unlike the wheel brakes, is not engaged with friction under constant rotation. If you have enough contact patch to hold a 2200 lb vehicle, with the mechanical advantage of your differential(s) gear reduction in place, you should be fine. While it is prudent to have the drum turned,, and i would encourage you to do so, you'll probably be fine if you don't.
Just drive around with the e brake engaged and the shoes will conform to the shape of the drum... I won't advise that, but ask me how i know... If it ever happens, be prepared to replace the output shaft seal
Both of these comments are helpful. There's just a ton of play on the shift fork because it was an extremely leaky case and was obviously run with low or no oil for a bit now that I really look at it. I'll have to see how it actuates with the poppet balls and levers on, because just spinning it in the case, the intermediate gear actually rubs the sliding gear at times when the high/low gear shift rail is in the "neutral" position.
I would hope to never have to use it as an emergency brake at speed but due to Arkansas terrain, I would need a dependable parking brake. And I could see how the heat from that would burn up an output seal. That could be why mine was in the condition it was in when I got the Jeep... The drum was in rough shape, the shoes were gone, and the output seal was in very bad, very leaky shape. Almost like someone abused it, trashed the seal, then removed the shoes to prevent a fire, but didn't fix the leak.
Where in Arkansas do you live?
West Little Rock
@@SunkCostGarage I,m in Mena.How do I get in touch with you?
For some reason TH-cam keeps holding your comments for review so I miss them. Weird. I think we've actually already spoken over Facebook in one of the many vintage Jeep groups but I have a contact email on my channel page if needed. (I'm interested in that roll bar you have for sale but I haven't had any free time to think about a drive to Mena and back. I think the CJ5 ones will fit on a 2A but it's a little tight.)
@@SunkCostGarage I would like to get your contact info
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