Brian, in addition to your fantastic efforts spreading knowledge and skill to us late to the game Willys jeepers like me, it’s pretty cool you sound like Joe Friday from Dragnet! Thanks for your guidance and Jeep stewardship!
Thank you I saw you using the seal puller and I went and purchased one on e-bay ya my tool box is filling up every time I see you do something new and I need to watch these videos it really saves me a lot of time getting ready for the next job, really wish you tube was around 40 years ago .. thank you again and keep the videos coming ..
Glad you are enjoying my videos, and your tool box is filling up with goodies. you will never be sorry buying good quality tools to work with. Enjoy your project. Brian
I have a gang coming over Saturday to remove the tub on our CJ2A, 1948. We were going to buy an older one but he didn't have a title. Anyway the first step will be the transfer case. You show two special tools. The blue bar and the seal puller. Where can I get those? I'm sure you've answered this question a bunch of times. Thanks for the videos - it provides the courage to just crack open the case. Can't wait. Thanks again. Ron & Jan
Brain, another great video. The 66 cj5 we just bought had water in steering G-Box, was happy not to find in transfer, trans, are both Axles, but your instruction videos are priceless, Bear.
Mike, great job on getting a transmission jack. you will find it super handy around your shop and it will save your back on the heavy jobs. let me know how your project is coming along.
Thank you for these tutorials. I'm just retired and tearing into an old 69 CJ5. You are definitely tutoring me with your videos. Priceless! Could you tell me where I might buy one of those blue tools you use when you're pulling those yokes?
Love your videos they really help. I'm having a problem with the input gear train getting to the snap ring. You said that you tapped the bearing cone out. Mine seems to be stuck and I'm afraid to hit the shaft harder. ????
Working on our 1948 CJ2A's transfer case. I've looked for the seal puller you use but of course not available - even checked eBay. Is the option to use a big screw driver and pound away? I did that on the first one and it wasn't pretty. Those seals are tough.Thanks again for your videos. By the way, ignore those folks who don't want to hear your desciptions. We love your process of walking us through the build out, and the side comments are invaluable. Keep it up. Sincerely, Ron and Jan
If you are doing a complete tear down and rebuild on the transfer case just pull off the front cap and rear bearing retainer and carefully punch out the seal from the back side. Easier than trying to pry it out from the front. The seal remover that I use has been discontinued for a long time. I bought out the last remaining stock and had a bunch of them until I started the youtube channel. They sold out very fast and I don't have any spares left for sale.
First off, your knowledge and sharing of that knowledge on videos is awesome. I have a 55 truck and am having trouble separating the front bearing housing (similar to the issue you had in this video). however, my shift shafts are pretty clean and I do not believe that is the problem. Springs and ball bearings are out, so I am at a loss. Stuck half way out and half in. Can the interlock bind up and prevent separation?
Yes it is common for the interlock pin to get sticky and not move enough to remove the front cap. Shift the rods in different positions and keep some pressure on the cap and it should come off when you find the "sweet spot" with the shift rods. I usually leave the interlock out so you can have 2wd low range.
I like the seal remover tool, that works very well, if you were changing a seal in situ it would be a huge advantage over the normal method of gouging it out with a spike. Would it be a good idea to steam clean the unit off before dismantling, given that any water that got into it would be no problem as you would be stripping it down the same day.
The seal remover is a real time saver and I would be lost without it. I always dismantle to get the critical pieces out, and then sandblast. After that a very thorough cleaning. Keep watching and I will show the whole process as it happens. Thanks for your continued support.
Hey another great video. I've professionally rebuilt two model 18 transfer cases already. Nice to see another version of a pro rebuild. Have 1 question though, I would have loved to see how you removed the two tapered bearings. As for your question about a wider shift rod seal, check out the SKF 2669, it has two lips and it's .375 wide.
I would like to replace the gasket between that front shifter housing and the case with the case still in the Jeep. 1) Does the transfer case need to be in Neutral and 2WD to remove the front housing? 2) The shift mechanism that you handle at 15:30. Does that stay in the housing without issue or do I need to worry about it falling out? 3) Mainly, I want to Know if pulling the front housing is possible without having to dismantle the case to put it back on. 4) Same with rear speedometer housing. Is it possible to just pull that off without a shaft coming out? Do I need the transfer case or the transmission in any gear to pull the front or rear housing?
I know I am late to this older video: But thanks for these. I am rebuilding my transmission and transfer case for the 1st time. I could not do it without these. Question: How do you get the nuts off the yokes in front and emergency brake? I can’t find a good way to not have things spin
Great videos...very helpful. Just wondering about how you prepare the parts for sandblasting. Assume you degrease first then mask off and plug all the holes, bearing surfaces etc. What is important on this? I notice you assemble some components before prime and paint, others afterwards. Any particular reason for that? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. I usually try to keep out all sand but no big deal. Everything gets a thorough cleaning before assembly. Keep watching as the entire vehicle comes together.
on the front cap where the shift levers are, should the cap pull off when in neutral should the cap just pull off, how do they slip pass the center lock pin? Only some dirt on the shafts could be stopping them?
Had to come back to this video as that now the E-Brake drum was removed on Fri on our CJ5. Even though there is only .007 shaft play, I will use your advise to inspect bearings and thrust washers just for peace of mind. I disassembled the speed-o-meter just to detail,(showing 36310) and the plastic gear has no ware, and tumblers are in perfect condition as well. With no end play in either front or rear differential out shafts, and +/- .001 of the transfer out put shaft, and now fill mileage may be true. I will post more on our channel as we pull out the gears, ect. Happy Holidays to you, Maria, Subscribers, and customers, Bear
They do come up on ebay from time to time. I bought out miller stock about 20 years ago. there was so much interest from the videos that I sold out of them in short time. Keep checking ebay as that is the only place I see them for sale any longer.
metalshaper As seems to be the case so many good companies and good technology and skills and craftsmanship are being lost. Many early technological developments were thrown on the scrap heap before they were ever fully understood. I dabble in wood stove history and technology and have experienced so remarkable results by trial and error. Wood gas production and combustion. I'm not a scientist I just build on what I have observed and apply new state of the art materials such as high temperature ceramic materials such as are designed to shield thermal sensors in extremely high temperature furnaces mostly used in the production of super alloys. Sorry to ramble on. My point is their are so few people like yourself that dig a little deeper into how things are and more importantly were made. We have both the before and after or present technologies to investigate. Are prospective view is here and now in the middle of the industrial revolution which is blurring by at light speed. I don't produce and videos but I am compiling a good list of you tube channels with artisans like yourself. Perhaps we can safe these skills sets for future generations. Keep up the good work. I could go on forever I just love building, rebuilding mechanical things of all sorts. Have a nice day.
Hi Brian,when you take out the shift interlock pin,do you replace those springs or leave them out,with the pin removed you wouldnt need to put them back in would you! Good Video! Thanks!
The shift interlock is between the shift rails. The poppet balls and springs need to be installed to give a proper detent for the shifter so they do need to be installed on each side.
I'm new to building my M38 and so far all is going well with the front axle rebuild. I have been following several of your TH-cam videos and really appreciate them. My question is regarding the torque for the pinion shaft nut. I have read in several manuals that it should be torqued to 200-220 lb-ft. If I understand your video correctly you are recommending that the final torque be 100 lb-ft. Is that correct or what am I misunderstanding? Your response would be much appreciated. Thanks.
yes it works very well on the pinion seals as well. I don't often use it on pinion seals because they are easier to remove by just popping them out with a seal remover. But stubborn ones always get the W-251
With the interlock shift rail pin removed so one can run in 2 wheel low in 1st gear... so I would have my transmission in 1st gear, so does that automatically put it in 2 wheel low with the pin removed? If not can you explain the process of getting into 2 wheel low? I already have the pin out, in process of replacing the seals and gaskets! Thanks John
pitted teeth on your gears can be a problem, they will be noisy on the road and deteriorate quickly. If you can send a photo I can better help you decide what to do. metalshaper@comcast.net Brian
How did you pop the tiny seals out? Any tips for removing the bigger seals without the Willys speciality tool you have? Thanks! This video made disassembly a breeze.
You can remove those shifter seals with a very stout screwdriver or small chisel. Get under them and work them until they pop out. You may have to destroy them and pull them out with a pliers. Tough little seals. I have copied and pasted another guys response to how I remove the yoke seals. Seems like he has a better way. Look up A Dog and ask him how he does it. I always use the remover tool because those seals are tough to get out. You can remove the cap and try to tap them out from the inside if you are doing a complete rebuild. Maybe A Dog has a better way, he says that I spent too much time getting a seal out. Brian A Dog Not sure why one would spend soooo much time removing a seal.... pointless
Brian, you speak often of ordering parts such as those seals and shims in this transfer case. Where do you find the odds and ends of pieces for such older machinery? I have a 1981 Jeep Renegade CJ-7 and plan to rebuild the transfer case and the transmission some time in the future, but I'm afraid finding all of the parts I'll need won't be possible through the local parts stores.....even NAPA. Oh, and my transfer case is supposed to be a Dana 300 and I'm not sure of the transmission. My son-in-law told me that he had some friend of his find a replacement (used) 4 spd right after he bought the Jeep because 3rd gear in the original was gone. I haven't looked for any markings yet, but the trans has an extra low ration 1st and the reverse is over and to the rear. You shift it normally as 2,3, and 4. Mainly, where do you order all of the specialty parts you use in your rebuilds? I really enjoy your videos with your no nonsense way of explaining how every thing is done. You come across clear and very knowledgeable without all the extra crap so many others on TH-cam like to throw in. And, especially thanks for not putting in some crappy background music. Have a Blessed Day.
Hello, I am a novice enjoying your videos. I am rebuilding along with your videos a T90 in my 65 CJ5, for fun. I am also doing the dana 18 transfer case however, I am stuck and cannot remove the 2 shift levers. You said remove the pin. Do I bang it out? If so, from which side? And somehow, the front case slides out about 3 or 4 inches then its stuck... was fun, until now. Lol. Help pls... Thanks...
make sure the retaining bolt is out if it has one . sometimes the pin pushes out easily other times you will have to take a punch and drive it out. Does not matter which way you drive it out just hit it until it comes out. Next to remove the front cap you must have the transfer case in neutral, that way the shift rails can move past the interlock pin. It takes some patience and make sure you are in neutral or you will never get the front cap off. Hope that answers your questions. Brian
Wow... thanks for the quick k reply!! I will keep trying. Now my jeep has not ran, can you also tell me where neutral is? Bit confused. 2 levers... 1st one all the way fwd and 2nd lever in the middle? Is that correct? Thank you again... Tony
Question, A friend has my Willy's book, the trans case I have doesn't have the bolt on the side, the one that holds the ball and spring for the shiftier, looks like a crazy molded one from the factory. One shiftier stick is bent, not straight like the one in my 2A's and 53 Pickup. How does the shiftier rods come out and is their a spring and ball in it. Thanks
you have to search for used tools. These service tools are no longer made so the only place to find them is at flea markets, online, used tool sellers etc.... Good luck. Brian
Dilemma: I am rebuilding my D18 case and cannot get the output bearing cap off. I have the left lever all the way forward and the other where I can spin the small gear by hand. Cannot slide the cap off and I think the interlock pin has it hung up. I have struggled with this for two solid days now and am at a complete loss.
you need to be in neutral to allow the cap to come off. If the pin is indeed stuck you are going to need to take the whole shaft out with the front cap. Happens from time to time.
You obviously know what your doing, but I don't understand why you didn't pressure wash the transfer case off before disassembling it? Or just scraped and wire brushed it so as not to blow contaminants into or through bad seals and then into possibly good bearings.
All the residue and water will be considered contaminated waste and has to be disposed of as such. By scraping it off, you have less waste to contend with, and less money to spend to dispose of it.
hi,I have just body Jeep Willys 1958,and I want to put some engine to be 4x4, if someone know guys ,wich engine and some stuff I can use for my willys to make ready for drive? please
A Dog, it would be great if you could show a video of how you remove that seal, or are you just thinking you have a better way. It is a tough seal to remove so that is why I showed an easy way to remove it. As always I have an open invitation to folks like you to come visit my shop and show me how you would do it. You are welcome to use any tools, jigs, machines, etc... in the shop. Show me a better way if you have one !!!
Brian, in addition to your fantastic efforts spreading knowledge and skill to us late to the game Willys jeepers like me, it’s pretty cool you sound like Joe Friday from Dragnet! Thanks for your guidance and Jeep stewardship!
Metalshaper thank you for taking us along on close up videos rebuilding the Willys, I like to sea and learn.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you Brian. I couldn't done it without you!! You are a legend among the flat fender crowd.
Glad to help!
Thank you I saw you using the seal puller and I went and purchased one on e-bay ya my tool box is filling up every time I see you do something new and I need to watch these videos it really saves me a lot of time getting ready for the next job, really wish you tube was around 40 years ago .. thank you again and keep the videos coming ..
Glad you are enjoying my videos, and your tool box is filling up with goodies. you will never be sorry buying good quality tools to work with. Enjoy your project. Brian
You have a wonderful voice to listen to while disassembling a transfer case thank you for entertaining me
Hi Brian, thank you for your videos as well as your willingness to share your knowledge. Your videos has helped me allot.
Glad I could help
I have rebuilt several T-90 transmissions and Transfer Cases. Very good videos!
I have a gang coming over Saturday to remove the tub on our CJ2A, 1948. We were going to buy an older one but he didn't have a title. Anyway the first step will be the transfer case. You show two special tools. The blue bar and the seal puller. Where can I get those? I'm sure you've answered this question a bunch of times. Thanks for the videos - it provides the courage to just crack open the case. Can't wait. Thanks again. Ron & Jan
The tools I show in the video have not been made in a long time so you may have to find them used somewhere, such as ebay or flea markets.
Brain, another great video. The 66 cj5 we just bought had water in steering G-Box, was happy not to find in transfer, trans, are both Axles, but your instruction videos are priceless, Bear.
Hey Brian, you'll be proud of me, I got myself a transmission jack to try do this part.
Mike, great job on getting a transmission jack. you will find it super handy around your shop and it will save your back on the heavy jobs. let me know how your project is coming along.
Learning a lot that I was always afraid to jump into. Thanks for the videos
Glad you are enjoying the videos, comments like yours let me know that people want to see them. Thanks for the comment.
Great videos. I'm about to start the disassembly of my recently acquired Dana 20 transfer case.
Thanks again for your video series, these are great. The 2 wheel drive in low range makes sense, very good information.
Thank you. These videos are very helpful. Thank you very much!
Thank you for these tutorials. I'm just retired and tearing into an old 69 CJ5. You are definitely tutoring me with your videos. Priceless! Could you tell me where I might buy one of those blue tools you use when you're pulling those yokes?
you have to search ebay and internet sites to find them these days, but they are common and come up often.
Thank you!
Found one on ebay. I guess since I don't have a shop or do this professionally it's a bit over budget for me. Still makes me salivate.
Love your videos they really help. I'm having a problem with the input gear train getting to the snap ring. You said that you tapped the bearing cone out. Mine seems to be stuck and I'm afraid to hit the shaft harder. ????
Working on our 1948 CJ2A's transfer case. I've looked for the seal puller you use but of course not available - even checked eBay. Is the option to use a big screw driver and pound away? I did that on the first one and it wasn't pretty. Those seals are tough.Thanks again for your videos. By the way, ignore those folks who don't want to hear your desciptions. We love your process of walking us through the build out, and the side comments are invaluable. Keep it up. Sincerely, Ron and Jan
If you are doing a complete tear down and rebuild on the transfer case just pull off the front cap and rear bearing retainer and carefully punch out the seal from the back side. Easier than trying to pry it out from the front. The seal remover that I use has been discontinued for a long time. I bought out the last remaining stock and had a bunch of them until I started the youtube channel. They sold out very fast and I don't have any spares left for sale.
First off, your knowledge and sharing of that knowledge on videos is awesome. I have a 55 truck and am having trouble separating the front bearing housing (similar to the issue you had in this video). however, my shift shafts are pretty clean and I do not believe that is the problem. Springs and ball bearings are out, so I am at a loss. Stuck half way out and half in. Can the interlock bind up and prevent separation?
Yes it is common for the interlock pin to get sticky and not move enough to remove the front cap. Shift the rods in different positions and keep some pressure on the cap and it should come off when you find the "sweet spot" with the shift rods. I usually leave the interlock out so you can have 2wd low range.
love the tool! thats seal took me hours!
I like the seal remover tool, that works very well, if you were changing a seal in situ it would be a huge advantage over the normal method of gouging it out with a spike. Would it be a good idea to steam clean the unit off before dismantling, given that any water that got into it would be no problem as you would be stripping it down the same day.
The seal remover is a real time saver and I would be lost without it. I always dismantle to get the critical pieces out, and then sandblast. After that a very thorough cleaning. Keep watching and I will show the whole process as it happens. Thanks for your continued support.
Englishman French
Hey another great video. I've professionally rebuilt two model 18 transfer cases already. Nice to see another version of a pro rebuild. Have 1 question though, I would have loved to see how you removed the two tapered bearings. As for your question about a wider shift rod seal, check out the SKF 2669, it has two lips and it's .375 wide.
thanks for the comment Paul. I have another transfer case coming in for rebuild and if I have time I will show the bearing removal.
I would like to replace the gasket between that front shifter housing and the case with the case still in the Jeep.
1) Does the transfer case need to be in Neutral and 2WD to remove the front housing?
2) The shift mechanism that you handle at 15:30. Does that stay in the housing without issue or do I need to worry about it falling out?
3) Mainly, I want to
Know if pulling the front housing is possible without having to dismantle the case to put it back on.
4) Same with rear speedometer housing. Is it possible to just pull that off without a shaft coming out? Do I need the transfer case or the transmission in any gear to pull the front or rear housing?
I know I am late to this older video: But thanks for these. I am rebuilding my transmission and transfer case for the 1st time. I could not do it without these. Question: How do you get the nuts off the yokes in front and emergency brake? I can’t find a good way to not have things spin
Just use and impact gun and the nuts will come right off. put in low gear and it will be easy
Gentleman, very close shots. We got confused on which part you are working on...?
you should do a video on how to just remove the interlock pill. I haven't seen any videos on how to just do that.
Great videos...very helpful. Just wondering about how you prepare the parts for sandblasting. Assume you degrease first then mask off and plug all the holes, bearing surfaces etc. What is important on this? I notice you assemble some components before prime and paint, others afterwards. Any particular reason for that? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. I usually try to keep out all sand but no big deal. Everything gets a thorough cleaning before assembly. Keep watching as the entire vehicle comes together.
on the front cap where the shift levers are, should the cap pull off when in neutral should the cap just pull off, how do they slip pass the center lock pin? Only some dirt on the shafts could be stopping them?
Enjoyed your info on correct gear oil, have a cj3b being redone, live in south , what oil do you recommend. Thanks
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a price sheet with lubrication information.
Brian
Had to come back to this video as that now the E-Brake drum was removed on Fri on our CJ5. Even though there is only .007 shaft play, I will use your advise to inspect bearings and thrust washers just for peace of mind. I disassembled the speed-o-meter just to detail,(showing 36310) and the plastic gear has no ware, and tumblers are in perfect condition as well. With no end play in either front or rear differential out shafts, and +/- .001 of the transfer out put shaft, and now fill mileage may be true. I will post more on our channel as we pull out the gears, ect. Happy Holidays to you, Maria, Subscribers, and customers, Bear
Hi Brian,where is a good place to purchase good quality trans,transfer case rebuild parts! Thanks for the great videos!
Hello, can you delete low gear in the transfer case and only use high gear?
Good instructional, thank you.
thanks for watching.
Excellent videos. Are the Miller oil seal removers still available? I tried eBay with no luck, where would I get one?
They do come up on ebay from time to time. I bought out miller stock about 20 years ago. there was so much interest from the videos that I sold out of them in short time. Keep checking ebay as that is the only place I see them for sale any longer.
metalshaper As seems to be the case so many good companies and good technology and skills and craftsmanship are being lost. Many early technological developments were thrown on the scrap heap before they were ever fully understood. I dabble in wood stove history and technology and have experienced so remarkable results by trial and error. Wood gas production and combustion. I'm not a scientist I just build on what I have observed and apply new state of the art materials such as high temperature ceramic materials such as are designed to shield thermal sensors in extremely high temperature furnaces mostly used in the production of super alloys. Sorry to ramble on. My point is their are so few people like yourself that dig a little deeper into how things are and more importantly were made. We have both the before and after or present technologies to investigate. Are prospective view is here and now in the middle of the industrial revolution which is blurring by at light speed. I don't produce and videos but I am compiling a good list of you tube channels with artisans like yourself. Perhaps we can safe these skills sets for future generations. Keep up the good work. I could go on forever I just love building, rebuilding mechanical things of all sorts. Have a nice day.
Hi Brian,when you take out the shift interlock pin,do you replace those springs or leave them out,with the pin removed you wouldnt need to put them back in would you! Good Video! Thanks!
The shift interlock is between the shift rails. The poppet balls and springs need to be installed to give a proper detent for the shifter so they do need to be installed on each side.
@@metalshaperJeep Ok,that makes perfect sence,they have to go back to retain the proper detent position!Thanks Brian,keep those videos coming!
I'm new to building my M38 and so far all is going well with the front axle rebuild. I have been following several of your TH-cam videos and really appreciate them. My question is regarding the torque for the pinion shaft nut. I have read in several manuals that it should be torqued to 200-220 lb-ft. If I understand your video correctly you are recommending that the final torque be 100 lb-ft. Is that correct or what am I misunderstanding? Your response would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks for your great videos, do you have any on rebuilding the134L engine
No videos on engine rebuilding yet. Hopefully in the near future.
Does the Miller W-251 removal tool work for the pinion seals as well?
yes it works very well on the pinion seals as well. I don't often use it on pinion seals because they are easier to remove by just popping them out with a seal remover. But stubborn ones always get the W-251
With the interlock shift rail pin removed so one can run in 2 wheel low in 1st gear... so I would have my transmission in 1st gear, so does that automatically put it in 2 wheel low with the pin removed? If not can you explain the process of getting into 2 wheel low? I already have the pin out, in process of replacing the seals and gaskets! Thanks John
Shift transfer case into low range as usual and leave front axle out. You will have 2 wheel drive, low range at that point.
Very helpful I thank you so very much !!!!
Rick I’ve gotten into the case to find some water damage to a few teeth, at what point do I replace the gears
pitted teeth on your gears can be a problem, they will be noisy on the road and deteriorate quickly. If you can send a photo I can better help you decide what to do. metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
what do you call that yoke removal bar? the blue one
I have 1942 Ford GPW which jumps out of high gear sometimes when changing down. What is the cause of this please?
How did you pop the tiny seals out? Any tips for removing the bigger seals without the Willys speciality tool you have?
Thanks! This video made disassembly a breeze.
You can remove those shifter seals with a very stout screwdriver or small chisel. Get under them and work them until they pop out. You may have to destroy them and pull them out with a pliers. Tough little seals. I have copied and pasted another guys response to how I remove the yoke seals. Seems like he has a better way. Look up A Dog and ask him how he does it. I always use the remover tool because those seals are tough to get out. You can remove the cap and try to tap them out from the inside if you are doing a complete rebuild. Maybe A Dog has a better way, he says that I spent too much time getting a seal out.
Brian
A Dog
Not sure why one would spend soooo much time removing a seal.... pointless
Brian, you speak often of ordering parts such as those seals and shims in this transfer case. Where do you find the odds and ends of pieces for such older machinery? I have a 1981 Jeep Renegade CJ-7 and plan to rebuild the transfer case and the transmission some time in the future, but I'm afraid finding all of the parts I'll need won't be possible through the local parts stores.....even NAPA. Oh, and my transfer case is supposed to be a Dana 300 and I'm not sure of the transmission. My son-in-law told me that he had some friend of his find a replacement (used) 4 spd right after he bought the Jeep because 3rd gear in the original was gone. I haven't looked for any markings yet, but the trans has an extra low ration 1st and the reverse is over and to the rear. You shift it normally as 2,3, and 4. Mainly, where do you order all of the specialty parts you use in your rebuilds? I really enjoy your videos with your no nonsense way of explaining how every thing is done. You come across clear and very knowledgeable without all the extra crap so many others on TH-cam like to throw in. And, especially thanks for not putting in some crappy background music. Have a Blessed Day.
Hello, I am a novice enjoying your videos. I am rebuilding along with your videos a T90 in my 65 CJ5, for fun. I am also doing the dana 18 transfer case however, I am stuck and cannot remove the 2 shift levers. You said remove the pin. Do I bang it out? If so, from which side? And somehow, the front case slides out about 3 or 4 inches then its stuck... was fun, until now. Lol. Help pls...
Thanks...
make sure the retaining bolt is out if it has one . sometimes the pin pushes out easily other times you will have to take a punch and drive it out. Does not matter which way you drive it out just hit it until it comes out. Next to remove the front cap you must have the transfer case in neutral, that way the shift rails can move past the interlock pin. It takes some patience and make sure you are in neutral or you will never get the front cap off. Hope that answers your questions.
Brian
Wow... thanks for the quick k reply!!
I will keep trying. Now my jeep has not ran, can you also tell me where neutral is? Bit confused. 2 levers... 1st one all the way fwd and 2nd lever in the middle? Is that correct?
Thank you again...
Tony
What are neutral positions?
Question, A friend has my Willy's book, the trans case I have doesn't have the bolt on the side, the one that holds the ball and spring for the shiftier, looks like a crazy molded one from the factory. One shiftier stick is bent, not straight like the one in my 2A's and 53 Pickup. How does the shiftier rods come out and is their a spring and ball in it. Thanks
Send along a photo so I can figure out what you have.
you are a life saver
thanks for watching
Where can we buy that seal remover?
What's the paper seal do in there?
sorry to bother you! i need information? i need two tools?
the one you used to pull seal out? like miller remover w-251 other one that was blue!
you have to search for used tools. These service tools are no longer made so the only place to find them is at flea markets, online, used tool sellers etc....
Good luck.
Brian
Thanks for the tutorial!
Dilemma: I am rebuilding my D18 case and cannot get the output bearing cap off. I have the left lever all the way forward and the other where I can spin the small gear by hand. Cannot slide the cap off and I think the interlock pin has it hung up. I have struggled with this for two solid days now and am at a complete loss.
you need to be in neutral to allow the cap to come off. If the pin is indeed stuck you are going to need to take the whole shaft out with the front cap. Happens from time to time.
En el min 23:55 más o menos, no se ve como se quita esa pieza y es la que cuesta trabajo quitar
You obviously know what your doing, but I don't understand why you didn't pressure wash the transfer case off before disassembling it? Or just scraped and wire brushed it so as not to blow contaminants into or through bad seals and then into possibly good bearings.
All the residue and water will be considered contaminated waste and has to be disposed of as such.
By scraping it off, you have less waste to contend with, and less money to spend to dispose of it.
hi,I have just body Jeep Willys 1958,and I want to put some engine to be 4x4, if someone know guys ,wich engine and some stuff I can use for my willys to make ready for drive?
please
That thing had to use a quart of lube a day. Running around like that! Wow!
How much different is the 20
Two different units with specs and tolerances different.
Oh- the steering wheel puller is coming UPS today. The tub is totally free. Alot of surprise bolts - some took effort but it's a good time anyway.
Sounds good, let me know how the project is going from time to time.
Brian
hi morning
need the name of the tools you used!
Miller seal puller and Kent Moore companion flange holder/remover.
Is there anyone who makes a quality shifter boot for transfers
No, every one out there that I have tried is poorly made and will crack and deteriorate in a short time.
i have only one comment,,,,,,,,,,,why did u not clean that gear case , before taking it apart./??
Durable the old Jeep.
Could of at least cleaned it before dissembling.
bom
Not sure why one would spend soooo much time removing a seal.... pointless
A Dog, it would be great if you could show a video of how you remove that seal, or are you just thinking you have a better way. It is a tough seal to remove so that is why I showed an easy way to remove it. As always I have an open invitation to folks like you to come visit my shop and show me how you would do it. You are welcome to use any tools, jigs, machines, etc... in the shop. Show me a better way if you have one !!!
A Dog do it right.
bom