I've been using liquid hide glue for more than 30 years in historic furniture and wooden artifact restoration. Sure, the joint may not be quite as strong or as permanent, and certainly not waterproof, but that can be a good thing; better that the joint fail than that the wood fail. A joint and be cleaned and re-glued many times, but broken wood can only sometimes be repaired effectively, and even then a very limited number of times. One of the reasons so many older pieces have survived is the fact that they can be effectively repaired. This is much more difficult with more modern adhesives. Most of my original pieces are built with hide glue for this reason. It's important to mention that the liquid hide glue has a shelf life (and an expiration date on the bottle, which is a reasonable estimate), after which it tends not to dry hard. I keep all but a small bottle of it in the freezer to prolong its life. Don't use an older bottle of liquid hide glue before you do a test to make sure it hardens properly.
I have a bottle of Franklin hide glue from 1988 that I got from an old worker. It's been in my garage many years with no heat through the winters and it still works! I have just under a quarter of the bottle left. It holds strong.
I just got some Titebond glue on your recommendation and am enjoying using it mostly. The stuff is Sticky! Not sure yet how it is best cleaned off my messy fingers. I'm not used to waiting for it to harden but this is just early days. Thank you for the introduction when you spoke to our woodworking guild.
I am going to try some of this glue! Always inspiring and I admire your imagination to keep coming up with great videos and sharing your knowledge. Well done. One Handed Maker - Australia
I'm probably using Titebond Hide glue to repair the crack in my guitar neck. Everything I read says it'll hold just as well as standard Titebond, only it's reversible later. Say if I wanted to have my guitar professionally repaired sometime down the road. Or if I screw up, I can undo the joint, clean it up, and try again. Pretty sure I'll be using hide glue. The crack is forced closed under string tension so it won't be actively trying to pull it apart like most cracked guitar necks. I figure since it's being forced closed under tension, hide glue should be plenty.
You guys think it may be a good idea to make guitar nuts stay in place with possibility of removal further in the future? Some nuts come in so strongly glued that you have to destroy them or unavoidably hurt the nut slot a little in the removal process, which is even worse. And I know it's for wood but wondering how well it will stick to a graph tech nut. Don't want the strongest bond out there, just something that leaves it in place and doesn't crack like CA glue does
I see why you would use it for temporary holding, but I still don’t get why bother otherwise. Does it set faster/slower? Why would anyone go through the trouble of disowning pellets and heating the mixture up? Is that for some period accuracy?
It is a much slower set time. In addition, hide glue blends in under most finishes, and the squeezeout can be cleaned up with a toothbrush and hot water. The pellets offer fast initial tack because they're hot - You can create a rub joint and glue pieces together without clamps.
Watch videos of Windsor and stick chairs that use hide glue, they have a super easy cleanup with water/toothbrush with wet or dry glue. On top of this if a part breaks in use over the next few years (or decades, or even hundred of years), or you put something together wrong, the joints can be removed with water and heat. As the video says the glue also sticks to itself so you can fix the part, add more glue, and not worry about it not sticking in the joint. It is the gold standard for furniture making if you want any chance of taking it apart later to fix it, and not just throwing away the whole piece.
I've been using liquid hide glue for more than 30 years in historic furniture and wooden artifact restoration. Sure, the joint may not be quite as strong or as permanent, and certainly not waterproof, but that can be a good thing; better that the joint fail than that the wood fail. A joint and be cleaned and re-glued many times, but broken wood can only sometimes be repaired effectively, and even then a very limited number of times. One of the reasons so many older pieces have survived is the fact that they can be effectively repaired. This is much more difficult with more modern adhesives. Most of my original pieces are built with hide glue for this reason.
It's important to mention that the liquid hide glue has a shelf life (and an expiration date on the bottle, which is a reasonable estimate), after which it tends not to dry hard. I keep all but a small bottle of it in the freezer to prolong its life. Don't use an older bottle of liquid hide glue before you do a test to make sure it hardens properly.
I have a bottle of Franklin hide glue from 1988 that I got from an old worker. It's been in my garage many years with no heat through the winters and it still works! I have just under a quarter of the bottle left. It holds strong.
I just got some Titebond glue on your recommendation and am enjoying using it mostly. The stuff is Sticky! Not sure yet how it is best cleaned off my messy fingers. I'm not used to waiting for it to harden but this is just early days. Thank you for the introduction when you spoke to our woodworking guild.
I am going to try some of this glue!
Always inspiring and I admire your imagination to keep coming up with great videos and sharing your knowledge.
Well done.
One Handed Maker - Australia
I'm probably using Titebond Hide glue to repair the crack in my guitar neck. Everything I read says it'll hold just as well as standard Titebond, only it's reversible later. Say if I wanted to have my guitar professionally repaired sometime down the road. Or if I screw up, I can undo the joint, clean it up, and try again.
Pretty sure I'll be using hide glue. The crack is forced closed under string tension so it won't be actively trying to pull it apart like most cracked guitar necks. I figure since it's being forced closed under tension, hide glue should be plenty.
What a wonderful idea! What is your glue water ratio? Looks like 80:20?
Can i use it to glue sinew for my archery bow or buffalo horn to my bow?
Can I use titebond hide glue to chip glass for gilding?
You guys think it may be a good idea to make guitar nuts stay in place with possibility of removal further in the future? Some nuts come in so strongly glued that you have to destroy them or unavoidably hurt the nut slot a little in the removal process, which is even worse.
And I know it's for wood but wondering how well it will stick to a graph tech nut. Don't want the strongest bond out there, just something that leaves it in place and doesn't crack like CA glue does
I see why you would use it for temporary holding, but I still don’t get why bother otherwise. Does it set faster/slower? Why would anyone go through the trouble of disowning pellets and heating the mixture up? Is that for some period accuracy?
It is a much slower set time. In addition, hide glue blends in under most finishes, and the squeezeout can be cleaned up with a toothbrush and hot water. The pellets offer fast initial tack because they're hot - You can create a rub joint and glue pieces together without clamps.
Watch videos of Windsor and stick chairs that use hide glue, they have a super easy cleanup with water/toothbrush with wet or dry glue. On top of this if a part breaks in use over the next few years (or decades, or even hundred of years), or you put something together wrong, the joints can be removed with water and heat. As the video says the glue also sticks to itself so you can fix the part, add more glue, and not worry about it not sticking in the joint. It is the gold standard for furniture making if you want any chance of taking it apart later to fix it, and not just throwing away the whole piece.
Is there any benefits from using liquid wood glue such as Titebond, vs the granules??
It is ready right out of the bottle. No heating required.
Ive used it a couple times myself, but PVA is still my Nr 1 glue.
What about glass ?
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The bottle is not so good if you want a strong joint, fish glue in bottle is better though, has a long open time, reversable too
Don't you think they're pushing it a little calling it genuine!!