I’m not sure what the heck you’re talking about but that is an insane skill you have. It’s an art and my OCD would never allow me to even try this. So cool
@michaelchristy4982 I've been getting good results just a week after starting this stone in hand sharpening. Bought a few opinels to practice on as per your journey with this. Not sure if you're still on here, but thank you for the sharpening videos. We all wish you'd make videos again, but I'm sure you have your reasons for being absent. Cheers Michael :)
My daily carry is a manix in s110v but I normally sharpen with dmt fine and hit it with 1 micron strop. Always look forward to your vids, keep up the good work!
Wow, I've watched a lot of your videos, but this is the first time that I noticed that you switch hands, when you sharpen the opposite side of the knife. Now I've got something else to shoot for.... Thank you for doing these videos, they help me tremendously.
I loved this. The way you sharpen is a work of art. I've found holding the stone for me is much more comfortable. I feel I have more control this way than the stone on a counter. May I ask a couple questions? Sometimes, I tend to have wavy bevels. It's depressing. I know that my angle was just off at that certain stroke. Does this really effect anything? Should I care? Also, how much pressure are you using during stropping? Thank you for the detailed videos!
Michael Babin functionally speaking, the change in angle is not going to be a big issue. I higher edge angle will give lower edge retention, so it’s something you should work on, but don’t worry about it too much while you get there. When stropping, I use a pretty good amount of pressure, but I also use strops that are made to take more pressure without giving. With different strops, it would be an issue or I’d have to adjust my technique.
S110V whittling hair in 15 minutes from fully dull.. That’s Michael for you! Thank you for this video, brother. Learned a lot from watching your amazing technique, and I now sharpen with stone in hand switching from left to right which seems to work really well. Great content as always!
When you learning to shapen holding the stone is easier but not as good. They not to get to comfortable doing this cuzz as you get better you'll get better results from a consistent stone not a wobbly one
@@dylanh8927yeah I don't understand how he's getting it so sharp from holding it in his hand like this. You can see it wobble each time he goes back and forth. You'd think that would change the angle and also make it it inconsistent.
Nice video and it is entertaining to observe your technique. Initially it seemed you were moving rather quickly between the grits sharpening that S110V, but given the width of the bevel it makes sense.
sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my account password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Lane Drake I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Awesomeness!! I've never seen anyone sharpen holding the stone in the air the way you do. It's fascinating. Do you have a video explaining why /benefits of doing it this way or even how you came to this method? Id love to learn.
Hi Michael, enjoy your videos for content and insights. I think I’ve watched this one at least 5 times. When stropping what type of pressure do you use? Seems to range from pretty firm to light passes? Thanks
Brian Y the strops I use are made to take pressure without giving, so I can use a good amount of pressure without an issue. If I had to use a different kind of strop that had more give to it, I would adjust how much pressure I was using.
Michael, it’s awesome to see you work and listen to your insight -great video! How much time in between sharpening sessions does an edge this fine on Spyderco heat treated S110V last?
calkig it really depends on the use and what level of edge you want to keep on the knife. With steels in this class, I can go weeks (with intermittent stropping) before I loose the hair whittling edge. If I then used the knife until the working edge was gone, it would take a very long time.
You didn't use any naniwa diamond waterstones ? I thought I saw one , maybe I missed it , volume low . ( wife and kids sleeping ) Still waiting for practical sharpening to come out with vitrified diamond waterstones . I've contacted other companies that make vitrified diamond grinding wheels but they don't seem interested yet .
Great video Michael! I wonder, given your free hand technique, do you end up with a significantly convexed edge? Have you ever examined your edges under high magnification with regard to bevel contour? Thank you!
Joshua Briggs there’s always some degree of convex, even with guided systems, if you look close enough. But for all reasonable arguments, I can produce a V grind or a convex edge through freehand based on which I want.
@@michaelchristy4982 thanks for the response. Just wondered how much your technique of holding the stone in hand affects bevel shape. You've probably got so much repetition that you've developed consistency. Love your ambidextrous fluidity😎
Hey Michael, I have a sharpening question. I can create a burr on each stone I am using and generally go through a DMT extra coarse, coarse, fine, extra fine, and then the Spyderco UF. Let’s say I am all the way to the UF in my progression and have traded the burr side to side; the burr is now on one side of the edge. Do I strop from this point, or should I do some strokes on each side of the edge to make it more even? I don’t know if I am making sense, but I often struggle with having each side of my knife edge to be equally sharp. I appreciate all you contribute to the knife community with your videos and responses to comments. Thank you so much!
thegreatchug as long as each stone (including the UF) is creating a burr on each side, and not flipping it, I would say do some light passes on the side with the burr to weaken it, and then begin stropping. Your first strop should completely remove the burr so that each strop after that helps to define the apex.
Michael Christy I noticed you raise burr/Apex one side then the next and the move to the next stone. I was always taught to alternate passes after burr was formed on both sides to knock the burr down or off and then move to the next stone and repeat that process. It seems you just go straight to the next stone after the burr is formed on the second side without alternating passes. What are your thoughts on this?
J Torres you’re absolutely right, I don’t bother with burr reduction on each stone because I think it’s a waist of time. Not only is it a waist of time, but it increases your margin of error, just because it’s more time spent on the stones. As you move through the stones, each “next stone” will remove the burr formed and start building a new burr. By removing the burr before the next stone, that stone is simply building a new burr. Why take the extra steps when the next stone will do it for you in the first few seconds?
I bought the 2mm Venev 800/1200 double sided stone, really made getting a "finer" edge after diamond plates a lot easier. Didn't need the crutch of using alumina based stones, or needing to use 12 different strops. Thanks.
very impressive, since I look your videos I started to sharpen my knifes free hand by myself. and I got my para 3 in 110 hair whittling (almost, it catches the hair.) I finish on a fällkniven CC4 (should be 0.1 micron) and then strop. but I got no good compound. if I only buy one which should I take. 1 micron or lower. hope to see more videos like that.
i use the same fallkniven to finish too. i just use a basic green compound from the hardware store. it just starts to gives a hair-whittling edge, but i havent invested in diamond emulsions yet (my highest carbide steel is 20cv, so also not the same steel) as always great vid!
Michael Christy, Mike Caraway here. Please share your new behind the bevel thickness size (Ill guess .10mm). The way you initially described BBBs grind I was expecting to hear youd sent it back and he bought you a new 110v Native. I think I actually said "wheeeew" out loud and chuckled after you said you appreciated the grind lol.
I love the Venev bonded diamond water stones! I got a beautiful mirror after going to the Suehiro 10k after the Venev 2 micron stone. The 2 micron stone gives a beautiful polish before the 10k
I didn’t know practical sharpening made a 120 grit vitrified diamond stone. How’s the wear resistance on that stone? I figure since it’s such a low grit it would dish quicker than higher grits.
Hey Michael. I Know this video is older but I’m hoping you still will see the comment and maybe reply or maybe somebody in your audience with more knowledge than I will… I have a manix 2 in s110v. I also have two double sided Venev stones (100%) 100/80-50/40 and 7/5-3/2 are the micron labels. I’m wondering if I go through a full progression on these stones How S1 10 V would handle it as in Will it still have bite, I would like to go as high as I can while maintaining a sharp edge with bite and I really would like to try these stones do you think they are good for this steel type and where would you stop given what I have? I also strop after sharpening with rolled buffalo leather and white compound Maybe I should inch drop at all if I go that high? What are your thoughts thank you for your time
After you progress through all grits it will be pretty polished but still have bite just keep trying new things. Even stop after every grit and strop it check it and then decide what you like. You also don't have to stick to stones in the same line you can mix and match for the most part
Excellent video, Michael. I always enjoy your vids, but this is one of the best for me, probably since I am interested in both the steel you sharpened and the stones you used. I assume you get about the same results on S90v? Hopefully Practical Sharpening will bring the stones to market soon.
@Michael , you already have the best and most modern sharpening stones one could think of. Did you ever lap (or dress) your 306UF stone to a higher grit rating? A glazed 306UF (called 306UUF) has much higher grit rating, cuts slower but leaves a finer polish. It seems to be your most often used stone and i use my 302UF a lot too! I discovered that the DEGUSSIT DD57 FINE ruby stone cuts fast and is even finer (and higher quality, *denser* ) than the 306UF (but not the 306UUF). Glesswein has a small selection, i have purchase access to the full catalog. www.degussit.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/DEGUSSIT-DD57-Fine-Medium.pdf It's industrial grade extreme quality very expensive ruby stone, made in gemani, now owned by Kyocera-Solutions.de, probably the best ruby in the world. Just wanted to share the info, in case you don't want to glaze the 306UF yet want something finer, better.
I’m not sure what the heck you’re talking about but that is an insane skill you have. It’s an art and my OCD would never allow me to even try this. So cool
Jonathan Pinto you should try it. Buy something inexpensive to practice on.
@michaelchristy4982 I've been getting good results just a week after starting this stone in hand sharpening. Bought a few opinels to practice on as per your journey with this. Not sure if you're still on here, but thank you for the sharpening videos. We all wish you'd make videos again, but I'm sure you have your reasons for being absent. Cheers Michael
:)
My daily carry is a manix in s110v but I normally sharpen with dmt fine and hit it with 1 micron strop. Always look forward to your vids, keep up the good work!
More or less the sharpening procedure that I've decided on.
Wow, I've watched a lot of your videos, but this is the first time that I noticed that you switch hands, when you sharpen the opposite side of the knife.
Now I've got something else to shoot for....
Thank you for doing these videos, they help me tremendously.
Jefferson Henn absolutely man. Glad they help.
Ooo that's sharp. Well done
Big Brown Bear thank you, brother.
Really great video Michael. Thanks for sharing.
that is one awesome reground spydie, "BBB" did a beautiful job on that knife... great to watch your progressions as well. thanks for sharing
I loved this. The way you sharpen is a work of art. I've found holding the stone for me is much more comfortable. I feel I have more control this way than the stone on a counter. May I ask a couple questions? Sometimes, I tend to have wavy bevels. It's depressing. I know that my angle was just off at that certain stroke. Does this really effect anything? Should I care? Also, how much pressure are you using during stropping? Thank you for the detailed videos!
Michael Babin functionally speaking, the change in angle is not going to be a big issue. I higher edge angle will give lower edge retention, so it’s something you should work on, but don’t worry about it too much while you get there.
When stropping, I use a pretty good amount of pressure, but I also use strops that are made to take more pressure without giving. With different strops, it would be an issue or I’d have to adjust my technique.
Amazing great vid!!! U made it look so easy
My God man, that just sounds SO aggressive. It's cool to see you move in real time.
S110V whittling hair in 15 minutes from fully dull.. That’s Michael for you! Thank you for this video, brother.
Learned a lot from watching your amazing technique, and I now sharpen with stone in hand switching from left to right which seems to work really well.
Great content as always!
thegreatchug thank you.
When you learning to shapen holding the stone is easier but not as good. They not to get to comfortable doing this cuzz as you get better you'll get better results from a consistent stone not a wobbly one
@@dylanh8927yeah I don't understand how he's getting it so sharp from holding it in his hand like this. You can see it wobble each time he goes back and forth. You'd think that would change the angle and also make it it inconsistent.
Nice video and it is entertaining to observe your technique. Initially it seemed you were moving rather quickly between the grits sharpening that S110V, but given the width of the bevel it makes sense.
Hiker Marapese the bevel size does make it quick.
Verry impressive to see how the edge turns out at the end! Beautiful work Michael!
Greetings from germany,
Carsten
SpyderBRO thank you.
sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Maxwell Kenzo instablaster =)
@Lane Drake I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Lane Drake it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
Awesomeness!! I've never seen anyone sharpen holding the stone in the air the way you do. It's fascinating. Do you have a video explaining why /benefits of doing it this way or even how you came to this method? Id love to learn.
J Torres it’s just stone in hand sharpening. I’m not the first to do it.
J Torres glad you like the video though.
Every video on the channel shows or discusses sharpening. If you’re interested, there’s lots to cover.
Hi Michael, enjoy your videos for content and insights. I think I’ve watched this one at least 5 times. When stropping what type of pressure do you use? Seems to range from pretty firm to light passes? Thanks
Brian Y the strops I use are made to take pressure without giving, so I can use a good amount of pressure without an issue. If I had to use a different kind of strop that had more give to it, I would adjust how much pressure I was using.
Of how things can be, greatly stated MC. One of my favorite vids
Michael, it’s awesome to see you work and listen to your insight -great video! How much time in between sharpening sessions does an edge this fine on Spyderco heat treated S110V last?
calkig it really depends on the use and what level of edge you want to keep on the knife. With steels in this class, I can go weeks (with intermittent stropping) before I loose the hair whittling edge. If I then used the knife until the working edge was gone, it would take a very long time.
Good to see you are putting out again!!!
Thanks for posting Mike, quality as always 🤘
You didn't use any naniwa diamond waterstones ? I thought I saw one , maybe I missed it , volume low . ( wife and kids sleeping ) Still waiting for practical sharpening to come out with vitrified diamond waterstones . I've contacted other companies that make vitrified diamond grinding wheels but they don't seem interested yet .
Sam4yeshua hopefully Practical Sharpening puts them out soon.
You can contact him and he will get around to making you some
Great video Michael!
I wonder, given your free hand technique, do you end up with a significantly convexed edge? Have you ever examined your edges under high magnification with regard to bevel contour?
Thank you!
Joshua Briggs there’s always some degree of convex, even with guided systems, if you look close enough. But for all reasonable arguments, I can produce a V grind or a convex edge through freehand based on which I want.
@@michaelchristy4982 thanks for the response. Just wondered how much your technique of holding the stone in hand affects bevel shape. You've probably got so much repetition that you've developed consistency. Love your ambidextrous fluidity😎
Joshua Briggs check out my video in CTS-XHP Edge finish testing. Skip to 15 minutes in.
@@michaelchristy4982 nice mirror edge on that Chaparral!
Joshua Briggs For what it’s worth, Michael holds an extremely consistent angle...I know of only a handful of people in the same league.
Hey Michael, I have a sharpening question. I can create a burr on each stone I am using and generally go through a DMT extra coarse, coarse, fine, extra fine, and then the Spyderco UF. Let’s say I am all the way to the UF in my progression and have traded the burr side to side; the burr is now on one side of the edge. Do I strop from this point, or should I do some strokes on each side of the edge to make it more even? I don’t know if I am making sense, but I often struggle with having each side of my knife edge to be equally sharp.
I appreciate all you contribute to the knife community with your videos and responses to comments. Thank you so much!
thegreatchug as long as each stone (including the UF) is creating a burr on each side, and not flipping it, I would say do some light passes on the side with the burr to weaken it, and then begin stropping. Your first strop should completely remove the burr so that each strop after that helps to define the apex.
Michael Christy thanks for the reply, brother. I will do that.
Michael Christy
I noticed you raise burr/Apex one side then the next and the move to the next stone. I was always taught to alternate passes after burr was formed on both sides to knock the burr down or off and then move to the next stone and repeat that process. It seems you just go straight to the next stone after the burr is formed on the second side without alternating passes. What are your thoughts on this?
J Torres you’re absolutely right, I don’t bother with burr reduction on each stone because I think it’s a waist of time. Not only is it a waist of time, but it increases your margin of error, just because it’s more time spent on the stones.
As you move through the stones, each “next stone” will remove the burr formed and start building a new burr. By removing the burr before the next stone, that stone is simply building a new burr. Why take the extra steps when the next stone will do it for you in the first few seconds?
I always appreciate receiving the advice of an expert... guru, if you will.
EverydayPatriot very nice of you to say. I just like to learn.
I bought the 2mm Venev 800/1200 double sided stone, really made getting a "finer" edge after diamond plates a lot easier. Didn't need the crutch of using alumina based stones, or needing to use 12 different strops. Thanks.
very impressive, since I look your videos I started to sharpen my knifes free hand by myself. and I got my para 3 in 110 hair whittling (almost, it catches the hair.) I finish on a fällkniven CC4 (should be 0.1 micron) and then strop. but I got no good compound. if I only buy one which should I take. 1 micron or lower. hope to see more videos like that.
Paolo Pinkel 1 micron is probably the most important compound for me.
i use the same fallkniven to finish too. i just use a basic green compound from the hardware store. it just starts to gives a hair-whittling edge, but i havent invested in diamond emulsions yet (my highest carbide steel is 20cv, so also not the same steel) as always great vid!
asleepyinsomnia thanks
Did you or bbb change out the scales on it? The S110V scales are usually blurple and the maxamet is grey. Good vid!
Herb Toker this was a sprint run that came out a while back with carbon fiber scales.
@@michaelchristy4982 Nice! Also how are you liking the vitrified stones?
Herb Toker the vitrified stones are great. Very high quality.
Michael Christy, Mike Caraway here. Please share your new behind the bevel thickness size (Ill guess .10mm).
The way you initially described BBBs grind I was expecting to hear youd sent it back and he bought you a new 110v Native. I think I actually said "wheeeew" out loud and chuckled after you said you appreciated the grind lol.
outstanding video
I love the Venev bonded diamond water stones! I got a beautiful mirror after going to the Suehiro 10k after the Venev 2 micron stone. The 2 micron stone gives a beautiful polish before the 10k
Anthony Waldrep I couldn’t agree more.
I didn’t know practical sharpening made a 120 grit vitrified diamond stone. How’s the wear resistance on that stone? I figure since it’s such a low grit it would dish quicker than higher grits.
Another excellent video I’m getting a Spyderco in s110v I think I’ll make sure I have some course diamond stones before I pick one up.
A true master of his art!! Just incredible to watch! I truly thought hair dwindling sharp was a metaphor…. Not literal!!
I can't find the tactical sharpening stones?🤔
Jean-Baptiste Cardamone do you mean Practical Sharpening’s stones?
@@michaelchristy4982 Yes! I'm french and my english is not perfect yet
Jean-Baptiste Cardamone they’re on Facebook.
An artist...Freehand sharpening...nice
Why did you move down from the 6000 to the 7/5 micron ocb (7/5 micron is near 2000 grit in JIS)
Stones&Strops because the 7/5 micron leaves a finer edge.
Yea cuzz your not doing it right
That's like sharpening all the way to 10,000 then going back to 1000 cuzz you dulled the edge by holding your stone inconsistently
@@dylanh8927 Wacky comments, enjoy not being able to sharpen without a table.
What is ston`s brand did you use ?
Your technique is quite interesting.
Hey Michael. I Know this video is older but I’m hoping you still will see the comment and maybe reply or maybe somebody in your audience with more knowledge than I will… I have a manix 2 in s110v. I also have two double sided Venev stones (100%) 100/80-50/40 and 7/5-3/2 are the micron labels. I’m wondering if I go through a full progression on these stones How S1 10 V would handle it as in Will it still have bite, I would like to go as high as I can while maintaining a sharp edge with bite and I really would like to try these stones do you think they are good for this steel type and where would you stop given what I have? I also strop after sharpening with rolled buffalo leather and white compound Maybe I should inch drop at all if I go that high? What are your thoughts thank you for your time
After you progress through all grits it will be pretty polished but still have bite just keep trying new things. Even stop after every grit and strop it check it and then decide what you like. You also don't have to stick to stones in the same line you can mix and match for the most part
Excellent video, Michael. I always enjoy your vids, but this is one of the best for me, probably since I am interested in both the steel you sharpened and the stones you used. I assume you get about the same results on S90v? Hopefully Practical Sharpening will bring the stones to market soon.
Terry Bodenhorn yes, S90V would be similar.
Great video, thank you. 🤘🏼
🤘🏼🤘🏼
@Michael , you already have the best and most modern sharpening stones one could think of. Did you ever lap (or dress) your 306UF stone to a higher grit rating? A glazed 306UF (called 306UUF) has much higher grit rating, cuts slower but leaves a finer polish. It seems to be your most often used stone and i use my 302UF a lot too! I discovered that the DEGUSSIT DD57 FINE ruby stone cuts fast and is even finer (and higher quality, *denser* ) than the 306UF (but not the 306UUF). Glesswein has a small selection, i have purchase access to the full catalog.
www.degussit.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/DEGUSSIT-DD57-Fine-Medium.pdf
It's industrial grade extreme quality very expensive ruby stone, made in gemani, now owned by Kyocera-Solutions.de, probably the best ruby in the world. Just wanted to share the info, in case you don't want to glaze the 306UF yet want something finer, better.
Hello,are those human hairs?It looks to me thick:)Many thanks
interesting sharpening style ! new to your channel =]
Peter Vu welcome.
Amazing...
Dude you’re unbelievable.
In your next video, you should show a plate. Use a plate next.
Fantastic!
Most excellent my man. I'm 'gumbystiltzkin' on IG. These vids are relaxing. ;)
insane... amazing but still insane.
Sick.
Fuck S110V
Fuck S110V
Fuck S110V
Hahah just doing it for Steve man. Love your stuff you’re the master
first stone makes my teeth hurt!
The dulling part makes me cringe lol
Patrick Koch LoL, it can be hard to do it, but sometimes it’s the best thing for the knife.
@@michaelchristy4982 great videos, makes want do more free hand.
Crichael misty is way better. Atleast he makes sense
Nah.
Haters gonna hate