Thank you so much. I have not been able to get my spyder 110v near factory sharp since i got it. This knife would stick 1/4" into concrete if dropped. I will never buy anything but 110v since using it. A truly super steel.
Man I have been racking my brain learning to sharpen stainless. I've been a die hard 1095 guy for years. This video and your technique with making a bur made all the difference
I keep a super thin ceramic card that’s glued to the back of a 400 grit diamond plate. It rides in my rigid wallet everyday. I can get a burr back on my k390 knives and be slicing miles of cardboard effortlessly within just a few strokes. I know I’m creating a sabre edge and more blunt with each sharpening without using the diamond so about every 4-5th ceramic touch up I cut it back at 17° on my Worksharp precision adjust. Anyway. I was a gunsmith and always have tools nearby. Been hand sharpening razors since I was 16. Love metallurgy and heat treat with a Paragon double barrel furnace. Much like to your channel.
Hey man just sharpened my Para Military 2 in s110 v for the first time, ive been sharpening my knives since i was 9 or 10 but i had only ever sharpened my Mora and my sak's so i was a little bit hesitant about buying the knife because i didnt know what maintenance would be Like. Because of your Video i decided to get it along with the worksharp field sharpener and 1 Micron compound. Worked pretty well after a brief break in on the Diamond plates and i got a real toothy edge, cuts really agressively and shaves with no problem. Your Video took away any doubt in buying the knife or sharpening it and was the final reason for me to pull the Trigger on the purchase. Thanks for the simple explanation, brought me a lot of Joy using it, merry Christmas man.
I just sharpened my used eBay s110v pm2 and it was actually so easy. Never sharpened a knife before too. I just used a $50 diamond stone from amazon and went to work. Got it hair cutting sharp (although I couldn’t split it or whittle it)
Wow-- great presentation -- probably the best I've seen so far on TH-cam re knife sharpening. Thank you for the info. I'm looking to get a PM2 S110V blurple this week to add to my endless collection of EDC folders. This video is very helpful.
You're not gonna regret it, I just got the para 3 blurple s110v. Probably the sharpest spyderco factory edge out of the 4 I have. And it's perfect, whoever did QC the day mine came out needs a raise lol
Thanks very much for the advice about leaving the edge "toothy",, I've been wasting my time so much, trying for a "smoother" apex,,, no idea why.!! Ha ha,, I just love a toothy edge, with plenty of "bite",, ps,, my ukpk in S110v is my most carried knife, as I live in the UK,, thanks again for this brilliant video,,, no idea how I missed it years ago,, lol..
Eraser to clean off the ceramic honing rod is a neat trick. Mine's been dark forever, and normal solvents / soap + water don't really do much for it. A normal eraser actually worked to give it some of it's original abrasiveness back.
try and powder abrasive clenser like comet or ajax. wet the ceramic add some of the powder and scrub with the rough side of a sponge. Repeat a few times if its really dark.
Thanks again for this Bear! Especially the angle advice. I was so worried about angle that it stopped me from learning how to free hand sharpen. I practiced on my beater s110v Manix lw and have moved on to the pm2/Millie. This method works so well using the work sharp field sharpener (used the guides at first but now I don't) . I can cut cardboard all day no problems now. You were right about the aggression, it's nuts! I'm a lover of s110v now because of your advice. I like that in a previous comment/video you stated to get the steel/grit/angle for the right job. I've found my happy steel it seems. Thanks for all your awesome content and enthusiasm!
Dude, thats a badass comment. Thanks Ryndel, keep playing with it, nothing in this video is set in stone. Im glad I was able to open the door for you my friend.
I’m not sure why people freak out about sharpening these steels...they’re not *that* bad to sharpen if you have some basic skill. Reprofiling, grinding and apexing can be a bit of a chore sometimes but standard sharpening? The first time I went to sharpen k390, I really strapped in for a long one....then had a burr developing within roughly 30 seconds....
Wow….learned not to be afraid of these supersteels, done in 5 minutes! I’m newer to knives, figured sharpening costs/technique were prohibitive. “Polished toothy”, everything doesn’t need to be mirror finished☝
Hi I'm Jay and just sub'd because I appreciate your common sense approach to sharpening. Your delivery and terminology just makes the process very simple to follow along. Thanks again.
I've experimented with some really polished edges and found that they have diminishing returns for anything other than shaving really really smoothly. I think I'm going to get off the stones at 1000 grit from now on and go straight to the strop to yield those "polished teeth" which seem to be much more useful for an edc knife.
This is good to know, I just bought a couple diamond stones for my Edge Pro. Everyone always talks about s110v and some of the other higher vanadium steels being hard to sharpen, but I figured there was more to it, because how else did my my PM2 come so damn sharp from the factory, lol
Great vid. Interesting to see how your sharpening technique has evolved over the last couple of years. I'm now finishing with edge trailing strokes only, per you and a few others.
✔️ I'm not even a "knife guy", but I've learned enough about modern high end knife steels that it bothered me sufficiently that I had to switch the video off. It's kinda like watching someone experiment with an engine, where the person either intentionally runs it with no oil until it seizes up, or continuously over-revs it until it spins a bearing and throws a rod. It's like fingernails down a chalkboard x10...
New to learning sharpening on bench instead of hand holding the stone. Its like starting all over again. Man it feels awkward, but i do believe its more precise on getting consistent bevels. Got a long road ahead...
Thanks for sharing. Im geting more and more in to higer end knifes and its fun to watch. I have a forge and made some knifs but only spring and tool Steel knifs. But after geting som s35vn and m390 knifes i can see way people whant to get more hi end knifes. Thanks for sharing.
Totally agree! I hear of people working through multiple grits down to extra fine ceramic. Doesn’t work for me. I go diamond then med or fine ceramic, then 9 micron diamond strop then 3 then 1. Seems to me like a lot of time on the fine ceramics causes micro chipping. I know other people do fine with the ultrafine mirror edge. But I agree with your findings almost exactly. Good job man. Makes me feel like I’m not crazy.
I saw a video where a guy put an angle finder a digital angle finder on spine of the knife. And then he set up a camera to film it as he was sharpening so you can see the angle finder. He had slight fluctuations. That could help somebody. For me I set the knife down not quite flat because I don't want to scratch the blade and then I lift up until it stops. I lock in that angle and only move my torso. This takes practice because a person has got to be paying attention to what they're doing so that they're not wasting their time and continuing bad habits for a year. You got to check the progress on the whole length of the blade. A person has got to be paying attention to what they are doing and the results they are getting on the entire length of the blade. They got to look at the scratches on the bevel with the jeweler's glass. They've got to look at the size of the bevel like is it bigger near the tip if so why. Once a person can hold a consistent angle they should be able to sharpen a dull knife in 60 to 90 seconds I'm talking about shaving sharp I don't care what kind of steel. None of us are trying to cut a bacteria in half or whittle a hair, so once a person can hold a consistent angle they could have one 400 grit diamond Stone maybe a 600 and some old leather belt or a piece of denim glued to a board they are good. They will have the sharpest knife in their whole neighborhood -and no horizontal scratch pattern that just breaks off easily at the Apex; need something more vertical.
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What is the grit on your diamond stone ? Thanks for an awesome video.
@Big Brown Bear would you mind listing the materials used in this video somewhere maybe in the description possibly with some links maybe even? About how much should this cost to someone JUST getting into these "Super Steel's" and higher end steel's and knives. My sharpening gear is VERY low tech. At this point I'd have to buy new equipment or send it in to the company for sharpening.
hello, I have watched this video multiple times now (along with a bunch of your other videos). I cook for a living and have always sharpened my own stuff for at least 15 years now. Just recently, I have started getting into folding knives and different steels and have really fallen back in love with sharpening. To the point where I find myself "playing" around with different edges and steel types to find what suits my needs best. I am in need of some new stones/equipment and am looking for maybe some recommendations on some new sharpening gear. The reason for this, is that I just purchased a manix 2 lw in s110v and have yet to sharpen it. I have a bunch of Damascus kitchen knives among a ton of other miscellaneous kitchen knives that I have never really paid any attention to the steel, just sharpen as needed. The "highest" end steel that I have worked with that I am aware of to this point is spyderco's s30v (native). I have zero issues sharpening it on normal stones (I believe it's a 1000/4000 stone that has significantly become worn down to where it's no longer flat), no stropping then just using until it needs touching up. I use my knives quite a bit and am usually good about touching the edges up and not letting the knife get completely dull. I am very interested in the work sharp system you have in this video, but can I pick one up and have the versatility I am after as far as how many different knives I sharpen? Sorry for the wordy question and thank you ahead of time for any insight.
keep your knife sharp and your stones sharper, maintenance on your stones is your responsibility. normal stones in 1k/4k tend to overpolish s30v and s110v. Reducing performance. Look into some Venev stones.
Looks like a REALLY steep angle, like 25+ degrees a side, is this an optical illusion? My S110V blades hold a great edge around 17*, they keep that edge better than any other steel I own. I keep them polished more shiny than other steels, and they stay sharper for longer.
For my Spyderco manix-2 blurple G-10/ S110V I use my 2" × 6" 300, 600 and 1000 grit DMT diamond plates then I move to ceramic rods to clean it up and apply a keen micro bevel. I get good, long lasting edges but not hair whittling even if I strop afterwards. Any suggestions?
Dump all that stuff, get a metallic bonded stone 40/28 um cBN, cut your bevels and deburr, skip the microbevel and use gunny juice 1um diamond emulsion on cowhide leather to strop.
I just finished an S90V sharpening with no diamonds... just stayed very coarse to avoid putting any small abrasive particles directly up against carbide particles. I didn't see what all the fuss is about. I was able to raise a burr on a 1000 grit waterstone, refine it on medium ceramic, and then remove the burr on strops. The edge doesn't cut free-hanging-hair, but it can make wavy cuts through thin paper all day.
coffeeandlifting congratulations hahaha, nothing is impossible I'm sure if you make a video some one will comment that they can sharpen s125v on a sidewalk curb no problem. Haha do what ever works 100s of ways to do something.
You make the bevels even as you go but for the sake of brevity and simplicity I didn't discuss that detail. I have to keep it simple for beginners, there's lots of details I left out that are found in other videos I made.
I am going to call you Big Brown Burr from now on, the master of getting a burr no matter what carbide wall of defiance he faces. The day of reckoning is coming soon, me sharpening my blue Spyderco Military in S110V I have dreaded for some time.
I have a Spyderco UKPK in S110v , I dont own any diamond sharpening equipment. Besides the 300ish-grit diamond stone, what else should i invest in to get my S110v sharp.
I have a military with s110v and a sharpmaker with diamond and ultra fine stones in addition to the normal stones it comes with. Are there any tips or tricks to using this system with s110v? Thanks for your help and advice!
Hey BBB! i enjoy so much watching your videos! please tell me, i love using xhp steel with a super toothy edge, lansky coarse dyamond with only leather stropping , stays very shaving , and cut very aggressive cardboard ! I love it! but I wanted a better steel for this super toothy finish, will the s110v is the best for me ? or maxamet be better? thanks !!!
Nice, that knife is a beast to sharpen without diamond stones... I tried, lol. This makes sense, I’ve never seemed to get it stupid sharp with smaller grit, it likes to be toothy for sure.
I don't have any high end steel yet in my knives but I am just learning to sharpen free hand.i was going to buy a dmt coarse stone do you agree it's a good long term buy.atb paddy
Hey Sean (Shawn, Spelling? Lol), question for ya bro. At the 3:50 mark you demonstrated “weakening” the burr before moving to the ceramic rod. My question is, was it necessary to use a reverse (stropping) stroke on the stone, or could you simply have used an edge-leading stroke and alternate sides every stroke (same as what you did once you started using the ceramic)? I’ve just always found it awkward to use edge trailing motions on stones. Also, what are your opinions on using circular motions to sharpen on a stone instead of the back and forth scrubbing motions you show here? I really became a fan of circular motions when sharpening because I found that using a scrubbing motion becomes hard when your sharpening something very large (like a sword or machete) or something very heavy (like a hatchet or axe), where in these cases it’s easier to take the stone to the tool, than it is to take the tool to the stone as you would when you use the scrubbing method of sharpening. Furthermore, you can’t use both hands to use a scrubbing method when you use certain sharpening media like rods (obviously because one hand has to hold the rod), or if you use a stone but don’t have a secure platform handy to hold the stone stationary. I’ve found that all of those issues are alleviated when you use circular motions because you only need one hand on the blade, and that frees up your other hand to hold the stone so you don’t need to worry about stable platforms and/or stone holders, and if the tool being sharpening is large or awkward, you can take the stone to the tool and the motion doesn’t change. Instead of moving the tool in circles, you move the stone in circles; it’s certainly a lot less awkward than moving the stone in a scrubbing motion. You can also use circular motions on rods without issue. And you can sharpen any size of tool with any size of sharpening stone (ie: I can sharpen a 26” machete with a 3” pocket stone) because you simply move the stone in circular motions along the entire length of the edge. Anyways, just curious to hear your thoughts. Thanks bro, and great vids man! Btw, what state are you from?
Eh, I wouldn't over obsess about that detail cause at the end of the day its whatever you can execute and get results from. there are a few differences and results you will get from each technique its irrelevant if it cant be executed
Following your short method I used a DMT dia sharp course (probably close the plate you're using) and then the Spyderco Fine benchstone and then strop. I am apexing both sides on both stones, however, i'm not getting this same level of sharpness. Where would I be going wrong?
Quick question, can Shapton glass stones cut the vanadium carbides effectively? They should be harder than the ceramic stones. Is diamond really the only way to properly sharpen high vanadium steels without tearing the carbides out?
I'm thinking about getting this exact knife, and was wondering about what sharpening system to buy along with it. I've narrowed it down to the Lansky with the diamond hones and it's stropping hone or the Work Sharp with the Upgrade Kit. Even if I have no sharpening experience should I go with the Work Sharp? I feel like it's better in every way except for it being harder to use, but I think I could learn it well enough to sharpen something like S110V.
Zac with little to no sharpening experience i would strongly recommend to avoid s110v. You'll have way better luck with steels like M4 or k390 in terms of sharpening, while still being high edge retention super steels.
Just bought a maxamet pm2 and s110v pm3 and I'm about to send the maxamet back when it gets here. I'm scared of it breaking... Should I just hang onto it? What angles do you use and what grit?
@@FearNoSteel yeah, just watched a video you posted 2 years ago when you cut PVC and shaved into aluminum. Thanks bud. If I fuck it up and can't figure out how to sharpen it, how can I get ahold of you? Anything you suggest I get to help with corrosion? Thnx for the reply btw.
Hey Sean/Shaun/Shawn, What diamond spray do you use? I know there are a lot of diamond sprays/emsulsions/whatever the hell you want to call it and I was wondering what you would suggest.
Wow, I've certainly been overthinking it this whole time. Thanks for a great video. I spent a couple hours trying to sharpen mine on a lansky and the edge was still garbage afterwards. Will give this simpler method a try
Hey Shaun thanks for the great video. Is there anyway i can dm you? Id need to get some advice on stones and diamonds for steels i have s110 being one. Keep up the good work and ill hope to talk with ya
Hey Bear. You are buff and hairy like a bear. Me too. :) NOICE video. Sorry, but I'm new here. Mind telling me which stones you sharpen with and what you think of those ridiculously high end and high priced Japanese water stones? Shapton, Chosera, etc. Thanks!
That’s the way I do it. Except I never use my other hand. Been doing it 30 years the same way. I even have the same sharpener. Well I have multiple that’s just one of them.
Every time I see you dull a knife I think a piece of my soul dies. Great vid nonetheless mate. I can't really tell from the vid, but do you angle up as you reach the tip (when forming the burr)?
I know allot of ppl that would love to argue with you that you don't need to form a burr. I don't fully understand it yet, I get there argument against forming a burr even if I don't fully believe the drawbacks of burr formation. But at the same time I think you'd have to form a minor burr no matter what.
The reasons that ive seen for people saying that you dont need to form a burr when sharpening is for maximization of the blades lifespan before it needs to be replaced. If you always sharpen until you just barely form the apex on both sides you can get a very sharp edge without the loss of steel from forming a burr, which is caused by you getting to the apex and then grinding more steel off the edge which you can feel as it curls over. However its difficult to sharpen this way and like you suspect you would still very likely be forming a very tiny burr as you hit the edge. The main goal is to apex the edge on both sides otherwise your knife is still dull. Over a long time there are going to be drawbacks to forming a burr especially a large one, but that will take a very long time unless you are sharpening until you have a large burr every time. So if your just starting out dont worry about it.
Anyone struggling with s110v i would say light touch i repeat light touch. I can get an perfect edge with DMT fine and Spyderco ultrafine but i can't atm explain why light touch is so important in bringing up that razor edge on this steel.
Big Brown Bear lol i didn't remember posting that until now, one of my sharpening discoveries after too much beer, but damn it worked I've sharpened s110v almost too much to get it the way i want.
Be smart - buy a GOOD jig. People talk about muscle memory often. However, that only applies if you sharpen often and use the EXACT same angle. Even then, tipping even one degree adds time to your sharpening efforts [to get back where you were] and requires removing more metal off your valued knife. Meanwhile, many of us are dealing with about twenty different angles. Good luck with muscle memorying that. For example: - Kitchen knives have at several different angles (Japanese, vs European, fillet knives, skinning knives, paring knives, etc.). On some, there is only one angle on one side, rather than "inclusive" angles. - Carving knives have a couple different angles. - Wood chisels have four or so angles. - Lathe knives have compound angles, angles on curved steel and so on. Angles for bowls are different than for spindles. Then there is the carbide thing. - Carving chisels are like lathe knives, but with just one angle. - Meat cleavers are dull compared to a Japanese knife. - Pocket knives have different flavors of angles too. - Lawn mowers are way dull compared to the above, to survived the abuse they take, and rely on high speed to get the job done. - A straight razer angle wouldn't last long on a knife dedicated to cardboard. - Exacto blades can last decades, after the stock tip breaks and you put a new one on, Then there is that sharp cutting angle. - I forget what my draw knives like. - Wood planes are a different animal . - Axes are interesting. - Scissors are interesting too. - Pruners, I have to look that angle up each time. - Garden hoes, when weeding, play well with a file and a guess though. - A scythe is pretty fussy about its angle and may even involve a hammer and peeing, if you want efficiency. In the end, sharp knives spoil you. As a good chef if he/she would use dull knives, if he/she had choices.
Do you test or check for slicing aggression or slicing sharpness? If so, can I ask how? I am wanting to get a polished edge that push cuts well and will still slice. Thank you!
Yehoshua D. Stone I dunno if I'm too late but 1000 grit is a good compromise. You can check for push cutting capability with news paper, if you can hold a piece of news paper between the thumb and index finger of your non dominant hand and push cut straight down (90 degrees) you have a very capable edge. The thinner the paper is, the harder it is to do because it will be more likely to fold the paper than cut. Slicing however can be performed on the same testing medium and you can test slicing performance by sight and feel when cutting. A good slicer will not cause the paper to rip or "tear out" and a toothier, lower grit, edge is more suited for slicing because it takes advantage of the deep scratches left by the abrasives that form small micro serrations on the very cutting edge. Lower grit edges tend to have a more satisfying feeling when dragging the edge through a piece of paper, a higher grit polish will still do the same thing but you'll likely notice a difference when tackling tough materials like cardboard. And you'll probably be able to hear a difference between a polished and toothy edge when cutting paper, a toothy edge will sound louder and more crisp whereas a more polished edge will sound smoother.
I had the exact same PM2 in S110V and I could never get it razor sharp like the rest of my knives. it was semi sharp at best.....and then it would lose it's edge in no time. no matter what I tried it was never a super sharp knife. I could never understand what people were raving about this steel so much. I thought it was complete garbage and got rid of it as soon as I could now I just stick to S30V and D2.....I don't even bother with any of the super steels. I'm a user, not a collector. I'm in Canada so knives are really expensive. whatever the price is in the US.......double or triple the price to get what we have to pay after the exchange rate, shipping, and all the taxes
Just a tip, make a friend in america & have him buy it & ship it to you as a gift (have him say it's cosmetics/lotion or something), i collect fragrances/cologne and swap/sell to people in canada all the time, i've never had any issues with customs opening a package to check, just a thought.
I always get a tiny tiny tiny burr you can only see with a flashlight and can't even feel by the tip that I have to strop and strop and strop and by the time im.done if I can even make it disappear completely I feel like I lose that nice bite. Definietly a bitch to sharpen! Damn burrs
Thank you so much. I have not been able to get my spyder 110v near factory sharp since i got it. This knife would stick 1/4" into concrete if dropped. I will never buy anything but 110v since using it. A truly super steel.
Man I have been racking my brain learning to sharpen stainless. I've been a die hard 1095 guy for years. This video and your technique with making a bur made all the difference
I keep a super thin ceramic card that’s glued to the back of a 400 grit diamond plate. It rides in my rigid wallet everyday. I can get a burr back on my k390 knives and be slicing miles of cardboard effortlessly within just a few strokes. I know I’m creating a sabre edge and more blunt with each sharpening without using the diamond so about every 4-5th ceramic touch up I cut it back at 17° on my Worksharp precision adjust. Anyway. I was a gunsmith and always have tools nearby. Been hand sharpening razors since I was 16. Love metallurgy and heat treat with a Paragon double barrel furnace. Much like to your channel.
Hey man just sharpened my Para Military 2 in s110 v for the first time, ive been sharpening my knives since i was 9 or 10 but i had only ever sharpened my Mora and my sak's so i was a little bit hesitant about buying the knife because i didnt know what maintenance would be Like. Because of your Video i decided to get it along with the worksharp field sharpener and 1 Micron compound. Worked pretty well after a brief break in on the Diamond plates and i got a real toothy edge, cuts really agressively and shaves with no problem. Your Video took away any doubt in buying the knife or sharpening it and was the final reason for me to pull the Trigger on the purchase. Thanks for the simple explanation, brought me a lot of Joy using it, merry Christmas man.
That is BAD ASS
I just sharpened my used eBay s110v pm2 and it was actually so easy. Never sharpened a knife before too. I just used a $50 diamond stone from amazon and went to work. Got it hair cutting sharp (although I couldn’t split it or whittle it)
Man you really have a skill there.
Wow-- great presentation -- probably the best I've seen so far on TH-cam re knife sharpening. Thank you for the info. I'm looking to get a PM2 S110V blurple this week to add to my endless collection of EDC folders. This video is very helpful.
You're not gonna regret it, I just got the para 3 blurple s110v. Probably the sharpest spyderco factory edge out of the 4 I have. And it's perfect, whoever did QC the day mine came out needs a raise lol
Thanks very much for the advice about leaving the edge "toothy",, I've been wasting my time so much, trying for a "smoother" apex,,, no idea why.!!
Ha ha,, I just love a toothy edge, with plenty of "bite",,
ps,, my ukpk in S110v is my most carried knife, as I live in the UK,, thanks again for this brilliant video,,, no idea how I missed it years ago,, lol..
Eraser to clean off the ceramic honing rod is a neat trick. Mine's been dark forever, and normal solvents / soap + water don't really do much for it. A normal eraser actually worked to give it some of it's original abrasiveness back.
try and powder abrasive clenser like comet or ajax. wet the ceramic add some of the powder and scrub with the rough side of a sponge. Repeat a few times if its really dark.
Try Bar Keepers Friend or even toothpaste in a pinch will work
Have you tried degreaser? It it's steel, not grease but por some reason it works with my ceramic rods.
Thanks again for this Bear! Especially the angle advice. I was so worried about angle that it stopped me from learning how to free hand sharpen.
I practiced on my beater s110v Manix lw and have moved on to the pm2/Millie. This method works so well using the work sharp field sharpener (used the guides at first but now I don't) . I can cut cardboard all day no problems now.
You were right about the aggression, it's nuts! I'm a lover of s110v now because of your advice. I like that in a previous comment/video you stated to get the steel/grit/angle for the right job. I've found my happy steel it seems.
Thanks for all your awesome content and enthusiasm!
Dude, thats a badass comment. Thanks Ryndel, keep playing with it, nothing in this video is set in stone. Im glad I was able to open the door for you my friend.
I’m not sure why people freak out about sharpening these steels...they’re not *that* bad to sharpen if you have some basic skill. Reprofiling, grinding and apexing can be a bit of a chore sometimes but standard sharpening? The first time I went to sharpen k390, I really strapped in for a long one....then had a burr developing within roughly 30 seconds....
There are no difficult steels to sharpen. Some just take longer.
Wow….learned not to be afraid of these supersteels, done in 5 minutes! I’m newer to knives, figured sharpening costs/technique were prohibitive. “Polished toothy”, everything doesn’t need to be mirror finished☝
Hi I'm Jay and just sub'd because I appreciate your common sense approach to sharpening. Your delivery and terminology just makes the process very simple to follow along. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video. I have just ordered a Para 3 with S110V and i'm definitely wanting to make sure I care for and maintain in properly.
I also use that field sharpener rod to de-burr. Lovely little bit of kit
That was fast to get a burr. I sharpened my s110v with a king 1000 with no complaints. Took a while but enjoyed every minute.
Sadistically Sharp
hahaha no wonder it was fast, King stones a very slow yikes, hahaha.
but Life's about the journey bruddah 👊
Thanks to you i can finally sharpen my PM2 S110V. I just use diamond sharpener like you said. My is DC4 Fallkniven. Thanks again,
NICE
Subbed because of the confidence you had sharpening that beautiful Para2 at speed - dude I was nervous but you are obviously experienced! ATB
Thanks BBB. S110V makes me think of super steel Steve.
I've experimented with some really polished edges and found that they have diminishing returns for anything other than shaving really really smoothly. I think I'm going to get off the stones at 1000 grit from now on and go straight to the strop to yield those "polished teeth" which seem to be much more useful for an edc knife.
coffeeandlifting I agree. It's all about the balance of polish and tooth
Damn. You’re amazing dude. I absolutely love your style. Very smart and to the point. You know what you’re talking about
Thanks, I just got the para 3 in s110v, gonna save this video for later
This is good to know, I just bought a couple diamond stones for my Edge Pro. Everyone always talks about s110v and some of the other higher vanadium steels being hard to sharpen, but I figured there was more to it, because how else did my my PM2 come so damn sharp from the factory, lol
Great vid. Interesting to see how your sharpening technique has evolved over the last couple of years. I'm now finishing with edge trailing strokes only, per you and a few others.
When you dulled the edge like that i cried
I definitely flinched seeing that too lmaoooo
still necessary to remove stressed edge
✔️ I'm not even a "knife guy", but I've learned enough about modern high end knife steels that it bothered me sufficiently that I had to switch the video off. It's kinda like watching someone experiment with an engine, where the person either intentionally runs it with no oil until it seizes up, or continuously over-revs it until it spins a bearing and throws a rod. It's like fingernails down a chalkboard x10...
Great video. Love the lesson. Just now getting into freehand.
New to learning sharpening on bench instead of hand holding the stone. Its like starting all over again. Man it feels awkward, but i do believe its more precise on getting consistent bevels. Got a long road ahead...
Thanks for sharing. Im geting more and more in to higer end knifes and its fun to watch.
I have a forge and made some knifs but only spring and tool Steel knifs. But after geting som s35vn and m390 knifes i can see way people whant to get more hi end knifes. Thanks for sharing.
Totally agree! I hear of people working through multiple grits down to extra fine ceramic. Doesn’t work for me. I go diamond then med or fine ceramic, then 9 micron diamond strop then 3 then 1. Seems to me like a lot of time on the fine ceramics causes micro chipping. I know other people do fine with the ultrafine mirror edge. But I agree with your findings almost exactly. Good job man. Makes me feel like I’m not crazy.
I have the exact same Spyderco knife. I need to sharpen it badly. But this seems like a multi-stage steel it's so tough.
I saw a video where a guy put an angle finder a digital angle finder on spine of the knife. And then he set up a camera to film it as he was sharpening so you can see the angle finder. He had slight fluctuations. That could help somebody. For me I set the knife down not quite flat because I don't want to scratch the blade and then I lift up until it stops. I lock in that angle and only move my torso. This takes practice because a person has got to be paying attention to what they're doing so that they're not wasting their time and continuing bad habits for a year. You got to check the progress on the whole length of the blade. A person has got to be paying attention to what they are doing and the results they are getting on the entire length of the blade. They got to look at the scratches on the bevel with the jeweler's glass. They've got to look at the size of the bevel like is it bigger near the tip if so why. Once a person can hold a consistent angle they should be able to sharpen a dull knife in 60 to 90 seconds I'm talking about shaving sharp I don't care what kind of steel. None of us are trying to cut a bacteria in half or whittle a hair, so once a person can hold a consistent angle they could have one 400 grit diamond Stone maybe a 600 and some old leather belt or a piece of denim glued to a board they are good. They will have the sharpest knife in their whole neighborhood -and no horizontal scratch pattern that just breaks off easily at the Apex; need something more vertical.
What is the grit on your diamond stone ? Thanks for an awesome video.
@Big Brown Bear would you mind listing the materials used in this video somewhere maybe in the description possibly with some links maybe even? About how much should this cost to someone JUST getting into these "Super Steel's" and higher end steel's and knives. My sharpening gear is VERY low tech. At this point I'd have to buy new equipment or send it in to the company for sharpening.
Thanks, I've got some S110V inbound and I was a little nervous of sharpening it. Cheers :-)
hello, I have watched this video multiple times now (along with a bunch of your other videos). I cook for a living and have always sharpened my own stuff for at least 15 years now. Just recently, I have started getting into folding knives and different steels and have really fallen back in love with sharpening. To the point where I find myself "playing" around with different edges and steel types to find what suits my needs best. I am in need of some new stones/equipment and am looking for maybe some recommendations on some new sharpening gear. The reason for this, is that I just purchased a manix 2 lw in s110v and have yet to sharpen it. I have a bunch of Damascus kitchen knives among a ton of other miscellaneous kitchen knives that I have never really paid any attention to the steel, just sharpen as needed. The "highest" end steel that I have worked with that I am aware of to this point is spyderco's s30v (native). I have zero issues sharpening it on normal stones (I believe it's a 1000/4000 stone that has significantly become worn down to where it's no longer flat), no stropping then just using until it needs touching up. I use my knives quite a bit and am usually good about touching the edges up and not letting the knife get completely dull. I am very interested in the work sharp system you have in this video, but can I pick one up and have the versatility I am after as far as how many different knives I sharpen? Sorry for the wordy question and thank you ahead of time for any insight.
keep your knife sharp and your stones sharper, maintenance on your stones is your responsibility. normal stones in 1k/4k tend to overpolish s30v and s110v. Reducing performance. Look into some Venev stones.
That's an awesome working edge. I got to have an S110V PM2.
Can recommend
Who makes the 300 grit diamond stone in this video and where can I get one? Thanks for your great videos.
Thanks, man. You're a good instructor.
How's that video of the diamond waterstones coming along? Really am eager to see them in use and reviewed. Thanks.
Looks like a REALLY steep angle, like 25+ degrees a side, is this an optical illusion? My S110V blades hold a great edge around 17*, they keep that edge better than any other steel I own. I keep them polished more shiny than other steels, and they stay sharper for longer.
For my Spyderco manix-2 blurple G-10/ S110V I use my 2" × 6" 300, 600 and 1000 grit DMT diamond plates then I move to ceramic rods to clean it up and apply a keen micro bevel.
I get good, long lasting edges but not hair whittling even if I strop afterwards. Any suggestions?
Dump all that stuff, get a metallic bonded stone 40/28 um cBN, cut your bevels and deburr, skip the microbevel and use gunny juice 1um diamond emulsion on cowhide leather to strop.
@@FearNoSteel - got it. So thin the bur on the stones at the original angle and remove it on strops?
I'll give it a shot. Thanks.
I just finished an S90V sharpening with no diamonds... just stayed very coarse to avoid putting any small abrasive particles directly up against carbide particles. I didn't see what all the fuss is about. I was able to raise a burr on a 1000 grit waterstone, refine it on medium ceramic, and then remove the burr on strops. The edge doesn't cut free-hanging-hair, but it can make wavy cuts through thin paper all day.
coffeeandlifting congratulations hahaha, nothing is impossible I'm sure if you make a video some one will comment that they can sharpen s125v on a sidewalk curb no problem. Haha do what ever works 100s of ways to do something.
Thanks BBG as usual very well done .
Your videos are the best brother! Thanks
Cool, Thanks for that brotha
Great video answered a lot of questions I had! Thank you 😊 you earned a sub!
Very informative video, thank you! ..what do you think of the Spyderco Tri Sharpener ?
I appreciate this is an old video but will you not end up with uneven bevels if you sharpen one side more than the other?
You make the bevels even as you go but for the sake of brevity and simplicity I didn't discuss that detail. I have to keep it simple for beginners, there's lots of details I left out that are found in other videos I made.
I am going to call you Big Brown Burr from now on, the master of getting a burr no matter what carbide wall of defiance he faces. The day of reckoning is coming soon, me sharpening my blue Spyderco Military in S110V I have dreaded for some time.
I have a Spyderco UKPK in S110v , I dont own any diamond sharpening equipment. Besides the 300ish-grit diamond stone, what else should i invest in to get my S110v sharp.
Great video. Much appreciated. Is it necessary to dull the blade first on the sharpening stone in order to get a burr?
Luci Kennedy-Wong no, not necessarily to get a burr
I have a military with s110v and a sharpmaker with diamond and ultra fine stones in addition to the normal stones it comes with. Are there any tips or tricks to using this system with s110v? Thanks for your help and advice!
Hey BBB! i enjoy so much watching your videos! please tell me, i love using xhp steel with a super toothy edge, lansky coarse dyamond with only leather stropping , stays very shaving , and cut very aggressive cardboard ! I love it! but I wanted a better steel for this super toothy finish, will the s110v is the best for me ? or maxamet be better? thanks !!!
Nice, that knife is a beast to sharpen without diamond stones... I tried, lol. This makes sense, I’ve never seemed to get it stupid sharp with smaller grit, it likes to be toothy for sure.
I don't have any high end steel yet in my knives but I am just learning to sharpen free hand.i was going to buy a dmt coarse stone do you agree it's a good long term buy.atb paddy
Yea man, I really like the worksharp GSS though too, good value.
I already have the spyderco sharpmaker so thought the fine and ceramic stones on it would do for now and I already love stroping.thanks pal
sounds good
John Tedichwon thanks john I will take your advice on that .much appreciated mate.atb paddy.
Hey Sean (Shawn, Spelling? Lol), question for ya bro.
At the 3:50 mark you demonstrated “weakening” the burr before moving to the ceramic rod. My question is, was it necessary to use a reverse (stropping) stroke on the stone, or could you simply have used an edge-leading stroke and alternate sides every stroke (same as what you did once you started using the ceramic)? I’ve just always found it awkward to use edge trailing motions on stones.
Also, what are your opinions on using circular motions to sharpen on a stone instead of the back and forth scrubbing motions you show here? I really became a fan of circular motions when sharpening because I found that using a scrubbing motion becomes hard when your sharpening something very large (like a sword or machete) or something very heavy (like a hatchet or axe), where in these cases it’s easier to take the stone to the tool, than it is to take the tool to the stone as you would when you use the scrubbing method of sharpening. Furthermore, you can’t use both hands to use a scrubbing method when you use certain sharpening media like rods (obviously because one hand has to hold the rod), or if you use a stone but don’t have a secure platform handy to hold the stone stationary.
I’ve found that all of those issues are alleviated when you use circular motions because you only need one hand on the blade, and that frees up your other hand to hold the stone so you don’t need to worry about stable platforms and/or stone holders, and if the tool being sharpening is large or awkward, you can take the stone to the tool and the motion doesn’t change. Instead of moving the tool in circles, you move the stone in circles; it’s certainly a lot less awkward than moving the stone in a scrubbing motion. You can also use circular motions on rods without issue. And you can sharpen any size of tool with any size of sharpening stone (ie: I can sharpen a 26” machete with a 3” pocket stone) because you simply move the stone in circular motions along the entire length of the edge.
Anyways, just curious to hear your thoughts. Thanks bro, and great vids man! Btw, what state are you from?
Eh, I wouldn't over obsess about that detail cause at the end of the day its whatever you can execute and get results from. there are a few differences and results you will get from each technique its irrelevant if it cant be executed
Do your beveals match when your sharpen like this? Mine don't seam to match when I sharpen like this. Thanks
Following your short method I used a DMT dia sharp course (probably close the plate you're using) and then the Spyderco Fine benchstone and then strop. I am apexing both sides on both stones, however, i'm not getting this same level of sharpness. Where would I be going wrong?
Skip the spyderco fine and repeat, strop with diamond compound not green compound.
Quick question, can Shapton glass stones cut the vanadium carbides effectively? They should be harder than the ceramic stones.
Is diamond really the only way to properly sharpen high vanadium steels without tearing the carbides out?
Beast of the Far East Shapton glass is ceramic.
Oh damn...didn't know that, I thought they were legit made out of glass lol
I'm thinking about getting this exact knife, and was wondering about what sharpening system to buy along with it. I've narrowed it down to the Lansky with the diamond hones and it's stropping hone or the Work Sharp with the Upgrade Kit. Even if I have no sharpening experience should I go with the Work Sharp? I feel like it's better in every way except for it being harder to use, but I think I could learn it well enough to sharpen something like S110V.
Zac nah get the work sharp, it has training wheels for you, buy the freehand system in this video
Zac with little to no sharpening experience i would strongly recommend to avoid s110v. You'll have way better luck with steels like M4 or k390 in terms of sharpening, while still being high edge retention super steels.
What stones are there/what would you reccomend? I'm using DMT with the spots but I am having some issues
Just bought a maxamet pm2 and s110v pm3 and I'm about to send the maxamet back when it gets here. I'm scared of it breaking... Should I just hang onto it? What angles do you use and what grit?
dont be scared, just use it.
@@FearNoSteel yeah, just watched a video you posted 2 years ago when you cut PVC and shaved into aluminum. Thanks bud. If I fuck it up and can't figure out how to sharpen it, how can I get ahold of you? Anything you suggest I get to help with corrosion? Thnx for the reply btw.
Good video. Just don't understand how you keep a consistent angle the way your doing this.
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening practice
Is there any other compound I can use besides diamond spray to strop my S 90 V?
Hey Sean/Shaun/Shawn, What diamond spray do you use? I know there are a lot of diamond sprays/emsulsions/whatever the hell you want to call it and I was wondering what you would suggest.
I just like the 1um spray
I was thinking company wise. Ken shwartz, hand american, jende, etc...
@@TorlingJarl followed this Video with the Same knife and used jende poly Emulsion 1 micron, worked out fine
Wow, I've certainly been overthinking it this whole time. Thanks for a great video. I spent a couple hours trying to sharpen mine on a lansky and the edge was still garbage afterwards. Will give this simpler method a try
Hey Shaun thanks for the great video. Is there anyway i can dm you? Id need to get some advice on stones and diamonds for steels i have s110 being one. Keep up the good work and ill hope to talk with ya
They all work, technique is king.
Excuse me, but where did you get that strop compound? Thanks for the video
What is the system you are using here?
How do you not round the tip?
You sharpen for customers?
Martin Bravo no, just no time for it.
Great video... Thank You for the lesson 👍
Alive & Kicking Thanks bruddah!
I have a set of 3 DMT diamond whetstones. Could I expect the same results with those instead of the Worksharp?
sure, its all about technique and exucution
That's talent. Thanks for the video.
Tanks bruddah! :)
Watching a true professional in their craft is always interesting
Nice easy to follow. Thank you.
I use a ken onion worksharp on super steels.
Hey Bear. You are buff and hairy like a bear. Me too. :)
NOICE video.
Sorry, but I'm new here. Mind telling me which stones you sharpen with and what you think of those ridiculously high end and high priced Japanese water stones?
Shapton, Chosera, etc.
Thanks!
Do you have the link to this pad ?
I basically do the exact same thing but I use an edge pro knock off with Shapton stones 😆
That’s the way I do it. Except I never use my other hand. Been doing it 30 years the same way. I even have the same sharpener. Well I have multiple that’s just one of them.
What diamond compound were you using?
Every time I see you dull a knife I think a piece of my soul dies. Great vid nonetheless mate. I can't really tell from the vid, but do you angle up as you reach the tip (when forming the burr)?
it's part of the sacrifice I make to share with you. hahaha, and yes, I left the handle to reach the tip, I just hold the same angle.
lift*
Good sharpening information
Nice work!
Does cbn work pretty good too?
Yes 5000 knoop hardness, still harder then the carbides
Thank you for this
I know allot of ppl that would love to argue with you that you don't need to form a burr. I don't fully understand it yet, I get there argument against forming a burr even if I don't fully believe the drawbacks of burr formation. But at the same time I think you'd have to form a minor burr no matter what.
The reasons that ive seen for people saying that you dont need to form a burr when sharpening is for maximization of the blades lifespan before it needs to be replaced. If you always sharpen until you just barely form the apex on both sides you can get a very sharp edge without the loss of steel from forming a burr, which is caused by you getting to the apex and then grinding more steel off the edge which you can feel as it curls over.
However its difficult to sharpen this way and like you suspect you would still very likely be forming a very tiny burr as you hit the edge.
The main goal is to apex the edge on both sides otherwise your knife is still dull.
Over a long time there are going to be drawbacks to forming a burr especially a large one, but that will take a very long time unless you are sharpening until you have a large burr every time. So if your just starting out dont worry about it.
Trying to sharpen that exact same blade.. what a son of an onion it is!!
I just cant get it done. I get it work sharp but just cant get any sharper. This is the only steel i cant get past
Anyone struggling with s110v i would say light touch i repeat light touch. I can get an perfect edge with DMT fine and Spyderco ultrafine but i can't atm explain why light touch is so important in bringing up that razor edge on this steel.
Oozy9Millimeetah it's so you don't crush the Apex underneath the burr. Light Contact also removes burr
Big Brown Bear lol i didn't remember posting that until now, one of my sharpening discoveries after too much beer, but damn it worked I've sharpened s110v almost too much to get it the way i want.
This is the way.
u got skills bro
Dubglock23 haha I'm alright at it. I've seen better sharpeners they just don't care to share on TH-cam.
Sharpening material available. User unable...
just sharpie the side of the blade to see what your hitting on the stone and practice making a crisp bevel from shoulder to apex
Be smart - buy a GOOD jig.
People talk about muscle memory often. However, that only applies if you sharpen often and use the EXACT same angle. Even then, tipping even one degree adds time to your sharpening efforts [to get back where you were] and requires removing more metal off your valued knife.
Meanwhile, many of us are dealing with about twenty different angles. Good luck with muscle memorying that. For example:
- Kitchen knives have at several different angles (Japanese, vs European, fillet knives, skinning knives, paring knives, etc.). On some, there is only one angle on one side, rather than "inclusive" angles.
- Carving knives have a couple different angles.
- Wood chisels have four or so angles.
- Lathe knives have compound angles, angles on curved steel and so on. Angles for bowls are different than for spindles. Then there is the carbide thing.
- Carving chisels are like lathe knives, but with just one angle.
- Meat cleavers are dull compared to a Japanese knife.
- Pocket knives have different flavors of angles too.
- Lawn mowers are way dull compared to the above, to survived the abuse they take, and rely on high speed to get the job done.
- A straight razer angle wouldn't last long on a knife dedicated to cardboard.
- Exacto blades can last decades, after the stock tip breaks and you put a new one on, Then there is that sharp cutting angle.
- I forget what my draw knives like.
- Wood planes are a different animal .
- Axes are interesting.
- Scissors are interesting too.
- Pruners, I have to look that angle up each time.
- Garden hoes, when weeding, play well with a file and a guess though.
- A scythe is pretty fussy about its angle and may even involve a hammer and peeing, if you want efficiency.
In the end, sharp knives spoil you. As a good chef if he/she would use dull knives, if he/she had choices.
Nope
Do you test or check for slicing aggression or slicing sharpness? If so, can I ask how? I am wanting to get a polished edge that push cuts well and will still slice. Thank you!
Yehoshua D. Stone I dunno if I'm too late but 1000 grit is a good compromise. You can check for push cutting capability with news paper, if you can hold a piece of news paper between the thumb and index finger of your non dominant hand and push cut straight down (90 degrees) you have a very capable edge. The thinner the paper is, the harder it is to do because it will be more likely to fold the paper than cut. Slicing however can be performed on the same testing medium and you can test slicing performance by sight and feel when cutting. A good slicer will not cause the paper to rip or "tear out" and a toothier, lower grit, edge is more suited for slicing because it takes advantage of the deep scratches left by the abrasives that form small micro serrations on the very cutting edge. Lower grit edges tend to have a more satisfying feeling when dragging the edge through a piece of paper, a higher grit polish will still do the same thing but you'll likely notice a difference when tackling tough materials like cardboard. And you'll probably be able to hear a difference between a polished and toothy edge when cutting paper, a toothy edge will sound louder and more crisp whereas a more polished edge will sound smoother.
I had the exact same PM2 in S110V and I could never get it razor sharp like the rest of my knives. it was semi sharp at best.....and then it would lose it's edge in no time.
no matter what I tried it was never a super sharp knife. I could never understand what people were raving about this steel so much. I thought it was complete garbage and got rid of it as soon as I could
now I just stick to S30V and D2.....I don't even bother with any of the super steels. I'm a user, not a collector. I'm in Canada so knives are really expensive. whatever the price is in the US.......double or triple the price to get what we have to pay after the exchange rate, shipping, and all the taxes
Just a tip, make a friend in america & have him buy it & ship it to you as a gift (have him say it's cosmetics/lotion or something), i collect fragrances/cologne and swap/sell to people in canada all the time, i've never had any issues with customs opening a package to check, just a thought.
The burr happens faster on the second side because your grinding the bevels very uneven.
Nah Fam, you'll notice it on a fixed system as well, you can confirm with a Laser Goniometer.
@@FearNoSteel my point is the apex will gradually favor one side
@@FearNoSteel If you continue to sharpen the exact same way eventually you will end up with a chisel grind with a micro bevel.
Maybe for you. Thanks for sharing
@@FearNoSteel I don’t understand the disagreement here. If you take more metal off one side the apex can’t be centered. I’m not stating an opinion.
This is about roughly... 17” I am holding
Use a KME or wicked edge sharpening system problem solved
Thanks man-
I always get a tiny tiny tiny burr you can only see with a flashlight and can't even feel by the tip that I have to strop and strop and strop and by the time im.done if I can even make it disappear completely I feel like I lose that nice bite. Definietly a bitch to sharpen! Damn burrs